The Type XX, a collection that’s here to stay. In 2023, we see the fourth-generation Type XX being released, seventy years after the unveiling of the first-generation Type XX models.
Breguet kept this new-generation Type XX very tight-lipped over the last three years when its development began. The brand during this time, however, did drop a few sneaky hints that a new generation Type XX was on the cards. For example, the two Type XX which were near replicas of the very first-generation models (read more about first-generation Type XX here), was made explicitly for the well-known “Only Watch” charity auction in 2019 and 2021. These two Type XX models came equipped with the vintage 13-line Valjoux movement, taken from the stock of originals that Breguet had set aside.
Instead of simply creating a re-edition of the early Type XX models for this fourth-generation release, the house preferred to offer a different interpretation. Using the designs of the past to create the future. Two models are being released as part of the fourth-generation Type XX models: the reference 2057 (Type 20) & reference 2067 (Type XX). Reference 2057 (Type 20) is designed with reference to the timepieces (Type 20 ‘ARMÉE DE L’AIR’) commissioned by the French Air Ministry in 1954. The reference 2067 (Type XX) takes the design approach of a more civilian-grade model. Both these new-generation Type XX models still present an unmistakable vintage appearance, with a steel case that almost looks like it was taken straight from the 1950s and 60s.
Type 20 Chronographe Reference 2057
As we mentioned earlier, this timepiece took inspiration from Type 20 ‘ARMÉE DE L’AIR’, the first-generation Type XX where 1100 watches were delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959. Back then, the model’s name appeared as Type 20 in Arabic numerals. This latest version of Type 20 takes the classic style and gives it a very contemporary look.
The Type 20 Chronographe reference 2057 comes in a 42mm steel case fitted with a non-engraved fluted bidirectional bezel. This functional bezel was also used for the military Type XX models in the past. The original pear/jewel-shaped crown is being retained and has three functioning setting positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction, and 3) time setting. The timepiece also comes with two pushers, with the 2 o’clock activating and starting the chronograph and is also used to stop it, while the 4 o’clock pusher acts as the “flyback” function. This flyback function is used to reset the chronograph and the minute sub-dial.
The original Type 20 ‘ARMÉE DE L’AIR’ came with a black dial without Breguet’s signature and featured Arabic numerals and two sub-dials at 3 o’clock (30-minute counter) and 9 o’clock (constant seconds counter). The fourth-generation Type 20 Type 20 Chronographe reference 2057 takes these design cues and gives it a modern touch. The Arabic hour indices have a more prominent design while being generously coated in SuperLumi-Nova.
The Breguet signature in the cursive font is back, placed neatly under the 12 o’clock hour marker. The most significant change from the first generation to the latest, however, is the 3 o’clock sub-dial. Breguet has made this sub-dial substantially larger than its 9 o’clock counterpart, which means it cuts into the 2 and 4 o’clock hour markers. The new addition of the date window means that a portion of the 5 o’clock Arabic numeral is also cut off.
Breguet has used the same chronograph seconds hand design as the Type 20 ‘ARMÉE DE L’AIR’, however, the hour and minute hands have been increased in size. This is most likely done to accommodate the large space of SuperLumi-Nova used, which means that during low-light and night-time visibility, this timepiece will serve no problems with readability. The hands-on subdials have also been designed in a way to accommodate for Superlumi-Nova as well. The positioning of the “Swiss made” is now nicely tucked away under the date window.
Two newly developed movements were made for the new-generation timepieces, providing high levels of accuracy and sturdiness. A total of four years was taken to develop this new movement, with innovation being at the heart of it all. Protected by several patents, Breguet showcases the all-new Calibre 728 movement and Calibre 7281 movement to the world.
For this Type 20 Chronographe reference 2057, the movement used is the Calibre 7281.
Both movements bring about the latest of what Breguet has to offer. Visible through the timepiece’s open case back, the movements feature a column wheel, vertical clutch, and 5Hz frequency along with the innovative zero-resetting activation system.
In regards to these movements, Breguet states that “The balance-spring, the escape-wheel, and the pallet-lever horns are made of silicon. In addition to being resistant to corrosion and wear, silicon is insensitive to the influence of magnetic fields and improves the accuracy of the timepiece. Both models are equipped with a “flyback”. This function is a precious asset for pilots, replacing the three operations previously required with just one. This innovative activation and zero resetting systems have been designed for crisp and accurate use, regardless of the pressure felt on the pushers, it’s all evenly balanced.”
The barrel of the movement comes equipped with a spring that’s made from high-energy-density material, which allows the movement to have a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. All the technicalities aside, the movement also has some beautiful aesthetics to it. From the case back, the detailing on the components such as the sunburst pattern, snailing, bevelling, and circular graining can be seen. The skeletonised oscillating weight has been blackened, which not only gives it a three-dimensional look but also adds direct contrast to the aesthetics.
Type XX Chronographe Reference 2067
The second timepiece in this fourth-generation release comes with a more adventurous look and takes design cues from the civilian Type XX from the 1950s and 60s. The Type XX “Civil” (read more about it here) was made for the various fields and industries outside of aviation, a watch that could meet the demands of engineers and technicians.
The exact first-generation model that was used as a reference for this fourth-generation design was the Breguet Type XX chronograph no. 2988. This particular model was sold in 1957 to CNET (Centre National d’Etudes des Télécommunications). While Breguet’s latest creation does look similar to the past model, there are certainly differences in design.
Breguet has given the Type XX Chronographe Reference 2067 a deeper and richer black dial compared to the first-gen model, which allows for a perfect contrast between the colour and the dials elements. These elements, however, have been faithfully recreated on this reference 2067 model. From the Arabic hour numerals to the shape of the hands-on both the dial and sub-counters, all the details have been re-created to accurate detail. Another of the main noticeable differences is the SuperLumi-Nova used. A generous amount of SuperLumi-Nova is used for the hands and Arabic numerals, along with the triangular marking on the bezel to provide the excellent low-light visibility.
Like the Type 20 reference 2057, the Type XX reference 2067 is presented in a 42mm steel case with a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. The flyback principle is available on this model too as it is carried by a similar movement to the Type 20. The flyback is activated through the 4 o’clock pusher, which resets and restarts the chronograph immediately.
The Type XX Chronographe reference 2067 gets a variation of the 728 movement, as it needs to accommodate the 12-hour sub counter at 6 o’clock. With a bit more components involved, the 728 movement, however, still carries the same high-frequency characteristics as the 7281. Operating at a frequency of 5hz, the movement can also give out a power reserve of approximately 60 hours.
Both the Type 20 Chronographe 2057 and Type XX Chronographe 2067 have quick strap change systems and get a set of two interchangeable straps, 1 in calfskin leather, black as standard for reference 2057 and Havana coloured for reference 2067 or a second black NATO strap.
Four years of preparation have led to the production of two faithful representations of first-generation pilot watches that made history for Breguet. A new generation of Type XX timepieces with brand new calibre movements designed to meet all expectations: military-inspired and one of Breguet’s best pilot watches intended for civilian use. The story of Type XX is going strong, and we certainly hope it doesn’t stop anytime soon! If you didn’t get a chance to already, you can read the history of Breguet Type XX here, split into Part I, Part II, and Part III.
Reference: 2057ST/92/3WU (TYPE 20 CHRONOGRAPHE 2057)
Specification
- Case: 42mm
- Case Material: Steel
- Dial: Black
- Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
- Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
- Movement: 7281 self-winding calibre
- Power reserve: 60 h
- Strap: Set of two interchangeable straps, 1 in black calfskin leather, 1 in black NATO fabric
Availability: 07.06.2023 from boutiques and AD’s.
Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: $26,200
Reference: 2067ST/92/3WU (TYPE XX CHRONOGRAPHE 2067)
Specification
- Case: 42mm
- Case Material: Steel
- Dial: Black
- Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
- Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
- Movement: 728 self-winding calibre
- Power reserve: 60 h
- Strap: Set of two interchangeable straps, 1 in Havana calfskin leather, 1 in black NATO fabric
Availability: 07.06.2023 from boutiques and AD’s.
Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: $26,200
