But is the blue dial overplayed? Is it over-used by watch brands? Blue dial timepieces have been around for decades. One of the first blue dials to appear in production was from IWC in 1967. In its early days, blue dials were reserved for limited edition timepieces for a lot of brands, signifying its specialty. This still is the case with a few brands today (think IWC, TAG Heuer, etc) even though blue dials are very popular in the modern age.

Even with its popularity, we feel that blue dials are essentially a timeless design. No matter how many blue-dial watches you see, every brand has its own take on it, making each watch stand out in its own way. There are also quite a few different shades of blue. From H.Moser & Cie’s incredible Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel (which you can read about here) to TAG Heuer’s TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf Special Edition (read here), there is a variety when it comes to blue dials to suit all kinds of personalities and tastes.

With this in mind, we want to showcase some of the best blue dials to come out of Watches and Wonders 2023. Not just any shade of blue dial however as there would be far too many options. In particular, we want to showcase the navy blue dials.

Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar

This timepiece is a brand first for Panerai. For the first time, they have introduced an annual calendar into their Radomir collection. They have introduced two variants, with this variant being made from Goldtech^TM with a blue sun-brushed dial.

The Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar comes with a beautiful sun-brushed sandwich dial which is overlaid on top of the disc of Super-Luminova, with the deep blue accompanying the Goldtech™. This blue dial is perfectly complemented by the white and rose gold details (hands and hour indices).

If you want to read more on Panarai’s latest blue dial beauty, click here.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Bi-colour

Oris is accustomed to using beautifully blue dials on their timepieces, especially on their Aquis range. For this year’s Watches and Wonders, Oris released a fun summer timepiece, in either a beautiful forest green or deep blue.

What makes this Aquis model stand out from the rest of the blue dials in Oris’s range? It would have to be the combination of the 18-carat gold finish with the blue. The bezel has an outer edge made from 18-carat. The details inside the dial, such as the hour hands and hour indices all have gold finishes, which along with the white SuperLumi-Nova contrasts beautifully against the blue backdrop.

Read more on this blue-dialed Oris Aquis 18k gold version here.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic in Rose Gold

At only 5.3mm thick, the Piaget Altiplano is not only a stunning timepiece but a masterful creation as well. This new Altiplano Ultimate Automatic in Rose Gold is very much similar to last year’s release, now just without the diamonds and bling.

And the dial? A stunning piece of art. The dial is carefully created to be as aesthetically pleasing as possible. A half-skeleton dial is combined with an off-center circular sun-burst main dial in a dark navy blue. This is finished off with rose gold details that complement the dial and case nicely.

Read more about the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic in Rose Gold

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

This list wouldn’t be complete without including a blue-dialed timepiece from TAG Heuer. They have released quite a few great models already this year, but a blue-dialed timepiece that stood out the most for us was the latest TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2023.

The watch speaks for itself. A racing-inspired chronograph, the dial is filled with colourful reminders of TAG Heuer’s racing heritage and racing timepieces. This model has a signature blue sunray-brushed finish, which plays with light beautifully.

Read more about the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph here.

Baume Mercier Riviera Azur 300m

A blue dial with a twist. The Baume Mercier Riviera Azur 300m is no ordinary blue-dialed timepiece. Released as part of Baume Mercier’s 50th-anniversary celebrations for the Riviera collection, this new Azur 300m is a fashion sport-chich timepiece that can take a beating.

This diving watch comes with a smoked blue (or grey sapphire variant) that has a transparent wave decoration. A semi-skeletonised timepiece in which you can actually see the date ring underneath but not much else of the Baumatic manufacture movement. The transparent waves were inspired by the Mediterranean seafloor and the images of the ocean during summer. Perfectly suited for a blue-dialed timepiece.

If you want to learn more about the Azur 300m or see more in-depth pictures click here!

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

One of our favourite blue dials released during this year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 has to be the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date. The shade of blue on this lacquered dial is truly breathtaking and deserves to be seen up close in person.

As the name suggests, this model comes with a moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, which is beautifully decorated, and then a retrograde date indicator along the top half of the dial. The 18k white gold hour markers, and hands, along with the steel case and bracelet only aid this watch further in making it a visual masterpiece.

See more beautiful pictures and information on this timepiece here!

Grand Seiko TENTAGRAPH

This year saw Seiko unveil a completely new watch for the brand. A mechanical chronograph timepiece. The Grand Seiko TENTAGRAPH is introduced into the world of chronograph timepieces with the precision of high-beat movement and long power reserve.

The Blue “Mt. Iwate” pattern takes inspiration from the mountain that’s visible from Studio Shizukuishi. The rich deep blue of the dial is a reference to the night sky above the mountain. The timepiece’s readability is enhanced due to the direction contrast of the large hour indices and hands, which have also been coated in SuperLumi-Nova.

If you want to learn more about Grand Seiko’s first ever mechanical chronograph, click here!

With this display of different blue dials, the question of are blue dialed timepieces overused can be answered and safely put to rest. We think that while yes, blue dials are common, it is certainly not something that should be taken for granted. From even just the above chosen timepieces, it’s evident that no two brands showcase the same dial features. As we mentioned earlier, each brand has their own taken on the colour and finish of blue on the dial. And even if two brand’s shared this same dial colour and finish, what set’s them apart is the functions, design of hour indices and hands and also the material’s chosen for these features on the dial, which ultimately give the final touch to the blue dial.

So instead, we present my favourite twelve picks that came out of this year’s Geneva show, from Rolex’s Daytona to Vacheron Constantin’s Retrograde update.

Ulysse Nardin Freak One

The latest update to one of the most daring timepieces created in the 21st century. This newest creation, the Freak One, comes packed with technology while still remaining durable, easy to use, and designed to be worn as a daily.

The timepiece has been given a black DLC-coated titanium case with a rose gold 5N bezel with a matching dial interior. The three signature characteristics that made the Freak an icon is retained on this timepiece: no hands, no dial, and no crown. Ulysse Nardin is aiming to make the Freak One its flagship timepiece. You can read more about this latest FREAK creation here!

TAG Heuer Carrera Date 36mm

While TAG Heuer updated quite a few of their collections, one that stood out beautifully was the new colourways for the new Carrera Date 36mm.

The vibrant pink dial is just made to stand out. The added snailed finish on the dial makes it a stunning timepiece. TAG Heuer made a bold choice to break away from the traditional colours of black, blue, or white. A choice that we think will pay off for the brand. To see more of this pink dial Carrera Date plus more, click here!

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

No list would be complete without seeing the latest update from Rolex. The Rolex Daytona is as emblematic as it gets in the world of watches. The entire range of Daytona’s got an update for this year’s Watches and Wonders.

While the update to a lot of the models in this collection seemed minor, especially aesthetically, what stood out was the 950 platinum edition. Rolex has, for the first time in a Daytona, given the timepiece an open case back. Only visible on the 950 platinum model, Rolex has given this new Daytona collection the new-generation calibre 4131 movement. Read more about this latest update to the Daytona here!

Hublot Square Bang Unico New Editions

2022 saw the release of a world-first, square-shaped Bang Unico from Hublot. This model has enjoyed a lot of success since its release, so why not bring it back with an impressive update?

This year Watches and Wonders saw Hublot unveil three new editions for their Square Bang Unico. Two models in white and black sapphire and an incredible Square Bang Unico in Sapphire. Hublot is one of the leaders of using sapphire materials in their timepiece, so it only makes sense to bring two impressive designs together. Read all about the new Square Bang Unico here!

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Retrograde

Vacheron Constantin, this year has been all about the retrograde update, with some existing collections getting this feature. One of these collections is the Overseas line.

What is already a stunning timepiece with that gorgeous blue dial, this all-new Overseas model gets the retrograde function. The retrograde display is a historical design for Vacheron Constantin, one that fits beautifully on this timepiece as is also accompanied by a moon phase indicator. Read more about this retrograde update for Vacheron’s Overseas model here!

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition

I’ve always been a fan of Montblanc’s Geosphere timepiece. The fact that you get the northern and southern hemispheres on the dial spinning in sync with the day/24hr time was always interesting to see.

Now, Montblanc has given the 1858 Geosphere a new update. Montblanc introduced a new capsule collection that pays tribute to the world’s 14 highest peaks. These mountains are all above 8000 feet and have barely any oxygen, which is the central theme in this new collection. Read more about this latest 1858 Geosphere creation from Montblanc here!

IWC Schaffhausen’s Ingenieur Automatic 40

IWC has given their Ingenieur collection a newly engineered update, which references design codes from Gerald Genta’s Ingenieur SL (ref. 1832) from the 1970s.

The new collection comes with four models, with three models being made from stainless steel and the fourth given the titanium treatment. It takes an old classic and gives it modern design features while also improving wearability and performance. All the right ingredients to make it hit in the world of watchmaking. Read more about IWC’s newest Ingenieur Automatic 40 collection here!

Cartier Skeleton Collection

While this isn’t a singular watch, the entire Cartier Skeleton collection makes it into this list. For this year’s skeleton models update, Cartier is upgrading four new collections, each with their own iconic shape and design.

The Santos-Dumont, Pasha de Cartier, Santos de Cartier, and a grand complications pocket watch are getting aesthetic and mechanical upgrades. With a flawless balance between the movement and dial, Cartier has mastered the art of making skeleton watches, more so evident through this latest collection of skeleton timepieces. Read more about this collection here!

Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton In Black Ceramic

Following on from 2022’s update for the DEFY Skyline models with the new generation of seminal El Primero high-frequency calibre movements, 2023 sees the watches get a new aesthetic upgrade.

Two models in the DEFY Skyline line get a black ceramic makeover, with one of the models being the Skeleton. Crafted entirely in black ceramic, including the bracelet, the DEFY Skyline Skeleton is one of the standout pieces in Zeniths 2023 releases. To read more about this timepiece, click here.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Bi-colour

This year, Oris has updated the Aquis collection with new colours and materials. With the combination of the coloured rubber straps, the Oris Aquis Date Calibre Bi-colour for is one of the stand-outs in the collection.

This fun summer timepiece is offered in two dial colour variations (deep blue and forest green) and has an 18-carat fold finish on the edges of the bezel and matching gold details on the dial. Oh, and did we mention that it features Oris’s incredible 5-day power reserve Calibre 400 movement? If this piques your interest, click here to read more!

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

This one for all the racing enthusiasts out there. The iconic and ageless design of the original 1963 Heuer Carrera has inspired this latest creation from the Swiss giant. With a fresh new dynamic styling, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph will be released with two dial variants: a black and blue dial.

The dial carries a lot of colour accents, with them being the gradient orange ring, a reference to racecar speedometers. Each variant of this new Carrera Chronograph has its own character; however, what’s clear is that both timepieces carry the Carrera icon into the next generation with ageless styling and high-quality movements. To find out more about this Carrera Chronograph update, click here.

Baume & Mercier Riviera 39mm Collection

Another collection of timepieces that stood out was Baume & Mercier’s 39mm Riviera line. Released as part of the celebrations of Riviera’s 50^th anniversary, this new collection is offered with different material and dial variations.

Available in either stainless steel with a smoked blue dial or smoked grey sapphire dial or titanium bezel with a smoked grey dial, this new Riviera collection features a beautiful wave transfer decoration on the dial. This latest update for the Riviera collection brings it forward to a new era while keeping all the essence of what makes this piece loved by watch aficionados. To read more about this collection, click here!

The new Riviera Azur 300m comes in a 42mm stainless steel case, and as the name suggests has a water resistance of 300m. The two variations being presented are the blue dial with a blue strap (ref. MOA10716) or the black dial with a stainless steel bracelet (ref. MOA10717). The diving times on both models can be calculated from the unidirectional rotating bezel in polished and sun-satin stainless steel. Baume Mercier has given the bezel of this Riviera Azur 300m a unique design. It comes with a blue or black (depending on the model) lacquered treatment which marks the gradation of the first fifteen minutes. The bezel also comes equipped with a blue or black anodized aluminum ring to guarantee easy and precise handling. The outer edges of the bezel have ridges, which will help with grip when trying to operate it wearing gloves during deep ocean dives.

Baume Mercier’s dial design for both variants is either a smoked blue or gray sapphire, with a transparent wave decoration. The reason the brand opted for this design choice was that it was inspired by the Mediterranean seafloor and images of a refreshing dip in the sea at the heart of the summer. The use of the smoked sapphire dials allows the wearer to have a glimpse of the movement underneath. This however is not a new feature for this model. In fact, it has been a characteristic feature on all Riviera models that are equipped with the Baumatic calibers that are manufactured by Baume Mercier in-house.

The timepiece comes with newly shaped hands, to showcase their love for design. The hands have been partially skeletonised so that it doesn’t intrude on the view of the smoked dial underneath. The other part of the hands is coated with a generous amount of Super-LumiNova for which the blue dial option gets a beige colour, while the black dial gets gray. The hour indices are a mixture of baton-style and large Roman numerals for the 6 and 12 o’clock positions. What I also personally like about this dial is the fact that the minute track can be partially seen underneath, with the window highlighted between 4 and 5 o’clock.

Both versions of this new Riviera Azur 300m come with the manufactured Baumatic movement, which offers tried-and-tested performance. The movement has a daily precision of -4s/ +6s and a magnetic resistance of 1500 Gauss. This allows protection against everyday magnetic fields. The power reserve is also at an impressive 120 hours (5 days). Another impressive feat by Baume Mercier is the comprehensive eight-year warranty offered, showcasing the movement’s extreme reliability.

The timepieces come as standard in either a rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet. The looks and purposes of these timepieces can be quickly changed, however, thanks to the strong and reliable “Fast Strap” interchangeable system, which allows the wearer to quickly change straps without needing any tools. Whether the watch is used for swimming, jet-skiing, sailing, diving, snorkeling, or surfing, the new Baume Mercier Riviera Azur 300m is ready for any adventure thrown its way.

References:  MOA10716, MOA10717

Specification:

• Case: 42mm
• Case Material: Stainless Steel
• Dial: Smoked blue or gray sapphire dial with transparent wave decoration
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 300m
• Movement: Automatic Manufactured Baumatic
• Power reserve: 120 hours (5 days)
• Bracelet/Strap: Rubber Strap or stainless steel

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $6,200 (Blue/Rubber) $6,500 (Black/Steel)

Availability: JUNE 2023. Head to baume-et-mercier.com/

The Riviera collection is recognisable thanks to its twelve-sided bezel with four symmetrical screws. Now, for their Watches & Wonders release in 2023, Baume & Mercier is bringing out the Riviera for the first time in a 39mm case size (for both men & women) with three different material variations.

The timepiece was inspired by the French Riviera, this latest collection still keeps intact the casual elegance, the sharp lines, and simplistic yet beautiful dial designs of what made the previous models for the past 50 years so adored and liked by watch fanatics around the world.

Each of the three variations of this latest Riviera 39mm conveys a “perennially fashionable sport-chic allure” as stated by Baume & Mercier. The models come in two dial variations with different materials for the case/bezel construction. Regardless of the model, however, all three of them bring a new light into what is a historic collection.

The first model in this new line is the Riviera M0A10714. This timepiece would have to be my personal favourite from the collection as it comes with a polished and satin-finished stainless steel case and a beautiful smoked blue sapphire dial that also features a transparent wave transfer decoration. This wave transfer decoration is an iconic design on the Riviera timepieces, a reference to the waters of the French Riviera. To finish off this timepiece, it comes with a dial matching blue integrated interchangeable rubber and alligator strap that has tone-on-tone stitching.

The second model in this collection is the Riviera M0A10715, which has the same case and bezel material, however, this time features a smoked grey sapphire dial. The transparent wave transfer decoration is shown as well. This timepiece is offered in a stainless steel integrated bracelet that has three rows of polished and satin-finished links.

The last model in this collection is the reference Riviera M0A10720 and it comes with a sand-blasted titanium bezel that has a central bezel ring made from 5N gold-plated PVD steel. Like the reference M0A10715, this model also comes with a smoked grey sapphire dial with a transparent wave transfer decoration. The strap that is offered for this model is an integrated gray rubber strap with a canvas texture. The colour of the strap matches nicely with the sand-blasted titanium bezel, which also lets the stainless steel case stand out.

All three models come with the Baumatic manufacturing movement. This movement offers a daily precision of -4 /+6 seconds, up to 1500 Gauss of solid resistance against magnetic fields, and a staggering power reserve of five days! This five-day power reserve allows you to wear the watch Monday-Friday, leave it for the weekend and then come back to it again the following week without needing to wind it.

This latest update for the Riviera collection’s 50th anniversary brings it forward to a new era, whilst still retaining the core essence of what makes the Riviera timepiece stand out from the crowd.

References: Riviera M0A10714, M0A10715 & M0A10720.

Specification:

• Case: 39mm
• Case Material: Stainless Steel, with one reference having sand-blasted titanium bezel
• Dial: Smoked blue sapphire/ gray sapphire dial with transparent wave transfer decoration
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 100 m (10ATM)
• Movement: Baumetic movement
• Power reserve: Five days
• Bracelet/Strap: Blue rubber/ alligator strap, stainless steel bracelet, or gray rubber strap with canvas texture

International Recommended Retail Price: TBA

Availability: April 2023.

The Riviera was first developed in 1973 and has changed over the years, adapting to the style of the time. This year, 50 years on from the inception of the Riviera, its style is bold and contemporary yet still remaining true to the classic line. With its steel case and strong shape, the Riviera, in Baume & Mercier’s words, “embodies a desire for liberty, an offbeat elegance, and a taste for pleasure. It expresses the art of living on the French Riviera through both its look and its watchmaking genes.”

The new Riviera GMT Travel Time collection is an iteration of the 2021, fifth-generation Baume & Mercier Riviera, and with this, you do get a sense these are a perfect travel companion. With two distinct styles of GMT, you do get the essence of a European summer in the blue and white colour palette Baume & Mercier have chosen. They scream holidaying on the Mediterranean, sipping cocktails or whatever beverage you prefer to drink overlooking the Prom des Anglais in Nice, or just lazing about on a boat off the coast of Monaco. One can dream!

The first of the two releases is the stunning blue dial and rubber combination Riviera GMT M0A10659. The dial looks the part, with a beautiful blue hue and a three-dimensional sun-satin finished wave motif on the dial, which does embody the spirit of the deep blue of the Mediterranean Sea. Paired nicely with a blue rubber strap on Baume & Mercier’s Fast Strap change system, it makes it easy to quickly go from a sporty, casual to a more elegant piece on the stainless steel. Baume & Mercier also have a range of colour straps that can be purchased for around UAD $200 should you wish to change the look.

The second of the two is the silver-dialled version Riviera GMT M0A10658 on a steel bracelet. The silver sun-satin motif on the dial is more reminiscent of white stucco walls that you would find in Greece or the Costa Blanca in Spain (not quite the Riviera, but hey, who’s complaining?) Again, the steel bracelet is on the Fast Strap System, so you can easily swap it out for another colour variation if you feel the need to.

Both versions share the same design cues, looks and styling of the case, hands, crown and movement. A dodecagonal bezel with twelve sides and four screws, a 42 mm steel case, and a self-winding Swiss Made movement. The red GMT hand contrasts nicely again both the blue and white dials and revolves around the dial face every 24hrs in true GMT fashion. Around the edge of the dial are subtle 24-hour markers at intervals between the 12 indices and the roman numerals at 12 and 6 O’clock, making it easy enough to distinguish between the home and destination time.

Each is 100m/10 bar water resistant, meaning it’s highly swimmable and perfectly acceptable for a sports watch, and the double-coated anti-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal means it will cut down any unwanted glare. The see-through caseback reveals the Swiss Made ETA 2893 movement with a 42hr power reserve and beating at 4Hz / 28,800 VPH, and is finished with several aesthetic features like Cotes de Genève on the rotor and spiral graining on the baseplate and several other pieces.

Baume & Mercier have delivered two solid GMT Travel Timepieces in two good-looking colour variants that do evoke the feel of the Riviera and, at under AUD 5,000, would seem to represent value in a highly competitive sub $5k Swiss Watch market.

Reference: M0A10659 (Blue dial/rubber strap) & M0A10658 (Silver dial/steel bracelet)

Specification

• Case: 42mm, 10.96mm thick
• Case: Polished and brushed finished stainless steel
• Dial: Sun satin-finished lacquered blue and silver dial with transparent wave decor
• Hands/Indices: Riveted and faceted applied Roman numerals and indices with Rhodium-plated hands
• Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
• Water resistance: 100m (10BAR)
• Movement: Swiss Made Automatic ETA 2893
• Power reserve: 42 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Integrated and satin-finished blue rubber strap with triple folding buckle/integrated 3-link brushed and polished steel bracelet with triple folding stainless steel clasp

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD 4,700 (Blue dial/rubber) AUD 4,900 (Silver/steel bracelet)

Availability: Both variants are available now through Authorised Dealers and Retailers and at www.baume-et-mercier.com

What makes the Hampton collection from Baume & Mercier classic and elegant is the strap that it is fixated with. The Milano mesh beautifully amplifies the luxury and curves of the watch, making it a must-have on any Baume & Mercier Hampton timepiece. The creation of this long strand of steel which has been skillfully weaved dates back to the 17th century and began as an expert Italian technique. 

This latest Hampton collection once again revisits the Milano mesh strap on polished and satin-finished steel that not only heightens the aesthetics of the watch but also brings superior comfort to the wrist. Most of the Hampton Medium models come in the Milano mesh strap, while the “glamourous spirit” Hampton Large model has a more traditional appearance with a leather strap. 

Hampton Medium – M0A10671

This is the quartz version of the vintage-inspired Hampton Medium model. The quartz version comes with a blue satin dial which has a beautiful sun-burst effect. The white minute track along the edge of the dial reflects the rectangular shape of the case. To provide a crisp and clear contrasting effect for the dial to be easily readable, the hands are “glave” and hour indices are rhodium-plated with riveted Arabic numerals for “6” and “12” o’clock. 

Hampton Medium – M0A10672

This medium-sized Hampton comes with a self-winding movement that has a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. The opaline and silver-grained dial feature riveted black ruthenium Arabic numerals and indexes along with the black ruthenium “glaive” hands. Baume & Mercier opted to go for this style so that the watch would have a very vintage character. As this is the automatic version, the watch comes with an open case back which reveals the refined watchmaking decorations such as the circular-grained bridges, sand-blasted, and snailed baseplate, and the “Côtes de Genève”. 

Hampton Large – M0A10666

The Hampton Large model features a larger self-winding movement to accommodate for the extra features such as the date aperture at 12 o’clock and the second time zone along with the day-night indicator at 6 o’clock. The watch comes in a polished steel case which contrasts well against the dial and strap. The watch comes with an opaline and grained slate dial that adds texture. The readability of the dial is enhanced through the use of a white minute track, riveted rhodium-plated Arabic numerals and indices, and the “glaive” hands which is a signature design in this collection. 

The movement of the watch provides a decent power reserve of approximately 42-hours. The movement can also be seen from the open case back, where the watch aficionados will be treated to a delight of different finishes including circular-grained bridges, sand-blasted, and snailed baseplate, and an oscillating weight that carries “Côtes de Genève” decorations. 

Hampton Medium – M0A10670

The second Hampton Medium-sized model features a quartz movement that has extended battery life. Featuring the same polished steel case as the other Medium Hampton models, the reference M0A10670 comes with a brown calfskin leather strap, which adds a touch of colour to the model. The dial is a mix of white and beige-like finish, which matches the case nicely. The hands are “glaive” design while the Arabic numerals and indices are rhodium-plated. The addition of the brown leather strap on the white dial certainly gives this model a much more elegant and luxury appeal and adds variation to this latest Hampton collection. 

2020 has been a difficult year for everyone, but the watch industry has shown that even in times of tighter belts, impressive timepieces can still be had. Here are our top 5 under 6k for 2020 so far, in no particular order of course.

The Sinn U50 range

For years the Sinn U1 has been a huge hit amongst enthusiasts despite its larger case size of 44mm. So when Sinn announced the release of the Sinn U50 range, essentially a scaled down version of the aforementioned U1, fans of the German manufacturer rejoiced. The Sinn U50 offers a whopping 500m water resistance in a more mainstream appealing 41mm case. Sinn again impresses with the use of the brands signature tegemented steel, offering a greater level of scratch resistance, ensuring that this is a watch built to take a beating.

The Sinn U50 range starts at $4,320.00 AUD for the standard model, $4,570.00 AUD for the beefed up U50 SDR.

The Baume Et Mercier Hampton

Baume Et Mercier breathed new life into its Hampton range this year, focusing on classic art deco inspired designs for its rectangular cased line. In keeping with its classical design brief, the new Hampton automatic reference 10522, shows just how sweet, simple can be. With its opaline and grained silver dial, flanked by black ruthenium numerals and hour markers, the Hampton automatic hits a sweet spot between Cartier tank and JLC Reverso.

Available for $3,700.00 AUD, the Baume Et Mercier is fit for all of our Hamptons lifestyle dreams.

The Longines Hydroconquest (Green)

Longines used 2020 to jump aboard the green diver trend, somewhat late as it may be, by introducing the Hydroconquest green.  Available in two case sizes, 41 and 43mm and either on a rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet, everything from the previous Hydroconquest model is still present. 300m water resistance, applied indices with generous lume and a 65-hour power reserve. Only now its green.  Whilst a change of colour doesn’t make a whole new watch, in this case the departure from traditional black and blue dive watches in favour of this military-esque olive green, does make the watch undeniably more desirable.

The new Longines Hydroconquest green (Reference L3-781-4-06-6) is available for purchase for $2,325.00 AUD.

The Seiko Prospex black SPB125J1

Perhaps the unofficial kings of the budget friendly dive watch category, Seiko launched the Prospex black limited edition collection in 2020. The model here features a distinctive hard outer black coating to the stainless steel case, accented with bold orange hands and indices, this watch not only looks the part, its 200m water resistance and screw down crown mean it plays it too.  Make no mistake, this is no petite desk diver, at 45mm wide and with a height of 13mm the Prospex black is a substantial watch on wrist.

Priced at $1400.00 AUD and limited to 7,000 pieces worldwide, the Prospex black is one special sumo. 

The Breitling Navitimer 35

Breitling led the way this year in hosting their 2020 novelties online after the demise of Baselworld. The brand has found new life under the hand of CEO Georges Kern, reissuing heritage pieces, slimming down core line offerings, and here introducing a 35mm Navitimer to the collection. Whilst the brand markets the Navitimer 35 towards women, there’s no denying that this range sits beautifully on any wrist. Focusing on the three time only, non-diamond adorned variants, the Navitimer 35 is available in Silver, Blue or our personal pick of the bunch, Copper dials. 

All three variants of the Navitimer 35 are priced at $5,620.00 AUD

Harkening back to the 1920’s art deco movement, the new Hampton line-up from Baume et Mercier showcases the brands contemporary take on a classic rectangular wristwatch design. The line features a number of pieces targeted towards both men and women, however at this stage only a quartz offering is available in the women’s models.

The line-ups timepieces feature an opaline and grained silver dial flanked with riveted black ruthenium hour markers and Arabic numerals at 12 and 6. The texture used with the grained silver outer portion of the dial assists nicely in adding depth and visual intrigue to what is overall a quite minimalist and refined design.

Entry into the mechanical side of the range begins with the reference M0A10522 centre seconds, time only variant.

The case design for the Hampton range is reminiscent of the modern Cartier Tank Solo, although Baume et Mercier have opted for thicker case flanks which curve slightly downwards to form the lugs. It is a design that reminds of both Cartier tank and Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso, not surprising given all three brands are a part of the Richemont group. 

The reference 10522 measures a reasonable and wearable 43 x 27.5mm and has a case thickness of 10mm which houses a modified ETA calibre 2671. The movement has been decorated somewhat with circular graining to the bridges and a sandblasted main plate. Baume et Mercier also fit a custom rotor decorated with Côtes de Genève. The brand specify a power reserve of 38 hours for the watch beating away at 4hz.

Moving up into complications, the Hampton range offers a date and small seconds variant with reference 10528. This time powered by modified ETA calibre 2895 and offering a power reserve of 42 hours, Baume et Mercier adorn the dial of the 10528 with a small seconds indicator above 6 o’clock and a date window cut into the bottom of that small seconds indicator.

The cut out and cutting off of the small seconds is an interesting design choice as it can be a turn off for some out there. In this case, the watches refined design is slightly interrupted by the intrusion into the seconds indicator by a deep rectangular cutaway. Reference 10528 offers a slightly larger case to the time only model, measuring 48 x 31mm but a slimmer 9.35mm thickness.

Finally, Baume et Mercier showcases the peak of the Hampton range with reference 10523. Featuring centre seconds, time, day and night indicator at 6 o’clock, Grande date at 12 and to cap it off, dual time zone function. 

Reference 10523 packs a lot into a 48 x 31mm case and manages to do so while remaining only 10.8mm thick. There is a lot of complication on offer for such a small form factor, and to do so Baume et Mercier have used the Soprod calibre TT651, decorating the movement and applying a similarly Côtes de Genève adorned rotor weight. Easily the pick of the bunch, the reference 10523 is a huge step in the right direction for a brand that may not have been on many radars for some time.

All watches come with a quick release alligator straps, with triple folding security pusher clasps. 

Australian Pricing:

Automatic reference 10522 – $3,700.00

Automatic Small Seconds/Date reference 10528 – $3,900.00

Automatic Big Date/Dual Time reference 10523 – $6,350.00

Availability : 3rd quarter of 2020