Bell & Ross are known for their aviation instrument design influence, creating pieces that look like they’ve pulled them straight out of a cockpit. However, with their latest release, the BR 05 Chrono Green Steel, the looks are much more contemporary and urban than vintage aviation in line with their BR 05 Urban line.

The BR 05 Chono Green Steel comes in the now iconic Bell & Ross ‘Round Square’ case, measuring 42mm and 14.25mm thick. Bell & Ross have given the new BR 05 satin-brushed surfaces which are perfectly flat, while accentuating the bevels which are high polished – giving the watch an element of sophistication for a sports watch.

The dial design and layout is typical Bell & Ross. The two “Squircle” sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock stand out with the silver outer ring or rounded square if you will, contrasting the deep green sunray dial. The 3 o’clock counter tracks the chronograph minutes whilst the 9 o’clock counter is the small seconds hand. And whilst colour matching, the inner segment of the sub-dials are circular grained and sunray finished as well, giving the dial more texture and depth.

The BR 05 has a colour matched date window between 4 and 5 o’clock, which on some models can look not quite right, or it makes the dial more busy and cluttered than it should. However in this instance, the small circular window combined with the colour matched date disk somehow blends in and is less intrusive than others on the market today. The applied indices and hands are all filled with Super-LumiNova®, so you’re covered for low light or night time legibility.

The new Chrono Green Steel has been designed to fit both an integrated steel bracelet, or alternatively, can be bought on an integrated style green rubber strap for about AUD $800 less than on the steel. When you compare the two variations, the green rubber strap does stand out and makes the green dial of the new BR 05 pop. The steel bracelet does however give it an overall pure steel sports look, and Bell & Ross have done a good job of giving it character and the ability to play with the light due to the large satin brushed links and high polish inner links.

“This design is a nod to a type of watch that first appeared in the 1970s. Transposed into the Bell & Ross identity, we were able to achieve a result that is at once clear, modern and graphic,”

Bruno Belamich, Creative Director of Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross have equipped the new Chrono Green Steel with the BR-CAL.326 movement, the chronograph movement at the heart of the BR 05 Chronograph range. With only 40 hours of power reserve, you could be forgiven if you feel this is lacking with many brands now giving you at least 65-70 hours. The BR 05 is also 100m water resistant with a screw-down crown, so it’s fine for those summer days spent in the pool or at the beach. All this is on display via the see through case back.

Final Thoughts

Overall, the BR 05 Chrono Green Steel is a good looking watch. The deep green dial with the contrasting silver hands, indices and sub-dial tracks all come together nicely, and the case design, whilst typical Bell & Ross has depth due to the combination of the brushed surfaces and polished finish on the bevelling and inner links of the steel bracelet.

Whilst you have a choice of purchasing with either the steel bracelet or green rubber, Bell & Ross should have included the rubber as part of the set. On the rubber the BR 05 is AUD $9,100, and on steel $9,900, however, the bracelet alone is $1,500, so if you’re wanting both, then get the steel and add the rubber and clasp combo for $640 more to save about $60. It seems more brands are now pricing their pieces this way so there’s not much saving on buying on steel then adding the rubber later.

The 40 hour power reserve is also a little lacking, given the standard these days is 48-70 hours, and at the near $10k price point, should be on the upper end of this scale. However, if it’s a daily wearer, then this won’t matter all that much. The Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono Green Steel will turn heads, especially on the rubber, and will suit those wanting something a little different!

Reference: BR05C-GN-ST/SST (Steel) & BR05C-GN-ST/SRB (Rubber)

Specification:

• Size: 42mm x 42mm
• Case: Satin-finished and polished stainless steel with screw-down crown and crown guard
• Dial: Green sunray with applique indices filled with Super-LumiNova®. Satin-finished applique numerals and metal skeletonised Super-LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands.
• Movement: Calibre BR-CAL.326. Automatic mechanical.
• Power reserve: 40hrs
• Water resistance: 10 bar (100 meters)
• Crystal: Sapphire with Anti-reflective coating
• Case back: Steel with sapphire crystal
• Strap/bracelet: Integrated steel bracelet or green rubber strap with steel push button folding clasp.

Availability: Available now from all authorised dealers, Bell & Ross Boutiques or online from bellross.com

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: AUD $9,100 on rubber / $9,900 on steel

Being in the watch world is a funny thing. We covert this little machine that runs on our wrist and tells the time, quite often spending up to tens of thousands of dollars on any given piece. People can be precious about their opinions and at times, the watch world can be snobby with people buying pieces purely to show off or as a status symbol. So it’s nice that every two years, some of the greatest brands in the world get together to show off their unique pieces at Christie’s auctions for the purpose of charity.

Whilst it’s not lost on us that many brands participate to show off their haute horology and technical skills to pave the way for future commercial pieces, the fact still remains that the proceeds of each lot go to a worthy cause: Supporting Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy – a disease affecting 1 in 3500 boys that progressively weakens all their muscles, including the heart, the loss of the ability to walk and global autonomy as they get older. This year, Only Watch is back for 2023 and with 62 Lots, we should see it raise a significant amount for the charity. 2021’s Only Watch raised CHF 30,000,000 (Just over AUD $50,000,000), so here’s hoping the watch world and collectors can eclipse that figure this year.

The Watch Advice team has looked over each and every Lot offered at this year’s Only Watch to come up with the ten most unique pieces from the brands. Our criteria were simple; pick the pieces that we felt were either totally unique or something out of the box for that brand. Some brands do small things like change a dial colour or use a different case material for a standard production watch, so we have overlooked these and gone for those pieces where the brands have pushed themselves. We’ve started at the start, by Lot Number, so without further ado, here are our first 5 top 10 watches…

LOT 7 – BALTIC EXPERIMENTS – PREMIER QUANTIÈME PERPÉTUEL

Why We Love It

Baltic is known for its value proposition and makes good-looking, reliable, vintage-inspired watches with most of its pieces coming in under about AUD $2,000. So when we saw that Baltic has done a Perpetual Calendar and in purple no less, it stood out from the crowd!

At 37mm and only 9.8mm thick (add an extra 1mm or so for the domed crystal) it’s a good sized watch and under Baltic’s new fine watchmaking studio, Baltic Experiments, has an in house perpetual module on the Vaucher VMF 5401 Micro-rotor extra-slim movement that took 2 years to research and develop. Complete with 50hrs power reserve, moon phase accurate to 122 years and 30m water resistance, it’s a watch that we think is worthy of Only Watch and showcases Baltic doing some very cool things with their brand.

Full details: Only Watch – Baltic

LOT 9 – BELL & ROSS BR03 CYBER RAINBOW

Why We Love It

Bell & Ross are not known for their out there watches. Being a brand whose heritage is rooted in aviation, designing watches for purpose and legibility, their Only Watch entry this year took us by surprise. They have completely reinvented their BR03 series and given their Cyber Rainbow a fully skeletonised 3D dial and oscillating weight.

Bell & Ross have meticulously applied varnished pieces to the DLC titanium case, and to give the piece continuity, soft colour material to the rubber strap as well. This look is also on the rotor and they’ve then filled the pockets of the skeletonised dial with the same coloured varnish. The overall look is something you might see coming from Hublot, so it’s definitely worthy of Only Watch 2023.

Full Details: Only Watch – Bell & Ross

LOT 15 – BULGARI OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON MARBLE

Why We Love It

Bulgari is known for doing some great watches and pushing the boundaries, especially with the Octo Finissimo range creating some of the world’s thinnest watches. But this one is made of Marble… A marble watch less than 7mm thick and with a Tourbillon just to top it off! The craftsmanship that has gone into this is incredible, and when you think the marble layer used is between 0.4mm and 0.6mm thin, you can start to see why we chose this.

They’ve layered Verde di Alpi green marble from the Alps between Italy and Switzerland on top of the DLC treated Titanium case and bracelet and offset this with stunning gold hands and indices. Outside of the crazy green aesthetic Bulgari has given this piece their BVL 268: The World’s thinnest manual movement with flying tourbillon and special ball bearing system. All in all, 800 hours of work, or just over 14 weeks working 8 hours a day/7 days a week went into this piece.

Full Details: Only Watch – Bulgari

LOT 19 – CZAPEK PLACE VENDÔME COMPLICITÉ – COURAGE EVERY SECOND

Why We Love It

The Czapek Place Vendome Complicite – Courage Every Second stood out to us due to the combination of the Only Watch colours blended with the dial complexity of the dual escapements and differential on display on the open worked dial. Whilst not technically majorly different from their current Place Vendome collection, what sets this part is the combination of elements from the Quai de Burges collection with the Place Vendome Collection.

Czapek deliver great works of art normally and this piece is no exception. The star is the dial with the Champlevé enamel ring created in collaboration with Donzé Cadrans and the circular satin-polished brass réhaut with Czapek’s Only Watch “Courage every second” signature framing the Czapek Calibre 8 on show, including the two sapphire glass bridges. Something tells us that it will fetch more the the CHF 80,000 – CHF 100,000 estimate.

Full Details: Only Watch – Czapek

LOT 23 – FREDERIQUE CONSTANT x CHRISTIAAN VAN DER KLAAUW TOURBILLON PLANETARIUM

Why We Love It

Frederique Constant isn’t a name you usually associate with high horology. Sitting in the lower-end luxury segment, Frederique Constant is, in its own words, “high-quality watches at a sensible price”. This is anything but! Frederique Constant has teamed up with Christiaan Van Der Klaauw to produce the world’s most miniature planetarium and added an Adventurine dial with a Tourbillon at 6 o’clock.

All this is housed in a respectable 42mm Platinum case, and the hands and indices are all diamond cut and hand finished to add to the quality. This piece is a combination of firsts for both brands and whilst typically reasonably priced, the estimated CHF 110,000 is anything but. However, for a 14mm thick Tourbillon with planetarium and day/date counter, maybe it is?!

Full Details: Only Watch – Frederique Constant X Christiaan Van Der Klaauw

LOT 29 – HERMES ARCEAU LE TEMPS VOYAGEUR

Why We Love It

Hermes has its roots in leather goods and fashion, but in recent years has started to really make strides in its watchmaking division. Whilst you wouldn’t say Hermes was cutting edge, some designs, like the H08, are more modern than others, but their Arceau collection is on the more subdued side. This is why when we saw their Only Watch entry, the Arceau le Temps Voyager, we were slightly taken back.

There’s a lot to like about this watch. Its use of the Only Watch colours is playful but makes sense to accentuate the cities on the world time. The asymmetry of the dial is reminiscent of A. Lange & Sohne or Glashutte Original, and the small offset time dial plays tribute to the Arceau collection with the italicised numerals. The ‘travelling time’ mechanism was also developed exclusively for Hermes, and the 41mm DLC coated case with the asymmetrical Platinum lugs just add to its uniqueness.

Full Details: Only Watch – Hermes

So there you have it. The first half of our top 10 picks for this year’s Only Watch. Let us know if you agree or disagree and what your picks were in the comments section below. And stay tuned for Part 2 of our Top 10 Picks For Only Watch next week.

Founded in 1953, the Patrouille De France has built their reputation on the skills and excellence of the pilots that are chosen from among the best fighter pilots in the world. A symbol of the ability of the armed forces, the Patrouille De France is also an ambassador of the French Style throughout the world.

The long-standing success of the Patrouille De France is thanks to the meticulous preparation, precision, and execution of the fighter pilots. It’s certainly no coincidence that the Patrouille De France has been renewed for 70 years. These same values and heritage are applied by Bell & Ross as well, as they dedicate a limited edition BR 03 instrument timepiece to celebrate this special anniversary.

Carlos Rosillo, President and co-founder of Bell & Ross states in regard to this partnership that “By becoming a partner of the Patrouille de France, Bell & Ross associates itself with the values of this prestigious unit of the French Air and Space Force and also becomes an ambassador of French military aeronautical excellence. The BR 03-92 PATROUILLE DE FRANCE 70TH ANNIVERSARY seals this date with a unique timepiece, which is the result of a rich and prestigious history between the House of Bell & Ross and military aviation.”

The Patrouille De France is known to many for the skilled pilots that perform the daring maneuvers, however, the minds and hearts of many are also marked by the exceptional aircraft. The likes of the Thunderjet (1953), Aphajet (1981), Ouragan, Mystère IV, and Fouga Magister, these aircraft are being paid homage to by Bell and Ross on the case back of the BR 03-92 Patrouille De France 70th anniversary timepieces.

Bruno Belamich, Creative Director and co-founder of Bell & Ross says that fitting these aircraft into the case back wasn’t easy as he states “For the tribute to be fitting, a few challenges had to be overcome. “The silhouettes of the 5 aircraft that have flown since the creation of the Patrouille de France in 1953 are engraved on the back of the watch. It was somewhat complicated for the artistic department to ensure that the 5 aircraft ‘fit’ on the case back.”

The BR 03-92 Patrouille De France 70th anniversary comes in an ultra-light square-shaped case (42mm x 42mm) made from high-tech ceramic. The case is given a black coating so that it accentuates a perfect contrast against the bright-coloured dial. The case is also rated to a water resistance of 100m.

Limited to 999 timepieces, this special timepiece was given a very luminous shade of blue for the dial colour. This particular shade of blue was chosen because it evokes the colour of the Alpha Jet of the Patrouille De France. The blue dial features contrasting white Arabic numerals along with white hands. A subtle date window is also located between the 4 & 5 o’clock hour markers. At the 3 o’clock position of the dial, the logo of the 70th anniversary of Patrouille De France is shown, while at the 9 o’clock position, the insignia of the team is displayed.

The engine behind this timepiece is Bell & Ross’s automatic mechanical movement caliber BR-CAL 302. Operating at a frequency of 4hz (28, 800 VpH), this movement is able to put out a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. The timepiece is offered in either a blue calfskin leather strap, which matches the dial beautifully, or an ultra-resilient black synthetic canvas fabric.

A timepiece dedicated to pilots, designed with pilots. The Bell & Ross Patrouille De France 70th anniversary timepiece was created with the primary goal being to provide the pilots with the right tools to serve their mission. Incidentally, the design carries quite the flair, with the beautiful blue dial standing out from the crowd, much like the highly skilled pilots of the Patrouille De France.

Reference: BR0392-PAF7-CE/SCA

Specification

• Case: 42mm
• Case Material: Microblasted black ceramic.
• Dial: Blue. Patrouille de France logo at 9 o’clock. 70th-anniversary logo at 3 o’clock. White transfer numerals and indices coated in Super-LumiNova®. Hands coated in Super-LumiNova®.
• Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
• Movement: BR-CAL.302. Automatic mechanical.
• Power reserve: 38 h
• Strap: Blue calfskin and ultra-resilient black synthetic canvas fabric.

Availability: Limited edition to 999 pieces worldwide. Only Available for Pre-Order through Bell & Ross E-Commerce.

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: $6,000

Each year, the watch world waits to see what wonders come out of the industry’s premier trade show. Some years we see brilliance, and others years not so much. I feel that this year was a good year for the watch world, and we saw some really great pieces launched, some cool novelties and some brands just did some nice and timely updates to their core models. And from all reports, it seems that most commentators felt the same. So without further ado, here are my top 12 picks.

Piaget’s Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

Whilst Piaget added two new Perpetual Calendar models to their Polo line, my pick was the Rose gold and green. It just looks great, and builds on their release from earlier in year. At 8.65mm, it’s thin, and a the movement is stunning and complex. which can be seen through there caseback.

The fact that Piaget has also given it the quick change SingleTouch system, to swap out the green alligator or rubber strap just adds to this allowing you change the look, depending on your mood. At AUD $116,000, it’s not cheap, but you get a lot of watch for this!

You can read all about it here.

Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

Panerai went back to their roots this year, and told us their Storia Leggendaria. With this, bringing us the new Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 days) in hand finished eSteel.

Whilst not the most techically impressive, although it is an 8-day manual wind, so this is pretty decent, these are cool looking, and do hark back to their original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Also, each model is hand finished to give it the distressed look, so essentially, all unique!

Check out our write up about it here

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

Jaeger-LeCoultre focused on their Reverso Tribute line this year, and some of their models was absolutely fantastic. One of which was their Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which gives you 2 great watches in one!

Whilst each model looked stunning, my pic was the Pink Gold variant. The way the details contrast on the chronograph face, along with the “floating” look of the dial and bottom register are second to none!

For more on this, click here.

Hermes H08 In Rose Gold & Titanium

The Hermes H08 in Rose Gold and Titanium was a surprise for me. I’m not normally a fan of Hermes watches, but this model, in this combination jut works, and looks both casual, and just a little bit formal – it’s a paradox!

Hermes have used a good mix of Rose gold, titanium and black ceramic, and paired with the black rubber strap and the multi-faceted dial, all works together and is something a little different to the norm.

You can check out our write up on it here

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN “Oceana”

I’m a sucker for a good pilot’s watch, and need to add one back into the collection. And the new IWC Pilot’s Chrono 41mm in Oceana Blue is a hot contender. Although, speaking to the IWC boutique, there’s not a lot of detail on when this will be in, so I guess I’ll have to wait.

IWC have done some great releases in coloured ceramic and this is just the next to come out, and with the denim strap, looks like the perfect casual summer watch. Blending this with IWC’s DNA in pilots watches and you’ve a great piece.

Fly over to our write up on it here

Tudor Black Bay 41 Burgundy Dial

Tudor are a little more “edgy” than their big sister, but sometimes, a nice update is all you need. The Tudor Black Bay 41 with the burgundy dial was just this. Nothing ground-breaking, but a slimmer case, refined details on the dial and a choice now of three different bracelet/strap options with their T-Fit micro adjust.

Tudor have also made the movement just that little bit better – now Master Chronometer certified to 0/+5s per day and keeping the 70 hour power reserve. What more could you ask for?

For more details, check it out here

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm XPS

Chopard’s new Alpine Eagle in Lucent Steel and a stunning Monte Rosa pink dial and small seconds was one of those watches where Chopard took an already good watch and made it better! The addition of the small seconds is a nice touch, and the dial is just a stunning colour.

In this model, you now the calibre L.U.C 96.40-L movement, meaning the watch has slimmed down to just 8mm thick and the movement is beautiful with an 18k micro rotor powering it.

You can find out more about this model here

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

The Odysseus Chronograph was one of the more truly unique releases at this years event, and it was a first for the brand, having never done an automatic chronograph before now.

One of the most interesting aspects of the Odysseus Chronograph is the dial configuration using the outer track and the central seconds and minutes hands to tell the elapsed time, rather than sub dials. Plus the re-set to zero function is pretty cool, and something not seen before.

You can read all about it here

Rolex Yacht-Master Titanium

Rolex aren’t normally known for their innovative releases, but this year, they’ve come out with a first for The Crown – a sports watch in Titanium in the form of the Yacht-Master in 42mm. This is a great move from Rolex, adding another variant to the Yacht-Master line, and giving people a watch that is less dressy than the standard 40mm models, and a completely different look to the precious metal models.

It’s a great stealthy looking sports watch, and due to the titanium, is light and durable and fit for the purpose it was designed for, as we saw when Sir Ben Ainslie wore the prototype a couple of years back – leaving the world waiting for its release!

Check out my thoughts on the Yacht-Master Ti here

Grand Seiko Tentagraph

Grand Seiko have never done a fully mechanical chronograph before, having limited this complication to their spring drive models. But this year, they released a fairly under the radar chronograph that is fully mechanical. However, look at the details and its more impressive than it would initially seem.

A Ten beats per seconds chronograph, accurate to -3/+5s per day, tested over 20 days, housed in an all titanium case and finished to the standards that you expect from Grand Seiko. Its all in the small details, and this is what makes this watch a sleeper!

To check out the full write up, click here

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X

This was probably the craziest watch release this year (I cold be wrong), but you’d expect nothing less from Roger Dubuis. The Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X is designed in the theme of the new limited edition 50th anniversary Lamborghini Countach LPI 800-4. Hence the name.

Lamborghini design cues are all over this watch, from the engine case between the 90° V-Shape Double Flying Tourbillon, to the way the case looks like the wheels and tyres. It’s a serious piece of kit, to go with a serious car. But not for us mere mortals at $1,210,000 and limited to 8 pieces, I won’t be lining up anytime soon!

Check out the full write up and pics here

Bell & Ross Diver White Bronze

This may not have been on many people’s top 12, but I’ve included it for this reason. Bell & Ross have created a driver with a difference, and whilst not vintage in style, it’s got vintage style cues that just work with the overall design aesthetic.

The bronze case, paired with the opaline dial and brown strap give it a unique look, and the fact that it is ISO-6425 complied means it’s a true divers watch. It may not be for everyone, but that in my eyes isn’t a bad thing, as it means you probably won’t see many in the wild, and that’s a talking point in my mind!

Check out our coverage of it here

Well that’s it for another year of Watches and Wonders. It was a great show this year, and there were some brilliant releases, and not so brilliant releases. Whilst I couldn’t cover all of the releases here (it wouldn’t be a top 12 if I could!), you can check out all of the brands and models covered at Watches and Wonder 2023 here.

Bell & Ross introduced its first dive watch back in 1997 when it first released the Hydromax, and went head to head with the best by achieving a world record for perfect watertightness to a depth of 11,100 metres. This was made possible by perfectly filling the case with a patented transparent fluorinated oil, a major innovation at the time.

It wasn’t until 2017 that Bell & Ross gave it’s dive watches the “Bell & Ross” treatment by re-designing the cases into their traditional aviation style square cases, giving them the look people know and love, but with the robustness that needs to come with a dive watch. Then in 2018, Bell & Ross ventured into the world of bronze, via a 42mm x 42mm dive watch, and the new BR 03-92 DIVER WHITE BRONZE is the 2023 iteration of this line.

Whilst there are many bronze dive watches now on the market, each have slightly different characteristics based on the mix of metals used to create the Bronze alloy. The alloy used for the BR 03-92 DIVER WHITE BRONZE is composed of 92% copper and 8% tin. Its tone is visually quite close to the classic fittings of old sail boats and classic yachts, while overlapping with the types of bronze so prized today by contemporary designers and architects. Whilst some bronze alloys can look quite yellow, the BR 03-92 DIVER WHITE BRONZE is quite soft, almost muted and with a slight rose gold lustre that brings out it’s colour.

The DIVER WHITE BRONZE is ISO-6425 complied, so you know Bell & Ross mean business. The white indices are large and filled with Super Luminova, as are the hands, so its easily legible at depths, or just some late night desk diving. To add a nice touch of luxury, the indices and hands are also rose gold plated, separating them from the dial for viewability in the day. The uni-directional bezel is fitted with a brown aluminium insert and that all important lume pip at 12 O’clock. This offsets the dial nicely, and whilst this is call the ‘White Diver’, the dial is actually silver opaline, giving it more of an off-white, almost creamy look which complements the aged aesthetics perfectly.

The BR 03-92 DIVER WHITE BRONZE is 300m / 30bar water resistant, equipped with a telescopic screw down crown with crown guards for safety, steel case back to avoid skin discolouration and inner iron case that assists with the anti-magnetism properties of the watch. Bell & Ross have also made the new WHITE DIVER BRONZE a limited edition piece, with 999 being produced.

Whilst I’m not a big fan of square/rectangular watches, the new BR 03-92 is a good looking watch. Its vintage styled brown hues on the bezel, the rose gold hands and indices plus the brown leather strap, paired with the almost rose tinted bronze and creamy dial just work. Bell & Ross call this “Neo-retro allure” and I have to agree, it does have that retro or vintage look…but then it doesn’t at the same time. In the words from Bell & Ross: “It’s no way nostalgic, this elegant, refined diver’s watch is just as much in its element in modern city life as it is deep under the waves.” Don’t believe them? Head to your nearest Bell & Ross Boutique or Authorised Dealer to check it out for yourself.

Reference: R0392-D-WH-BR/SCA

Specification:

• Size: 42mm x 42mm
• Case: Satin-finished and polished bronze. Unidirectional rotating solid bronze bezel with 60-minute scale and brown anodised aluminium ring. Screw-down crown. Crown guard.
• Movement: Automatic mechanical Calibre BR-CAL.302. .
• Power reserve: 38hrs
• Water resistance: 30 bar (300 meters)
• Crystal: Sapphire with Anti-reflective coating
• Case back: Steel case-back.
• Strap/bracelet: Brown calfskin leather and woven black rubber with satin-finished and polished bronze pin buckle.

Availability: Available now from all authorised dealers, Bell & Ross Boutiques or online from bellross.com

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: TBA

Yes when the BR-05 was first introduced it was met with criticism, with many citing its likeness to certain other non-round steel sports watches with a little bit more history. However, by doing so you’d be firstly ignoring its squared aviation instrument design cue, which are as Bell and Ross as a red nose on Rudolph. 

Secondly, you’d be ignoring the bracelet style taken directly from the Space 1M (a 1994 model that was produced by Sinn, identical to the Sinn 142, featuring a cushion-shaped case with internal rotating bezel, and powered by Lemania 5100), as well as the Type Demineur (a 1996 model, which was ordered for use by the bomb disposal unit of the French Security Services). Whether or not the Space 1M took its bracelet inspiration from another brand is perhaps another story altogether…

The most striking version of the BR-05 from 2019 is possibly the skeletonised version. This was followed up in 2020 with a blue-tinted sapphire crystal dial, a very clever take on the blue dial watch trend. in 2021, we have the BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum, which again utilises the tinted crystal dial, this time in smoked grey, and is again a limited edition of 500 pieces.

The smoked sapphire crystal dial gives the watch a more subdued and sober look, and may even be considered a little dressier. At a glance, you don’t notice the skeletonisation. It’s only when you take a closer look, or a second glance, that this becomes apparent. This treatment also makes the watch more legible, and this is always welcomed.

One of the biggest selling point of the BR-05 is the sizing and wearability compared to its larger, more military/utilitarian siblings. The 40mm case coupled with the thinnish 10.4mm fits most wrists. The bracelet integrates nicely into the case, and wears comfortably on the wrist. Both the case and bracelet features brushed and polished surfaces and the finishing certainly stands up to the most vigorous of scrutineers.

The skeletonised movement (BR-CAL.322) is based on the Sellita SW300, with a personalised rotor, blackened to match the dial. Power reserve of 38 hours.

Reference: BR05A-BL-SK-ST/SST

Bell & Ross BR-05 Skeleton Nightlum Specification:

• Case: 40 mm
• Case Material: Satin-finished and polished steel
• Dial: Skeleton with smoked sapphire plate and black
• Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 100 meters
• Movement: Calibre BR-CAL.322. Automatic mechanical
• Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds
• Strap: Black rubber or satin-finished and polished steel.

Australian Retail Pricing: $9,600.00 (Steel Bracelet) and $8,800 (Rubber strap/folding clasp),

Availability: Available now

For more information head over to Bell&Ross.com

The original BR-05 was easily one of the most controversial watches released in the past 5 years, possibly in the past decade. The squared case, integrated bracelet and dial design drew comparisons to the famed Patek Phillippe Nautilus, and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. So it was without surprise when those comparisons came with a generous amount of criticism and cynicism.  

With the new addition to the BR-05 range, Bell and Ross introduce a bi-register chronograph to the watch, whilst increasing the case diameter to 42mm. The 42mm size on the case brings the new chronograph into line with other integrated bracelet chronographs in the market, but will likely do nothing to avoid similar “copycat” critiques thrown at the original BR-05.

The movement inside the beefed-up case, the calibre BR-CAL.301 is a modified variation on the ETA 2894-2, a workhorse automatic chronograph with a 4 O’clock date function. The movement is sturdy and steady, offering 42 hours of power reserve and a steady 28800 vibrations per hour beat rate for a nice smooth sweep of the seconds’ hand. 

One design element that is immediately noticeable from the BR-05 chrono’s case, is the pushers for the chronograph. Rather than being incorporated into the already substantial crown guards, Bell and Ross have added two new protrusions atop the guards themselves. 

Another pillar of the Bell and Ross ethos, the dial on the BR-05 chronograph ensures optimal legibility thanks to its graphics and its contrasts. Mid-way between round and square, another subtle reference to the 1970s, the shape of its two counters (chronograph minute counter at 9 o’clock and small seconds at 3 o’clock), gives the new BR-05 a neo-retro look. Available in navy blue or jet black, the dials do give each piece an urban, sporty style. 

Water resistant to 100 metres and available on either rubber or satin-finished and polished steel, the new Bell and Ross BR-05 Chronograph is available from $8,800AUD.

In the early to mid 1900’s, race car drivers wore timepieces that would help them time laps and even calculate vehicle speed. Although in the modern world, wrist watches aren’t used as often as they used to be due to the latest accurate timing technology available, the watches still capture what has been a long lasting bond between the automotive and watch industries. With that being said, Watch Advice presents Four driving watches under $5000 Aud.

TAG Heuer Formula 1 – Calibre 16 – $3,950.00

It’s hard to look past TAG Heuer’s range of entry level driving inspired watches. The Formula 1 range from TAG Heuer ticks all the boxes for affordability while drawing inspiration for the aesthetic appeal of the watch from the racetrack. Inspired by extreme performance of Formula 1 teams, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Calibre 16 is one of the few models in the Formula 1 range that has an automatic movement.

The watch comes with a 44mm fine brushed and polished steel black PVD coated case, along with a black dial to suit. The white indexes and hands make readability of the watch easy due to the black and white color contrast. Three counters are also present; 12 hour counter at 6 o’clock, constant seconds counter at 9 o’clock and 30 minute counter at the 12 o’clock position.

The use of red accents throughout the watch including the chronograph pusher and crown does give the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Calibre 16 a more sporting look. This look is further enhanced with the addition of the driving inspired leather strap.

With a power reserve of 42 hours, the TAG Heuer Calibre 16 is a watch worth considering for thedriving enthusiast that wants a luxury watch with an automatic movement, without needing to break the bank.

ORIS Williams Engine, Date -$2,300.00

The Oris Williams Engine, Date is a unique piece in the Oris Motor Sport line up as it comes with a partially skeletonised dial in a 42mm stainless steel case. The Oris Williams range was made alongside the Formula 1 partner Williams. The designs for the timepieces in this collection reflect the motor sporting industry and this is more so evident with the Oris Williams Engine, Date.

The semi open-worked dial shows a glimpse of the heart of the movement, much like the engine in a Formula 1 car. There are arabic numerals in the centre of the dial done in a circular fashion to indicate 5 minute increments. The layout of these numerals make it seem like a speedometer on a motor vehicle.

The Oris Williams Engine, Date also comes with a date window (as the name suggests!) placed on the 6 o’clock position. The movement behind the Oris Williams Engine, Date is the Oris Calibre 733. This Calibre 733 is based of a Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, which Oris have modified and now includes their iconic red rotor. The Calibre 733 movement gives out approximately 38 hours of power reserve and comes with a water resistance of 100m. 

Bell and Ross BR V1-92 BELLYTANKER – $3,700.00

Bell and Ross’s Bellytanker BR v1-92 from the vintage series definitely likes to stand out, thanks to its beautiful orange toned dial. Bell and Ross love to have ties to aviation and the automotive industry and the BR V1-92 Bellytanker is no different. 

The word “Bellytanker” originated from a type of hot rod that was known for salt-flats racing and speed record attempts. These Bellytanker hot rods were designed with only the bare necessities in mind, with all the non essentials in the motor vehicle being stripped off.

The Bell and Ross BR V1-92 Bellytanker with its simplistic dial is no different. Chronograph counters and tachymeter bezels have been stripped off the watch to show only the time and date. The date window is very subtly placed between the 4 and 5 o’clock positions. The 38.5mm casing size may be a little on the small size, however since the dial is uncluttered this doesn’t affect the overall appeal of the watch. Bell and Ross have used the automatic calibre BR-Cal 3.02 for the V1-92 Bellytanker, which has been based of the SW300-1 movement. The BR-Cal 3.02 has a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. 

TAG Heuer Autavia ISOGRAPH -$4,7000.00

Created in 1933, the TAG Heuer Autavia was the first dashboard instrument designed with inspiration from the automobile and aviation industry for the watch brand. The story goes that Jack Heuer decided to create a wrist watch chronograph after he took part in a disappointing rally which resulted from a unclear dial on the watch he was wearing at the time. This is how the original bold, modern and stylish Autavia came to fruition.

The modern day TAG Heuer Isograph has a revolutionary design which includes the new proprietary state-of-the-art oscillator. With a 42mm diameter casing, a bi-directional bezel and a large crown, the TAG Heuer Autavia Isograph can be adjusted even while wearing driving gloves. 

The engine behind the TAG Heuer Autavia Isograph is the Isograph Swiss Made Chronometer. This Swiss Made Chronometer calibre is automatic winding and gives out a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. 

Reinvented for the new generations, the TAG Heuer Autavia Isograph combines ground breaking technology with a simple yet functional design that is fit for any driving enthusiast.  

Tudor Black Bay Bronze with slate grey dial ($5,100.00 AUD)

Any list about dive watches is sure to feature at least one Tudor, and this list is no different. First up we have the latest Black Bay Bronze. If you’re already familiar with Tudor’s bronze diver, you’ll recognise the same 43mm bronze case as seen on previous models, and the same Manufacture Calibre MT5601 – boasting a more-than-ample 70-hour power reserve. What has changed is that the once khaki dial, then blue for Bucherer, then once-off green for Only Watch is now available in slate grey – with matching aluminium bezel. Looking closely at the brand-new dial you’ll notice that it’s been given a smoky treatment, lighter in colour at its centre and slowly darkening towards its edge. Proving that sometimes even the smallest difference can have the largest effect. One thing’s for sure, where there’s smoke there’s fire.

Bremont Argonaut ($4,750.00 AUD)

Bremont are incredibly proud, and rightfully so, of the special-order watches it produces for the men and women of the various branches of the world’s militaries. And this year the British-brand was honoured by an official partnership with the British Ministry of Defence, making it the only luxury watch producer licensed to use the signs, symbols, and Heraldic Badges of all three branches of the British Armed Forces. To celebrate this momentous occasion, Bremont released a trio of watches, creating one for the British Army, one for the Royal Air Force, and one for the Royal Navy. Rated to 300 metres, the Argonaut’s case is made from specially hardened stainless-steel, protecting an automatic chronometer grade movement inside, and measuring 42mm across. Designed with a style that calls upon the super-compressor dive watches of days gone by, the crown at 4 o’clock operates the internal rotating bezel, while a pop of orange makes spotting the minute hand a cinch.

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Black Matte ($6,300.00 AUD)

Despite being better known for its aviation-styled designs, every five years or so Bell & Ross delve deep into the world of dive watches – starting with the Hydromax in 1997, then the Diver 300 Chronograph in 2002, and finally the BR02 in 2007. For a decade however, all things Bell & Ross diver remained silent, at least that was until a couple of years ago, when in 2017, the Swiss-made brand released its first ever square case dive watch. Beginning a collection that has continued to grow with each new year since. The latest model to join the fleet is the BR 03-92 Diver Black Matte. As its name would suggest its case and bezel are all matt black, as is its dial, however, there is something far more special once we get below the surface. The 300-metre rated 42mm square case is constructed from highly scratch-resistant ceramic. Culminating in a lightweight, legible, and incredibly functional dive watch with a case construction that’s hard to top at this price.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300 ($7,100.00 AUD)

Last year Omega completely revamped the Seamaster Diver 300 collection, honouring 25 years since the launch of the legend that would come to be known as THE “Bond watch”, after Pierce Brosnan wore the original blue dialled diver on his wrist in GoldenEye. A clear standout hit for 2018, the renewed models saw every aspect of their designs updated. With cases that were upsized slightly to 42mm, and dials that were constructed from ceramic and laser engraved with the return of iconic wave pattern. The biggest update was seen however when you flipped the watch over. Not only were these the first versions to feature a display case back, but inside was a brand-new METAS certified Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8800. This year the collection continues to grow, and Omega have now paired a fresh white dial with a perfectly contrasting black ceramic bezel. Adding a touch more everyday wearability to a watch that could already do it all.

Sinn 206 ARKTIS II ($5,700.00 AUD)

Fact: Sinn make tough watches. Some of the toughest on the planet, and the Sinn 206 ARKTIS II is about as tough as they come. Re-released to commemorate 20 years since the German brand first introduced the world to the Sinn 203 ARKTIS – the very first diver’s chronograph which guaranteed perfect function in temperatures ranging from -45°C to 80°C – Sinn’s latest recreation pays a perfect tribute. Using the very same Temperature Resistance Technology as well as Sinn’s own Ar-Dehumidifying Technology, which works to keep the watch free of fog and moisture. Aesthetically, the two are nearly identical, with both using the same icy blue sunburst dial, however this new version features a larger 43mm case. With Sinn also introducing its D3-System, and directly integrating the crown and pushers into the case, which not only continues the ARKTIS’s solid 300 metre water resistance but also protects the crown and pushers against knocks and leaks. Packed full of Sinn technologies that even the least adventurous of us can appreciate. If you do happen to ever find yourself in an environment that manages to push this one to its limits, I’m certain you’ll have far bigger problems than knowing the time, regardless it’s still nice to know you would.

Oris Diver’s Sixty-Five Chronograph in steel ($5,700.00 AUD)

It’s safe to say that the Oris Diver’s Sixty-Five collection has been one of the most successful collections for the independent Swiss brand. What started in 2015 as a single recreation of Oris’ first dive watch – from 1965 as you may have guessed – quickly turned itself into an all-inclusive collection, with something for every wrist. Not at all by accident either, with Oris releasing hit after hit, year after year. The latest addition to catch our eye (and our hearts) takes the very best of the collection and combines it into a single watch – the Oris Diver’s Sixty-Five Chronograph in steel with bronze bezel. We now have a regular production two-register chronograph, in a 43mm case that will age nicely with its owner thanks to that bronze bezel, a sufficient 100 metres of water resistance, and an inky black dial that curves under a wonderfully domed sapphire crystal. What’s more to love? The vintage inspired legacy continues at Oris.

When the manufacturing for Bell & Ross watches started, they had to get them made by a third-party manufacturer in Germany by who we know today as SINN. As the first models of Bell & Ross watches were released, they came with the inscription “by SINN” on the dial. SINN’s partnership with Bell & Ross lasted until 2002, when Bell & Ross were able to acquire their own manufacturing plant in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.

After the acquisition of the manufacturing plant is when Bell & Ross wanted to expand their range of watch models and create a timepiece that carried their ideologies while keeping the aesthetics of the watch as simple as possible. To do this, they looked towards the military forces, diving commandos and air-forces to draw inspiration from. 

Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo knew that the military forces and their counterparts used instruments that have easy readability while having toughness to endure the rough situations. This was the inspiration behind the first model the BR – 01 and also the start of their most iconic BR Instrument range, released in 2005. This watch became one of the most recognisable timepieces in the the watch industry and gave the brand the international exposure for them to become well known. 

The design innovation for the dial was found from antique dashboard instruments on military airplanes. The dashboard instruments had a very simple layout; circular dial on a square case. The square case would have four screws on each corner for it to be fitted onto the dashboard. Another standout feature that was utilised by Bell & Ross was the colour contrast on the dashboard instruments. For pilots to be able to have clear and easy readability, the instruments would have colours where the dial (and usually the case) would be black with the numerals and lettering done in a contrasting white, yellow or other bright colours.

These design features were all brought together to create the first BR-01. Very little has changed between the first BR-01 and the BR 03-92 Heritage. The design features and functionality of the watch remains the same while incorporating a different colour palette to give a more modern and vibrant look. The BR 03-92 Heritage comes in a 42mm case that has a matte black ceramic finish. The original BR -01 came in a 45mm case which for everyday wear can be a little on the bulky side. Bell & Ross have modernised the BR 03-92 Heritage by reducing the case size, which makes the watch fit a lot better on the wrist. The BR 03-92 Heritage comes with a black dial with the indexes, numerals, hour and minute hands coated with sand -coloured superluminova. As with the most of the watches in the BR Instrument range, the dial is simple and uses large numerals for the hours markers to ensure easy readability. There is also a date window on the dial, shown between the 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock hour markers.

The case back of the BR 03-92 Heritage has engravings which describe facts such as the use of stainless steel on the case, the watch having a mechanical automatic movement and that its manufactured in Switzerland. The water resistance of 100m is also engraved on the back.  

The movement inside the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Heritage is the calibre BR-CAL.302 which uses a Sellita SW300-1 movement. This ETA movement provides up-to 40 hours of power reserve. Functions of the movement are the operations of the hour, minute and second hands along with the date change. From the very first BR model (BR 01), Bell & Ross have opted to use ETA movements in their watches. With the military field and everyday use in mind, incorporating ETA movements is an ideal choice as the movements can be easily serviceable and provide exceptional reliability.

The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Heritage comes with a gold calfskin leather that has hot stamped finish. Over time with wear and use the leather strap may darken in colour, however this will surely not do justice to the overall look of the timepiece.

How does the Bell & Ross 03-92 Ceramic Heritage wear?

The square shaped case with the circular dial brings something different to what we are normally accustomed to. The four screws on either end of the square do give it a nice touch and does make you feel like you’re carrying a mini flight instrument on your wrist. The large bright coloured numerals give the 03-92 Heritage a nice aesthetic look when matched with the contrasting black dial background. At a thickness of approximately 11mm the watch sits on a 7 inch wrist quite comfortably and not too heavy for everyday wear.

The Bell & Ross 03-92 Heritage comes with a nicely packaged box that includes extra accessories for the watch. The box includes a additional synthetic fabric strap with the tools required to switch the straps over. Changing the straps is not a complex process. The Bell & Ross 03-92 doesn’t use a traditional spring bar connected to lugs. Instead, it uses a pin that goes through one lug and a screw which goes onto the opposite lug to connect onto the pin. Once the screw is fastened it will keep the strap in place. The tools provided by Bell & Ross is used to fasten the screw without making the pin turn at the same time. The tools are similar to that of a hex key and screwdriver. The hex key is used to keep the pin in place while the screwdriver tightens the screw.

With the matching gold calfskin leather strap and black buckle along with the extra nylon strap, this watch can be worn for outdoor and casual use quite easily. All these features come together to make the beautiful Bell & Ross 03-92 Heritage stand out from the crowd.

Bell & Ross 03-92 Ceramic Heritage specification

• Case diameter : 42mm
• Case material : matte black ceramic
• Crystal : antireflective sapphire
• Functions: hours, minutes and seconds. Date.
• Winding crown: steel screw-down winding crown, with the Tudor rose in relief 
• Water resistance : 100 meters/ 330 feet
• Movement : calibre BR-CAL.302. 37 jewels. 28,800 vibrations per hour.
• Power reserve : approximately 40 hours
• Bracelet : gold calfskin with a hot stamped finish and black heavy-duty canvas. 

Australian Retail Pricing : $5850.00

World wide Warranty : 2 years

Availability : Available now

Local Authorised Dealers :

• Brisbane – Hardy Brothers
• Melbourne – Bell & Ross Boutique
• Sydney – Hardy Brothers, Wamada Jewellery and Heinemann Tax and Duty Free
• Perth – Hardy Brothers