The Lunar Calendar for example is specifically a calendar that is based on the cycles of the moon. It’s estimated that the average time between two full moons is 29.5 days, therefore the months on the Lunar Calendar were made to be either 29 or 30 days.

A moon phase complication is one of the world’s oldest watch complications. The complication dates back to Ancient Greek times, where the earliest moon phase complication was found on the Antikythera Mechanism. This mechanism was developed by the Ancient Greeks to predict astronomical events, and it would show moon phases and eclipses.

In the modern world, when a moon phase complication is mentioned, one immediately thinks of wristwatches. The first moon phase complication on a wristwatch was developed by Patek Phillipe in 1925, which was shortly followed by Rolex with their own interpretation of the moon phase with Reference 8171 in 1949. In the 21st century, the moon phase complication can be found on timepieces ranging from entry-level to high-level luxury pieces. Most brands follow the same design of displaying the moon phase on the dial, however, a few brands have dared to step outside the norm and create incredible pieces that show this complication in a new light.

How does the moon phase complication work?

The most common way a moon phase is designed on a timepiece is by having two moons on a disc that rotates, shown through a half-circle aperture on the dial. This aperture would only show the correct phase of the moon depending on its current position on the Lunar cycle.

As mentioned earlier, the Lunar Cycle is approximately 29.5 days per month. To be accurate for a watch-making complication, however, the Lunar Cycle is taken as 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 2.8 seconds. The hour wheel on the gear train plays a vital role in the operation of the moon phase. As the hour wheel makes one full rotation around the dial every 12 hours (on standard 12-hour timepieces), the hour wheel drives the moon wheel at a ratio of 1:2 (24hrs/2).

The standard moon disc will come with a one-tooth gear that is mounted co-axially. Hidden underneath the dial, the moon disc has 59 peripheral teeth, which results in the advancement of the moon disc once per day. The reason there are 59 teeth is because of the Lunar cycle. 59 divided by 2 is 29.5, which means one moon phase will end after 29.5 days. Having two moons on the moon disc means that when the cycle for the first one is finished, the disc automatically will display the Lunar cycle for the second disc, thereby having a continuous rotational moon phase.

A Moon phase can be displayed in many different ways on the dial. The most common is the half-circle aperture on the dial where the moon phase, the starry night sky along with clouds are shown. Below is a list of some of the different variations of moon phases shown on watch dials.

Blancpain Villeret Quatieme Complet Blue Dial

(Image ref: Watche-news.com/villeret-quatieme-complet-blue-dial)

This stunning display of horology combines red gold with a deep sky blue to make one aesthetic-looking watch. Everything about this timepiece was made to be as beautiful as possible, to complement the host of complications sitting underneath.

The Villeret Quatieme Complet Blue Dial comes with a standard moon phase aperture at 6 o’clock, where a graphic display of the moon and two stars are shown. The half aperture is designed to show the clouds covering the night sky and moon. Along the top half of the aperture, Blancpain has also shown the Lunar cycle of 29.5 days.

Breguet Classique Quantieme Perpetual 7327

Another beautiful display of functions on a dial is the updated Breguet Classique Quantieme Perpetual 7327. The successor to reference 5327 from Breguet, this dial is more refined, less cluttered, and also has an updated moon phase indicator.

The previous moon phase design for this Classique Quantieme Perpetual looked very similar to the Blancpain moon phase indicator above. For this latest reference, Breguet has chosen to go with an accurate depiction of the moon and starry night sky, combined with the aperture’s cloud design. Once again the Lunar Calendar cycle days can be found on the top of the aperture.

If you want to read more about the Breguet Classique Quantieme Perpetual 7327 and see more close-up pictures of that beautiful moon phase, click here!

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Moonphase Titanium Hands

This monochromatic timepiece is uplifted by the colourful moon phase display at 6 o’clock. The timepiece is full skeleton, where everything is stripped down to a bare minimum to show the movement and workings underneath.

The moon phase indicator follows suit. Although not fully skeletonised, the timepiece comes with a transparent aperture. This shows how the previously mentioned moon phase disc is operated, with two moons being displayed on the singular disc so that after one Lunar cycle ends the other begins in a continuous motion.

Want to see more of this skeletal masterpiece and a closer look at how the moon phase disc looks? Click here!

Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow

The C1 Moonglow by Christopher Ward gives a unique take on the moon phase indicator. The brand’s in-house moon phase movement tracks the moon’s orbit accurately for 128 years! There are two-three dimensional moons on the dial, coated with a generous amount of Grade X1 GL Super-LumiNova, which gives that incredible “moonglow” you see in the picture.

Rotating like a normal moon disc, now covering the whole dial, the phase of the moon can be read from an aperture at 12 o’clock, while the second moon remains “clouded” under smoked glass.

HERMÈS Arceau L’heure De La Lune

One of the most epic displays of a moon phase indicator we’ve seen is HERMÈS’s Arceau L’heure De La Lune. This is a dreamlike timepiece made for lovers of astronomy.

This very unique timepiece shows what Earth’s satellites see’s. It simultaneously displays the moon phases of both the northern and southern hemispheres. The phases of the moon are indicated by, you guessed it, the rotating sub-dials of the hour and date.

This awe-inspiring display of rocks, moon phases, and rotating subdials can be seen more in-depth in our article here!

Arnold & Son Luna Magna Gold

The Arnold & Son Luna Magna Gold is a stunning display of a moon phase indicator. The timepiece focuses solely on the moon phase indicator, with even the main dial being offset to show more of the moon phase and the surrounding starry night sky.

This is the first-ever 3D moon phase indicator shown on a watch at this scale. Made of marble and aventurine, the moon showcases its different phases with astronomical precision. On the case back of the timepiece, is Arnold & Son’s incredible aesthetic design of the movement. At the center of the case back, the brand has placed a rotating sphere that accurately represents the appearance of the quarters of the moon against a starry backdrop.

When people think of Grail Watches, many people think abut rare and expensive models. Maybe your mind wanders to a Jacob and Co Astronomia Sky, or you fancy a Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe? Two very nice marvels of engineering timepieces, but unless you’re a very wealthy, and seasoned collector (or Jay Z) very out of reach for mere mortals like most of us! However in this article, I’ll look at a range of potential grail watches that are obtainable, and as explained in the previous article, a Grail Watch can change across your collecting journey based on your experience with brands, knowledge of the industry, maturity and budget. And just for fun, many of these won’t be your go-to grails, but some left of centre pieces that will (possibly) make you re-think your choices.

Two very impressive Grail Watches – Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe and the Jacob and Co. Astronomia Sky.

The Novice Collector

When many of us enter the watch world, we have some ideas of what we’d love to own one day. Now I’m making an assumption here that as a novice starting your collecting journey, you’re not flushed with cash and your first watch isn’t a Daytona. Maybe you’ve dipped your toes in the water with a TAG Heuer Aquaracer as a great entry level steel sports watch, or you want something slightly different to fuel your adventurous spirit and decided on a Longines Spirit Zulu Time – two great choices for under AUD $5,000 and a solid start to your collection. But what would a potential grail watch be in this point of your collecting journey? Let’s explore a couple of options:

IWC Pilots Chronograph 41

IWC are know for their Pilot’s watches, and the Pilots Watch Chronograph in Blue is a great Grail watch for those that have a sense of adventurous spirit. Great looking, wears well and is versatile – can be dressed up or down depending on your preference. A little bit of casual luxury at its best.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $11,400

Zenith Chronomaster Sport

Zenith has a great history and the El Primero movement is classic, and at one point in time, Zenith supplied the Chronograph movement to Rolex to use in the Daytona. The Chronomaster Sport when released a couple of years ago was an instant hit! Despite some calling it Fake Daytona, this is a good looking watch and the perfect Grail for those wanting a great blend of classic and modern looks in a sports watch.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $16,600

The Intermediate Collector

So you’ve collecting now for about 5 or so years. You’ve got some decent pieces in the collection, perhaps you’ve been lucky to obtain one of the above Novice Grails, and you’ve now moved your Grail Goal to something a little higher. You want something that people will instantly notice, and recognise, and know you’re serious about watches. So what do you put on your list? Here’s a couple of pieces that you could aim for…

Rolex Yacht-Master 40

Whilst not much more price wise than a Chronomaster Sport, the fact that this is a Rolex puts it into a higher tier, as generally speaking, you’ve had to have bought a few pieces through your chosen dealer to score one of these (Unless you buy grey or 2nd hand, then you’re paying more!) The Yacht-Master is a great Grail choice as it’s not your standard Submariner or GMT Master II or Daytona that everyone lusts after. It’s both sporty and elegant with the polishing on the case and inner links, can be dressed up or down and is just that little bit different!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $17,350

Omega Blue Side Of The Moon

Now here is one for the true watch lovers. The Omega Blue Side Of The Moon (BSOTM) with moonsphase, Ceragold bezel and Adventurine dial with 18k Sedna Gold indices in an all blue ceramic case looks visually stunning, and stands out from the crowd. The Adventurine dial mimics the night sky and each dial is unique, due to the way the glass is made, and the Senda Gold Moon on the moonsphase display is stunning. At 44.5mm it’s on the larger side, but wears very well!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $22,500

The Seasoned Collector

You’ve been in the game now for a while, you’ve got a pretty good knowledge of most things watch related, and you’ve bought, sold and built your collection over many years. In all probability, you’re a little older and financially secure (unless you’re a crypto kid, won the lotto, or have mastered your TikTok influencer game!) and now you’re looking for that “special piece” to round out your collection…for now. Two timepieces that you could explore adding to your wrist, I mean, list:

Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Yes, you read that right. Piaget. I could have gone with a Rose Gold Daytona with diamond baguettes, but that would be too obvious. The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a fantastic statement piece that says “I don’t follow the crowd”. The green dial is stunning, and Piaget pioneered the Ultra Thin movement over 50 years ago, which you can read here. It’s a 42mm case, only 8.65mm thick, and to cram all those complications into a movement that’s only 4mm thick is a work of art and science!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $89,000

Breguet Classique Hora Mundi 5727

Breguet are known for their beautiful watch making, and whilst not a hype watch brand, they are steeped in history, and have some very elegant and classic pieces. The 18k Gold Hora Mundi 5727 combines instant time-zone jump with synchronised date, 24-hour and city indications, perfect for those wanting to travel and do it in style!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $100,000

Money Is No Object

You’ve made it. You don’t worry about money and the world is your oyster. Perhaps you’re an A-List Hollywood celebrity, or a multi-platinum recording artist and your watch collection has it’s own room in your mansion. And for us mortals, these Grail Watches are what dreams are made of, or rather, just in our dreams! However, I won’t be showing any Patek Philippe’s or AP’s here, again those are too obvious. Here are some alternative pieces to drool over!

Blancpain Villeret Carrousel Volant Une Minute

Blancpain may be known for their dive watches, but their complications are special. The Carrousel Volant Une Minute has a one-minute flying carrousel complication that Blancpain has revived and incorporated into a watch for the first time and all enclosed into a 43mm Platinum case and 14mm thick. Oh, and it’s limited edition too just to ensure exclusivity.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $293,200

Roger Dubuis Excalibur DT Black Ceramic

Not for the faint of heart, Roger Dubuis makes some out there watches, but they are engineering marvels, on par with the likes of Richard Mille. The Excalibur DT Black Ceramic is a manual winding, Double Flying Tourbillon, limited to 28 pieces in a 45mm case. Oh, and it’s got a Geneva Seal, so the movement is up there with the best. This is a real stealth baller watch on another level!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $415,000

So fellow watch friends, there are some grail watch choices that you can aspire to, and work towards. They may not be the most obvious, or the most popular choices that many would have on their list, but they are fantastic pieces that should be considered. Happy collecting, and I hope that you find your Holy (Watch) Grail.

The release of this timepiece is quite timely, too, as it celebrates not only the 70th anniversary of Fifty Fathoms but also the 10th anniversary of Gombessa. Blancpain is one of the founding partners of the Gombessa initiative that was created back in 2013.

The first Fifty Fathoms timepiece was born seventy years ago, and over the years has become an icon of modern diving watches. Blancpain’s 1953 Fifty Fathoms timepiece, created by Jean-Jacques Fiechter (then CEO of Blancpain) met all the requirements that he wanted from a diving watch at that time. Now, however, as modern diving has greatly evolved, so do the instruments that accompany the diver. The divers that are now spending several hours underwater require a timepiece that can match this task. This is where Blancpain and Gombessa come in, innovating an instrument named “Tech Gombessa” that can measure the duration of a dive for up to three-hour immersion times.

This latest Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa comes in a 300m water-resistant (30 bar) grade 23 titanium 47mm case, which was only recently introduced into the brand’s collections. This particular grade of titanium was chosen because it is distinguished by exceptional strength and anti-allergenic properties, while also being very light. Even though it’s 47mm in size, the case material makes the watch comfortable to wear with almost a bearly on-the-wrist feel. As standard with all Fifty Fathoms watches, the case comes with a screw-down crown with a surrounding crown guard. This guard has a new-trapeze shape compared to previous models, so that it has visual consistency with the shape of the lugs. The case also features a helium valve located at the 10 0’clock position.

The Tech Gombessa instrument utilizes two key elements from the watch; the bezel and the movement. The uni-directional rotating bezel with black ceramic inlay has a three-hour scale. There is a special hand on the dial that completes one full turn in three hours. This measurement scale is a world-first and is patent pending.

To indicate the hand’s reference to the bezel markings, the hand has the same white luminescent with green emission as the bezel scale. The bezel was also designed to endow a stronger curve and be more tilted towards the dial.

The dial on the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gambossa is also optimised for best readability. To ensure this enhanced readability, the dial comes with a new finish; absolute black. Absolute black is able to capture almost 97% of light, which means that anything that accompanies the dial will stand out almost immediately. This is exactly the case with the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa. The hour indices which are block-shaped appliques and the hour and minute hands have orange luminescent with blue emission. The contrast between this absolute black dial and the orange is crystal clear.

Blancpain has given this latest Fifty Fathoms timepiece the 13P8 self-winding movement. This movement was chosen due to its simplistic nature as it doesn’t even feature a date wheel. Blancpain opted to stay away from a date window on the dial as they thought it would make it too cluttered. The watch does come with an open-case back, which allows the wearer to see not only the movement but also the anthracite-colored oscillating rotor with the stamped Gombessa Expeditions logo.

The Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa comes with a black rubber strap that is screwed to the back of the lugs to ensure it won’t come undone during the pressurised deep dives. The rubber strap comes with an internal titanium reinforcement that guarantees long-term shape, while also featuring an extension so that the watch can be safely worn over a tech-diving suit.

Intended to meet the needs of all extreme divers, starting with the members of the Gombessa Expeditions whose research work involves long-duration deep dives, the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa was born. Now, this timepiece has been adopted as the official timepiece of the Gombessa Expeditions. The creation of the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa is also the start of a new collection of watches for Blancpain, named the Fifty Fathoms Tech collection.

Reference:  5019-12B30-64A

Specification:

• Case: 47 mm and 14.81mm in thickness
• Case Material: Satin-brushed Grade 23 Titanium
• Dial: “Absolute Black”
• Crystal: Anti-reflective Sapphire crystal
• Water resistance: 30 Bar (300m)
• Movement: 13P8
• Power reserve: 5-days (120 hours)
• Bracelet/Strap: Integrated rubber strap with included dive extension

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD 38,900

Availability: Late 2023 release

In October 2020, Blancpain announced its association with Oceana, the largest international organisation dedicated to ocean conservation. Blancpain made a multi-year partnership with Oceana, and one of the first acts of this partnership is an expedition in Mexico that will start on August 9th. Lasting for 15 days, the two entities will launch the Project Alacranes expedition, which will explore the depths of two certain areas that contain some of the greatest marine wealth in the Gulf of Mexico. 

A total of 10 scientists with varying specialties will take part in the exploration where they will conduct environmental DNA analysis and photomosaic modelling. This research will then be used to create 3D maps of the reef which will give an idea of the types of species that inhabit the reef. The scientists will make use of a sonar called “Fish Hunter PRO” which will give information on the schools of fish, which will then make it possible to manage and monitor fish stocks for commercial use and in doing so, create sustainable guidelines for the management of the fishery resources. Where the Project Alacranes exploration will take place, there are thought to be at least 136 species of fish, 34 being coral, and also various dolphin species. 

Renata Terrazas, Executive Director of Oceana in Mexico states that “Our objective is to collect scientific information that allows us to determine the current status of this Marine Protected Area, and to use this information to promote the changes needed to protect and guarantee the future of this important ecosystem.” “Despite being a Protected Area, the Scorpion Reef is not exempt from pollution, illegal fishing, and potentially destructive tourism, threats that must be fought. In the case of Bajos del Norte, the risk is greater because it has no legal protection.”

The exploration team will first travel to the reefs of Bajos Del Norte, which is an area that has very little scientific research conducted. From Bajos Del Norte, the team will return to Purto Progreso where they will restock and approximately 34 hours later will head for the Alacranes Reef. 

Blancpain President and CEO, Marc A. Hayek said that “Blancpain has had an incredibly close relationship with the ocean since the early 1950s when we released the Fifty Fathoms, the first modern diving watch. With the Blancpain Ocean Commitment, our aim is to raise awareness of the importance of the oceans for human life and to contribute to their protection. To do so, we centre our initiatives on three axes: beauty, to show people what the underwater world has to offer and arouse their interest; knowledge, to learn about the areas that need attention; and protection, to ensure efficient ocean conservation. We are proud to be part of Project Alacranes, which meets all three of these criteria, and have faith in Oceana’s strength in exploration, scientific research and advocacy to make a difference towards Mexico’s biodiversity, the local populations, and ultimately the world.”

Blancpain and women had close relationships since 1930 when the manufacturer was the first to create a self-winding ladies’ watch. Three years later, this special relationship was heightened further when Betty Fiechter took over the reins of the company, ultimately becoming the first woman to head a watchmaking company. The years that followed after saw several feminine horological timepieces released that show Blancpain’s love for women. 

The Maison draws inspiration for this latest creation from the brand’s ability to compose soft and sparkling creations, along with movements that showcase the boldness of their nature. The Villeret Women Date limited edition comes in a stunning 33.2mm red gold case, which is enhanced and complimented nicely by the precious touches of a diamond-set chapter ring and bezel. 

The dial is composed of white mother of pearl, which looks as if you are soaring above the clouds when gazed upon. The source of every desire is shown by the second’s hand, which features a crimson-red heart, that also neatly matches the watch’s alligator leather strap. The open-worked hour and minute hands hint at the timepiece’s sharp yet subtle design. The hour indexes are diamond set, with the 3 o’clock position featuring a small date window. 

Blancpain has used its in-house movement, the calibre 1151. This calibre 1151 is derived from the brand’s famous 1150 and now comes with a silicon balance spring and a staggering four-day power reserve! The watch does come with an open case back, which shows the intricately decorated workings of the Calibre 1151 movement. 

With the understated elegance of the new Villeret Women Date limited edition, it shows the true nature of Blancpain’s style, which ultimately ensures that this stunning model joins the ranks of truly ageless timepieces. 

Ever since that time, the Fifty fathoms line has been synonymous with ocean faring and those willing to plunge into the deep. The modern interpretation of the line, the critically acclaimed Bathyscaphe range, is a true high horology alternative to the Rolex Submariner that has long since surpassed the fifty fathoms in mainstream popularity. 

Given the Bathyscaphe’s link to the seas, it has come as quite a shock to see the latest release from Blancpain focusing the Bathyscaphe on desert sands. This 500-piece limited-edition model inspired by a Blancpain diver’s watch from the 1970s is characterised by a gradient-coloured sandy beige dial featuring a sunburst pattern. This nuance evokes the desert, and more specifically Death Valley in the United States, where Ernest H. Brooks II, pioneer of underwater photography and contributor to the Edition Fifty Fathoms project, made a spectacular dive in 1962.

This new desert toned edition of the Bathyscaphe takes aim at those adventurous enthusiasts, looking to indulge in the break from the traditional Bathyscaphe aesthetic. The dial of the Bathyscaphe Day Date Desert Edition adopts this style, which it combines for the first time with a subtle gradation of sandy beige, a hue that is new to the collection. Its shades and sunburst finish endow it with remarkable clarity, while its boldly sized rectangular hour-markers guarantee instant legibility. A chapter ring punctuated with Arabic numerals marks the five-minute intervals while evoking the spirt of the original Bathyscaphe design of the 1970s.

Hands of the new piece are coated with Super-LumiNova and feature the same baton-shaped design as earlier Bathyscaphe models. The dial of the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Day Date Desert Edition is enhanced by a unidirectional rotating bezel with a brown ceramic insert and Liquid metal hour-markers. Although this new model has a vintage look, its mechanism is resolutely modern. Housed in a 43mm satin-brushed steel case and water-resistant to approximately 300 metres.

Blancpain includes the manufacture-made 1315DD movement offering the performance attributes essential to a diver’s watch. It also features a five-day power reserve, which is particularly useful in daily life. Another major asset is its balance fitted with a silicon balance-spring, a guarantee of accuracy and resistance to magnetic fields. The sapphire crystal case back of the watch allows the owner to admire the finishes of this truly high horology movement, including its gold oscillating weight.

This adventurous 500 piece limited edition will carry an RRP of $17,600AUD.