Breguet kept this new-generation Type XX very tight-lipped over the last three years when its development began. The brand during this time, however, did drop a few sneaky hints that a new generation Type XX was on the cards. For example, the two Type XX which were near replicas of the very first-generation models (read more about first-generation Type XX here), was made explicitly for the well-known “Only Watch” charity auction in 2019 and 2021. These two Type XX models came equipped with the vintage 13-line Valjoux movement, taken from the stock of originals that Breguet had set aside.

Instead of simply creating a re-edition of the early Type XX models for this fourth-generation release, the house preferred to offer a different interpretation. Using the designs of the past to create the future. Two models are being released as part of the fourth-generation Type XX models: the reference 2057 (Type 20) & reference 2067 (Type XX). Reference 2057 (Type 20) is designed with reference to the timepieces (Type 20 ‘ARMÉE DE L’AIR’) commissioned by the French Air Ministry in 1954. The reference 2067 (Type XX) takes the design approach of a more civilian-grade model. Both these new-generation Type XX models still present an unmistakable vintage appearance, with a steel case that almost looks like it was taken straight from the 1950s and 60s.

Type 20 Chronographe Reference 2057

As we mentioned earlier, this timepiece took inspiration from Type 20 ‘ARMÉE DE L’AIR’, the first-generation Type XX where 1100 watches were delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959. Back then, the model’s name appeared as Type 20 in Arabic numerals. This latest version of Type 20 takes the classic style and gives it a very contemporary look.

The Type 20 Chronographe reference 2057 comes in a 42mm steel case fitted with a non-engraved fluted bidirectional bezel. This functional bezel was also used for the military Type XX models in the past. The original pear/jewel-shaped crown is being retained and has three functioning setting positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction, and 3) time setting. The timepiece also comes with two pushers, with the 2 o’clock activating and starting the chronograph and is also used to stop it, while the 4 o’clock pusher acts as the “flyback” function. This flyback function is used to reset the chronograph and the minute sub-dial.

The original Type 20 ‘ARMÉE DE L’AIR’ came with a black dial without Breguet’s signature and featured Arabic numerals and two sub-dials at 3 o’clock (30-minute counter) and 9 o’clock (constant seconds counter). The fourth-generation Type 20 Type 20 Chronographe reference 2057 takes these design cues and gives it a modern touch. The Arabic hour indices have a more prominent design while being generously coated in SuperLumi-Nova.

The Breguet signature in the cursive font is back, placed neatly under the 12 o’clock hour marker. The most significant change from the first generation to the latest, however, is the 3 o’clock sub-dial. Breguet has made this sub-dial substantially larger than its 9 o’clock counterpart, which means it cuts into the 2 and 4 o’clock hour markers. The new addition of the date window means that a portion of the 5 o’clock Arabic numeral is also cut off.

Breguet has used the same chronograph seconds hand design as the Type 20 ‘ARMÉE DE L’AIR’, however, the hour and minute hands have been increased in size. This is most likely done to accommodate the large space of SuperLumi-Nova used, which means that during low-light and night-time visibility, this timepiece will serve no problems with readability. The hands-on subdials have also been designed in a way to accommodate for Superlumi-Nova as well. The positioning of the “Swiss made” is now nicely tucked away under the date window.

Two newly developed movements were made for the new-generation timepieces, providing high levels of accuracy and sturdiness. A total of four years was taken to develop this new movement, with innovation being at the heart of it all. Protected by several patents, Breguet showcases the all-new Calibre 728 movement and Calibre 7281 movement to the world.
For this Type 20 Chronographe reference 2057, the movement used is the Calibre 7281.

Both movements bring about the latest of what Breguet has to offer. Visible through the timepiece’s open case back, the movements feature a column wheel, vertical clutch, and 5Hz frequency along with the innovative zero-resetting activation system.

In regards to these movements, Breguet states that “The balance-spring, the escape-wheel, and the pallet-lever horns are made of silicon. In addition to being resistant to corrosion and wear, silicon is insensitive to the influence of magnetic fields and improves the accuracy of the timepiece. Both models are equipped with a “flyback”. This function is a precious asset for pilots, replacing the three operations previously required with just one. This innovative activation and zero resetting systems have been designed for crisp and accurate use, regardless of the pressure felt on the pushers, it’s all evenly balanced.”

The barrel of the movement comes equipped with a spring that’s made from high-energy-density material, which allows the movement to have a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. All the technicalities aside, the movement also has some beautiful aesthetics to it. From the case back, the detailing on the components such as the sunburst pattern, snailing, bevelling, and circular graining can be seen. The skeletonised oscillating weight has been blackened, which not only gives it a three-dimensional look but also adds direct contrast to the aesthetics.

Type XX Chronographe Reference 2067

The second timepiece in this fourth-generation release comes with a more adventurous look and takes design cues from the civilian Type XX from the 1950s and 60s. The Type XX “Civil” (read more about it here) was made for the various fields and industries outside of aviation, a watch that could meet the demands of engineers and technicians.

The exact first-generation model that was used as a reference for this fourth-generation design was the Breguet Type XX chronograph no. 2988. This particular model was sold in 1957 to CNET (Centre National d’Etudes des Télécommunications). While Breguet’s latest creation does look similar to the past model, there are certainly differences in design.

Breguet has given the Type XX Chronographe Reference 2067 a deeper and richer black dial compared to the first-gen model, which allows for a perfect contrast between the colour and the dials elements. These elements, however, have been faithfully recreated on this reference 2067 model. From the Arabic hour numerals to the shape of the hands-on both the dial and sub-counters, all the details have been re-created to accurate detail. Another of the main noticeable differences is the SuperLumi-Nova used. A generous amount of SuperLumi-Nova is used for the hands and Arabic numerals, along with the triangular marking on the bezel to provide the excellent low-light visibility.

Like the Type 20 reference 2057, the Type XX reference 2067 is presented in a 42mm steel case with a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. The flyback principle is available on this model too as it is carried by a similar movement to the Type 20. The flyback is activated through the 4 o’clock pusher, which resets and restarts the chronograph immediately.

The Type XX Chronographe reference 2067 gets a variation of the 728 movement, as it needs to accommodate the 12-hour sub counter at 6 o’clock. With a bit more components involved, the 728 movement, however, still carries the same high-frequency characteristics as the 7281. Operating at a frequency of 5hz, the movement can also give out a power reserve of approximately 60 hours.

Both the Type 20 Chronographe 2057 and Type XX Chronographe 2067 have quick strap change systems and get a set of two interchangeable straps, 1 in calfskin leather, black as standard for reference 2057 and Havana coloured for reference 2067 or a second black NATO strap.

Four years of preparation have led to the production of two faithful representations of first-generation pilot watches that made history for Breguet. A new generation of Type XX timepieces with brand new calibre movements designed to meet all expectations: military-inspired and one of Breguet’s best pilot watches intended for civilian use. The story of Type XX is going strong, and we certainly hope it doesn’t stop anytime soon! If you didn’t get a chance to already, you can read the history of Breguet Type XX here, split into Part I, Part II, and Part III.

Reference: 2057ST/92/3WU (TYPE 20 CHRONOGRAPHE 2057)

Specification

• Case: 42mm
• Case Material: Steel
• Dial: Black
• Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
• Movement: 7281 self-winding calibre
• Power reserve: 60 h
• Strap: Set of two interchangeable straps, 1 in black calfskin leather, 1 in black NATO fabric

Availability: 07.06.2023 from boutiques and AD’s.

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: $26,200

Reference: 2067ST/92/3WU (TYPE XX CHRONOGRAPHE 2067)

Specification

• Case: 42mm
• Case Material: Steel
• Dial: Black
• Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
• Movement: 728 self-winding calibre
• Power reserve: 60 h
• Strap: Set of two interchangeable straps, 1 in Havana calfskin leather, 1 in black NATO fabric

Availability:  07.06.2023 from boutiques and AD’s.

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: $26,200

The period between the second-generation (read more about the second-generation models here) and third-generation models saw many developments for the House of Breguet. The brand acquired the ‘Nouvelle Lemania’ movement manufacture at L’Orient in the Vallée de Joux and expanded its international network into North America and Asia, mainly Japan, Hong Kong, and Singapore. Fine watchmaking was becoming ever more popular with chronograph timepieces taking centre stage. Seeing this growth, it was an opportunity that Breguet was simply not going to miss.

Breguet was not simply going to just create any chronograph timepiece. The brand adopted the ‘retour en vol’ function into the calibre self-winding chronograph 582, and from this developed an in-house product which was the first self-winding chronograph timepiece with a fly-back option. This timepiece had a modern design, evident through the self-winding movement and also the deployant clasp. The final touch to this piece was the case inheriting Breguet’s famous fluted design, which on a steel sports watch was never seen before.

The TYPE XX, Reference 3800

The third-generation Type XX began officially in 1995, with the production of the steel 3800 model. Upon its launch, it was also released with two limited edition models: 75 pieces in platinum with a black dial and 150 in yellow gold with a black dial. The first of the third-generation 3800’s didn’t come with a date display. It was also dubbed the ‘Aéronavale’ to highlight the historic pedigree behind the timepiece.

Type XX Reference 3800

Movement: 13¾-line calibre 582 movement with
self-winding and ‘retour en vol’ (fly-back function)

Case: Polished steel, gold, or platinum case with
fluted caseband, water-resistant with screw-down
caseback, diameter 39mm, thickness 14mm

Caseback: Bearing the inscriptions: BREGUET
TYPE XX automatique, individual Breguet number,
ETANCHE 100m, REF. 3800, AERONAVALE.

Dial: Black 92 dial, with Breguet signature in cursive
script

Quantity produced:
• 3800ST steel on leather (standard)
• 3800ST steel on steel (standard)
• 3800BA yellow gold, black 92 dial, on leather (limited)
• 3800BR rose gold, blue Y2 dial, on leather
• 3800BR rose gold, blue Y2 dial, on rose gold
• 3800PT platinum, black 92 dial, on leather (limited)
• 3807ST steel, blue J2 dial, on steel (limited)
• 3803ST steel, black 92 dial, on leather (limited)

The TYPE XX, Reference 3820

In late 1997, almost three years after the release of the reference 3800, the reference 3820 was released, now with a date window at the 6 o’clock position. The reference 3820 was given the name ‘Transatlantique’, a homage to the exploits of the Breguet aircraft of the 1930s, in particular the very first Paris-New York flight in September 1930. The flight was made by Costes and Bellonte in a special Breguet aircraft named ‘Point d’Interrogation’.

Out of the first batch of 2000 timepieces of the Reference 3820 that was produced, the steel variants came with the addition of a gold disc on top of the winding crown, and had an engraving on the back ‘water resistant 20 ATU’. This engraving was later changed to the classic ‘étanche 100m’.

Type XX Reference 3820

Movement: 13¾-line calibre 582Q movement, with
self-winding and ‘retour en vol’ (fly-back function)

Case: Polished steel, gold or platinum case with
fluted caseband, water-resistant with screw-down
caseback, diameter 39mm, thickness 14mm

Caseback: Bearing inscription: BREGUET TYPE XX,
automatique, individual Breguet number, water-resistant
to 100m, REF. 3820, TRANSATLANTIQUE.

Dial: Black H2 dial, with Breguet signature in cursive
script on steel pieces

Quantity: (few models listed below from large quantity)
• 3820ST steel on leather (standard)
• 3820ST steel on steel (standard)
• 3820TI titanium, carbon fibre K2 dial on titanium
• 3820BA yellow gold, chocolate A2 dial,
on leather
• 3820BA yellow gold, chocolate A2 dial, on yellow gold
• 3820BA yellow gold, black lacquer D2 dial,
on leather
• 3820BA yellow gold, black lacquer D2 dial,
on yellow gold
• 3820BA yellow gold, ivory J2 dial, on leather
• 3820BA yellow gold, ivory J2 dial, on yellow gold
• 3820BA yellow gold, blue-black N2 dial,
on leather
• 3820BA yellow gold, blue-black N2 dial, on yellow gold

The TYPE XX ‘RÉVEIL’, Reference 3860

The next model in the 3800 family was certainly a unique one, as the Type XX welcomes a new watch not as a chronograph, but rather as an alarm watch. The reference 3860 shared a similar design to the Type XX 3800 and 3820, such as the case, rotating bezel, black dial, and luminescent hands.

The reference 3860 model is, however, easily recognisable by the two winding crowns. The timepiece also comes with a large second hand and a date display at 6 o’clock, along with the Breguet signature in the lower portion of the dial. Breguet also offered the timepiece in four different variants: steel on a leather strap, steel on a steel bracelet, yellow gold on a leather strap or yellow gold on a yellow gold bracelet.

Type XX ‘RÉVEIL’ Reference 3820

Movement: 13 ¾-line calibre 579 movement
with self-winding and central second hand

Case: Polished steel or gold case with fluted
caseband, water-resistant with screw-down
caseback, diameter 39 mm, thickness 14 mm

Caseback: Bearing the inscriptions: BREGUET TYPE XX,
automatique, individual Breguet number, ETANCHE
100m, REF. 3860, TRANSATLANTIQUE.

Dial: Black H2 dial, with Breguet signature in cursive
script on steel pieces

Quantity:
• 3860ST steel on leather
• 3860ST steel on steel
• 3860BA yellow gold on leather
• 3860BA yellow gold on yellow gold

The Ladies’ TYPE XX, References 4820 And 4821

The House of Breguet was officially acquired by the Swatch group in 1999, and naturally with this came some changes for the brand. Under the personal leadership of Nicolas G. Hayek, Breguet’s production and distribution networks went through a major expansion.

For the first time, the increasingly successful Type XX family now was introduced to a ladies’ Type XX model, keeping in tradition with Breguet offering its female clientele luxury timepieces. The first ladies’ Type XX to come out was in spring of 2000, when the 4820ST was released in a black dial with a steel bracelet. In spring 2001, Breguet released a more elegant version, the reference 4821 ST, which came with a mother-of-pearl dial and a bezel set with diamonds.

Ladies Type XX Reference 4820 And 4821

Movement: 10½-line calibre 550 movement, selfwinding
without ‘retour en vol’ (fly-back function)

Case: Polished steel case with fluted caseband,
water-resistant with screw-down caseback,
diameter 32.5mm, thickness 11.7mm

Caseback: Bearing inscriptions: BREGUET TYPE XX,
automatique, individual Breguet number, ETANCHE
100m, REF. 4820, TRANSATLANTIQUE.

Dial: Black (4820) or mother-of-pearl (4821),
with Breguet signature in cursive script

Quantity:
• 4820ST steel, black D2 dial, on steel
• 4821ST steel, mother-of-pearl dial and diamondset
bezel, on steel

The TYPE XXI, Reference 3810

With Breguet now being acquired by Swatch Group, the brand expanded its product line up by keeping up to date with trends. One of the latest trends during this time was timepieces with larger diameters. Breguet jumped on this trend with the Type XX family, however, still kept faithful to the spirit of aviation.

The brand created a new chronograph timepiece complete with a date function and ‘retour en vol’ (fly-back function). The name given for this latest creation was Type XXI or reference 3810, sitting nicely in between references 3800 and 3820.

The stand-out features of Type XXI were the 42mm diameter, the bronze-coloured dial, and the Breguet Signature underlined by the fine inscription ‘retour en vol’ in a beautiful cursive script. The subdials included a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, a small seconds counter at 9 o’clock, and a day/night indicator at 3 o’clock. In addition to the central chronograph seconds hand, Breguet also gave reference 3810 a 60-minute counter in the form of a second central hand, tipped with a small triangle.

Type XXI Reference 3810

Movement: 13-½ line calibre 584Q movement with
self-winding and ‘retour en vol’ (fly-back function)

Case: Polished steel, gold or titanium case with
fluted caseband, water-resistant with screw-down
case-back, diameter 42mm, thickness 15.2mm

Caseback: Bearing the inscriptions: BREGUET
TYPE XXI, individual Breguet number, ETANCHE
10 bar (100m), REF. 3810, AUTOMATIQUE

Dial: With Breguet signature in cursive script
followed by ‘retour en vol’

Quantity:
• 3810ST steel on leather
• 3810ST steel on steel
• 3810BR rose gold on leather
• 3810TI titanium on leather
• 3810TI titanium on titanium

The TYPE XXII, Reference 3880

The last main reference of the third-generation Type XX models was the Type XXII or reference 3880. Like the other models in the 3800 family, reference 3880 came with some very special features. Breguet Manufacture was researching a developing a high-frequency escapement, which finally came to fruition with the creation of a 10 Hertz escapement. In 2010, the 10-hertz movement was officially released with the Type XXII model.

Breguet’s Type XXII was initially released with a steel case on a leather strap or steel bracelet, however, three years later, Breguet expanded the reference 3880 lineup with a stunning rose gold version. Upon the model’s release, the display of the reference 3880 model was thought of as being confusing for the wearer because of the small second hand. Normally the full rotation of the small second’s hand would mark the minute, however, on reference 3880, a full rotation of the small second’s hand only made 30 seconds. This meant that to get a full minute, the small second’s hand needs to make two rotations. Unsure as to the reasoning behind this by Breguet, but it sure made it interesting for the wearer.

Type XXII Reference 3880

Movement: 13¼-line calibre 589F movement with
self-winding and ‘retour en vol’ (fly-back function)

Case: Polished steel or rose gold case with fluted
caseband, water-resistant with screw-down
caseback, diameter 44mm, thickness 18mm

Caseback: Bearing the inscriptions: BREGUET
TYPE XXII, SPIRAL & ECHAPPEMENT SILICIUM
– FREQUENCY 10 Hz, individual Breguet number,
ETANCHE 10 bar (100m), AUTOMATIQUE, REF.
3880.

Dial: With Breguet signature in cursive script
followed by ‘retour en vol’ and ‘10 Hz’ in red

Quantity:
• 3880ST steel on leather
• 3880ST steel on steel
• 3880BR rose gold on leather
• 3880BR rose gold on rose gold

The evolution of the first-gen Type XX started in 1963 with the Valjoux 14-line 222/225 movement being replaced by a more modernized Valjoux 13-line 230/720 movement. Once the movement was upgraded, it was naturally time to improve the aesthetics. This came in 1970 when the Breguet upgraded the timepiece’s aesthetics by producing the second-generation in 1970s style that unmistakably fit the era.

When the second-generation Type XX was launched in 1971, it was instantly recognisable thanks to its larger case which was also now polished rather than brushed steel. The lugs on the timepiece were also broader and thicker. Breguet also increased the size from the first gen’s 38mm case to now a 40mm case, which also had a stronger ring of casing inside to hold the movement in place. Another fine detail on the second-gen was that the top of the winding crown was decorated with a fine grid pattern.

The second generation Type XX had a decent start upon its release. Between 1971 and 1986, according to sales ledgers, approximately 770 models of the second-gen were sold. 406 of these models had a 3-counter layout (including 15-minute and 12-hour totalisers), while the remaining 364 models had a 2 sub-counter layout (15-minute totaliser only). The numbering system for the second-generation timepieces was also changed. While the first-gen was numbered in series from 250-5250, the second-gen came with a special numbering system where each piece was given its own 5-digit number, starting with 20050.

Thanks to the popularity of the Type XX model, and also its second-gen version, the House of Breguet continued the opening of its distribution network. Breguet strengthened its existing relationship with Aéroshopping boutique at Le Bourget airport, which first began in 1969. Between the years of 1971 and 1982, this boutique sold over 175 Type XX, which equated to approximately 25 percent of the total sales of the model. Breguet also took on new clients in France during the years 1971 to 1982, which included 4 watches being sold to a helicopter company, Heli-Union, and 10 watches sold to Aérospatiale (Airbus Industrie). A very distinguished client, the President of France, Georges Pompidou, was also interested in these watches, and in 1971 the ‘Présidence de la République’ bought six Type XX’s as official gifts.

The second-generation Type XX models proved to be a huge success for Breguet, even though no large official orders from the French weren’t put through. The first-generation models that were produced over a decade or so ago were still in great working order, which was also a testament to the build quality of these timepieces. Regardless of the success of the first-gen Type XX and also the strong competition from rival houses, clients still put their trust in Breguet for the second-generation model.

A total of 115 second-generation Type XX timepieces were supplied between 1971 to 1978 to different clients. Breguet states that “The archives reveal that 40 Type XXs (with minute counter) were supplied to the FAR (Royal Moroccan Air Force) in July 1975, with a further dozen watches supplied simply to ‘Morocco’; 10 additional watches (with 15-minute counter) were supplied to the Chad Air Force in 1972; 53 pieces were supplied to the OGA (Office Général de l’Air) between 1971 and 1978, of which 35 (with 15-minute and 12-hour counters) were destined for ‘Abidjan’, probably the These Type XXs are also recognisable by their grid-pattern crown. Second-generation Type XX is viewed in profile, with its polished steel case and the black rotating bezel. Ivory Coast Air Force; and 12 pieces (with 15-minute counters) were supplied to the ‘Air Service Gabon’ company in 1977.“

After 1980, the sales of Type XX timepieces lapsed into a slow decline, with one of the reasons being that Breguet was now focusing the brand’s marketing strategy on their gold watches with both classic three-hander and complications. These watches were going through a period of strong revival, which meant that the brand didn’t see the importance of promoting the Type XX timepieces. Even though Type XX still had sales throughout London, Geneva, and Brussels between 1980 – 1984, the story of Type XX was drawing to a close. By 1986, the Type XX was officially dropped from production, and the last 38 timepieces that remained in stock were sold off to an official Breguet agent in Italy, which marked the end of an era, a period of Breguet’s rich history that lasted for over thirty years.

The Second-Generation TYPE XX

Movement: Valjoux 13-line 720 movement with
‘retour en vol’ (fly-back function); Valjoux 725
movement for pieces with 15-minute and 12-hour
totalizers from c.1975

Case: Polished steel case, water-resistant
with screw-down caseback, diameter 40mm

Caseback: Bearing individual Breguet number

Dial: Black, with Breguet signature in cursive script

Quantity produced: 770 pieces

The house of Breguet in the early 1950s built up quite a resume in providing timepieces for aviation. This experience helped the brand prepare to respond to the needs of the air forces that wanted to equip their aircrews with a robust chronograph wristwatch with unique features.

When it comes to aviation timepieces, it’s crucial for the pilots and also aircrews to know the time during flights also to help keep their bearings in an environment that has intense activity and stress. Being able to use instruments to calculate the times of flights and their connecting flights, monitor fuel consumption, take bearings, and also to carry out maneuvers are some of the things that would be refined by watchmakers over the years to come.

From the 1930s onwards, the house of Breguet manufactured large quantities of “special” products, watches that were designed to fit a particular set of constraints suited for the aeronautical environment. The late 1940s was the dawn of the jet age, which saw Breguet releasing new wristwatches in response to the new requirements of a rapidly developing aviation industry.

For the aforementioned reasons above, being able to tell the time during flights was now an invaluable resource for everyone involved in the aviation industry. It became essential to have a back-up system, which is where wristwatches would play their part. The chronograph that was built into the instrument panel of the plane, a second one was now added to the wrists of the pilots. If one of these malfunctioned or became unstable, the other would simply take over.

For Breguet, providing the military with large potential orders first started in 1952. On the 23rd of July, Breguet supplied the STAé (Service Technique Aéronautique) with the three prototype pieces, numbers 1200, 1201, and 1202. In April 1953, the timepieces that were sent to the STAé were given the codename “Type 20”, a name that will go down in history for the brand. Come spring 1953, the STAé would give the official go-ahead, marking a major step forward for Breguet.

The Type 20 ‘ARMÉE DE L’AIR’

In 1954, Bruguet was awarded contract number 5101/54, which can essentially be described as the “contract of the century”. In order to meet and satisfy the requirements of the French Air Force, the French Air Ministry commissioned Bregeut to produce a mammoth 1100 timepieces. By November 1954, Breguet’s entire workforce, along with the house suppliers, were geared up to work and, through a herculean effort, was able to push out an initial batch of 250 units by June 1955. A second batch of 240 units was supplied on the 16th of November 1955 as well. Then 245 pieces were supplied on June 1956, along with another 245 pieces on July 1957. From 1955 to 1957, over 980 timepieces were supplied to the French Air Ministry. The remaining 120 watches were then supplied in 1958 and, lastly, in 1959.

The Type 20 timepieces supplied to the Air Ministry were immediately recognizable thanks to the small 30-minute counter, unsigned dial, ungraduated bezel, regulation markings on the back, and the pear-shaped winding crown.

The Type 20 ‘ARMÉE DE L’AIR’

Movement: 14-line Valjoux 222 movement
with ‘retour en vol’ (fly-back function)

Case: Waterproof steel case with screw-down
case back, diameter 38.3mm

Caseback: Bearing official inscription: BREGUET –
TYPE 20 – 5101/54 – individual Breguet number.

Dial: Black, without signature

Quantity produced: 1100 pieces.

The Type XX ‘CEV’ (Centre D’Essais En Vol)

As Breguet was building the Type 20s for the French Air Force, the brand was also dedicating its resources to developing a series of Type 20 variants for the “Civilian” clientele along with other organisations. In May 1955, Breguet developed a new variant of the Type XX, a timepiece that bore the number 1888. This Type XX variant came equipped with a small subdial at 6 o’clock and a 12-hour totaliser.

Besides the “civilian” clientele, this watch was designed to attract one client in particular: the Centre d’Essais en Vol or Test Flight Centre (CEV). CEV officially adopted the Type XX as an operational watch in late 1956. The organisation and its staff members had acquired their first chronographs from Breguet. A total of 80 “14-line Type XX’s” and 4 Type XX’s were supplied by Breguet.

A special timepiece bearing the number 2499 with the inscription on the case back “CEV 1” was made with a bronze or “chocolate” coloured dial. This unique timepiece was given to the chief officer of CEV, Ingénieur Général Louis Bonte. The timepiece is now being held in the collection of the Breguet Museum.

The Type XX ‘CEV’ (Centre D’Essais En Vol)

Movement: Valjoux 225 14-line movement with
‘retour en vol’ (fly-back function) for the 50 pieces
equipped with 15-minute and 12-hour totalizers.

Valjoux 222 14-line movement with
‘retour en vol’ (fly-back function) for the 30 pieces
with a 15-minute totalizer.

Case: Brushed steel case, water-resistant with
screw-down caseback, diameter 38.3 mm

Caseback: Bearing official inscriptions: CEV no. x
(of 80) – individual Breguet number

Dial: Black, with Breguet signature in cursive script

Quantity produced: 80 pieces.

The Type XX ‘Aeronautique Navale’

In 1958, the order for the French Air Force was close to being completed by Breguet. A year after the delivery of the CEV order, another major commission for Breguet arrived. This latest commission comes from the last remaining branch of French military aviation, the Aéronautique Navale (French Naval Air Force), a branch that’s not attached to the Air Force but instead to the Navy. The total order of timepieces to be commissioned was 500 units. Although this seems smaller than the previous orders Breguet received, it’s still a sizeable commission.

The Type XX ‘CEV’ (Centre D’Essais En Vol)

Movement: Valjoux 222 14-line movement with
‘retour en vol’ (fly-back function)

Case: Brushed steel case, water-resistant screwdown
caseback, diameter 38.3mm

Caseback: Bearing official inscriptions: BREGUET –
MARINE NATIONALE – AERONAUTIQUE NAVALE
– no. x (of 500) – individual Breguet number.

Dial: Black, with Breguet signature in cursive script

Quantity produced: 500 pieces.

The Type XX ‘CIVIL’

When the Breguet Type XX first made its debut, the appeal of the timepiece made its way far beyond the fields of aviation. The Type XX was an attractive timepiece to the sectors of industry and scientific research that needed to provide engineers and technicians with a watch that was able to withstand the demands of their projects. One of these companies was CNET (Centre National d’Etudes des Télécommunications), which purchased 22 pieces between 1956 and 1968, Energie Atomique,
bought 6 pieces in 1959, Electronique Marcel Dassault in 1963, French Television in 1957, and the Service d’Aéronomie, the first French space laboratory, in 1966.

The Type XX ‘CEV’ (Centre D’Essais En Vol)

Movement: Valjoux 14-line 225 movement with
‘retour en vol’ (fly-back function); Valjoux 13-line
720 movement for pieces equipped with 15-minute
and 12-hour totalizers from 1963.

Valjoux 14-line 222 movement with
‘retour en vol’ (fly-back function); Valjoux 13-line
230 movement for pieces equipped with 15-minute
totalizer from 1963

Case: Brushed steel case, water-resistant with
screw-down caseback, diameter 38.3mm

Caseback: Bearing individual Breguet number

Dial: Black, with Breguet signature in cursive script

Quantity produced: 2300 pieces

Regardless of whether the client was an individual or a company, the purchase of a Type XX during the 1950s and 1960s involved making quite a journey to what was the only premises where they watches were available; the Breguet boutique at 28 Place Vendôme. In 1969, however, this finally changed when the house of Breguet decided that it was time to widen its distribution of the Type XX timepiece, thereyby launching a partnership with a specialist retailer in aeronautical equipment; the Aéroshopping boutique at Paris-Le Bourget Airport.

I think Taylor Swift said it well in her song Blank Space, when she sung “I’m a nightmare dressed like a daydream”, which is exactly what this scenario is for many of us. A daydream that could be a nightmare for us indecisive watch lovers! This question came up when talking to one of my colleagues a few weeks ago; what would you buy with $100k? The honest answer is, I have no idea, as the options and possibilities are endless!

Is the $100k a watch at retail, or on the grey market? Does it have to be new, or second hand? And when splurging that type of cash on just ONE watch, do you go for a daily wearer, or one that you pull out at special occasions to show off? Now you can see the whole nightmare part of this daydream scenario. Again, thanks TayTay.

Watch Advice is about giving advice, so naturally, for anyone out there that’s blessed to have this first world problem, we have a five great choices for you. And for those just playing along at home and daydreaming about such a scenario, then dream about some of the below pieces gracing your wrist. Maybe one day one of them will!

Just note, all the prices are at retail, as we’re assuming that you can buy at retail new from a store, not the grey market or second hand, and with you’re new found wealth, why not – it is an imaginary scenario after all!

Breguet Classique Hora Mundi 5727

Maybe not a daily wearer, unless you sit in an office all day as a CEO that is. Nonetheless, Breguet are known for their beautiful watch making, and with $100k at your disposal, this is right on the mark! The 18k Gold Hora Mundi 5727 combines instant time-zone jump with synchronised date, 24-hour and city indications, perfect for those wanting to travel and do it in style!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $100,000

Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Piaget is massively underrated in my opinion, and if you’re wanting something different with serious horological chops, then the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a fantastic statement piece that says “I don’t follow the crowd”. The green dial is stunning, and Piaget pioneered the Ultra Thin movement over 50 years ago, which you can read here. It’s a 42mm case, only 8.65mm thick, and to cram all those complications into a movement that’s only 4mm thick is a work of art and science!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $89,000

AP Royal Oak Pink Gold Chronograph 38mm

No daydream scenario would be complete without at least entertaining an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. In this instance, the pink gold 38mm Chronograph will do the trick! And as these wear large, it will feel like you’ve a 40-41mm on the wrist, and the pink gold combined with the blue Grande Tapisserie dial is perfect and says you’ve made it! It’s a tad over the limit, but hey, only a couple of grand!

Australian Approximate Retail Price: $102,000

Marco Lang Zweigesicht Variation III In Platinum

Marco Lang may not be a name you’ve heard of, but the German watchmaker is doing some incredible work, like the Zweigesicht Variation III in Platinum. With only 18 watches available, you’ll be sure to stand out. This model has a white-fired skeletonized dial in solid silver, covered with blue, translucent enamel “grand feu” and Cathedral hands in blued steel. If that wasn’t enough, the shapes and materials of the hands, hand engravings in the movement and on the case, even different cuts and polishes can be customised for you.

Price based on dial and customisation chosen, circa $100,000

Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire

Hublot gets a bad wrap, but to be honest, they do things with materials most other brands wouldn’t think of, and the R&D that goes into some of their pieces is quite amazing. And if you’re not afraid to show off a little, then the Big Bang Unico Sapphire 42 is the perfect statement piece, after all, you’ve got the cash, so why not flaunt it a little. With an all sapphire case, skeletonised dial and the HUB1280 Unico in house movement with flyback chronograph, you’re actually getting a decent watch under all that showiness.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $96,000

So there you have it – 5 watches that will let you blow $100,000 in one hit! And if you don’t like any of these suggestions, then feel free to drop us a comment in the section below and tell us what you’d buy with a lazy $100k?

The Lunar Calendar for example is specifically a calendar that is based on the cycles of the moon. It’s estimated that the average time between two full moons is 29.5 days, therefore the months on the Lunar Calendar were made to be either 29 or 30 days.

A moon phase complication is one of the world’s oldest watch complications. The complication dates back to Ancient Greek times, where the earliest moon phase complication was found on the Antikythera Mechanism. This mechanism was developed by the Ancient Greeks to predict astronomical events, and it would show moon phases and eclipses.

In the modern world, when a moon phase complication is mentioned, one immediately thinks of wristwatches. The first moon phase complication on a wristwatch was developed by Patek Phillipe in 1925, which was shortly followed by Rolex with their own interpretation of the moon phase with Reference 8171 in 1949. In the 21st century, the moon phase complication can be found on timepieces ranging from entry-level to high-level luxury pieces. Most brands follow the same design of displaying the moon phase on the dial, however, a few brands have dared to step outside the norm and create incredible pieces that show this complication in a new light.

How does the moon phase complication work?

The most common way a moon phase is designed on a timepiece is by having two moons on a disc that rotates, shown through a half-circle aperture on the dial. This aperture would only show the correct phase of the moon depending on its current position on the Lunar cycle.

As mentioned earlier, the Lunar Cycle is approximately 29.5 days per month. To be accurate for a watch-making complication, however, the Lunar Cycle is taken as 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 2.8 seconds. The hour wheel on the gear train plays a vital role in the operation of the moon phase. As the hour wheel makes one full rotation around the dial every 12 hours (on standard 12-hour timepieces), the hour wheel drives the moon wheel at a ratio of 1:2 (24hrs/2).

The standard moon disc will come with a one-tooth gear that is mounted co-axially. Hidden underneath the dial, the moon disc has 59 peripheral teeth, which results in the advancement of the moon disc once per day. The reason there are 59 teeth is because of the Lunar cycle. 59 divided by 2 is 29.5, which means one moon phase will end after 29.5 days. Having two moons on the moon disc means that when the cycle for the first one is finished, the disc automatically will display the Lunar cycle for the second disc, thereby having a continuous rotational moon phase.

A Moon phase can be displayed in many different ways on the dial. The most common is the half-circle aperture on the dial where the moon phase, the starry night sky along with clouds are shown. Below is a list of some of the different variations of moon phases shown on watch dials.

Blancpain Villeret Quatieme Complet Blue Dial

(Image ref: Watche-news.com/villeret-quatieme-complet-blue-dial)

This stunning display of horology combines red gold with a deep sky blue to make one aesthetic-looking watch. Everything about this timepiece was made to be as beautiful as possible, to complement the host of complications sitting underneath.

The Villeret Quatieme Complet Blue Dial comes with a standard moon phase aperture at 6 o’clock, where a graphic display of the moon and two stars are shown. The half aperture is designed to show the clouds covering the night sky and moon. Along the top half of the aperture, Blancpain has also shown the Lunar cycle of 29.5 days.

Breguet Classique Quantieme Perpetual 7327

Another beautiful display of functions on a dial is the updated Breguet Classique Quantieme Perpetual 7327. The successor to reference 5327 from Breguet, this dial is more refined, less cluttered, and also has an updated moon phase indicator.

The previous moon phase design for this Classique Quantieme Perpetual looked very similar to the Blancpain moon phase indicator above. For this latest reference, Breguet has chosen to go with an accurate depiction of the moon and starry night sky, combined with the aperture’s cloud design. Once again the Lunar Calendar cycle days can be found on the top of the aperture.

If you want to read more about the Breguet Classique Quantieme Perpetual 7327 and see more close-up pictures of that beautiful moon phase, click here!

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Moonphase Titanium Hands

This monochromatic timepiece is uplifted by the colourful moon phase display at 6 o’clock. The timepiece is full skeleton, where everything is stripped down to a bare minimum to show the movement and workings underneath.

The moon phase indicator follows suit. Although not fully skeletonised, the timepiece comes with a transparent aperture. This shows how the previously mentioned moon phase disc is operated, with two moons being displayed on the singular disc so that after one Lunar cycle ends the other begins in a continuous motion.

Want to see more of this skeletal masterpiece and a closer look at how the moon phase disc looks? Click here!

Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow

The C1 Moonglow by Christopher Ward gives a unique take on the moon phase indicator. The brand’s in-house moon phase movement tracks the moon’s orbit accurately for 128 years! There are two-three dimensional moons on the dial, coated with a generous amount of Grade X1 GL Super-LumiNova, which gives that incredible “moonglow” you see in the picture.

Rotating like a normal moon disc, now covering the whole dial, the phase of the moon can be read from an aperture at 12 o’clock, while the second moon remains “clouded” under smoked glass.

HERMÈS Arceau L’heure De La Lune

One of the most epic displays of a moon phase indicator we’ve seen is HERMÈS’s Arceau L’heure De La Lune. This is a dreamlike timepiece made for lovers of astronomy.

This very unique timepiece shows what Earth’s satellites see’s. It simultaneously displays the moon phases of both the northern and southern hemispheres. The phases of the moon are indicated by, you guessed it, the rotating sub-dials of the hour and date.

This awe-inspiring display of rocks, moon phases, and rotating subdials can be seen more in-depth in our article here!

Arnold & Son Luna Magna Gold

The Arnold & Son Luna Magna Gold is a stunning display of a moon phase indicator. The timepiece focuses solely on the moon phase indicator, with even the main dial being offset to show more of the moon phase and the surrounding starry night sky.

This is the first-ever 3D moon phase indicator shown on a watch at this scale. Made of marble and aventurine, the moon showcases its different phases with astronomical precision. On the case back of the timepiece, is Arnold & Son’s incredible aesthetic design of the movement. At the center of the case back, the brand has placed a rotating sphere that accurately represents the appearance of the quarters of the moon against a starry backdrop.

This year, Breguet is paying tribute to this original timepiece. By revisiting the old, the brand is unveiling two new models in two gold colours, placed within the brand’s Classique collection. This latest release, the Quantième Perpétuel 7327, reflects the very essence that makes Breguet what it is; a simple-to-use timepiece full of complexity underneath. This Breguet Classique Quantieme Perpetual 7327 carries the same fascinating functions born out of 19th-century watchmaking, such as displaying the exact date, which considers the variable length of months and leap-year cycle.

This new reference 7327 is an upgrade from reference 5327, released in 2004. Compared to the older reference 5327, this model is more pleasing to the eye and breaks up the dial showcasing more of the beautiful guilloche dial. The reference 5327 model had a lot of functions displayed on the dial, which can lead to the dial being too cluttered. Breguet was, however, able to make this reference work well by minimising the size of the sub-dials and having enough space between them. So yes, while the dial may seem busy, readability wasn’t completely taken away.

The new reference 7327 has taken the essence of what referred 5327 great, and offer’s a more open space/less cluttered dial. Keeping the same case size of 39mm as reference 5327, Breguet is offering the Quantième Perpétuel 7327 in either 18-carat white gold or 18-carat rose gold case materials. To match the cases, the watches are offered in blue alligator leather (white gold case) or brown alligator leather strap (rose gold case).

So what are the main differences between the 2004 reference 5327 to the new reference 7327?

Date indicator:

At first glance, the first thing on the dial you will notice is the significantly larger date display indicator compared to the previous version. Upon closer inspection, one will see the ‘1st’ of the month indicator is smaller in font size than the rest of the date fonts; on the previous version (5327), the font remains the same size.

Another notable change is inside the date display circle. On the older version (5327), there is a different guilloche pattern compared to the rest of the dial, whereas, in the new version (7327), the guilloche pattern remains the same as the rest of the dial.

Moonphase indicator:

The moon phase gets a refined update; the significant change is that the moon phase is displayed in a semi-circle in the new version compared to the full-circle display in the older version.

In the new version, the moon disk is covered with a blue lacquer containing glittering dust made of aluminium and silicon oxides, giving the aspect of a starry sky. The moon is made of a white gold dot. Its surface is finely hammered to provide a natural part. This is a sophisticated update from the previous version, where the moon disk is made of a hollowed gold wheel. The hollows are covered with a blue lacquer, letting the moon and stars appear on the upper surface.

Another notable change is the placement of the “Breguet” logo. In the older version, the logo was somewhat hidden in the top right of the moon phase display, and now, in the new version, the logo sits off-centred and is visible.

The power reserve indicator 5327 (old) vs Retrograde month indicator 7327 (new):

The newer version replaces the power reserve indicator with a retrograde month indicator. We can see that the retrograde month indicator protrudes into the hour track, which gives the dial a symmetrical appearance, with the moon phase indicator and date indicator doing the same.

Day indicator:

The day of the week indication is now abbreviated to three letters compared to the older version, which was indicated with a single letter. While this may make the indicator seem very compact and cluttered, it also makes reading this sub-dial much easier at first glance. What’s also noticeable is that the inner patterns of the day indicator sub-dial have changed.

The size of the day indicator remains relatively unchanged. However, the ring in which the day indications are displayed is smaller, which leaves more room in the inner part of the sub-dial. Breguet has cleverly used this space to display more of the beautiful guilloché pattern.

Leap year indicator:

The leap year indication gets a refresh too. In the older version, four quarters on the circle were written with “1st,2nd,3rd year” and “leap year”, whereas the new leap year indicator is refined to just numerals and leap year indicated by a letter ‘B”.

The letter “B” stands for “Bissextile Year”, which origins in the sixteenth century, deriving from the Latin term bissextilis meaning ‘having an intercalary day’, is another way to indicate a leap year.

Guilloché pattern:

The guilloché pattern on the old 5327 reference was certainly more prominent. This dial pattern was further accentuated by the darker tone of the Silvered gold dial, which is hand-engraved on a rose engine. The larger guilloché pattern makes it more noticeable, but on the 5327 dial, it can be a double-edged sword, as it can aid in the busier dial.

The new 7327 guilloché pattern takes a different approach and is a lot more subtle in its appearance. Named Clous de Paris hobnail pattern, this guilloché pattern is smaller in design. It’s still noticeable but doesn’t get in the way of the watch’s functions.

Movement:

Breguet has kept the movement of the new model (502.3P) relatively similar to the 5327 model, with the primary functional change being the power reserve indicator changed to the retrograde month indicator. The 502.3p movement operates at a frequency of 3Hz (21, 600 VpH) whilst putting out a decent power reserve of 45 hours.

The 502.3P movement easily remains one of Breguet’s thinnest at this 4.5mm thick. Despite its small stature, the movement provides a high level of performance. One way Breguet has made the movement thin is by pushing the oscillating weight off-centre, which allows more space for the movement’s main components.

While the off-centre oscillating weight provides a functional purpose, it gives an aesthetic purpose too. The incredible beauty of the case back can be thoroughly admired for its beauty. One thing Breguet prides itself in (if it already wasn’t for the beautiful dials and innovations) is the mesmerizing movement decorations. The gold oscillating weight comes with a circular barleycorn motif, while the bridges have Côtes de Genève along with other components having a likewise finish while also being chamfered. These beautifully intricate details are carried out by the artisans in the Manufacture located in the heart of Vallée de Joux.

The movement also allows for the fine adjustments of the various functions displayed in this perpetual timepiece. Two points on the movement/case allow for corrections and adjustments. Firstly, a corrector stylus is used at the 4 o’clock position on the case to adjust the day indicator. The stylus is then used between 4 and 5 o’clock to adjust the moon phase indicator, 6 o’clock to adjust the date indicator, and 9 o’clock to adjust the month and year. The time itself is adjusted as standard per the crown.

Breguet’s Quantième Perpétuel 7327 is the latest model to enter their Classique collection. This collection of watches faithfully illustrates the brand’s design codes that go back to the original designs of the timepieces. The Classique collection all features the neoclassical style of watchmaking. Abraham-Louis Breguet’s “moon” tip watch hands, guilloché pattern on the dial, and off-centre dial are some of the creations found in the Classique collection of watches, with many of these creations appearing in this new Quantième Perpétuel 7327.

Reference: 7327BB/11/9VU, 7327BR/11/9VU

Specification:

• Case: 39 mm
• Case Material: 18-carat white gold, sapphire crystal case-back or 18-carat rose gold, sapphire-crystal case-back
• Dial: Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal, scratch resistant with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 3 bar (30 m)
• Movement: 502.3.P
• Power Reserve: 45 hours
• Strap: Blue or brown alligator leather with folding clasp.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: 116,800 AUD

Availability: June 2023

When people think of Grail Watches, many people think abut rare and expensive models. Maybe your mind wanders to a Jacob and Co Astronomia Sky, or you fancy a Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe? Two very nice marvels of engineering timepieces, but unless you’re a very wealthy, and seasoned collector (or Jay Z) very out of reach for mere mortals like most of us! However in this article, I’ll look at a range of potential grail watches that are obtainable, and as explained in the previous article, a Grail Watch can change across your collecting journey based on your experience with brands, knowledge of the industry, maturity and budget. And just for fun, many of these won’t be your go-to grails, but some left of centre pieces that will (possibly) make you re-think your choices.

Two very impressive Grail Watches – Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe and the Jacob and Co. Astronomia Sky.

The Novice Collector

When many of us enter the watch world, we have some ideas of what we’d love to own one day. Now I’m making an assumption here that as a novice starting your collecting journey, you’re not flushed with cash and your first watch isn’t a Daytona. Maybe you’ve dipped your toes in the water with a TAG Heuer Aquaracer as a great entry level steel sports watch, or you want something slightly different to fuel your adventurous spirit and decided on a Longines Spirit Zulu Time – two great choices for under AUD $5,000 and a solid start to your collection. But what would a potential grail watch be in this point of your collecting journey? Let’s explore a couple of options:

IWC Pilots Chronograph 41

IWC are know for their Pilot’s watches, and the Pilots Watch Chronograph in Blue is a great Grail watch for those that have a sense of adventurous spirit. Great looking, wears well and is versatile – can be dressed up or down depending on your preference. A little bit of casual luxury at its best.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $11,400

Zenith Chronomaster Sport

Zenith has a great history and the El Primero movement is classic, and at one point in time, Zenith supplied the Chronograph movement to Rolex to use in the Daytona. The Chronomaster Sport when released a couple of years ago was an instant hit! Despite some calling it Fake Daytona, this is a good looking watch and the perfect Grail for those wanting a great blend of classic and modern looks in a sports watch.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $16,600

The Intermediate Collector

So you’ve collecting now for about 5 or so years. You’ve got some decent pieces in the collection, perhaps you’ve been lucky to obtain one of the above Novice Grails, and you’ve now moved your Grail Goal to something a little higher. You want something that people will instantly notice, and recognise, and know you’re serious about watches. So what do you put on your list? Here’s a couple of pieces that you could aim for…

Rolex Yacht-Master 40

Whilst not much more price wise than a Chronomaster Sport, the fact that this is a Rolex puts it into a higher tier, as generally speaking, you’ve had to have bought a few pieces through your chosen dealer to score one of these (Unless you buy grey or 2nd hand, then you’re paying more!) The Yacht-Master is a great Grail choice as it’s not your standard Submariner or GMT Master II or Daytona that everyone lusts after. It’s both sporty and elegant with the polishing on the case and inner links, can be dressed up or down and is just that little bit different!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $17,350

Omega Blue Side Of The Moon

Now here is one for the true watch lovers. The Omega Blue Side Of The Moon (BSOTM) with moonsphase, Ceragold bezel and Adventurine dial with 18k Sedna Gold indices in an all blue ceramic case looks visually stunning, and stands out from the crowd. The Adventurine dial mimics the night sky and each dial is unique, due to the way the glass is made, and the Senda Gold Moon on the moonsphase display is stunning. At 44.5mm it’s on the larger side, but wears very well!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $22,500

The Seasoned Collector

You’ve been in the game now for a while, you’ve got a pretty good knowledge of most things watch related, and you’ve bought, sold and built your collection over many years. In all probability, you’re a little older and financially secure (unless you’re a crypto kid, won the lotto, or have mastered your TikTok influencer game!) and now you’re looking for that “special piece” to round out your collection…for now. Two timepieces that you could explore adding to your wrist, I mean, list:

Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Yes, you read that right. Piaget. I could have gone with a Rose Gold Daytona with diamond baguettes, but that would be too obvious. The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a fantastic statement piece that says “I don’t follow the crowd”. The green dial is stunning, and Piaget pioneered the Ultra Thin movement over 50 years ago, which you can read here. It’s a 42mm case, only 8.65mm thick, and to cram all those complications into a movement that’s only 4mm thick is a work of art and science!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $89,000

Breguet Classique Hora Mundi 5727

Breguet are known for their beautiful watch making, and whilst not a hype watch brand, they are steeped in history, and have some very elegant and classic pieces. The 18k Gold Hora Mundi 5727 combines instant time-zone jump with synchronised date, 24-hour and city indications, perfect for those wanting to travel and do it in style!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $100,000

Money Is No Object

You’ve made it. You don’t worry about money and the world is your oyster. Perhaps you’re an A-List Hollywood celebrity, or a multi-platinum recording artist and your watch collection has it’s own room in your mansion. And for us mortals, these Grail Watches are what dreams are made of, or rather, just in our dreams! However, I won’t be showing any Patek Philippe’s or AP’s here, again those are too obvious. Here are some alternative pieces to drool over!

Blancpain Villeret Carrousel Volant Une Minute

Blancpain may be known for their dive watches, but their complications are special. The Carrousel Volant Une Minute has a one-minute flying carrousel complication that Blancpain has revived and incorporated into a watch for the first time and all enclosed into a 43mm Platinum case and 14mm thick. Oh, and it’s limited edition too just to ensure exclusivity.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $293,200

Roger Dubuis Excalibur DT Black Ceramic

Not for the faint of heart, Roger Dubuis makes some out there watches, but they are engineering marvels, on par with the likes of Richard Mille. The Excalibur DT Black Ceramic is a manual winding, Double Flying Tourbillon, limited to 28 pieces in a 45mm case. Oh, and it’s got a Geneva Seal, so the movement is up there with the best. This is a real stealth baller watch on another level!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $415,000

So fellow watch friends, there are some grail watch choices that you can aspire to, and work towards. They may not be the most obvious, or the most popular choices that many would have on their list, but they are fantastic pieces that should be considered. Happy collecting, and I hope that you find your Holy (Watch) Grail.

The oblong-shaped case measuring at 36.5mm x 28.45mm is derived from Breguet’s first wristwatch made back in 1810. This iconic case design was first made for the Queen of Naples back in June 8th, 1810 as a wristlet gift. Now it’s been presented once again with its feminine beauty for ladies everywhere to enjoy. The crown is located at the 4 o’clock position, which is set with its own diamond. The bezel ring around the oblong case along with the dial flange has 117 diamonds (approx 0.94 ct).

The light pink dial is made from “Grand feu” and it perfectly compliments the rose gold case. The roman hour indices that are found on Reine de Naples timepieces are retained in this model as well and it completes the overall feminine look of the watch. The off-center hour circle carries the iconic Breguet hour and minute hands. These “Breguet hands” were first created back in 1783 for pocket watches, with the design resembling a hollow apple or crescent moon. A design that has remained relatively unchanged for more than two centuries. Finally, finishing off this elegant dial is a pear-shaped diamond at the 6 o’clock position.

Breguet’s Reine de Naples 8918 comes with a partially open case-back, just enough to show the movement and its hand-engraved platinum oscillating weight. At the heart of this timepiece is the 537/3 self-winding movement, which operates at a frequency of 3.5 Hz and gives out a power reserve of approximately 45 hours.

This Breguet Reine de Napes 8918 is offered in a soft-pink leather strap which compliments the watch perfectly. The other choice would be a black leather strap which would let the dial stand out, however, the pink strap it adds to the feminine character of the watch.

Reference: 8918BR/2C/364/D00D

Specification:

• Case: 36.5mm x 58.45mm Oblong-shape
• Case Material: Rose gold case
• Dial: Light pink “Grand feu”
• Crystal:  sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 3 Bar (30m)
• Movement: Automatic Breguet calibre R537/3
• Power reserve: 45 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Soft pink leather strap

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $55, 800

Availability: Now, through scheduled appointment from the E-commerce site.

As when Brequet first invented the tourbillon movement, they have done it again by seemingly defying the laws of physics to build a complex and beautiful movement in such a tight space. 

This new timepiece by was given then name “QUAI DE L’HORLOGE” in reference to the house that Abraham-Louis Breguet, the founder, purchased in Paris. A beautiful artistic engraving of the house is depicted on the case back, which we will touch on a bit later. The house QUAI DE L’HORLOGE does indeed play an iconic reference point in Breguet’s history, as this is where Abraham-Louis Breguet first created the tourbillon movement. 

Situated nicely between the artisans of the Ile de la Cité, Abraham-Louis Breguet would invent a watchmaking mechanism that would be endured throughout the centuries and still used to this date by some of the most prestigious brands around the globe. Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon at a time when timepieces were worn vertically in the waistcoat pocket. One of the significant problems with these timepieces was the earth’s gravity and how it would affect the chronometric accuracy of the movement. 

Breguet worked tirelessly to find a solution that would ultimately negate this problem. It was then that he came up with the idea to incorporate the balance wheel and spring along with the escapement (lever and escapement wheel) that would all be housed in a mobile carriage which would rotate about itself. The master watchmaker gave this mechanism the name “tourbillon” as a reference to the long-forgotten notion of a planetary system. A masterpiece creation, the tourbillon remains as an original creation from the House of Breguet. 

Design:

The Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge takes the notion of the tourbillon and amplifies it further in complexity, brilliance and beauty. The double tourbillon was first presented back in 2006; however, it is now for the first time liberated from the dial. The entire exposed mechanism pivots around its axis, at a rate of one full turn every 12 hours. The timepiece is run by two independent tourbillons, which individually each complete one full rotation per minute. This way, the tourbillon bar is simultaneously driven by the interconnected regulating organs which perform a double revolution. As a reference to tradition and past creations of grand complication movements back in time, several components have been made of gold.

Breguet have given the Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge a 46mm platinum case, which measures roughly 16.8mm in thickness. On the dial, the amount of detail is beautiful to admire. Putting the double tourbillon mechanism aside, the dial features a vast amount of detail. The barrel bridges in steel at 1 o’clock and 7 o’clock position take on the form of the letter B. Jewels have been carefully placed to add a touch of colour to what is simply a blue and white contrasting dial.

The components throughout the dial are carefully straight-grained, chamfered and even satin-brushed by hand. The hour ring has also been laid bare, which allows easy readability of the hand-engraved hour roman numerals. The hour and minute hands have been donned in blue to match the hour markers, with the hour hand being connected to the double tourbillon mechanism.

Movement:

Breguet have used a hand-winding manual calibre 588N movement for the Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge. Comprising of 738 components, the calibre 588N movement can give out a power reserve of 50 hours. The timekeeping parts of the double tourbillon are almost very similar in technicality to the original tourbillon movement created by Abraham-Louis Breguet. The steel balance springs are created with the terminal curve, which allows for the concentric development of the spring. 

This technique is characteristic of the founder Breguet himself. The tourbillon carriages are currently the only ones in Breguet’s collection that have a framework in black-polished steel. Black polished steel is known to have the highest degree of finishing in horological craftsmanship. 

The movement mechanism on the Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge is made to minimise the play in the wheels, which ensures an accurate display. This calibre, as stated by Breguet, is one of the most complex systems ever developed by the brand. The mobile nature of the mechanism forced the engineers to review the very nature of the manual winding system. Even the crown itself employs a dynamometric security system, which prevents excessive winding of the springs.

The case back of the Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge is as artistic as it gets in the horological world. Created by the artisans of the Breguet Manufacture, the case back features the engraving of the facade of the building 39 Quai de l’Horloge in Paris, which was occupied by Abraham-Louis Breguet from 1775 onwards. With the image etched into gold, the level of detail is quite astounding. Through the windowpanes of the engraved building on the case back, you can catch a glimpse of the wheels of the calibre 588N movement. 

This latest release from Breguet is a true testament to the brand’s character and expertise of being one of the finest watchmakers with the ability to create complicated artistic masterpieces. The Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge brings together mechanical virtuosity with aesthetic mastery all the while referencing the birthplace of the tourbillon movement. 

Global Pricing : 650,000 USD