It’s one of the most common questions we hear in person, on forums, and in general conversation amongst watch collectors. “I’m Looking to spend up to a certain dollar amount on a watch – needs to be X, Y, Z, what should I get?” So for today, we’re focusing on what you should get if you were to spend up to $20,000 on a Chronograph – one of the more useful and common complications on a watch today.

And for $20,000, there are a lot of choices to sort through, from dress chronographs, to pilots chronographs, to diver chronographs. The list goes on. And we can say that if you’re just starting your search it can be daunting, but don’t worry, we’ve got five great choices here that will suit a range of budgets, and are some of the best chronographs you can buy (at retail) for under AUD $20,000.

Longines Avigation Bigeye Chronograph

Longines has a long history with Aviation navigation (Avigation), with their watches donning the wrists some of history’s most notable Aviators. A Chronograph was (and still is) key for aviators, and the Longines Bigeye Chronograph represents this history and functionality in a modern vintage inspired piece.

This watch is all about functionality. Large lumed numerals on the dial, the large minutes counter at 3 o’clock for ease of reading at a glance and 41mm in size, not too big or small allowing all the information to fit on the dial. It’s a good looking modern watch with that vintage style and the L688 Chronograph movement is a decent movement and good bang for buck.

Australian RRP: $4,700 on leather. Available at Longines.com

Raymond Weil Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph

We recently did a hands on review on this specific watch and were impressed with its looks, the design elements and functionality. Check it out here. We’ve picked this as the Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph is good value for money and is also limited to just 400 pieces, 10 in Australia.

The flyback functionality is great, the multifaceted dial looks amazing and at 42mm, is sized well and sits flush on the wrist. Plus, it’s not something that everyone will have, and the design is unique, so it’s not something you see often.

Australian RRP: $6,995. Available at Raymond-Weil.com

Bremont Supermarine Chronograph

Watch Advice had the pleasure of touring the new Bremont Boutique in Melbourne last week, and this model caught our eye. The Supermarine is a robust divers watch designed for purpose, and this piece has the added functionality of the GMT, making it a highly versatile sports watch.

At 43mm and 16mm thick, it’s a larger wearing watch, but this isn’t meant to be a dress watch. The rubber strap is comfortable a suited to whatever you throw at it, and the watch is pure fun on your wrist – perfect for that next travel adventure overseas.

Australian RRP: $9,300 on rubber. Available at Bremont.com

Omega Speedmaster ‘57

No Chronograph collection is complete without an Omega Speedmaster. But we’ve gone something a little different to the standard Moonwatch. The Omega Speedmaster ’57 pays tribute to the 1957 Speedmaster (predating the Moonwatch) and is a perfect 40.5mm in size. With an in-house co-axial hand-wound movement that has 60hrs power reserve, it’s also on the slimmer side too, making at a great sports watch that can be dressed up and down.

The Speedmaster is synonymous with timing, and the ’57 is a nod to this. Plus it has the added functionality of the date window at 6 o’clock, which the Moonwatch doesn’t have, adding a touch more functionality to the piece.

Australian RRP: $15,250 on steel. Available at Omegawatches.com

Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42

Breitling are making some seriously good watches these days under the leadership of Georges Kern and the Premier B25 Datora is one of the best looking dress chronographs in our opinion. The B25 refers to their in-house concept movement & its look is reminiscent of a Patek, with that beautiful Salmon dial working brilliantly with the tan alligator strap.

“Datora” was a term used by Breitling in the 1940s and refers to a complete calendar chronograph displaying day, date, month and the different moon phases, making this highly useful. At 42mm and 15mm thick, its on the larger side, but wears very well and will turn heads with both watch and non-watch people!

Australian RRP: $19,790. Available at Breitling.com

So there you have five great chronographs to choose from under $20,000 and at a range of budgets too. Now the world of chronographs is massive, and whilst we’ve five here, there are so many more we could have included. So if you have any suggestions or don’t agree with any of these choices, leave us a comment below!

The GADA Watch – Go Anywhere, Do Anything Watch is a term that’s been popping up a little bit lately in both the press and across multiple forums. So it got us thinking, do people know what it is, do they have one themselves, and what are some great options if you’re looking for a watch that is truly Go Anywhere, Do Anything?

The Go Anywhere, Do Anything watch. Sounds like a myth, or maybe just a new term for the “One Watch Collection” which is more probable. But essentially, it’s what the name says – a watch that you can go anywhere with (and I mean anywhere) and do anything with it on your wrist.

With a GADA watch, it does need to be versatile and appropriate for many situations or occasions. For this reason, we’ve created a bit of a checklist in terms of what boxes a great GADA watch has to check off:

1. It has to be robust – At least 100m water resistance for any water related adventures, solid case construction and ideally on steel or rubber (leather isn’t great for lots of outdoor activities or climates).
2. It has to look good – This is a Go Anywhere, Do Anything watch don’t forget. So it needs to be at home on the wrist when wearing a suit for those more formal occasions, but equally (see point 1) be worn in casual settings and not look weird in hiking gear or a pair of board shorts.
3. It has to be highly legible – Again, see point 1, but a good GADA watch needs a dial that’s easy to read in the day, and at night. Be it at the beach, hiking in the mountains, out to dinner with friends or camping at 2am when you wonder “what that noise was outside my tent”!
4. It has be the right size – Now this should go without saying, but it’s probably no good having a behemoth on your wrist if you’re going from beach to the boardroom. So for the sake of this exercise, and keeping with the trends today, anything larger than 44mm is a no go, and event then, some 44mm are still too big for many people.
5. It has to be timeless – This is probably a slightly controversial last point, but if you’re going to have a GADA watch for a long while, then it probably needs to stand the test of time. After all, if it doesn’t and trends change in the watch world, which they frequently do, you’ll need to be buying a new GADA watch more frequently than you’d like!

So now that we’ve covered what a great GADA watch should be, let’s explore some options at different price points for a GADA watch should you be in the market for a watch that’s versatile and gets you out of trouble in any situation.

Grand Seiko SBGN027 GMT Quartz

Kicking off, the Grand Seiko SBGN027 GMT Quartz is a great value choice for a GADA watch. It’s got classic looks, reminiscent of a Rolex Explorer II, the GMT function and date for those that travel a lot, and a ridiculously accurate movement, the Calibre 9F86 which is accurate to +/- 10 seconds a year!

The 39mm case is only 12mm think, and has 200m WR with a screw down crown, so it’s robust and easy wearing, plus the black dial and lumed indices make it highly legible anywhere and anytime. Being a smaller sized sports watch, you could dress it up and hide under the cuff if needed.

Australian Recommended RRP: $4,900

Tudor Black Bay 58

Whilst there are a lot of BB58’s now in the range, we’ve chosen the classic BB58 OG with steel bracelet and black dial with the gilt markers.

This ticks all the boxes and for under $6k too. A 200m WR dive watch, looks great on the wrist from suits to the sand, it’s very legible given it’s a dive watch and at 39mm, it wears well on almost anyone and for any occasion. As the BB58 was designed based on the Tudor and Rolex Subs of old, it’s timeless and a modern classic. What more could you want?!

Australian Recommended RRP: $5,590

Omega Seamaster Diver 300

If the Omega Seamaster is good enough for James Bond to wear 24/7, then it stands to reason it should be the perfect GADA watch!

Again another diver (there’s a reason they are so popular in demand), we’ve chose the black dial variant with the black rubber strap as you can dress this up or down, and wear anywhere for anything. It’s as at home in the ocean as it is on the wrist playing Black Jack at the Casino, and with METAS certification, incredibly accurate and highly robust. It checks all the boxes.

Australian Recommended RRP: $8,350 (on rubber strap)

Breitling SuperOcean Heritage

The Breitling SuperOcean Heritage in 2-tone Rose Gold is a slightly different look. Not quite a diver, not quite a dress watch, it’s a nice happy medium that’s designed to take whatever you throw at it.

It’s a good looking watch, and the touch of the Rose Gold makes it perfect for more formal occasions. However on the rubber strap with a push button folding clasp and sliding micro adjust and with 200m WR and screw down crown it’s anything but a formal watch! It wears well at 42mm and on most wrists under the cuff if it isn’t too tight.

Australian Recommended RRP: $9,090

IWC Pilot Chronograph 41

For something a little different, the IWC Pilot’s Chrono 41 is a good option, due to it’s robustness being a pilot watch and the new 100m WR. Combine this with the added day, date and timing functions, the IWC Pilot Chronograph is highly versatile and at 41mm, wears very well.

This particular version is on leather, but with the IWC EasX-CHANGE system, swap this to the blue rubber and you’ve got a great GADA watch option

Australian Recommended RRP: $11,400

You may have noticed we’ve stayed away from Rolex. Most people gravitate towards the Submariner or Explorer for a GADA watch (with good reason) and we felt they were too obvious to include in this article, and lets face it, there’s a wide world of watches out there and whilst we’ve picked 5 GADA watches we think are great options, there’s plenty more we just can’t cover in one article.

Do you agree with these choices? Do you have a great GADA watch? Let us know in the comments section below!

With less than a week to go until the watch world descends on Geneva, Breitling have dropped a revised line up of their Top Time collection, with new beefed up specs and adding a new model to the muscle car line up – the Ford Thunderbird, to sit alongside the Mustang, Cobra and Corvette. Watch Advice, along with with a handful of passionate collectors had the pleasure of getting under the hood of the new models (yes there will be many car references in this article, so brace yourself!), and testing them out in person.

The Top Time collection was released in 2021 with three models – the Mustang, Corvette and Cobra. This year, Breitling have introduced the Ford Thunderbird to the collection, and alongside this, dropped a new engine into them with the new in house calibre B01 movement. This has given the collection more power, now at 70 hours, a 100m / 10bar water resistance rating and new 5 year warranty. To top that off, as with all Breitling mechanical models, it’s COSC certified, plus all Breitling manufactured movements must also pass a gruelling series of in-house shock, winding, and pusher tests meaning you can be sure of it’s accuracy and reliability.

The new Ford Thunderbird model sits on an eye catching red strap, which nicely contrasts and offsets the clean white dial drawing the eye to the teal Thunderbird logo and red chronograph hands. Seeing this in person really gives you a feel for how this model looks on the wrist, and will turn heads with its colour combination. The perforated red racing strap also gives it that nostalgic feel, and one can imagine slipping on a pair of driving gloves, and heading down the PCH in Southern California in the 60’s, driving your ’55 T-Bird, top down and the roar of the V8 engine cutting through the air.

The collection have been slimmed down slightly, now in 41mm cases, and they wear fairly true to form, and will suit most wrist sizes. Given when Breitling released the original Top Time in the 60’s, it was designed to be a unisex watch, aimed at the fashionistas and trend setters of the time who could admire it and associate it with the hottest cars of the era. Unless you have unusually small or large wrists, I feel that these will suit and wear with ease.

The original three Top Time variants, now with some serious engine power

Should you not want to have the leather strap, and prefer a steel set of wheels, then all variants can be optioned with the factory stainless steel mesh bracelet with a butterfly clasp for about AUD $600 more. Depending on which collaboration you choose, you will be happy with either the leather or steel, but if you’re like me, then grab it on steel, and then add the matching Breitling strap so you can change the looks when you feel like it. Make sure you get the strap change tool however, as these are the traditional spring bar kind, not quick change that are becoming the standard on other brands.

All in all, these are great looking watches, and have some great history in 1950s and 1960s motoring. And even if you’re not a US automotive buff, these are still worth some strong consideration – there should be a colourway that suits everyone, and each are a talking point in their own right!

Reference: Ford Thunderbird (AB01766A1A1X1 or AB01766A1A1A1) / Ford Mustang (AB01762A1L1X1 or AB01762A1L1A1) / Chevrolet Corvette (AB01761A1K1X1 or AB01761A1K1A1) / Shelby Cobra (AB01763A1C1X1 or AB01763A1C1A1)

Specification:

• Case: Stainless steel, screw down crown and pump style pushers
• Size: 41mm, 13.8mm thick and 50.36mm lug to lug
• Calibre: Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, Automatic Chronograph with bidirectional rotor, operating at 28,800VPH/4Hz
• Power reserve: 70hrs
• Water resistance: 10 bar (100 meters)
• Crystal: Cambered sapphire, glare-proofed on both sides
• Case back: Screwed steel, sapphire crystal
• Strap/bracelet: Thunderbird – Red calfskin leather strap, Mustang and Cobra – Brown calfskin leather strap, Corvette – Black calfskin leather strap all with folding clasp. Alternative across all: stainless-steel mesh bracelet with a butterfly clasp

Availability: Available now from all authorised dealers, Breitling Boutiques or online from breitling.com

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: $10, 890 (Leather) or $11,490 (Steel)

Watches are one of those things that can be just a nice accessory that tells the time, or can be an all consuming passion for life (Have a guess which end of the spectrum I’m on…) If you fall somewhere near the latter, or lets face it, if it’s more than just a passing hobby, then I would say, most people will have a grail watch, the one that they are lusting after. And for whatever reason you’re not able to get it – be it way out of our price range, or a rare or hard to get watch, or simply, you just can’t justify spending the time or money, it sits there in the back of your mind calling your name.

Being an active member of many watch forums here in Australia and overseas, it is interesting what people classify as a grail, which speaks to the range of collectors out there in this horological hobby. For some, it’s the OMEGA Seamaster Professional Diver, for others, maybe a Zenith of sorts (I’ve had a few people comment on my Defy Skyline as their grail) and for others, the unobtanium models at retail, like the Rolex Pepsi Meteorite Dial (one of my close watch aficionado friends’ grail piece), or an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which lets face it, unless you’ve got money to burn on the secondary market, or know someone with an ‘in’ at AP, then you’ll be waiting a while!

Some grails that have been floated around some of the online forums

But what makes a “grail’ watch? The answer to this is like asking, “how long is a piece of string?”, but lets have a go anyway. From my perspective, it’s all about where you are in your collecting journey, what exposure to certain brands you have, education about watches and thrown into the mix, most probably your means to afford different watches at different price points. When I think back over the years, I’ve had many Grail Watches I’ve wanted, and being into watches since I was young, those pieces have differed quite a lot.

When I was 15, the watch I loved most was the OMEGA Seamaster that Pierce Brosnan wore in GoldenEye, and for those that are interested in my previous article to find out more about OMEGA’s association with Bond, you can read all about it here. This stayed my grail watch until I actually was able to buy it, or the more modern version of it in about 2007 – only a mere 12 years later and it was the coolest, and most expensive watch I had owned to that point.

Moving through the years after that purchase, my collecting journey, like many others, has evolved as my income has risen slowly over the years, so the price points that we now talk about are much more. I’m also more educated in watches, so my appreciation for certain brands, movements, manufacturing quality and finishing is also a lot higher than what it was 20 years ago. I’ve moved through my journey, like many friends in this game have, and been exposed to a lot of great watches and brands, and also doing this job, many more for trial periods to test and photograph. During this time, post the OMEGA, I’ve had several grails, that I’ve been lucky enough to obtain.

In 2012, it was my Breitling Super Avenger Chronograph (a giant 48mm beast that never failed me in 8 years!) but eventually was way to big for my tastes so was moved on. In 2014 I was fortunate enough to obtain what I considered my ultimate Grail for many years, the Panerai Luminor PAM312 (older sibling of the current PAM1312) which, if you’re interested in how this came about, check it out here. I still have the Panerai today, almost 10 years later, and will always stay in the collection. I had lusted after a Rolex for any years, like many others have, and the Sea-Dweller became my next Grail watch, which I finally secured last year after a 3 year wait on the expression of interest list. If you missed my “Owners Perspective” on this, then I’d encourage you to have a read if you’re thinking about getting one.

Below, the grail journey up to now…

This brings us to today, and what’s my next grail piece? This is a tough question, as there are so many great pieces out there just waiting to be tried and worn. Do I yearn for a Rolex Daytona? Or, could I possibly get my hands on that AP Royal Oak Chronograph with blue Grande Tapisserie dial? This actually is my next Grail, however it’s slightly out of reach currently, so will most probably stay in dreamland for a while.

And this is a dilemma that faces many collectors out there. Once you’ve obtained your “Grail Watch” or maybe like in my case, a few, what do you do next? You hear watch collectors using the term “Exit Piece”, the one watch that will complete their collection, and thus their collecting journey for good. This is a great romantic notion, but I’m yet to meet a collector that has said this, and actually meant it, or done it. I’m sure there are a few out there, so please let me know if you’re one that’s successfully exited the hobby, going out on high with your Holy Grail!

This however, is all part of the fun of collecting watches, or anything for that matter. There will always be that one piece, that one item that is coveted by collectors that is just out of reach, and a goal to work towards. And once obtained, most likely another goal just around the corner to strive for. For those precious few out there that have managed to achieve their Grail Watch and exit, then I take my hat off to you, as you are quite likely much more enlightened than I am, and have found peace within.

Stay tuned as over the next couple of weeks, I’ll cover off some not so obvious grail watches that you should definitely consider, and give you pause for thought in the Search Of The Holy (Watch) Grail Part 2.

Summer! The time to wind down, relax, and do the things that I love the most – heading to the beach, sitting at some nice cafe’s, and heading on holidays with the family. Oh, and taking copious amounts of watch pics along the way. I’ve selected some of my favourite pics from the summer that has just gone, ok, maybe a few from the start of the year as well, but hey, it’s all a bit of fun. Hope you enjoy!

Fun At The Beach

Blue watches always work well in and around water, and the Zenith Defy Skyline and Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Chronograph always take amazing shots when at the beach.

Lazing About

Summer is great for doing not not a lot at all, and I’ve been known to spend a few hours of a summer afternoon just lying in the hammock, reading a book and taking an obligatory watch shot! The Tudor Black Bay GMT is handy for knowing what tie zone it is when time doesn’t matter 😉

Surfs Up!

It’s no good going to the beach, or a tropical island for that fact and not jumping in the water. And with sports watches, and more so dive watches, that’s what they’re designed for, so jump in!

Coffees and Cafes

What better way to start a summer day than at the cafe, watching the world go by? Plus if you’re like me and can’t get going until you’ve had your morning caffeine hit, you understand!

Rockpool Fun

If you have young kids you’ll know that they love rock pools when they’re at the beach. Plus for a “Watch Dad”, these make great backdrops for photos. The Rolex Sea-Dweller in its element here.

Waterfalls

Waterfalls you ask? Why not?! Well, in my case, the first two is a waterfall by the pool at a resort in North Queensland, the third, torrential rain in Fiji. That counts right? Either way, it makes for great photos. Next time I’m out exploring real waterfalls, I’ll be sure to get pics…

So, there you have some of my favourite summer pics, and as we say goodbye to summer, and hello Autumn, I’m looking back at these and the memories they’ve helped me create, and also, remind me of what I was doing at the time with the family, as I’m quite often snapping these in the brief moments between having fun or spending some quality “me” time. I hoped you enjoyed them, and I look forward to what the cooler months bring!

1. Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 – RRP AUD 1050.00:

Why do we love this watch? This watch offers a lot for its price of AUD 1050.00. The case size of 40mm fits most wrists and comes in three honeycomb motif dial colours, white, black and blue (pictured above). Power reserve of 80 hours, which means this watch can be left alone over the weekend and come Monday, it will be ready to be worn without needing to wind it. The finishing of this watch is on par with some of the more expensive watches that cost ten times more. The single-link steel bracelet is comfortable to wear and produces an eye-catching shine. Tissot brought back an iconic 1970s design that will turn heads and is suitable for stylish dads with a busy lifestyle. Tissot offers two years international warranty on all of its watches. For more information, head over to Tissot.

2. Tudor Black Bay Pro – RRP from AUD 5010.00:

Released earlier in the year at Watches and Wonders, Black Bay Pro is an entirely new watch from the brand and became an instant hit among watch enthusiasts. The polished and satin-finished steel case (39mm in size) and riveted bracelet are made for everyday use. We like this watch for three reasons. 1. Great power reserve – at 70 hours, perfect for everyday use. 2. Dual timezone feature, which showcases two time zones simultaneously. 3. Rapid adjustment on the clasp, meaning on hot days, watch bracelet adjustment can be made on the go! Tudor Black Bay Pro is offered in three strap choices, a steel bracelet AUD 5430.00 (left), a Hybrid strap AUD 5010.00 (centre) and a Fabric strap AUD 5010.00 (right). Tudor offers five years warranty on all of their watches. Compact, sport and robust, this watch is great for adventurous dads. To find out more, head over to Tudor.

3. Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph 7741- RRP from AUD 5,695.00

Raymond Weil’s Freelancer collection was upgraded earlier in the year with the addition of Chronograph 7741. The latest improvements include a bigger case size of 43.5mm, a clean dial layout and a ceramic bezel with a tachymeter scale. The Tri-compax Chronograph is offered in a selection of dial configurations, and our favourite is the green (pictured above). Powered by the calibre RW5030, which generates a power reserve of 56hours and is showcased through an exhibition case-back. The freelancer 7741 combines classic and modern design cues to create a handsome timepiece suitable for a dad who loves his classics! Raymond Weil offers three years of international warranty on the freelancer models. For more information, visit Raymond Weil.

4. Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar- RRP from AUD 48,600.00:

First announced during 2022 Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar is one of the most beautifully executed perpetual calendars in the current market. The 42mm case (offered in steel and red gold) has a graduated blue lacquered dial with four counters that showcase the date, moon phase, date, month and year. This particular perpetual calendar does not need any manual adjustments on the counters till the year 2100.

Another feature we like in this model is the quick changing straps. You can change from a steel bracelet to a rubber strap within seconds. Powered by in-house calibre 868, which generates a power reserve of over 70 hours. Sporty and complicated, this watch is a perfect addition to a seasoned watch collector dad. Jaeger-LeCoultre offers eight years of warranty on all their watches. For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

5. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver – RRP AUD 9650.00

One of the most exciting releases from the brand in 2022 is the Aquaracer 1000 Super diver. Geared towards the professional divers, this timepiece is made for the deep waters. Grade 5 titanium case measuring 45mm and with a thickness of 15.75mm, the robust case is designed to withstand the pressures at 1000 meters below sea level, equipped with a helium valve to prevent damage upon decompression. The simple and highly legible dial comes alive at night. TAG Heuer teamed up with the swiss movement manufacturer to exclusively create the movement TH30-00 for the Superdiver, which produces a power reserve of 70 hours. The Superdiver comes with five years of international warranty. The Superdiver boasts sporty elegance and will be suitable for an adventurous and daring dad, particularly water lovers. For more information, visit TAG Heuer.

6. Breitling Navitimer B01 70th Anniversary – RRP from AUD 12090.00

Earlier this year, Breitling celebrated the 70th anniversary of the legendary Navitimer. With that, Breitling brought out their latest versions of the Navitimers. Offered in 46mm, 43mm and 41mm case sizes and vibrant dial choices, there is sure to be a model that will cater for every dad! Noticeable changes for the new Navitimers include the new in-house B01 movement with a power reserve of 70 hours (showcased on the caseback), the new AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association) wings logo replacing the old Breitling logo and new vibrant shades dials, notably the blue (pictured above) green and Copper. The watch can be worn with either bracelet or leather strap. A five-year warranty is offered on the in-house movement Breitling watches. The new Navitimer would be a great gift for the stylish and classy dad. For more information, visit Breitling.

7. Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date- RRP from AUD 4,470.00

Montblanc entered the diver watch category earlier in the year with their first ever diver – The 1858 Iced sea Automatic Date. Starting price of AUD 4470.00 for the 41mm steel case on the rubber strap is a great value for the price point. Three things we like about the new dive watch. 1. Quick change strap change system with fine adjustment system 2. The dial was inspired by the glaciers of the Montblanc massif and produced in an ancestral technique called “gratté-boisé”. 3. Unidirectional bi-colour Ceramic bezel that matches the dial. 1858 Iced sea Automatic date is offered in three dial variations, black, green and blue (pictured). Stylish from every angle, Montblanc’s first-ever diver watch is a great addition to any dad’s watch collection or his first-ever swiss watch. Montblanc offers two years of international warranty on all their watches. For more information, head over to Montblanc.

While retaining this classic look, a modern update of a bright colour palette was added, making the new SuperOcean more than just another dive watch. 

The new collection was unveiled during the Wheels & Waves surf-and-motorcycle festival in Biarritz. Breitling CEO Georges Kern was present at the festival, where he briefly commented on this new collection, stating that “there’s a certain sameness to the look of most dive watches, but the Slow Motion always stood out from the crowd. We’re so pleased to introduce our modern take on this classic, the all-new Superocean.”

The collection comes available in four case sizes; 46mm, 44mm, 42mm, and 36mm (ladies’ watch). Along with the four different case sizes, the models are also presented in three case metals; steel, steel-gold, and bronze. Besides the bronze versions of the SuperOcean, all case sizes come with either a sporty rubber strap or a new three-row metal bracelet option. All models are rated to a depth of 300m (1000ft) and feature broad hour indices while being coated in SuperlumiNova for exceptional readability. The models also come with a scratchproof ceramic-inlay bezel which means it’ll never fade or wear out. The bezel on the 46mm is a bi-direction with a patented lock. On all other case sizes, the bezel is uni-directional. 

Breitling has given this new SuperOcean collection the in-house calibre 17 movements. This is a self-winding movement that gives out a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. 

The SuperOcean Automatic 46mm comes in either a black dial with a black bezel or a blue dial with a matching blue bezel. The strap options available are black rubber or stainless steel bracelet. 

The 44mm models in this collection have a variety of dial colour options, which include a black dial with a black bezel, a navy blue dial with a black bezel, a turquoise dial with a black bezel, or a green dial with a green bezel. As standard, the black dial comes with stainless steel bracelet, a blue dial with a matching blue rubber strap, a turquoise dial with a black rubber strap, and lastly green dial with a matching green rubber strap. 

For the 44mm models, a fifth model is also available; the bronze version. This model comes with a brown dial and black bezel, with a matching brown rubber strap. This version certainly sets the tone for aesthetics, as it features a bronze inlay on the dial to match the case nicely. 

The 42mm models come in six different versions. Firstly we get the standard black dial and black bezel, blue dial and blue bezel, and a white dial variation with a blue bezel. The white dial is offered in a stainless steel bracelet, while the blue dial comes with a blue rubber strap and a black dial with a matching black rubber strap. 

The fourth version of the 42mm model is a black dial variant. However, while the case is made from stainless steel, the bezel is made from 18k red gold. To match the bezel, the hour indices and hands are done in red gold as well. 

Another of the 42mm versions is the bronze model. This watch features a green dial and black bezel with a matching bronze dial inlay to the case. 

The last of the 42mm variants is the Kelly Slater Limited Edition. This is the only watch for men in this new SuperOcean collection to feature an orange dial. The watch also comes with a black bezel and a green rubber strap to make it arguably the most colourful watch in the collection. 

To round up the SuperOcean collection are the 36mm ladies’ watches. The ladies get three dial colour variants, which include white, turquoise, and orange. All three models have a bezel insert that matches the stainless steel case nicely. The straps on offer are white rubber, stainless steel, and orange rubber to match nicely with the respective dial colours. Our favourite out of the three models is the turquoise dial on the stainless steel bracelet, as it gives a touch of playfulness to what is an elegant timepiece. 

Australian Recommended Retail Price: Starts from 6,290 AUD

Availability: Available from July 2022

We all know about Omega’s Speedmaster and the legacy it has with the first watch being on the moon, but there was another watch that actually went into space first, a timepiece by the famed Swiss brand Breitling. Breitling’s vast experience in pilot watches helped them rise to the top of the pack when it came time to pick a brand for the space mission. On the 24th of May 1962, during the Mercury-Atlas 7 mission, Breitling was able to claim the title of “first Swiss wristwatch in space”, as the astronaut Scott Carpenter orbited the Earth three times while he wore the Navitimer Cosmonaute model.

Carpenter was very familiar with Breitling’s aviator models during his flight days, so he personally asked for the Navitimer Cosmonaute. The Navitimer Cosmonaute is a variation of the Aviator timepiece, with a 24-hour dial included distinguishing day from night in space. 

Today marks the 60th anniversary of the famous Mercury-Atlas 7 mission, and to mark this special occasion for the brand Breitling has not only unveiled Carpenter’s original Navitimer Cosmonaute but also released a special modern-day version of the timepiece as well. Breitling is releasing the 2022 Navitimer Cosmonaute in a special limited number, 362. The three represent the number of circumnavigations of the Earth and sixty-two referencing the year 1962 in which the mission took place. 

Design:

The Navitimer Cosmonaute carries all the iconic details that make the Navitimer what it is. From the circular slide rule for the mathematical calculations to the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association “wings” logo to the panda dial design with contrasting tri sub-dials. The main ingredient that separates the Cosmonaute from other Navitimers is the 24-hour time. A new movement, the Breitling Manufacture Caliber B02 was designed specifically to carry the 24-hour time. 

This latest version of the Cosmonaute is as faithful to the original as it can be. Looks and design-wise the new Cosmonaute replicates the original with its all-black dial and strap choices of black alligator strap and seven-row stainless steel bracelet. The main difference comes in the use of materials, which now for the 41mm case features a platinum bezel. The timepiece has beige coloured superluminova which besides the touch of red on the bezel inscriptions, adds more colour to the monochrome dial. 

Movement:

As mentioned earlier, the movement inside is the Breitling Manufacture Caliber B02 movement. This is a mechanical manual (hand) wound movement that operates at a frequency of 28,800 VpH (4hz). This COSC-certified movement also gives out a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. A difference between the original 1962 Cosmonaute and this 2022 edition is the case back. Now with an open sapphire crystal caseback, a glimpse into the B02 movement is shown. The movement decorations feature special bridge engravings to mark the 60th anniversary. Engravings such as “Carpenter”, “Aurora 7”, “3 orbits around the Earth”, and “Mercury 7”. 

This latest edition of the Cosmonaute pays homage to the original 1962 timepiece while giving it a very modern update. A true testament to Breitlings aviation watches, the Cosmonaute carries with it a part of watch history that not a lot can boast about. With the Carpenter’s Cosmonaute being named the “first Swiss wristwatch in space”, the model available to the public shortly after kept the same design and specs, so that collectors can be a part of the ground-breaking history. 

Georges Kern, Breitling CEO is delighted with this latest creation, in celebration of the Space mission’s 60th anniversary as he states “When we introduced the redesigned Navitimer earlier this year, a question on everybody’s lips was, ‘What about the Cosmonaute?’ Today, I’m thrilled to finally announce two Cosmonaute reveals: the first-ever public viewing of the watch Scott Carpenter wore into space and a 60th-anniversary limited-edition timepiece that pays tribute to its history-making forerunner.”

Reference: PB02301A1B1A1

Australian Recommended Retail Price: 14,900.00 AUD (Bracelet), 14,400.00 AUD (Leather strap with folding clasp)

Availability: Available now, Limited edition to 362 pieces worldwide

Willy Breitling saw this as an opportunity to create something special with Breitling, a timepiece that would capture the essence and joy of this sub-culture. The resulting watch was the Breitling Top Time, an unconventional chronograph model that was designed very much so for the “active and young professional”.

Now, Breitling is bringing back what inspired the very first Top Time model to create a special piece in collaboration with a motorcycle brand filled with history. 120 years of history, in fact, Triumph has been using their traditional craftsmanship methods along with contemporary design to create a modern version of their classic motorcycles. A process of creation that Breitling can proudly stand behind. 

Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling, proudly celebrates this collaboration with Triumph by stating that “Triumph’s heritage and modern-retro aesthetic are just two of the many things we have in common. Their blending of tradition with technology is completely in sync with what we do.”

Design:

For the debut collaboration between the two brands, Breitling will release a Top Time Triumph model which has a brushed finish in the “Zorro dial” design that Top Time models are iconically known for. Triumph at the same time will release 270 co=branded motorcycles named “the Speed Twin Breitling Limited Edition”. The buyers of this limited-edition motorcycle will have the unique opportunity to buy a special owner’s version of the Top Time Triumph released by Breitling. The owner’s version of the Top Time Triumph will come with a sun-ray dial and feature the individual number of the bike purchased engraved on the case back. For this to be valid, however, orders for the owner’s version of the Top Time Triumph must be placed before August 22, 2022. 

The Breitling X Triumph Top Time standard edition comes in a 41mm stainless steel case. The beauty of the model lies in the dial where a stunning ice blue with a special brush finish technique has been done. The icy blue colour for the dial comes from two major references, firstly a blue Triumph Thunderbird 6T from 1951 and a very rare blue-dialed Breitling Top Time Ref. 815 models from the 1970s. 

The dial features both brand’s logos, with Breitlings sitting at 12 o’clock and Triumph’s at 6 o’clock. The Zorro Dial is created using two black sub-counters at 3 o’clock (30-minute) and 9 o’clock (1/4th of a second). Against the icy blue dial, this provides a great contrasting effect, which is further enhanced by the black hour indices on the dial. 

Movement:

The movement used for this standard and special owners only limited edition model is the Breitling Caliber 23. The Breitling Caliber 23 movement operates at a frequency of 28, 800 VpH (4hz) and can give out a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The case back of this timepiece is closed, however, on the back, we get a beautiful detailed etched sketch of the Triumph’s parallel-twin engine. 

Triumph’s CEO Nick Bloor loves this latest collaboration too, as he states “this collaboration is born out of a shared philosophy of bold and original design. The Top Time Triumph brings that uncompromising style and craftsmanship together.”Suitable for both females and males, this new collaboration timepiece between Breitling and Triumph is a mush have for either fan of the brand. Celebrating the long history of both brands, the Top Time Triumph is a sporty piece with a timeless design and a proven modern movement. 

Reference: A23311121C1X1

Australian Retail Price: $7,590.00

Availability: Available now.

It’s not often you get a watch for a review and fall in love with it straight away! Well, for me this was the case with the new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph. Released a day earlier than the Watches of Wonders in 2021, Duograph is a part of the Premier heritage line. Originally released in 1943, Duograph is a spilt second complication that pays tribute to three generations of inventors – Léon, Gaston & Willy Breitling. Breitling used the term ‘Duograph’ in 1940 which refer to the complication “Chronograph Rattrappante”.

Design:

Breitling Duograph is offered in stainless steel or an 18K Red Gold case. The case size is 42mm with a thickness of 15.3mm and lug to lug measurement of 50mm. The variant we are reviewing today is the stainless steel model with the sunray blue dial. 

Duograph had a fixed bezel and the Cambered sapphire (glareproofed both sides) acts as a bezel on its own. This Sapphire crystal top glass has a thickness of 3mm which adds to the overall thickness of 15.3mm. 

The Duograph crown is a non-screw-locked that operates with two gaskets with one purpose – just to adjust the time. Crown also has the integrated push-piece which is used for the split-second chronograph. 

Looking at the dial of the Duograph, what stands out the most, is the vintage-inspired hands and Arabic numerals sitting against the sunburst blue dial. The dial has two sub-dials placed at 3 and 9 o’clock showing the continuous running seconds (for timekeeping) and minutes elapsed (for the split-second chronograph) respectively. Other design cues that are worth noting are the grooves on both sides of the case, which adds a bit of character to the casing rather than being just plain. 

Movement:

The beating heart of the Duograph is a Breitling manufacture B15 manual wound movement. This COSC-Certified movement is based on the in-house designed B01 movement, which consists of 27 components, beating at 28,200 V.P.H and producing a power output of 70 hours. This B15 movement powers the time only function with the colour wheel split-second chronograph. 

Split-second chronographs are complicated movements in which in terms of manufacturing difficulty are on par with the tourbillons and minute repeaters. The idea of the split-second chronograph is to measure two elapsed times at once (indication of intermediate and split time), which showcases via two hands on the central chronograph. This specific B15 movement has two patents, one to simplify the mechanism and the other to improve accuracy. 

Turning the watch over, I got to enjoy the beautifully laid out movement on the caseback. Being a manual wound watch, there is no oscillating weight which means there is a sufficient amount of real estate to show off the B15 movement. 

On the wrist:

With dimensions of 42mm case size, 15.3mm case thickness and 50mm lug to lug, one might think that this watch is too big for an average-sized wrist. But let me tell you that on a 16.5cm (6.5inch) wrist, the 42mm case sits just right, even though with a 50mm lug to lug measurement, the curved lugs hug the wrist perfectly. 

My recommendation is to try one out, rather than make a decision based on the measurements. Who knows, you might be pleasantly surprised how well it wears on the wrist, despite many having some hate on the thickness of the watch.

I enjoyed looking at the applied Arabic numerals and vintage-inspired hands and how they reflect the light beautifully. To me, it didn’t feel like a 42mm watch. I have a Rolex Sky-Dweller which is also a 42mm case size and compared to the Sky-Dweller the Duograph looks smaller on the wrist. This is due to the fixed bezel and Cambered sapphire acting as a bezel. 

There are two things that bothered me with the Duograph. First, the cutout Arabic numerals on 2,4,8 and 10 o’clock. If Breitling decided to place small hour batons in lieu of cutout numerals, I think this would have looked much better. But of course, it’s my personal preference, one might actually like this layout as is. The second was, how I couldn’t see the tachymeter looking at the dial directly. I could only see the bottom half of the lettering and numerals. To see the tachymeter properly, I had to tilt the watch slightly. This is due to the curved shape of the sapphire crystal. To be honest, these are not deal-breakers, rather personal preferences and being too picky!  

I had the watch for almost a month and had the opportunity to wear this for a few different occasions. Being a sporty dress watch, one will tend to wear this to the office and formal/semi-formal events and while the watch may struggle to get under the shirt cuff due to its thickness, I had no issues wearing this everywhere else. Watch weighs just under 120grams (watch head weighing in just 97.7grams) and combine this with a 100m of water resistance, this watch can go to places. Mind you, we don’t recommend wearing this watch jumping into the pool. While the shiny curved alligator leather strap looks great with the watch, it won’t handle water very well. 

Operating the watch on the wrist was super easy, the non-screw-locked crown can be easily pulled out to adjust the time. To operate the split-second chronograph simply push the pusher at 2 o’clock. Once started, to use the split-second function simply push the pusher (sticking out of the crown at 3 o’clock). This pusher at 3 o’clock has two functions, to start the split-second chronograph and to reset. It’s worth noting that once the split-second chronograph is running pushing the pusher at 4 o’clock don’t reset the Split-second function, you have to push the pusher at 3 o’clock to reset. It sounds complicated but it’s super easy to use, just wait till you have a go at it!

Final thoughts:

Overall, the Duograph is beautifully designed with details detailing back to the 1940s. Well thought out functionality having integrated the split-second pusher to the crown as opposed to being placed at 10 o’clock. Priced at 13,390 AUD, I think it is a great price for a split-second chronograph. I can’t think of another brand producing this type of mechanism at this price point, so it’s a win for Breitling. As of late, Breitling is doing all the right things producing great timepieces and the addition of Duograph to the premier range balances off the collection perfectly. 

Reference: AB1510171C1P1

Specification:

• Case: 42 mm, Lug-Lug 50mm and thickness 15.3mm
• Case Material: Stainless Steel
• Dial: Blue
• Crystal: Cambered Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
• Water resistance: 100 meters
• Movement: Breitling B15
• Power reserve: 70 Hours
• Strap: Curved Gold brown Alligator leather strap, Stainless Steel Folding Clasp

Australian Retail Pricing : $13,990.00 AUD

Availability: Available now