Being in the watch world is a funny thing. We covert this little machine that runs on our wrist and tells the time, quite often spending up to tens of thousands of dollars on any given piece. People can be precious about their opinions and at times, the watch world can be snobby with people buying pieces purely to show off or as a status symbol. So it’s nice that every two years, some of the greatest brands in the world get together to show off their unique pieces at Christie’s auctions for the purpose of charity.

Whilst it’s not lost on us that many brands participate to show off their haute horology and technical skills to pave the way for future commercial pieces, the fact still remains that the proceeds of each lot go to a worthy cause: Supporting Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy – a disease affecting 1 in 3500 boys that progressively weakens all their muscles, including the heart, the loss of the ability to walk and global autonomy as they get older. This year, Only Watch is back for 2023 and with 62 Lots, we should see it raise a significant amount for the charity. 2021’s Only Watch raised CHF 30,000,000 (Just over AUD $50,000,000), so here’s hoping the watch world and collectors can eclipse that figure this year.

The Watch Advice team has looked over each and every Lot offered at this year’s Only Watch to come up with the ten most unique pieces from the brands. Our criteria were simple; pick the pieces that we felt were either totally unique or something out of the box for that brand. Some brands do small things like change a dial colour or use a different case material for a standard production watch, so we have overlooked these and gone for those pieces where the brands have pushed themselves. We’ve started at the start, by Lot Number, so without further ado, here are our first 5 top 10 watches…

LOT 7 – BALTIC EXPERIMENTS – PREMIER QUANTIÈME PERPÉTUEL

Why We Love It

Baltic is known for its value proposition and makes good-looking, reliable, vintage-inspired watches with most of its pieces coming in under about AUD $2,000. So when we saw that Baltic has done a Perpetual Calendar and in purple no less, it stood out from the crowd!

At 37mm and only 9.8mm thick (add an extra 1mm or so for the domed crystal) it’s a good sized watch and under Baltic’s new fine watchmaking studio, Baltic Experiments, has an in house perpetual module on the Vaucher VMF 5401 Micro-rotor extra-slim movement that took 2 years to research and develop. Complete with 50hrs power reserve, moon phase accurate to 122 years and 30m water resistance, it’s a watch that we think is worthy of Only Watch and showcases Baltic doing some very cool things with their brand.

Full details: Only Watch – Baltic

LOT 9 – BELL & ROSS BR03 CYBER RAINBOW

Why We Love It

Bell & Ross are not known for their out there watches. Being a brand whose heritage is rooted in aviation, designing watches for purpose and legibility, their Only Watch entry this year took us by surprise. They have completely reinvented their BR03 series and given their Cyber Rainbow a fully skeletonised 3D dial and oscillating weight.

Bell & Ross have meticulously applied varnished pieces to the DLC titanium case, and to give the piece continuity, soft colour material to the rubber strap as well. This look is also on the rotor and they’ve then filled the pockets of the skeletonised dial with the same coloured varnish. The overall look is something you might see coming from Hublot, so it’s definitely worthy of Only Watch 2023.

Full Details: Only Watch – Bell & Ross

LOT 15 – BULGARI OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON MARBLE

Why We Love It

Bulgari is known for doing some great watches and pushing the boundaries, especially with the Octo Finissimo range creating some of the world’s thinnest watches. But this one is made of Marble… A marble watch less than 7mm thick and with a Tourbillon just to top it off! The craftsmanship that has gone into this is incredible, and when you think the marble layer used is between 0.4mm and 0.6mm thin, you can start to see why we chose this.

They’ve layered Verde di Alpi green marble from the Alps between Italy and Switzerland on top of the DLC treated Titanium case and bracelet and offset this with stunning gold hands and indices. Outside of the crazy green aesthetic Bulgari has given this piece their BVL 268: The World’s thinnest manual movement with flying tourbillon and special ball bearing system. All in all, 800 hours of work, or just over 14 weeks working 8 hours a day/7 days a week went into this piece.

Full Details: Only Watch – Bulgari

LOT 19 – CZAPEK PLACE VENDÔME COMPLICITÉ – COURAGE EVERY SECOND

Why We Love It

The Czapek Place Vendome Complicite – Courage Every Second stood out to us due to the combination of the Only Watch colours blended with the dial complexity of the dual escapements and differential on display on the open worked dial. Whilst not technically majorly different from their current Place Vendome collection, what sets this part is the combination of elements from the Quai de Burges collection with the Place Vendome Collection.

Czapek deliver great works of art normally and this piece is no exception. The star is the dial with the Champlevé enamel ring created in collaboration with Donzé Cadrans and the circular satin-polished brass réhaut with Czapek’s Only Watch “Courage every second” signature framing the Czapek Calibre 8 on show, including the two sapphire glass bridges. Something tells us that it will fetch more the the CHF 80,000 – CHF 100,000 estimate.

Full Details: Only Watch – Czapek

LOT 23 – FREDERIQUE CONSTANT x CHRISTIAAN VAN DER KLAAUW TOURBILLON PLANETARIUM

Why We Love It

Frederique Constant isn’t a name you usually associate with high horology. Sitting in the lower-end luxury segment, Frederique Constant is, in its own words, “high-quality watches at a sensible price”. This is anything but! Frederique Constant has teamed up with Christiaan Van Der Klaauw to produce the world’s most miniature planetarium and added an Adventurine dial with a Tourbillon at 6 o’clock.

All this is housed in a respectable 42mm Platinum case, and the hands and indices are all diamond cut and hand finished to add to the quality. This piece is a combination of firsts for both brands and whilst typically reasonably priced, the estimated CHF 110,000 is anything but. However, for a 14mm thick Tourbillon with planetarium and day/date counter, maybe it is?!

Full Details: Only Watch – Frederique Constant X Christiaan Van Der Klaauw

LOT 29 – HERMES ARCEAU LE TEMPS VOYAGEUR

Why We Love It

Hermes has its roots in leather goods and fashion, but in recent years has started to really make strides in its watchmaking division. Whilst you wouldn’t say Hermes was cutting edge, some designs, like the H08, are more modern than others, but their Arceau collection is on the more subdued side. This is why when we saw their Only Watch entry, the Arceau le Temps Voyager, we were slightly taken back.

There’s a lot to like about this watch. Its use of the Only Watch colours is playful but makes sense to accentuate the cities on the world time. The asymmetry of the dial is reminiscent of A. Lange & Sohne or Glashutte Original, and the small offset time dial plays tribute to the Arceau collection with the italicised numerals. The ‘travelling time’ mechanism was also developed exclusively for Hermes, and the 41mm DLC coated case with the asymmetrical Platinum lugs just add to its uniqueness.

Full Details: Only Watch – Hermes

So there you have it. The first half of our top 10 picks for this year’s Only Watch. Let us know if you agree or disagree and what your picks were in the comments section below. And stay tuned for Part 2 of our Top 10 Picks For Only Watch next week.

The Bulgari Aluminium was first released back in 1998, and upon its release, reimagined what a luxury timepiece should be. With the combination of aluminium and rubber combined with daring looks and colours, the timepiece was the very meaning of casual charm and elegance. To match the aesthetics and design, Bulgari updated the movement inside in 2020 to a reliable and sturdy mechanical self-winding movement.

The new Aluminium models have a colourful take with the new creations showcasing Bulgari’s watchmaking in modern times, appealing to human emotions. Three different variations of the new Aluminium model are being presented: A Chronograph model in black and white, a Capri limited edition in a three-hander and chronograph and lastly a Match Point limited edition in green and black.

Bulgari’s Aluminium chronograph models are a take on the classic black-and-white editions. The models come in a 41mm case which is an increase from the previous versions’ 40mm case size. The chronograph model has been completely reimagined, with the brand now using aerospace-grade 6028-aluminium allow along with FKM rubber (the most durable rubber in watchmaking). Bulgari has given the chronograph models a new calibre movement, the calibre B381 with a power reserve of 42 hours.

The Blue Capri edition is a reference to the beauty of Italy and the fascinating Tyrrhenian Sea. The story of Capri is one of beautiful waters, glamour and fashion and the luxury jet-set lifestyle. This characteristic lifestyle is what the new Bulgari Alumnium edition showcases, while also referring back to the brand’s Italian roots. These limited edition Aluminium models come with an evanescent Tyrrhenian blue dial in a 40mm aluminium case with a case back that has an engraving of Capri Faraglioni. The Capri chronograph comes with a calibre B130 movement, while the three-hander Capri Solotempo comes with the calibre B77 automatic movement.

The last of the Bulgari Aluminium variations is the Match Point edition. This stylish timepiece is a nod to tennis enthusiasts around the world. Bulgari has given the Match Point edition a recognisable green colour for the bezel and strap, in reference to the grass courts. Designed with a left-handed crown, the Match Point edition was made to be worn not only in the clubhouse but on the court as well. The case back comes personalised with an engraving of a tennis ball. The engine inside is a self-winding B77 calibre movement with a power reserve of 42 hours.

Colourful and aesthetic, the new Bulgari Aluminium timepieces are the luxury brand’s modern take on classic timepieces. The beautiful Capri limited edition models are a fantastic nod to not only the brand’s roots but the beauty of Capri, Italy.

Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph

Ref: 103722 (White), 103868 (Black)

The 41mm chronograph models come in either white dial with black counters (panda dial) or full black dial. The hour and minute hands have SuperLumi-Nova while the white chronograph seconds hand has a red tip.

A rubber strap is offered as a standard choice with aluminium links and an aluminium pink buckle.

Bulgari Aluminium Capri Solotempo

Ref: 103815

This 40mm Capri Solotempo version comes with a beautiful blue gradient dial reminiscent of the stunning waters surrounding Capri, Italy. The blue dial is accompanied by dark blue indexes and dark blue hands that are coated with SuperLumi-Nova. The silver second’s hand comes with a yellow tip.

Limited Edition model of 1000 pieces.

Bulgari Aluminium Capri Chronograph

Ref: 103844

The 40mm Bulgari Aluminium Capri Chronograph takes the Solotempo look and gives it a sportier design. With the same dial colour and gradient finish as the Solotempo, the Capri Chronograph comes with blue sub-counters at 3,6, and 9 o’clock. The hands of the sub-counters are in yellow, to match the yellow tip of the chronograph seconds hand. Both the Solotempo and Capri Chronograph are offered in blue rubber straps.

Limited Edition model of 1000 Pieces

Bulgari Aluminium Match Point Edition

Ref: 103854

The 40mm Bulgari Aluminium Match Point Edition is presented in a beautiful green bezel/strap and white dial combination. The hour indices and hands are done in green as well to match the rest of the watch. The watch is offered in either a green rubber strap or a green Velcro strap.

Limited Edition model of 800 pieces.

Reference: 103722 (White), 103868 (Black) (Chronograph)

Specification

• Case: 41mm
• Case Material: Aluminium, titanium case back with DLC coating. Rubber Bezel.
• Dial: White or Black
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.
• Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
• Movement: Calibre B381
• Power reserve: 42 hours
• Strap: Black Rubber with aluminium links and aluminium pin buckle.

Availability: TBA

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: TBA.

Reference: 103815 (Aluminium Capri Solotempo)

Specification

• Case: 40mm
• Case Material: Aluminium, titanium case back with DLC coating. Rubber Bezel.
• Dial: Blue gradient dial
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.
• Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
• Movement: Calibre B77
• Power reserve: 42 hours
• Strap: Blue Rubber with aluminium links and aluminium pin buckle.

Availability: May 2023. Bulgari E-Commerce or select retail partners.

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: $ 4,960

Reference: 103844 (Aluminium Capri Chronograph)

Specification

• Case: 40mm
• Case Material: Aluminium, titanium case back with DLC coating. Rubber Bezel.
• Dial: Blue gradient dial
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.
• Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
• Movement: Calibre B130
• Power reserve: 42 hours
• Strap: Blue Rubber with aluminium links and aluminium pin buckle.

Availability: May 2023. Bulgari E-Commerce or select retail partners.

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: $ 7,150

Reference: 103854 (Match Point Edition)

Specification

• Case: 40mm
• Case Material: Aluminium, titanium case back with DLC coating. Rubber Bezel.
• Dial: White or Black
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.
• Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
• Movement: Calibre B77
• Power reserve: 42 hours
• Strap: Green Rubber with aluminium links and aluminium pin buckle or green Velcro strap.

Availability: TBA

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: TBA.

Worthy of the Queen of the Nile herself, the Serpenti Misteriosi Cleopatra is the latest chapter in Bvlgari’s love affair with the iconic serpent, brought to life with an intense passion for gloriously bold combinations of coloured gemstones and a touch of majestic irreverence. Part of a new chapter in Bvlgari’s Colour Treasures series, this High-Jewellery, one-of-a-kind cuff watch showcases the Roman jewellery house’s expertise in gemstones, with a magnificently opulent and eye-catching new skin revealing a precious surprise: a diamond-set dial, hidden behind a faceted hexagonal see-through rubellite of over 5 carats. Only Bvlgari, the Master of Colour, could create such a harmony of brilliant gemstones in a new landmark watch that proudly joins the Colour Treasures series of spectacular jewellery-watch creations. With the arrival of the Serpenti Misteriosi Cleopatra, Bvlgari reaffirms its reputation as the Roman Jeweller of Time as it once again raises the bar in terms of both design and exquisite craftsmanship.

A Magneti Metamorphosis

The Serpenti Mistiriosi Cleopatra cuff is an abstract representation of the snake, the animal has wound its way through Bvlgari’s rich design heritage, appearing in many different and alluring guises. The snake is believed to have talismanic powers and is an emblem of wisdom, rebirth, and vitality. Its irresistible style is reminiscent of the cuff bracelets worn by the powerful rulers of Ancient Egypt, and of Cleopatra herself. Bvlgari has attracted some of the most powerful women of our times, and in 1962 Elizabeth Taylor was photographed at the Cinecittà Studios in Rome, wearing an exquisite gold Serpenti bracelet-watch while on the set of the film Cleopatra. Taylor, known for her love of jewellery, was seduced by the charm and symbolism of the Bvlgari Serpenti in gold and diamonds, with gleaming emerald eyes. The black and white photograph of the most famous actress of the moment wearing the iconic Serpenti bracelet captured the world’s imagination and indelibly linked the Roman Jeweller with legendary Divas.

A Contemporary Take

The Serpenti is a flexible cuff with a diamond-set dial, elegantly concealed beneath a faceted rubellite. The smooth surface gemstones are set in a away which represents snakes scales. The choice of a rainbow of nine vivid gemstones surrounded by snow-set diamonds offers a unique High-Jewellery watch stamped with Bvlgari’s inimitable confidence, executed with the highest standards of high-jewellery craftsmanship.

Bvlgari has used 9 different gemstones along with 4,000 snow set-diamonds. Setting the gemstones alone took more than 470 hours of meticulous work, with each of the six-sided gems custom cut to fit the design, sacrificing up to two-thirds of their volume to achieve the perfect clarity, brilliance and saturation of colour. Meanwhile, the dial is entirely set with diamonds and covered with a facetted hexagonal transparent rubellite, originally measuring nearly 10 carats. Bvlgari’s highly skilled jewellery designers worked hand in hand with the gemmology team to achieve the intense vibrancy of colour displayed by the nine different gemstones: pairs of faceted hexagonal amethysts and citrines, an aquamarine, rubellite, Chrome tourmaline, tanzanite and a peridot with a total weight of over 50 carats. The 18kt rose gold cuff holds a quartz movement which sits behind a faceted hexagonal transparent rubellite. 

The Serpenti Misteriosi Cleopatra goes one step further in confirming Bvlgari’s commitment to fusing the most sophisticated Haute Joaillerie know-how with Swiss watchmaking savoir-faire to offer outstandingly opulent and audaciously colourful High-Jewellery timepieces into a triumph of quintessential joie de vivre.

Tadao Ando has used cement and glass with creative use of light in the designs thought his career. These three elements are common thread running through his architectural work. Tadao Ando’s work is now part of contemporary architectural history. Among his major achievements are the Church of Light in Osaka, the Museum of Modern Art in Fort Worth (Texas) and the 21_21 Design Sight in Tokyo. After a first Octo Finissimo limited series jointly created by Bvlgari and Tadao Ando, in which the architect – impressed by Octo Finissimo pure shape – expressed time by means of a spiral engraved on the dial, a symbol of the black hole from where time is born, this second special edition picks up this theme dear to the Japanese construction specialist and based on the Mikazuki concept (三日月). While the theme of time remains central, this new model embodies a different approach.

Mikazuki represents the crescent moon, which is the first stage of the next moon that will in due course become full. This evolution symbolises the transitory nature of time, with the shadow of the earth partially masking the moon to reveal only a crescent. The watch is very minimalistic but elegant which is the underlying design language of Tadao Andos’ creations. The Tadao Ando limited edition takes a minimalist approach to the theme of time on the deep blue lacquered. The time spiral is born and uncoils from the base of the seconds hand, while the gold crescent moon is positioned at 5 o’clock. In two essential graphic elements, Tadao Ando expresses his vision of time on a watch made from black ceramic and featuring a transparent caseback bearing the architect’s signature.

The watch houses Bvlgari’s ultra-thin Calibre BVL 138 with micro-rotor, hours, minutes, and small seconds. The case is black sandblasted ceramic with a display case back. The case back has Tadao Ando laser engrave signature. The dial is blue lacquered with spatial pattern and yellow gold moon. 

Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Specification:

• Case: 40 mm diameter
• Material: Black sandblasted ceramic case, bezel, and crown
• Dial: Blue lacquered dial with special pattern and yellow gold crescent moon
• Movement: Mechanical automatic Manufacture ultra-thin Calibre BVL 138
• Bracelet: Black sandblasted ceramic bracelet with ceramic triple-blade folding clasp

Availability: Now, Limited to 160 Pieces worldwide

International Pricing: 18,100 USD

The new versions of Divissima and Allegra Cocktail Watches offer contemporary update to two classic Bvlgari designs uniting irresistible style and jewellery-making expertise to reveal a new chapter of the fascinating Bvlgari Watches Colour Treasures journey.

Bvlgari has always dared to be different and since 1950’s Bvlgari has been using bright blocks of colour and giving prominence to glossy cabochon gems and smooth-surfaced, generous-sized stones in rich, saturated colours. The deign captures the spirit of la Dolce Vita that is symbolic of the brand. 

The new watches exude femininity and are flirtatious, whimsical, and vivacious inviting the wearer to embrace life with passion. This seductive proposition has earned Bvlgari an enviable following of celebrities over the decades, including Gina Lollobrigida, Anita Ekberg and Sophia Loren, keeping alive the irrepressible joy and spontaneity of la Dolce Vita.

Divas’ Dream Divissima

The Divas’ Dream Divissima watches arrive in two models: the all-diamond and diamond and emerald timepieces. These high jewellery watches are smaller and easier to wear. The watches have a white gold architecture which gives lightness and motion to the distinctive fan-shaped-motifs which is a signature of the Divas’ Dream collection, the motifs surround the watch. 

Allegra Cocktail Watch

The Allegra watches come with mother of pearl dial in two models, a white gold version and pink gold version. The dial is emboldened by eight brilliant-cut emeralds in a vivid shade of green, set amongst waves of diamonds. A superior mastery of gem-setting is evident in the delicate mounts, which amplify the inner light of the precious stones for high-voltage glamour. The white gold watch comes with a dark blue alligator strap and shimmering taupe for the pink gold version. 

The Allegra is a dazzling example of Bvlgari’s audacious approach to jewellery watches. They have used citrines, amethysts, peridot, blue topaz and rhodolite orbiting around the mother of pearl dial which creates a stunning display of brightness. The entire setting is contrasted with the brilliance of over 80 diamonds. The mix forms a gleaming halo of stones that gently moves thanks to the expertly crafted metal settings. 

Precious and colourful entry points into the world of High-End timepieces suitable for every occasion, the new Divissima and Allegra Cocktail Watches are true jewels for the wrist that enchant with their distinctive design and charm.

Specification:

Divas’ Dream Divissima Emeralds – 103505

• Dial: Mother-of-pearl dial with green hands
• Case: 33mm white gold case set with round brilliant-cut diamonds and mobile petals set with round brilliant-cut diamonds (137 pcs in total – 2.31 cts) and 8 mobile round brilliant-cut emeralds (2.8 cts)
• Movement: Bvlgari-personalised high-precision quartz movement. 
• Water resistance: 30 m.
• Strap: Green alligator strap with 18kt white gold pin buckle set

Divas’ Dream Divissima Emeralds – 103474

• Dial: Paved with diamonds dial
• Case: 33mm white gold case set with brilliant-cut diamonds and mobile petal set with 8 brilliant-cut diamonds (261 pce in total – 5.25 cts)
• Movement: Bvlgari-personalised high-precision quartz movement. 
• Water resistance: 30 m.
• Strap: Black alligator strap with 18kt white gold folding buckle

Allegra Pink Gold – 103493

• Dial: Mother of pearl dial set with 12 diamond indexes
• Case: 36mm 18kt rose gold case set with 82 round brilliant-cut diamonds (2.23 cts) and a mix of faceted and cabochon gemstones: 2 citrines (1.45 ct), 2 amethysts (3.06 cts), 1 peridot (1.29 ct), 2 cabochon-cut blue topaz (3.06 cts), 1 rhodolite (1.63 ct)
• Movement: Bvlgari-personalised high-precision quartz movement. 
• Water resistance: 30 m.
• Strap: Taupe shimmering alligator strap with 18kt rose gold set ardillon buckle.

Allegra White Gold – 103499

• Dial: Mother of pearl dial set with 12 diamond indexes
• Case: 36mm 18kt white gold case set with 82 round brilliant-cut diamonds (2.27 cts) and a mix of faceted and cabochon gemstones: 2 citrines (1.45 ct), 1 cabochoncut amethyst (2.52 cts), 1 peridot (1.29 ct), 2 cabochon-cut blue topaz (3.06 cts), 2 rhodolites (2.34 cts)
• Movement: Bvlgari-personalised high-precision quartz movement. 
• Water resistance: 30 m.
• Strap: Dark blue shimmering alligator strap with 18kt white gold set ardillon buckle.

All 4 watches have Bvlgari personalised high-precision quartz movement which is water resistant up to 30m. The Divissima and Allegra watches are 33mm in diameter which is neither too big or too small for a ladies watch. 

Octo Finissimo has definitely made its mark on the Haute Horlogerie landscape in a very short space of time. After exploring ultra-miniaturisation in the fields of the automatic movement as well as the minute repeater, chronograph and tourbillon, Bvlgari presents Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, the slimmest in the world. This new record is available in two variations: the “signature” titanium like all Bvlgari’s World Record, and a platinum version.

The development of this watch redefines the limit of contemporary watch making that Bvlgari first established in 2014 which would be rewritten each year by Bvlgari based on modern codes. A successful exercise: Octo Finissimo has set a trend and reinvented high-flying contemporary watchmaking by bringing it that touch so brilliantly mastered by the Italian House of Bvlgari: L’Estetica della Meccanica, or the art of in-depth innovation with regard to both form and substance. Aesthetics are inseparable from functionality when it comes to reinterpreting a sophisticated classic horological complication in a resolutely contemporary manner.

The Calibre BVL 305 movement consists of 408 components interacting within the extremely limited space provided by the slender 5.80 mm case of the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar. The development of the 2.75 mm calibre required the movement design engineers of the Manufacture in Le Sentier to devise new solutions, such as the use of a micro-rotor and the optimal use of the space between the components without reducing their dimensions. Testifying to true genius in the realm of miniaturisation, this development powers the hours and minutes hands along with all the perpetual calendar functions: retrograde-display date, day, month and retrograde-display leap years. They are adjusted by means of three correctors: one for the date at 2 pm, another for the month at 4 pm and a third for the day between 8 and 9 o’clock.

The perpetual calendar movement is an impressive complication, and the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendars offers a talented reinterpretation by merging watchmaking excellence and Italian aesthetic sensitivity. There are two versions available: Titanium and Platinum. The titanium watch comes with a sandblasted titanium bracelet with folding clasp and platinum watch with a blue alligator leather strap which matches the blue lacquered dial. The watches are water-resistant to 30meters with 60 hours of power reserve. The octagon dial is encased in a 40mm case which is only 5.8mm think and has a transparent case back. The watch has more angles that you would imagine and these are machined with precision. 

Having made its mark on the turn of the century as one of the most contemporary models, Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar looks even further ahead, already propelling us towards the XXIInd century.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Titanium (103200) Specification:

• Case: 40mm
• Thickness: 5.80mm
• Material: Sandblasted Titanium
• Crown: Sandblasted Titanium crown with ceramic insert
• Movement: Calibre BVL 305. Just 2.75mm thick
• Power reserve: 60hours
• Bracelet: Sandblasted Titanium with folding clasp

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Platinum (103463) Specification:

• Case: 40mm
• Thickness: 5.80mm
• Material: Satin-brushed/Polished platinum
• Crown: White gold crown
• Dial: Blue lacquered dial
• Movement: Calibre BVL 305. Just 2.75mm thick
• Power reserve: 60hours
• Bracelet: Alligator leather strap with platinum pin clasp

International Pricing:

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Titanium – $59,000 USD

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Platinum – $89,000 USD

The original version of this timepiece (Octo Fiissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic) was available in titanium. The timepiece was crowned as the thinnest mechanical timepiece in the world when it was first released in March 2019. From the original titanium watch to this latest steel model, there certainly are quite a few changes.

Initial thoughts:

Straight off the bat, this new steel version doesn’t quite carry the same specs that the 2019 titanium record-breaking model did. While the original Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT measured at 42mm x 6.9mm for case size, the new S model measures 43mm x 8.75mm thick. Like the Octo Finissmo S Silvered dial that was released before, the new Chronograph S GMT also comes with an increase from 30m to 100m water resistance. For a sports model, this increase is certainly a plus and is sure to be met with positivity in the watch community. 

The hour markers on the new Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT have increased in size from the previous titanium version. The 12 o’clock Arabic marker has been beefed up somewhat, making its presence known against the blue sunray dial. The reason the other markers have been increased in size is to now accommodate the lume. Along with the hour markers, the hour and minute hands have also been given lume, which the previous titanium model didn’t have. That was one of the drawbacks of the titanium Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, the lack of lume affected the readability of the dial, especially in low light conditions. 

The movement on this new piece is the brand’s own BVL 318. The Cal. BVL 318 is an ultra-thin automatic movement that produces a frequency of 28, 800 VpH. It’s a record-setting movement for Bulgari, as regardless of the different complications on the model, it’s still only 3.30mm thick! The calibre BVL 318 movement powers the 24-hour sub-counter at the 3 o’clock position, the 30-minute counter at 6 o’clock position, and the constant seconds counter at 9’clock position, along with the hour, minute, and chronograph seconds hand. The calibre BVL 318 can put out a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. 

Compared to the previous titanium version, the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT sure does look a lot more lively. The bigger case size however may not be to everyone’s liking as most enthusiasts today are preferring smaller sizes on the wrist. That’s not to say this new model is a deal-breaker, as the case size has only increased by an extra millimetre, which truth be told is barely noticeable. What is noticeable however is the beautiful blue dial, and the contrasting effect provided by the silver markers, hands, and sub-dials.

Australian Retail Pricing : $24,500.00 AUD or 16,500 USD

Availability: Available May 2021

So what’s new on this model?

The biggest and the only difference is the silver vertical-brushed monochromatic dial! 

The new model follows the same design cue as the original Octo Finissimo S that was released in 2017. The steel satin-polished case size of 40mm with a thickness of just 6.4mm, yes you heard that right, just 6.4mm! This watch carries the same water resistance (100m) as the 2020 models, both blue and black dials. 

Powered by the Bulgari calibre BVL138, the movement has cotes de Geneve stripes, platinum micro-oscillating weight, chamfered bridges and circular-grained baseplate. It is worth noting that Calibre BVL 138 measures at just 2.23mm in thickness and produces a power reserve of 60 hours.

Initial impressions:

First released in 2017 in a titanium case and with an integrated bracelet. Octo Finissimo won many hearts in the watch world and in 2020, Bvlgari increased the water resistance to 100m from 30m. With this change, the already popular Octo Finissimo S became an instant hit. This steel silver verticle brushed dial version certainly gives this piece a stunning look, much like the first titanium release for the Octo Finissimo.

The polished hands and hour-markers sit beautifully against the verticle brushed silver dial. We love the integrated bracelet with the well-hidden folding clasp. What we also love is the continuity of the brushed steel on the case and bracelet that flow into the dial. Extending the current Octo Finissimo S collection, the silvered vertical brushed dial will be joining the permanent collection alongside the black and blue dial variants.

Australian Retail Pricing : $17,800.00 AUD or 12,000 USD

Availability: Available May 2021