Cartier is no Stanger to watches. The high end brand is one of the largest watch brands in the world today, and according to the 2022 sales figures released in March by Morgan Stanley, second only to Rolex and overtaking Omega (now in 3rd position) in terms of volume and revenue. The Maison is well known for it’s High-Jewellery collections but it has a long standing history with watchmaking too, which may not be as well known. Cartier is about to change this.

Australian watch enthusiasts are always wanting to get hands on with watches to try them out. After all, it really is the best way to decide whether or not a piece is for you. So Watch Advice teamed up with Cartier this week to bring the pieces that were released at Watches and Wonders this year to Brisbane, and hosted an intimate showcase over 2 evenings with watch collectors and enthusiasts in Queensland.

Hosted at the newly renovated Cartier Boutique in Brisbane, myself and Chamath from Watch Advice along with Nicola Ashworth, Cartier’s Marketing Manager, Watches, Fragrance & Accessories and Juanfra Delgado Entrambasaguas, Cartier’s Communications Executive and the Brisbane Boutique staff showcased their 2023 novelties to a group of enthusiastic watch collectors.

On show were pieces from the Santos De Cartier, Santos-Dumont, Pasha, Tank Américaine, Baignoire and Privé collections. All stunning pieces in their own right, and something for both men and women with that typical Cartier flair.

There were some special pieces on show as well, ones you would normally not get to see first hand, such as the yellow gold and the platinum Tank Normale from the Cartier Privé Collection. These are special not only because there are just a few available, but the detail on the finishing, especially the facetted crystal that is made by hand, and by one person is a joy to see.

This year, Cartier showcased a range of skeletonised Santos-Dumont in their Watches and Wonders releases with micro-rotors, and these are something to see up close and on your wrist. Full details on these pieces can be found in our write up here. The skeletisation on these are fantastic, and you understand their appeal once on the wrist, especially the Santos-Dumont with the micro-rotor at the bottom.

Throughout the night, guests enjoyed a range of canapé s and champagne, with the Cartier Boutique staff always at the ready to assist with any questions around the pieces.

Being only a small group of watch lovers each night meant that each person was able to get up close and personal with all the pieces, try them on and really get a feel for them on the wrist. At the end of the day, this is how we choose what’s the best fit for us.

As watch journalists, and people who are always handling pieces from many brands, we do get asked a lot of questions on what watch to buy, how does this wear etc. We always say the best way is to go and try them on, feel them on the wrist and get a sense of how it wears. And so often we get told that “I wasn’t sure I liked this watch, but when I tried it on in person, I loved it!” And there was a lot of that going on over the two nights at Cartier!

Personally, Cartier haven’t been on my radar until recently, and even though we live and breathe watches, you always have those brands that you know of and their pieces, but you’ve not really had a chance to get to know the brand and what goes into each watch. But talking with Cartier and getting to know their brand, their watches, the manufacturing side of them and having the pieces to play with for a period of time, you have a new sense of appreciation for them. It seems that many people who attended over the two nights now feel the same!

A few watch enthusiasts taking in the pieces

Here are some more images from the two nights, and hopefully, we can do more of these for the collector and watch community in the future with more brands that people can get to know and love. And if you want to see more of Cartier’s time pieces, then head into the Cartier Brisbane boutique at 172 Edward Street, Brisbane City, or jump onto the @cartierwatchcommunity to see and learn more about Cartier’s watchmaking and time pieces.

Watch Advice works with selected brands in a paid partnership capacity, and as such, this article is in partnership with Cartier.

Mid week events are always good to go to, and whenever I get invited to one, it’s always nice to break up the week. However, when the invite to attend the grand re-opening of the Cartier Boutique in Brisbane landed in my inbox, lets just say I RSVP’d immediately! Cartier is probably one of the most well known luxury brands in the world, and they also make some great timepieces, like the classic Tank or the Santos. With a newly renovated boutique in their new style, and having toured their new flagship store in Sydney, I had to head along to check it out.

Cartier are overhauling their look. Gone are the darker, dimmer stores with swathes of plush red furniture. Their new design style in their boutiques is contemporary, fresh, bright and references to Panthére are all around. For those unfamiliar with Panthére, then you can watch this short video below on just how the Panther became a style symbol for Cartier.

Cartier are embracing the local flora and fauna as well as elements of both the country and cities their boutiques are in, and infusing this with each boutique’s decor, style and art. You can see this in the Brisbane Boutique’s mural on the wall on the ground floor, and then through the boutique, style elements like the quartz crystal lights and chandelier sourced from The Northern Territory.

The grand re-opening of Cartier Brisbane was a chance for Cartier to show off the new Boutique as well as their warm hospitality to selected guests, VIP clients and friends of the brand. And they delivered! The iconic Cartier Bellhops in Red greeted you as you walked in, and no sooner as we had our names checked off, one of the hosts for the night was saying hello, and making sure you felt welcome!

Champagne and cocktails were on offer, and Cartier pulling out all the stops had their own signature cocktail , complete with a logo etched ice cube topped with gold leaf. Lets say I didn’t just have one!

Whilst the guests mingled and staff circulated to make sure you’re always comfortable and felt at home, a violin duo played in the background with classical re-interpretations of modern songs. This provided the perfect backdrop fusing the old world charm with modernity, not to mention a more upbeat, yet chilled vibe to their mid week soirée.

Once the guests were ushered upstairs, we were able to see the full extent of the new look boutique, with private viewing rooms, lounge areas and space to make clients feel less like they are shopping, and more like they are being taken on an experience and journey – albeit to buy something. But this is what luxury should be about – the experience and the way it makes you feel, not just the products themselves.

Guest didn’t walk away empty handed either. Whilst it would have been nice to get a gift bag with some Cartier jewellery or maybe a small Tank in it, (one can hope!) Cartier went the more personal route. Guests were able to have one of Cartier’s artists do a small initialled picture, painted in gold with the iconic Panthére in the foreground, and the Brisbane skyline in the background, which means you have a nice story to tell whenever anyone sees and asks about it. Well done Cartier!

As the night wrapped up, I had to admit that this was one of the more personal and thought through events I’ve been to in recent times. All the staff were super friendly, and always willing to help and even just throw you a big smile as you walked past.

The food was superb and the cocktails we’re maybe a little too good (hard to have just one!) and the Violin duo created the atmosphere and vibe that many people I spoke to positively commented on. I had to agree here too, all the elements put together worked and made for a great evening and you left with a smile on your face saying to yourself, “That was a great event and a fun night!”

Make sure you have a look at more photo’s from the night below, and if you’re wanting to check out the newly renovated boutique, then head into Cartier at 172 Edward Street, Brisbane City. You won’t be disappointed! For more information, head to Cartier.com.au

The event has a strict invitation policy, where only certain celebrities, fashion designers, influential figures, and models are invited. As this is a fashion event, there will be a range of outfits on show, from the stylish and classy to the wild and outrageous. With these outfits come the accessories, accessories that we love: watches.

Having a nice watch on the wrist can perfectly complement and even lift the attire being worn. Every watch collector has that one piece that comes out only on special occasions. For celebrities and attendees of the Met Gala, this is their chance to showcase the best they have. So without further ado, let’s look at the timepieces that were worn during this year’s Met Gala.

Simu Liu – Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Ref. 4500V
Image Ref: Monochrome watches/Getty Images

The Canadian actor known for portraying Shang-chi in the 2021 Marvel movie Shang-Chi was seen wearing a Vacheron Constantin Overseas. This particular model is stainless steel with a black dial.

Price: $35,500 AUD

Stormzy – Patek Philippe Nautilus

Ref. 5711/110P-001
Image Ref: Theperpetualwatch / Uproxx/Getty Images

The British rapper Michael Owuo Jr., more famously known as Stormzy, made a stylish entrance into this year’s Met Gala in a floral print blue and black suit. Accompanying this suit was his rare full platinum Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/110P with a factory diamond bezel.

Price: $155,000 USD.

Eileen Gu – IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34

Ref (IW659802)
Image ref: Watchilove / Unofficialnetworks

The 19-year-old freestyle skier has represented China in halfpipe, slopestyle, and big air events since 2019. Matching her beautiful white and pink dress was her IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34, with a pink leather strap.

Price: $30,200 AUD

Jack Harlow – Rolex GMT Master II (Batman) 

Ref. 126710BLNR-0003
Image Ref: Bilboard.com

Jack Harlow the famous American rapper was seen at the Gala wearing an navy Tommy Hilfiger jacket and pants, which let his stainless steel Rolex GMT stand out quite nicely. This Rolex GMT Master II has a blue and black bezel insert and is iconically known as the “Batman”.

Price: $15,050 AUD

Roger Federer – Rolex Perpetual 1908

Image Ref: Gettyimages.

One of the all-time greats, if not the greatest tennis player ever, Roger Federer in a slick and sharp suit. On the wrist? A piece that’s just as classy and elegant as his attire. The Rolex Perpetual 1908 in white gold and fluted bezel was just released at this year’s Watches and Wonders.

Price: $32,850 AUD

Rami Malek –  Cartier Tank Must

Ref. WGTA0091
Image Ref: JustJared.com

Rami Malek, the American actor who played the villain in the last Bond Movie “No Time to Die” and also the lead role in Bohemian Rhapsody wore what is a very minimalistic outfit. The somewhat plain black and white attire was accompanied by his 18l Rose gold Cartier Tank Louis.

Price: $20,500 AUD

Michelle Yeoh – Richard Mille platinum with baguette-cut diamonds

Ref (RM 07-01)
Image Ref: Jamesedition.com / Getty Images

The Malaysian actress famous for her roles in Crazy Rich Asians, Shang Chi and 007’s Tomorrow Never Dies just to name a few was seen donning the Richard Mille RM07-01. This timepiece makes use of ceramic, gold, carbon, and of course…diamonds!

Price: $1,000,000 USD

Nick Jonas – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Ref (26315ST.OO.1256ST.02.)
Image Ref: John Shearer/Wireimage

The American singer, songwriter, and actor Nick Jonas wore a sharp suit with a leather jacket combo accompanied by a very fine timepiece tucked away. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 38mm, a stainless steel chronograph with a beautiful silver dial.

Price: $31,500 USD.

Anitta – Roger Dubuis Velvet Platinum 38MM

Ref. (RDDBVE0019)
Image Ref: Mike Coppola/Getty Images

The Brazilian superstar gracefully entered Met Gala 2023 for her third appearance in a Marc Jacobs gown with a long silky train. For us watch aficionados, however, the center of her outfit was the Roger Dubuis Velvet Platinum 38mm.

Price: $ 2,155,000 AUD.

Designed in 1917 by Louis Cartier and then released in 1919, the Tank upon its release had a unique design. The case was designed by taking an overhead view of the Renault tanks that featured in World War 1 (hence the name Tank for the timepiece). Cartier has carried through this watchmaking design icon still to this date, with many different variations of the Tank being released.

This year’s Tank Normale goes back to its design roots, with the timepiece having iconic features of the original 1917 design. These features include the same case proportions, beveled sapphire crystal, Roman numeral dial with the railroad track being on the inner part of the dial, and the “1917” date hidden in the VII-hour marker.

A total of seven variations of this all-new Tank Normale are being released by Cartier. The timepieces range from 18k yellow gold to 950/1000 platinum in leather straps and bracelets, from skeleton models to skeleton with diamonds timepiece. All variants besides the diamond model come with either a ruby cabochon or blue sapphire winding crown.

Tank Normale 18k Yellow Gold & 950/1000 Platinum on Bracelet

The Tank Normale is offered in 18k yellow gold or 950/1000 platinum bracelets to match the respective cases. The Tank timepiece being offered in a matching bracelet is a first for Cartier’s Privé collection. The bracelet option is a reference to the vintage Cartier models, which will please many collectors that are able to get their hands on these watches. The same brushed finish that is on the case is continued onto the bracelet links which gives a beautiful smooth finish all around. Both models on the bracelet are limited to 100 pieces.

Tank Normale 18k Yellow Gold & 950/1000 Platinum On Leather Strap

The 18k yellow gold and 950/1000 platinum Tank with its 35.2mm x 27.8mm case size is also offered on alligator straps. The yellow-gold model comes with a brown alligator strap which adds an extra touch of color to the timepiece. The platinum model is offered in a black alligator strap, which retains the greyscale look. It also makes the ruby cabochon winding crown stand out too. Both variants on the leather strap are limited to 200 pieces each.

Tank Normale 18k Yellow Gold & 950/1000 Platinum Skeleton

The more modern update for this latest Tank collection is the skeleton models. Offered in the same materials (18k yellow gold and 950/1000 platinum), the skeleton timepieces come with colour matching bridges. These models also have a 24-hour timescale, instead of the traditional 12-hour markers. Essentially the day starts at the bottom 0 o’clock mark, with the hour hand making its way around the dial clockwise indicating time in a 24-hour mode. The dial has also been color-coded to show nighttime and daytime. The nighttime is indicated in the bottom half of the dial where it has a crescent moon finish, while the daylight hours are indicated on the top half of the dial through the sun-shaped bridges. Both skeleton variants are limited to 50 models each.

Tank Normale 950/1000 Platinum Skeleton Diamond Edition

The final piece in this latest Tank Normale collection is the diamond set edition. This model carries the same design as the skeleton models above, however, now comes with a case set with 42 brilliant-cut diamonds that total 1.95 carats. The crown has also been changed to now have faceted brilliant cut diamond which totals 0.12 carats. This diamond edition of the Tank Normale Skeleton is limited to 20 individually numbered pieces.

References: (Ref. WGTA0110), (Ref. WGTA0111)

Specification:

• Case: 32.6mm x 25.7mm
• Case Material: 18k Yellow gold (750/1000) or Platinum (950/1000)
• Dial: Brushed Silver with Roman Numerals
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: N/A
• Movement: Manual Hand-Wound Calibre 070
• Power reserve: 38 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: 18k Yellow gold (750/1000) or Platinum (950/1000) bracelet

International Recommended Retail Price: $46,400 USD (Ref. WGTA0110), $53,500 USD (Ref. WGTA0111)

Availability: TBA.

References:  (Ref. WGTA0108), (Ref. WGTA0109)

Specification:

• Case: 32.6mm x 25.7mm
• Case Material: 18k Yellow gold (750/1000) or Platinum (950/1000)
• Dial: Brushed Silver with Roman Numerals
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: N/A
• Movement: Manual Hand-Wound Calibre 070
• Power reserve: 38 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Brown alligator-skin strap, 18K yellow gold (750/1000) ardillon buckle or Black alligator-skin strap, platinum 950/1000 ardillon buckle.

International Recommended Retail Price: $31,000 USD (Ref. WGTA0108), $34,900 USD (Ref. WGTA0109)

Availability: TBA.

References: (Ref. WHTA0021), (Ref. WHTA0020)

Specification:

• Case: 35.2mm x 27.8mm
• Case Material: 18k Yellow gold (750/1000) or Platinum (950/1000)
• Dial: Skeleton dial
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: N/A
• Movement: Manual Winding Calibre 9628 MC,
• Power reserve: 36 hours.
• Bracelet/Strap: Brown alligator-skin strap, second strap in green alligator skin, 18K yellow gold (750/1000) ardillon buckle (Ref. WHTA0021) or Gray alligator-skin strap and burgundy alligator-skin strap, platinum 950/1000 ardillon buckle (Ref. WHTA0020).

International Recommended Retail Price: $71,000 USD (Ref. WHTA0021), $80,000 USD (Ref. WHTA0020)

Availability: TBA.

References: (Ref. HPI01558)

Specification:

• Case: 35.2mm x 27.8mm
• Case Material: Platinum 950/1000 case set with 42 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 1.95 carats
• Dial: Skeleton
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: N/A
• Movement: Manual Winding Calibre 9628 MC
• Power reserve: 38 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: 2 leather straps in blue and dark blue alligator skin, platinum 950/1000 ardillon buckle set with 25 diamonds totaling 0.20 carats.

International Recommended Retail Price: $107,000 USD

Availability: TBA.

So instead, we present my favourite twelve picks that came out of this year’s Geneva show, from Rolex’s Daytona to Vacheron Constantin’s Retrograde update.

Ulysse Nardin Freak One

The latest update to one of the most daring timepieces created in the 21st century. This newest creation, the Freak One, comes packed with technology while still remaining durable, easy to use, and designed to be worn as a daily.

The timepiece has been given a black DLC-coated titanium case with a rose gold 5N bezel with a matching dial interior. The three signature characteristics that made the Freak an icon is retained on this timepiece: no hands, no dial, and no crown. Ulysse Nardin is aiming to make the Freak One its flagship timepiece. You can read more about this latest FREAK creation here!

TAG Heuer Carrera Date 36mm

While TAG Heuer updated quite a few of their collections, one that stood out beautifully was the new colourways for the new Carrera Date 36mm.

The vibrant pink dial is just made to stand out. The added snailed finish on the dial makes it a stunning timepiece. TAG Heuer made a bold choice to break away from the traditional colours of black, blue, or white. A choice that we think will pay off for the brand. To see more of this pink dial Carrera Date plus more, click here!

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

No list would be complete without seeing the latest update from Rolex. The Rolex Daytona is as emblematic as it gets in the world of watches. The entire range of Daytona’s got an update for this year’s Watches and Wonders.

While the update to a lot of the models in this collection seemed minor, especially aesthetically, what stood out was the 950 platinum edition. Rolex has, for the first time in a Daytona, given the timepiece an open case back. Only visible on the 950 platinum model, Rolex has given this new Daytona collection the new-generation calibre 4131 movement. Read more about this latest update to the Daytona here!

Hublot Square Bang Unico New Editions

2022 saw the release of a world-first, square-shaped Bang Unico from Hublot. This model has enjoyed a lot of success since its release, so why not bring it back with an impressive update?

This year Watches and Wonders saw Hublot unveil three new editions for their Square Bang Unico. Two models in white and black sapphire and an incredible Square Bang Unico in Sapphire. Hublot is one of the leaders of using sapphire materials in their timepiece, so it only makes sense to bring two impressive designs together. Read all about the new Square Bang Unico here!

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Retrograde

Vacheron Constantin, this year has been all about the retrograde update, with some existing collections getting this feature. One of these collections is the Overseas line.

What is already a stunning timepiece with that gorgeous blue dial, this all-new Overseas model gets the retrograde function. The retrograde display is a historical design for Vacheron Constantin, one that fits beautifully on this timepiece as is also accompanied by a moon phase indicator. Read more about this retrograde update for Vacheron’s Overseas model here!

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition

I’ve always been a fan of Montblanc’s Geosphere timepiece. The fact that you get the northern and southern hemispheres on the dial spinning in sync with the day/24hr time was always interesting to see.

Now, Montblanc has given the 1858 Geosphere a new update. Montblanc introduced a new capsule collection that pays tribute to the world’s 14 highest peaks. These mountains are all above 8000 feet and have barely any oxygen, which is the central theme in this new collection. Read more about this latest 1858 Geosphere creation from Montblanc here!

IWC Schaffhausen’s Ingenieur Automatic 40

IWC has given their Ingenieur collection a newly engineered update, which references design codes from Gerald Genta’s Ingenieur SL (ref. 1832) from the 1970s.

The new collection comes with four models, with three models being made from stainless steel and the fourth given the titanium treatment. It takes an old classic and gives it modern design features while also improving wearability and performance. All the right ingredients to make it hit in the world of watchmaking. Read more about IWC’s newest Ingenieur Automatic 40 collection here!

Cartier Skeleton Collection

While this isn’t a singular watch, the entire Cartier Skeleton collection makes it into this list. For this year’s skeleton models update, Cartier is upgrading four new collections, each with their own iconic shape and design.

The Santos-Dumont, Pasha de Cartier, Santos de Cartier, and a grand complications pocket watch are getting aesthetic and mechanical upgrades. With a flawless balance between the movement and dial, Cartier has mastered the art of making skeleton watches, more so evident through this latest collection of skeleton timepieces. Read more about this collection here!

Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton In Black Ceramic

Following on from 2022’s update for the DEFY Skyline models with the new generation of seminal El Primero high-frequency calibre movements, 2023 sees the watches get a new aesthetic upgrade.

Two models in the DEFY Skyline line get a black ceramic makeover, with one of the models being the Skeleton. Crafted entirely in black ceramic, including the bracelet, the DEFY Skyline Skeleton is one of the standout pieces in Zeniths 2023 releases. To read more about this timepiece, click here.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Bi-colour

This year, Oris has updated the Aquis collection with new colours and materials. With the combination of the coloured rubber straps, the Oris Aquis Date Calibre Bi-colour for is one of the stand-outs in the collection.

This fun summer timepiece is offered in two dial colour variations (deep blue and forest green) and has an 18-carat fold finish on the edges of the bezel and matching gold details on the dial. Oh, and did we mention that it features Oris’s incredible 5-day power reserve Calibre 400 movement? If this piques your interest, click here to read more!

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

This one for all the racing enthusiasts out there. The iconic and ageless design of the original 1963 Heuer Carrera has inspired this latest creation from the Swiss giant. With a fresh new dynamic styling, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph will be released with two dial variants: a black and blue dial.

The dial carries a lot of colour accents, with them being the gradient orange ring, a reference to racecar speedometers. Each variant of this new Carrera Chronograph has its own character; however, what’s clear is that both timepieces carry the Carrera icon into the next generation with ageless styling and high-quality movements. To find out more about this Carrera Chronograph update, click here.

Baume & Mercier Riviera 39mm Collection

Another collection of timepieces that stood out was Baume & Mercier’s 39mm Riviera line. Released as part of the celebrations of Riviera’s 50^th anniversary, this new collection is offered with different material and dial variations.

Available in either stainless steel with a smoked blue dial or smoked grey sapphire dial or titanium bezel with a smoked grey dial, this new Riviera collection features a beautiful wave transfer decoration on the dial. This latest update for the Riviera collection brings it forward to a new era while keeping all the essence of what makes this piece loved by watch aficionados. To read more about this collection, click here!

Santos-Dumont Skeleton Watches

The iconic Santos-Dumont skeleton watch is now introduced in a new specially developed 9629 MC automatic skeleton calibre. The Santos-Dumont skeleton collection carries the elegance of the 1904 model, with visible screws, a beaded crown, and a blue cabochon, it features a skeleton movement with every structural detail paying homage to the aviator. The back of the timepiece also showcases a miniaturized functional oscillating weight in the shape of the Demoiselle replica, a trailblazing plane designed by the pilot in 1907.

The Santos-Dumont Skeleton collection comes available in three versions. A rose gold, steel, and a limited edition in yellow gold and navy lacquer. The navy lacquer in the yellow-gold version is presented in a number of details on the watch, including the bezel, case, and skeleton bridges. All three of the Santos-Dumont timepieces are presented in a 31mm square case with a water resistance of upto 30m (3bar).

Santos de Cartier Skeleton Watch

The Santos de Cartier Skeleton timepiece brings together the expertise of jewelry and high watchmaking. Through this combined expertise, it brings about a refined design that leaves its mark on this latest version of the Santos de Cartier. The timepiece is paved with baguette-cut diamonds and features a 9611 MC skeleton movement with manual winding.

The Santos de Cartier Skeleton is presented in a 47.5mm x 37.7mm white gold case set with 126 baguette-cut diamonds (totaling 5.88 carats). The faceted crown is set with a 0.22-carat brilliant-cut diamond. The watch is enhanced further by a more open-worked dial, which showcases the Manufacture manual winding calibre 9611 MC movement underneath the Roman hour indices which are interconnected with the case.

Pasha de Cartier Skeleton Watch

For the Pasha de Cartier, Cartier took its signature movement and matched it up with its oversized Arabic numerals. The symbolic design of the Pasha which is a square inside a circle has been more emphasised in this skeleton timepiece. Especially the details such as the square for the filigree rail track and the circle for the shape of the case. The Pasha de Cartier comes available with in a 41mm rose gold 750/1000 case with a fluted crown cap end set with sapphire. The movement beneath the Arabic numerals is the automatic winding calibre 9624 MC, operating at 4hz (28, 800 VpH) and a power reserve of 48 hours.

Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication Skeleton pocket watch

The Cartier Grande Complication Skeleton pocket watch contains a minute repeater, a flying tourbillon, and a perpetual calendar, which equates to being one of the most complex movements ever created by Cartier Manufacture. The three of the most prestigious complications in fine watchmaking are bought together in the 9506 MC automatic calibre.

The skeletonised design of the 9506 calibre movement is optimised for its beauty to be appreciated, whilst of course, serving its purpose. Within the 56mm white gold 750/1000 case the perpetual calendar’s counters, time, date, minutes, the flying tourbillon, and finally the minute repeater’s gongs and hammers can be fully admired. The Rontonde de Cartier Grande Complication Skeleton pocket watch comes in two variations. One with white gold 750/1000 dial, hour markers, and a bezel covered in black lacquer, or the white gold case set with 263 baguette-cut diamonds (21.24 carats) with also the white gold dial set with 111 baguette-cut diamonds totaling 6 carats. Both variations carry the sam movement, which operates at a frequency of 3Hz (21, 600 VpH) and gives out a power reserve of 50 hours.

Reference: Santos-Dumont Skeleton Collection

Specification:

• Case: 31mm square case
• Case Material: Steel, Rose gold and Limited edition yellow gold
• Dial: Skeleton
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 30m
• Movement: Automatic Calibre 9629 MC
• Power reserve: 44 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Blue alligator-skin, dark blue alligator-skin, grey alligator-skin, burgundy alligator-skin and brown alligator-skin straps.

International Recommended Retail Price: TBA

Availability: TBA

Reference: Santos de Cartier

Specification:

• Case: 47.2mm x 37.7mm
• Case Material: Rhodium-finish white gold 750/1000
• Dial: Skeleton
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 30m
• Movement: Manual Winding Calibre 9611 MC
• Power reserve: 72 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Grey alligator-skin or black alligator-skin strap

International Recommended Retail Price: TBA.

Availability: TBA.

Reference: Pasha de Cartier

Specification:

• Case: 41mm
• Case Material: Rose gold 750/1000
• Dial: Skeleton
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 30m
• Movement: Automatic Calibre 9624 MC
• Power reserve: 48 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Black alligator-skin or grey alligator-skin strap.

International Recommended Retail Price: TBA.

Availability: TBA.

Reference:

Specification:

• Case: 56mm
• Case Material: White gold 750/1000 or White gold 750/1000 with 263 baguette-cut diamonds (21.24 carats)
• Dial: White gold 750/1000 dial, hour marker and bezel covered in black lacquer, white gold 750/1000 dial set with 111 baguette-cut diamonds totaling 6 carats, blued-steel apple-shaped hands.
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 30m
• Movement: Automatic calibre 9506 MC
• Power reserve: 50 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: N/A

International Recommended Retail Price: TBA.

Availability: TBA.

With the first half of 2021 over, Watchadvice has gone through some of the special timepieces that were released this year. The staff has narrowed down the top 5 watches of 2021 so far based on their personal preferences. So without further ado, we present to you Watchadvice Top 5 Staff picks for the first half of 2021.

1) Rado Captain Cook High Tech Ceramic

The “Master of materials”, Rado, released their latest ceramic masterpiece in the Captain Cook High Tech Ceramic. What makes this watch special and why we love it is the fact that it comes in a 43mm monobloc case that has been crafted entirely from ceramic. The inward sloping bezel, along with white numerals on the bezel and markers is all visually appealing and act as a perfect contrast to the dial.

The other notable feature of this timepiece is also the see-through movement on the dial. Rado has used a dark tinted sapphire glass on the dial to showcase the movement underneath. By using tinted glass, means that dial readability is unhindered. We at Watch Advice were fortunate enough to have this piece for a full review, which you can see here. 

2) JLC Reverso Nonantieme

In celebration of the Reverso’s 90th anniversary, Jaeger-LeCoultre released a very special timepiece earlier this year. The Reverso Tribute Nonantième (Nonantième being French for “ninetieth”) is a double-sided timepiece with one side being unique. The front of the Reverso Tribute Nonantième is quite conventional, with the display showing the date at 12 o’clock, a normal 12 hour time display, and a special moon phase display which has a disc bearing a textured moon that has been modelled after the actual lunar surface.

Flip the dial over and this is where it gets interesting. The reverse dial displays a digital “semi-jumping hour”, with a disc showing the minutes. Between the digital hour display and the minute disc, there is a blue disc with a sun and moon motif which is the day and night display. The reason we love this watch is that not only does it celebrate the 90th anniversary of the Reverso” but also because of its unique reverse dial display. 

3) Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Integral Full Sapphire

With this list being full of watches with nifty innovations and unique features, it would be a shame not to include the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Integral Full Sapphire. It’s needless to say we love this watch, well because just look at it!

The whole thing from top-down is fully see-through. Hublot has used sapphire for the case, the bezel, the movement plates, and even the bracelet. A watch like this is a technical feat that very few brands can master. 

On top of making the whole watch as see-through as possible, Hublot has minimalised the movement as well, to only retain the bare necessities. Oh and on top of that, they have chucked a tourbillon for added measure. 

4) Royal Oak Self-Winding Chronograph 38mm in Pink Gold

Audemars Piguet released a whole lot of epic timepieces this year, ranging from all-black ceramic, rainbow RO, to Royal Oak Frosted Gold. There was one other model, however, which is our pick for one of the best watch’s of 2021 so far.

The Royal Oak Self-Winding Chronograph 38mm in Pink Gold is one hot timepiece. While the rainbow-coloured RO’s might be taking most of the attention, this piece is certainly a show-stopper as well. 

Why do we love this watch? Well firstly, this Royal Oak Chronograph has been fitted with a purple dial that’s new for Audemars Piguet. The purple dial is almost seen as a chameleon dial as the purple tones can range from pink to purple and sometimes shades of blue, depending on lighting conditions. The second reason why we fell for this piece is the beautiful bezel.

This bezel has been fitted with amethyst stones. A lot of amethyst stones. 32 baguette-cut amethyst stones to be in fact. With the combination of the stones in the bezel along with the stunning purple dial, encased in pink gold, Audemars Piguet has done this one just right. 

5) Cartier Solarbeat Tank

At the heart of this latest Cartier watch is double innovation. The Cartier Solarbeat Tank’s first innovative feat is of course the Solarbeat movement. Taking almost two years for the design/engineering team to develop this unique movement, the Cartier Solarbeat Tank will now have a lifespan of approximately 16 years! The engineering team was able to apply the photovoltaic principle to the dial without needing to change the appearance of the dial. 

An amazing technical feat was achieved to get the light to reach the photovoltaic cells hidden underneath the dial. This was achieved through the perforation of the Roman hour numerals, whose openings allowed the light to hit the cells. 

The second innovation is actually on the watch strap. Cartier states that the watch strap is made without using animal materials while still maintaining quality and comfort. This is why we love the Cartier Solarbeat Tank. 

Not something that you would think would be exciting, but it is. One of the most prestigious and classical jewellery companies in the world produced a watch that not only has some very cool technology but also serves to increase the longevity of wear. 

The Tank was first introduced in 1917 by the brand’s founder Louis Cartier. Paying Homage to the French Renault FT-17 tank, used in the First World War. The watch first became available to the public in 1919, with only six pieces made, the Tank watch was a major departure from the soft-edged curved jewellery that was popular at the time. By the 1920s the Tank watch was rising in popularity as an elegant and sophisticated watch with a tough edge. The watch is a unisex timepiece that is a masterclass in proportions. The new Tank Must SolarBeat stays true to this tradition, but with new levels of modern conveniences.

Utilising solar charging Cartier has stated that owners should expect 16 years between battery changes, which is better than a Casio. Granted it doesn’t have any of the other features a Casio does, but it looks a lot better while doing it. The most interesting part of this watch is that all of the solar energy needed to recharge the internal battery is drawn through the Roman numerals on the dial using the Photovoltaic charging system. 

The Cartier Tank Must SolarBeat will be available in two sizes, 33mm x 25.5mm for the large model, and 29.5 x 22mm for the smaller model. Both with three non-animal leather strap options; black, blue or light green all produced using apple organic scraps from the European food industry. All of this shows the new level of environmental care that Cartier is putting into their pieces. Not only are they producing a beautiful everyday watch, but you can set and never touch the piece again except in admiration.

Born from a friendship between Louis Cartier and his pilot pal – Brazlian Aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont – the Cartier Santos was created as a tool to help Alberto tell the time when flying. In the century or so since, Cartier’s Santos has been at the forefront of the brands watch collection, widely loved for its timeless design and icon status. 

In more recent years, Cartier’s watch department has been hard at work updating and refining their watch offering, collecting heaps of praise along the way. Earlier this year, the brand released a trio (the Santos-Dumont “Le Brésil,” “La Baladeuse,” and “No. 14 Bis” Limited Editions) of Large size limited editions during Watches & Wonders 2020. 

Each of these three watches feature Cartier’s in-house and hand-wound movement, a 430 MC. They’re also made from a combination of different metals with a dial to match, and were made in different quantities. Each of the trio is named after one of Alberto Santos-Dumont’s famous aircraft, which is featured on the caseback, alongside a corresponding motif engraving. 

Today, we’re taking a closer look at the No. 14 Bis Limited Edition, named after a biplane designed and built by Alberto Santos-Dumont, which made the first ‘publicly witnessed’ manned powered flight way back in 1906. The 14-Bis was also known as ‘Oiseau de proie’, French for ‘bird of prey’. 

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: 

I was blown away by my instantaneous affection for the Santos-Dumont, it’s look and feel, from the moment I closed the buckle. Previously, I’ve danced around purchasing a piece from Cartier’s Santos De Cartier collection, after being drawn in by the iconic design and the appeal of more recent updates – like the interchangeable strap system. It started with the Santos De Cartier Large in Gold and Steel. Then when the Large Steel model was released with a graduated blue dial – I was at the boutique the day of the release to try one on. 

Evidently I purchased neither, because it felt a little too chunky and out of proportion for my personal tastes. These aren’t large or bulky watches by any means, but I own plenty of sports watches, and sought something more refined. 

Enter, the Santos-Dumont. Admittedly, this was my first close encounter with the ‘newer’ Santos-Dumont collection, updated last year at SIHH 2019. I’ll be the first to say it – I’ve been missing out. 

Obvious dressiness aside, I found the Santos-Dumont to be super versatile, pairing nicely with my double denim ensemble. The Santos-Dumont, particularly in two-tone, is not a watch you ‘dress down’, but a watch that dresses you and your outfit up! 

[For a full recap of my first impressions, as they happened, check out this episode of my podcast, OT: The Podcast.] 

THE WATCH: 

Measuring in at 43.5mm x 31.4mm the Santos-Dumont in Large, isn’t that large, and felt perfect on my wrist. At just 7.3mm in thickness, the Santos-Dumont has a respectful and unobtrusive profile. The case is also water-resistant to nifty 30 bar, which is plenty for any well-intentioned wear. 

Framing an anthracite dial with Roman numeral markers is a yellow gold bezel matching the hands, which are gold-toned steel sword shaped. At 3 o’clock, you’ll find a beaded crown, with a synthetic blue cabochon spinel. 

On wrist is where you feel the difference in refinement between the Cartier Santos and the Santos-Dumont. If you found the regular Santos a little large, I strongly encourage you to seek a Santos-Dumont out. In fact, if you’re like me and don’t own a dress watch because you’re well aware of how rambunctious (or even downright rough) you can be with your timepieces – then I recommend you try a Santos-Dumont. 

Surprisingly, this watch induced a slight behavioural change on the wrist. Not only do you feel an overwhelming desire to protect it, but the proportions insist on a near bespoke fit, as Cartier offers a range of Santos-Dumont pieces in Small, Large and XL. 

As mentioned earlier, the Cartier Santos-Dumont No.14 Bis LE features an in-house manual movement, which is a step up from the quartz movements seen at the entry level of Cartier’s watches. To those held back by the quartz movements in the first generation, the new mechanical Santos-Dumont’s are a game changer. If I owned this watch, it wouldn’t be something I wore everyday, so hand-wound movement would work just fine. 

The grey alligator strap was everything you’d expect from a luxury brand like Cartier. The strap matched the anthracite dial and provided a nice contrast to the yellow gold bezel, giving youth to this gentlemen’s watch. The strap also features quick release pins, which always earn extra points. 

FINAL THOUGHTS: 

If the Santos-Dumont came on a bracelet, I’d already own one of these modern day classics. 

It’s a gentlemen’s watch, which made me feel more responsible. And, for the money, you’re getting a solid package of stylish and timeless design, from a brand with huge pedigree. The limited nature of the No.14 Bis offers up something a little more special, and unique. 

Australian Retail Price: $10,900.00

Availability: Available now, Limited to 500 pieces worldwide

For more information visit Cartier.com.au

Here we have the newest all black iteration of the Santos de Cartier. Available in the large size, 47.5mm lug to lug by 39.8mm from crown to flank, the obvious change here is the sleek black ADLC coating applied to every inch of the watch, making this the most modern looking Santos in the collection.

Never one to skimp on detail, Cartier have included two straps for the model. The first a rather simple black alligator leather snugly fitted to the case of the Santos. The second a rather impressive looking black rubber, complete with screw shaped rivets to simulate the look of the steel Santos bracelet from the model’s initial release. The ink black dial features traditional roman numerals and colour matched date wheel at 6’oclock, sword shaped hands filled with super-luminova mean that legibility should not be an issue when the lights go out. Ensuring not to disrupt the stealthy styling of the piece, Cartier forgo the signature sapphire or ruby cabochon and instead set inside the crown a black spinel. 

Housed within the all new ADLC coated black case is the automatic calibre 1847 MC movement, the same calibre used in the standard Santos range. We also see the return of the wildly popular “Quickswitch” strap system, which allows wearers to easily and swiftly change the straps of the watch, without the use of a strap tool.

Cartier’s continued improvement and attention to the Santos line shows that the brand has recognised the models popularity, and is continuing to reward consumers for spending with the brand over the years.

For those looking for a fashion forward watch with significant horological chops, the new all black ADLC Santos de Cartier can be had for $11,500aud