Chopard and Bamford Watch Department have released a 50 piece limited edition Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Bamford Edition ‘Desert Racer’. Yes, it’s a long name for a watch, which will be sure to be shortened by enthusiasts and owners to the Mille Miglia Desert Racer, but an edgy and sporty watch nonetheless. Housed in a 43mm case, it’s striking orange and black dial and bezel, mixed with the subdued grey titanium case make for a cool combination.

The new piece from Chopard and Bamford Watch Department is a tribute to desert races, and looking at the colour scheme, you can see why. The watch recently accompanied George Bamford in the desert of northern Mexico, on the occasion of the last edition of the National Off Road Racing Association, in which he participated aboard a Meyers Manx buggy, and according to George, it held up perfectly:

“What an amazing experience doing the Norra 1000 with Meyers Manx for the launch of the Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Bamford Edition ‘Desert Racer’. I was so pleased to say that I tried and tested it in the desert, on a desert race and the watch is built to survive on great expeditions and adventures. With this flame orange and tarmac black dial, the combination works in perfect harmony. I loved working on the Mille Miglia watch and when we were coming to create this one, I really wanted to have an alternative to the original Mille Miglia and that’s why we felt the Desert Racer would be the off-road cousin of the Mille Miglia.”

George Bamford

The timepiece features a robust 43 mm-diameter case made of bead-blasted titanium – an extremely resistant, light metal – topped by a bezel with a black aluminium graduated inlay. Its short lugs and 11.43mm thickness makes this an easy wearing watch, and combined with the lightness of Titanium, should wear or feel a little smaller than the 43mm diameter would normally dictate.

Adding to the adventurous aesthetic and motorsport ties are the large orange numerals on the dial, making for ease of legibility, filled with SuperLuminova©. The date wheel and 5 minute markers on the bezel in the same bright orange complete the look, and there is a playful “fuel gauge” between 8 and 10 o’clock, showing the wearer how much power reserve is left in the 60 hour tank.

As this is a sports watch designed for function, Chopard and Bamford Watch Department have given the limited edition piece a woven-effect rubber strap, that on first glances, looks like sail cloth or canvas. The rubber just adds to the durability of the watch as well as the comfort when wearing for long periods of time. The watch is fastened by a polished folding clasp in DLC bead-blasted steel, matching the look of the case.

Under the bonnet is the Mechanical self-winding Chopard 01.08-C movement, entirely developed, produced and assembled in Chopard’s watchmaking workshops. The Chopard 01.08-C is chronometer-certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) and drives the hours, minutes, seconds and date functions of the piece. All this can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back.

Final Thoughts

Chopard have a long history with motorsport, most notably the Mille Miglia race which we covered in our release article for this years Mille Miglia collection here, so it stands to reason that the Maison would release a themed edition, like the Bamford Edition ‘Desert Racer’. The collaboration between Chopard, George Bamford and the Bamford Watch Department just seems to work, and together have delivered a good looking, sporty and adventurous watch that on paper, is sturdy and hard wearing.

With its contrasting orange and blacks, it’s not a subtle watch, but by the same token, it’s not outlandish either, and plays in that middle ground where uniqueness meets classic – at least this is what I feel when I look at the wrist shots, but can form a better opinion once I’ve seen it up close and personal, which I hope to soon.

Reference: 168566-3019 – Limited and numbered 50-piece edition

Specification:

• Case: 43mm
• Thickness: 11.43mm
• Case Material: Bead-blasted titanium
• Case back: Exhibition case-back back secured with screws fitted with an orange seal and tinted crystal PVD-treated case-back screws
• Dial: Frosted black dial with cool grey transfers, orange hour-markers and sanded metallised black hour-markers enhanced with black Super-LumiNova®
• Bezel: Titanium bezel with black aluminium inlay and orange numerals
• Crystal: Glare-proofed sapphire crystal
• Water resistance: 100m / 10bar
• Movement: Mechanical self-winding Chopard 01.08-C, pivoting on 40 jewels with a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
• Power reserve: 60 Hours
• Strap: Woven-effect rubber strap with polished folding clasp in DLC bead-blasted steel

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: AUD $16,500

Availability: Available now through Chopard Boutiques. Head to Chopard.com for more details on the piece, and boutique locations

The partnership between Chopard and the Mille Miglia is the longest partnership between a watch brand and a motorsports event in the world in terms of a watch designed and built in association with the event. This year marks the 35th year of the Chopard Mille Miglia, and the 36th year the Maison has been the official time keeper of what Enzo Ferrari called “the most beautiful race in the world“

So inextricably linked is Chopard to the race, that it’s Co-President, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele has raced over 30,000 racing miles in it himself, having personally taken part in the race every year since 1989.

So for this 35th Anniversary of the partnership, and his participation, Chopard have released their 2023 collection of Mille Miglia Classic Chronographs comprising of four new models with colourways personally chosen by Karl-Friedrich himself. Three of the four models are Lucent Steel™ only, with the fourth model a two-tone in Lucent Steel™ and Chopard’s other exclusive metal, Ethical Gold, this time an 18k Yellow Gold on the bezel, crown, chronograph pushers, hands and sub-dial indicators.

Given watches and motorsport are an age old partnership, and there are only a few brands in the world that have as strong a link to racing as Chopard, so it’s no surprise that when designing the new time pieces for 2023, Karl-Friedrich and the designers decided to draw inspiration from the incomparable style of classic cars and the multiple details of their finishes. Taking this one step further, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele has personally selected four colours inspired by race cars for the dials and counters on each piece.

The Lucent Steel™ models feature dials named Verde Chiaro (light green) and Rosso Amarena (cherry red), each with a circular satin-brushed finish, or in Nero Corsa (racing black) with an engine-turned finish. Meanwhile, the bi-material version in Lucent Steel™ and ethical gold has a dial in circular satin-brushed Grigio-Blu (grey blue).

“These colours evoke the paintwork and interiors of classic cars, while the satin-brushing and engine-turning refer to the distinctive backgrounds of dashboard instruments and the texture of upholstery”

For those of you that missed my review on the Chopard Alpine Eagle in Lucent Steel^TM, it is Chopard’s proprietary allow, which is 50% harder than conventional steel, less prone to knocks and scratches and in the words of Chopard – has a luminous, gently reflective appearance that gives it an almost incandescent shimmer. It is also REACH-certified as being responsibly produced with 80% recycled content and naturally anti-allergenic, ensuring it is highly dermo-compatible and easy to wear with no irritation.

All the dials feature prominent white minutes tracks and tachymeter scales – both essential for making speed and distance calculations – while dial markings and hour and minute hands are coated with white Grade XI Super-Luminova^® to ensure the high degree of legibility required when navigating after dark.

The central sweep-seconds hand is red-tipped both for practical and aesthetic purposes – as well as to complement the famous red ‘1000 Miglia’ logo applied to each dial. This is one aspect of the Mille Miglia watches that I’ve always liked, and just like the old adage, “Red cars go faster”, red on a racing chronograph always looks the part!

To add to the vintage style of the pieces, Chopard has elected to make the sapphire crystal “Glassbox” style, which is typical of 70’s era racing chronographs. The domed crystal and steep sides give the watches a nice aesthetic with the added benefit of ease of reading the dial at certain angles.

Knurled, slip resistant pushers have been incorporated into each piece, ensuring that drivers when timing laps can easily operate these and not miss critical stop, start and resets. These are not only practical in any scenario, put add to the look of the watches and their racing links.

The model featuring a Nero Corsa dial is teamed with a rubber strap bearing a distinctive pattern based on the tread of 1960s Dunlop racing tyres, with the other three models fitted with rich brown calfskin leather straps, with a look reminiscent of traditional driving gloves. All four are secured by buckles made from Lucent Steel™.

Under the bonnet and behind the display case back is self winding chronograph movement with 54 hour power reserve beating at 4hz / 28,800vph and is a certified chronometer by the COSC. The movement is good looking and Chopard have done it justice with Côtes de Genève on the rotor, which is emblazoned with Chopard in gold, Perlage on the gear train bridge and striping around the base plate.

“This year’s watches represent the 36^th variation on the collection. Even more than previous ones, they reflect the unique atmosphere of the 1000 Miglia. One of the challenges for this year’s event will be deciding whether to choose a Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph model that complements my car – or to choose a car that complements my favourite version of the watch.” – Karl-Friedrich Scheufele

Final Thoughts

Perhaps that statement above sums up the new Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Collection from Chopard, however, here are my initial thoughts: Classic, good looking chronographs with motorsport styling, design cues that hark back to a vintage era and functional elements that have been designed with drivers in mind.

At 40.5mm and less than 13mm thick, these will fit most people’s wrists and shouldn’t wear too much larger than the numbers suggest. With a reasonable price tag of around $14k AUD for the steel models and $17k for the two-tone, these seem worthy of consideration if you’re in the market for a new racing styled Chronograph. We’ll hold our final verdict until we’ve had a chance to go hands on with them a little later on.

References:

• Ref. 168619-3001 –in Lucent Steel™ with Nero Corsa dial and rubber strap
• Ref. 168619-3003 – in Lucent Steel™ with Rosso Amarena dial and leather strap
• Ref. 168619-3004 – in Lucent Steel™ with Verde Chiaro dial and leather strap
• Ref. 168619-4001 – in Lucent Steel™ and ethical 18-carat yellow gold with Grigio-Blue dial and leather strap

Specification:

• Case: 40.5mm
• Thickness: 12.88mm
• Case Material: Brushed and Polished Lucent Steel™ / Lucent Steel™ and 18k Ethical Yellow Gold
• Case back: Exhibition case-back with the 1000 Miglia motif around the circumference
• Dial: Circular satin-brushed dial in Grigio-Blu, Verde Chiaro & Rosso Amarena or Engine-turned Nero Corsa
• Hands/Indices: Rhodium-plated baton-type hours and minute hands, painted hour markers with white Grade XI Super-LumiNova^®
• Crystal: Domed “Glassbox” sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment
• Water resistance: 50m / 5bar
• Movement: Self-winding automatic chronograph movement
• Power reserve: 54 Hours
• Strap: Brown calf skin strap or black rubber strap with pin buckle in Lucent Steel™

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing:

• Ref. 168619-3001 – Nero Corsa dial and rubber strap: $14,100 AUD
• Ref. 168619-3003/3004 – with Rosso Amarena / Verde Chiaro dials and leather strap: $14,400 AUD
• Ref. 168619-4001 – in Lucent Steel™ and ethical 18-carat yellow gold: $16,900 AUD

Availability: Available now through Chopard boutiques and authorised dealers. Head to Chopard.com for more details and locations.

Chopard is a brand that’s probably not first on people’s list when they think of a steel sports watch. In fact, it may not be even top three. I know it wasn’t for me, and if you’re like me and think about steel sports watches, then your mind probably runs through a range of brands from Rolex, to TAG Heuer, to Omega, Breitling, Tudor, and the like. But maybe, you should think of Chopard?

As the watch community’s lust for steel sports watches continued to rise, Chopard recognised this and introduced the Alpine Eagle in 2019 – a modern re-interpretation of the 1970s St. Moritz, the first timepiece that was created by (now Co-President of Chopard) Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. And it was a good release. The star of the watch was the Iris of the Eagle dial that if you have seen it in person, is mesmerizing. And let me tell you, it is very cool.

For this review, I was lucky enough to get my hands on the two tone variant in Chopard’s 18k Ethical Rose Gold and Lucent Steel. I’ve not been a major lover of two-tone watches, but can appreciate them for what they are. Maybe I’ve just never tried the right two-tone piece on, but slipping this on my wrist, my initial thoughts were, it was ok. But over the week or so, it grew on me massively!

The Design

I feel the best place to start here is the dial. Chopard have given the Alpine Eagle a very unique dial in various colours, but in this case, it was the grey Iris of the Eagle. You really need to see this dial up close to really appreciate it. Chopard have given it a galvanic treatment in brass and combined a sunburst motif with a swirling textured pattern that plays with the light magically. It can be anything from a light grey, to a dark hue in certain light, and as the name suggests, has been designed to imitate the iris of an eagle.

Outside of the dial itself, Chopard have used a combination of Roman numerals for the 3, 6, 9 and 12 markes, and then straight indices for the rest, all filled with good amounts of Super-LumiNova. To test this out, I did charge the lume at night to see how it went, (more to get some nice images of it) and it glows beautifully in an aqua blue colour. However, I found that the lume did not last as long as I would have hoped for, especially compared to if I did the same exercise with my Panerai Luminor or my Rolex Sea-Dweller. These seem to go the distance with ease.

The Alpine Eagle’s overall design is very reminiscent of the St Moritz, with the typical integrated bracelet design that came to trend in the 70’s and the fixed bezel with the 2 screws holding it in place at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. The 18k ethical rose gold offsets the grey dial so well, and leads into the centre links, in the same rose gold breaking up the bracelet. This creates a look on the wrist that is hard to describe. Put in on with a t-shirt and shorts and it dressed down, or dress it up with suit and tie and it will look the part. I mostly wore this with the former – but let me say that sitting down by the marina with this on, sipping a coffee and I feel instantly transported to the French Riviera or the Amalfi Coast.

How It Wears

It’s no secret that integrated steel bracelets wear well due to the absence of a large clasp, and with the Alpine Eagle, this is no different. The bracelet design on the Chopard means it hugs the wrist nicely, and doesn’t catch the hairs on the wrist, which is nice if you’ve got a few like me. The main case sits flush on the wrist, and due to it being a 41mm sized watch, and relatively slim at about 10mm, and almost no lugs, it sits and wears perfectly on my 17-ish cm wrist (depending on the weather!)

It’s not too weighty either, with the size of the watch potentially offsetting the additional weight of the gold in the watch. It is also well balanced too. Set the bracelet to the right size, and it doesn’t seem to move around too much or fall to one side of the other. I like to have a little give in my watches, so I don’t wear them super tight, but on the same hand, I don’t like them slopping around on the wrist either. The Chopard does a good job striking this balance.

Final Thoughts

The Chopard Alpine Eagle in two-tone Lucent Steel and 18k Ethical Rose Gold is definitely a watch worth consideration if you’re in the market for that next piece. It is versatile as a daily wearer and able to be dressed up when needed, and at 41mm, it wears well and is comfortable on the wrist. The rose gold is a subtle colour, and not too in your face, and when paired and contrasted with the Iris of the Eagle dial, just looks the business in any situation.

The only part of the equation I struggled with is the price point. At AUD $35,300 this isn’t a cheap watch, and even when you factor in the rose gold, this still sits well above other two-tone sports watch alternatives and puts this in the realm of Patek and AP models, albeit, not gold or two-tone. However, it is a very good looking watch and is something completely different to more mainstream brands that will turn heads. And maybe, this is where the value comes into play?

Reference: 298600-6001

Specification

• Case: 41mm, 10mm thick, 47mm lug to lug
• Case:18-carat eithical rose gold and lucent steel
• Dial: Grey with a galvanic treatment – finish design inspired by the iris of the eagle
• Hands/Indices: Applied gilded Roman numerals and hour markers coated with Super-LumiNova
• Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
• Water resistance: 100m (10BAR)
• Movement: In House CHOPARD 01.01-C self winding mechanical movement. 28,800 VPH / 4Hz and 31 Jewels
• Power reserve: 60 hours
• Bracelet: Lucent Steel A223 tapering bracelet with satin-brushed wide link and sides, polished central links in 18k Ethical Rose Gold and triple folding clasp with safety pushers

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $35,300

Availability: Available through Chopard Boutiques. For more info, head to chopard.com

This latest update to the Alpine Eagle collection see’s the brand unveil a new dial colour for the 41mm three-hander model. The Alpine Eagle Japan Limited Edition is a 100-piece timepiece with a pure “SHIKKOKU” dial. A host of colours exist for the Alpine Eagle already, ranging from the Aletsch blue, pitch black, and Bernina grey to the Monte Rosa pink. This is however the first time the Alpine Eagle is presented in a monochrome look, where the colour of the dial is carried out to the rest of the elements and functions on the dial.

The Alpine Eagle Japan Limited Edition is presented in a 41mm Lucent Steel™ case. This is not new to this model as most of the watches in the Alpine Eagle collection is offered with this, however, it is a metal that is exclusively designed by Chopard. Lucent Steel™ uses a sustainable design approach to creat steel, as it is made from 80% recycled material. Lucent Steel™ has an anti-allergenic composition which makes its properties similar to that of surgical steel and therefore highly dermo-compatible. Thanks to its material composition, it is 50% more resistant to abrasion and also has a unique hardness.

Matching the technical attributes of this material is aesthetic appeal. Lucent Steel™ has a crystal structure that boasts superior homogeneity, which enables the material to produce shimmering effects. In other words, the case shines beautifully under light and at different angles. The bracelet flows with the case design and finishes and is also made from Lucent Steel™ material to provide a technical feat of execution and style.

Nature is the muse for Chopard’s Alpine Eagle dial. The dial is embellished with a sunburst motif and has a pattern that is inspired by the iris of an eagle. Other subtle details are present on the dial which refer back to the eagle and its appearance. For instance, the counterweight on the second hand is shaped like an eagle’s feather, while the whole design of the second-hand takes on the form of an arrow.

The “SHIKKOKI” dial colour has been inspired by a palette of natural colours, and it brings about beautiful lacquerware coatings which are true to Japanese culture and its ancestral crafts. SHIKKOKU is considered to be one of the darkest shades of black, although Ventablack may have the title for the darkest black available today. SHIKKOKU is also attached to a lot of zen characteristics and is a symbol of nature, profound mystery and also tranquillity.

The hour indices, hour, minutes and seconds hands have all been done in tone-on-tone black, which matches the dial beautifully. With these elements on the dial providing a monochrome look to the watch, it really lets the iris eagle eye pattern stand out. This does not mean however that the readability of the dial is hindered, as Chopard have used grey Superlumi-Nova on the indices and hands, which lets it stand out in a subtle way in what is otherwise a full black dial.

Chopard has used their 01.01-C self-winding movement which has featured in other Alpine Eagle 41mm models. This particular movement has been redesigned so that the date mechanism is removed, which opens up the dial to a more minimalistic look. The movement can be viewed from the case back, however, the glass is tinted which mimics the grey monochrome appearance you see on the dial. The movement is able to provide a power reserve of 60 hours, and it also comes with a stop-second function which allows the wearer to set the time to the nearest second.

Overall, we like the look of this new Chopard Alpine Eagle Japan Limited Edition. Comparing it to the rest of the Alpine Eagle models, this timepiece stands out because of its full monochrome dial, against what is an otherwise colourful collection. This allows for the dial pattern to be more noticeable as well, although the existing blue dial variant of the Alpine Eagle 41mm does a great job of this too. The final touch to this limited series model is the case and bracelet being made from Lucent Steel™, providing a contrasting shining effect on an all-black dial.

Reference: 298600-3021

Specification

• Case: 41.0 mm
• Case Material: Stainless Steel (Lucent Steel™)
• Dial: “SHIKKOKU”
• Crystal: Slightly domed sapphire crystal
• Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
• Movement: CHOPARD 01.15-C
• Power reserve: Minimum 60 hours
• Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with clasp (Lucent Steel™).

Availability: April 2023 (Exclusively from Japan)

International Recommended Retail Pricing: EUR 16,600

Well, maybe not dead, but its popularity has certainly waned over the last few years. Admittedly, I’ve never really been a dress watch type of guy. I’ve always preferred the sports watches over anything else. Maybe because my lifestyle in Queensland is more outdoors and casual, but even before I lived here, back in Sydney I gravitated towards the steel sports watches. I assume it’s mostly because back in the early 2000’s many successful people I knew wore Rolexes, Omega’s, Breitling’s and Panerai’s, and this coupled with movie characters and advertising of people I looked up to, wore the same. And who says ads don’t work?

Putting this aside, the last few years has seen a definite trend towards sports watches, and away from dress watches. COVID has definitely played a part in this – with many people working from home and not the office. Prior to this, if you worked in a corporate environment with a suit, a dress watch made complete sense. All of a sudden, you’re at home in T-shirts and shorts, or whatever was the most comfortable to sit for hours on end at your kitchen table, lounge, outdoor entertaining area, or really where ever. A dress watch here didn’t make sense anymore. Now we’re out of COVID, and life seems to be back to a relative normal, and people are back in the office (at least part of the week), we should be seeing dress watches more right? It appears it’s not so much the case.

Changing Trends

Awards shows are always a good gauge on fashion trends, and watches, like it or not, are part of modern day fashion. And there certainly is a trend to see guys in suits sporting steel sports, or precious metal sports watches, not the typical understated watch on a nice leather strap, 40mm and under. You now see AP, Rolex, Patek, and even most recently, Dwayne Johnson rocking a TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 for the Academy Awards as a poetic nod to the fake TAG he wore when he was broke in his “7 Bucks” days, a departure from his standard go to of AP or Panerai in precious metal. But again, this proves my point, these are not dress watches either, albeit they are slightly more dressy than an Aquaracer!

Speaking to a few people in the know, they tend to agree. Dress watch sales have been in decline. Sports watches are taking their place, and for some brands, models that are hybrid dress/sports with interchangeable straps are becoming more popular. And this makes sense. Why spend good money on a dress watch that you may only wear every now and then (assuming you’re not in a suit and tie all day) when you can purchase a watch that is versatile and with the change of a strap, you can change the look? I know I’m gravitating towards this more and more.

The other theory I had was that people are just more casual these days. People want to be comfortable and this is extending into all areas of their lives. This can be seen across all areas of the luxury market. Luxury street wear is now more popular than ever, and replacing more formal attire in this sector.

Casual Luxury

An article from the New York Times in August of 2021 (which you can read here) highlighted this perfectly. Wall Street, the bastion of wealth and also formality had dressed down! The Suits were no longer in suits. If this wasn’t a sign I don’t know what was. And this trend permeated across the globe. Australia was not immune and I would suggest, was adopted a lot quicker than in other countries.

Luxury had to follow. Now I don’t know where I heard the term, or maybe I just came up with it myself, but “Casual Luxury” is now in vogue. LV back packs, Hugo Boss sneakers, Gucci bomber jackets and of course, watches. And now, it seems that almost anything goes. An IWC Pilot 41 Chronograph with a suit? Sure! Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time on rubber for a nice dinner out? Yep! And Rolex, AP and Patek Philippe are go to pieces for any occasion, and that is part of the appeal of a luxury sports watch. Dress a Submariner, Royal Oak or Nautilus up or down. To be honest, I know I would.

The data would also suggest this is the case as well. Just take a look at the latest Morgan Stanley figures for the Swiss Watch industry in 2022. Brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre who are predominantly known for their dress watches have slid from their position at #10 in 2017 to #14 in 2022, Bulgari, who up until recent years focused on dress watches, have slid from #15 in 2017 to out of the Top 20 in 2022. And it’s no surprise that Chopard, who are known for their luxury jewellery and watches of a more dressy and formal nature have doubled down on their sports watch range, most notably with the hit that is the Alpine Eagle – a great sports watch that is easily dressed up or down.

The Dress Watch Dilemma

I have had the pleasure of trying on and testing numerous dress watches over the past year or so, and some I loved, some not so much. My favourite of late was the Glashuette Original PanoMaticLuna. A brilliant dress watch, finished superbly and a great, and more affordable alternative to the A Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Moonshpase. I’d buy this in a heartbeat. If I only had the occasion to wear it! And these days, I don’t go to too many formal occasions, and for any watch related event, I’m normally wearing something from the brand or if not, and not too formal (most event’s aren’t too formal), my Zenith on the steel bracelet fits the bill.

Continuing on this thought path, I would now tend to look for a watch that I can wear often, if not everyday. I went to a formal event this weekend actually, and was lent a good friend’s Rolex Daytona in Rose Gold on Oysterflex. This was perfect for the event, looked the part and you feel a million dollars wearing it. And this is his almost everyday watch. Why? because it dresses up just as well as it dresses down. And this is what I’m now considering for my next purchase. A piece that is versatile, and can be either dressed up, or down. Not a big watch, most probably 40mm and not too thick, and preferably with the ability to change the strap or bracelet easily. A watch that can go from the boardroom to the beach to black tie. Am I asking too much?

Final Thoughts

But this does bring me back to the original question. Is the dress watch dead? Maybe for now, with the time we’re living in and the trends that are around today it is. Or maybe it’s just hibernating, waiting to be woken up when times have changed. And this is what fashion does. It ebbs and flows, it’s cyclical. Trends comes and go, and they come back around again. So maybe in the not too distant future, we’ll all be dressing up again, heading to work in suits and ties, when going out or travelling, putting on our Sunday best. But for now, my Sunday best is a pair of shorts and a Polo shirt, and on my wrist is a sports watch. And I’m perfectly ok with this!

We always love to know what you think. Drop a comment in the comments section below and tell us if you agree or not? We’d love to hear your thoughts.

The Happy Sport watch returns in a version that is daintier than ever with a 25 mm case celebrating the spirit of jewellery watches and staging the wonders of five dancing diamonds. The collection has something to suit any taste, with 4 colour-ways on the dials – Silver, pink, green and blue with a steel case, and then a combination of Steel and Gold variants with Silver sun-burst dials.

The star of the show are the five free diamonds, placed between 2 crystals – one above the dial and hands, the other the outer case. This gives the diamonds room to move and ‘dance’ around the dial, using the wearer’s movement to spin them around. This is a bit of fun and really captures the Joie de Vivre spirit that Chopard envisions.

This Happy Sport 25 mm has retained several of the collection’s key characteristics, including the deliberate association of materials belonging to radically different registers: steel, ethical gold and diamonds. According to Chopard;

There are seven models to chose from; four in steel, one two-tone steel and gold, one steel with diamond set bezel and one in two-tone steel and gold with diamond bezel. Adding to this, the colour variants on the dials, all in a satin brushed sun-burst finish are fresh and pop, adding to the fun of the collection. So there is really a model to suit everyone’s tastes.

The four steel variants, plus the standard two-tone have the unique double-tour wrap around leather strap, giving these models a more sporty look. The two diamond set models have a more traditional blue alligator strap with pin buckle, essentially making these more of a “dress” watch.

Each of the five dancing diamonds tally up to 0.09 carats, with the diamond bezel versions having a total of 0.69 carats (including the dancing diamonds).

Chopard have deliberately kept the size and proportions of the Happy Sport dainty – perfect for those ladies with smaller wrists, or wanting a watch that is elegant and chic. The combination of the size, plus the double-tour strap does make this a great option for those wanting a versatile watch, casual but dressy when it needs to be.

Final Thoughts

The new Chopard Happy Sport collection are just fun, and I can see why Chopard have described the Happy Sports’ spirit as a little bit of Joie de Vivre. The collection is sporty, with the wrap around strap on the non diamond set bezel models, giving it that more casual look that can be dressed up if needed, and with the diamond set bezel options, a more elegant and refined model for those special occasions, still with the Joie de Vivre spirit I might add.

The satin finished, sun brushed dials are great and the colours are not too overpowering. From the elegant silver, to the more fun soft pink and green dials that have colour matched leather straps, it gives you the option to choose a watch that can be paired with everything, or a statement piece that says something about you. Either way, you shouldn’t be disappointed. Showing these models to my wife, she loved them and thought they were fun and cool. And if she is sold, then so am I!

References:

Ref. 278620-3001, 3004, 3005, 3006 (Steel models), Ref. 278620-3002 (Steel with diamond set bezel), Ref. 278620-6001 (two-tone rose gold), Ref. 278620-6002 (two-tone rose gold with diamond set bezel)

Specification:

• Case: 25mm, 8.74mm thick
• Case Material: Steel, Steel and 18k Ethical Rose Gold
• Dial: Satin finished sun brushed in Silver, blue, pink and green with 5 dancing diamonds
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal, scratch resistant with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 30m / 3bar
• Movement: Chopard Quartz Movement
• Strap: Iridescent blue alligator leather strap (on versions with a dimond-set bezel) or double tour midnight calfskin strap (on versions with a polished bezel)

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing:

• Steel and polished bezel – $7,090,
• Steel and ethical 18-carat rose gold – $8,910,
• Steel with diamond-set bezel – $14,200,
• Steel and ethical 18-carat rose gold with diamond-set bezel – $16,000

Availability: Contact your local Chopard Authorised Dealer or Boutique, and for more information, head to chopard.com

Each year, the watch world waits to see what wonders come out of the industry’s premier trade show. Some years we see brilliance, and others years not so much. I feel that this year was a good year for the watch world, and we saw some really great pieces launched, some cool novelties and some brands just did some nice and timely updates to their core models. And from all reports, it seems that most commentators felt the same. So without further ado, here are my top 12 picks.

Piaget’s Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

Whilst Piaget added two new Perpetual Calendar models to their Polo line, my pick was the Rose gold and green. It just looks great, and builds on their release from earlier in year. At 8.65mm, it’s thin, and a the movement is stunning and complex. which can be seen through there caseback.

The fact that Piaget has also given it the quick change SingleTouch system, to swap out the green alligator or rubber strap just adds to this allowing you change the look, depending on your mood. At AUD $116,000, it’s not cheap, but you get a lot of watch for this!

You can read all about it here.

Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

Panerai went back to their roots this year, and told us their Storia Leggendaria. With this, bringing us the new Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 days) in hand finished eSteel.

Whilst not the most techically impressive, although it is an 8-day manual wind, so this is pretty decent, these are cool looking, and do hark back to their original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Also, each model is hand finished to give it the distressed look, so essentially, all unique!

Check out our write up about it here

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

Jaeger-LeCoultre focused on their Reverso Tribute line this year, and some of their models was absolutely fantastic. One of which was their Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which gives you 2 great watches in one!

Whilst each model looked stunning, my pic was the Pink Gold variant. The way the details contrast on the chronograph face, along with the “floating” look of the dial and bottom register are second to none!

For more on this, click here.

Hermes H08 In Rose Gold & Titanium

The Hermes H08 in Rose Gold and Titanium was a surprise for me. I’m not normally a fan of Hermes watches, but this model, in this combination jut works, and looks both casual, and just a little bit formal – it’s a paradox!

Hermes have used a good mix of Rose gold, titanium and black ceramic, and paired with the black rubber strap and the multi-faceted dial, all works together and is something a little different to the norm.

You can check out our write up on it here

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN “Oceana”

I’m a sucker for a good pilot’s watch, and need to add one back into the collection. And the new IWC Pilot’s Chrono 41mm in Oceana Blue is a hot contender. Although, speaking to the IWC boutique, there’s not a lot of detail on when this will be in, so I guess I’ll have to wait.

IWC have done some great releases in coloured ceramic and this is just the next to come out, and with the denim strap, looks like the perfect casual summer watch. Blending this with IWC’s DNA in pilots watches and you’ve a great piece.

Fly over to our write up on it here

Tudor Black Bay 41 Burgundy Dial

Tudor are a little more “edgy” than their big sister, but sometimes, a nice update is all you need. The Tudor Black Bay 41 with the burgundy dial was just this. Nothing ground-breaking, but a slimmer case, refined details on the dial and a choice now of three different bracelet/strap options with their T-Fit micro adjust.

Tudor have also made the movement just that little bit better – now Master Chronometer certified to 0/+5s per day and keeping the 70 hour power reserve. What more could you ask for?

For more details, check it out here

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm XPS

Chopard’s new Alpine Eagle in Lucent Steel and a stunning Monte Rosa pink dial and small seconds was one of those watches where Chopard took an already good watch and made it better! The addition of the small seconds is a nice touch, and the dial is just a stunning colour.

In this model, you now the calibre L.U.C 96.40-L movement, meaning the watch has slimmed down to just 8mm thick and the movement is beautiful with an 18k micro rotor powering it.

You can find out more about this model here

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

The Odysseus Chronograph was one of the more truly unique releases at this years event, and it was a first for the brand, having never done an automatic chronograph before now.

One of the most interesting aspects of the Odysseus Chronograph is the dial configuration using the outer track and the central seconds and minutes hands to tell the elapsed time, rather than sub dials. Plus the re-set to zero function is pretty cool, and something not seen before.

You can read all about it here

Rolex Yacht-Master Titanium

Rolex aren’t normally known for their innovative releases, but this year, they’ve come out with a first for The Crown – a sports watch in Titanium in the form of the Yacht-Master in 42mm. This is a great move from Rolex, adding another variant to the Yacht-Master line, and giving people a watch that is less dressy than the standard 40mm models, and a completely different look to the precious metal models.

It’s a great stealthy looking sports watch, and due to the titanium, is light and durable and fit for the purpose it was designed for, as we saw when Sir Ben Ainslie wore the prototype a couple of years back – leaving the world waiting for its release!

Check out my thoughts on the Yacht-Master Ti here

Grand Seiko Tentagraph

Grand Seiko have never done a fully mechanical chronograph before, having limited this complication to their spring drive models. But this year, they released a fairly under the radar chronograph that is fully mechanical. However, look at the details and its more impressive than it would initially seem.

A Ten beats per seconds chronograph, accurate to -3/+5s per day, tested over 20 days, housed in an all titanium case and finished to the standards that you expect from Grand Seiko. Its all in the small details, and this is what makes this watch a sleeper!

To check out the full write up, click here

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X

This was probably the craziest watch release this year (I cold be wrong), but you’d expect nothing less from Roger Dubuis. The Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X is designed in the theme of the new limited edition 50th anniversary Lamborghini Countach LPI 800-4. Hence the name.

Lamborghini design cues are all over this watch, from the engine case between the 90° V-Shape Double Flying Tourbillon, to the way the case looks like the wheels and tyres. It’s a serious piece of kit, to go with a serious car. But not for us mere mortals at $1,210,000 and limited to 8 pieces, I won’t be lining up anytime soon!

Check out the full write up and pics here

Bell & Ross Diver White Bronze

This may not have been on many people’s top 12, but I’ve included it for this reason. Bell & Ross have created a driver with a difference, and whilst not vintage in style, it’s got vintage style cues that just work with the overall design aesthetic.

The bronze case, paired with the opaline dial and brown strap give it a unique look, and the fact that it is ISO-6425 complied means it’s a true divers watch. It may not be for everyone, but that in my eyes isn’t a bad thing, as it means you probably won’t see many in the wild, and that’s a talking point in my mind!

Check out our coverage of it here

Well that’s it for another year of Watches and Wonders. It was a great show this year, and there were some brilliant releases, and not so brilliant releases. Whilst I couldn’t cover all of the releases here (it wouldn’t be a top 12 if I could!), you can check out all of the brands and models covered at Watches and Wonder 2023 here.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle over the past few years has put the historic brand that Louis-Ulysee Chopard created over 160 years ago back on the map for the contemporary watch collector. An integrated steel sports watch that was a re-interpretation of the St Moritz line from 1980, it was an instant hit at release and at the centre of this, that “Iris of the Eagle” dial that is stunning, in a range of colours that changes in different light.

This year, Chopard has released yet another incarnation of the Alpine Eagle, the Apline Eagle 41 XPS. However, this isn’t just a new colourway variant. Chopard has given the Alpine Eagle a new movement in the form of the the L.U.C 96.40-L movement, which is only 3mm think, almost 2mm thinner than the previous Chopard 01.01-C calibre, and complete with 22 carat yellow gold micro rotor. The L.U.C 96.40-L movement also has a 65hr power reserve that comes from the twin stacked barrels and is both COSC and receives the Poinçon de Genève hallmark to top this off!

Due to the slimness of the new L.U.C movement, Chopard has been able to slim the watch case down to just 8 mm thick, losing several millimetres from the previous models. In addition, the sides and bezel have been trimmed compared to a classic Alpine Eagle Large model, resulting in a wider dial. Like the classic Alpine Eagle models, the case and bracelet is made from Chopard’s unique Lucent Steel A223, an innovative steel alloy composed of 85% recycled materials, developed by Chopard for its anti-allergenic virtues, its robustness and its incomparable brilliance achieved through a meticulous recasting process.

The standout however, aside from the L.U.C 96.40-L Movement is that dial! Chopard calls this Monte Rosa Pink, and is inspired by the palette of natural colours composing the beauty of the Alpine landscape after which the second highest mountain range in the Alps is named. Like previous models, the dial mimics the iris of the eagle, and is textured on a brass base.

To offset the gold dial, Chopard has given the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS white gold hands, Roman numerals and applied indices, all of which are enhanced with Grade X1 Super-LumiNova^® – which is 60% more luminous than traditional LumiNova and more resistant to ageing. It also gives the watch a slightly more luxurious feel, compared to the Rhodium plated numerals and indices on the original 41mm steel models.

Another new feature is the small seconds hand, sitting in the 6 O’clock position. Chopard have broken up the aesthetic of the Iris of the Eagle dial via this, and have given it a multi-textured finish – a grained circular pattern on the inner, with seconds track on the media blasted outer, all inset in a white gold ring to offset this from the main dial.

All in all, Chopard have taken a modern classic and enhanced it for the better. A thinner case that is more trimmed and taught, new in-house movement complete with COSC and Poinçon de Genève certification, wider dial to show off the Iris of the Eagle and encased in their proprietary Lucent Steel. This is one piece that I’ll be dying to try on at the first chance, and hopefully, will be just as, if not better than the current 41mm Alpine Eagle collection.

Reference: 298623-3001

Specification

• Case: 42mm, 8mm Thick
• Case: Polished and brushed finished slucent steel A223
• Dial: Monte Rosa Pink colour achieved by galvanic treatment, made of brass stamped with a radiating pattern inspired by the iris of an eagle
• Hands/Indices: Applied white gold hour-markers and numerals with baton-type hours and minutes hands enhanced with Grade X1 Super-LumiNova^®
• Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
• Water resistance: 100m (10BAR)
• Movement: In House L.U.C 96.40-L movement, 3mm thick with 22 carat yellow gold micro-rotor. Two stacked barrels – Chopard Twin technology, bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif and variable-inertia balance, balance-spring with Phillips terminal curve
• Power reserve: 65 hours
• Bracelet: Lucent Steel A223 tapering bracelet with satin-brushed wide link and sides, polished central cap and triple folding clasp with safety pushers

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $35,800

Availability: Available for delivery from July/August 2023 through Chopard Boutiques and Authorised Dealers. For more info, head to chopard.com