The third part of this series looks at one of the rarest watchmaking escapements with Girard-Perregaux’s design and how they came up with a revolutionary way to improve the modern escapement design. Much like Ulysse Nardin’s design for their Anchor Escapement, Girard-Perregaux also employs blades that buckle to release tension. Girard-Perregaux’s constant force escapement design has been around for almost a decade, but that doesn’t make it any less important in the modern world of horology.

To first create the constant escapement, Girard-Perregaux looked at the shortcomings of the modern lever escapement. The first is the chronometric rate drop due to the watch being adjusted and having the mainspring unwind again, which leads to a loss in precision due to amplitude changes. The second problem is the amount of friction. With the standard lever escapement design, the lever touches the escape wheel, with the pallets then locking and unlocking against the escape wheel’s teeth. Friction also exists when the lever touches the balance wheel. Not only does more friction means less accuracy in the long run, but the more parts there are that cause friction the more oil and regular maintenance required.

Girard-Perregaux’s ingenious solution to these problems is presented with their Constant Escapement. The problem of precision is mitigated thanks to the Constant Escapement’s consistent power output, and with a consistent amplitude, a constant force is given. Like Ulysse Nardin’s Anchor Escapement (see below), the Constant Escapement is able to almost minimise friction to zero. The key feature that helps this occur is the buckle blade made from silicon.

Girard-Perregaux’s Constant Escapement also uses two escape wheels, a feature not seen in too many movements. An ultra-precise lever is used as the “locking and unlocking” on the teeth of the escape wheels, with this increased precision then further reducing the amount of friction involved.

So how did the idea of the Constant Escapement first come to fruition? Funnily enough, the story of the constant escapement starts with Rolex and a research and development engineer, Nicolas Déhon, that dedicated almost 10 years of his life to this design. TheWatchBox did an interview with Nicolas Déhon, in which he states how the idea for a new escapement design came to him.

“Dehon was commuting by train when he had an epiphany while absentmindedly flicking his ticket between his fingers. A blade spring, kept slightly flexed between two fixed points, could like his train ticket be made to snap back and forth, delivering a predictable pulse of energy each time. If the bit of cardboard between his fingers could be transformed into a source of energy for balance, it might be the answer to the constant force riddle.

The process of development began, and though Dehon and Rolex were able to cobble together a prototype, and even took out a patent for this constant force escapement (granted in 1999) its design was still slightly ahead of its time. The materials needed to build a reliable and effective version were not available.”

This unfortunately was one of the reasons why Rolex didn’t put the escapement into production. The brand is all about reliability, and with the material knowledge available at the time of development, Rolex wasn’t able to produce a reliable enough escapement. The Constant Escapement, however, once it’s set up properly with the right materials, is one of the most reliable and precise escapements available.

The year 2008 is when silicon made its way into the watchmaking world, with research into using silicon in escapements taking place at the Swiss CSEM (Centre Suisse d’Electronique et Microtechnique). This lab was essentially funded by Rolex, Patek, and Swatch Group. Ulysse Nardin had their own work carried out on the use of silicon which they were able to utilise in their Anchor Escapement and their very first Freak timepiece. It wasn’t until Girard-Perregaux came along that Silicon would be considered the ideal material to revive the Constant Escapement. After several years of research and development, Girard-Perregaux was able to create a working prototype of the Constant Escapement and fit it into a working timepiece.

How Does Girard-Perregaux’s Constant Escapement Work?

The unique design of the Constant Escapement is certainly intriguing, especially the wing-like spring frame. There is a purpose to all the design elements, however. On either side of the wing-shaped structure is a connection of a thinner-than-human hair (6 times thinner!) buckled blade. It runs along the horizontal span of the “wings”. This ultra-thin buckled blade is how Girard-Perregaux was able to make the Constant Escapement work.

At either point of the spring frame, the buckle blade will sit straight when at rest. There are two “impulse levers” which are connected to the buckle blade on either side of the “wings”. When these impulse levers move up and down, they release a micro millijoule. Even with such a tiny release of force, it’s able to increase the power reserve drastically.

The impulse levers move as the escape wheels turn. The lever and impulse levers are all made of one part, which means they all act in unison. When the lever moves, the impulse levers will move up or down on either side. Putting this into practical use, the escape wheels and lever act in the traditional sense of Lever Escapement (which you can read here). When the right escape wheel turns, the lever will lock into the teeth of the wheels. As the right escape wheel moves again, it will unlock and release, which then swings the lever onto the left escape wheel, and then locks onto that wheel’s teeth. This process is then repeated back and forth like the lever escapement design.

As the lever and two impulse levers are all made of a single part and connected together, as the lever swings back and forth from the two escape wheels, each of the impulse wheels will move up and down (as left goes up right goes down etc). This then proves a minuscule in movement to the ultra-thin silicone buckle blade which is what ultimately gives the watch the power.

Girard-Perregaux designed quite a few watches with their Constant Escapement mechanism, with the most notable timepiece being the Constant Escapement LM. Design to showcase fully the Constant Escapement mechanism, this timepiece was stunning work of art. The Initial L.M stood for Luigi Macaluso (1948 – 2010) who acted as president for the Sowing Group which owned Girard-Perregaux. He was also the that pushed for this movement to be made.

This particular timepiece featured more than just the impressive Constant Escapement. The GP09100 movement in which the Constant Escapement sits featured two double barrels, which had springs that measured a total length of 3 meters when unraveled. This equated to a total of 7 days of power reserve! Combined with the ultra-precision of Girard-Perregaux’s Constant Escapement, saying that this movement is impressive is an understatement.

Girard-Perregaux’s Constant Escapement changed the way escapement design is viewed for high-end luxury timepieces. The escapement was made possible thanks to the early work of Nicolas Déhon, and if silicon material knowledge had been around at the time of his research and development into the escapement, Rolex will have been the first to create a reliable Constant Escapement. It was, however, Girard-Perregaux that took the onus and finished the task but used their own unique design and knowledge of silicon to create the buckle blade.

Keep an eye out for our next article in this escapement series, where we will look at the design of Charles Frodsham Double Escapement.

This 15th-anniversary edition is limited to a number of just 50 pieces and comes housed in a 42mm 18-carat pink gold case. The timepiece will be sold exclusively through the retailer’s boutiques. The combination of 18-carat pink gold with this luscious green colored dial makes for one eye-catching timepiece. Like the other timepieces in the Girard-Perregaux Laureato lineup, the brand references design codes from its 1975 Laureato model.

The 18-carat pink gold is carried over to Girard-Perregaux’s iconic octagonal bezel which sits on top of a circular plinth that then sits above the angular tonneau-shaped case design. 18-carat pink gold is also used for the integrated bracelet. The crown and chronograph pushers have all been made from 18-carat gold to keep this uniform material all the way around. Throughout this watch, a mixture of polished and satin-finished surfaces is combined, which gives a contrasting aesthetic.

The green dial comes with a sunray finish which is further enhanced by the Clous de Paris motif. The sub-dials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock only have the sunray finish, which allows them to stand out nicely against the motif of the dial. Two chronograph counters and a small seconds display make up the sub-dial layout. Completing the functionality of the timepiece is a date window played between the 4 and 5 o’clock hour indices. The dial comes with baton-style hour indices and hands, which have also been donned in 18-carat pink gold. This is done to not only match the case and bracelet but also because, against the green dial, the 18-carat pink gold is very aesthetic.

Girard-Perregaux chose the colour green as it is synonymous with PMT The Hour Glass. The colour green brings forth the significance of renewal and the start of a new era, which is a metaphor for PMT The Hour Glass itself, as the retailer looks forward to the next 15 years and beyond.

Beating at the heart of this latest Laureato Chronograph model is the brand’s in-house automatic Calibre GP03300-2203 movement. The movement operates at a high frequency of 4Hz (28, 800 VpH) and gives out a decent power reserve of approximately 46 hours. The case back is closed, however, does come with an inscription marked “One of 50” referencing the timepiece’s limited run.

The combination of 18-carat pink gold with the green dial gives a great elegant and stylish look. Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Girard-Perregaux loves this new timepiece not only for its design but also what it represents by stating “We value our relationship with PMT The Hour Glass as the company shares many of our values. Now celebrating its 15th anniversary, we are delighted to mark the occasion by releasing a beautiful limited-edition version of our legendary Laureato. We look forward to celebrating more milestones together in years to come.”

Reference: 81020-5-32-1GM

Specification

• Case: 42mm
• Case Material: 18-carat Pink gold
• Dial: Sunray green with a ‘Clous de Paris’ pattern.
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating.
• Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
• Movement: Automatic Calibre GP03300-2203
• Power reserve: Approx. 46 hours
• Strap: 18-carat Pink gold bracelet.

Availability: June 2023, Exclusively through PMT The Hour Glass Retailer.

International Recommended Retail Pricing:  CHF 65, 000

The two companies individually have created stunning products that have stood the test of time. Not just for visual appeal, the mechanics of both the cars and watches have been fine-tuned to deliver performance for the highest level. This latest collaboration is exactly that. The latest Girard-Perregaux Laureato Aston Martin edition is created with a green ceramic case and bracelet, a first for the Laureato timepiece.

What’s so significant about the colour green that Girard-Perregaux decided to make this new Laureato with it from head to toe? We have to trace back all the way to 1900 to a race that took place in France, the Gordon Bennet Cup. For this race, cars would negotiate public roads between Paris and Lyon. At first, different colours were used on the cars based on the nationality of the driver. This would then soon change to that the colours represented the nationality of the racing team. This meant that Italian cars were red, French cars were blue, Belgian cars were yellow, German cars were white/silver, and British cars were green! This colour scheme has stayed intact to this date and is now being used by Aston Martin for their cars.

This latest version of the Laureato comes with an ultra-modern ceramic case (42mm and 38mm) and bracelet whilst retaining the iconic tonneau shape with the octagonal bezel. The use of ceramic material makes this case lightweight, thanks to zirconium oxide and metallic oxides within the material. Using metallic oxides is what gives the green hue we see on the case and bracelet. Zirconium oxide is made of an extremely fine powder, which is made of micro-beads. The zirconium oxide on the case and bracelet give it a homogenous appearance. The green ceramic components of the timepiece also provide incredible scratch resistance, as the ceramic material is up to seven times harder than steel. This will ensure that the new Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition will retain its showroom appeal and finish for many years to come!

The design of the watch takes elements that are found in Aston Martin cars. For example, the lightweight construction of the cars is translated to the skeletonised ‘baton’ type hour and minute hands, providing lightweight with functionality. The watch dial also has a cross-hatch pattern. This is inspired by the diamond-like pattern in the “AM” logo for Aston Martin during 1921-1926. More relevant today, however, is the cross-hatch pattern found in the quilted seats in Aston Martin’s high-performance vehicles.

In regards to the design of this latest Laureato, Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Girard-Perregaux, states, “From the outset, the design of the Laureato was distinctive, yet cohesive. Its styling encompassed geometric, clean-cut lines while exhibiting a slightly gentle character. Contrasting polished and satin-finished surfaces, an ergonomically integrated bracelet and, of course, as always, an in-house movement is the essential ingredients that have made the Laureato a remarkable success. The same ingredients are much in evidence with the new Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition, along with the addition of an interesting, highly contemporary material.”

Chief Creative Officer at Aston Martin Lagonda shared a similar sentiment as he added that “Our goal was to conceive an advanced luxury product. Patrick and I spent a lot of time talking about the folklore of the Laureato and the design play between the shape and proportion of its iconic bezel. When he shared GP’s exploration into the optical properties of technical ceramics, micro-beads and microns, I became quite enchanted by this idea of the past becoming the future. We’re always exploring combinations of technology, colour, and materials in Aston Martin sports cars to enrich performance, functionality and owner enjoyment. Together we’ve fused these ideas and attributes to generate this cool new Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition”.

The engines behind the new Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition differ depending on the case size. The 42mm comes equipped with the brand’s Calibre GP01800 movement, which operates at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800VpH) and gives out a power reserve of 54 hours. The 38mm model is given the GP03300 Calibre movement, which also operates at 4Hz, however this time, only 46 hours of power reserve. Both timepieces come with open case backs to showcase the in-house self-winding movements. The movements come beautifully decorated with circular-grained features on the main plate, while other parts of the movement get bevelling, mirror-polishing, satin finish, snailing and sunray finishes.

The timeless design of the Laureato has attracted many watch aficionados, just like the iconic design of Aston Martin to car enthusiasts and collectors. Both go hand in hand when thinking of attributes such as elegance, quality and performance. Now, this is brought together in one masterful creation. With the Laureato now getting to wear Aston Martin’s iconic green, the new Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Limited Edition is sure to be loved by fans of both brands.

References: 42mm (81010-32-3081-1CX) & 38mm (81005-32-3080-1CX)

Specification:

• Case: 42mm & 38mm
• Case Material: Ceramic green
• Dial: Cross-hatch pattern green dial
• Crystal: Curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 100 m
• Movement: Automatic GP01800 & Automatic GP03300
• Power reserve: 54 hours for 42mm and 46 hours for 38mm case size
• Bracelet/Strap: Green ceramic

International Recommended Retail Price: 25,800 USD for 42mm and 25,000 USD for 38mm

Availability: TBA

The creation of this dial and the way it plays with light shows Maison’s vast experience in mastering light. An iconic design for Girard-Perregaux and the Laureato collection is within the dial, and how it’s simply not one-dimensional as it encompasses a Clous de Paris Motif. This traditional pattern is composed of multiple pyramidal structures which engage with light, that show tiny pockets of shade and brilliance. Even though on paper the dial is stated as simply “copper” it is far more than that when viewed in person. The colour of the dial can vary from a tawny brown shade to a pink-toned gold, with multiple other shades in between. 

While the previous Laureato model that was released had a case size of 42mm, this latest version brings back the 38mm. The model is also made to be unisex so that both genders can enjoy this beautiful new creation. The case is made from stainless steel with polished and satin finishes and also features the iconic octagonal bezel. As standard, the Laureato 38mm is presented with a steel polished and satin-finished bracelet, which matches and blends with the case in fluid-like motion thanks to the integrated bracelet. 

The dial, while being a simple three-hander, has so much detail to offer. Starting with the GP logo at the 12 o’clock position, which is donned in golden hues to match the background. The baton-style hour indices have white Superlumi-Nova, which makes the markers stand out beautifully against the copper backdrop. To match this, the hour and minute hands have been styled similarly. To match the copper and other gold elements on the dial, the constant minute hand is also made in the same way. The copper dial doesn’t detract from the overall readability of the dial, with the only possible issue being the date backdrop. If this were white, it would certainly stand out a lot clearer. However, it seems that Girard-Perregaux intended to give it a more subtle look. 

With the case being only 10mm in thickness, Girard-Perregaux has given this new Laureato the self-winding Calibre GP03300 movement. Shown through the open case-back, this in-house movement is stacked with refined details, something that we’ve been accustomed to with Girard-Perregaux timepieces. Some of the components in the movement have no less than four different decorations that range from bevelling, mirror-polishing, satin finishes, sunray finishes, and snailing to various engravings. The pink gold oscillating weight that stands proudly is embellished with a circular Côte de Genève finish. The movement operates at a frequency of 28 800 VpH (4Hz) while giving a respectable power reserve of 46 hours minimum. 

Girard-Perregaux vast experienced amassed over the last 230 years has allowed them to create timepieces that stand the test of time. With an appreciation for the value of light and its positive influence on timepieces, the brand can create watches with dials that a simply stunning to look at. Their consistent approach to design has paved the way for the brand to create watches with iconic cases that remain immune to fashion changes. 

In some cultures, virescent shades of green are associated with harmony, health, hope, and prosperity, while being widely seen as the colour for nature and landscape. The colour green does indeed leave a lasting impression, it’s a classic that’s here to stay.

Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato, which was launched in 1975, is another classic timepiece that ages like fine wine. The iterations of the Laureato that have been created over the years build on the predecessor to improve the mechanical power whilst retaining that timeless design. 

The green dial of this new Laureato is paired with the Clous de Paris dial pattern, which helps showcase the green colour’s richness when light hits it from different angles. Even just looking at this dial plainly, it’s a beautiful evergreen colour that is stunning to look at. 

For the first time on a Laureato three-hander model, Girard-Perregaux has done something entirely new as well, by adding a black flange with the main dial colour, which in this instance is green. The black minute track and black PVD hour indices and hands provide a stark yet beautiful contrast against the green, which incidentally also helps the dial colour stand out even more. 

All of this is encapsulated in a 42mm stainless steel case which stays true to Laureato’s tradition of juxtaposing polished and satin-finished surfaces throughout the case. The integrated bracelet provides versatility and comfortable wear thanks to its design. 

This Laureato green dial comes equipped with the self-winding movement, the Calibre GP01800. This GP01800 movement operates at a 4Hz (28,800 VpH) frequency while giving out a power reserve of approximately 54 hours. Girard-Perregaux is well known for Haute Horlogerie, so it’s no surprise that the movement GP01800 is covered in refined details. The main plate has circular graining, while other components feature bevelling, mirror-polishing, satin finishes, snailing, and sunray finishes, along with various engravings. This immaculate detail can be seen from the open case back. 

The timeless design of the Girard-Perregaux Lautearo is finally met with the timeless charm of green. Making itself a permanent member of the Lautearo collection, it’ll also no doubt make an excellent addition to the watch enthusiasts that love this beautiful colour. 

The 1970s was a period where the designs of watches were extraordinary. The creativity among watch manufacturers was unparalleled as several highly original watches came to fruition. This era is still acknowledged to this day for its visionary approach to design. Some of the timeless case and dial designs are still used today by watch manufacturers. One of these is the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, a watch that remains timeless and retains that visual appeal that made the original 1975 model so great.

Many original and aesthetic timepieces have come and gone over the years, with Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato watch joining the ranks of the few that have continued development since the release of the original model. Now, the newest edition of the Laureato sees the watch being donned in a 42mm pink gold case and matched with a beautifully contrasting handcrafted black onyx dial. 

The 18-carat pink gold case has Laureato tradition written all over it, with juxtaposing satin and polished finished surfaces throughout the case. The watch comes with a matching pink gold bracelet which completes the luxurious finish of the watch.

The black onyx dial is no easy feat to create either. It requires 15 different operations to complete, resulting in a black finish that looks exquisite and has a mirror-like finish. To match the casing, the hands, baton-style hour indices, and GP logo (at the 12 o’clock position) are created with warm golden tones. 

Girard-Perregaux has given the Laureato the GP01800-1404 movement, which is a self-winding movement with a pink gold oscillator. This in-house movement has the level of finishing synonymous with an Haute Horologie watch brand, as it comes with the main plate with circular graining, bevelled components, mirror polishing, satin finish, snailing, sunray finishings, and various engravings. 

Watchadvice Thoughts:

What makes the Laureato so instantly recognisable is the assemblage of contrasting forms that has to lead to the watch’s unique profile design. Since the release of the original Laureato in 1975, there have been some changes to the model, albeit subtle ones. The 2017 update was the fifth-generation release of the watch, a design that has been used for this latest 2022 update. Even with the modern updates, the 2022 model still retains the essence of the original 1975 Laureato. 

The handcrafted black onyx dial is the perfect addition to this model, as it contrast’s so well against the 18k pink gold case and pink gold bracelet. In addition to this, the warm golden tones of the hour indices, hands etc, create crisp and clear legibility of the dial as they stand out beautifully against the black. 

The aesthetics of the watch is matched equally by the functionality. The GP01800-1404 movement can generate a power reserve of approximately 54 hours. 

Updating a classic timepiece and keeping the essence of what made the original so great, all the while keeping buyers interested, is certainly no easy feat. This latest Laureato is a testament to that.

Reference: 81010-52-3118-1CM

International Pricing: $54,300.00 USD

The latest watch to be unveiled by the two brands is the Laureato Absolute Chronograph AM F1 Edition. This watch comes with two world firsts for the watchmaking industry, the use of micro-mechanics and also the extreme performance of Formula One. 

The world of Formula One requires competitors to use the most efficient systems, designs, and materials to make the racecars as fast as possible. Pushing the limit of what’s capable, and times innovating new materials to inch ahead of the competitors. A fraction of a second can be the difference between winning and losing in this world. Aerodynamics and the engine power of a Formula One car play a big role, but another equally vital role is the weight of the car itself. If teams can shave even 500g – 1kg of the car, they will find a way to do it. This is where the innovation of materials comes in, and how Formula One teams like Aston Martin can bring forth their extensive knowledge of innovative materials to the world of watchmaking. 

Excited about this new project, Girard-Perregaux’s CEO, Patrick Pruniaux shared his views on it by stating “from the outset, working with Aston Martin has been a joy. It has not just been a case of putting our name on a Formula One™ car. On the contrary, we have collaborated on various projects, resulting in the production of two very different watches. Working together has led to some innovative and interesting ideas, culminating in the creation of new exciting products. It has also led to some wonderful friendships forming between both companies’ personnel. With our previous collaborative models, the emphasis was on style and elegance. However, with this latest watch, we sought to work closely with the F1 side of the brand, focusing more on the idea of performance.”

Team Principal of Aston Martin Aramco Cognizant Formula One™ Team, Mike Krack, shared a similar sentiment as he states that “as a team, we have the determination to succeed – and that ambition requires us to analyse every element of our performance package. That includes managing the materials we use to build our cars, measuring their weight, their strength, all in a bid to find that critical extra thousandth of a second in lap-time. Girard-Perregaux is a valued partner to our organisation, and we have worked together to share and combine our knowledge to improve each other’s brands. The new Laureato Absolute Chronograph AMF1 is the first example of this collaboration and a stunning example of the work we can achieve together.”

Design:

Girard-Perregaux has used the extensive knowledge from Aston Martin to create a brand new cutting-edge 44mm case. The casing is comprised of titanium powder and carbon elements which are taken from two F1 race cars that were used during the 2021 season. First, for the watch industry, the individual components are brought together using a high-tech manufacturing process and then mixed with a tinted resin. The final material that is produced offers a much higher ductility than that of steel. With the carbon properties, each Laureato Absolute Chronograph AM F1 Edition will have its own separate appearance, and will certainly look uniquely different from the other watches on the market. 

The dial of the Laureato Absolute Chronograph AM F1 Edition showcases Aston Martin’s Racing Green and comes with cross-hatching, which is a motif that can be traced back to the Aston Martin ‘AM’ badge of 1921. The hour and minute hands on the watch have also been skeletonised to reflect Aston Martin’s design opening’s on their cars to facilitate cooling. The lime colour used on the chronographs hands also references the design of the AMF1 race car. 

Movement:

The engine behind the Laureato Absolute Chronograph AM F1 Edition is the brand’s in-house Calibre GP03300-1058 movement. This self-winding mechanical movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 VpH (4Hz) and can give out a power reserve of approximately 46 hours. For the first time in a Laureato Absolute Chronograph model, the case back has been opened up with a pane of sapphire crystal, so that the Calibre GP03300-1058 movement can be seen up close. 

Much like the inspiration for the case, the strap that’s offered for this timepiece takes the carbon elements from two AM F1 racecars from the 2021 season and combines them with FKM Rubber to create the GP Rubber Alloy strap. This new strap offers much higher comfort and resistance when compared to traditional rubber straps, all the while perfectly replicating the beauty of the case and dial. 

Limited to just 306 timepieces, the all-new Laureato Absolute Chronograph AM F1 Edition will no doubt be a hit with not only Aston Martin fans but watch enthusiasts alike. A stunning innovative timepiece with ties to the British car manufacturing legend, what’s not to like?

Reference: 81060-41-3071-1CX

Specification:

• Case: 44 mm and thickness 15.15mm
• Case Material: titanium & carbon case with carbon extracted from two Formula OneTM race cars used during the 2021 season
• Dial: Sunray ‘Aston Martin Racing Green’ with cross-hatching, indexes with luminescent material (green emission)
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating inside
• Water resistance: 100 meters
• Movement: GP03300-1058
• Power reserve: 46 hours
• Bracelet: GP Rubber Alloy in Aston Martin Racing Green – a mix of rubber and carbon extracted from two Formula OneTM race cars used during the 2021 season, fabric effect and green stitches. Folding with the micro-adjustment system, titanium with black PVD treatment

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $41,000.00 AUD

Availability: Limited edition to 306 pieces. Available now.

Looking very different from the traditional timepieces of the time, the Casquette was powered by a quartz movement, which during the quartz crisis was the go-to movement. In saying that however, Girard-Perregaux is at the forefront for making high-frequency quartz movements. The brand created a quartz movement that had a frequency of 32, 768 Hz, which has now become the universal standard for Quartz timepieces. 

The original Casquette model delivered the hours, minutes, and seconds is not only in a highly precise manner but also in a way that was unconventional to what other brands were making at the time. While competitors saw to create circular dials with led’s, Girard-Perregaux’s approach was not only functional but a fresh new take with avant-garde styling. Girard-Perregaux has always viewed designing a watch as a whole piece, instead of isolated parts that come together. The brand has shown that they are one to never shy away from designing different case shapes and different types of bracelets, all the while respecting the practicality, reliability, and readability of the watch. 

The Casquette that was initially released in 1976 was produced until 1978, and was made in three case variants; Makrolon (polycarbonate), yellow gold plate, and lastly a steel version. Fast forward to the modern era, the Casquette has become a highly sought-after collector’s item thanks to its retro-futuristic look. 

Now, the hunt for these pieces will be no more, thanks to Girard-Perregaux releasing the re-imagined version of the original; the Casquette 2.0. The birth of the new Casquette didn’t start this year, however. Back in 2021, Girard-Perregaux worked alongside Bamford Watch Department to create a very unique one-off timepiece for the charity auction; Only Watch. Girard-Perregaux looked to the original Casquette of 1976 to create a singular timepiece that was made from forged carbon and titanium, with titanium pushers. The watch sold for a staggering CHF 100,000, with all proceeds going for research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy. What was unusual about this piece was that a brand new movement, the Calibre GP03980, was created just to fit into the one-off Casquette. This certainly raised questions as to why the brand made a new movement, but that has now been answered, as the Casquette 2.0 comes fitted with the Calibre GP039830.

Design:

The Casquette 2.0 comes black ceramic and Grade 5 titanium case, with Grade 5 titanium pushers. The case measures 42.40 x 33.60mm with a sapphire crystal glass and a titanium case back secured by 4 screws. 

Like the original Casquette model, this latest timepiece displays the hours, minutes, seconds along with the day and date. The updated movement, however, can now also show the month, year, chronograph functions, second-time zone, and also a secret date. The secret date function allows the wearer to set a memorable date of their choosing, e.g, a birthday, wedding anniversary, etc. 

The timepiece comes in a ceramic bracelet that has an inner rubber lining that allows the bracelet to be more flexible and much more comfortable to wear. The bracelet also comes fitted with a folding titanium buckle. 

Movement:

Girard-Perregaux’s movement for this timepiece, the Calibre GP039830, allows the user to see the time on demand, which helps greatly preserve the battery life. Girard-Perregaux states that “assuming the pushers are pressed on average 20 times per day, the battery should last for 2 years.”

The Casquette 2.0 will only be limited to a run of 820 units, which is a reference to the 8200 pieces that were produced of the original Casquette during 1976 – 1978. When the original model was initially released, there were a lot of people that missed out on this now iconic model. If you have been on the hunt for a retro-futuristic timepiece, or have been looking for the original Casquette or similar, then look no further, as the Casquette 2.0 can be simply pre-ordered from Girard-Perregaux’s E-commerce website from 22.02.2022 to 07.03.2022. Otherwise, select Girard-Perregaux retailers around the world will have them in stock. 

Girard-Perregaux’s CEO, Patrick Pruniaux, sums up this timepiece best as he states “Not all watches retain their looks and desirability with the passage of time. However, since the production of the original Casquette ceased in 1978, the interest in this watch has never diminished. We regularly receive enquiries and have witnessed these models attract much attention, fetching 10x their original sales price on the pre-owned market. If only everything we bought increased in value in such a way! Quite simply, the original Casquette serves to further validate our reputation for designing watches with lasting appeal. We are delighted to welcome the Casquette back – a stylish watch that promises a lasting allure.”

Reference: 39800-32-001-32A

Specification:

• Case: 42.40 x 33.60 mm Height: 14.64 mm
• Case Material: Black ceramic & Grade 5 titanium, Grade 5 titanium pushers
• Dial: Tubular LED display
• Crystal: Sapphire Crystal
• Water resistance: 50 meters
• Movement: GP03980 Quartz movement
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, month, year, chronograph, second time zone, secret date
• Strap: black ceramic with rubber interior and titanium folding buckle

Australian Retail Price: 7,000.00 AUD

Availability: Available Now, Limited to 820 pieces worldwide

The Three Gold Bridges model is an iconic element of the brand’s history and has appeared in numerous models throughout the brand’s lineup. The Three Gold Bridges design started with the pocket watch “La Esmerelda” back in 1889. Girard-Perregaux treated the bridges in the La Esmerelda not just as functioning parts, but ones that would also serve as an aesthetic purpose to the viewer. 

Now, Girard-Perregaux has reimagined the iconic Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges with precious stones to create the “Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges Ruby Heart”. A watch dedicated to love and passion, inspired by the romance between Constant Girard and Marie Perregaux. 

The current CEO of Girard Perregaux, Patrick Pruniaux, explains that “with this latest model, we have celebrated the iconic Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges but refined it to allow for smaller proportions. At the start of the development process for this model we looked to our past and were inspired by the romance between Constant Girard and Marie Perregaux. We chose to combine a tourbillon, a highly desirable complication, with a ruby heart and other precious stones. In my opinion, the resultant timepiece is a wonderful expression of love.”

Design:

The Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges Ruby Heart comes in a 38mm pink gold case which is set with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 1.25cts, and 18 brilliant-cut rubies totalling 0.36 ct along the bezel edge. 

As the name suggests, the “ruby heart” cabochon is located on the crown. The sapphire anti-reflective glass opens the view into the beautiful dial where the Three Gold Bridges lie. 

Girard-Perregaux has somewhat subtly re-designed the Three Gold Bridges from previous models, to ensure that it fits the new case size and dial layout. Each of the Three Bridges is hand-finished and polished, which is the same for the movement used in this timepiece. The finishing for the bridges includes mirror-polishing, which is what gives that beautiful aesthetic appearance on the dial. The Three Bridges are made from pink gold, which against the backdrop of the ruby heart dial, stands out very nicely. 

The hour and minute hands sit above the three bridges and have a dauphine-type design making it look quite refined and sharp. The upper bridge located at 12 o’clock connects to the barrel which has been made from a hand-engraved white gold disc. The central bridge sits atop the hour wheel and finally, the third bridge located at 6 o’clock position contains the tourbillon. Designed according to Girard-Perregaux tradition, the tourbillon has a lyre-shaped cage, which is made up of 79 components and weighs just 0.3g! This incredibly low mass of the cage is a huge benefit to the design and movement overall, as it leads mitigates power consumption. The final touch to the tourbillon design is the blue steel hand which is fixed to the tourbillon cage. This blue hand acts as the constant seconds for the timepiece. 

Movement:

The engine behind the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges Ruby Heart is Girard-Perregaux’s own self-winding movement; the Calibre GP09600-1620. This movement features a micro-rotor which is located unobtrusively behind the barrel. 

Each part in the movement is created to the finest finish in watchmaking as they are polished, chamfered, and has been carved out by hand with to a scale of 1/100mm. The movement operates at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 VpH) and thanks to the extremely light tourbillon cage, the movement can push out a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. 

A watch suited for the romantics but only a few can only get a hold of, the all-new Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges Ruby Heart by Girard-Perregaux is unfortunately limited to only three models! 

Reference: 99242B52CH01-CKHA

International Price: 178,800 CHF

Availability: Now, Limited and numbered edition of 3 pieces

The two manufacturers worked closely together to ensure that the best of both brands would be showcased in this new timepiece and ultimately would cater to those who appreciate luxury and performance. 

The Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition’s dial colour has special significance as it represents Aston Martin’s brand colour. Back in the early 1900s, racing cars had various colours that would set the different nationalities participating apart from each other. The result was that French cars were blue, Italian cars were red (which is their iconic colour), Belgian cars were yellow, German cars were donned in silver, and lastly, British cars dressed in “Racing Green”. Being a British icon, Aston Martin adopted this colour to be their main racing colour. The most iconic example of this colour on an Aston Martin car is the Aston Martin DBR1, which won the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1959. 

CEO of Girard-Perregaux, Patrick Pruniaux explains this new timepiece by saying “Our Manufacture has a long history of collaborations, beginning with our founder Jean-François Bautte who brought different “établisseurs” together under one roof, effectively creating one of the first Manufactures as we know them today. Not only has our partnership with Aston Martin yielded two exceptional timepieces now, but it is also indeed a meeting of the minds and marks the beginnings of a true friendship between both brands and our teams. The Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin edition is evidence of that mutual understanding and shared philosophy.”

Design:

The Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition comes equipped with a 42mm 904L stainless steel case. Although 904L stainless steel is less common and costlier compared to standard 316L stainless steel, the benefits include superior corrosion resistance, improved scratch resistance, and a brighter and luxurious appearance. Girard Perregaux has used 904L stainless steel for the bracelet as well. 

The profile of this timepiece honours the Girard-Perregaux Laureato timepiece from 1975, which includes the octagonal bezel. Keeping with the design philosophy from earlier models, the case of the Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition plays with different shapes, different lines, facets, satin-finished and polished edges to beautifully reflect under different lighting angles. 

The dial is certainly eye-catching, which features the Aston Martin Green colour with further automotive influences such as the cross-hatching in the form of diamond-pattern which has been inspired by the quilted seats in Aston Martin’s high-performance sports cars. This cross-hatching may make the dial look busier than it should be, but it does have a certain appeal about it and gives that racing car interior feel. 

Three counters are featured on the dial of the Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition, which includes the constant seconds counter at 3 o’clock, the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, and the 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock. The inside of each counter features just the Aston Martin Green colour to avoid overcrowding the subdials. To complete the functions of the watch, a date window is located between 4 and 5 o’clock. 

Movement:

The movement used inside the Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition is Girard-Perregaux’s own CAlibre GP03300-0141 movement. This automatic movement is based on the brand’s own highly regarded in-house Calibre GP03300. The movement operates at a frequency of 4Hz (28, 800 VpH) and gives out a minimum power reserve of 46 hours. The timepiece comes with an open case back in which this movement can be seen.

The movement comes with different finishes, including being endowed with Côtes de Genève, in both circular and straight forms, blued screws and perlage. The movement also has the brand’s eagle-emblem, which is used to signify that it is an in-house calibre. 

Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition will surely be a fan favourite for people that love both brands, and with such a beautiful vivid green colour along with the cross-hatching design, the dial is quite unique and eye-catching. The watch will be limited to 188 pieces and is immediately available worldwide in all authorised Girard-Perregaux retailers.

Reference: 81020-11-001-11A

Specification:

• Case:  42mm, 12.1mm thick
• Case material: Steel
• Dial: “Aston Martin Green” with cross-hatching, ‘baton’ type indexes with luminescent material (green emission)
• Crystal: Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
• Water resistance: 100 meters
• Movement: Calibre GP03300-0141
• Power reserve: 46 hours

Australian Retail Price: 26,800 AUD

Availability: Now, Limited to 188 Pieces Worldwide