Glashütte Original – Watch Advice https://www.watchadvice.com.au Luxury watch reviews, news & advice Fri, 16 Jun 2023 10:13:18 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.8.1 Glashütte Original Pays Homage To A Decade Full Of Originality With The Latest Sixties Small Second https://www.watchadvice.com.au/16620/glashutte-original-pays-homage-to-a-decade-full-of-originality-with-the-latest-sixties-small-second/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/16620/glashutte-original-pays-homage-to-a-decade-full-of-originality-with-the-latest-sixties-small-second/#respond Fri, 16 Jun 2023 10:13:15 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=16620 The latest timepiece unveiled by Glashütte Original is a celebration of a decade in our history that shaped the course of the future, not only for watches but for society in general. A decade bursting with creative energy, where people created original, timeless classics by experimenting with colours, shapes, and sounds.

The 1960s left a huge impression on modern society. It left a lasting impression through the release of music, fashion, and architecture, all of which can be seen and heard throughout the world. The 1960s were all about self-expression, the desire for change, and expanding one’s horizon. This form of self-expression is something that Glashütte Original is all too familiar with. Finding new paths through creativity and originality, these values from the Sixties still give inspiration to the watchmaker even today.

Glashütte Original Sixites Small Seconds 1-39-60-01-01-04

A timepiece in celebration of this historic decade, Glashütte Original is releasing the all-new Sixties Small Second. The watchmaker is bringing the Sixties to the modern era with this latest release, with a healthy dose of timeless originality. This, however, is not the first Sixties model in Glashütte Original’s lineup. The Sixties models actually form a vital part of Glashütte Original’s Vintage Collection, which consist of timepieces like the three-hander or Panorama Date, with the latter being available in either chronograph or a colorful limited edition. The retro look with a touch of modernity in this vintage collection is being loved by fans all around the world.

Glashütte Original Sixites Small Seconds 1-39-60-01-01-04

The latest Sixties Small Second is being presented in a 42mm rose gold case with a brass-made galvanic silver-opaline dial. The retro look is retained with the inscriptions of the dial, which include the Glashütte Original inscription under the 12 o’clock hour marker, as well as the Arabic 3, 9, and 12-hour indices. The rest of the hour indices are done in baton style and along with the hour and minute hands, are colour matched to the rose gold case.

Elegant galvanic silver dial

The galvanic silver dial comes with a fine vinyl-type finish, which gives it a smooth yet shine-like appearance. The 6 o’clock position is what sets this three-hander apart from the rest of the three-hander models in Glashütte Original’s vintage collection. A constant seconds sub-dial is shown, with the hand being the same finish as the hour and minute hands on the dial.

Glashütte Original is enhancing the retro image of the watch by giving the watch a matte green Louisiana alligator strap. It also gives this fashionable timepiece a more luxurious look as well, while the deep green gives a refreshing touch to the classic retro look.

1960s inspired Arabic hour indices

Inside the Sixties Small Seconds is Glashütte Original’s intricate automatic movement: the 39-60 manufacture calibre. This 39-60 calibre movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 VpH (4Hz), with the high frequency giving accurate display for the hour, minute and small seconds display. The movement also delivers a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Through the open case back, the beautifully refined decorative finishes of the movement can be admired. Finishes such as Glashütte stripes, bevelled edges, polished screws and the skeletonized rotor (21-carat gold) with its signature double-G logo.

Glashütte Original Sixites Small Seconds 1-39-60-01-01-04

The fastest of the three-hander models in Glashütte Original’s vintage collection thanks to its high-frequency movement, this new Sixties Small Second’s is a beautifully designed retro-inspired timepiece with a touch of elegance. The matte green alligator strap was a strong choice for this watch, as when it’s paired against the rose gold case and galvanic silver-opaline dial it not only stands out on its own but also gives the watch a perfect addition of colour. The Sixties Small Second will be available for purchase worldwide from selected retailers and Glashütte Original boutiques worldwide from June 15th, 2023.

Reference: 1-39-60-01-01-04

Specification

  • Case: 42mm
  • Case Material: Rose gold
  • Dial: Brass material, Galvanic silver-opaline
  • Crystal: Sapphire crystal, domed, anti-reflective on both sides
  • Water resistance: 30m (3bar)
  • Movement: Automatic, Calibre 39-60, finely finished
  • Power reserve: 40 hours
  • Strap: Matt green Louisiana alligator leather with rose gold pin buckle

Availability:  Selected retailers and Glashütte Original boutiques worldwide from June 15th, 2023.

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: $24,000

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New Film From Glashütte Original Takes Us Behind The Scenes Of The Saxon Manufactory https://www.watchadvice.com.au/16151/new-film-from-glashutte-original-takes-us-behind-the-scenes-of-the-saxon-manufactory/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/16151/new-film-from-glashutte-original-takes-us-behind-the-scenes-of-the-saxon-manufactory/#respond Sat, 03 Jun 2023 02:53:05 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=16151 Ever wanted to peak behind the curtain of a watch brand? This new three and a half minute film from Glashütte Original showcases the effort and precision that goes into the German brand’s timepieces.

“On The Trail Of The Original” is a short three and a half minute film produced by Glashütte Original to showcase the people and the passion behind the brand. From the very first vision of what the watch could be, right through to the manufacturing process to the final piece in place, we get a rare glimpse into what actually goes into producing a Glashütte Original piece.

A look behind what goes into making a Glashütte Original timepiece

Being watch lovers, we all know that a watch isn’t just a simple device for telling time. It’s the embodiment of lots of emotion and passion for a mechanical machine on our wrists. A big part of this, in my opinion is the craftsmanship that goes into the watch. From the perfectly assembled movement, to the hand finishing and decorating of the parts, to the design of the case and dial, it all comes together seamlessly in the finished product.

An artisan at work hand engraving a bridge

The film takes us through the six elements that Glashütte Original stand by: Beauty, from the first sketch to the tiniest decorative detail; Excellence, the relentless pursuit of perfection; Originality, in the form of authenticity and creativity; Tradition, nurtured and passed on to the next generation; and Modernity, too, which shapes the entire working environment; and finally, Exclusivity, which governs all else.

Together these values allow the Glashütte Original team to give their best, so that each and every watch bears the invisible signature of the people who played a role, large or small, in its making. They are the key to its originality

Putting the Swan Neck assembly and spring into the movement

Throughout the film, we stop along the way to visit product design and construction departments, the lab and toolmaking workshops and take a closer look at frame part production and final assembly. We admire the skills of the machine shop operators and dial makers, note the eagle-eyed alertness of quality management, and experience at first hand how a great variety of craft skills are engaged – from galvanization and hardening to spark erosion and gear-cutting, tin polishing and decorative finishing.

The turning department at work

The new manufactory film is part of Glashütte Original’s global “Proud to be the Original” campaign, launched early in 2022 and its aim is to highlight not only the watches, but the people behind the watches, as they are at the end of the day, what make the brand tick (yes, pun intended!) If you want to keep up with this and what the brand is doing, follow along on Instagram and with the hashtag #PTBTO (Pound To Be The Original). The film is best watched in full screen mode, so enjoy!

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With Casual More The Norm These Days, Is The Dress Watch Dead? https://www.watchadvice.com.au/14903/with-casual-more-the-norm-these-days-is-the-dress-watch-dead/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/14903/with-casual-more-the-norm-these-days-is-the-dress-watch-dead/#comments Wed, 19 Apr 2023 14:00:00 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=14903 This is a question that popped into my mind several weeks ago following a conversation with a few fellow collectors and boutique managers. Is the dress watch dead?

Well, maybe not dead, but its popularity has certainly waned over the last few years. Admittedly, I’ve never really been a dress watch type of guy. I’ve always preferred the sports watches over anything else. Maybe because my lifestyle in Queensland is more outdoors and casual, but even before I lived here, back in Sydney I gravitated towards the steel sports watches. I assume it’s mostly because back in the early 2000’s many successful people I knew wore Rolexes, Omega’s, Breitling’s and Panerai’s, and this coupled with movie characters and advertising of people I looked up to, wore the same. And who says ads don’t work?

Pairing my Panerai Luminor Marina 312 with a pair of chinos and rolled up business shirt for work last year

Putting this aside, the last few years has seen a definite trend towards sports watches, and away from dress watches. COVID has definitely played a part in this – with many people working from home and not the office. Prior to this, if you worked in a corporate environment with a suit, a dress watch made complete sense. All of a sudden, you’re at home in T-shirts and shorts, or whatever was the most comfortable to sit for hours on end at your kitchen table, lounge, outdoor entertaining area, or really where ever. A dress watch here didn’t make sense anymore. Now we’re out of COVID, and life seems to be back to a relative normal, and people are back in the office (at least part of the week), we should be seeing dress watches more right? It appears it’s not so much the case.

A Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – a stunning dress watch that’s not as common on the wrists these days

Changing Trends

Awards shows are always a good gauge on fashion trends, and watches, like it or not, are part of modern day fashion. And there certainly is a trend to see guys in suits sporting steel sports, or precious metal sports watches, not the typical understated watch on a nice leather strap, 40mm and under. You now see AP, Rolex, Patek, and even most recently, Dwayne Johnson rocking a TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 for the Academy Awards as a poetic nod to the fake TAG he wore when he was broke in his “7 Bucks” days, a departure from his standard go to of AP or Panerai in precious metal. But again, this proves my point, these are not dress watches either, albeit they are slightly more dressy than an Aquaracer!

Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson with his TAG Heuer Aquaracer. Image courtesy of Dwayne Johnson’s Facebook Page

Speaking to a few people in the know, they tend to agree. Dress watch sales have been in decline. Sports watches are taking their place, and for some brands, models that are hybrid dress/sports with interchangeable straps are becoming more popular. And this makes sense. Why spend good money on a dress watch that you may only wear every now and then (assuming you’re not in a suit and tie all day) when you can purchase a watch that is versatile and with the change of a strap, you can change the look? I know I’m gravitating towards this more and more.

The other theory I had was that people are just more casual these days. People want to be comfortable and this is extending into all areas of their lives. This can be seen across all areas of the luxury market. Luxury street wear is now more popular than ever, and replacing more formal attire in this sector.

Luxury sneakers – epitomising the trend of casual and luxury streetwear

Casual Luxury

An article from the New York Times in August of 2021 (which you can read here) highlighted this perfectly. Wall Street, the bastion of wealth and also formality had dressed down! The Suits were no longer in suits. If this wasn’t a sign I don’t know what was. And this trend permeated across the globe. Australia was not immune and I would suggest, was adopted a lot quicker than in other countries.

Worker on Wall Street in chinos, canvas shoes and business shirt with his Rolex Submariner. Image courtesy of The New York Times

Luxury had to follow. Now I don’t know where I heard the term, or maybe I just came up with it myself, but “Casual Luxury” is now in vogue. LV back packs, Hugo Boss sneakers, Gucci bomber jackets and of course, watches. And now, it seems that almost anything goes. An IWC Pilot 41 Chronograph with a suit? Sure! Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time on rubber for a nice dinner out? Yep! And Rolex, AP and Patek Philippe are go to pieces for any occasion, and that is part of the appeal of a luxury sports watch. Dress a Submariner, Royal Oak or Nautilus up or down. To be honest, I know I would.

Paring the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Ultraviolet with matching shirt and suit combo

The data would also suggest this is the case as well. Just take a look at the latest Morgan Stanley figures for the Swiss Watch industry in 2022. Brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre who are predominantly known for their dress watches have slid from their position at #10 in 2017 to #14 in 2022, Bulgari, who up until recent years focused on dress watches, have slid from #15 in 2017 to out of the Top 20 in 2022. And it’s no surprise that Chopard, who are known for their luxury jewellery and watches of a more dressy and formal nature have doubled down on their sports watch range, most notably with the hit that is the Alpine Eagle – a great sports watch that is easily dressed up or down.

2022 Watch Brand Ranking by Revenue. Data thanks to Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult

The Dress Watch Dilemma

I have had the pleasure of trying on and testing numerous dress watches over the past year or so, and some I loved, some not so much. My favourite of late was the Glashuette Original PanoMaticLuna. A brilliant dress watch, finished superbly and a great, and more affordable alternative to the A Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Moonshpase. I’d buy this in a heartbeat. If I only had the occasion to wear it! And these days, I don’t go to too many formal occasions, and for any watch related event, I’m normally wearing something from the brand or if not, and not too formal (most event’s aren’t too formal), my Zenith on the steel bracelet fits the bill.

The Glashuette PanoMaticLuna – Probably the only dress watch I would buy now or in the near future

Continuing on this thought path, I would now tend to look for a watch that I can wear often, if not everyday. I went to a formal event this weekend actually, and was lent a good friend’s Rolex Daytona in Rose Gold on Oysterflex. This was perfect for the event, looked the part and you feel a million dollars wearing it. And this is his almost everyday watch. Why? because it dresses up just as well as it dresses down. And this is what I’m now considering for my next purchase. A piece that is versatile, and can be either dressed up, or down. Not a big watch, most probably 40mm and not too thick, and preferably with the ability to change the strap or bracelet easily. A watch that can go from the boardroom to the beach to black tie. Am I asking too much?

Rolex Daytona in Rose Gold, rose dial with diamond baguettes on and OysterFlex strap.

Final Thoughts

But this does bring me back to the original question. Is the dress watch dead? Maybe for now, with the time we’re living in and the trends that are around today it is. Or maybe it’s just hibernating, waiting to be woken up when times have changed. And this is what fashion does. It ebbs and flows, it’s cyclical. Trends comes and go, and they come back around again. So maybe in the not too distant future, we’ll all be dressing up again, heading to work in suits and ties, when going out or travelling, putting on our Sunday best. But for now, my Sunday best is a pair of shorts and a Polo shirt, and on my wrist is a sports watch. And I’m perfectly ok with this!

Working from the home office in my Zenith Defy Skyline.

We always love to know what you think. Drop a comment in the comments section below and tell us if you agree or not? We’d love to hear your thoughts.

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Glashütte Original – SeaQ Panorama Date Reed Green https://www.watchadvice.com.au/10835/glashutte-original-seaq-panorama-date-reed-green/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/10835/glashutte-original-seaq-panorama-date-reed-green/#respond Wed, 16 Mar 2022 12:45:40 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=10835 Earlier last month, Glashütte Original released the latest timepiece in their SeaQ Panorama Date collection. The SeaQ Panorama Date was designed to be an all-rounder, a timepiece that can be worn out on adventures, yet still, have the class and luxurious appeal to be worn to formal events. A watch that’s perfect for office wear and for sporty functions. 

There have been three previous versions of this model. A contrasting black dial, a beautiful blue dial, and also a black and red gold version. The latest colour to be added to this collection is what Glashütte Original calls “Reed Green”. Green is considered to be the colour of life, sustainability, and nature. The natural effect it has when seen is that of positivity and harmony. It’s the perfect colour for a timepiece that’s made for the outdoors. 

Design:

The SeaQ Panorama Date Reed Green features a beautiful reed green on the dial and a uni-directional rotating bezel. The bezel has a half-minute detent and scratch-resistant ceramic inlay. The timepiece comes in a 43.2mm stainless steel case with a matching stainless steel bracelet. The dial is beautifully done, with the hour indices and hands in big bold white (coated in SuperlumiNova) giving a nice amount of contrast against the reed green dial background. The date window between 4 and 5 o’clock is the only other function that is shown on the dial. This is a good thing as it’s important to keep the dial relatively simple is the essence of this watch. 

The dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal which is anti-reflective on both sides, allowing the beauty of the dial to be seen to its fullest. 

Movement:

A watch suited to the outdoors in land or water needs a movement that can withstand the harsh conditions on offer. The resilience of this timepiece can be found at the heart of the watch. Anchored in the case with a bayonet mount, the manufactures 36-13 mechanical movement is shockproof, has increased accuracy, and has a water resistance of up to 30 bar (300m). The Automatic Calibre 36-13 movement ticks at a frequency of 4Hz or 28, 800 (VpH). The movement also gives out a power reserve of approximately 100 hours. 

The Calibre 36-13 movement has a silicon balance spring which makes the movement immune to the effects of omnipresent magnetic fields which can affect precision and accuracy. The movement and timepiece also meet the requirements of DIN 8306 and ISO 6425, which are the standards for professional dive watches. The watch comes with an open case back in which you can see the hand-finished movement and its first-class decorative finishes. 

The latest colourway for the SeaQ Panorama Date sees the timepiece don a beautiful reed green, making it a perfect colour for a timepiece made for the outdoors. Glashütte Original put it best with this statement “this watch offers a rare combination of sporty functionality, reliable endurance, and unmatched style. Every single element, no matter how small, serves its purpose in an excellent manner, and is harmoniously finished by the hand of an expert artisan”. 

Offered in a rubber strap, stainless steel bracelet, or ultra-robust fabric strap, the Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date Reed Green is available for purchase in March 2022, from Glashütte Original Boutiques and selected authorised dealers.

Australian Retail Pricing: Starting from $16,800.00

Availability: Available now.

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Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition https://www.watchadvice.com.au/9995/glashutte-original-senator-excellence-perpetual-calendar-limited-edition/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/9995/glashutte-original-senator-excellence-perpetual-calendar-limited-edition/#respond Wed, 27 Oct 2021 14:14:09 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=9995 Glashütte Original has launched its latest release with the quite simply stunning; Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Limited edition model. As Glashütte Original themselves put it, this watch can be described as “taking timekeeping into the realm of art”. This new piece will breathe new life into Glashütte Original’s Senator Excellence collection, and with quite an entrance too, as the aesthetics of the watch are equally matched by the movement and functionality of the timepiece. 

The hand-crafted movement with its intricate finishes has been created solely in Saxon’s manufacture, which honours the reliability of the movement every day of the year, for a very long time! 

Design:

The highlight of this timepiece is something that will be noticeable from quite a distance away. Glashütte Original has given the Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar a modern yet sophisticated look by designing the watch in rose/dark blue colours. The galvanic rose opaline dial is certainly what stands out the most and Glashütte Original states that to achieve this colour, an elaborate process with several individual steps must be taken. 

The final colour is quite simply stunning, to say the least. Glashütte Original has then combined the rose opaline dial with dark blue hour indices, hands, and even the date windows for the perpetual calendar functions. To match the blue of the dial, Glashütte Original has given a blue Louisiana Alligator leather strap as the standard strap of choice. Enclosing the dial is a 42mm stainless steel case. 

We weren’t kidding when we said that the looks of this timepiece are equally matched by its technical prowess. The Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar comes equipped with the perpetual calendar grand complication, which simply has it all! A day of the week function and a Panorama Date function, which incidentally is a specialty of the Saxon, followed by the month and leap year functions. 

The calendar has been designed by Glashütte Original to suit the various lengths of the months, and thanks to the incredible memory of this watch, the Perpetual Calendar won’t need to be reset until the year 2100 (in theory). 

Movement:

The movement used to power the Perpetual Calendar and its several functions the Saxon’s own in-house automatic winding Calibre 36-12. This finely finished movement operates at a frequency of 28, 800 VpH (4Hz) and gives out a staggering 100 hours power reserve. Glashütte Original has used their innovative bayonet mounting method to give the timepiece and movement robust stability, as this method secures the movement onto the case. Another great feature of the movement is the practical universal corrector, which allows the wearer to set the day, date, and month at the same time. 

The Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar comes with an open case-back which gives a view into the beautifully crafted movement. Through the sapphire crystal on the case back, the skeletonised rotor and the skeletonised Double-G, which makes the rotor more delicate can be seen. Other design features include the characteristic three-quarter plate with the refined Glashütte Original stripe finish, hand-engraved balance cock, blued screws, and intricate decorative finishing on the various wheels and rotor rack. 

As this latest timepiece belongs to the Senator Excellence collection, it is upheld to rigorous testing, to ensure that the timepiece is compliant with Glashütte Original’s rating for exceptional precision, stability, and running time. Each watch in the Senator Excellence collection goes through 24 days of testing, in which afterwards a special engraving is made on the case back to guarantee the quality of the watch. 

This stunning new timepiece is unfortunately limited to 100 models only and will be available at the end of October exclusively at Glashütte Original boutiques and authorised dealers. 

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2021 Glashütte Original SeaQ in Reed Green Revealed https://www.watchadvice.com.au/8556/2021-glashutte-original-seaq-in-reed-green-revealed/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/8556/2021-glashutte-original-seaq-in-reed-green-revealed/#respond Tue, 30 Mar 2021 14:13:02 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=8556 Glashütte Original debuted its diver’s watch in 1969, it was called the Spezimatic Typ RP TS 200. Its latest variation in the already existing SeqQ diver’s range is inspired by the very same design and includes upgrades to its functionality. Glashütte Original’s SeaQ now comes in a Rich Reed Green lacquered dial. 

The dial really takes the centre stage and has the rich reed-green colour with silver applied numerals and matching date aperture at three o’clock. The matching date aperture design integrates seamlessly into the dial and does not seem like an afterthought or a design feature that was overlooked. The hands, numerals, and indexes are coated with generous amount of Super-LumiNova that ensures optimum legibility in difficult lighting.  The SeaQ has ceramic bezel which rotates counterclockwise and has green ceramic inlay that blends perfectly with its dial. The bezel has 120 clicks and only the 12 o’ clock marker has lume.  It has a screw-down crown with the Glashütte Original’s classic double “G” moniker.

The SeaQ Reed-Green is German engineered and you can expect the watch to comply with international quality standards for a diver’s watch. This makes it a very safe diver’s watch. The watch is rigorously tested and meets DIN 8306 and ISO 6425 standards for a diver’s watch i.e., legibility under water, both shock and water resistance, variations in pressure, and many other criteria’s. 

The SeaQ is water resistant to 20 bar (200 meters) and has Glashütte Original’s in house 39-11 automatic manufactory movement with 40 hours of power reserve and oscillating at 4Hz/28,800vph. According to Glashütte it delivers precision, reliability, and resistance. The movement is exquisitely finished with Glashütte strip finish, heavy skeletonised rotor, bevelled edges, and polished steel parts. However, the watch does not come with a open case back design which is mainly because the depths it has to withstand. 

The SeaQ Reed Green is perfectly suited for active outdoor days and will stand out with its distinctive sporty style. Its enduring quality will ensure safety at great depths underwater and will be perfectly at home on land as well. Choice of different straps makes it a simple matter to adapt the watch to the wearer’s individual style. Whether the occasion is a casual picnic with friends or an elegant evening at an exclusive restaurant – the SeaQ is always the right choice. It comes with stainless steel bracelet, rubber strap and synthetic grey strap. 

Reference: 1-39-11-13-83

Glashütte Original SeaQ in Reed Green Specification:

  • Case: 39.5mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Dial: Reed Green
  • Crystal: Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
  • Water resistance: 200 meters
  • Movement: Calibre 39-11
  • Power reserve: minimum of 40 hours
  • Strap: Bracelet, Rubber or Synthetic straps

Australian Pricing: From $13,450.00

Availability: May 2021

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Glashutte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 – Limited Edition https://www.watchadvice.com.au/6861/glashutte-original-alfred-helwig-tourbillon-1920-limited-edition/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/6861/glashutte-original-alfred-helwig-tourbillon-1920-limited-edition/#respond Mon, 05 Oct 2020 06:32:58 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=6861 Glashutte Original have been pioneering watchmaking and pushing the boundaries in developing in house complex mechanical movements for decades. The German watchmaker was founded in 1994 by the privatisation of the conglomerate formed from the watch companies based in Glashutte. There are no surprises why Galshutte Original now runs the German School of Watchmaking which was founded in 1878 in the centre of this German mountain town.  The school today is named after its most famous student and instructor: ALFRED HELWIG.

The German Watchmaking School in Glashütte was founded in 1878. Through its training of a great number of master watchmakers, it achieved considerable influence over the art of German watchmaking as a whole. In 1913, at the age of 27, Alfred Helwig was appointed to a position as technical instructor at the famous training institute. There he dedicated himself – together with his master class students – to the development of particularly accurate timepieces featuring cantilevered tourbillons, which Helwig called “rotary gear watches”. From 1920, a series of such watches was developed under his direction and in accordance with his concept. When tested by the German Naval Observatory in Hamburg, the general testing centre for precision clocks and watches, they achieved excellent results. Alfred Helwig taught at the renowned watchmaking school for 41 years, during which he trained more than 800 apprentice watchmakers. His publications remain important reference works for watchmakers, regleurs and watch collectors today. Since 2008 the historic building that once housed the German Watchmaking School Glashütte has been home not only to the German Watch Museum Glashütte, but also to the Historic Workshop of Glashütte Original, whose staff specialise in the restoration and maintenance of valuable timepieces made in Glashütte.

2020 is the 100th anniversary of one of the most sophisticated inventions of haute horlogerie: the design of the Flying Tourbillon by Glashütte master watchmaker Alfred Helwig. In his honour Glashütte Original presents the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 – Limited Edition, featuring a classic, elegant face. Inspired by historic models built by Helwig and his students at the German Watchmaking School Glashütte, this new interpretation of the “whirlwind” is positioned, like its predecessors, with understated elegance on the reverse of the movement.

Glashutte Originals’ new timepiece exudes elegance, exceptional craftsmanship and is technically sophisticated. The masterpiece presented in rose gold case is limited to 25 pieces. The dial is fashioned in solid gold and subsequently silverplated by friction. A railroad chapter ring and rod index appliques lend the timepiece an elegant, classic appearance. The filigree baton-style hands in rose gold contribute to the understated look of the watch.

The only indication on the face of the timepiece that says this watch is a tourbillon is the inscription ‘Tourbillon’ which is inscribed in the seconds display positioned at 6 o’ clock. This indication is subtle but makes you go on a look out for where the Flying Tourbillon is hidden. As we mentioned earlier, this exceptional movement is hidden on the reverse of the movement – in keeping with the historic models of Helwig’s era. 

The Flying Tourbillon was developed in Glashütte in 1920 by one of the most eminent of German watchmakers: Alfred Helwig. In contrast to the classic tourbillion anchored on both sides, Helwig’s elegant construction required only a single anchor on the underside, with the result that it appears to be flying within its cage. In an open frame, the balance and escapement revolve steadily around their own axis at precisely 360° per minute. In this way, the tourbillon effectively counters the negative influence of gravity on the rate precision.

This timepiece is powered by the superbly finished Calibre 54-01 manual winding movement, which features a remarkable running time of 100 hours. The eye-catching element on the reverse of the movement is, of course, the filigree Flying Tourbillon. Numerous elaborate decorations and finishes such as the sunburst decoration on the spring barrel cover, Glashütte stripes on the three-quarter plate, blued screws and screw-mounted gold chatons, as well as a great number of polished steel parts, contribute to the fascination of this masterpiece of the Glashütte art of watchmaking. A brown Louisiana alligator leather strap with a pin buckle ensures a secure fit on the wrist.

Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 Specification:

Model Reference: 1-54-01-01-01-01
Case Diameter: 40mm
Dial: Solid gold, silver-plated by friction, with railroad chapter ring and appliques in rose gold
Case: Rose gold, front and back glass in sapphire crystal
Functions: Hour, minute, small second, Flying Tourbillon 
Movement: Calibre 54-01 Manual wind
Power Reserve: 100 hours
Water Resistance: 3 Bar

Australian Retail Pricing : $183,050.00

Availability: Limited Edition of 25 pieces

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Glashütte Original expands the SeaQ line https://www.watchadvice.com.au/6244/glashutte-original-expands-the-seaq-line/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/6244/glashutte-original-expands-the-seaq-line/#respond Thu, 20 Aug 2020 14:44:40 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=6244 One of the best luxury dive watches of recent years, the Glashutte Original SeaQ, is set to receive an expansion to its line-up of phenomenal timepieces. In 2019, Glashutte Original launched its line of luxury divers under the banner of its “Spezialist” collection, these watches took heavy inspiration from the brands very first dive watch offerings, launched in 1969.

Two new models are set to debut in September of 2020, both in stainless steel, both with blue dials, but both worlds apart in extravagance. 

The brand will release a blue sunburst dial variant of the SeaQ, complete with a unidirectional bezel which features a deep blue ceramic inlay, taking up the blue of the lustrous dial. The bezel will feature full minute click markers and supa-luminova triangle at 12 O’clock. 

The second watch set for release will feature the same, delicate sunburst blue dial and applied indices as its counterpart. However, this watch will take luxurious, extravagant dive watches to new heights. Glashutte Original are replacing the ceramic bezel inlay, and in its stead setting 47 brilliant cut diamonds and a single blue sapphire, ensuring a truly dazzling appearance.  

Of course, due to the diamonds and sapphire set into the rotating bezel, this watch won’t meet DIN and ISO dive watch standards like the other, but we are sure that can be forgiven with just how incredible this watch looks.

Both of the new timepieces will feature solid case backs, engraved with a wave pattern and trident and then screwed into position and aligned. Beneath the solid case back, Glashutte Original power the pieces using the manufacture calibre 39-11 automatic movement. As always the movement is finished to very high standards, it will also provide hacking, hand winding and a rated power reserve of 40 hours.

Both watches will be cased at 40mm in diameter and available on a full stainless-steel bracelet and blue nylon straps. The non-diamond variation will also be available of a black rubber strap with relief pattern.

Prices for the ceramic bezel SeaQ blue start from $15,300.00 AUD

Prices for the diamond SeaQ blue start from $24,550.00 AUD

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Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer – Limited Edition Revealed https://www.watchadvice.com.au/6048/glashutte-original-senator-chronometer-limited-edition-revealed/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/6048/glashutte-original-senator-chronometer-limited-edition-revealed/#respond Wed, 05 Aug 2020 14:03:00 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=6048 Glashütte Original has recently just unveiled the Senator Chronometer Limited edition model. Belonging to Glashütte Original’s Senator Collection, the latest Senator Chronometer is an update on a pre-existing model that made its debut in 2009. In 2010, the Senator Chronometer was voted “Watch of the Year” by the German trade magazine Armbanduhren. Since it’s inception, the Senator Chronometer has become a successful model that is now permanent in the Senator Collection, with on-going updates coming throughout the years. 

In July this year, Glashütte Original has released the latest Senator Chronometer model in a white gold case, with a dial made from solid gold and the manufactory movement being gold plated. 

The German brand Glashütte Original is no stranger to chronometers. Chronometers back in the old days were used as exceptionally accurate instruments in which they were used for navigation purposes to determine, by the precise time of day, the exact position of the naval ship. Glashütte Original began manufacturing marine chronometers in 1886, which after being tested by the Naval Observatory in Hamburg, achieved fantastic results. 

The standards to which Glashütte Original make their chronometers in modern times are still of the highest quality as it was back then. In the contemporary world, a timepiece can only truly be qualified as a chronometer if an authorised testing institute has certified it. Glashütte Original’s chronometer timepieces all get accredited by the German Calibration Service, where their tests are based on the German Chronometer Standard. 

The Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer limited edition comes in an 18ct white gold 42mm case. The bezel has a concave shape which Glashütte Original states was inspired from historic timepieces

as it allows more visual space for the dial. The bezel also comes with knurled edges so that better grip can be provided. The dial, as mentioned earlier, is solid gold and features two unique counters at 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock positions. 

Historical marine chronometers inspired these counters as they include a small second counter at the 6 o’clock position and a running time display at 12 o’clock position. The running time display also has a subtle day/night indicator. The day/night indication works from 6 am until 6 pm a small circle will appear in white. From 6 pm until 6 am the circle will turn black, indicating night time. The counters have also been milled into the dial, which adds additional depth. A Panorama Date window is also located at 3 o’clock, with the background of the date matching the dial quite nicely. 

The Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer also features whats termed as “The Corrector” which located at the 4 o’clock position, allows the wearer to set the date quickly. 

Glashütte Original has opted to use Arabic numerals for the hour indices along with a railroad-style minute track. The hour and minute hands are pear-shaped blue steel, with a similar design used for the hands on the counters as well. 

Glashütte Original has used the Calibre 58-03 manual winding movement in the Senator Chronometer limited edition. The Calibre 58-03 manufacture movement features a more refined second-stop mechanism. When the crown is pulled out, the time is stopped with the second hand resetting to zero. While this happens, simultaneously, the minute hand will advance to the next full minute index. When the wearer adjusts the time of day by turning the crown, the hand will jump from one-minute index to the next, which will ensure that the seconds and minutes relationship is kept the same. The Calibre 58-03 movement has a frequency of 4 Hz (28, 800 VPH) and a power reserve of approximately 44 hours and 40 minutes. 

This timepiece does come with an open-case back, where the colourful movement can be seen quite clearly. The wheel bridge has been plated in silver, which then has been given a galvanic coating in rose gold. The other components that form the frame have also been coated in galvanic rose gold. When one looks at the case back, it’s very aesthetically pleasing to look at. The screw-mounted gold chantons, polished and bevelled steel parts, hand-engraved balance all with the different colours all mix in together to create not just a timepiece, but a piece of art. 

The Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer limited edition comes standard in a dar blue Louisiana alligator leather strap, which matches nicely with the blue markings and hands on the dial. Much like the predecessors in the 19th and 20th century, the Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer is made to be a precise timepiece with perfect legibility and beautiful aesthetics to match. Limited to only 25 pieces, the Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer is priced at $45,000.00 AUD.

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Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite – now in midnight blue https://www.watchadvice.com.au/5550/glashutte-original-senator-cosmopolite-now-in-midnight-blue/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/5550/glashutte-original-senator-cosmopolite-now-in-midnight-blue/#respond Wed, 24 Jun 2020 16:01:23 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=5550 The Saxon watchmaker Glashütte Original has released a new version of their successful model, the Senator Cosmopolite. Ideally suited for travellers and globe trotters, the Senator Cosmopolite comes well equipped for such occasions. The latest version of the Senator Cosmopolite features an exceptionally high-contrast dial with a beautiful midnight blue finish. 

Regular travellers understand the importance of having a watch with easy readability, especially in low light conditions such as night flights in darkened aeroplanes. When you go through sleepless nights travelling between continents, and your body clock isn’t in sync, you at least want your watch to be. This is where the reliability of the timepiece is also essential. Most dual time zone watches are somewhat reliable, however, they can be let down by the readability of the dial. 

To address this issue, the engineers and watchmakers at Glashütte Original got together at the company’s in-house manufacturing facility in Pforzheim, to optimise the legibility of the dial while also retaining the aesthetic factor. 

The latest Senator Cosmopolite comes in a 44mm polished/satin-brushed stainless steel case, with sapphire crystals both front and back. The dial has a galvanic blue with sunray finish, which perfectly complements the applied hour markers, hands and counters. Glashütte Original has gone with sharp finishing for the Senator Cosmopolite, with the hour and minute hands along with counter hands having a sword-like shape. Combine this with the minute rod hour markers, and this gives the Senator Cosmopolite a very refined look. 

The numerals, details and lettering done throughout the dial and on the counters are printed in white. This provides a nice contrast on the midnight blue background, which ultimately also increases the legibility of the dial. The hour and minute hand are also inlaid with white Super-LumiNova. Besides having refined beauty and easy legibility, the Senator Cosmopolite also comes with other real-world though out functions for the avid traveller. 

The Senator Cosmopolite is powered by the automatic winding, Calibre 89-02, which can provide up to 72 hours of power reserve. This watch also comes with an open case-back, which showcases a portion of the movement. What is visible, however, Glashütte Original has made sure is shown in the most artistic way possible. 

The Calibre 89-02 movement can display the time of day in two time zones at once, which negates the wearer from having to calculate the time difference manually. The Senator Cosmopolite includes a timezone ring that displays a choice of all 35 different timezones currently in use. This display is shown using the official IATA location code, which represents an international airport in the relevant time zone. 

The 35 timezones are also split into two different colours to showcase differences from Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). There are 24 time zones shown in an IATA code white, which are the time zones offset from (GMT) by a full one hour. There are eight time zones that have an offset by half an hour and three time zones that have three-quater hour offset, all displayed by an IATA code in light blue. The counter at 9 o’clock position indicates day/night for local time, while the two windows at the 8 o’clock position allow the wearer to set summer time (Daylight saving time – DST) 

and standard time (Standard Time – STD). The counter at 12 o’clock shows the home time alongside the power indicator. The signature Glashütte Original Panorama can also be found at the 4 o’clock position.

The Glashütte Original – Senator Cosmopolite in midnight blue, comes with a blue Louisiana alligator leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet with an 8-step fine adjustment mechanism. Either strap you choose, the overall look will ensure to leave a lasting impression on the wearer. The refined and clean dial on the midnight blue background provides excellent contrast and legibility on a timepiece that’s packed with essentials for the travel enthusiast. The Glashütte Original – Senator Cosmopolite in midnight blue, is undoubtedly a contender for a dual time zone watch with not just reliability, but the looks to match as well. 

Australian Pricing : $32,050.00

Availability : July 2020

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