The GS9 Club first originated in Japan and is a membership organisation specifically for watch enthusiasts who purchased a Grand Seiko timepiece from either a Grand Seiko Boutique, Salon or Mastershop. The GS9 Club, in return, offers members private access to special events, gifts and exclusive content. This club will be available for member access through a virtual environment and in-person events. 

Grand Seiko also wants to further educate customers and clients on the intricate details of their watchmaking, including the stunning craftsmanship that goes into each of the brand’s watches, the cutting-edge technology and the history and heritage of this Japanese brand. The GS9 Club will surely go a long way in achieving this, as watch aficionados will be able to connect more with the brand and its art of watchmaking. 

If you want to sign up for the GS9 Club, follow the link here.

Grand Seiko Australia Pink Flannel Flower Auction

Speaking of Grand Seiko’s art of watchmaking, the brand started an auction for their Australian Exclusive Limited Edition Timepiece SBGJ269 to raise money for the Foundation for National Parks & Wildlife. 

This Grand Seiko model, SBGJ269, was inspired by the pink flannel flower (Actinotus forsythii). When the SBGJ269 was first released on October 2022, WatchAdvice had access to get a first look at the watch, which you can find the review here

Grand Seiko chose the pink flannel flower as a reference for this model because of how unique this flower is and the meaning that it carries with it. The pink flannel flower blooms under rainfall following a bushfire, bringing about new life and new colours to land that has been scorched by fires. It is a sign of rebirth and new beginnings and nature’s incredible ability to overcome adversity. 

The creation and auction of this timepiece is one of the reasons why Grand Seiko has partnered with the Foundation of National Parks & Wildlife to help support their “Healing our Land” projects. Australia has the world’s second-largest number of unique flora and fauna species, yet one of the highest rates of extinction in the world. Our native lands and species are endangered from disaster after disaster. And when we lose them, they are lost forever. The proceeds made from the auction of the Grand Seiko SBGJ269 will help with the long-term restoration of areas that floods and fires have destroyed. 

Grand Seiko released the SBGJ269 in a limited run of 50 models, with the 50^th piece being auctioned off to help this great cause. Alongside the sale of this timepiece will be a one of king sketch by the designer of the Flannel Flower watch model, Mr Akira Yoshida. This auctioned timepiece will have a third strap option alongside the original stainless steel bracelet and grey leather strap. This third strap will be made to measure for the auction winner. 

A substantial two weeks for Grand Seiko in Australia, with the opening of the first GS9 Club in late June and now the auction to help the restoration of Australia’s landscapes. Grand Seiko is making it well known that its Australian client base forms an integral part of the brand, and we hope to see more timepieces dedicated to Australia and its natural beauty. 

If you would like to bid on the final timepiece of the SBGJ269 , visit the link here

The GADA Watch – Go Anywhere, Do Anything Watch is a term that’s been popping up a little bit lately in both the press and across multiple forums. So it got us thinking, do people know what it is, do they have one themselves, and what are some great options if you’re looking for a watch that is truly Go Anywhere, Do Anything?

The Go Anywhere, Do Anything watch. Sounds like a myth, or maybe just a new term for the “One Watch Collection” which is more probable. But essentially, it’s what the name says – a watch that you can go anywhere with (and I mean anywhere) and do anything with it on your wrist.

With a GADA watch, it does need to be versatile and appropriate for many situations or occasions. For this reason, we’ve created a bit of a checklist in terms of what boxes a great GADA watch has to check off:

1. It has to be robust – At least 100m water resistance for any water related adventures, solid case construction and ideally on steel or rubber (leather isn’t great for lots of outdoor activities or climates).
2. It has to look good – This is a Go Anywhere, Do Anything watch don’t forget. So it needs to be at home on the wrist when wearing a suit for those more formal occasions, but equally (see point 1) be worn in casual settings and not look weird in hiking gear or a pair of board shorts.
3. It has to be highly legible – Again, see point 1, but a good GADA watch needs a dial that’s easy to read in the day, and at night. Be it at the beach, hiking in the mountains, out to dinner with friends or camping at 2am when you wonder “what that noise was outside my tent”!
4. It has be the right size – Now this should go without saying, but it’s probably no good having a behemoth on your wrist if you’re going from beach to the boardroom. So for the sake of this exercise, and keeping with the trends today, anything larger than 44mm is a no go, and event then, some 44mm are still too big for many people.
5. It has to be timeless – This is probably a slightly controversial last point, but if you’re going to have a GADA watch for a long while, then it probably needs to stand the test of time. After all, if it doesn’t and trends change in the watch world, which they frequently do, you’ll need to be buying a new GADA watch more frequently than you’d like!

So now that we’ve covered what a great GADA watch should be, let’s explore some options at different price points for a GADA watch should you be in the market for a watch that’s versatile and gets you out of trouble in any situation.

Grand Seiko SBGN027 GMT Quartz

Kicking off, the Grand Seiko SBGN027 GMT Quartz is a great value choice for a GADA watch. It’s got classic looks, reminiscent of a Rolex Explorer II, the GMT function and date for those that travel a lot, and a ridiculously accurate movement, the Calibre 9F86 which is accurate to +/- 10 seconds a year!

The 39mm case is only 12mm think, and has 200m WR with a screw down crown, so it’s robust and easy wearing, plus the black dial and lumed indices make it highly legible anywhere and anytime. Being a smaller sized sports watch, you could dress it up and hide under the cuff if needed.

Australian Recommended RRP: $4,900

Tudor Black Bay 58

Whilst there are a lot of BB58’s now in the range, we’ve chosen the classic BB58 OG with steel bracelet and black dial with the gilt markers.

This ticks all the boxes and for under $6k too. A 200m WR dive watch, looks great on the wrist from suits to the sand, it’s very legible given it’s a dive watch and at 39mm, it wears well on almost anyone and for any occasion. As the BB58 was designed based on the Tudor and Rolex Subs of old, it’s timeless and a modern classic. What more could you want?!

Australian Recommended RRP: $5,590

Omega Seamaster Diver 300

If the Omega Seamaster is good enough for James Bond to wear 24/7, then it stands to reason it should be the perfect GADA watch!

Again another diver (there’s a reason they are so popular in demand), we’ve chose the black dial variant with the black rubber strap as you can dress this up or down, and wear anywhere for anything. It’s as at home in the ocean as it is on the wrist playing Black Jack at the Casino, and with METAS certification, incredibly accurate and highly robust. It checks all the boxes.

Australian Recommended RRP: $8,350 (on rubber strap)

Breitling SuperOcean Heritage

The Breitling SuperOcean Heritage in 2-tone Rose Gold is a slightly different look. Not quite a diver, not quite a dress watch, it’s a nice happy medium that’s designed to take whatever you throw at it.

It’s a good looking watch, and the touch of the Rose Gold makes it perfect for more formal occasions. However on the rubber strap with a push button folding clasp and sliding micro adjust and with 200m WR and screw down crown it’s anything but a formal watch! It wears well at 42mm and on most wrists under the cuff if it isn’t too tight.

Australian Recommended RRP: $9,090

IWC Pilot Chronograph 41

For something a little different, the IWC Pilot’s Chrono 41 is a good option, due to it’s robustness being a pilot watch and the new 100m WR. Combine this with the added day, date and timing functions, the IWC Pilot Chronograph is highly versatile and at 41mm, wears very well.

This particular version is on leather, but with the IWC EasX-CHANGE system, swap this to the blue rubber and you’ve got a great GADA watch option

Australian Recommended RRP: $11,400

You may have noticed we’ve stayed away from Rolex. Most people gravitate towards the Submariner or Explorer for a GADA watch (with good reason) and we felt they were too obvious to include in this article, and lets face it, there’s a wide world of watches out there and whilst we’ve picked 5 GADA watches we think are great options, there’s plenty more we just can’t cover in one article.

Do you agree with these choices? Do you have a great GADA watch? Let us know in the comments section below!

Each year, the watch world waits to see what wonders come out of the industry’s premier trade show. Some years we see brilliance, and others years not so much. I feel that this year was a good year for the watch world, and we saw some really great pieces launched, some cool novelties and some brands just did some nice and timely updates to their core models. And from all reports, it seems that most commentators felt the same. So without further ado, here are my top 12 picks.

Piaget’s Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

Whilst Piaget added two new Perpetual Calendar models to their Polo line, my pick was the Rose gold and green. It just looks great, and builds on their release from earlier in year. At 8.65mm, it’s thin, and a the movement is stunning and complex. which can be seen through there caseback.

The fact that Piaget has also given it the quick change SingleTouch system, to swap out the green alligator or rubber strap just adds to this allowing you change the look, depending on your mood. At AUD $116,000, it’s not cheap, but you get a lot of watch for this!

You can read all about it here.

Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

Panerai went back to their roots this year, and told us their Storia Leggendaria. With this, bringing us the new Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 days) in hand finished eSteel.

Whilst not the most techically impressive, although it is an 8-day manual wind, so this is pretty decent, these are cool looking, and do hark back to their original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Also, each model is hand finished to give it the distressed look, so essentially, all unique!

Check out our write up about it here

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

Jaeger-LeCoultre focused on their Reverso Tribute line this year, and some of their models was absolutely fantastic. One of which was their Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which gives you 2 great watches in one!

Whilst each model looked stunning, my pic was the Pink Gold variant. The way the details contrast on the chronograph face, along with the “floating” look of the dial and bottom register are second to none!

For more on this, click here.

Hermes H08 In Rose Gold & Titanium

The Hermes H08 in Rose Gold and Titanium was a surprise for me. I’m not normally a fan of Hermes watches, but this model, in this combination jut works, and looks both casual, and just a little bit formal – it’s a paradox!

Hermes have used a good mix of Rose gold, titanium and black ceramic, and paired with the black rubber strap and the multi-faceted dial, all works together and is something a little different to the norm.

You can check out our write up on it here

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN “Oceana”

I’m a sucker for a good pilot’s watch, and need to add one back into the collection. And the new IWC Pilot’s Chrono 41mm in Oceana Blue is a hot contender. Although, speaking to the IWC boutique, there’s not a lot of detail on when this will be in, so I guess I’ll have to wait.

IWC have done some great releases in coloured ceramic and this is just the next to come out, and with the denim strap, looks like the perfect casual summer watch. Blending this with IWC’s DNA in pilots watches and you’ve a great piece.

Fly over to our write up on it here

Tudor Black Bay 41 Burgundy Dial

Tudor are a little more “edgy” than their big sister, but sometimes, a nice update is all you need. The Tudor Black Bay 41 with the burgundy dial was just this. Nothing ground-breaking, but a slimmer case, refined details on the dial and a choice now of three different bracelet/strap options with their T-Fit micro adjust.

Tudor have also made the movement just that little bit better – now Master Chronometer certified to 0/+5s per day and keeping the 70 hour power reserve. What more could you ask for?

For more details, check it out here

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm XPS

Chopard’s new Alpine Eagle in Lucent Steel and a stunning Monte Rosa pink dial and small seconds was one of those watches where Chopard took an already good watch and made it better! The addition of the small seconds is a nice touch, and the dial is just a stunning colour.

In this model, you now the calibre L.U.C 96.40-L movement, meaning the watch has slimmed down to just 8mm thick and the movement is beautiful with an 18k micro rotor powering it.

You can find out more about this model here

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

The Odysseus Chronograph was one of the more truly unique releases at this years event, and it was a first for the brand, having never done an automatic chronograph before now.

One of the most interesting aspects of the Odysseus Chronograph is the dial configuration using the outer track and the central seconds and minutes hands to tell the elapsed time, rather than sub dials. Plus the re-set to zero function is pretty cool, and something not seen before.

You can read all about it here

Rolex Yacht-Master Titanium

Rolex aren’t normally known for their innovative releases, but this year, they’ve come out with a first for The Crown – a sports watch in Titanium in the form of the Yacht-Master in 42mm. This is a great move from Rolex, adding another variant to the Yacht-Master line, and giving people a watch that is less dressy than the standard 40mm models, and a completely different look to the precious metal models.

It’s a great stealthy looking sports watch, and due to the titanium, is light and durable and fit for the purpose it was designed for, as we saw when Sir Ben Ainslie wore the prototype a couple of years back – leaving the world waiting for its release!

Check out my thoughts on the Yacht-Master Ti here

Grand Seiko Tentagraph

Grand Seiko have never done a fully mechanical chronograph before, having limited this complication to their spring drive models. But this year, they released a fairly under the radar chronograph that is fully mechanical. However, look at the details and its more impressive than it would initially seem.

A Ten beats per seconds chronograph, accurate to -3/+5s per day, tested over 20 days, housed in an all titanium case and finished to the standards that you expect from Grand Seiko. Its all in the small details, and this is what makes this watch a sleeper!

To check out the full write up, click here

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X

This was probably the craziest watch release this year (I cold be wrong), but you’d expect nothing less from Roger Dubuis. The Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X is designed in the theme of the new limited edition 50th anniversary Lamborghini Countach LPI 800-4. Hence the name.

Lamborghini design cues are all over this watch, from the engine case between the 90° V-Shape Double Flying Tourbillon, to the way the case looks like the wheels and tyres. It’s a serious piece of kit, to go with a serious car. But not for us mere mortals at $1,210,000 and limited to 8 pieces, I won’t be lining up anytime soon!

Check out the full write up and pics here

Bell & Ross Diver White Bronze

This may not have been on many people’s top 12, but I’ve included it for this reason. Bell & Ross have created a driver with a difference, and whilst not vintage in style, it’s got vintage style cues that just work with the overall design aesthetic.

The bronze case, paired with the opaline dial and brown strap give it a unique look, and the fact that it is ISO-6425 complied means it’s a true divers watch. It may not be for everyone, but that in my eyes isn’t a bad thing, as it means you probably won’t see many in the wild, and that’s a talking point in my mind!

Check out our coverage of it here

Well that’s it for another year of Watches and Wonders. It was a great show this year, and there were some brilliant releases, and not so brilliant releases. Whilst I couldn’t cover all of the releases here (it wouldn’t be a top 12 if I could!), you can check out all of the brands and models covered at Watches and Wonder 2023 here.

Whilst Grand Seiko have been making chronographs for quite sometime, up ’til now, they’ve all been powered by their famous Spring Drive Movement – a combination of quartz and mechanical fused together. The mechanical part of the movement provides the power to the quartz oscillator which then drives the movement with incredible accuracy, around half a second a day.

But first, lets get this out of the way. What exactly does Tentagraph mean? Well, the answer is simple. Its a kind of an acronym and stands for TEN beats per second, Three Days, Automatic ChronoGRAPH. TENTAGRAPH. Lets move on…

The Grand Seiko Tentagraph however is a full automatic movement based on the revolutionary high-beat Calibre 9SA5. Like Calibre 9SA5, the new Tentagraph Calibre 9SC5 beats ten times per second, ensuring high accuracy when measuring elapsed time as well as the time of day. Grand Seiko, not one to do things by halves, has given the Tentagraph two barrels so the watch runs for three days even when the chronograph is in operation, making (according to Grand Seiko research) the Tentagraph the 10-beat chronograph with the longest power reserve in the industry today.

Grand Seiko also make sure that the Tentagraph is tested and running to their exacting standards. Over 20 days, GS tests the watch. Firstly it assesses it in six positions and at three temperatures over 17 days, then it tests over an additional 3 days whilst the chronograph is in operation. This ensures that the movement is accurate to -3/+5 seconds per day.

Whilst we’re nerding out on the movement, it would be wrong of us to leave out the next part. Grand Seiko have given the Tentagraph their new Dual Impulse Escapement, which efficiently transfers energy to the free-sprung balance wheel indirectly through the pallet fork and also directly from the escape wheel. This assists in generating greater efficiency, which in turn, gives the Calibre 9SC5 its long power reserve.

The Grand Seiko Tentagraph isn’t just about the movement however. They have produced an extremely good looking chronograph. The case and bracelet are made of high-intensity titanium, which is about 30% lighter and more scratch resistant than stainless steel to maximize durability. The case has a combination of brushed and polished surfaces, with lightly curving lugs that are built for comfort. The Zaratsu polishing on the bevelled edges and ends of the lugs and case gives the watch a more even flow and the shape is slightly reminiscent of the Chronomaster Sports case design.

Like all modern Grand Seiko’s, the dial of the Tentagraph is a work of art, and takes inspiration from the surrounding world. The watch’s dial pattern evokes the magnificence of Mt. Iwate, the soaring peak visible from the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, where the Tentagraph and all other Grand Seiko mechanical watches are hand assembled and adjusted. The blue hue is meant to represent the night sky above Mt. Iwate, and encourages us to look upwards towards it and the peak. I think there is something in that evocative picture for all of us.

The Tentagraph has a more traditional curved box shaped crystal, which leads into the scratch proof ceramic bezel, complete with Tachymeter scale. This combined with the dial and redesigned indexes and hands, helps the Tentagraph to achieve maximum legibility, allowing the wearer to check the time with just a glance. Furthering this, Grand Seiko has designed the seconds hand of the chronograph and the minutes hand to gently curve at the ends, bringing them closer to the markers for even easier reading.

Final Thoughts

Grand Seiko has designed, crafted and made a nice looking chronograph with all the traditional hallmarks of a sports chronograph. Whilst this doesn’t look all that different on the surface to any other sports steel chronograph, dive a little deeper and it’s actually a lot more! The use of Titanium and ceramic sets this apart straight away, and as does Grand Seiko’s finishing on, well, everything. If you’ve ever looked at a Grand Seiko movement, or hands etc under a macro lens, you’ll know what I’m talking about. GS dials are just magical, and the Tentagraph’s is no different.

Then you get under the hood, and the Calibre 9SC5 is Grand Seiko engineering at its finest – and on its first ever automatic mechanical chronograph movement too. The one thing that gets me is the price. At AUD $20,500, it’s a lot. You get a lot of watch, but I can’t help feel its maybe a little overpriced. This is Daytona money here (assuming you pay and can get one at retail) or just shy of an Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Blue Side Of The Moon with Adventurine dial. However, the Tentagraph will fly under the radar, and should someone notice it an ask “Hey, nice watch, what is it?” You’ll most certainly have a talking point!

Reference: SLGC001

Specifications:

• Case: 43.2mm diameter. 15.2mm Thick
• Case Material: High-intensity titanium, screw down crown
• Dial: Deep blue texture dial with 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock and 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock
• Crystal: Box style Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. See through case back
• Bezel: Black ceramic with graduated Tachymeter scale
• Movement: Calibre 9SC5 automatic chronograph. 36,000 vph / 5Hz (10 beats per second) and accurate to +5 / -3 seconds per day
• Power reserve: 72 Hours with chronograph running
• Water Resistance: 100m / 10bar
• Bracelet: Titanium bracelet with three-fold clasp with push button release
• Warranty: 5 years factory warranty 

AUSTRALIAN RECOMMENDED RETAIL PRICE:  AUD $20,500

AVAILABILITY: Available at Grand Seiko Boutiques & select retail partners starting in June 2023. Available for pre-order online at grandseikoboutique.com.au

After the creation of the Laurel timepiece, there were many advancements in the art of watchmaking. Each new watch creation bought with it more ideas and many achievements. One of these achievements was the first Grand Seiko watch created in 1960. This year is one of historical importance, as it marks the 110th anniversary of the release of the Laurel timepiece. This milestone is being celebrated by the brand with a series of commemorative timepieces, including a Grand Seiko limited edition that draws design inspiration from the brand’s extensive design and technological heritage.

This brand new limited edition model is a re-creation of the first Grand Seiko made in 1960. The original model’s standout characteristic was durability and longevity, which is the central theme behind this timepiece as well. The new Grand Seiko SBGW295 comes with a Brilliant Hard Titanium shell whilst still retaining all the elements of what made the original 1960 model so loved.

The watch comes in a 38mm Brilliant Hard Titanium case which offers a water resistance of 3 bar (30m). The dial is protected by a high-definition dual-curved sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. The dial is made from Urushi lacquer which is synonymous with traditional Japanese craft. Urushi lacquer can be traced all the way back to Japan’s Jomon Period (13, 100 BCE – 400 BCE). While Urushi lacquer is most commonly produced abroad, Grand Seiko has sourced the lacquer straight from Japan. Grand Seiko has also given its own treatment to the Urushi lacquer to prevent its colour from fading or changing over time.

The hour indices and Grand Seiko logo on the dial are also done with hand-applied lacquer. These beautiful elements were created by Urushi master Isshu Tamura in his studio in the city of Kanazawa (which translates to “marsh of gold”). The markers and logo were created by adding layer upon layer of lacquer to give them a three-dimensional profile. Therefore when you look at these elements on the dial, they don’t just look like simple two-dimensional applications but rather an elevated appearance. Creating these elements on the dial is certainly no easy task as requires incredible precision to the highest level. Producing it with such accuracy, especially on a curved surface is only something that can be done with a master’s touch.

Grand Seiko has given this anniversary limited edition the manually would Calibre 9S64 movement. The movement carries a slim profile which allows the timepiece to only be 10.9mm thick and works at an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds a day. The movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 VpH (4Hz) and gives out a fairly decent power reserve of 72 hours. This essentially means that the watch will need to be re-wound fully after three days of wear. Grand Seiko has given this SBGW295 an open case back, and even though much of the manual wound movement is covered, the beautiful finish on the plate can still be admired.

The Grand Seiko SBGW295 is offered with two leather straps. The first strap incorporates a traditional Japanese weaving technique called yoroiori which back in the day was used for making Samurai armor! To enhance the watch strap’s durability, a skilled artisan has interlaced thin strips of calf leather and fabric together. The second strap of choice is a leather which was chosen for its softness, comfort, and unique texture.

This new anniversary limited edition by Grand Seiko retains many elements from the first model released by the brand back in 1960, whilst incorporating new design elements, movement, and materials to give it a modern touch. The curved dial and Grand Seiko lettering are all faithful to the original, while the Urushi lacquer gives it the contemporary look. This masterful creation of an iconic timepiece is limited to 500 models and can be purchased through Grand Seiko boutiques and select retail partners worldwide from February 2023.

Reference: SBGW295

Specification:

• Case: 38mm
• Case Material: Brilliant Hard Titanium case
• Dial: Urushi lacquer black dial with gold Urushi applications
• Crystal: High-definition dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 3 Bar (30m)
• Movement: Manual-wound Calibre 9S64
• Power reserve: 72 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Leather/ frabic strap with three-fold Brilliant Hard Titanium clasp with push button release. Additional leather strap also included.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $19, 950

Availability: February 2023 (limited 500-piece release)

The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT “Yukigesho” SBGJ271 is supposed to represent the winter season in Japan, with the dial of the watch evoking emotions of cold winter days. The watch has been given the nickname “Yukigesho” which translates to “snow-makeup” or the poetic expression to describe the dusting of snow.

Based on the Elegance GMT SBGM221, this new SBGJ271 variant features the same 39.5mm stainless steel case, but now sits at 14.1mm thick, which can be quite large for a GMT dress watch. This watch has a box-shaped sapphire crystal and has an overall water resistance rating of 30 meters. The model is offered as standard in a 3-link stainless steel bracelet.

While the downside of this timepiece may be its thickness, it more than makes up for it with the attention to detail present on the dial and movement. The dial is designed to show the lacquered floors that one would find in a traditional Japanese home or Buddhist temple. The snow that is picked up from the nearby trees can then be reflected on the dark floors, making them shine as white as the snow itself, which is the image portrayed by Grand Seiko in this dial.

The sharp hour hands and GMT hand, along with the hour indices which can be seen throughout the elegance collection are retained in this watch too, giving the artistic dial a very modern and refined design. The hour hands and indices are beveled in design, which means that when rotating the watch under light, they give off a beautiful shine.

The engine behind this timepiece is as the name of the watch suggests Grand Seiko’s in-house Hi-beat GMT caliber 9S86 movement. The caliber 9S86 movement offers a dual time function with a 24-hour hand and quick correction function of time difference which adjusts to a calendar.

The Hi-beat name refers to the movement’s impressive 5hz (36,000 VpH) frequency. This movement operates at 10 beats/second. As a reference standard movements operate at 4hz (28,800 Vph) (8 beats/sec) or 3Hz (21,600 VpH) (6 beats/sec). The movement also delivers and decent power reserve of approximately 55 hours. Grand Seiko offers the Hi-Beat GMT “Yukigesho” SBGJ271 with an open case back, which allows the user to see the stunning decorations of the movement on display.

Grand Seiko’s latest permanent addition to the elegance collection stays true to tradition and historic design while evoking the emotions of the wearer to Japanese seasonal scenery. The all-new Hi-Beat GMT “Yukigesho” SBGJ271 will be available for purchase from boutiques/ retailers and Grand Seiko’s E-commerce from March 2023.

Reference: SBGJ271G

Specification:

• Case: 39.5mm
• Case Material: Stainless Steel
• Dial: White Textured Dial
• Crystal: Box Shaped Sapphire
• Water resistance: 30 Meters
• Movement: Calibre 9S86
• Power reserve: 55 Hours
• Bracelet: 3-Link Stainless Steel Bracelet With Folding Clasp

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD 10, 600

Availability: March 2023 from Boutiques, Retailers, and E-commerce.

This latest creation by Grand Seiko was inspired by the Pink Flannel Flower (Actinotus forsythii). This flower is a symbol of the Australian spirit of resilience. The flower itself is very rare and only blooms under rainfall in the season following bushfires. The very image of something beautiful being born after a disastrous event is a showcase of nature’s ability to overcome adversity.

The Grand Seiko SBGJ269 comes in a 39.5mm stainless steel case with distinctive features from the brand, such as edges that are sharp and angular, as well as the sides which are Zaratsu polished to a distortion-free finish. The watch comes with a matching stainless steel bracelet as standard. An additional grey crocodile leather strap is also offered, which offers the contrast to let the beautiful dial stand out. 

The unique dial on this SBGJ269 portrays the stunning pinks of the blossoming flannel flower, while the red GMT hand reflects the colour of the flower buds just before they bloom. The pink finish on the dial has texture to it as well instead of a smooth finish, adding further aesthetic appeal to the timepiece. 

Grand Seiko has used their Hi-Beat 36000 GMT calibre 9S86 movement for this timepiece. This automatic movement operates at a frequency of 5Hz (36 000 VpH) while giving a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. The beauty of this movement can be viewed through the open case back. 

As an Australian first exclusive, the SBGJ269 is a beautiful timepiece telling the story of mother nature’s ferocity and resilience. This landmark timepiece is limited to 50 pieces and can be purchased from October 24th at the Australian Grand Seiko Boutiques and select Australian retail partners. 

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $10,600.00

For their latest timepiece, the Spring Drive 8 Day Jewelry Watch, Grand Seiko has chosen another unique aspect of the studio’s stunning and varied natural environment as the subject of another jewellery watch celebrating the company’s 140th anniversary.

The inspiration for the Spring Drive 8 Day Jewellery Watch comes from Mishaka Pond, where infinite green shadows are reflected in the calm water. Mishaka Pond is hidden in the forest east of Suwan Lake, not far from where the Micro Artist Studio is located. Its pristine crystal clear water is the perfect reflector for the growth of trees, which grow to the edge of the water and countless greens. This is a breathtaking sight, especially in the midsummer season, when the tranquillity seems to envelop and enchant every visitor, including the painter Kaji Higashiyama with his famous work “Emerald Green” in 1982, which perfectly depicts the beauty of the emerald green of the pond.

The Spring Drive 8 Day Jewellery timepiece comes in a 43mm platinum 950 case, which perfectly compliments the dial and hour and minute hands. This new Spring Drive timepiece uses a green mother-of-pearl dial and a green garnet index to show the passage of time with a calm and elegant atmosphere, just to capture the atmosphere of Mishaka Pond. There are 24 green garnets (0.63 carats) used throughout the dial. 12 are used for the hour indices, with the other 12 set on each hour marker on the outer portion of the dial. Watching the sliding second-hand move silently and continuously on the luxurious dial shows the essence of time in a novel, unique and profound way.

Between each green garnet hour marker, there are tapered baguette diamonds that act as the minute markers. They are set in an 18k white gold base, separated by 48 additional diamonds and 12 garnets, respectively placed around the mark to further enhance the depth and aesthetics of the dial. The gems arranged side by side on the entire dial require the dexterity of the craftsman; the gems are set between the extremely thin rails, and the most skilled jewellery craftsmen and women in the Shinshu Watch Studio accurately carry out this work. 

The movement inside this timepiece is the Spring Drive 8 day Caliber 9R01. The Calibre 9r01 makes use of three barrels which are arranged in sequence to deliver a staggering power reserve of 192 hours. The 8-day power reserve is shown by an indicator on the back of the watch which is visible through the sapphire case back. The exquisite finishing of the one-piece bridge has been created to show the image of Mt. Fuji, along with the rubies which represent the lights of Suwa City below Shiojiri. The Caliber 9R01 movement gives out accuracy of +/- 0.5 seconds per day (+/- 10 seconds per month). 

A black crocodile strap with a three-fold clasp and push-button release is used, which provides a nice contrasting effect against the dial. Available in Grand Seiko Boutiques in May 2021, this masterpiece will be offered in a limited edition run of just 15 pieces. 

Approximate recommended retail price: 195,000 Euro

At first glance, the phrase reads as if some form of pseudo philosophical jargon, the kind of slogan born in the Grand Seiko PR departments internship program. That is, until you hold a Grand Seiko in your hands, until you feel the piece and experience the brands physical manifestation of their philosophy. For the past week or so, I have been taking a look at the Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT. A watch from the Elegance line of Grand Seiko, and for that week I have found myself both enamoured and underwhelmed by the nature of this timepiece.

As a brand, Grand Seiko prides itself in their craftsmanship, they have been heralded for the famed Ziratsu polish, and admired for the intricacy and complexity of their dials. So it should be noted right away, the finishing and construction of the SBGM221 is first class. The watch has clearly been held to a very high standard during production, nothing is out of place, nothing is even remotely undercooked.

The SBGM221 spans a precise 39.5mm in diameter by an equally precise 13.7mm thick. Lug to lug the watch measures 46.3mm, this is achieved by the use of dramatically yet elegantly down curving lugs which hug the piece on to your wrist. I have a wrist size of 17.5cm and found the piece was right in the sweet spot of comfort for me personally, the watch could comfortably be worn down to as little as 15cm due primarily to the curvature of the lugs. 

The case of the SBGM221 is where I found the most wonder within the watch. Grand Seiko have employed the use of Ziratsu polish to perfection yet again. The watch features no matte or brushed finishing to its steel case or lugs, but with the clever use of bevelling and Ziratsu tin plate polishing, the case feels to be a conglomerate of textures, working in unison to create something truly beautiful. In particular, the bevelled edge of the lugs grows larger from the case to the tip, creating an almost waterfall like illusion that the bevel becomes the side profile. The case is not a sheer drop from the high polish bezel, it curves and swells around the piece and seemingly tucks into the screwed down case back. 

There is an absence of sharp edges to the case but always an abundance of precision. Each section rolls on to the next seamlessly and without fault. The knurling of the crown grips easily and winds the watch with satisfying ease. 

Being wound by the pull out crown is Grand Seiko’s calibre 9S66 automatic GMT movement. The 9S66 features a 3 day power reserve along with the integrated 24 hour GMT function. Being a fully integrated brand, each and every component of the movement is completely in house, and held completely to Grand Seiko’s lofty expectations. 

The brand guarantee the piece to keep time accurate to -1sec to +10sec per day throughout normal usage. This standard has been tested in house to 6 positions in a similar fashion to that of METAS.

The 35 jewel movement is well finished, the striping is even and consistent, the jewel atop the balance is well seated and vibrant. The only complaint to be had is that perhaps the finishing is a little plain, the rotor is partially skeletonised and often covers the only bit of depth in the balance spring. Opening up the main plate a little more and further skeletonising the rotor could leave the wearer with an even better view behind the sapphire case back. 

Functionally the movement operates smoothly and as expected. Hand winding is performed with the crown pushed in, pulled out to position one allows independent adjustment of the hour hand without adjusting minutes or the GMT. This function allows for a semi quick set date ability when you cross 12 o’clock, a date that can be adjusted bidirectionally I should add. At position two, the minutes and GMT hand are set. The addition of an independent GMT hand would have been a welcome one, but realistically the movement is simple to use and more than adequate for the price point.

As standard the watch features a dark brown crocodile leather strap, fixed with a stainless-steel twin trigger deployant clasp. The clasp is the style of deployant that mimics a classic tang and buckle attachment, throughout my time with the watch I found it to be secure and have never had the buckle release unexpectedly. Exterior decoration continues to be a strong point for the watch here, with the words Grand Seiko adorning the buckle inside a hammered dimpling texture.

It is dial side however, that my adoration of this watch slows somewhat. Grand Seiko have produced some spectacular dials in their history, the most famous of which “The snowflake” is a personal favourite. This is a brand that has emulated seasons to perfection on the faces of its watches, a brand that proudly had concentric radial spirals, trace the tessellated dial pattern on the SBGH267.

You may then understand why the ivory dial used in the SBGM221 leaves me feeling slightly underwhelmed. 

In every other way, the dial is as crisp and as well crafted as you expect with a Grand Seiko time piece. The hour markers are cut and polished superbly, they catch light with remarkable results. The bevelling applied to the hands adds depth and character, coming to a sharp and precise point that even under macro you cannot find a fault. The deep blue steel GMT hand is just the right length and shape that it both offers legibility when needed, but fades from view when not.

The printing of the GMT 24 hour numerals is crisp and clean, as too is the printing of Grand Seiko below the applied GS logo at 12 o’clock.

All of the precision that has gone into creating the dial of the SBGM221, is let down slightly by what can be described as a beige dial colour. I can’t help but feel that even a clean crisp white would have offered more to the wearer than the SBGM221 currently does. 

The SBGM221 is a watch I want to fall in love with, it has everything going for it. The movement is well made, decorated well, and offers a genuinely useful complication. The case is absolutely brilliant, it holds all other dress watch cases to a standard that frankly, many do not achieve. But unfortunately, the lack of inspiration in the dial leaves me wanting more. I am aware that this is a purely subjective criticism of the visual appeal of the watch, you may love the ivory colour, there is no denying the quality of the SBGM221, but watches are a personal expression. They are an expression of the wearer, and for me the SBGM221 gives and impression of beige and its just not one I can get behind in the end.

The 60th anniversary since the first Grand Seiko lands on the year 2020. It’s not just the 60th anniversary that Grand Seiko is celebrating, however. The number 60 is a unique number traditionally in Japan, as it signifies the moment of new energy and re-birth. To celebrate the brand’s 60th anniversary and its “re-birth”, Grand Seiko has released four new timepieces. All four models released have Grand Seiko’s signature blue dial. However, each model has varying levels of craftsmanship that Grand Seiko is known for today.

One of the four models is the Hi-Beat 36000 limited edition which pays homage to the 1967 44GS model. Grand Seiko’s 44GS model has been an iconic model and subsequently has been used as a reference for future models. Grand Seiko’s new Hi-Beat 36000 limited edition comes in a 40mm case and has a stunning midnight blue dial which makes the silver hour markers and hands stand out. The brand has also used different colours throughout the watch. Gold lettering has been used for the GS logo at the 12 o’clock position along with red lettering for “automatic Hi-beat 36000” and the second’s hand being colored in vivid red. There is a reason however why these exact colours have been chosen, which Grand Seiko says “symbolise sunrise and all the new energy that a new dawn brings”.

The movement inside the Hi-Beat 36000 limited edition is the high beat Calibre 9S85. This high beat calibre 9S85 is an automatic with manual winding capacity and produces roughly 55 hours of power reserve. The calibre 9S85 has a water resistance of 100m (10bar) and produces an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds a day (when static).  This limited-edition model comes with an open case-back which features an engraving of lion emblem and the words ” 60th Anniversary 1960 – 2020 “.

As Grand Seiko’s celebrates its 60th anniversary and the re-birth of the brand, the release of the Hi-Beat 36000 limited edition model is testament to the brand’s traditional ways while paving the way for the future. With colours that make the watch stand out nicely and high-frequency calibre movement, the Hi-Beat 36000 limited edition is sure to be a favorite among Grand Seiko fans and alike. The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 model is however limited to 1500 pieces.

Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition Specification :

Model Reference:  SBGH281
Case Diameter: 40mm , 13.3mm Case thickness
Dial: Blue
Case:  Stainless steel case
Movement:  Caliber 9S85,
Power Reserve: Up to 55 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and date 
Water Resistance: 10 ATM

Australian pricing : $9,000.00 Aud

Availability : From April 2020

Grand Seiko Boutique :

• Sydney – Grand Seiko Boutique, Shop 2026C, Westfield Sydney –  (02) 9805 4775