H. Moser & Cie – Watch Advice

7 High-End Purple Dial Timepieces

Sameera Gamage — Fri, 28 Jul 2023 11:02:24 +0000

Earlier this month we wrote a piece on how coloured dials are becoming more popular, but the beauty of the purple dial is often overlooked. This previous article covered 5 purple dial watches under $5,000 (which you can read here). In this article, we aim to showcase the more expensive timepieces, with what the high-end luxury watch brands have to offer when it comes to purple dial timepieces.

Regardless of the price bracket, purple dial timepieces are certainly not easy to come by. Many brands either opt to stay away from colour or only reserve it for special limited edition runs. Either way you look at it, it seems like a real shame that brands aren’t bringing more of this stunning colour into their collections.

Who knows, maybe purple dials may come back as a trend in the near future, much like the Tiffany blue or “iced blue” dial trends, albeit these two already fall into the category of the more popular coloured dials. Maybe what we need is a high-profile watchmaker to release a purple dial timepiece in a non-limited run to set things off. Until then, however, we present to you seven high-end purple dial timepieces that are available on the market. Keep in mind, some of these models may be limited editions, so if your heart desires one it may be best to look into the second-hand market.

Zenith – DEFY 21 Ultraviolet

Ref. (97.9001.9004/80.R922)

Featuring Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero 21 1/100th of a second chronograph movement, this 44mm matte titanium watch features a beautiful violet skeleton dial. Even though it’s the main plate of the movement that’s purple, it can be still easily be seen by the viewer. To match the dial is a violet and black rubber strap.

This is easily one of our favourite purple dial timepieces. With the skeleton dial, and matte titanium case, it all blends together nicely. And more importantly, looks spectacular on the wrist with that 1/100th of a-second chronograph function!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $21,100.00

Rolex – Datejust 36mm

Ref. (126234)

This white gold and oystersteel Datejust 36mm comes with an aubergine diamond set dial. The dial features Roman numerals for the hour indices, with the Roman VI and IX set with 24 diamonds. The aubergine dial has a sunray finish, done through brushing techniques that creates grooves that move outwards from the centre of the dial.

The aubergine dial will play with light beautifully thanks to this sunray finish. With the rest of the timepiece finished in either white gold or oystersteel, it allows the aubergine dial to really stand out. The Datejust is finished with its iconic fluted bezel and jubilee bracelet.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $16,950.00

Hublot – Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Purple Sapphire

Ref. (645.JM.0120.RT)

This list wouldn’t be complete without a sapphire timepiece from Hublot. The Tourbillon Purple Sapphire Big Bang is one up there for being one of Hublot’s most daring timepieces, and it’s available in purple!

The timepiece’s polished purple sapphire crystal stands out as one of the best-looking purple timepieces in this list, complimented nicely by its transparent purple structured lined rubber strap. The Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Purple Sapphire is limited to a run of 50 models.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $309,000.00

Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding Chronograph

Ref. (26331BC.GG.1224BC.01)

A purple dial timepiece in Audemars Piguet’s lineup is no common sight, however, the model they currently have is a stunner to say the least. Featuring a plum purple sunray finish dial with Audemars Piguet’s iconic “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, the purple stands out beautifully especially with the white gold hour indices and counters.

If this wasn’t enough, the whole timepiece (case & bracelet) is done in 18k white gold with a “hammered” finish, to give the watch a frosted look. Overall just an amazing-looking timepiece. The model is limited to a run of 200 watches.

Did your heart beat faster too just looking at it?

Australian Recommended Retail Price: By Appointment Only

H. Moser & Cie – Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept

Ref. (1343-0212)

If you’re after a purple dial timepiece, just to showcase the purple dial and nothing else, who does it better than H. Moser & Cie? The brand’s Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept is one of their purest collections, showcasing nothing but just the beauty of the dial and the hour, minute and second hands.

And what a beautiful dial it is. This limited edition (20 models) features a Purple Haze fumé dial that one can get lost in quite easily. Pictures don’t do this dial justice. The watch comes in a 40.8mm solid 18-carat white gold case with the brand’s hand-wound HMC 343 calibre movement, that gives out a staggering power reserve of 7 days!

International Recommended Retail Price: CHF 24,000

MB&F – LM101

Ref. (LM101 WG Purple)

In 2021, MB&F released three new editions for their iconic LM101 timepiece. One of these models was the striking purple dial matched with 18k white gold case. The watch itself is a feat of watchmaking engineering, but accompanied by this purple dial it becomes something else entirely.

While, yes, the blue dial LM101 is one beautiful watch, especially that hue of blue, but the purple is just as if not more mesmerising. Like the H.Moser&Cie’s fume dial, you can catch yourself (and quite possibly everyone around you) staring at the beauty that lays on the surface of this watch. The definition of mechanical “Art for your Wrist”.

International Recommended Retail Price: 73‘000 CHF

Czapek – Faubourg De Cracovie Purple Panda

Even though this timepiece is sold out (can be pre-ordered for the next possible run), we thought it should still get a mention due thanks to its artistic purple dial. The Czapek Faubourg De Cracovie comes with a handcrafted Guilloché “Résonance” bombé dial in purple and white, which gives the dial a beautiful artistic look.

The Guilloché “Résonance” bombé pattern also revolves around the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock sub-dials, instead of it being a uniform pattern on the dial. The timepiece is offered in a 41.5mm stainless steel case with the brand’s caliber SXH3 movement sitting inside.

International Recommended Retail Price: 32‘000 CHF

If You Had $100k To Spend On Just One Watch, What Would It Be?

Matt Clymo — Sun, 14 May 2023 10:14:14 +0000

Imagine this: You’ve just come into a lot of money, maybe you won the lotto, or a long lost rich Uncle left his entire fortune to you, or maybe you’ve just sold your tech business to Google. Congrats! You’ve set aside $100,000 to buy your dream watch, but this is now the age old dilemma, what on earth do you get?

I think Taylor Swift said it well in her song Blank Space, when she sung “I’m a nightmare dressed like a daydream”, which is exactly what this scenario is for many of us. A daydream that could be a nightmare for us indecisive watch lovers! This question came up when talking to one of my colleagues a few weeks ago; what would you buy with $100k? The honest answer is, I have no idea, as the options and possibilities are endless!

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate – not quite a $100k, but a good start!

Is the $100k a watch at retail, or on the grey market? Does it have to be new, or second hand? And when splurging that type of cash on just ONE watch, do you go for a daily wearer, or one that you pull out at special occasions to show off? Now you can see the whole nightmare part of this daydream scenario. Again, thanks TayTay.

Watch Advice is about giving advice, so naturally, for anyone out there that’s blessed to have this first world problem, we have a five great choices for you. And for those just playing along at home and daydreaming about such a scenario, then dream about some of the below pieces gracing your wrist. Maybe one day one of them will!

H. Moser & Cie – understated choice!
Ulysee Nardin Freak X Adventurine – less understated!

Just note, all the prices are at retail, as we’re assuming that you can buy at retail new from a store, not the grey market or second hand, and with you’re new found wealth, why not – it is an imaginary scenario after all!

Breguet Classique Hora Mundi 5727

Maybe not a daily wearer, unless you sit in an office all day as a CEO that is. Nonetheless, Breguet are known for their beautiful watch making, and with $100k at your disposal, this is right on the mark! The 18k Gold Hora Mundi 5727 combines instant time-zone jump with synchronised date, 24-hour and city indications, perfect for those wanting to travel and do it in style!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $100,000

Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Piaget is massively underrated in my opinion, and if you’re wanting something different with serious horological chops, then the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a fantastic statement piece that says “I don’t follow the crowd”. The green dial is stunning, and Piaget pioneered the Ultra Thin movement over 50 years ago, which you can read here. It’s a 42mm case, only 8.65mm thick, and to cram all those complications into a movement that’s only 4mm thick is a work of art and science!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $89,000

AP Royal Oak Pink Gold Chronograph 38mm

No daydream scenario would be complete without at least entertaining an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. In this instance, the pink gold 38mm Chronograph will do the trick! And as these wear large, it will feel like you’ve a 40-41mm on the wrist, and the pink gold combined with the blue Grande Tapisserie dial is perfect and says you’ve made it! It’s a tad over the limit, but hey, only a couple of grand!

Australian Approximate Retail Price: $102,000

Marco Lang Zweigesicht Variation III In Platinum

Marco Lang may not be a name you’ve heard of, but the German watchmaker is doing some incredible work, like the Zweigesicht Variation III in Platinum. With only 18 watches available, you’ll be sure to stand out. This model has a white-fired skeletonized dial in solid silver, covered with blue, translucent enamel “grand feu” and Cathedral hands in blued steel. If that wasn’t enough, the shapes and materials of the hands, hand engravings in the movement and on the case, even different cuts and polishes can be customised for you.

Price based on dial and customisation chosen, circa $100,000

Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire

Hublot gets a bad wrap, but to be honest, they do things with materials most other brands wouldn’t think of, and the R&D that goes into some of their pieces is quite amazing. And if you’re not afraid to show off a little, then the Big Bang Unico Sapphire 42 is the perfect statement piece, after all, you’ve got the cash, so why not flaunt it a little. With an all sapphire case, skeletonised dial and the HUB1280 Unico in house movement with flyback chronograph, you’re actually getting a decent watch under all that showiness.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $96,000

So there you have it – 5 watches that will let you blow $100,000 in one hit! And if you don’t like any of these suggestions, then feel free to drop us a comment in the section below and tell us what you’d buy with a lazy $100k?

A Salmon-Coloured Dial Makes Its Way Into H.Moser & Cie’s Streamliner Collection For The First Time

Sameera Gamage — Mon, 24 Apr 2023 14:00:00 +0000

Following H.Moser & Cie’s “Green Dragon” release last year, the brand has now released the Streamliner Centre Seconds with a brand new coloured fume dial. The Streamliner collection features quite a few variations of timepieces. Ranging from the simple three-hander and tourbillon models to perpetual timepieces to even wall clocks. This new timepiece is a special edition watch that will only be available for one year.

The design of the Streamliner Centre Seconds was inspired by (and named after) some of the first high-speed trains that emerged in the 1920s and 1930s. The 40mm cushion-shaped case has elegant rounded curves while seamlessly integrating itself into the bracelet. What this means is that it doesn’t have lugs like a standard watch would. The case also comes with different finishing techniques, from satin-finished forms on the sides to alternating brushed and polished surfaces on top.

The elegant curves of the case are matched beautifully on the integrated bracelet. The steel bracelet has an arch design that follows the shape of the wrist, which makes for a smoother and more comfortable fit. The finishing of the bracelet is as immaculate as the case itself, as it features a gentle wave combined with a vertical brushed finish with polished surfaces. While the bracelet appears to be single links integrated together from the front, the back of the bracelet shows that it’s actually three-piece links. Another nice design touch is that the links of the bracelet are shaped in the letter “M”, a nice reference back to the brand. This sophisticated and flexible bracelet was made to stand out from the norm.

While this case and bracelet design are not new, as it is featured in all of the timepieces in the Streamliner collection, the all-new colour on the fume dial certainly is. For the first time, H. Moser & Cie has added a smoked salmon dial as a colour option for their iconic fumé dials. Salmon-coloured dials have become a classic in the world of horology, and have grown ever more popular over the last few years.

When it comes to H.Moser and Cie, however, it was never going to be just a simple salmon-coloured dial. Termed “Smoked Salmon”, this dial colour goes through a broad spectrum of hues as the wrist moves and the dial plays with light. The colour variations range from chocolate to a golden hue. As this Streamliner Centre Seconds model is a special edition, H.Moser & Cie has given the dial a “griffe” finish. The griffe finish is a claw-like pattern or vertical brushed finish that we see on this dial. To round off this beautiful dial are the hour and minute hands, which are made from two sections that give them a three-dimensional view. The hands have an insert containing Globolight®, which is an innovative ceramic-based material that has Super-LumiNova ®.

CEO of H.Moser & Cie, Edouard Meylan, is excited with the addition of this new dial colour as he states “There is salmon and there is salmon. Our inspiration does not come from the traditional Atlantic salmon, or “Salmo salar” to give it its Latin name, but from its very rare cousin, the “Oncorhynchus kisutch”. Allowed to mature in total freedom and massaged each day by specialists using an oil infused with aromatic herbs picked from the slopes of the Himalayas, this species only eats crustaceans that have been pre-digested by pink flamingos. Each individual fish is smoked using a secret recipe made using Scottish whisky. This is what gives the flesh this exceptional colour, and is the inspiration behind our new dial.”

Underneath this beautiful dial is the brand’s in-house HMC 200 automatic calibre movement. The movement comes equipped with a regulating organ developed by Precision Engineering AG, which is the sister company of H.Moser & Cie. The HMC 200 movement gives out a very generous power reserve of 3 days. The watch comes with an open case back, which allows the wearer to see the finishing on the HMC 200 movement, such as the Moser double stripes and the engraved solid gold oscillating weight.

With salmon-coloured dials growing popular over the last few years, H.Moser & Cie has given their fresh take on this beautiful colour. The colour is being added to a timepiece that already has its own unique identity in the world of horology with its iconic case and bracelet design.

Reference: 6200-1207

Specification

Case: 40.0 mm
Case Material: Steel
Dial: Smoked Salmon griffé
Crystal: Slightly domed sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 120m (12 bar)
Movement: HMC 200 automatic calibre
Power reserve: Minimum 3 days
Strap: Integrated steel bracelet folding clasp with three steel blades, engraved with the Moser logo.

Availability: May 2023

International Recommended Retail Pricing: CHF 19 900

Are Blue Watch Dials Overused? A Look into W&W 2023 Releases To See How Brands Are Using This Classic Colour.

Sameera Gamage — Fri, 21 Apr 2023 06:23:00 +0000

Besides the standard black and silver/white dials, we would have to argue that blue dials are the next preferred choice on a timepiece. Sometimes blue dials can be more popular than their counterparts when featured in the same collection. Blue dial timepieces offer a lot of versatility. This dial colour compliments a lot of different shades and case material colours. Depending on how deep the blue is, it can go really well with rose-gold or gold cases and blue always goes well with platinum and stainless steel.

But is the blue dial overplayed? Is it over-used by watch brands? Blue dial timepieces have been around for decades. One of the first blue dials to appear in production was from IWC in 1967. In its early days, blue dials were reserved for limited edition timepieces for a lot of brands, signifying its specialty. This still is the case with a few brands today (think IWC, TAG Heuer, etc) even though blue dials are very popular in the modern age.

Some of The Major Components of Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

Even with its popularity, we feel that blue dials are essentially a timeless design. No matter how many blue-dial watches you see, every brand has its own take on it, making each watch stand out in its own way. There are also quite a few different shades of blue. From H.Moser & Cie’s incredible Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel (which you can read about here) to TAG Heuer’s TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf Special Edition (read here), there is a variety when it comes to blue dials to suit all kinds of personalities and tastes.

With this in mind, we want to showcase some of the best blue dials to come out of Watches and Wonders 2023. Not just any shade of blue dial however as there would be far too many options. In particular, we want to showcase the navy blue dials.

Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar

This timepiece is a brand first for Panerai. For the first time, they have introduced an annual calendar into their Radomir collection. They have introduced two variants, with this variant being made from Goldtech^TM with a blue sun-brushed dial.

The Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar comes with a beautiful sun-brushed sandwich dial which is overlaid on top of the disc of Super-Luminova, with the deep blue accompanying the Goldtech™. This blue dial is perfectly complemented by the white and rose gold details (hands and hour indices).

If you want to read more on Panarai’s latest blue dial beauty, click here.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Bi-colour

Oris is accustomed to using beautifully blue dials on their timepieces, especially on their Aquis range. For this year’s Watches and Wonders, Oris released a fun summer timepiece, in either a beautiful forest green or deep blue.

What makes this Aquis model stand out from the rest of the blue dials in Oris’s range? It would have to be the combination of the 18-carat gold finish with the blue. The bezel has an outer edge made from 18-carat. The details inside the dial, such as the hour hands and hour indices all have gold finishes, which along with the white SuperLumi-Nova contrasts beautifully against the blue backdrop.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic in Rose Gold

At only 5.3mm thick, the Piaget Altiplano is not only a stunning timepiece but a masterful creation as well. This new Altiplano Ultimate Automatic in Rose Gold is very much similar to last year’s release, now just without the diamonds and bling.

And the dial? A stunning piece of art. The dial is carefully created to be as aesthetically pleasing as possible. A half-skeleton dial is combined with an off-center circular sun-burst main dial in a dark navy blue. This is finished off with rose gold details that complement the dial and case nicely.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

This list wouldn’t be complete without including a blue-dialed timepiece from TAG Heuer. They have released quite a few great models already this year, but a blue-dialed timepiece that stood out the most for us was the latest TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2023.

The watch speaks for itself. A racing-inspired chronograph, the dial is filled with colourful reminders of TAG Heuer’s racing heritage and racing timepieces. This model has a signature blue sunray-brushed finish, which plays with light beautifully.

Baume Mercier Riviera Azur 300m

A blue dial with a twist. The Baume Mercier Riviera Azur 300m is no ordinary blue-dialed timepiece. Released as part of Baume Mercier’s 50th-anniversary celebrations for the Riviera collection, this new Azur 300m is a fashion sport-chich timepiece that can take a beating.

This diving watch comes with a smoked blue (or grey sapphire variant) that has a transparent wave decoration. A semi-skeletonised timepiece in which you can actually see the date ring underneath but not much else of the Baumatic manufacture movement. The transparent waves were inspired by the Mediterranean seafloor and the images of the ocean during summer. Perfectly suited for a blue-dialed timepiece.

If you want to learn more about the Azur 300m or see more in-depth pictures click here!

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

One of our favourite blue dials released during this year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 has to be the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date. The shade of blue on this lacquered dial is truly breathtaking and deserves to be seen up close in person.

As the name suggests, this model comes with a moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, which is beautifully decorated, and then a retrograde date indicator along the top half of the dial. The 18k white gold hour markers, and hands, along with the steel case and bracelet only aid this watch further in making it a visual masterpiece.

See more beautiful pictures and information on this timepiece here!

Grand Seiko TENTAGRAPH

This year saw Seiko unveil a completely new watch for the brand. A mechanical chronograph timepiece. The Grand Seiko TENTAGRAPH is introduced into the world of chronograph timepieces with the precision of high-beat movement and long power reserve.

The Blue “Mt. Iwate” pattern takes inspiration from the mountain that’s visible from Studio Shizukuishi. The rich deep blue of the dial is a reference to the night sky above the mountain. The timepiece’s readability is enhanced due to the direction contrast of the large hour indices and hands, which have also been coated in SuperLumi-Nova.

If you want to learn more about Grand Seiko’s first ever mechanical chronograph, click here!

With this display of different blue dials, the question of are blue dialed timepieces overused can be answered and safely put to rest. We think that while yes, blue dials are common, it is certainly not something that should be taken for granted. From even just the above chosen timepieces, it’s evident that no two brands showcase the same dial features. As we mentioned earlier, each brand has their own taken on the colour and finish of blue on the dial. And even if two brand’s shared this same dial colour and finish, what set’s them apart is the functions, design of hour indices and hands and also the material’s chosen for these features on the dial, which ultimately give the final touch to the blue dial.

H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel

Sameera Gamage — Mon, 27 Feb 2023 13:55:42 +0000

H. Moser & Cie. is renowned for their exceptional timepieces that showcase both elegance and timeless designs. The brand has become iconic for creating vibrant dials with minimalistic features on the dial, letting the colour or design of the dial be the center-piece of the watch.

Now, H. Moser & Cie. is back with another masterpiece, this time in the form of an updated version of their perpetual calendar. Thanks to its minimalistic design, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar timepieces are seen as easily the most legible whilst also being easy to set in the watch market today. For this latest release, H. Moser & Cie. is going to unreached destinations by updating the perpetual calendar timepiece with a tantalum case, a material that is rare and prestigious, now being used for the first time in the brand’s history. It doesn’t stop there, however, as H. Moser & Cie. has also given the dial a visual enhancement thanks to the ancestral technique of enamelling.

Tantalum was first discovered back in 1802 by a Swede named Anders Gustav Ekeberg. Tantalum is a rare and highly dense material this is known for its exceptional durability and resistance to corrosion. Tantalum has a very dark grey colour appearance which is complemented by bluish reflections. Tantalum can be found commonly used in the production of electronic components and surgical implants, however, it can be a very difficult material to work with, as it has a melting point around 3000 ^oC. Advanced metallurgical expertise is required to work with Tantalum, with the end product being a highly stable metal the brings together both beauty and durability.

Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie. explains the reasoning behind using this metal on the new perpetual calendar as he states “when I was 18, my parents gave me my first Haute Horology watch, which was made from tantalum. Ever since then, I have dreamed of introducing this metal at H. Moser & Cie., in spite of the challenges it poses. It took more than two years of testing before we were able to polish the surfaces of our case, a feat that few have been able to match, with most preferring to sandblast or satin-finish tantalum“.

The 42mm tantalum case encompasses a stunning minimalistic dial. The perpetual calendar functions of the timepiece can be seen firstly from the centre where a small hand indicates the months, a date window at 3 o’clock, a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock and lastly the constant seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The brand logo on this dial and hour indices except 12 and 6 o’clock has been removed, so that only the absolute bare minimum is shown on the dial. This was done by H. Moser & Cie. so that the full beauty of the “Grand Feu” enamel dial can be shown.

H. Moser & Cie. statest that the “Grand Feu” enamel dial is created by “starting with a pattern engrained onto a gold base, as if hammered, four different colour pigments are washed, finely crushed, then applied to create an ombré effect. Careful work and limitless patience are required for the master enameller to painstakingly apply the pigments, adding them one by one so that the colours oxidise and meld together when heated in the furnace, without any pixellation. A translucent “Grand Feu” enamel dial must be fired twelve times in total to create the signature H. Moser & Cie. fumé effect“.

Each dial that comes out of the manufacturing process is unique. The finish of the dial is certainly a thing of beauty, as the complex texture is combined with a vibrant Abyss blue hue. The gradient effect of the dial only adds to the depth of beauty of this watch. As the watch gets lighter in colour towards the centre, to it being white in the middle, it leads to the leaf-shaped hands that indicate the time.

The impressive display on the front is complemented equally impressively with the movement inside. H. Moser & Cie.’s hand-wound HMC 800 manufacture calibre is the engine behind this timepiece and it certainly is a feat of engineering. A manual wound movement is thought to be impressive if it has 3-days of power-reserve. With the HMC 800 calibre producing 7-days is a staggering feat. The movement features a double barrel as well, which allows it to have a more stable and consistent rate of timekeeping.

This simplistic yet exquisite timepiece is finished off with a hand stitched grey kudu leather strap with steel folding clasp that has the Moser logo engraved into it. The grey colour of the strap comes close to matching the tantalum tone of the case, and by almost blending together, allows the full beauty of the dial to take centre stage.

Reference: 1800-2000

Specification:

Case: 38mm
Case Material: Tantalum & Steel
Dial: Abyss Blue fumé “Grand Feu” enamel
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 3 Bar (30m)
Movement: HMC 800 Perpertual calendar
Power reserve: 7-days
Bracelet/Strap: Hand-stitched grey kudu leather with steel folding clasp, engraved with the Moser logo

International Recommended Retail Price: CHF 75 000

Availability: Now, through E-Commerce

H.Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar

Chamath Gamage — Mon, 21 Feb 2022 14:37:39 +0000

As many already know, H.Moser & Cie is all about keeping things simple. Their watches all speak of minimalistic design while still keeping the essence of what makes a modern-day timepiece. This “complexity made simple” philosophy that the brand thrives on is what makes their perpetual calendar timepiece so interesting. Normally Perpetual calendars are a bit more on the busy side when it comes to the dial, but not the case with H.Moser & Cie’s perpetual calendar.

H.Moser & Cie. released their first perpetual calendar in 2005, and upon its release, the public saw it as one of the easiest perpetual calendar timepieces to read. The timepiece could be adjusted both backward and forward and at any given point throughout the day. In 2015, H.Moser & Cie. released the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue, which not only revived the perpetual calendar model for the brand but also gave it a fresh new take with a new aesthetic design mixing traditional and modern together.

Now, H.Moser & Cie. is revamping the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar. Keeping the Funky Blue dial, the brand is now releasing the timepiece in a 42mm case size, with a new edition of the brand logo being done in transparent lacquer.

Alongside the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, H.Moser & Cie. is also releasing another timepiece, this time as a limited edition. This special commemorative timepiece showcases the brand’s technical characteristics of the latest Endeavour Perpetual Calendar model. The limited-edition variant is there to showcase how the perpetual calendar works, with the technical specifications shown directly on the dial. This means that this limited edition model is no longer minimalistic in design, however is just as mesmerizing to look at.

Design:

This latest Endeavour Perpetual Calendar comes in an 18k white gold 42mm case with a screw-in crown adorned with an “M”. As mentioned previously, the fumé dial is iconic to H.Moser & Cie., is retained in the sunburst Funky Blue colour on this timepiece. Keeping the watches as minimalistic as possible is a great way to show the beauty of the fumé dial, and with a perpetual calendar timepiece, this becomes even more impressive.

Where normal perpetual calendars can have quite complex dials, the dial of this Endeavour Perpetual Calendar model doesn’t show any complicated sub-dials or date discs, making the time so simple to read. The hour indices on the dial not only display the time but also the calendar months, which is shown through a small hand in the centre. A large date window at 3 o’clock with the “Flash Calendar” function features the instant date change at midnight. The minimalistic sub-dial at 9 o’clock shows the power reserve indicator. The sub-dial at 6 o’clock shows the constant seconds.

Nearly all perpetual calendar timepieces in the market today need careful handling, with precise instructions that need to be followed for date changes, etc. This makes customers wary of constantly wearing these watches and also tackling the time-consuming process of date and time changes after the watch hasn’t been worn for a while. H.Moser & Cie has innovated and now revolutionised the process in which all this is done, making this complicated timepiece operatable by even a child. The time and date change on the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar is easy to set thanks to the screw-down crown, allowing it to be changed at any time of the day.

The special limited edition series shows the intuitive functions of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar illustrated nicely on the dial. The dial of the limited edition models display scrawled notes and drawings which encapsulate the features of the movement.

Movement:

The movement used in the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar and limited edition model is the hand-wound HMC 800 Manufacture calibre. The HMC 800 Manufacture calibre operates at a frequency of 18,000 VpH (3hz) and has a staggering power reserve of approximately 7 days (168 hours). Both variants feature a see-through case back in which the movement can be seen. The movement and components have all been hand-finished and decorated with the pallet fork and escapement wheel made from gold for aesthetic and luxury finishing.

The watch comes strapped in a hand-structured beige kudu leather band with a solid 18-carat white gold folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo.

H.Moser & Cie. prove time and time again that less can be more. With the latest rendition of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, the brand has pulled off the minimalistic approach to perpetual calendars. While most other perpetual calendars on the market have complicated dials, H.Moser & Cie.’s version is so simple it can be operated and read by anyone.

International pricing: Starting from 54,000 CHF for the Perpetual Calendar and 59,000 CHF for the Perpetual calendar Tutorial (limited to 20 pieces)

Availability: Available now. For more information visit moser.com

2021 H.Moser & Cie Dual Time Heritage

Chamath Gamage — Mon, 11 Oct 2021 13:53:15 +0000

H. MOSER & CIE’s passion and thirst for discovery have led them to unveil their first dual-time watch; the Heritage Dual Time. A watch made for travellers and those with an adventurous spirit, the Heritage Dual Time is however no ordinary travellers companion.

Design:

It’s safe to say, H. MOSER & CIE’s design for this latest piece takes on the shape of being refined while having just the right curves to give that classy and luxurious appeal. The Heritage Dual time features a 42mm steel case in which the design has been inspired by Moser pocket watches and early 20th-century models. The case features slim tapered lugs and a large notched crown which will provide easy adjustability. The steel case certainly has its shine, and when under the light will make it stand out quite nicely.

What makes this piece stand out from other dual time models is H. MOSER & CIE’s specialty; fumé dials. The Heritage Dual Time has been given a brand-new Burgundy fumé dial, which also has the brand’s logo in transparent lacquer. To have the maximum impact with contrast, H. MOSER & CIE have done the railway style minute track in white, while the sword-shaped hands have been coated in white Super-LumiNova. The hour markers have a three-dimensional appearance thanks to Globolight®, which is a ceramic-based material that can assume any given shape.

The hour indices have also been coated in white Super-LumiNova. Overall against the Burgundy fumé dial, the appearance of the markers and hands is vivid and clearly stands out from some distance. Not only that, but that fumé dial is just stunning to look at!

Movement:

The movement used inside is H. MOSER & CIE’s brand new HMC 809 self-winding calibre. The Dual Time function that’s equipped on the HMC 809 calibre movement has been completed designed and developed on the brand’s self-winding Manufacture calibre movement. The grey hand that’s shown in the dial shows the second time zone.

H. MOSER & CIE is known for their minimalistic designs in their timepieces, and the Heritage Dual Time is no different. The second timezone grey hand has been done in this colour so it’s more subtle compared to the main hands. The dual time hand can also be hidden behind the main hour’s hand when not in use! In another case of minimalism, the date has replaced the 6 o’clock hour marker, which blends it in overall with the rest of the hour indices.

The HMC 809 calibre has a hefty three-day power reserve. A feature of this movement is that the oscillating weight transfers the energy to the barrel via a bi-directional pawl winding system which reduces the time that’s required to fully wind the watch.

The Heritage Dual time comes available in a grey kudu leather strap, which matches nicely with the case and takes no attention away from the dial. With this latest creation, H. MOSER & CIE said it best with “the Heritage Dual Time model represents H. Moser & Cie. to perfection: a modern manufacture with a rich history dating back almost 200 years”.

The H.Moser & Cie Swiss Alp Watch – The final upgrade (2021)

Chamath Gamage — Wed, 03 Feb 2021 08:55:45 +0000

What started in 2016 as a response from H.Moser & Cie. to the emergence of connected watches, the Swiss Alp Watch will be making its final debut this year. The end of an inspiring concept, the Swiss Alp Watch Final Upgrade will be the climax to the Swiss Alp watch adventure and will come in the form of a singular creation.