Being in the watch world is a funny thing. We covert this little machine that runs on our wrist and tells the time, quite often spending up to tens of thousands of dollars on any given piece. People can be precious about their opinions and at times, the watch world can be snobby with people buying pieces purely to show off or as a status symbol. So it’s nice that every two years, some of the greatest brands in the world get together to show off their unique pieces at Christie’s auctions for the purpose of charity.

Whilst it’s not lost on us that many brands participate to show off their haute horology and technical skills to pave the way for future commercial pieces, the fact still remains that the proceeds of each lot go to a worthy cause: Supporting Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy – a disease affecting 1 in 3500 boys that progressively weakens all their muscles, including the heart, the loss of the ability to walk and global autonomy as they get older. This year, Only Watch is back for 2023 and with 62 Lots, we should see it raise a significant amount for the charity. 2021’s Only Watch raised CHF 30,000,000 (Just over AUD $50,000,000), so here’s hoping the watch world and collectors can eclipse that figure this year.

The Watch Advice team has looked over each and every Lot offered at this year’s Only Watch to come up with the ten most unique pieces from the brands. Our criteria were simple; pick the pieces that we felt were either totally unique or something out of the box for that brand. Some brands do small things like change a dial colour or use a different case material for a standard production watch, so we have overlooked these and gone for those pieces where the brands have pushed themselves. We’ve started at the start, by Lot Number, so without further ado, here are our first 5 top 10 watches…

LOT 7 – BALTIC EXPERIMENTS – PREMIER QUANTIÈME PERPÉTUEL

Why We Love It

Baltic is known for its value proposition and makes good-looking, reliable, vintage-inspired watches with most of its pieces coming in under about AUD $2,000. So when we saw that Baltic has done a Perpetual Calendar and in purple no less, it stood out from the crowd!

At 37mm and only 9.8mm thick (add an extra 1mm or so for the domed crystal) it’s a good sized watch and under Baltic’s new fine watchmaking studio, Baltic Experiments, has an in house perpetual module on the Vaucher VMF 5401 Micro-rotor extra-slim movement that took 2 years to research and develop. Complete with 50hrs power reserve, moon phase accurate to 122 years and 30m water resistance, it’s a watch that we think is worthy of Only Watch and showcases Baltic doing some very cool things with their brand.

Full details: Only Watch – Baltic

LOT 9 – BELL & ROSS BR03 CYBER RAINBOW

Why We Love It

Bell & Ross are not known for their out there watches. Being a brand whose heritage is rooted in aviation, designing watches for purpose and legibility, their Only Watch entry this year took us by surprise. They have completely reinvented their BR03 series and given their Cyber Rainbow a fully skeletonised 3D dial and oscillating weight.

Bell & Ross have meticulously applied varnished pieces to the DLC titanium case, and to give the piece continuity, soft colour material to the rubber strap as well. This look is also on the rotor and they’ve then filled the pockets of the skeletonised dial with the same coloured varnish. The overall look is something you might see coming from Hublot, so it’s definitely worthy of Only Watch 2023.

Full Details: Only Watch – Bell & Ross

LOT 15 – BULGARI OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON MARBLE

Why We Love It

Bulgari is known for doing some great watches and pushing the boundaries, especially with the Octo Finissimo range creating some of the world’s thinnest watches. But this one is made of Marble… A marble watch less than 7mm thick and with a Tourbillon just to top it off! The craftsmanship that has gone into this is incredible, and when you think the marble layer used is between 0.4mm and 0.6mm thin, you can start to see why we chose this.

They’ve layered Verde di Alpi green marble from the Alps between Italy and Switzerland on top of the DLC treated Titanium case and bracelet and offset this with stunning gold hands and indices. Outside of the crazy green aesthetic Bulgari has given this piece their BVL 268: The World’s thinnest manual movement with flying tourbillon and special ball bearing system. All in all, 800 hours of work, or just over 14 weeks working 8 hours a day/7 days a week went into this piece.

Full Details: Only Watch – Bulgari

LOT 19 – CZAPEK PLACE VENDÔME COMPLICITÉ – COURAGE EVERY SECOND

Why We Love It

The Czapek Place Vendome Complicite – Courage Every Second stood out to us due to the combination of the Only Watch colours blended with the dial complexity of the dual escapements and differential on display on the open worked dial. Whilst not technically majorly different from their current Place Vendome collection, what sets this part is the combination of elements from the Quai de Burges collection with the Place Vendome Collection.

Czapek deliver great works of art normally and this piece is no exception. The star is the dial with the Champlevé enamel ring created in collaboration with Donzé Cadrans and the circular satin-polished brass réhaut with Czapek’s Only Watch “Courage every second” signature framing the Czapek Calibre 8 on show, including the two sapphire glass bridges. Something tells us that it will fetch more the the CHF 80,000 – CHF 100,000 estimate.

Full Details: Only Watch – Czapek

LOT 23 – FREDERIQUE CONSTANT x CHRISTIAAN VAN DER KLAAUW TOURBILLON PLANETARIUM

Why We Love It

Frederique Constant isn’t a name you usually associate with high horology. Sitting in the lower-end luxury segment, Frederique Constant is, in its own words, “high-quality watches at a sensible price”. This is anything but! Frederique Constant has teamed up with Christiaan Van Der Klaauw to produce the world’s most miniature planetarium and added an Adventurine dial with a Tourbillon at 6 o’clock.

All this is housed in a respectable 42mm Platinum case, and the hands and indices are all diamond cut and hand finished to add to the quality. This piece is a combination of firsts for both brands and whilst typically reasonably priced, the estimated CHF 110,000 is anything but. However, for a 14mm thick Tourbillon with planetarium and day/date counter, maybe it is?!

Full Details: Only Watch – Frederique Constant X Christiaan Van Der Klaauw

LOT 29 – HERMES ARCEAU LE TEMPS VOYAGEUR

Why We Love It

Hermes has its roots in leather goods and fashion, but in recent years has started to really make strides in its watchmaking division. Whilst you wouldn’t say Hermes was cutting edge, some designs, like the H08, are more modern than others, but their Arceau collection is on the more subdued side. This is why when we saw their Only Watch entry, the Arceau le Temps Voyager, we were slightly taken back.

There’s a lot to like about this watch. Its use of the Only Watch colours is playful but makes sense to accentuate the cities on the world time. The asymmetry of the dial is reminiscent of A. Lange & Sohne or Glashutte Original, and the small offset time dial plays tribute to the Arceau collection with the italicised numerals. The ‘travelling time’ mechanism was also developed exclusively for Hermes, and the 41mm DLC coated case with the asymmetrical Platinum lugs just add to its uniqueness.

Full Details: Only Watch – Hermes

So there you have it. The first half of our top 10 picks for this year’s Only Watch. Let us know if you agree or disagree and what your picks were in the comments section below. And stay tuned for Part 2 of our Top 10 Picks For Only Watch next week.

The Lunar Calendar for example is specifically a calendar that is based on the cycles of the moon. It’s estimated that the average time between two full moons is 29.5 days, therefore the months on the Lunar Calendar were made to be either 29 or 30 days.

A moon phase complication is one of the world’s oldest watch complications. The complication dates back to Ancient Greek times, where the earliest moon phase complication was found on the Antikythera Mechanism. This mechanism was developed by the Ancient Greeks to predict astronomical events, and it would show moon phases and eclipses.

In the modern world, when a moon phase complication is mentioned, one immediately thinks of wristwatches. The first moon phase complication on a wristwatch was developed by Patek Phillipe in 1925, which was shortly followed by Rolex with their own interpretation of the moon phase with Reference 8171 in 1949. In the 21st century, the moon phase complication can be found on timepieces ranging from entry-level to high-level luxury pieces. Most brands follow the same design of displaying the moon phase on the dial, however, a few brands have dared to step outside the norm and create incredible pieces that show this complication in a new light.

How does the moon phase complication work?

The most common way a moon phase is designed on a timepiece is by having two moons on a disc that rotates, shown through a half-circle aperture on the dial. This aperture would only show the correct phase of the moon depending on its current position on the Lunar cycle.

As mentioned earlier, the Lunar Cycle is approximately 29.5 days per month. To be accurate for a watch-making complication, however, the Lunar Cycle is taken as 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 2.8 seconds. The hour wheel on the gear train plays a vital role in the operation of the moon phase. As the hour wheel makes one full rotation around the dial every 12 hours (on standard 12-hour timepieces), the hour wheel drives the moon wheel at a ratio of 1:2 (24hrs/2).

The standard moon disc will come with a one-tooth gear that is mounted co-axially. Hidden underneath the dial, the moon disc has 59 peripheral teeth, which results in the advancement of the moon disc once per day. The reason there are 59 teeth is because of the Lunar cycle. 59 divided by 2 is 29.5, which means one moon phase will end after 29.5 days. Having two moons on the moon disc means that when the cycle for the first one is finished, the disc automatically will display the Lunar cycle for the second disc, thereby having a continuous rotational moon phase.

A Moon phase can be displayed in many different ways on the dial. The most common is the half-circle aperture on the dial where the moon phase, the starry night sky along with clouds are shown. Below is a list of some of the different variations of moon phases shown on watch dials.

Blancpain Villeret Quatieme Complet Blue Dial

(Image ref: Watche-news.com/villeret-quatieme-complet-blue-dial)

This stunning display of horology combines red gold with a deep sky blue to make one aesthetic-looking watch. Everything about this timepiece was made to be as beautiful as possible, to complement the host of complications sitting underneath.

The Villeret Quatieme Complet Blue Dial comes with a standard moon phase aperture at 6 o’clock, where a graphic display of the moon and two stars are shown. The half aperture is designed to show the clouds covering the night sky and moon. Along the top half of the aperture, Blancpain has also shown the Lunar cycle of 29.5 days.

Breguet Classique Quantieme Perpetual 7327

Another beautiful display of functions on a dial is the updated Breguet Classique Quantieme Perpetual 7327. The successor to reference 5327 from Breguet, this dial is more refined, less cluttered, and also has an updated moon phase indicator.

The previous moon phase design for this Classique Quantieme Perpetual looked very similar to the Blancpain moon phase indicator above. For this latest reference, Breguet has chosen to go with an accurate depiction of the moon and starry night sky, combined with the aperture’s cloud design. Once again the Lunar Calendar cycle days can be found on the top of the aperture.

If you want to read more about the Breguet Classique Quantieme Perpetual 7327 and see more close-up pictures of that beautiful moon phase, click here!

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Moonphase Titanium Hands

This monochromatic timepiece is uplifted by the colourful moon phase display at 6 o’clock. The timepiece is full skeleton, where everything is stripped down to a bare minimum to show the movement and workings underneath.

The moon phase indicator follows suit. Although not fully skeletonised, the timepiece comes with a transparent aperture. This shows how the previously mentioned moon phase disc is operated, with two moons being displayed on the singular disc so that after one Lunar cycle ends the other begins in a continuous motion.

Want to see more of this skeletal masterpiece and a closer look at how the moon phase disc looks? Click here!

Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow

The C1 Moonglow by Christopher Ward gives a unique take on the moon phase indicator. The brand’s in-house moon phase movement tracks the moon’s orbit accurately for 128 years! There are two-three dimensional moons on the dial, coated with a generous amount of Grade X1 GL Super-LumiNova, which gives that incredible “moonglow” you see in the picture.

Rotating like a normal moon disc, now covering the whole dial, the phase of the moon can be read from an aperture at 12 o’clock, while the second moon remains “clouded” under smoked glass.

HERMÈS Arceau L’heure De La Lune

One of the most epic displays of a moon phase indicator we’ve seen is HERMÈS’s Arceau L’heure De La Lune. This is a dreamlike timepiece made for lovers of astronomy.

This very unique timepiece shows what Earth’s satellites see’s. It simultaneously displays the moon phases of both the northern and southern hemispheres. The phases of the moon are indicated by, you guessed it, the rotating sub-dials of the hour and date.

This awe-inspiring display of rocks, moon phases, and rotating subdials can be seen more in-depth in our article here!

Arnold & Son Luna Magna Gold

The Arnold & Son Luna Magna Gold is a stunning display of a moon phase indicator. The timepiece focuses solely on the moon phase indicator, with even the main dial being offset to show more of the moon phase and the surrounding starry night sky.

This is the first-ever 3D moon phase indicator shown on a watch at this scale. Made of marble and aventurine, the moon showcases its different phases with astronomical precision. On the case back of the timepiece, is Arnold & Son’s incredible aesthetic design of the movement. At the center of the case back, the brand has placed a rotating sphere that accurately represents the appearance of the quarters of the moon against a starry backdrop.

Each year, the watch world waits to see what wonders come out of the industry’s premier trade show. Some years we see brilliance, and others years not so much. I feel that this year was a good year for the watch world, and we saw some really great pieces launched, some cool novelties and some brands just did some nice and timely updates to their core models. And from all reports, it seems that most commentators felt the same. So without further ado, here are my top 12 picks.

Piaget’s Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

Whilst Piaget added two new Perpetual Calendar models to their Polo line, my pick was the Rose gold and green. It just looks great, and builds on their release from earlier in year. At 8.65mm, it’s thin, and a the movement is stunning and complex. which can be seen through there caseback.

The fact that Piaget has also given it the quick change SingleTouch system, to swap out the green alligator or rubber strap just adds to this allowing you change the look, depending on your mood. At AUD $116,000, it’s not cheap, but you get a lot of watch for this!

You can read all about it here.

Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

Panerai went back to their roots this year, and told us their Storia Leggendaria. With this, bringing us the new Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 days) in hand finished eSteel.

Whilst not the most techically impressive, although it is an 8-day manual wind, so this is pretty decent, these are cool looking, and do hark back to their original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Also, each model is hand finished to give it the distressed look, so essentially, all unique!

Check out our write up about it here

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

Jaeger-LeCoultre focused on their Reverso Tribute line this year, and some of their models was absolutely fantastic. One of which was their Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which gives you 2 great watches in one!

Whilst each model looked stunning, my pic was the Pink Gold variant. The way the details contrast on the chronograph face, along with the “floating” look of the dial and bottom register are second to none!

For more on this, click here.

Hermes H08 In Rose Gold & Titanium

The Hermes H08 in Rose Gold and Titanium was a surprise for me. I’m not normally a fan of Hermes watches, but this model, in this combination jut works, and looks both casual, and just a little bit formal – it’s a paradox!

Hermes have used a good mix of Rose gold, titanium and black ceramic, and paired with the black rubber strap and the multi-faceted dial, all works together and is something a little different to the norm.

You can check out our write up on it here

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN “Oceana”

I’m a sucker for a good pilot’s watch, and need to add one back into the collection. And the new IWC Pilot’s Chrono 41mm in Oceana Blue is a hot contender. Although, speaking to the IWC boutique, there’s not a lot of detail on when this will be in, so I guess I’ll have to wait.

IWC have done some great releases in coloured ceramic and this is just the next to come out, and with the denim strap, looks like the perfect casual summer watch. Blending this with IWC’s DNA in pilots watches and you’ve a great piece.

Fly over to our write up on it here

Tudor Black Bay 41 Burgundy Dial

Tudor are a little more “edgy” than their big sister, but sometimes, a nice update is all you need. The Tudor Black Bay 41 with the burgundy dial was just this. Nothing ground-breaking, but a slimmer case, refined details on the dial and a choice now of three different bracelet/strap options with their T-Fit micro adjust.

Tudor have also made the movement just that little bit better – now Master Chronometer certified to 0/+5s per day and keeping the 70 hour power reserve. What more could you ask for?

For more details, check it out here

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm XPS

Chopard’s new Alpine Eagle in Lucent Steel and a stunning Monte Rosa pink dial and small seconds was one of those watches where Chopard took an already good watch and made it better! The addition of the small seconds is a nice touch, and the dial is just a stunning colour.

In this model, you now the calibre L.U.C 96.40-L movement, meaning the watch has slimmed down to just 8mm thick and the movement is beautiful with an 18k micro rotor powering it.

You can find out more about this model here

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

The Odysseus Chronograph was one of the more truly unique releases at this years event, and it was a first for the brand, having never done an automatic chronograph before now.

One of the most interesting aspects of the Odysseus Chronograph is the dial configuration using the outer track and the central seconds and minutes hands to tell the elapsed time, rather than sub dials. Plus the re-set to zero function is pretty cool, and something not seen before.

You can read all about it here

Rolex Yacht-Master Titanium

Rolex aren’t normally known for their innovative releases, but this year, they’ve come out with a first for The Crown – a sports watch in Titanium in the form of the Yacht-Master in 42mm. This is a great move from Rolex, adding another variant to the Yacht-Master line, and giving people a watch that is less dressy than the standard 40mm models, and a completely different look to the precious metal models.

It’s a great stealthy looking sports watch, and due to the titanium, is light and durable and fit for the purpose it was designed for, as we saw when Sir Ben Ainslie wore the prototype a couple of years back – leaving the world waiting for its release!

Check out my thoughts on the Yacht-Master Ti here

Grand Seiko Tentagraph

Grand Seiko have never done a fully mechanical chronograph before, having limited this complication to their spring drive models. But this year, they released a fairly under the radar chronograph that is fully mechanical. However, look at the details and its more impressive than it would initially seem.

A Ten beats per seconds chronograph, accurate to -3/+5s per day, tested over 20 days, housed in an all titanium case and finished to the standards that you expect from Grand Seiko. Its all in the small details, and this is what makes this watch a sleeper!

To check out the full write up, click here

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X

This was probably the craziest watch release this year (I cold be wrong), but you’d expect nothing less from Roger Dubuis. The Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X is designed in the theme of the new limited edition 50th anniversary Lamborghini Countach LPI 800-4. Hence the name.

Lamborghini design cues are all over this watch, from the engine case between the 90° V-Shape Double Flying Tourbillon, to the way the case looks like the wheels and tyres. It’s a serious piece of kit, to go with a serious car. But not for us mere mortals at $1,210,000 and limited to 8 pieces, I won’t be lining up anytime soon!

Check out the full write up and pics here

Bell & Ross Diver White Bronze

This may not have been on many people’s top 12, but I’ve included it for this reason. Bell & Ross have created a driver with a difference, and whilst not vintage in style, it’s got vintage style cues that just work with the overall design aesthetic.

The bronze case, paired with the opaline dial and brown strap give it a unique look, and the fact that it is ISO-6425 complied means it’s a true divers watch. It may not be for everyone, but that in my eyes isn’t a bad thing, as it means you probably won’t see many in the wild, and that’s a talking point in my mind!

Check out our coverage of it here

Well that’s it for another year of Watches and Wonders. It was a great show this year, and there were some brilliant releases, and not so brilliant releases. Whilst I couldn’t cover all of the releases here (it wouldn’t be a top 12 if I could!), you can check out all of the brands and models covered at Watches and Wonder 2023 here.

Created in 2021, the Hermès H08 watch embodies a blend of rigorous discipline and high standards. Today, it sees a new model, the H08 in Rose Gold and Titanium join the fold. Hermes is known for it’s hand crafted goods, its rich history with polo and equine sports and the ability to give its artisans creative freedom and to adapt to changing lifestyles. It’s taken the philosophy over the past 180+ years and evolved it into the luxury Maison we know today.

This philosophy can be seen in their watches, being designed and made through their in house Hermes Horloger. The new H08 reveals a singular aesthetic featuring a circular dial with an original font, housed in a square case with softened edges. Reminiscent somewhat of Bell & Ross crossed with an Apple watch, the Hermes H08 in Rose Gold and Titanium is anything but!

Designed by Philippe Delhotal, Creative Director of Hermès Horloger, the Hermès H08 watch combines textures and deep hues and colourful touches, whilst making use of its simple and elegant geometrical lines. The brushed Rose Gold has a deep hue and has the ability to look both shiny and matte, which combined with the brushed ceramic bezel create the perfect contract and you have a watch that can be worn casually or dressed up.

The central minutes disc and the seconds hand are treated in black nickel, while the date appears in a cushion-shaped aperture between 4 and 5 o’clock. This legible and beautifully balanced display is driven by the Manufacture Hermès H1837 mechanical self-winding movement. A strap in black and anthracite fabric webbing or black rubber with a titanium DLC folding clasp underscores the elegance of this new model.

The Hermes H08 is all about opposites. The contrasts between the black ceramic, brushed black coated, the deep rose gold case and the black rubber strap all make this watch look elegant, sporty, modern and classic all at once. The Rose Gold hands and numerals coasted with Super Luminova top this look off.

Specification

• Case: 39 x 39 mm, cushion-shaped Case composed of a black DLC-treated titanium caseback topped by a rose gold case middle
• Dial: Black gold and blackened treatment. Applied Arabic numerals coated with Super-LumiNova. White transferred minutes track. Black nickel-treated circular satin-brushed minutes disc and hands with 4N or black nickel treatment
• Bezel: Satin-brushed sunburst ceramic bezel with mirror-polished chamfer
• Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
• Water Resistance: 100m (10BAR)
• Movement: Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement – Mechanical self-winding, crafted in Switzerland. 28,800 vibrations per hour / 4 Hz
• Power Reserve: 45 Hours
• Strap: Black rubber or black and anthracite fabric webbing

Availability: TBA – head to hermes.com for more information.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $25,100

Hermès’s Arceau Wow timepiece comes in two variants, which we will touch on later, but more importantly, has a double-sided dial! The workshops in Switzerland loved this idea provided that the dial could be thin and translucent like the silk scarf the design has taken inspiration from. The dial encompasses different shapes; squares in a circle and small squares in a large squares.

The central theme behind both timepiece creations is the image of the Hermès woman on the saddle of a super horse. The identity of this mysterious woman is left to interpretation. Is she a secret agent? Parasian heroine? Whatever she may be, it is clear that she’s here to impress viewers with her glorious display on the dial. Surrounding the Hermès woman is the rectangular and square comic-book-style panels, which show different images.

On each watch, the dial is made from mother-of-pearl, an elegant and feminine material that also happens to allow light to show through, which enables the artisian to create a more radiant motif. The front side of the dial shows the multicoloured interpretation of this artwork, while the case back shows a monochrome version of the same art. The multicoloured work is first done in black ink, which then becomes visible on both sides. The whole décor of the motif is then hand-painted, with the pastel colours being applied one-by-one. The layers of the pastel are done to absolute precision so that it is thick enough to give it depth while being thin enough to allow light to shine through. Hermès says that it takes about 20 layers to complete this vibrant design.

The second face is detailed in the same manner as the dial side. However, it now has a sharper colour and thicker volume whilst still having the design just as lively as on the dial. It takes not only incredibly steady hands but also diligence as it requires up to 35 hours to complete a single dial.

As mentioned earlier, two variants of the Hermès Arceau Wow are available. The difference between the two models is the colour palette. The first has a more summer/day-time tone with the more prominent colour being pink. The second watch has more of a night theme as the colours are darker, especially on the surrounding comic panels on the dial.

While the artwork is certainly the centre of attention on the Hermès Arceau Wow, the case also does the watch justice. The 38mm 18k white gold case has 82 diamonds set around the bezel, which not only adds to the feminine touch of these models but also turns this from a stunning comic-art timepiece into a luxurious piece.

Both variants come with Hermès Manufacture H1912 self-winding movement. This movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 VpH (4hz) and gives out a steady power reserve of 50 hours. Hermès has given colour-matching straps for each of the models. The pink-tone variant gets a Sakura pink calfskin strap, while the blue-toned timepiece gets a Brighton blue calfskin strap.

The Hermès Arceau Wow will certainly make you say “wow” when first seeing the dial. The artisans at Hermès, through painstaking effort, have given life to a very playful and colourful timepiece. Each of the two variants is limited to 24 models.

Specification:

• Case: 38mm
• Case Material: 18k White gold with 82 diamonds on the bezel
• Dial: Miniature painting on double-sided mother-of-pearl
• Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
• Water resistance: 3 Bar (30m)
• Movement: H1912 movement
• Power reserve: 50 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Either Sakura pink calfskin or Brighton blue calfskin strap.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $ 113,000

Availability: Limited and numbered edition of 24

The Slim d’Hermes Minuit au Faubourg brings together the world of pop art along with the city of Paris to create miniature horological artwork that is produced as two variations limited to 24 timepieces each. The design theme of the watch has been derived from the silk scarf designed by Dimitri Rybaltchenko back in 2014. 

The colourful dial is beautifully portrayed, leaving you with a sense of wanderlust. The dial on both variations of the Slim d’Hermes Minuit au Faubourg is portrayed with the Eiffel Tower standing out against a sky streaked with clouds and studded with Aventurine stars. This view is seen to be overlooking the stunning sloping zinc Parisian roofs that reflect the bluish gleam of the moon and the rosy glow of the setting sun. Iconic settings like the dome of the Invalides, the obelisk on Place de la Concorde, and the wings of the Moulin Rouge can all be seen within this miniature artwork. 

At the bottom of the dial, we see Super H ready to take flight, a superbly proud and majestic comic-strip Pegasus. His cape fluttered in the wind, revealing the orange-brown H, the iconic symbol of Hermès. At the top portion of the dial, we can see the Eiffel Tower beaming up the letter H into the sky in a batman-like superhero call out. This beam of light, along with the letter H, is made from Super-Luminova so that at night, all we can see on the dial is this symbol. 

Hermès’s Slim d’Hermes Minuit au Faubourg comes in a 39.5mm white gold case (both variants) with a water resistance of 3 bar (30m). The first version of the watch shows the Parisian scene during dusk, with the sun setting giving a reddish tone to the overall look of the painting. To match this colour, Hermès has given this version a geranium alligator leather strap. 

The second version portrays the painting during nighttime, with an overall dark blue tone to show the night sky. To match this, Hermès has given this model an abyss blue alligator leather strap as standard. 

Both models are offered with Hermès’s Manufacture ultra-thin H1950 movement. This self-winding mechanical movement operates at a frequency of 3hz (21, 600 VpH) and can give a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. 

Combining iconic elements of the brand and then hand-drawing them into micro-painting with the Parisian scene certainly makes this a playful yet elegant timepiece. 

Hermès has designed some quite incredible Arceau watches in the past, such as the famous Temps Suspendu model, which can suspend time on demand by the owner and then again produce the correct time when the owner decides. There is also the Arceau l’Heure de la Lune timepiece, which features two discs on the dial that shows time and date, that rotate to indicate the moon phases. Hermès then is no stranger to rotating discs that show time on the dial itself. A feature that is prominent on this new Arceau Le Temps Voyageur.

The timepiece features an imaginary map “Planisphère d’un monde équestre” which translates to the equestrian planet, on the dial itself. The map was created by artist Jérôme Colliard, and is an iconic artwork that is also shown on some Hermès silk scarfs. This imaginary planet shows landmasses that have been named after horsey pursuits such as Dressage, Soins, and Ethologie Equine for example.

Design:

Hermès presents the Arceau Le Temps Voyageur in two different case materials and sizes. The first model is the platinum case version which comes in 41mm size and features a bead-blasted black DLC-treated titanium bezel. The second version is the smaller 38mm model, which is made from stainless steel. Both variants feature the signature lugs which have been designed by Henri d’Origny. The top set of lugs (12 o’clock position) has more space between the lug and casing, whilst the bottom set of lugs is much closer. 

Two dial colours are also offered. The stainless steel version gets a beautiful blue/purple dial, while the platinum model comes in a black/grey toned dial. We have to say that the blue truly is stunning to look at, as it plays with light well making some parts of the dial appear darker than others. The dial on both variants has a city ring on the outer part, with the “equestrian planet” map shown centrally. The rotating local time disc is then placed above the map. The mobile subdial for the platinum model is sandblasted with black gold lacquer that has a gradient finish and contrasting white Arabic hour numerals. The stainless steel version has a blue lacquered gradient finish with the same white Arabic hour numerals. 

So how exactly is the time read? Firstly, the arched aperture at the 12 o’clock position indicates the home time, displayed in 24-hour format. Local time, or the time of the current city you are in, is shown on the rotating time disc. The case has a pusher on the left side, that when engaged, advances the rotating sub-dial along the 24 different cities shown along the outer edge of the dial. Once the city is found, the time on the rotating sub-dial is updated automatically to that city’s local time. No Manual adjustments are needed! The time in the aperture at 12 o’clock can also be synchronized by pulling the crown to the second position and adjusting accordingly.

The city is indicated by a red arrow along the city ring. It can be seen that on some of the city names, there is either an “S”, “V” or the letter “K”. What these letters mean is “summertime” for that respective country. For English-speaking countries “S” is used, if Spanish is the main language “V” for vereno, and for Athens it’s “K” for kalokairi in Greek. A video taken at Watches & Wonders by Watchadvice showing this process can be seen here.

Movement:

The movement used inside the Arceau Le Temps Voyageur is the in-house Hermès H1837. This automatic calibre movement operates at a frequency of 28, 800 VpH and can deliver a power reserve of approximately 40-hours. Both variants of the watch come with an open case-back where the beautifully decorated plates and rotor with Hermès logo can be seen. 

Hermès has given a matt graphite alligator strap for the platinum model, while the stainless steel wears a smooth sapphire blue alligator strap. An aesthetically pleasing and clever way of showing dual time, the Arceau Le Temps Voyageur is certainly another model that Hermès can proudly stand behind. 

The Arceau Cheval Cosmique are two limited-edition models that combine graphic waves with the silhouette of a horse from Emile Hermès’ private collection. The Arceau Cheval Cosmique takes the creativity behind the Arceau watch that was designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978, to explore new contemporary styles with Hermès expertise. The design for the ‘Cheval Cosmique’ was imagined by the artist Gianpaolo Pagni.

To achieve the miniature artwork of the silhouetted horse, the artesian works for almost a week to bring it to life. The waves on the dial are created by working on a gold plate which is approximately less than half a centimetre thick, which is then engraved with waves followed by accentuating them with fine black lacquer. The wave engraving is then fixed in place on the dial, where the uncovered portion is then taken up by aventurine, or enamel and mother-of-pearl. The beautiful silhouette of the horse is then carefully put it place, as the final touch to this artistic creation. 

The two watches in the Arceau Cheval Cosmique collection do differ in dial designs. The first features a larger version of the silhouetted horse, at the heart and centre of the dial. The horse is then surrounded by the intricate wave patterns. The background of the dial features deep shades of aventurine to bring out a fantastic contrast and make the horse and the waves stand out. All of this is encased in a 41mm white gold casing. The movement behind this model is the mechanical self-winding Manufacture Hermès H1837. The movement functions the hour and minute hands and has a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. To match the beautiful aventurine on the dial, the watch comes equipped with an abyss blue alligator strap. 

The second variant of the Arceau Cheval Cosmique features a 38mm case set with 82 diamonds around the bezel. The dial features the silhouetted horse in a smaller version compared to the first model, which is now also facing the opposite direction. Along with the wave pattern, the luminous dial features mother-of-pearl along with enamel. Further differing from the first model, on the mother-of-pearl, sloped Arabic numerals have been used to indicate the hour indexes (9, 11, 12, 1 and 2). The movement used for this model is the manufacture of Hermès H1912 movement. This mechanical self-winding calibre also comes with a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. To match the enamel on the dial, this variant of the Arceau Cheval Cosmique features a Chantilly alligator strap. 

With both watches limited to 24 pieces each, The Arceau Cheval Cosmique watches is designed by expert artisans to evoke emotion, and not just tell the time simply. 

HERMÈS Arceau L’heure De La Lune Specification:

• Case diameters : 41mm and 38mm for the diamond bezel
• Case material : White gold
• Dials: Aventurine with white gold engraving and Enamelled white gold, mother-of-pearl and engraved gold applique
• Crystal : Sapphire crystal and case-back with anti-glare treatment
• Water resistance : 3 atm/ 30 meters
• Movement : Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement , 50 power reserve
• Functions : Hours, minutes

Pricing : Upon request

Originally designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978, the 43mm case for the Arceau L’heure de la lune comes in either white gold or platinum, each of which compliments the dark tones of the dials nicely. The dial comes in either a Martian or Black Sahara meteorite dial, which as mentioned before has two moons made from mother-of-pearl. The moons aren’t just made from mother-of-pearl either. The 12 o’clock moon is adorned by a Pegasus figure, which has been designed by “dream-designer” Dimitri Rybaltchenko. 

The reason for this addition on the moon phase is that the horse is representative of the origins of HERMÈS. The Pegasus inscribed moon has been labelled Pleine Lune, which translates to “full moon”. While it showcases the roots of the brand, it’s addition is also supposed to portray the passage between two worlds, where magic and reality merge. The moon at 6 o’clock has been kept without any engravings, to depict a realistic representation of the actual surface. 

If this wasn’t enough to get you admiring this piece, then the real showstopper is the two mobile counters displaying the time and date. Maintaining the horizontal distance between the two counters at all times, they almost perform a contemporary choreographed dance as they rotate around the dial, hiding and revealing the moon discs. This is all performed by a module which patent pending, has been exclusively developed for HERMÈS. As mentioned earlier, the mobile counters showcase the time (minute and hour hand) along with the date (single rotating hand). The font for the counters has been done in sloping Arabic numerals, to work as another aesthetic feature (if there wasn’t enough already!).

The main engine running all these components is HERMÈS’s H1837 movement. With a movement thickness of 3.7mm, the mechanical self-winding movement functions the hours, minutes, date and the rotation of the mobile counters. 

Depending on the version, the HERMÈS Arceau L’heure de la lune comes in either a matt alligator strap in black, Havana or Veronese green. The HERMÈS Arceau L’heure de la lune is indeed a unique piece, letting the wearer be lost in the sense of time and space. The three variations of this watch are all limited edition models, which have varying limited numbers.

HERMÈS Arceau L’heure De La Lune Specification:

• Case diameter : 43mm
• Case material : White gold /Platinum
• Dial: Sahara meteorite, Lunar meteorite or Martian meteorite
• Crystal : Sapphire crystal and case-back with anti-glare treatment
• Water resistance : 3 atm/ 30 meters
• Movement : Hermès Manufacture H1837 movement
• Functions : Hours, minutes, date, double moon phase (display of moon phases seen from the northern and southern hemispheres

Pricing :

White gold black Sahara meteorite dial – $54,100.00 USD

White gold Lunar meteorite dial – $43,000.00 USD

Platinum Martian meteorite dial – By request