IWC – Watch Advice https://www.watchadvice.com.au Luxury watch reviews, news & advice Sat, 12 Aug 2023 11:28:30 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.8.1 Celebrity Watch Spotting: Female Soccer Stars And Their Timepieces https://www.watchadvice.com.au/18060/celebrity-watch-spotting-female-soccer-stars-and-their-timepieces/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/18060/celebrity-watch-spotting-female-soccer-stars-and-their-timepieces/#respond Sat, 12 Aug 2023 11:28:28 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=18060 As the 2023 Fifa Womens Soccer Worldcup is underway in Australia and New Zealand, it’s time we look into some of the female stars of the sport and the timepieces they wear.

The 2023 Fifa Women’s World Cup is the 9th edition so far, and with each tournament passing becoming an ever more popular event around the world. The tournament is held a year after the men’s edition, and for the first time for the Women’s World Cup, the tournament has been expanded to include 32 teams.

With this prestigious sport comes the many stand-out stars from each team. As they stand out on the pitch with their performances, outside of the pitch they show their taste in fashion and their taste in luxury timepieces. In this article, we present some of the female international stars that represent the sporting world of football and the watches they’ve been spotted with!

Sam Kerr

Seen as one of the best forwards in Woman’s football history, Sam Kerr is a proud Australian football star. The captain of the Australian National Woman’s team, the Matildas, and current club player for Chelsea Football Club, she holds quite a few records for herself. Records such as all-time leading goal scorer for W-league and Matildas along with National Woman’s Soccer League Golden Boot just to name a few.

Sam Kerr With IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Rose Gold Green Dial

IWC recently (June 29th, 2023) was proud to announce Sam Kerr as the newest Friend of the Brand. Kerr states in regards to this partnership “I am excited to represent IWC because it is a company that celebrates those who follow their dreams,” states Kerr. “Throughout my career, I have always stayed true to myself which is something IWC and I have in common. Whether it is through sports or engineering watches, we strive for excellence by doing things our own way.” 

With this partnership, Sam Kerr has been spotted wearing quite a few IWC watches, in particular their chronograph models. One of her go-to timepieces has been the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Rose Gold Green Dial (Ref. IW388110). The timepiece features the brand’s in-house Calibre 69385 movement giving out a power reserve of approximately 46 hours.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Rose Gold Green Dial

Megan Rapinoe

Megan Rapinoe is a current American professional soccer player that plays as a winger for the United States National Team and also OL Region at club level. Megan Rapinoe was part of the 2019 squad of the United States National Team that won the prestigious Women’s World Cup Trophy. Not only was she part of the winning team, she played a crucial role in the final but scoring a penalty.

Megan Rapinoe With Rolex 18k Yellow Gold Day-Date 40

Off the field, she has good taste in timepieces, with her being spotted wearing a Rolex Day Date “President”. This Day-Date 40 model is made from 18 ct yellow gold with a champagne-color dial, fluted bezel, and the iconic President bracelet. It’s been said that Megan Rapinoe bought herself the Day-Date 40 as a gift for winning the 2019 Women’s World Cup.

Rolex 18k Yellow Gold Day-Date 40

Leah Williamson

Leah Cathrine Williamson OBE is an English professional Football player who currently plays for Arsenal and is Captain’s the English Womens National Team. Leah Williamson has spent almost all of her career at the domestic level at Arsenal where she has won many accolades with the team and also on a personal level. Although she has won the Euro’s and is a national hero, unfortunately, she was not able to make the cut for the 2023 Women’s World Cup as she ruptured her anterior cruciate ligament in April, forcing her to sit out of the England squad and give the captaincy to Millie Bright.

Leah Williamson With Rolex Datejust 36mm Two-Tone.

Leah’s choice of watch brand also appears to be Rolex, as she has been seen wearing a Rolex Datejust 36mm two-tone. This model comes with a steel case and a two-tone jubilee bracelet. Matching the gold of the bracelet is a beautiful champagne dial, followed by the iconic large Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock.

Datejust 36mm Two-Tone.

Lucy Bronze

Lucy Bronze is another Professional English Football player that has achieved great success. Her hard work and ability has made her a consistent contender for FIFA Player of the Year Award. She currently plays at the club level for Liga Futbol Club Barcelona and also the English Women’s national team. Some of her personal accolades include being named BBC Women’s Footballer of the Year for 2018 and 2020 along with being named the first English footballer to win the UEFA Women’s Player of the Year Award.

Lucy Bronze With Rolex Datejust 16013 on Jubilee Bracelet

Much like her English compatriot, Leah Williamson, Bronze also prefers to wear a two-tone Rolex. She has been spotted wearing a Rolex Datejust 16013 on Jubilee Bracelet. Like Leah’s Rolex, this model has a 36mm stainless steel case with a two-tone Jubilee bracelet made from stainles steel and 18k yellow gold. The dial is white with Roman numerals in 18k yellow gold, along with the the Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock.

Rolex Datejust 16013 on Jubilee Bracelet

Alex Morgan

One of the biggest American icon’s when it comes with Women’s Football, Alex Morgan achieved quite a lot of success in her career as a professional footballer. For her international success, the pinnicle is her winning both the 2015 and 2019 FIFA Women’s World Cup. She has acheived numerous success on club level as well, including the prestigious UEFA Women’s Champion League. Her personal accollades are too long to list here, but does include a host of golden boots for her role as a Foward.

Alex Morgan Wearing Hublot Big Bang One Click Steel Blue Diamonds 39MM

Outside the world of football, Alex Morgan is ambassador for Hublot, and she has been seen wearing a range of Hublot timepeices. One of her favourite Hublot’s seems to be the Big Bang One Click Steel Blue Diamonds 39MM, which she collaborated with Hublot. The polished and satin-finished stainless steel comes with a bezel 42 diamonds totaling ~1.00ct. The watch is perfectly complimented with a blue rubber and alligator leathe strap.

Hublot Big Bang One Click Steel Blue Diamonds 39MM

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What’s A GADA Watch & Do You Have One? If Not, We’ve Some Great Options For You! https://www.watchadvice.com.au/16458/whats-a-gada-watch-do-you-have-one-if-not-weve-some-great-options-for-you/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/16458/whats-a-gada-watch-do-you-have-one-if-not-weve-some-great-options-for-you/#respond Mon, 12 Jun 2023 05:25:51 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=16458

The GADA Watch – Go Anywhere, Do Anything Watch is a term that’s been popping up a little bit lately in both the press and across multiple forums. So it got us thinking, do people know what it is, do they have one themselves, and what are some great options if you’re looking for a watch that is truly Go Anywhere, Do Anything?

The Go Anywhere, Do Anything watch. Sounds like a myth, or maybe just a new term for the “One Watch Collection” which is more probable. But essentially, it’s what the name says – a watch that you can go anywhere with (and I mean anywhere) and do anything with it on your wrist.

The Rolex Submariner Date 116600 could be some people’s GADA watch…

With a GADA watch, it does need to be versatile and appropriate for many situations or occasions. For this reason, we’ve created a bit of a checklist in terms of what boxes a great GADA watch has to check off:

  1. It has to be robust – At least 100m water resistance for any water related adventures, solid case construction and ideally on steel or rubber (leather isn’t great for lots of outdoor activities or climates).
  2. It has to look good – This is a Go Anywhere, Do Anything watch don’t forget. So it needs to be at home on the wrist when wearing a suit for those more formal occasions, but equally (see point 1) be worn in casual settings and not look weird in hiking gear or a pair of board shorts.
  3. It has to be highly legible – Again, see point 1, but a good GADA watch needs a dial that’s easy to read in the day, and at night. Be it at the beach, hiking in the mountains, out to dinner with friends or camping at 2am when you wonder “what that noise was outside my tent”!
  4. It has be the right size – Now this should go without saying, but it’s probably no good having a behemoth on your wrist if you’re going from beach to the boardroom. So for the sake of this exercise, and keeping with the trends today, anything larger than 44mm is a no go, and event then, some 44mm are still too big for many people.
  5. It has to be timeless – This is probably a slightly controversial last point, but if you’re going to have a GADA watch for a long while, then it probably needs to stand the test of time. After all, if it doesn’t and trends change in the watch world, which they frequently do, you’ll need to be buying a new GADA watch more frequently than you’d like!
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional – a good contender for a GADA Watch!

So now that we’ve covered what a great GADA watch should be, let’s explore some options at different price points for a GADA watch should you be in the market for a watch that’s versatile and gets you out of trouble in any situation.

Grand Seiko SBGN027 GMT Quartz

Kicking off, the Grand Seiko SBGN027 GMT Quartz is a great value choice for a GADA watch. It’s got classic looks, reminiscent of a Rolex Explorer II, the GMT function and date for those that travel a lot, and a ridiculously accurate movement, the Calibre 9F86 which is accurate to +/- 10 seconds a year!
The 39mm case is only 12mm think, and has 200m WR with a screw down crown, so it’s robust and easy wearing, plus the black dial and lumed indices make it highly legible anywhere and anytime. Being a smaller sized sports watch, you could dress it up and hide under the cuff if needed.
Australian Recommended RRP: $4,900

Tudor Black Bay 58

Whilst there are a lot of BB58’s now in the range, we’ve chosen the classic BB58 OG with steel bracelet and black dial with the gilt markers.
This ticks all the boxes and for under $6k too. A 200m WR dive watch, looks great on the wrist from suits to the sand, it’s very legible given it’s a dive watch and at 39mm, it wears well on almost anyone and for any occasion. As the BB58 was designed based on the Tudor and Rolex Subs of old, it’s timeless and a modern classic. What more could you want?!
Australian Recommended RRP: $5,590

Omega Seamaster Diver 300

If the Omega Seamaster is good enough for James Bond to wear 24/7, then it stands to reason it should be the perfect GADA watch!
Again another diver (there’s a reason they are so popular in demand), we’ve chose the black dial variant with the black rubber strap as you can dress this up or down, and wear anywhere for anything. It’s as at home in the ocean as it is on the wrist playing Black Jack at the Casino, and with METAS certification, incredibly accurate and highly robust. It checks all the boxes.
Australian Recommended RRP: $8,350 (on rubber strap)

Breitling SuperOcean Heritage

The Breitling SuperOcean Heritage in 2-tone Rose Gold is a slightly different look. Not quite a diver, not quite a dress watch, it’s a nice happy medium that’s designed to take whatever you throw at it.
It’s a good looking watch, and the touch of the Rose Gold makes it perfect for more formal occasions. However on the rubber strap with a push button folding clasp and sliding micro adjust and with 200m WR and screw down crown it’s anything but a formal watch! It wears well at 42mm and on most wrists under the cuff if it isn’t too tight.
Australian Recommended RRP: $9,090

IWC Pilot Chronograph 41

For something a little different, the IWC Pilot’s Chrono 41 is a good option, due to it’s robustness being a pilot watch and the new 100m WR. Combine this with the added day, date and timing functions, the IWC Pilot Chronograph is highly versatile and at 41mm, wears very well.
This particular version is on leather, but with the IWC EasX-CHANGE system, swap this to the blue rubber and you’ve got a great GADA watch option
Australian Recommended RRP: $11,400

You may have noticed we’ve stayed away from Rolex. Most people gravitate towards the Submariner or Explorer for a GADA watch (with good reason) and we felt they were too obvious to include in this article, and lets face it, there’s a wide world of watches out there and whilst we’ve picked 5 GADA watches we think are great options, there’s plenty more we just can’t cover in one article.

Do you agree with these choices? Do you have a great GADA watch? Let us know in the comments section below!

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Hands On With The IWC Portofino 39mm Chronograph https://www.watchadvice.com.au/16024/hands-on-with-the-iwc-portofino-39mm-chronograph/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/16024/hands-on-with-the-iwc-portofino-39mm-chronograph/#respond Tue, 30 May 2023 04:35:29 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=16024 It’s not often that we get a dress watch to review, and even rarer that I would wear a more dressier watch around for a week or so, but the IWC Portofino held it’s own and even got out to an event or two where I could really show it off.

What We Love

  • Clean easy to read dial
  • Classic looks that won’t date
  • 39mm size wears well

What We Don’t

  • Lack of see through case back
  • No Date display
  • Not easy to read in low light with no lume

Overall Rating: 7.75/10

  • Value for money: 7/10
  • Wearability: 8/10
  • Design: 8/10
  • Build quality: 8/10

The Portofino collection has been around since 1984 in the IWC catalogue, and offers an alternative to the Portugieser range for those wanting a slightly smaller and more elegant piece on their wrist. If you’ve kept up with my other articles around dress watches, many of you may know that I’m not massively into dress watches but was keen to try out the new IWC Portofino Chronograph 39mm.

It’s a watch that grows on you. If you’re like me and not naturally inclined to wear more formal watches, then you really need to spend time with the Portofino to appreciate it. You probably should also be the person that can either pull off a more dressier watch with casual clothes, or have places to wear this, like more formal events, business attire at the office or even just a nice dinner out where you can admire the watch in the dimmer restaurant lighting. Given I’m not an office worker anymore, I opted for the event and dinners out options to show this piece off, and I also tried to wear it casually and I think i got away with it!

The Design

Let’s start by looking at the design of the Portofino. These are classically designed, elegant watches that in the words of IWC, “reflects the sophisticated lifestyle of the Mediterranean” which I tend to agree with, and should I find myself sipping a latte or wine overlooking The Med on a nice summer’s day in Italy, then I may just be wearing such a watch. I instead decided that I would try and emulate that Mediterranean vibe by spending time at my favourite café/restaurant at the marina overlooking Moreton Bay. It’s not the same, but will do for now!

The dial is clean and easy to read, and the rose gold hands and indices do make it feel quite sophisticated on the wrist. The hour sub-dial and small seconds dial at 12 and 6 o’clock make a nice change from standard chronograph layouts with either 2 or 3 sub-dials at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock and I feel gives the dial a little more balance. These are actually nicely accentuated by being inset from the main dial, with a circular graining pattern being offset by the 18k rose gold ring acting as the border to each.

The case is a classic dress design, with the polished stainless steel catching the light no matter where you are, and the vintage style lugs help add to the look and feel of the watch, which was designed to emulate the old style pocket watches turned wrist watches. The inner seconds track helps to ensure that when the chronograph is running, you can easily read each individual second on the dial once stopped, and the seconds and minute hands are slightly curved at the ends, which helps to ensure accuracy when reading, and eliminates any parallax error that can occur.

The pump style pushers enhance the watch’s vintage feel, and are nice and easy to use, with the large ends making starting, stopping and resetting the chronograph easy, and the push in crown makes adjusting the time relatively effortless, however, this mean the water resistance on the watch is only 30 meters, and with the lack of a screw down crown, I’d caution the usage of it around water – anything more than some splashes from daily chores or washing your hands would make me think twice about my choice of watch for the day!

How It Wears

The IWC Portofino Chronograph wears very well. This is due to several factors. The dimensions of it being 39mm in diameter, 12.4mm thick, and only 45.8 lug to lug means it wear compact on my 17.5cm wrist. The other is the lug design, being thin and quite curved, it allows the strap to sit on the wrist flush and hug the sides of the wrist, without the need to bend or give, which some dress watches with leather straps need.

The alligator strap is fairly durable, and whilst stiff when you first put it on, it doesn’t take too long to mould to the shape you want it. The pin buckle clasp if fairly sturdy as well, and I had no issues with doing it up or undoing it, and the design means that the strap sits nice and tight in the clasp with very little protrusion out of it, whereas some clasps can make the strap sit up and not flat.

The flat caseback sits nicely on the back of the wrist, and with minimal engraving or embossing, there is nothing to catch hairs on at all, which I felt is always a good aspect when you have a few hairs on the wrist like me! Having the approximately 12mm case height allows it to wear nicely under a shirt or jacket, which I feel is essential for any dress watch.

The Movement

One of the downsides to the IWC Portofino Chronograph is the fact that it has a closed case-back, hiding the calibre 79350. Now the 79350 isn’t an in house movement per se, I still would like to see it and the decorative finishing, albeit machine finished. The WIC Calibre 79350 is based off a standard Valjoux 7750 which many brands still use today, and rightfully so as it’s a solid workhorse movement.

The chronograph functions smoothly and whilst the 79350 doesn’t feature a column wheel, instead a cam system, the action on the stop/start is seamless. The addition of the oscillating pinion and lateral clutch in the movement also assists in alleviating any jumping in the chronograph, which is where the column wheel and vertical clutch normally comes into play.

As mentioned previously, the Portofino Chronograph has a push down crown, not screw in, so water resistance is not great, but will handle most day to day activities around the house should this be your daily wearer.

Final Thoughts

The IWC Portofino Chronograph 39mm is a good looking watch that will stand the test of time style wise. At 39mm and not too thick, it’s easy wearing and can pair with most outfits. I dressed it down most of the time I spent with the watch, and whilst not a dress watch guy, I got used to wearing it with jeans and a tee. Maybe the watch helped to dress up a casual outfit instead?

The one sticking point I do have with the watch is the price. At AUD $9,900 retail, I felt it’s probably on the higher side when you look at the specs. Just shy of $10,000 for a time only chronograph, not date, closed caseback and a modified Valjoux 7750 movement seemed a little high when you can compare to other brands out there with in house movements, date, higher water resistance and display caseback. We reviewed the new TAG Heuer Glassbox not long ago, and this would seem slightly better value given the above, albeit a little less dressy. However, in saying this, IWC is a great brand and whilst the movement on the Portofino isn’t in house, the modifications that IWC make to it certainly make up for it and if you’re after a nice looking dress watch, then the IWC Portofino certainly ticks lots of boxes.

Reference: IW391406

Specification

  • Case: 39mm, 12.4mm thick, 45.8mm lug to lug
  • Case: Stainless Steel
  • Dial: White with sunray finish, inset sub-dials with circular graining and rose gold hands and indices
  • Crystal: Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
  • Water resistance: 30m (3BAR)
  • Movement: 79350 Calibre, Automatic, self-winding with 31 Jewels and vibrating at 4Hz (28,800 vph)
  • Power reserve: 44 hours
  • Bracelet: Black alligator strap with high polish pin buckle clasp

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $9,900

Availability: Available through IWC boutiques, authorised dealers and online at iwc.com

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Watch Spotting At Met Gala 2023 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/15429/watch-spotting-at-met-gala-2023/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/15429/watch-spotting-at-met-gala-2023/#respond Thu, 04 May 2023 07:04:37 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=15429 The Met Gala. Fashion’s biggest night of the year. An exclusive event also known as the Costume Institute Benefit, is an annual fundraising event that is held at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. This event is one of the biggest high-profile fashion events in the world, an event where you’d expect a lot of high-profile people to attend!

The event has a strict invitation policy, where only certain celebrities, fashion designers, influential figures, and models are invited. As this is a fashion event, there will be a range of outfits on show, from the stylish and classy to the wild and outrageous. With these outfits come the accessories, accessories that we love: watches.

Having a nice watch on the wrist can perfectly complement and even lift the attire being worn. Every watch collector has that one piece that comes out only on special occasions. For celebrities and attendees of the Met Gala, this is their chance to showcase the best they have. So without further ado, let’s look at the timepieces that were worn during this year’s Met Gala.

Simu Liu – Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Ref. 4500V
Image Ref: Monochrome watches/Getty Images
The Canadian actor known for portraying Shang-chi in the 2021 Marvel movie Shang-Chi was seen wearing a Vacheron Constantin Overseas. This particular model is stainless steel with a black dial.
Price: $35,500 AUD

Stormzy – Patek Philippe Nautilus

Ref. 5711/110P-001
Image Ref: Theperpetualwatch / Uproxx/Getty Images
The British rapper Michael Owuo Jr., more famously known as Stormzy, made a stylish entrance into this year’s Met Gala in a floral print blue and black suit. Accompanying this suit was his rare full platinum Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/110P with a factory diamond bezel.
Price: $155,000 USD.

Eileen Gu – IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34

Ref (IW659802)
Image ref: Watchilove / Unofficialnetworks

The 19-year-old freestyle skier has represented China in halfpipe, slopestyle, and big air events since 2019. Matching her beautiful white and pink dress was her IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34, with a pink leather strap.
Price: $30,200 AUD

Jack Harlow – Rolex GMT Master II (Batman) 

Ref. 126710BLNR-0003
Image Ref: Bilboard.com
Jack Harlow the famous American rapper was seen at the Gala wearing an navy Tommy Hilfiger jacket and pants, which let his stainless steel Rolex GMT stand out quite nicely. This Rolex GMT Master II has a blue and black bezel insert and is iconically known as the “Batman”.
Price: $15,050 AUD

Roger Federer – Rolex Perpetual 1908

Image Ref: Gettyimages.
One of the all-time greats, if not the greatest tennis player ever, Roger Federer in a slick and sharp suit. On the wrist? A piece that’s just as classy and elegant as his attire. The Rolex Perpetual 1908 in white gold and fluted bezel was just released at this year’s Watches and Wonders.
Price: $32,850 AUD

Rami Malek –  Cartier Tank Must

Ref. WGTA0091
Image Ref: JustJared.com
Rami Malek, the American actor who played the villain in the last Bond Movie “No Time to Die” and also the lead role in Bohemian Rhapsody wore what is a very minimalistic outfit. The somewhat plain black and white attire was accompanied by his 18l Rose gold Cartier Tank Louis.
Price: $20,500 AUD

Michelle Yeoh – Richard Mille platinum with baguette-cut diamonds

Ref (RM 07-01)
Image Ref: Jamesedition.com / Getty Images
The Malaysian actress famous for her roles in Crazy Rich Asians, Shang Chi and 007’s Tomorrow Never Dies just to name a few was seen donning the Richard Mille RM07-01. This timepiece makes use of ceramic, gold, carbon, and of course…diamonds!
Price: $1,000,000 USD

Nick Jonas – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Ref (26315ST.OO.1256ST.02.)
Image Ref: John Shearer/Wireimage
The American singer, songwriter, and actor Nick Jonas wore a sharp suit with a leather jacket combo accompanied by a very fine timepiece tucked away. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 38mm, a stainless steel chronograph with a beautiful silver dial.
Price: $31,500 USD.

Anitta – Roger Dubuis Velvet Platinum 38MM

Ref. (RDDBVE0019)
Image Ref: Mike Coppola/Getty Images
The Brazilian superstar gracefully entered Met Gala 2023 for her third appearance in a Marc Jacobs gown with a long silky train. For us watch aficionados, however, the center of her outfit was the Roger Dubuis Velvet Platinum 38mm.
Price: $ 2,155,000 AUD.
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Recap of Watches And Wonders 2023 Part 2 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/14650/matts-top-12-from-watches-and-wonders/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/14650/matts-top-12-from-watches-and-wonders/#respond Sun, 09 Apr 2023 23:22:05 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=14650 Now that the craziness of Watches and Wonders 2023 has subsided, I wanted to take a bit of a look back at some of the models that got my attention and why – there were some surprises in there!

Each year, the watch world waits to see what wonders come out of the industry’s premier trade show. Some years we see brilliance, and others years not so much. I feel that this year was a good year for the watch world, and we saw some really great pieces launched, some cool novelties and some brands just did some nice and timely updates to their core models. And from all reports, it seems that most commentators felt the same. So without further ado, here are my top 12 picks.

Piaget’s Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

Whilst Piaget added two new Perpetual Calendar models to their Polo line, my pick was the Rose gold and green. It just looks great, and builds on their release from earlier in year. At 8.65mm, it’s thin, and a the movement is stunning and complex. which can be seen through there caseback.
The fact that Piaget has also given it the quick change SingleTouch system, to swap out the green alligator or rubber strap just adds to this allowing you change the look, depending on your mood. At AUD $116,000, it’s not cheap, but you get a lot of watch for this!
You can read all about it here.

Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

Panerai went back to their roots this year, and told us their Storia Leggendaria. With this, bringing us the new Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 days) in hand finished eSteel.
Whilst not the most techically impressive, although it is an 8-day manual wind, so this is pretty decent, these are cool looking, and do hark back to their original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Also, each model is hand finished to give it the distressed look, so essentially, all unique!
Check out our write up about it here

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

Jaeger-LeCoultre focused on their Reverso Tribute line this year, and some of their models was absolutely fantastic. One of which was their Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which gives you 2 great watches in one!
Whilst each model looked stunning, my pic was the Pink Gold variant. The way the details contrast on the chronograph face, along with the “floating” look of the dial and bottom register are second to none!
For more on this, click here.

Hermes H08 In Rose Gold & Titanium

The Hermes H08 in Rose Gold and Titanium was a surprise for me. I’m not normally a fan of Hermes watches, but this model, in this combination jut works, and looks both casual, and just a little bit formal – it’s a paradox!
Hermes have used a good mix of Rose gold, titanium and black ceramic, and paired with the black rubber strap and the multi-faceted dial, all works together and is something a little different to the norm.
You can check out our write up on it here

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN “Oceana”

I’m a sucker for a good pilot’s watch, and need to add one back into the collection. And the new IWC Pilot’s Chrono 41mm in Oceana Blue is a hot contender. Although, speaking to the IWC boutique, there’s not a lot of detail on when this will be in, so I guess I’ll have to wait.
IWC have done some great releases in coloured ceramic and this is just the next to come out, and with the denim strap, looks like the perfect casual summer watch. Blending this with IWC’s DNA in pilots watches and you’ve a great piece.
Fly over to our write up on it here

Tudor Black Bay 41 Burgundy Dial

Tudor are a little more “edgy” than their big sister, but sometimes, a nice update is all you need. The Tudor Black Bay 41 with the burgundy dial was just this. Nothing ground-breaking, but a slimmer case, refined details on the dial and a choice now of three different bracelet/strap options with their T-Fit micro adjust.
Tudor have also made the movement just that little bit better – now Master Chronometer certified to 0/+5s per day and keeping the 70 hour power reserve. What more could you ask for?
For more details, check it out here

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm XPS

Chopard’s new Alpine Eagle in Lucent Steel and a stunning Monte Rosa pink dial and small seconds was one of those watches where Chopard took an already good watch and made it better! The addition of the small seconds is a nice touch, and the dial is just a stunning colour.
In this model, you now the calibre L.U.C 96.40-L movement, meaning the watch has slimmed down to just 8mm thick and the movement is beautiful with an 18k micro rotor powering it.
You can find out more about this model here

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

The Odysseus Chronograph was one of the more truly unique releases at this years event, and it was a first for the brand, having never done an automatic chronograph before now.
One of the most interesting aspects of the Odysseus Chronograph is the dial configuration using the outer track and the central seconds and minutes hands to tell the elapsed time, rather than sub dials. Plus the re-set to zero function is pretty cool, and something not seen before.
You can read all about it here

Rolex Yacht-Master Titanium

Rolex aren’t normally known for their innovative releases, but this year, they’ve come out with a first for The Crown – a sports watch in Titanium in the form of the Yacht-Master in 42mm. This is a great move from Rolex, adding another variant to the Yacht-Master line, and giving people a watch that is less dressy than the standard 40mm models, and a completely different look to the precious metal models.
It’s a great stealthy looking sports watch, and due to the titanium, is light and durable and fit for the purpose it was designed for, as we saw when Sir Ben Ainslie wore the prototype a couple of years back – leaving the world waiting for its release!
Check out my thoughts on the Yacht-Master Ti here

Grand Seiko Tentagraph

Grand Seiko have never done a fully mechanical chronograph before, having limited this complication to their spring drive models. But this year, they released a fairly under the radar chronograph that is fully mechanical. However, look at the details and its more impressive than it would initially seem.
A Ten beats per seconds chronograph, accurate to -3/+5s per day, tested over 20 days, housed in an all titanium case and finished to the standards that you expect from Grand Seiko. Its all in the small details, and this is what makes this watch a sleeper!
To check out the full write up, click here

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X

This was probably the craziest watch release this year (I cold be wrong), but you’d expect nothing less from Roger Dubuis. The Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X is designed in the theme of the new limited edition 50th anniversary Lamborghini Countach LPI 800-4. Hence the name.
Lamborghini design cues are all over this watch, from the engine case between the 90° V-Shape Double Flying Tourbillon, to the way the case looks like the wheels and tyres. It’s a serious piece of kit, to go with a serious car. But not for us mere mortals at $1,210,000 and limited to 8 pieces, I won’t be lining up anytime soon!
Check out the full write up and pics here

Bell & Ross Diver White Bronze

This may not have been on many people’s top 12, but I’ve included it for this reason. Bell & Ross have created a driver with a difference, and whilst not vintage in style, it’s got vintage style cues that just work with the overall design aesthetic.
The bronze case, paired with the opaline dial and brown strap give it a unique look, and the fact that it is ISO-6425 complied means it’s a true divers watch. It may not be for everyone, but that in my eyes isn’t a bad thing, as it means you probably won’t see many in the wild, and that’s a talking point in my mind!
Check out our coverage of it here

Well that’s it for another year of Watches and Wonders. It was a great show this year, and there were some brilliant releases, and not so brilliant releases. Whilst I couldn’t cover all of the releases here (it wouldn’t be a top 12 if I could!), you can check out all of the brands and models covered at Watches and Wonder 2023 here.

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Recap of Watches and Wonders 2023 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/14498/recap-of-watches-and-wonders-2023/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/14498/recap-of-watches-and-wonders-2023/#respond Fri, 07 Apr 2023 11:01:57 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=14498 With Watches and Wonders 2023 officially over, we can now look back and see some of the creations that came out in the world of Horology. There were some amazing timepieces that came out this year, from innovative to new designs and new looks, this year’s Watches and Wonders had it all. Saying this, it’s almost impossible to pick out all the watches that stood out and put them into an article, as there are so many great pieces (we would be reading a while!).

So instead, we present my favourite twelve picks that came out of this year’s Geneva show, from Rolex’s Daytona to Vacheron Constantin’s Retrograde update.

Ulysse Nardin Freak One

The latest update to one of the most daring timepieces created in the 21st century. This newest creation, the Freak One, comes packed with technology while still remaining durable, easy to use, and designed to be worn as a daily.
The timepiece has been given a black DLC-coated titanium case with a rose gold 5N bezel with a matching dial interior. The three signature characteristics that made the Freak an icon is retained on this timepiece: no hands, no dial, and no crown. Ulysse Nardin is aiming to make the Freak One its flagship timepiece. You can read more about this latest FREAK creation here!

TAG Heuer Carrera Date 36mm

While TAG Heuer updated quite a few of their collections, one that stood out beautifully was the new colourways for the new Carrera Date 36mm.
The vibrant pink dial is just made to stand out. The added snailed finish on the dial makes it a stunning timepiece. TAG Heuer made a bold choice to break away from the traditional colours of black, blue, or white. A choice that we think will pay off for the brand. To see more of this pink dial Carrera Date plus more, click here!

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

No list would be complete without seeing the latest update from Rolex. The Rolex Daytona is as emblematic as it gets in the world of watches. The entire range of Daytona’s got an update for this year’s Watches and Wonders.
While the update to a lot of the models in this collection seemed minor, especially aesthetically, what stood out was the 950 platinum edition. Rolex has, for the first time in a Daytona, given the timepiece an open case back. Only visible on the 950 platinum model, Rolex has given this new Daytona collection the new-generation calibre 4131 movement. Read more about this latest update to the Daytona here!

Hublot Square Bang Unico New Editions

2022 saw the release of a world-first, square-shaped Bang Unico from Hublot. This model has enjoyed a lot of success since its release, so why not bring it back with an impressive update?
This year Watches and Wonders saw Hublot unveil three new editions for their Square Bang Unico. Two models in white and black sapphire and an incredible Square Bang Unico in Sapphire. Hublot is one of the leaders of using sapphire materials in their timepiece, so it only makes sense to bring two impressive designs together. Read all about the new Square Bang Unico here!

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Retrograde

Vacheron Constantin, this year has been all about the retrograde update, with some existing collections getting this feature. One of these collections is the Overseas line.
What is already a stunning timepiece with that gorgeous blue dial, this all-new Overseas model gets the retrograde function. The retrograde display is a historical design for Vacheron Constantin, one that fits beautifully on this timepiece as is also accompanied by a moon phase indicator. Read more about this retrograde update for Vacheron’s Overseas model here!

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition

I’ve always been a fan of Montblanc’s Geosphere timepiece. The fact that you get the northern and southern hemispheres on the dial spinning in sync with the day/24hr time was always interesting to see.
Now, Montblanc has given the 1858 Geosphere a new update. Montblanc introduced a new capsule collection that pays tribute to the world’s 14 highest peaks. These mountains are all above 8000 feet and have barely any oxygen, which is the central theme in this new collection. Read more about this latest 1858 Geosphere creation from Montblanc here!

IWC Schaffhausen’s Ingenieur Automatic 40

IWC has given their Ingenieur collection a newly engineered update, which references design codes from Gerald Genta’s Ingenieur SL (ref. 1832) from the 1970s.
The new collection comes with four models, with three models being made from stainless steel and the fourth given the titanium treatment. It takes an old classic and gives it modern design features while also improving wearability and performance. All the right ingredients to make it hit in the world of watchmaking. Read more about IWC’s newest Ingenieur Automatic 40 collection here!

Cartier Skeleton Collection

While this isn’t a singular watch, the entire Cartier Skeleton collection makes it into this list. For this year’s skeleton models update, Cartier is upgrading four new collections, each with their own iconic shape and design.
The Santos-Dumont, Pasha de Cartier, Santos de Cartier, and a grand complications pocket watch are getting aesthetic and mechanical upgrades. With a flawless balance between the movement and dial, Cartier has mastered the art of making skeleton watches, more so evident through this latest collection of skeleton timepieces. Read more about this collection here!

Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton In Black Ceramic

Following on from 2022’s update for the DEFY Skyline models with the new generation of seminal El Primero high-frequency calibre movements, 2023 sees the watches get a new aesthetic upgrade.
Two models in the DEFY Skyline line get a black ceramic makeover, with one of the models being the Skeleton. Crafted entirely in black ceramic, including the bracelet, the DEFY Skyline Skeleton is one of the standout pieces in Zeniths 2023 releases. To read more about this timepiece, click here.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Bi-colour

This year, Oris has updated the Aquis collection with new colours and materials. With the combination of the coloured rubber straps, the Oris Aquis Date Calibre Bi-colour for is one of the stand-outs in the collection.
This fun summer timepiece is offered in two dial colour variations (deep blue and forest green) and has an 18-carat fold finish on the edges of the bezel and matching gold details on the dial. Oh, and did we mention that it features Oris’s incredible 5-day power reserve Calibre 400 movement? If this piques your interest, click here to read more!

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

This one for all the racing enthusiasts out there. The iconic and ageless design of the original 1963 Heuer Carrera has inspired this latest creation from the Swiss giant. With a fresh new dynamic styling, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph will be released with two dial variants: a black and blue dial.
The dial carries a lot of colour accents, with them being the gradient orange ring, a reference to racecar speedometers. Each variant of this new Carrera Chronograph has its own character; however, what’s clear is that both timepieces carry the Carrera icon into the next generation with ageless styling and high-quality movements. To find out more about this Carrera Chronograph update, click here.

Baume & Mercier Riviera 39mm Collection

Another collection of timepieces that stood out was Baume & Mercier’s 39mm Riviera line. Released as part of the celebrations of Riviera’s 50th anniversary, this new collection is offered with different material and dial variations.
Available in either stainless steel with a smoked blue dial or smoked grey sapphire dial or titanium bezel with a smoked grey dial, this new Riviera collection features a beautiful wave transfer decoration on the dial. This latest update for the Riviera collection brings it forward to a new era while keeping all the essence of what makes this piece loved by watch aficionados. To read more about this collection, click here!
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IWC Introduces Two New 41mm Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Editions In Ceramic https://www.watchadvice.com.au/13776/iwc-introduces-two-new-41mm-pilots-chronograph-top-gun-editions-in-ceramic/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/13776/iwc-introduces-two-new-41mm-pilots-chronograph-top-gun-editions-in-ceramic/#respond Tue, 28 Mar 2023 01:00:00 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=13776 Ceramic is notoriously hard to work with, and IWC have quickly mastered the art of the ceramic watch. Last year they stunned us with the white Lake Tahoe and the green Woodlands edition in 44mm. This year, they’ve given the 41mm Pilot Top Gun range the ceramic treatment in a striking Oceana Blue and Jet Black.

IWC introduced the “Colours of TOP GUN” collection of Pilot’s timepieces in coloured ceramic back in 2022, on the back of the hit movie TOP GUN. The Pilot’s chronograph included striking two new colours; IWC Lake Tahoe white and IWC Woodland green. These coloured ceramic cases were also developed in collaboration with Pantone. These models, however, were made in a 44mm ceramic case. Therefore this marks the first time that IWC is presenting a 41mm ceramic case, let alone in these colours.

The 2022 releases from IWC – White Lake Tahoe and Woodland Green Top Gun Editions

This year, continuing IWC’s releases for Watches & Wonders 2023 is the latest editions to the 41mm Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun range – this time in Ceramic. This is the first time the Pilot’s chronograph is presented in a “Jet Black” black zirconium oxide ceramic case. It has been developed in conjunction with Pantone and the inspiration for the new second case colour, blue, was referenced from the U.S. Navy’s working overalls.

The new 41mm Pilot Chronograph Top Gun editions

The first version, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN “Oceana” (ref. 389404) comes in a blue ceramic case. The chronograph pushers and case back of the timepiece is made from lightweight titanium. The colour takes inspiration from U.S Navy’s blue overalls, a work uniform worn by pilots when carrying out tasks on aircraft.

The all blue colourway – Oceana Blue

To match the case, IWC has given this timepiece a blue dial along with a blue rubber strap with a denim finish textile inlay. The Arabic hour indices, hands, day and date window and IWC inscriptions on the dial have all been done in white. This provides a beautiful contrast. The colour combination of blue and white will never go out of style and gives the timepiece a fresh almost summer feel.

Denim coloured strap with rubber inner and Top Gun insignia on the case back

The second timepiece is the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN “Jet Black” edition (ref. 389401). The inspiration behind this “Jet Black” colour comes from the technical components of Supersonic jets. This has been a signature material of IWC TOP GUN since it made its debut back in 2007. Like the blue ceramic version, the design of this Jet Black model takes a similar shape.

The black dial and case of the “Jet Black” 41mm Top Gun edition

Firstly, the chronograph pushers and case back are once again in lightweight titanium. Secondly, the timepiece is given a black dial along with a black rubber strap to complement the black case nicely. Presented with white indices, hands and inscriptions, this model provides the most direct contrast out of the two and gives it a monochrome look.

Titanium crown and chronograph pushers contrast the jet back case

Both timepieces are powered by IWC’s manufacture 69380 calibre movement. The engineers and designers at IWC have put more focus on designing this movement to be more robust, reliable and durable. The sub-dial “vertical” layout of 6, 9 and 12 o’clock is done as a result of the brand’s functional design approach and is now a recognisable feature on IWC chronographs. The 69380 calibre movement operating at 4hz (28,800 VpH) gives out a power reserve of 48 hours.

Case backs of the new models are striking against the coloured ceramic cases

Since 1986 IWC has been a pioneer of Ceramic watch cases. The brand was also one of the first in the world to create different coloured ceramic cases including white, blue or green. Now, using this extensive knowledge and experience, IWC has bought new ceramic colours into the Pilot’s Chronograph range, in the brand new 41mm case size.

References: 389401 (Jet Black), 389404 (Blue Oceana)

Specification:

  • Case: 41mm
  • Case Material: Blue ceramic case
  • Dial: Blue dial or Jet Black dial
  • Crystal: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
  • Water resistance: 100m
  • Movement: Automatic 69380
  • Power reserve: 46 hours
  • Bracelet/Strap: Blue rubber strap with denim inlay or black rubber strap

Australian Recommended Retail Price: Jet Black – $13,500 / Blue Oceana – $17,300

Availability: TBA – for more information, head to IWC.com

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IWC Schaffhausen’s New Ingenieur Automatic 40 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/13594/iwc-schaffhausens-new-ingenieur-automatic-40/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/13594/iwc-schaffhausens-new-ingenieur-automatic-40/#respond Mon, 27 Mar 2023 06:30:00 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=13594 IWC’s latest unveiling is the all-new Ingenier Automatic 40 collection. This newly engineered collection references the design codes of Gerald Genta’s Ingenieur SL (ref. 1832) from the 1970s whilst meeting and exceeding the highest standard for watches of this modern era. This new collection is comprised of four new models; Ref. IW328901, Ref. IW328902, Ref. IW328903 and Ref. IW328904. References 901-903 are made from stainless steel, while reference 904 gets a titanium treatment.

The modern design of IWC’s Ingenieur goes back to the 1970s when the brand commissioned Gerald Genta to redesign the Ingenieur. Back when the model was first released back in 1955, it marked a technical milestone for IWC, as it came with an in-house automatic movement and a soft-iron inner case for extra protection against magnetic fields. With Genta’s artistic touch, he then gave the Ingenieur its own unique visual identity.

Gerald Genta’s Ingenieur SL which was launched in 1976 was an innovative and disruptive design IWC needed, as this creation become a collector’s favourite and arguably one of the more sought-after models from the brand’s history. The design of the Ingenieur SL featured a screw-on bezel with five screws placed in a hexagon pattern, a dial with a unique pattern, and an integrated H-link bracelet. All of these design codes are carried over into IWC’s new Ingenieur Automatic 40 collection, giving a rebirth into the iconic 1970s design.

CEO of IWC Schaffhausen, Chris Grainger-Herr explains this new collection by stating “With the new Ingenieur Automatic 40, the steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet returns to our portfolio. While taking inspiration from Gérald Genta’s Ingenieur SL from the 1970s, we invested a lot of time and effort into engineering a new automatic model with perfect case proportions and ergonomics, a high level of detail and finishing, and equipped with modern movement technology. The new Ingenieur Automatic 40 is a versatile luxury sports watch for the 21st century”.

All four variants in this new collection come with a 40mm case, which from previous models has now been reworked and improved down to the smallest detail to get enhanced ergonomics and wearability. The case, bezel, and bracelet have a combination of polished and satin-finished surfaces to give a high level of detail and finishing. The new case design comes with a newly engineered middle-link attachment, rather than the nose-shaped horns on the 1970s design. Although this gives a similar appearance aesthetically, the ergonomics and wearability of the watch have been greatly improved.

One of the striking new features of the case is the polygonal screws used to secure the bezel to the case. In previous designs, the recesses were screwed into the case, however, each would end up in a different position after being locked tightly onto the case. Through this latest design, the screws are now aesthetically pleasing while also remaining functional.

The dial on each of the four variants comes with the same design, albeit in different colours. The design consists of a distinctive “Grid” structure, which IWC states “creates a balance to the technical and very sculptural case design”. This grid structure is created by offsetting small lines 90 degrees from each other, which is then stamped into the soft iron blank before it’s galvanised.

Christian Knoop, Chief Design Officer of IWC Schaffhausen talks about this updated design “It is not every day that a designer gets the chance to work on an icon like the Ingenieur SL. We were aware of the enormous responsibility this task entailed and proceeded very cautiously. Nevertheless, we believe we succeeded in creating a new and contemporary interpretation, perfected down to the smallest detail. While keeping faithful to the original design signature, the new Ingenieur Automatic 40 is a perfect embodiment of IWC’s engineering excellence”.

The four variants in this collection cater to different personal tastes with different dial colours and material finishes. The first model Ref. IW328901 comes in a stainless steel case with a black dial, rhodium-plated hands, and hour indices (with SuperLumiNova), and an integrated stainless steel bracelet. The second variant, Ref. IW328902 carries the same characteristics as the first model but now comes with a silver-plated dial. The third variant in the stainless steel case is the Ref. IW328903. Featuring rhodium-plated hands and appliques (with SuperLumiNova), this reference comes with a beautiful Aqua dial.

Mood

The last model in this new Ingenieur collection is the Ref. IW328904. This reference comes with a grade 5 titanium case and bracelet that has a highly detailed finish with sandblasted, satin-finished, and polished surfaces. To match the titanium look of the case, the dial has a grey finish, while the hands and indices have a black outline to make it them stand out for readability.

IWC has given this new collection their in-house manufactured 32111 calibre movement that features the automatic pawl winding system. Operating at 4Hz (28, 800 VpH), the calibre 32111 movement gives out an impressive power reserve of 120 hours (5 days).

This modern re-take on an old classic has all the right ingredients to be a hit in the world of watchmaking. The new Ingenieur Automatic 40 takes the original design signature and adds modern design features to make it more ergonomic and improve wearability, while also giving out high performance.

References: IW328901, IW328902, IW328903 & IW328904

Specification:

  • Case: 40mm
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel & Grade 5 Titanium
  • Dial: “Grid” structure in black, silver-plated, aqua blue and grey dial colours.
  • Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
  • Water resistance: 100m (10bar)
  • Movement: IWC caliber 32111
  • Power reserve: 120 hours (5 days)
  • Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel or Grade 5 titanium.

International Recommended Retail Price: TBA

Availability: TBA

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In Search Of The Holy (Watch) Grail Pt. 2 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/13538/in-search-of-the-holy-watch-grail-pt-2/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/13538/in-search-of-the-holy-watch-grail-pt-2/#respond Mon, 20 Mar 2023 12:03:15 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=13538 In my last article, ‘In Search Of The Holy (Watch) Grail Part 1‘, I took a look at what makes a grail watch just that – a grail watch. In this second part, we take a look some options for grail watches and why you would want to put them on your list.

When people think of Grail Watches, many people think abut rare and expensive models. Maybe your mind wanders to a Jacob and Co Astronomia Sky, or you fancy a Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe? Two very nice marvels of engineering timepieces, but unless you’re a very wealthy, and seasoned collector (or Jay Z) very out of reach for mere mortals like most of us! However in this article, I’ll look at a range of potential grail watches that are obtainable, and as explained in the previous article, a Grail Watch can change across your collecting journey based on your experience with brands, knowledge of the industry, maturity and budget. And just for fun, many of these won’t be your go-to grails, but some left of centre pieces that will (possibly) make you re-think your choices.

Two very impressive Grail Watches – Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe and the Jacob and Co. Astronomia Sky.

The Novice Collector

When many of us enter the watch world, we have some ideas of what we’d love to own one day. Now I’m making an assumption here that as a novice starting your collecting journey, you’re not flushed with cash and your first watch isn’t a Daytona. Maybe you’ve dipped your toes in the water with a TAG Heuer Aquaracer as a great entry level steel sports watch, or you want something slightly different to fuel your adventurous spirit and decided on a Longines Spirit Zulu Time – two great choices for under AUD $5,000 and a solid start to your collection. But what would a potential grail watch be in this point of your collecting journey? Let’s explore a couple of options:

IWC Pilots Chronograph 41

IWC are know for their Pilot’s watches, and the Pilots Watch Chronograph in Blue is a great Grail watch for those that have a sense of adventurous spirit. Great looking, wears well and is versatile – can be dressed up or down depending on your preference. A little bit of casual luxury at its best.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: $11,400

Zenith Chronomaster Sport

Zenith has a great history and the El Primero movement is classic, and at one point in time, Zenith supplied the Chronograph movement to Rolex to use in the Daytona. The Chronomaster Sport when released a couple of years ago was an instant hit! Despite some calling it Fake Daytona, this is a good looking watch and the perfect Grail for those wanting a great blend of classic and modern looks in a sports watch.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: $16,600

The Intermediate Collector

So you’ve collecting now for about 5 or so years. You’ve got some decent pieces in the collection, perhaps you’ve been lucky to obtain one of the above Novice Grails, and you’ve now moved your Grail Goal to something a little higher. You want something that people will instantly notice, and recognise, and know you’re serious about watches. So what do you put on your list? Here’s a couple of pieces that you could aim for…

Rolex Yacht-Master 40

Whilst not much more price wise than a Chronomaster Sport, the fact that this is a Rolex puts it into a higher tier, as generally speaking, you’ve had to have bought a few pieces through your chosen dealer to score one of these (Unless you buy grey or 2nd hand, then you’re paying more!) The Yacht-Master is a great Grail choice as it’s not your standard Submariner or GMT Master II or Daytona that everyone lusts after. It’s both sporty and elegant with the polishing on the case and inner links, can be dressed up or down and is just that little bit different!
Australian Recommended Retail Price: $17,350

Omega Blue Side Of The Moon

Now here is one for the true watch lovers. The Omega Blue Side Of The Moon (BSOTM) with moonsphase, Ceragold bezel and Adventurine dial with 18k Sedna Gold indices in an all blue ceramic case looks visually stunning, and stands out from the crowd. The Adventurine dial mimics the night sky and each dial is unique, due to the way the glass is made, and the Senda Gold Moon on the moonsphase display is stunning. At 44.5mm it’s on the larger side, but wears very well!
Australian Recommended Retail Price: $22,500

The Seasoned Collector

You’ve been in the game now for a while, you’ve got a pretty good knowledge of most things watch related, and you’ve bought, sold and built your collection over many years. In all probability, you’re a little older and financially secure (unless you’re a crypto kid, won the lotto, or have mastered your TikTok influencer game!) and now you’re looking for that “special piece” to round out your collection…for now. Two timepieces that you could explore adding to your wrist, I mean, list:

Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Yes, you read that right. Piaget. I could have gone with a Rose Gold Daytona with diamond baguettes, but that would be too obvious. The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a fantastic statement piece that says “I don’t follow the crowd”. The green dial is stunning, and Piaget pioneered the Ultra Thin movement over 50 years ago, which you can read here. It’s a 42mm case, only 8.65mm thick, and to cram all those complications into a movement that’s only 4mm thick is a work of art and science!
Australian Recommended Retail Price: $89,000

Breguet Classique Hora Mundi 5727

Breguet are known for their beautiful watch making, and whilst not a hype watch brand, they are steeped in history, and have some very elegant and classic pieces. The 18k Gold Hora Mundi 5727 combines instant time-zone jump with synchronised date, 24-hour and city indications, perfect for those wanting to travel and do it in style!
Australian Recommended Retail Price: $100,000

Money Is No Object

You’ve made it. You don’t worry about money and the world is your oyster. Perhaps you’re an A-List Hollywood celebrity, or a multi-platinum recording artist and your watch collection has it’s own room in your mansion. And for us mortals, these Grail Watches are what dreams are made of, or rather, just in our dreams! However, I won’t be showing any Patek Philippe’s or AP’s here, again those are too obvious. Here are some alternative pieces to drool over!

Blancpain Villeret Carrousel Volant Une Minute

Blancpain may be known for their dive watches, but their complications are special. The Carrousel Volant Une Minute has a one-minute flying carrousel complication that Blancpain has revived and incorporated into a watch for the first time and all enclosed into a 43mm Platinum case and 14mm thick. Oh, and it’s limited edition too just to ensure exclusivity.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: $293,200

Roger Dubuis Excalibur DT Black Ceramic

Not for the faint of heart, Roger Dubuis makes some out there watches, but they are engineering marvels, on par with the likes of Richard Mille. The Excalibur DT Black Ceramic is a manual winding, Double Flying Tourbillon, limited to 28 pieces in a 45mm case. Oh, and it’s got a Geneva Seal, so the movement is up there with the best. This is a real stealth baller watch on another level!
Australian Recommended Retail Price: $415,000

So fellow watch friends, there are some grail watch choices that you can aspire to, and work towards. They may not be the most obvious, or the most popular choices that many would have on their list, but they are fantastic pieces that should be considered. Happy collecting, and I hope that you find your Holy (Watch) Grail.

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IWC Expands Their Portugieser Automatic 40 Line With A New Salmon Coloured Dial https://www.watchadvice.com.au/12623/iwc-expands-their-portugieser-automatic-40-line-with-a-new-salmon-coloured-dial/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/12623/iwc-expands-their-portugieser-automatic-40-line-with-a-new-salmon-coloured-dial/#respond Tue, 14 Feb 2023 23:26:56 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=12623 Outside of their Pilot’s Watch, the Portugieser is arguably IWC’s next most iconic model line. And now, they have added a very striking sunray finished Salmon dial to their Portugieser Automatic 40 collection, and it’s good!

Hot off the heels of the their Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Black Dial launched last month (if you missed it, read about it here), IWC launches a new sunray Salmon dial Portugieser Automatic 40. But, before we get into the new reference IW358313, lets take a small trip back in time. In the late 1930s, IWC’s Reference 325 established a classic design style which has run as a common thread through the history of the Portugieser family ever since. It features a clearly organised and open dial, a characteristic minute’s scale, and small seconds at 6 o’clock.

One of the first Portugieser wristwatches sold in 1939 to a Ukrainian watch wholesaler, L. Schwarcz in Odessa. Image courtesy of IWC Archives

This original design was based on a pocket watch design that IWC developed in order to meet the demands of the style and trends of that time. Looking at some of these pocket watches, and their wrist watch cousins, you can clearly see the classic design cues the modern Portugieser takes its lead from. Fast forward to today, and we have the new Portugieser Automatic 40 Ref IW358313.

Classic design cues from the 30s in the new Salmon dial for 2023

The Salmon dial IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 features a stainless-steel case as well as rhodium-plated hands and appliqué indices and numerals. The big difference is its striking salmon-coloured sunray finished dial. Thanks to the pared-back Portugieser design, the beautiful colour is displayed in all its glory. Paired with a black alligator strap with butterfly clasp, it perfectly complements this as a dress watch, or something you could quite easily wear casually at Sunday lunch.

Showcasing the sunray finished dial

The new model is powered by the IWC-manufactured 82200 calibre with a 60 hr power reserve. This robust movement features a self winding system developed in the 1950s by IWC’s former Technical Director, Albert Pellaton. Having a bi-directional rotor to power the 82200 calibre, it efficiently builds up a power reserve of 60 hours. In addition, components like the heart-shaped cam or the clicks are made of virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic. This translates to less wear, more time between services, more dollars in your pocket!

The Calibre 82200 on display via the display case back

The Portugieser Automatic 40 will first be available exclusively in UAE as of February and then available worldwide as of April through IWC boutiques, authorised retail partners, or online at IWC.com. The piece is eligible for registration under the My IWC care program, benefitting from a 6-year extension to the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty.

Reference: IW358313

Specifications

Case: 40mm diameter, 12.3mm thick
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Dial: Sunray finished in Salmon
Crystal: Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Water resistance: 30 Meters (3 BAR)
Movement: IWC-manufactured 82200 self-winding movement, pivoting on 31 Jewels at 28,800 VPH (4Hz)
Power reserve: 60 Hours
Bracelet/Strap: Black leather strap with butterfly folding clasp
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD 11,100
Availability: Available from April online at iwc.com, IWC Boutiques and selected Authorised Dealers.

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