Intimate boutique experiences are rare these days, with many brands reserving these for their clientele. So unless you’ve bought a watch from them, the chances to get up close and hands on with exclusive and limited pieces are few and far between. Jaeger-LeCoultre however are approaching how they let both customers and non-customers interact with their brand a little differently. They want more people to be able to experience their brand, the watches and the history behind them.

Earlier this year, the Maison brought their 1931 Nomadic Café to Sydney and Melbourne, giving the public a little taste of Swiss hospitality, bringing a small part of the Vallée de Joux to Australia. If you missed this, you can read all about it in our coverage here, and our interview with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Country Manager, Justin Devaux here.

This was an indication on how Jaeger-LeCoultre is approaching its brand in Australia. And now, they’ve another activation, The Sound Maker, this time focusing on their chiming time pieces, many of which are heritage pieces and have historical relevance, and the others, some very exclusive and rare pieces from their current High Watchmaking catalogue.

Reserve your spot here for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Sound Maker Exhibition Sydney

Sounds marking the time is not a new thing. For more than 600 years, the passing hours have been marked by sound, with people all over Europe organising their daily routines according to the chimes of the turret clocks on village churches and town halls. In fact the word clock itself is derived from “cloche”, the Old French word for bell (which can in turn be traced back to the Latin “clocca” – the sound of a chime).

Chiming timepieces originated through the collision of two worlds. The watchmakers who were constantly innovating and designing more and more complications for their watches, and the wealthy clients, who wanted to have something unique and showed they had wealth and were connoisseurs.

It was during this time where Jaeger-LeCoultre’s founder Antoine LeCoultre played a key role, not just as a watchmaker, but as the inventor of machines that could measure and cut components more accurately and on a smaller scale than ever before. As a result, the Vallée de Joux became celebrated for producing both chiming watches and music boxes of ever-greater complexity, smaller in size and with more beautiful sounds.

Since producing its first minute repeater in 1870, Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed more than 200 chiming watch calibres, producing some 100 minute repeaters before the year 1900. Not only this, but up until the mid 20^th Century, Jaeger-LeCoultre also produced chiming mechanisms for many other high end brands at the time.

The Sound Maker exhibition which is currently running in Melbourne until the 14^th, and then in Sydney from the 22^nd to the 31^st of August (grab your spot here) is a celebration of the brand’s rich history with sound devices. Jaeger-LeCoultre has brought some amazing pieces to Australia from it’s home in Switzerland, and not all are watches.

There is a beautiful music box from the 1820’s, fitted with a LeCoultre ‘Peigne’ mechanism and set in a finely decorated tortoise-shell box. Interestingly, before Antoine LeCoultre turned to watchmaking, he and his father invented a new type of ‘keyboard’ for mechanical music boxes.

Cut from a single piece of metal and shaped like a comb (peigne in French), it improved the quality of the sound, and prevented the instrument from detuning. Variations of this device became standard for almost all music boxes.

They also have some beautifully decorated chiming pocket watches from the late 1800’s through to the middle of last century, like the one pictured below which features a pair of jacquemarts (animated figures) who strike two bells simultaneously. This particular piece dates back to circa 1894 and is decorated with enamelling and engraving, demonstrating great artistic flair and attention to detail.

If vintage historical or heritage pieces are not your thing, then there are plenty of current production pieces to see – most of which are exclusive and very limited in number given the level of craftsmanship and detail that goes into each – some taking up to a year to be produced due to the skillset involved in both the artisanal decorating and movement assembly and finishing.

Whilst you can go into the boutique to see these heritage models and current exclusive pieces on display, the best way to experience The Sound Maker is by booking a spot for the full experience. This way you’re able to see some of these pieces up close and personal, see the pieces in action and hear the chiming sounds. Plus you have your own intimate 1 hour experience with the staff at the Jaeger-LeCoultre boutique.

Whilst the Melbourne Sound Maker experiences are all booked out – there are still some spots available for the Sydney exhibit, which if you are quick, can register via the following link: Jaeger-LeCoultre Sound Maker Boutique Exhibition Sydney

Watch Advice was lucky enough to get an exclusive first look last week in Melbourne prior to opening to the public, and the below video is just a little sneak peak of what is currently being displayed at The Sound Maker Exhibition in Melbourne, and what will be on display in Sydney from the 22nd.

The Sound Maker is a free event, and spots are filling up fast, so if you’re a watch lover, or are just curious to see these beautiful pieces, then jump on the registration link below and head into the King Street Boutique to see it for yourself!

Melbourne will be running until the 14th August with all 1 hour spots filled, but all piece are on display to view. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Sound Maker Boutique Exhibition Sydney starts on the 22nd Of August and runs through to the 31st August. Spots are filling fast, so jump on the registration site to get your spot!

Justin Devaux is like most of us, a watch collector and enthusiast. He just happens to hold the enviable position of Country Manager Australia and New Zealand for Jaeger-LeCoultre. Hailing from France, now residing in Sydney, he is the driving force behind the brand in Australia. With the 1931 Nomadic Cafe hitting our shores after touring around the world, we caught up with him last week down at Circular Quay, on the iconic Sydney Harbour where the Cafe popped up for it’s first week in Sydney. Here’s what he had to say…

You can catch the Jaeger-LeCoultre 1931 Nomadic Café in Sydney’s Martin Place until Thursday May 11th. In case you aren’t able to get down, or missed it last week down at Circular Quay, check out our write up on it here.

Jager-LeCoultre is inviting everyone down to discover and experience the highly successful 1931 Café in Sydney. If you’re a fan of the brand, or follow them on social media, you may have seen the nomadic 1931 Café pop up in other locations across the globe, such as New York, Singapore, London and Melbourne most recently to name a few. Jaeger-LeCoultre have created a unique experience which will allow people people to get a little more up close and personal with the brand, learn a little more about it’s history and heritage whilst enjoying a complimentary drink, some Swiss Chocolate and taking in the views of Sydney Harbour (May 5-7) or taking a break from the hustle in Martin Place (May 9-11)

Jaeger-LeCoultre have made it their mission to bring a little of themselves and the Vallée de Joux to Sydney via their art deco themed pop up instillation, which is designed to bring to life some old world charm that harks back to the year of 1931, the birth year of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s iconic Reverso timepiece. Whilst there, guests can relax a little, watch the passing crowd and immerse themselves in the history of Jaeger-LeCoultre from the comfort of the terrace, and do some fantastic people watching as well!

Playing a central part to the 1931 Café is the new 1931 Alphabet by Alex Trochut. It is a strongly modern addition to the Maison’s visual identity, and in a sharp and contemporary take on Art Deco, each letter has a boldly sculptural quality and a strong sense of visual depth, while also conveying a sense of dynamism and movement. This partnership with the artist is all part of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s effort to explore and extend the dialogue that exists between horology and art through their ‘Made of Makers’ programme – something that permeates throughout their collections of timepieces. More on this can be found here.

Watch Advice was lucky enough to get a first sneak peak at the 1931 Café just prior to opening, and we we’re impressed with the little details that Jaeger-LeCoultre have gone to in an effort to give guests a small feel of the Maison’s home. As we are heading into cooler months now, the beverage selection should hit the spot with locals, specifically the speciality drinks that are designed to transport guests to the Vallée de Joux with the taste Switzerland. I for one will be trying the Vallée de Joux Hot Chocolate with shaved Swiss Chocolate!

In addition to the Café, guests are encouraged to stop by the News Stand to see a little bit of what Jaeger-LeCoultre is all about. On display are some great examples of the engraving and craftmanship, and the tools that Jaeger-LeCoultre artisans use to decorate the backs of the Reverso watches. When you see the tools and the engravings the create, you will have a new found appreciation for the work and effort that goes into just the basic of designs.

For those that are wanting to learn more about the brand, Jaeger-LeCoultre have printed copies of “The Reverso” Newspaper, where you can read about the origins of Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Reverso watch and how Jaeger-LeCoultre is continuing its pursuit of excellence in watchmaking. Grab one before you sit down for a coffee, or as you’re heading off, as there are some fascinating articles in it, and you may want to take the time read it through. I highly encourage it.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre 1931 Café is open from 8am – 5pm Friday, Saturday and Sunday (May 5-7) down at Circular Quay, near the Overseas Passenger terminal and right in front of the Museum of Contemporary Art. It will then move to Martin Place, and open Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday (May 9-11).

For those wanting to view the watches and new Novelties from Watches and Wonders, then head to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s boutique in the Sydney CBD located at Shop 4/84 King St, Sydney.

I’ll be honest here. Even with all the watches I’ve tried on and owned over the years, I’ve never owned a square or rectangular watch, nor had I tried one on for longer than 2 minutes in a boutique or dealer. So when Jaeger-LeCoultre offered two of their new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds to wear around for a week, I jumped at the chance to test out this icon of the watch world.

Jaeger-LeCoultre launched their new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds at Watches and Wonders last month in four dial/colour variants – three in pink gold with black, burgundy and silver dials, and a steel with silver opaline dial. In case you missed it, you can read about it here. All are stunning examples of their heritage and as the name suggests, a Tribute to the originals from 1931. I had the pleasure of going hands on with the steel variant with silver opaline dial, and the pink gold variant with the classic black dial, both with the Fagliano Collection canvas-and-calf straps to match. Let’s jump in.

Introducing Jaeger-LeCoultre’s New Variations Of The Reverso Tribute Small Seconds

The Design

The design is classic Reverso. This year, they’ve focused on The Golden Ratio (the mystical number 1.618 which governs beauty) to bring to life the beauty of symmetry and proportions within the design. This is clear when looking at the overall aesthetics of the case and dial – clean, easy to read, proportional and balanced.

Putting the colour variants aside for a moment, Jaeger-LeCoultre have created the dials, including the black with a subtle sunburst effect, which works well in both artificial and natural light.

This sunburst effect compliments the stunning sun-ray design within the case. When you flip the watch over, it reveals the rays, and catches the light, and when looking down the arm (such as the images below) you can see it come to life. My preference was the gold from this aspect. The way the gold catches the light it shows off the striations in such a way that the steel case just can’t.

Jaeger-LeCoultre have kept the dial layout clean. With the introduction of the small seconds sub-dial, you need a dial that can both read well, and not lose the balance, or upset the layout too much, which this does. At a glance, I was able to cehck the time quickly and not have to look twice, or for long.

The minute track around the edge of the dial is a nice touch, adding just a enough embellishment to an otherwise minimalist dial. I feel that Jaeger-LeCoultre has struck a good balance here. The grooving on the case which hugs the top and bottom of the dial helps to accentuate the dial and its features, whilst giving the watch that vintage, art deco look.

Whilst Jaeger-LeCoultre call the silver dial, Silver Opaline, to me it’s very much a white dial. But that is ok as it looks great when paired with a dark suit, and the white dial offsets the dark black and charcoal coloured strap nicely. The sun-burst effect on the white doesn’t come through as well, unless out in full sun, but when under normal indoor lights, it does have a great looking enamel feel to it, and I would say, almost glossy which I came to love.

How It Wears

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds wears very well. At 45.6mm x 27.4mm it sits nicely on my wrist which is around 17.5cms in circumference. When you think of a traditional circular watch, let’s say a 40mm or a 41mm, having a lug to lug diameter of 45cm would make it a smaller wearing watch, which a dress watch should be. Interestingly, Jaeger-LeCoultre have managed to make the pink gold version a little slimmer, measuring just 7.56mm thick, where as the steel comes in at 8.5mm thick. Either way, these are nice and slim, and will fit under a shirt cuff easily.

Both watches had the Fagliano Collection canvas-and-calf straps on them. These give the watches a less formal look with the combination of leather and canvas, however lets face it, these are Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso’s – formal is in their DNA! Being canvas, the straps are stiff when first putting the watches on, and as they are rectangular watches, takes some time to break in and mould to the wrist. Whilst it does, you will have to play around with it a bit to get the watch to sit flush or comfortable against the wrist.

Once broken in, it does wear well, and sits nicely. Being a compact case with a flat back, the comfort levels are pretty good and easy to wear across the whole day should you choose to.

Behind The Dial

Jaeger-LeCoultre have equipped the new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds with their manual wind Calibre 822. With 108 components, and designed specifically to fit the rectangular case of the Reverso, this mechanically elegant and well-proven movement offers a power reserve of 42 hours. Whilst the calibre and its components are finely finished and decorated, it is hidden via the solid case back, but images provided showcase the level of detail and finishing Jaeger-LeCoultre go to, even when their movements are not on display.

Beating at 3hz and pivoting on 19 jewels, the movement showcases the Cotes de Geneve across the bridges, and underneath you can catch glimpses of the circular graining. Its a striking movement and just knowing that it’s under the case, ticking away is enough for me.

Final Thoughts

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds is a fitting tribute to the Reverso of 1931, and pays homage to it nicely. These are elegant watches, designed for a more formal time. For me, if I were to wear a suit to work each day, or had a reason to dress up often, then I think the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso would find its way into my collection and onto my wrist. However, if your attire is generally more casual, then like me, I think you would find it out of place.

The pricing however is in my opinion slightly out – at over $35,000 for the pink gold, which is $20,000 more than the steel variant, it’s on the steep side. A Reverso Classic in pink gold (REF. Q2542540) will set you back $25,300, and whilst the small seconds is absent, you’re still getting a great looking dress watch from the brand, with the same movement. Alternatively, the Duoface variant (REF. Q3842520) gives you 2 options of dials, which is better bang for buck at the same price point.

Setting this sentiment aside, these are a great option for those that want a beautifully crafted dress watch with the added benefit of having something to interact with on their wrist. The flipping function is great, and I did find myself playing with it when sitting at a café, perfect for those that need keep themselves occupied in those boring boardroom meetings!

As Jaeger-LeCoultre have kept the back of the case clean, it’s perfect for engraving or putting your own design on it. This is one aspect that sets Jaeger-LeCoultre apart – they encourage that personalisation to make it your own, and potentially a family heirloom that can be passed down. And this is to me is what watch collecting and owning is about – enjoyment, which the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds will give you a lot of.

Reference: Pink gold/black dial: Q713257J; Steel/Opaline Q713842J

Specifications

• Case: 18 Carat Pink Gold / Steel
• Dimensions: 45.6 x 27.4 mm; Thickness: 7.56mm (Pink Gold) / 8.5mm (Steel)
• Calibre: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822
• Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
• Power reserve: 42 hours
• Water resistance: 30 m
• Dial: Black sunray / Silver Opaline
• Caseback: Closed
• Strap: Fagliano Collection interchangeable calf-leather-and-canvas and all-calf-leather (Pink gold/black), Fagliano Collection interchangeable calf-leather-and-canvas strap (Steel/Silver)

Availability: Available now through all Authorised Dealers, Jaeger-LeCoultre Boutiques and online at jaeger-lecoultre.com

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: $35,600 (Pink Gold) / $15,700 (Steel)

Well, maybe not dead, but its popularity has certainly waned over the last few years. Admittedly, I’ve never really been a dress watch type of guy. I’ve always preferred the sports watches over anything else. Maybe because my lifestyle in Queensland is more outdoors and casual, but even before I lived here, back in Sydney I gravitated towards the steel sports watches. I assume it’s mostly because back in the early 2000’s many successful people I knew wore Rolexes, Omega’s, Breitling’s and Panerai’s, and this coupled with movie characters and advertising of people I looked up to, wore the same. And who says ads don’t work?

Putting this aside, the last few years has seen a definite trend towards sports watches, and away from dress watches. COVID has definitely played a part in this – with many people working from home and not the office. Prior to this, if you worked in a corporate environment with a suit, a dress watch made complete sense. All of a sudden, you’re at home in T-shirts and shorts, or whatever was the most comfortable to sit for hours on end at your kitchen table, lounge, outdoor entertaining area, or really where ever. A dress watch here didn’t make sense anymore. Now we’re out of COVID, and life seems to be back to a relative normal, and people are back in the office (at least part of the week), we should be seeing dress watches more right? It appears it’s not so much the case.

Changing Trends

Awards shows are always a good gauge on fashion trends, and watches, like it or not, are part of modern day fashion. And there certainly is a trend to see guys in suits sporting steel sports, or precious metal sports watches, not the typical understated watch on a nice leather strap, 40mm and under. You now see AP, Rolex, Patek, and even most recently, Dwayne Johnson rocking a TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 for the Academy Awards as a poetic nod to the fake TAG he wore when he was broke in his “7 Bucks” days, a departure from his standard go to of AP or Panerai in precious metal. But again, this proves my point, these are not dress watches either, albeit they are slightly more dressy than an Aquaracer!

Speaking to a few people in the know, they tend to agree. Dress watch sales have been in decline. Sports watches are taking their place, and for some brands, models that are hybrid dress/sports with interchangeable straps are becoming more popular. And this makes sense. Why spend good money on a dress watch that you may only wear every now and then (assuming you’re not in a suit and tie all day) when you can purchase a watch that is versatile and with the change of a strap, you can change the look? I know I’m gravitating towards this more and more.

The other theory I had was that people are just more casual these days. People want to be comfortable and this is extending into all areas of their lives. This can be seen across all areas of the luxury market. Luxury street wear is now more popular than ever, and replacing more formal attire in this sector.

Casual Luxury

An article from the New York Times in August of 2021 (which you can read here) highlighted this perfectly. Wall Street, the bastion of wealth and also formality had dressed down! The Suits were no longer in suits. If this wasn’t a sign I don’t know what was. And this trend permeated across the globe. Australia was not immune and I would suggest, was adopted a lot quicker than in other countries.

Luxury had to follow. Now I don’t know where I heard the term, or maybe I just came up with it myself, but “Casual Luxury” is now in vogue. LV back packs, Hugo Boss sneakers, Gucci bomber jackets and of course, watches. And now, it seems that almost anything goes. An IWC Pilot 41 Chronograph with a suit? Sure! Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time on rubber for a nice dinner out? Yep! And Rolex, AP and Patek Philippe are go to pieces for any occasion, and that is part of the appeal of a luxury sports watch. Dress a Submariner, Royal Oak or Nautilus up or down. To be honest, I know I would.

The data would also suggest this is the case as well. Just take a look at the latest Morgan Stanley figures for the Swiss Watch industry in 2022. Brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre who are predominantly known for their dress watches have slid from their position at #10 in 2017 to #14 in 2022, Bulgari, who up until recent years focused on dress watches, have slid from #15 in 2017 to out of the Top 20 in 2022. And it’s no surprise that Chopard, who are known for their luxury jewellery and watches of a more dressy and formal nature have doubled down on their sports watch range, most notably with the hit that is the Alpine Eagle – a great sports watch that is easily dressed up or down.

The Dress Watch Dilemma

I have had the pleasure of trying on and testing numerous dress watches over the past year or so, and some I loved, some not so much. My favourite of late was the Glashuette Original PanoMaticLuna. A brilliant dress watch, finished superbly and a great, and more affordable alternative to the A Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Moonshpase. I’d buy this in a heartbeat. If I only had the occasion to wear it! And these days, I don’t go to too many formal occasions, and for any watch related event, I’m normally wearing something from the brand or if not, and not too formal (most event’s aren’t too formal), my Zenith on the steel bracelet fits the bill.

Continuing on this thought path, I would now tend to look for a watch that I can wear often, if not everyday. I went to a formal event this weekend actually, and was lent a good friend’s Rolex Daytona in Rose Gold on Oysterflex. This was perfect for the event, looked the part and you feel a million dollars wearing it. And this is his almost everyday watch. Why? because it dresses up just as well as it dresses down. And this is what I’m now considering for my next purchase. A piece that is versatile, and can be either dressed up, or down. Not a big watch, most probably 40mm and not too thick, and preferably with the ability to change the strap or bracelet easily. A watch that can go from the boardroom to the beach to black tie. Am I asking too much?

Final Thoughts

But this does bring me back to the original question. Is the dress watch dead? Maybe for now, with the time we’re living in and the trends that are around today it is. Or maybe it’s just hibernating, waiting to be woken up when times have changed. And this is what fashion does. It ebbs and flows, it’s cyclical. Trends comes and go, and they come back around again. So maybe in the not too distant future, we’ll all be dressing up again, heading to work in suits and ties, when going out or travelling, putting on our Sunday best. But for now, my Sunday best is a pair of shorts and a Polo shirt, and on my wrist is a sports watch. And I’m perfectly ok with this!

We always love to know what you think. Drop a comment in the comments section below and tell us if you agree or not? We’d love to hear your thoughts.

Each year, the watch world waits to see what wonders come out of the industry’s premier trade show. Some years we see brilliance, and others years not so much. I feel that this year was a good year for the watch world, and we saw some really great pieces launched, some cool novelties and some brands just did some nice and timely updates to their core models. And from all reports, it seems that most commentators felt the same. So without further ado, here are my top 12 picks.

Piaget’s Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

Whilst Piaget added two new Perpetual Calendar models to their Polo line, my pick was the Rose gold and green. It just looks great, and builds on their release from earlier in year. At 8.65mm, it’s thin, and a the movement is stunning and complex. which can be seen through there caseback.

The fact that Piaget has also given it the quick change SingleTouch system, to swap out the green alligator or rubber strap just adds to this allowing you change the look, depending on your mood. At AUD $116,000, it’s not cheap, but you get a lot of watch for this!

You can read all about it here.

Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

Panerai went back to their roots this year, and told us their Storia Leggendaria. With this, bringing us the new Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 days) in hand finished eSteel.

Whilst not the most techically impressive, although it is an 8-day manual wind, so this is pretty decent, these are cool looking, and do hark back to their original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Also, each model is hand finished to give it the distressed look, so essentially, all unique!

Check out our write up about it here

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

Jaeger-LeCoultre focused on their Reverso Tribute line this year, and some of their models was absolutely fantastic. One of which was their Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which gives you 2 great watches in one!

Whilst each model looked stunning, my pic was the Pink Gold variant. The way the details contrast on the chronograph face, along with the “floating” look of the dial and bottom register are second to none!

For more on this, click here.

Hermes H08 In Rose Gold & Titanium

The Hermes H08 in Rose Gold and Titanium was a surprise for me. I’m not normally a fan of Hermes watches, but this model, in this combination jut works, and looks both casual, and just a little bit formal – it’s a paradox!

Hermes have used a good mix of Rose gold, titanium and black ceramic, and paired with the black rubber strap and the multi-faceted dial, all works together and is something a little different to the norm.

You can check out our write up on it here

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN “Oceana”

I’m a sucker for a good pilot’s watch, and need to add one back into the collection. And the new IWC Pilot’s Chrono 41mm in Oceana Blue is a hot contender. Although, speaking to the IWC boutique, there’s not a lot of detail on when this will be in, so I guess I’ll have to wait.

IWC have done some great releases in coloured ceramic and this is just the next to come out, and with the denim strap, looks like the perfect casual summer watch. Blending this with IWC’s DNA in pilots watches and you’ve a great piece.

Fly over to our write up on it here

Tudor Black Bay 41 Burgundy Dial

Tudor are a little more “edgy” than their big sister, but sometimes, a nice update is all you need. The Tudor Black Bay 41 with the burgundy dial was just this. Nothing ground-breaking, but a slimmer case, refined details on the dial and a choice now of three different bracelet/strap options with their T-Fit micro adjust.

Tudor have also made the movement just that little bit better – now Master Chronometer certified to 0/+5s per day and keeping the 70 hour power reserve. What more could you ask for?

For more details, check it out here

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm XPS

Chopard’s new Alpine Eagle in Lucent Steel and a stunning Monte Rosa pink dial and small seconds was one of those watches where Chopard took an already good watch and made it better! The addition of the small seconds is a nice touch, and the dial is just a stunning colour.

In this model, you now the calibre L.U.C 96.40-L movement, meaning the watch has slimmed down to just 8mm thick and the movement is beautiful with an 18k micro rotor powering it.

You can find out more about this model here

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

The Odysseus Chronograph was one of the more truly unique releases at this years event, and it was a first for the brand, having never done an automatic chronograph before now.

One of the most interesting aspects of the Odysseus Chronograph is the dial configuration using the outer track and the central seconds and minutes hands to tell the elapsed time, rather than sub dials. Plus the re-set to zero function is pretty cool, and something not seen before.

You can read all about it here

Rolex Yacht-Master Titanium

Rolex aren’t normally known for their innovative releases, but this year, they’ve come out with a first for The Crown – a sports watch in Titanium in the form of the Yacht-Master in 42mm. This is a great move from Rolex, adding another variant to the Yacht-Master line, and giving people a watch that is less dressy than the standard 40mm models, and a completely different look to the precious metal models.

It’s a great stealthy looking sports watch, and due to the titanium, is light and durable and fit for the purpose it was designed for, as we saw when Sir Ben Ainslie wore the prototype a couple of years back – leaving the world waiting for its release!

Check out my thoughts on the Yacht-Master Ti here

Grand Seiko Tentagraph

Grand Seiko have never done a fully mechanical chronograph before, having limited this complication to their spring drive models. But this year, they released a fairly under the radar chronograph that is fully mechanical. However, look at the details and its more impressive than it would initially seem.

A Ten beats per seconds chronograph, accurate to -3/+5s per day, tested over 20 days, housed in an all titanium case and finished to the standards that you expect from Grand Seiko. Its all in the small details, and this is what makes this watch a sleeper!

To check out the full write up, click here

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X

This was probably the craziest watch release this year (I cold be wrong), but you’d expect nothing less from Roger Dubuis. The Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X is designed in the theme of the new limited edition 50th anniversary Lamborghini Countach LPI 800-4. Hence the name.

Lamborghini design cues are all over this watch, from the engine case between the 90° V-Shape Double Flying Tourbillon, to the way the case looks like the wheels and tyres. It’s a serious piece of kit, to go with a serious car. But not for us mere mortals at $1,210,000 and limited to 8 pieces, I won’t be lining up anytime soon!

Check out the full write up and pics here

Bell & Ross Diver White Bronze

This may not have been on many people’s top 12, but I’ve included it for this reason. Bell & Ross have created a driver with a difference, and whilst not vintage in style, it’s got vintage style cues that just work with the overall design aesthetic.

The bronze case, paired with the opaline dial and brown strap give it a unique look, and the fact that it is ISO-6425 complied means it’s a true divers watch. It may not be for everyone, but that in my eyes isn’t a bad thing, as it means you probably won’t see many in the wild, and that’s a talking point in my mind!

Check out our coverage of it here

Well that’s it for another year of Watches and Wonders. It was a great show this year, and there were some brilliant releases, and not so brilliant releases. Whilst I couldn’t cover all of the releases here (it wouldn’t be a top 12 if I could!), you can check out all of the brands and models covered at Watches and Wonder 2023 here.

As the saying goes, “Why mess with a classic?” Jaeger-LeCoultre’s answer to this could be along the lines of, “Because we can” or more probably, “Because we wanted to make it better!” With the introduction of a chronograph to the Reverso Tribute collection, Jaeger-LeCoultre have improved on the classic Reverso, keeping the front clean and minimalistic, yet, turning the face over, revealing a beautifully skeletonised dial for the chronograph functions.

The Reverso Tribute Chronograph revisits and reinvents the ground-breaking Reverso Chronographe of 1996. The movement of the 1996 Reverso Chronograph, Calibre 829, was not only the first shaped chronograph movement in a rectangular case for Jaeger-LeCoultre but also the first manually-wound integrated chronograph to be developed from scratch in the post-quartz era.

Today, the Reverso Tribute Chronograph houses the the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 860, a fully integrated hand-wound chronograph movement. The Calibre 860 is a fully in-house movement, running at 28,800 vph / 4Hz and has a 52 hour power reserve. Jaeger-LeCoultre has managed to create this movement in a rectangular shape, to fit perfectly into the case and incorporates a column wheel chronograph with a horizontal clutch, which was chosen over the more familiar vertical clutch to reduce the overall thickness of the movement.

In a contradiction to conventional circular chronographs, the Reverso Tribute Chronograph must act in both forward and reverse, meaning that whilst the time is running in one direction on the front face, when flipped over must run in the opposite direction at the same time. Not an easy feat, yet Jaeger-LeCoultre has managed to perfect this in a movement that sits in the 12mm case.

Aesthetics wise, the Reverso Tribute Chronograph stays true to the Reverso style. On the front, you have a beautiful sun-brushed blue dial on the steel variant, and black on the pink gold. Both exhibit the baton style applied indices, Dauphine hands and chemin de fer minutes track that is typically Jaeger-LeCoultre – clean, elegant, classic.

Flipping the face over, and this all changes. Jaeger-LecCoultre have designed a magnificent looking chronograph face, complete with second time display (hours and minutes), timing chronograph function and a retrograde 30 minute counter in an arc at the bottom of the dial. This all sits on a skeletonised dial, complete with Côtes de Genève. The chronograph seconds and minute tracks are highlighted in black to maximise legibility. Blue screws are matched by the blue of the chronograph hands, underlining the perfect integration of movement and decoration. Enhancing the sense of visual depth, the indications for the second time display – faceted baton indexes and chemin de fer minutes track – appear to be floating above the calibre.

To further enhance the look of each model, two Fagliano straps are offered with each watch, a signature of the Reverso Tribute line. These feature an interchangeable buckle for easy strap changes and come in canvas-and-leather and all-leather options. Designed by the celebrated Argentinian polo bootmaker Casa Fagliano, they offer a sense of sophistication while reconnecting the Reverso to its roots in the world of polo.

Reference: Pink Gold Q389257J; Steel Q389848J

Specifications

• Case: 18 Carat Pink Gold / Steel
• Dimensions: 49.4 x 29.9 mm x 11.14 mm thick
• Calibre: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 860
• Functions: Hours and minutes on both dials, Chronograph with retrograde 30-minute counter
• Power reserve: 52 hours
• Water resistance: 30 m
• Front Dial: Black / Blue-Grey sunray brushed finished
• Back Dial: Skeletonised
• Strap: Black (Pink Gold) and Blue-Grey (Steel) Fagliano Collection calf leather and canvas strap and additional calf leather strap

Availability: Available now through all Authorised Dealers, Jaeger-LeCoultre Boutiques and online at jaeger-lecoultre.com

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: $35,600 (Pink Gold) / $15,700 (Steel)

Jaeger-LeCoutltre has presented the Reverso Tribute Small Seconds with sunray-brushed dials in four variations. In a newly redesigned pink gold case comes three colour variations: A black dial – paying homage to the black dials of the original 1931 Reverso; a burgundy lacquer dial complements the glowing richness of pink gold; and a silver dial – closely recalling the silver dial of the first-generation Reverso. The black and burgundy dials are paired with two Fagliano Collection straps in complementary colours – one strap in the signature canvas-and-calf combination and the other in all calf. The silver dial is paired with a Fagliano Collection canvas-and-calf strap and an additional black alligator strap. Also new for 2023, a silver opaline dial with black nickel finished hands and indexes adds a dynamic and contemporary feel to the steel Reverso Tribute case.

Watch Advice had the privilege of a first hands-on look with the Steel and silver opaline dial variant and pink gold black dial variant, both of which are very different in their aesthetics, but both finished to the standard you would come to expect from Jaeger-LeCoultre. One aspect that is noticeable in the 2023 Pink Gold is the slimness of the case, as Jaeger-LeCoultre has trimmed about 1mm off the thickness, and now comes in at 7.56mm thick – quite the feat when you think about the mechanics that go into producing the Reverso Case.

The new 2023 dials all feature applied indices with a double index at 12 O’clock. The indices are designed to mirror the hour and minute hands, or you could argue the opposite. This design pairs nicely with the small seconds counter at 6 O’clock, which in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s words “provides a counterpoint to the linear geometry of the dial and case”.

Harmonising with the sunray brushing of the dial, a dramatic sunray pattern on the inside of the carrier is visible as the case is flipped over. This in our opinion is almost the star of the 2023 Reverso Tribute. Jaeger-LeCoultre has been able to design this pattern with the wearer in mind, given you something to admire and play with whilst on the wrist. More of this is our hands on review later in April.

The Reverso Tribute Small Seconds is powered by the manually wound mechanical movement, Calibre 822. With 108 components, this mechanically elegant and well-proven movement offers a power reserve of 42 hours. Whilst the calibre and its components are finely finished and decorated, we were not game to take off the case back to see, so we will just have to take Jaeger-LeCoultre’s word for it!

Reference: Pink gold/black: Q713257J; Pink gold/burgundy: Q713256J; Pink gold/silver: Q7132521; Steel/Silver Q713842J

Specifications

• Case: 18 Carat Pink Gold / Steel
• Dimensions: 45.6 x 27.4 mm; Thickness: 7.56mm (Pink Gold) / 8.5mm (Steel)
• Calibre: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822
• Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
• Power reserve: 42 hours
• Water resistance: 30 m
• Dial: Black sunray / Burgundy lacquer / Silver sunray / Silver Opaline
• Caseback: Closed
• Strap: Fagliano Collection interchangeable calf-leather-and-canvas and all-calf-leather (Pink gold/black; Pink gold/burgundy); Fagliano Collection interchangeable calf-leather-and-canvas strap and black alligator strap (Pink gold/silver); Fagliano Collection interchangeable calf-leather-and-canvas strap (Steel/Silver)

Availability: Available now through all Authorised Dealers, Jaeger-LeCoultre Boutiques and online at jaeger-lecoultre.com

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: $35,600 (Pink Gold Variants) / $15,700 (Steel)

Coinciding and celebrating 190 years of the Manufacture, Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced a program to allow collectors the ability to acquire some much sought-after and rare timepieces. This will be an ongoing program and, over time, allow for more vintage and neo-vintage pieces to add. These will all be fully restored and vetted by the expert team at Jaeger-LeCoultre to ensure both quality and prominence.

“With Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most emblematic timepieces being increasingly sought-after by collectors, we are delighted to introduce The Collectibles. Together with a new master reference book for our Maison’s most emblematic models of the 20th century, this new programme presents a unique opportunity to acquire a piece of the Manufacture’s history.”

Catherine Rénier, CEO – Jaeger-LeCoultre

The Collectibles will slowly build over time, with an ever-evolving selection of curated pieces available through jaeger-lecoultre.com as well as capsule collections that will be available and will also travel around the world. Among the first to be offered are fine examples of a Geophysics, a Memovox Parking, a Master Mariner Deep Sea and a Shark Deep Sea.

In addition to the watch, every Collectibles timepiece is presented with an extract from the Jaeger-LeCoultre archives, a new watch strap and a complimentary copy of The Collectibles coffee-table book. And when available, the original box and papers and the original strap or bracelet will be included. To make sure that every piece is authentic and in perfect working order, each piece offered through The Collectibles is thoroughly vetted by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s historical experts and fully serviced and restored by the specialised watchmakers of the Manufacture’s restoration workshop.

Jaeger-LeCoultre isn’t known as the Watchmaker’s Watchmaker for nothing. For every piece offered, JLC has its current ten experts on their restoration team meticulously go through the Manufacture’s archives and find the blueprint of every piece ever made, and in some cases, also find a stock of original spare components. If there is no component to hand, there is a stock of some 6,000 swages or stamps that they can use to make an identical component from scratch. This is something that totally unique, and very few manufacturers would even dream of doing this to keep the original authenticity of the watch and movement itself.

Because the Manufacture is fully integrated, the entire process can be carried out in-house. While the mechanical restoration may, in some cases, be significant, the intervention on the case and dial must be kept to a minimum since too much work would alter the historical nature of the piece for collectors; therefore, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Heritage team seeks watches that are as close as possible to their original condition.

“Being able to restore these remarkable timepieces and offer them once again is a nice tribute to our current environment, in which sustainability and second lives have come to the fore… It is fantastic to see 50- or 80-year-old pieces given a new life. For me, that symbolises the beauty of our world – of timeless and durable objects to be passed from one generation to the next.”

Catherine Rénier, CEO – Jaeger-LeCoultre

As each piece is offered with a coffee-table book, it’s only fitting that it covers the period from 1925 to 1974, surveying 17 of the most significant models produced by the Manufacture during this ‘golden age’ of 20th-century watchmaking. The book is a marvellous roll call of some of the ground-breaking innovations Jeager-LeCoultre has developed over those years, including timepieces such as the Reverso, Memovox, Futurematic and Geophysic. A full chapter is devoted to each of the 17 models, providing an encyclopaedic history and including essential data for collectors supplemented by detailed and informative photography and copies of historical documents from the Manufacture’s archives.

Whilst collectors have always been able to obtain and source information on these models from various places, this is the first time that such detailed information has been housed in one place, and all written by the experts from JLC itself. For collectors, this is truly a priceless addition to the watch itself, and one that I feel will sit pride of place in many collector’s loungerooms across the world.

Given Jaeger-LeCoultre’s undisputable contribution to watchmaking, The Collectibles book also provides watch history buffs a much broader understanding of modern watchmaking and how the mechanical watch has evolved over the past 50 years. To paint the picture for readers, The Collectibles book is peppered with cultural and contextual stories of how these watches were born, just how modern watchmaking has responded to change over the 20th Century and what impact this has had on The Manufacture.

Some of these great stories include the increasing freedom of women in the 1920s and how wrist-worn watches, along with radically new styles of dress, helped to showcase their liberation and freedom; in the 1930s, the Reverso – with its distinctive style, coloured dials and unisex appeal – epitomised the lifestyle of the newly fashionable ‘sporting gentleman’; as the 1950s brought an emphasis on technology and the emergence of the international businessman, Jaeger-LeCoultre responded with automatic movements and numerous useful functions – as seen in the Futurematic, Memovox and Geophysic.

Paradoxically, Jaeger-LeCoultre is looking to the future by looking into its past, something that perhaps we watch enthusiasts take for granted, as the past inevitably provides guidance to the future. This can be seen in many examples these days, with many brands offering ‘re-editions’ of vintage watches with new materials and updated mechanisms, or they are looking at vintage models and reimagining them for today’s collector. JLC has decided on a different approach to this, going back into its history and offering collectors a real piece of it – which is a great idea in my opinion. And with each timepiece being thoroughly vetted by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s experts and fully serviced and restored by the Manufacture’s in-house restoration workshop, it’s giving a second life to decades-old pieces, enabling these timeless and durable objects to be passed from one generation to the next!

1. Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 – RRP AUD 1050.00:

Why do we love this watch? This watch offers a lot for its price of AUD 1050.00. The case size of 40mm fits most wrists and comes in three honeycomb motif dial colours, white, black and blue (pictured above). Power reserve of 80 hours, which means this watch can be left alone over the weekend and come Monday, it will be ready to be worn without needing to wind it. The finishing of this watch is on par with some of the more expensive watches that cost ten times more. The single-link steel bracelet is comfortable to wear and produces an eye-catching shine. Tissot brought back an iconic 1970s design that will turn heads and is suitable for stylish dads with a busy lifestyle. Tissot offers two years international warranty on all of its watches. For more information, head over to Tissot.

2. Tudor Black Bay Pro – RRP from AUD 5010.00:

Released earlier in the year at Watches and Wonders, Black Bay Pro is an entirely new watch from the brand and became an instant hit among watch enthusiasts. The polished and satin-finished steel case (39mm in size) and riveted bracelet are made for everyday use. We like this watch for three reasons. 1. Great power reserve – at 70 hours, perfect for everyday use. 2. Dual timezone feature, which showcases two time zones simultaneously. 3. Rapid adjustment on the clasp, meaning on hot days, watch bracelet adjustment can be made on the go! Tudor Black Bay Pro is offered in three strap choices, a steel bracelet AUD 5430.00 (left), a Hybrid strap AUD 5010.00 (centre) and a Fabric strap AUD 5010.00 (right). Tudor offers five years warranty on all of their watches. Compact, sport and robust, this watch is great for adventurous dads. To find out more, head over to Tudor.

3. Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph 7741- RRP from AUD 5,695.00

Raymond Weil’s Freelancer collection was upgraded earlier in the year with the addition of Chronograph 7741. The latest improvements include a bigger case size of 43.5mm, a clean dial layout and a ceramic bezel with a tachymeter scale. The Tri-compax Chronograph is offered in a selection of dial configurations, and our favourite is the green (pictured above). Powered by the calibre RW5030, which generates a power reserve of 56hours and is showcased through an exhibition case-back. The freelancer 7741 combines classic and modern design cues to create a handsome timepiece suitable for a dad who loves his classics! Raymond Weil offers three years of international warranty on the freelancer models. For more information, visit Raymond Weil.

4. Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar- RRP from AUD 48,600.00:

First announced during 2022 Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar is one of the most beautifully executed perpetual calendars in the current market. The 42mm case (offered in steel and red gold) has a graduated blue lacquered dial with four counters that showcase the date, moon phase, date, month and year. This particular perpetual calendar does not need any manual adjustments on the counters till the year 2100.

Another feature we like in this model is the quick changing straps. You can change from a steel bracelet to a rubber strap within seconds. Powered by in-house calibre 868, which generates a power reserve of over 70 hours. Sporty and complicated, this watch is a perfect addition to a seasoned watch collector dad. Jaeger-LeCoultre offers eight years of warranty on all their watches. For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

5. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver – RRP AUD 9650.00

One of the most exciting releases from the brand in 2022 is the Aquaracer 1000 Super diver. Geared towards the professional divers, this timepiece is made for the deep waters. Grade 5 titanium case measuring 45mm and with a thickness of 15.75mm, the robust case is designed to withstand the pressures at 1000 meters below sea level, equipped with a helium valve to prevent damage upon decompression. The simple and highly legible dial comes alive at night. TAG Heuer teamed up with the swiss movement manufacturer to exclusively create the movement TH30-00 for the Superdiver, which produces a power reserve of 70 hours. The Superdiver comes with five years of international warranty. The Superdiver boasts sporty elegance and will be suitable for an adventurous and daring dad, particularly water lovers. For more information, visit TAG Heuer.

6. Breitling Navitimer B01 70th Anniversary – RRP from AUD 12090.00

Earlier this year, Breitling celebrated the 70th anniversary of the legendary Navitimer. With that, Breitling brought out their latest versions of the Navitimers. Offered in 46mm, 43mm and 41mm case sizes and vibrant dial choices, there is sure to be a model that will cater for every dad! Noticeable changes for the new Navitimers include the new in-house B01 movement with a power reserve of 70 hours (showcased on the caseback), the new AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association) wings logo replacing the old Breitling logo and new vibrant shades dials, notably the blue (pictured above) green and Copper. The watch can be worn with either bracelet or leather strap. A five-year warranty is offered on the in-house movement Breitling watches. The new Navitimer would be a great gift for the stylish and classy dad. For more information, visit Breitling.

7. Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date- RRP from AUD 4,470.00

Montblanc entered the diver watch category earlier in the year with their first ever diver – The 1858 Iced sea Automatic Date. Starting price of AUD 4470.00 for the 41mm steel case on the rubber strap is a great value for the price point. Three things we like about the new dive watch. 1. Quick change strap change system with fine adjustment system 2. The dial was inspired by the glaciers of the Montblanc massif and produced in an ancestral technique called “gratté-boisé”. 3. Unidirectional bi-colour Ceramic bezel that matches the dial. 1858 Iced sea Automatic date is offered in three dial variations, black, green and blue (pictured). Stylish from every angle, Montblanc’s first-ever diver watch is a great addition to any dad’s watch collection or his first-ever swiss watch. Montblanc offers two years of international warranty on all their watches. For more information, head over to Montblanc.