Longines was one of the first brands to pioneer a GMT function. They debuted a second time zone on a wrist watch back in 1925, helping ships convert local time to Universal World Time (UTC) or Zulu Time (hence the name) making timing and navigation easier. Since then, GMT’s have become one of the most sought after functions and complications on a watch. Understandable due to its ease of use and one of the more practical functions you can get on a watch.

The Longines HydroConquest has always been a great value option sports watch, ranging from smaller quartz options to the larger automatic variants. Its style cues are more classic than modern, but like all modern Longines, mix this with contemporary design and manufacturing. And now with a GMT function, are more versatile than ever.

The new HydroConquest GMT comes in a 41mm case, that measures 12.9mm thick, which for a 300m water resistant steel sports watch with a GMT function, is quite slim compared to other GMT steel sports on the market today. This is due to the new and exclusive to Longines GMT Calibre L844, which is a Self-winding mechanical movement beating at 25’200 vibrations per hour (3.5Hz), with a power reserve up to 72 hours.

Like all new Longines sports models, the L844 calibre is equipped with a silicon balance-spring and components in non-magnetic materials. This movement is ten times more resistant to magnetic fields than the ISO 764 benchmark standard, meaning that it will stand up perfectly to any magnetic fields your household appliances and devices can throw out.

The Longines HydroConquet GMT comes in four colour variants – black, blue, green and brown and all with a sunray finish. This gives you the option of a colour variant to suite your style and to add to this, you can opt to have the green and brown on matching NATO straps, or the black and blue variants on matching rubber straps. This makes these highly versatile sports watches, and all for under AUD $4,500

Each colour variant features a GMT hand that tells you the second time zone via the two-tone 24-hour scale on the outer dial track, which itself is broken into night and day indicated by the lighter or darker numerals, and the gilt or silvered polished hands and hour-markers are coated with Super-LumiNova®, making them easy to read in any circumstances. Added to the legibility, the markets are round at 6 and 9 o’clock and triangular at 12 o’clock.

A date window is at 3 o’clock, and depending on the model, is either colour-matched to the dial, or white. Green and Brown are matched due to the fauxtina lume, the black and blue are white to match the white lume on the dial markers and hands. This is the Longines design team being smart here, and not just going with one method or the other, like many brands that charge 10x the money do. Well done Longines.

The HydroConquest GMT is also distinguished by its new unidirectional notched ceramic bezel fitted with a luminescent capsule and a screw-in crown. The alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces add a sophistication and elegance to these new models, and as Longines have put the 24hr GMT time zone on the outer dial track, they’ve retained the graduated dive scale on the uni-directional bezel.

Longines have also given the new HydroConquest GMT a re-designed bracelet, making them more comfortable, and now featuring a double security folding clasp with micro adjustment, and this can also be found on the rubber strap options too, making these great alternatives to the steel and allowing for maximum comfort and fit.

Final Thoughts

Longines is one of those brands that is starting to punch above it’s weight. The Spirit line, and most recently the Spirit Zulu Time is one example of this, and now the new HydroConquest GMT gives watch lovers a great value alternative diver with GMT function.

The four colourways allow for versatility, and the NATO or rubber straps changes the look dramatically. If you’re after a more classic diver, the black and blue on steel will suit. Want more of an adventurous looking piece? The brown and green on NATO fit the part.

Whilst we’re yet to try these on and go hands on with them, on paper, and knowing what Longines are doing with their brand and watches, they look the goods and are a solid option for anyone wanting a sports steel diver or GMT – in this case, you can have both.

A full gallery is below the specifications so you can look at each variant up close.

References:

• Black – Steel (L3.790.4.56.6), Rubber (L3.790.4.56.9)
• Blue– Steel (L3.790.4.96.6), Rubber (L3.790.4.96.9)
• Green – Steel (L3.790.4.06.6), NATO (L3.790.4.06.2)
• Brown – Steel (L3.790.4.66.6), NATO (L3.790.4.66.2)

Specification:

• Case: 41mm, 12.9mm thick
• Case Material: Stainless Steel
• Dial: Black, Blue, Brown and Green with sunray finish with offset24 hour scale
• Crystal: Sapphire domed glass with multi-layered anti-reflective coating on both sides
• Water resistance: 300 m (10ATM)
• Movement: Longines exclusive self-winding movement, L844.5, with silicon balance-spring and magnetic resistant. 25,200 vph (3.5Hz), pivoting on 21 jewels
• Power reserve: 72 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel bracelet or rubber strap with double safety folding clasp and micro-adjustment system. (Black and Blue Variants) / Stainless steel bracelet or NATO strap with pin buckle made from recycled material (Brown and Green Variants)

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $4,400 on Steel or Rubber / AUD $4,225 on NATO

Availability: Available through Longines Boutiques, and at Longines.com

It’s one of the most common questions we hear in person, on forums, and in general conversation amongst watch collectors. “I’m Looking to spend up to a certain dollar amount on a watch – needs to be X, Y, Z, what should I get?” So for today, we’re focusing on what you should get if you were to spend up to $20,000 on a Chronograph – one of the more useful and common complications on a watch today.

And for $20,000, there are a lot of choices to sort through, from dress chronographs, to pilots chronographs, to diver chronographs. The list goes on. And we can say that if you’re just starting your search it can be daunting, but don’t worry, we’ve got five great choices here that will suit a range of budgets, and are some of the best chronographs you can buy (at retail) for under AUD $20,000.

Longines Avigation Bigeye Chronograph

Longines has a long history with Aviation navigation (Avigation), with their watches donning the wrists some of history’s most notable Aviators. A Chronograph was (and still is) key for aviators, and the Longines Bigeye Chronograph represents this history and functionality in a modern vintage inspired piece.

This watch is all about functionality. Large lumed numerals on the dial, the large minutes counter at 3 o’clock for ease of reading at a glance and 41mm in size, not too big or small allowing all the information to fit on the dial. It’s a good looking modern watch with that vintage style and the L688 Chronograph movement is a decent movement and good bang for buck.

Australian RRP: $4,700 on leather. Available at Longines.com

Raymond Weil Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph

We recently did a hands on review on this specific watch and were impressed with its looks, the design elements and functionality. Check it out here. We’ve picked this as the Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph is good value for money and is also limited to just 400 pieces, 10 in Australia.

The flyback functionality is great, the multifaceted dial looks amazing and at 42mm, is sized well and sits flush on the wrist. Plus, it’s not something that everyone will have, and the design is unique, so it’s not something you see often.

Australian RRP: $6,995. Available at Raymond-Weil.com

Bremont Supermarine Chronograph

Watch Advice had the pleasure of touring the new Bremont Boutique in Melbourne last week, and this model caught our eye. The Supermarine is a robust divers watch designed for purpose, and this piece has the added functionality of the GMT, making it a highly versatile sports watch.

At 43mm and 16mm thick, it’s a larger wearing watch, but this isn’t meant to be a dress watch. The rubber strap is comfortable a suited to whatever you throw at it, and the watch is pure fun on your wrist – perfect for that next travel adventure overseas.

Australian RRP: $9,300 on rubber. Available at Bremont.com

Omega Speedmaster ‘57

No Chronograph collection is complete without an Omega Speedmaster. But we’ve gone something a little different to the standard Moonwatch. The Omega Speedmaster ’57 pays tribute to the 1957 Speedmaster (predating the Moonwatch) and is a perfect 40.5mm in size. With an in-house co-axial hand-wound movement that has 60hrs power reserve, it’s also on the slimmer side too, making at a great sports watch that can be dressed up and down.

The Speedmaster is synonymous with timing, and the ’57 is a nod to this. Plus it has the added functionality of the date window at 6 o’clock, which the Moonwatch doesn’t have, adding a touch more functionality to the piece.

Australian RRP: $15,250 on steel. Available at Omegawatches.com

Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42

Breitling are making some seriously good watches these days under the leadership of Georges Kern and the Premier B25 Datora is one of the best looking dress chronographs in our opinion. The B25 refers to their in-house concept movement & its look is reminiscent of a Patek, with that beautiful Salmon dial working brilliantly with the tan alligator strap.

“Datora” was a term used by Breitling in the 1940s and refers to a complete calendar chronograph displaying day, date, month and the different moon phases, making this highly useful. At 42mm and 15mm thick, its on the larger side, but wears very well and will turn heads with both watch and non-watch people!

Australian RRP: $19,790. Available at Breitling.com

So there you have five great chronographs to choose from under $20,000 and at a range of budgets too. Now the world of chronographs is massive, and whilst we’ve five here, there are so many more we could have included. So if you have any suggestions or don’t agree with any of these choices, leave us a comment below!

I was out the supermarket checkout a week or so ago, and there was a young guy serving me. On his wrist was a Tissot PRX. I casually said, “Nice watch” and he went on to explain that it was his first watch, and was the quartz model, not automatic. Now Tissot is a great first watch, in fact, the Tissot PRS200 was my first swiss watch, and as a first watch when in your teens, you could do a lot worse than a PRX!

We spoke briefly whilst he scanned the groceries and I told him what I did, so he asked me – what would be my recommendation for a first proper automatic swiss watch? The answer to this is long and varied as there are a lot of great pieces out there now and at all different price points. But it did get me thinking. If I were back at the start of my journey, knowing what I know now with what is available on the market today, what would I choose as my foray into the watch collecting world?

After much discussion with the Watch Advice team, we’ve come up with some great options at different price points as we realise that people are all different with different levels of income and stages of life. What an 18 year old would buy for their first ‘good’ watch vs someone in their 30’s who wants to celebrate a milestone with their first nice timepiece they’ll keep forever will vary greatly. Let’s dive in!

Under $500

Seiko Solar – SNE525P

The Seiko Solar SNE525P is a great starter watch. It’s solar powered, or powered by any light really, so as long as you wear it in the day, you’re good and won’t run out of battery for up to 10 months once fully charged!

With an accuracy of +/-15 seconds per month, it’s more accurate than most mechanical watches out there and with both day and date indicators it’s highly functional too. Measuring 40mm and only 9.7mm thick it will wear well and has a classic steel sports watch design with the blue dial, so it won’t date easily.

Australian Retail Price: AUD $475.

Available at Seikoboutique.com.au

$500-$1000

Baltic HMS 002

Baltic are going from strength to strength with their vintage inspired pieces due to their build quality and design at their price point, and the HMS 002 is no exception. With a 38mm case size and 12mm thick, its more dress watch than sports, but it’s design means you can wear this casually. You also have the option of choosing the preferred strap and open or closed caseback to fit your style.

Made from 316L steel, 50m water resistance, a screw down crown and an automatic movement with 60hrs power reserve, it’s a great all round watch.

Australian Retail Price: Approx AUD $725 (€360 + €80 delivery)

Available at baltic-watches.com

$1000 – $1500

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80

We mentioned the Tissot PRX Quartz at the start of this article, but if you can stretch the budget to just over $1000, then the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 is a great value watch that punches above its weight.

With an integrated bracelet design and great sturdy construction and nice finishing, it rivals watches 3x it’s price. It has Tissot’s new Powermatic 80 movement, meaning you’re good for more than 3 days and with the Nivachron balance spring, it’s essentially antimagnetic.

Australian Retail Price: AUD $1,100.

Available at tissotwatches.com

$1500 – $2500

Longines Hydroconquest

For those that want the look of a proper dive watch, then the Longine Hydroconquest in 41mm is a great entry level diver. 300m water resistance, rotating dive bezel, and steel bracelet with fold out dive extension, it’s a robust watch.

Longines has a lot of heritage in watchmaking, and whilst they’re not a hype brand, they are a solid brand with solid credentials, and this watch is an example of this. With the L888 automatic movement, 72 hours of power reserve and screw down crown, it’s a serious watch and great bang for buck.

Australian Retail Price: AUD $2,100.

Available at Longines.com

$2500 – $5000

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200

We’ve covered the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 last year in our hands on review, which you can read here. It’s a good entry level piece into a reputable brand that has so much history and are doing some great things today. At 40mm and only 12mm thick it wears pretty well and with a few new colours, like the green fumé dial pictured here, they look good.

It’s a highly versatile watch with 200m of water resistance and an automatic movement giving you 38hrs power reserve. Whilst that seems low, it’s designed to be a daily, so you shouldn’t have to worry the watch going dead. It also has a bright green and blue lume, so it’s highly legible in low light, adding to its versatility.

Australian Retail Price: AUD $4,150.

Available at Tagheuer.com

So there you have five watches to start your watch journey, no matter what your budget is. Whilst there a lots of others out there that would suit equally as well, too many in fact for this article, we felt these five would suit most people’s tastes and are all pretty versatile. Should you have more than $5000 saved up for your first watch, then congratulations! But this then would be another conversation.

Do you agree with these selections? Have suggestions for people? The leave us a comment below.

Longines is one of those brands that sail a little under the radar in a sea of mid level Swiss watches. But they have a long history of watchmaking, and having attended their Heritage Conference recently, which focused on the history of Longines in aviation, you realise that they have been at the centre of many explorations and pivotal to major historical events.

Longines have the World’s oldest trademark in watchmaking, the Winged Hourglass, and aviation pioneers like Amelia Earhart and Charles A. Lindbergh wore Longines on their historic journeys. Longines were also the first brand to introduce a second time zone to a wrist watch back in 1925, helping ships convert local time to Universal World Time (UTC) or Zulu Time (hence the name) making timing and navigation easier.

The new collection comprises of 4 models, all of which are great looking watches and come in a matt black, sandblasted anthracite, or sunray blue dial with a date window centred at the 6 o’clock position and feature a bezel with a coloured ceramic insert. Adding to this, all come on either steel bracelets or leather straps in blue or brown depending on the dial colour.

The 39mm Spirit Zulu Time range adds to the already popular Spirit collection, and gives people a more wearable option compared to the existing Zulu Time models launched last year, which may have been a little large for some at 42mm. At 39mm, 13.5mm thick, these should suit most wrist sizes. The star of the show is perhaps the new colourway with an anthracite dial, chocolate brown ceramic bezel insert and 18k yellow gold bezel and crown, with vintage styled old radium Super-LumiNova®.

In order to suit most people’s style and tastes, this variant come on steel, brown leather or brown NATO for a more authentic look, all easily swapped out via Longines’ quick change system. The leather straps also have the added benefit of having a double security folding clasp with micro adjustment system, something you don’t see on leather straps often, if at all!

Inside the new 39mm Spirit Zulu Time collection is the Longines exclusive self-winding movement, L844.4. This movement is COSC certified, vibrates at 3.5Hz (25,200 vph) and has a power reserve of up to 72hrs, so plenty in the tank to last. Longines has also updated components like the silicon balance-spring, so are now anti-magnetic and resistant to magnetism of up to 600 – 800 gauss according to the ISO764 standard. Whilst 600-800 gauss sounds low, compared to some brands now resistant to 15,000 gauss, it is plenty for everyday life, given a tablet or phone gives off about a 10th of this in close proximity.

The Spirit Zulu Time has your typical GMT function across all the models, with independent setting of the GMT hand to the hour hand, and a bi-directional 24hr bezel allowing you to track a 3rd time zone if the need arises. If you’re a frequent traveller, then this is one function that can come in very handy for traversing those pesky time zones, of you have friends or relatives that live in different parts of the world and you want to avoid calling them at 2am. If you’re new to a GMT function, you can learn about it here in our Watch Education section.

Final Thoughts

The new 39mm Longines Spirit Zulu Time is a welcome addition to the Spirit and Zulu Time collections giving people a smaller alternative. Whilst the current Zulu Time models wear quite well, at 42mm, they are on the larger size for some, and now the collection will have a more broader appeal.

The Zulu Times are a good looking GMT, and with multiple colour variants, and the ability to easily swap between steel and leather, there will be a watch that appeals to most tastes. The dials are well balanced, and highly legible with the large numerals filled with Super-LumiNova® and with 100m water resistance and a well built steel case, these are as robust as they come – all at a decent price point as well, ranging from $4,575 AUD on leather, to $6,500 AUD for the two-tone on steel bracelet.

References:

• Matt Black – Steel (L3.802.4.53.6), Leather (L3.802.4.53.2)
• Anthracite/Green Bezel – Steel (L3.802.4.63.6), Leather (L3.802.4.63.2)
• Blue Sunray – Steel (L3.802.4.93.6), Leather (L3.802.4.93.2)
• Two- Tone 18k Gold – Steel (L3.802.5.53.6), Leather (L3.802.5.53.2), NATO (L3.802.5.53.9)

Specification:

• Case: 39mm, 13.5mm thick
• Case Material: Stainless Steel and Stainless Steel/18k Yellow Gold (Ref. L3.802.5.53.6, L3.802.5.53.2, L3.802.5.53.9)
• Dial: Matt Black, Sunray Blue, Sandblasted Anthracite
• Crystal: Sapphire domed glass with multi-layered anti-reflective coating on both sides
• Water resistance: 100 m (10ATM)
• Movement: Longines exclusive self-winding movement, L844.4, COSC certified with silicon balance-spring and magnetic resistant. 25,200 vph (3.5Hz), pivoting on 21 jewels
• Power reserve: 72 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with double safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism, and interchangeable system / Brown or Blue leather strap with folding buckle and micro adjustment and interchangeable system / Brown NATO (two-tone only)

Australian Recommended Retail Price:

• Matt Black, Anthracite with Green Bezel & Blue Sunray – Steel: $4,750, Leather: $4,575
• Two- Tone 18k Gold – Steel: AUD $6,500, Leather & NATO Strap: AUD $6,350

Availability: Estimated availability August 2023 through Longines Boutiques, authorised dealers and at Longines.com

TAG Heuer Carrera Date 36mm

TAG Heuer’s new Carrera Ladies range hits the spot perfectly. With a range of colours in silver, green blue or pink (shown here), you’ll be able to find something that suits her perfectly, and compliments her personality.

The 36mm Carrera is water-resistant to 50 metres, has a domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment and is fully automatic, meaning no battery changes ever. At AUD $4,600 these are great value!

Head to tagheuer.com to check this model out and more!

Longines Primaluna

For a more elegant watch, the Longines Primaluna is a great choice. At 34mm and only 10mm thick, it’s a perfect watch to wear every day, or for special occasions. Being a quartz movement, this is a reasonable AUD $2,450, and is great bang for buck.

In addition, you get a stunning Mother Of Pearl dial, date function and moonphase indicator plus diamond set hour indices. What more could a girl ask for?

Head to Longines.com for the full collection

Omega Constellation 18k Rose Gold Earrings

Maybe she’s got enough watches, but you still want to spoil her. Omega has your answer. With a range of jewellery to match their women’s watch range, you’ll find something she loves.

Like this pair of 18k Rose Gold Earrings, from their Constellation range. Coming in at AUD $1,825 these are unique and timeless, a little like Omega’s Constellation Watch Collection.

Check out the full Omega Jewellery range here.

Caroline Jewellery Box by WOLF

If you’re into watches, you’re not doubt familiar with WOLF and their collection of winders, boxes and travel rolls. But they also have a great collection of jewellery boxes, storage trays and travel cases for women.

Like the “Caroline” jewellery storage box with drawers in a range of colours. Each feature 15 compartments, 7 ring rolls and travel case with 3 compartments and 4 ring rolls. Plus it has special material that absorbs the gases that causes tarnishing, keeping all the precious metals like new. At AUD $679, it’s great value and will last!

For the full range, click here

TISSOT Bellissima Small Lady

If you’re not wanting to spend $7000+ on the new Chopard Happy Sport with the wrap around “Double Tour” strap, then the TISSOT Bellissima Small Lady may be a great affordable alternative.

At $625 it won’t break the bank, and you get a similar look to the Chopard, albeit, without the diamonds. But that’s ok as you still get a Mother Of Pearl dial with roman indices with a date function, domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with antireflective coating and all wrapped up in 26mm case that’s only 7mm thick.

To view the full TISSOT Bellissima collection, click here

So, there you have 5 great watch and watch related gifts that says “I Love You!” for Mum, or whomever the special lady is in your life. If you like these, or end up buying one, drop us a line in the comments section below. HAPPY HOTHER’S DAY!

Longines has a history of more than 190 years, which allows the winged-hourglass brand to offer timepieces that have DNA with historic design codes combined with contemporary expertise and undisputed precision and reliability. The Pilot Majetek is a perfect representation of all these elements coming together.

The original version on which the Pilot Majetek is based on, had a unique curved cushion-shaped case design. The model was first registered as an official timepiece on the 1^st of April 1935 at the International Industrial Property Office in Bern, Switzerland. The original model was created for pilots and the aviation industry in general, however, Longines soon found out that it was appreciated by a much wider audience in general.

The Longines Pilot Majetek comes in a 43mm stainless steel cushion case that has a water resistance of 100 meters (10bar). The cushion case design from the original model is retained while being created to a high degree of reliability and comfort to suit modern standards. At the 9 o’clock side of the case is a fitted commemorative plate marked “1935” as a reference to the original Majetek timepiece it’s based on. The case also features the external fluted rotating bezel, which is accompanied by the fluorescent mobile triangle marker found (“Starting Time Indicator”) found at the starting 12 o’clock position on the dial. In the 1935 Majetek model, the bezel and crystal glass rotated as one, however, this latest iteration Longines has made the sapphire glass fixed to provide a more reliable and higher water-resistance on the case.

Like the majority of timepieces designed for aviators, the readability of the dial must be precise and easy. With this in mind, Longines has kept the dial, like the original Majetek, relatively uncluttered and easy on the eye. The dial has a matte black background, which is accompanied by embossed white Arabic numerals coated with SuperlumiNova. The old radium Superluminova coating can also be found on the rhodium-tipped baton hour and minute hands for optimum nighttime visibility. At the 6 o’clock position is the oversized constant seconds sub-dial, which is a design reference taken straight from the original 1935 timepiece.

The engine powering this latest Pilot Majetek is the brand’s L893.6 calibre movement. The L893.6 movement comes equipped with a magnetically resistant silicon balance spring. The movement operates at a freqeucy of 25,200 VpH whilst giving out a decent power reserve of 72 hours.

Longines offers the Pilot Majetek in three strap choices. The first two are two-stitch leather straps, in either brown or green colour. The third choice is a NATO-type strap made from polyester fibre, which has been created from recycled materials. Our personal favourite out of the three choices would have the be the green leather, as colour tone of the strap goes nicely with the overall appearance of the timepiece, whilst being dark enough not to take attention away from the dial.

A faithful reinterpretation of an original classic, the latest Longines Pilot Majetek has historic DNA with the backing of modern-day materials and an updated design. Ideal for aviators with its easy-to-use fluted bezel and easy readability dial, it’s sure to be enjoyed by a much wider audience much like the original 1935 model was.

Reference: L2.838.4.53.9

Specification:

• Case: 43mm
• Case Material: Cushion shape stainless steel
• Dial: Matte Black dial
• Crystal: Sapphire glass with multi-layered anti-reflective coating on both sides
• Water resistance: 10 Bar (100m)
• Movement: Calibre L893.6
• Power reserve: 72 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Brown or Green leather strap with beige stitches or a Khaki green NATO strap made from recycled materials.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD 5,775.00

Availability: Now through Boutique or E-commerce

The industries lesser powers have been fighting to keep up with the demand and surge in popularity of the aforementioned icons. With that surge, and such low supply, the masses have flocked to pre-owned markets, the grey market, for the chance to pay near double the RRP and have the privilege of owning the most famous green dive watch. Thankfully, in an attempt to share in the hysteria, brands have rushed to offer their own versions of pieces like the Submariner Hulk, offering consumers viable alternatives in which to spend their hard-earned money.

The Longines HydroConquest green, is one such alternative, but is it a true Hulk buster? or just another puny watch in a bright green suit?

Editors note: The model reviewed in this feature is reference L3.781.4.06.9 the 41mm variant which is supplied on the green rubber strap. Other models are available for configuration, including 43mm case sizes and stainless-steel bracelets. No opinion is offered by the reviewer as to the quality or design of the stainless-steel bracelet provided by Longines on other references. 

I have had the opportunity to live with the Longines HydroConquest green for about 3 months prior to writing this review, when I first received the watch, I was a little cautious as to how the piece would wear. On my 17cm wrist, a 41mm diver on an integrated rubber strap has the potential to wear quite large. So it was to my pleasant surprise that the Longines HydroConquest green, is one of the most comfortable dive watches I have ever worn on rubber. The 41mm case made from 316L stainless-steel, sits at a surprisingly slender 12mm thick. The case sits down tightly on the wrist due in part to a gradual decline towards the end of the lugs, the case and strap forming one continuous curve downwards, completing their journey at the base of the wearer’s wrist. There are no flat discs popping up or out, the watch forms itself to you seamlessly and holds steady throughout the day.

The case flanks are brushed horizontally to match the direction of the vertical brushing on the lugs. For such a utilitarian timepiece, the use of a fully brushed case (and clasp) helps to reduce the effect of any blemishes that may arise from daily use. After my 3 months with the Longines HydroConquest green, I noticed only very minor delicate marks to the clasp. Crown-side of the case, Longines incorporate strong monolithic crown guards, which sit out from the case in a near triangular form. Ordinarily crown guards of this size and stature would interfere with the operation of the crown, not so in the case of the HydroConquest. The crown of the watch is equally as grand as the guards. Long, deep ridges extend from its base to the edge of the crown guards, then Longines have added a deep recess into the end of the crown which makes it extremely easy to grip and operate. Unthreading the crown is simple thanks to all of the clean edges and grip added, it is finished with the only high polished section of the watch, which sports Longines’ winged hourglass logo. 

Sitting atop the case of the watch is a deep lustrous, green ceramic bezel insert. Although the bezel insert itself is not particularly vibrant, the use of ceramic here certainly lends the matte colour an extra level of depth and intrigue. In traditional dive watch fashion, the bezel is lumed, with a 15-minute track extending from the sunken lume pip at 12 O’clock. From there, each subsequent 5 minutes is denoted either by Arabic numerals or a single index.  I found the knurling on the bezel to be more than adequate, the grooves were cut precisely and offered adequate grip even when wet. Each anti-clockwise rotation offered a satisfying click, with no bounce or back play to be found. The only issue I did note from the bezel was that the triangle at 12 did not quite line up with the marker on the dial. The misalignment was maybe only half a millimetre, but it was the kind of thing that once you’ve noticed, you can’t help but notice it all the time. 

The dial of the Longines HydroConquest green, is a personal highlight of the timepiece. Opting not to go for a flamboyant bright sunburst pattern, as one might expect from a brands flagship ceramic dive watch. Longines instead have shown magnificent restraint. The brand offering a matte textured khaki green to adorn the dial of their watch. The contrast between the depth of the green ceramic bezel, and the delicately dimpled matte dial is a credit to Longines’ design department. 

Applied Arabic numerals, filled with bright SuperLuminova, denote 12, 6, and 9 O’clock, leaving an equally bright white date wheel to replace the 3 O’clock numeral. On the dial it’s the little things that Longines have gotten spot on here. Applied circular hour markers, equally filled with SuperLuminova, sit outside the Arabic’s, but in between a printed minute track. The date wheel replaces the numeral 3, but is still flanked by an hour marker like its counterpart numeral 9. The 12 and 6 numerals forgo the need for an outboard hour marker but instead are flanked by slightly thicker minute track indications. Print on the dial is minimal and precise, “Longines” and the brands logo are all that sits above the pinion, “Automatic” and “30 bar 300 meter” below. 

Longines seems to have put a heavy focus on symmetry and balancing the dial layout of the HydroConquest. The only step away from that balance is the inclusion of a date wheel, however Longines has done a great job in the date’s incorporation so as to not completely throw off the balance of the dial. A no date variant with a large Arabic numeral 3 in its stead, would be a nice addition to the line up in future. 

Below the dial and secured with a solid screw down case back, beats Longines Calibre L888. What is effectively a rebranded ETA A31.L02, the automatic movement provides the watch with a reliable 64 hours of power reserve and a beat rate of 25,200vph. I found the movement to be perfectly reliable and surprisingly accurate, over the course of 3 months, the watch ran consistently at +4-6 seconds per day. One quirk of the watch that I did note however, the date setting function runs counter intuitively. Scrolling the crown clockwise moved the date, rather than the more familiar anti-clockwise date scroll that most wristwatches utilize. This peculiarity of the movement did leave me, on more than one occasion, scrolling through what I thought was a date change, only to have nothing happen and then remember that this watch works backwards.  

Fixing the watch to the wrist is one of the most comfortable and sturdy integrated rubber straps I have had the privilege of wearing. The strap is colour matched somewhere between the matte dial, and the ceramic bezel. It’s definitely khaki, but it’s a khaki between the two colour reference points on the head of the watch. The strap has a thin band of smooth flat border which holds a dimpled textured rubber, a texture that simulates a fine weaving across and down the strap. The band itself is about the thickness of the lugs at its connection to them, it then tapers and slims slightly from its annoyingly unconventional, 21mm size to the brushed steel clasp. The clasp is in keeping with the balanced and utilitarian design of the watch, minimally branded with just the brands name and logo stamped into its brushed finish.

Twin triggers release into a full milled deployant buckle, which features some level of micro adjustment, and a very satisfying and reassuring click when locked back into place. The micro adjustment coupled with the ability to cut the rubber strap to suit your required length, made the HydroConquest sit on my wrist like a dream. Some wearers may have slight difficulty finding the perfect fit, but I do feel that between cutting and adjusting the strap, most wrist sizes are catered for.

The Longines HydroConquest green has almost everything going for it. It’s a green ceramic dive watch in a modern 41 or 43 mm case size. It is manufactured by one of the Swiss watch industries oldest and most respected brands, backed by the might of the Swatch group. The watch is powered by a reliable Swiss automatic movement, and comes fitted with an integrated strap. By rights and all things being equal, the Longines HydroConquest green should have a waitlist longer than your local yellow pages. It doesn’t though, and at $2,400 AUD the watch can be had right now in stores. The Longines HydroConquest green may very well be the best bang for your buck dive watch coming out of Switzerland today. If you are like so many people who have fallen for the green dialled charm of the Submariner Hulk but cant bear to pay the premium being asked to purchase it, go out and get the Longines HydroConquest green on your wrist, you will not be disappointed. 

New for 2020, Longines brings back, and modernises it’s mid-20^th century war time reference 5774. Once a timepiece that served proudly amongst the French naval forces, the brand breathes new life into the 5774 with the all new Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale.

The watch is unmistakably inspired by 1940’s war time timepieces, Longines outfits its newest offering with a 38.5mm stainless steel case. The case has a bubbled doming effect, thanks in large part to the choice of sapphire crystal and smooth bezel employed here. 

Long protruding lugs feature drill holes for easy strap switching should the need arise, although with 19mm lug widths the need may arise a little less than you hope. The watch from with the new Heritage Military Marine Nationale is based, the 5774, was used by naval forces in a time before dive watches, and as such would be used for their water duties. The new Heritage Military Marine Nationale features only 30m of water resistance, so it would seem the watch is a reimagining which strays a little far from its inspiration. 

Behind a solid steel case back, we find a dateless variation of the Longines calibre L888 automatic movement. A solid everyday work horse, the calibre L888 comfortably provides 64 hours of power reserve. 

The vintage inspiration is present most readily dial side of the new watch, a creamy date-less dial, complete with blued steel hands and large printed numerals, the watch is restrained and utilitarian in its aesthetic. The words “Fab Suisse” feature just below the brand name, a call back to the original reference.

The all new Heritage Military Marine Nationale is another step in Longine’s march of heritage reissues as of late. The move towards reissues has been a successful one for the brand and we expect to see many more in the years to come.

Available for $2,950.00 AUD, the Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale can be purchased at your local authorised dealer.

The Spirit collection was inspired by the winged-hourglass brand’s history, in which they accompanied pioneers as they conquered the sea, air and land. Using the brand’s heritage, a series of watches were created to honour the pioneers; the men and women who by a display of bravery and courage, have left their mark on the world, all the while encouraging the new generations to surpass them.

 The Spirit collection brings together present-day aesthetic appeal with modern movements while referencing back to the glory days of aviation. 

The Longines Spirit 42mm Automatic Chronometer Chronograph comes in three dial colour variants; sunray blue, grained silver and matte black. All three options feature a 42mm steel case, with the bezel essentially being integrated with the dial. The models come with large applied Arabic numerals filled with Superluminova. The hands are also quite beautifully designed to represent aeroplane propellor blades. 

The chronograph functions include 30 minute counter at 3 o’clock, 12 hour counter at 6 o’clock and constant seconds at 9 o’clock position. The chronograph seconds hand, along with the hands on the 30-minute and 12-hour counter have all been tipped in red. This adds to the different colours used throughout the dial, making it look very lively and aesthetically appealing. A date window is also added between 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock, which is a hit and miss depending on personal tastes. It’s useful to include the date function; however, the location of it can make the dial feel rather “busy”. The five stars shown on the dial is also supposed to signify Longines “improvement of quality and reliability of the movement”.

The different dial colours aren’t the only thing that sets these three watches apart, however. The standard choice of straps help distinguish each different model and have their sense of character. The beautiful sunray blue dial is matched with a blue leather strap. This definitely helps to nail home the overall blue appearance of the watch, and personally, my favourite pick from the collection.

The grained silver dial comes with a matching steel bracelet which works well to match the dial. The significant difference between the white and the other two colours is, of course, the contrast. However, the watch on steel bracelet certainly has its appeal. 

The matte black dial comes with not a black, but rather brown leather strap. This gives the sense of travellers watch or more suited to say…pioneering? The brown surprisingly works well with the black dial to certainly give it that vintage-contemporary mixed look. 

The engine behind these watches is the Longines calibre L688.4. Based on the ETA A08.L01, Longines has updated this movement to now have a silicon balance spring and chronometer certification. 

The calibre L688.4 powers the regular hours and minutes, along with the chronometer functions and date function. The movement also allows for a separate date correction crown, located at the 10 o’clock position. Both crowns also screw-down, ensuring better closure for water resistance, which is rated to a depth of 100m. Ticking at 4hz, the Longines calibre L688.4 produces a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. 

The latest Spirit chronograph collection by Longines combines historical references with modern design codes and movements to bring an aesthetically pleasing timepiece well suited for travel and everyday wear. Being presented in three colour choices with a variety of strap options, the Longines Spirit 42mm Automatic Chronometer Chronograph will be able to cater for different personal tastes. 

Australian retail price:

Reference: L3.820.4.93.0 (Blue dial) – $4,500.00

Reference: L3.820.4.53.6 (Black dial) – $4,500.00

Reference: L3.820.4.73.6 (White dial) – $4,500.00

2020 has been a difficult year for everyone, but the watch industry has shown that even in times of tighter belts, impressive timepieces can still be had. Here are our top 5 under 6k for 2020 so far, in no particular order of course.

The Sinn U50 range

For years the Sinn U1 has been a huge hit amongst enthusiasts despite its larger case size of 44mm. So when Sinn announced the release of the Sinn U50 range, essentially a scaled down version of the aforementioned U1, fans of the German manufacturer rejoiced. The Sinn U50 offers a whopping 500m water resistance in a more mainstream appealing 41mm case. Sinn again impresses with the use of the brands signature tegemented steel, offering a greater level of scratch resistance, ensuring that this is a watch built to take a beating.

The Sinn U50 range starts at $4,320.00 AUD for the standard model, $4,570.00 AUD for the beefed up U50 SDR.

The Baume Et Mercier Hampton

Baume Et Mercier breathed new life into its Hampton range this year, focusing on classic art deco inspired designs for its rectangular cased line. In keeping with its classical design brief, the new Hampton automatic reference 10522, shows just how sweet, simple can be. With its opaline and grained silver dial, flanked by black ruthenium numerals and hour markers, the Hampton automatic hits a sweet spot between Cartier tank and JLC Reverso.

Available for $3,700.00 AUD, the Baume Et Mercier is fit for all of our Hamptons lifestyle dreams.

The Longines Hydroconquest (Green)

Longines used 2020 to jump aboard the green diver trend, somewhat late as it may be, by introducing the Hydroconquest green.  Available in two case sizes, 41 and 43mm and either on a rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet, everything from the previous Hydroconquest model is still present. 300m water resistance, applied indices with generous lume and a 65-hour power reserve. Only now its green.  Whilst a change of colour doesn’t make a whole new watch, in this case the departure from traditional black and blue dive watches in favour of this military-esque olive green, does make the watch undeniably more desirable.

The new Longines Hydroconquest green (Reference L3-781-4-06-6) is available for purchase for $2,325.00 AUD.

The Seiko Prospex black SPB125J1

Perhaps the unofficial kings of the budget friendly dive watch category, Seiko launched the Prospex black limited edition collection in 2020. The model here features a distinctive hard outer black coating to the stainless steel case, accented with bold orange hands and indices, this watch not only looks the part, its 200m water resistance and screw down crown mean it plays it too.  Make no mistake, this is no petite desk diver, at 45mm wide and with a height of 13mm the Prospex black is a substantial watch on wrist.

Priced at $1400.00 AUD and limited to 7,000 pieces worldwide, the Prospex black is one special sumo. 

The Breitling Navitimer 35

Breitling led the way this year in hosting their 2020 novelties online after the demise of Baselworld. The brand has found new life under the hand of CEO Georges Kern, reissuing heritage pieces, slimming down core line offerings, and here introducing a 35mm Navitimer to the collection. Whilst the brand markets the Navitimer 35 towards women, there’s no denying that this range sits beautifully on any wrist. Focusing on the three time only, non-diamond adorned variants, the Navitimer 35 is available in Silver, Blue or our personal pick of the bunch, Copper dials. 

All three variants of the Navitimer 35 are priced at $5,620.00 AUD