A little over a week ago, the Watch Advice team sat down to look at all 62 Lots that will make up this year’s Only Watch – the charitable auction that raises money for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy – a disease affecting 1 in 3500 boys that progressively weakens all their muscles, including the heart, the loss of the ability to walk and global autonomy as they get older. 

We selected 10 pieces that were the most unique, those pieces that we felt the brands who made them pushed the boundaries in terms of either out of the box thinking, or something very different in design or materials to what they would normally do. If you missed our first article, then you can read Our Top 10 Picks For Only Watch 2023: Part 1 here. Now, onto part 2!

Lot 39 – Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata

Why We Love It

Louis Vuitton have been doing some out there pieces recently, remember the Tambour Opera Automata released earlier this year? LV’s high watchmaking via their La Fabrique du Temps is out there, and this piece is no exception. It incorporates a lot of artisanal techniques such as the micro-sculpture and grisaille enamel on the dial, and depicts the likeness of Albert Einstein in one of his most notorious photographic and mischievous portraits, sticking his tongue out in an unexpected moment of levity.

Being part of their Automata collection, it has the LV 525 calibre Automata mechanism featuring 4 animations, jumping hours, retrograde minutes and power reserve indicator so you can see how much of the 100 hours you have left!

Full Details: Only Watch – Louis Vuitton

Lot 41 – Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece

Why We Love It

Maurice Lacroix normally play in the mid range luxury segment and not normally a brand you would think producing a skeletonised hand-wound movement in a completely clear, hand finished sapphire case and crown. The movement also showcases the Only Watch 2023 colours across the off-centre dial’s periphery and indices, and on the bridges and plates.

This style of watch and the techniques used are a first for the brand, showcasing Maurice Lacroix pushing their boundaries here. The open-worked design allows the wearer to see the regulating organ, the mainspring in various states of tension, the gear train and even the keyless works. This puts Maurice Lacroix into the realms of high horology!

Full Details: Only Watch – Maurice Lacroix

Lot 55 – TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds

Why We Love It

The Monaco isn’t a new watch for TAG Heuer, it’s a classic. But what this watch is, is a first on many levels for TAG Heuer. The new TH81-00 is a first for TAG – an automatic split-seconds chronograph, is one of the most complicated chronograph complications on the market today. This is housed in a re-designed case inspired by the original 1969 model, but this time TAG Heuer have constructed it from texturised Titanium, designed and made in-house at the TAG Heuer Institute. Oh, and the movement, it’s also titanium!

This watch has been two years in development and showcases that TAG Heuer is really starting to look to both its past and future when it come to it’s watches, not just high level pieces. Well done TAG Heuer!

Full Details: Only Watch – TAG Heuer

Lot 58 – Tudor Prince Chronograph One

Why We Love It

This a little left of field this one. The Tudor Prince isn’t in the current Tudor line up, but it was up until 2000. For Only Watch 2023, Tudor has gone back in time to 1976 and brought the Tudor Prince Chronograph back to life, updating it substantially for 2023. This time, the brand has gone out on a limb and created their Only Watch version in full 18k yellow gold, compete with the oyster bracelet and patented T-fit clasp.

The chronograph movement is first for the brand however, with a brand new MT59XX prototype chronograph calibre built from the ground up and fully in-house. With a -2/+4 secs per day accuracy and their standard 70hr power reserve, this is a movement you will start to see filtering down eventually to the Black Bay Chrono, or maybe a re-birth of a classic is in store?

Full Details: Only Watch – Tudor

Lot 60 – URWERK Space-Time Blade

Why We Love It

We love this because, well it’s just cool. The Space-Time Blade is a 1.67m tall clock that tell the time with hours, minutes and seconds, and in addition, tracks the speed of the Earth’s rotation through space. This links nicely back to their watch pieces, like their UR-100 with the revolving satellite display and distance travelled on Earth and distance travelled by Earth.

The tube is made in collaboration with Dalibor Farny, the company behind the Nixie Tube clocks, which this consists of eight individual tubes in the blade, and connects to the bronze pedestal. This is one piece that would look great in the corner at night, with each tube emitting an orange glow.

Full Details: Only Watch – URWERK

So, there you have it – this rounds out our Top 10 picks for Only Watch 2023 with what we think are the most unique creations put forward by each brand participating this year. If you’re wanting to check out more of each Lot, then head to onlywatch.com/collection for the full collection. And if you missed Part 1 on our Top 10 picks, then check it out here.

Furlan Marri Rosso Grigio

Reference: 1085-A 

Australian Recommeded Retail Price: CHF 555.00 (Approx $895 AUD)

Availability: Now

Starting off this list is the Furlan Marri Rosso Grigio (ref. 1085-A). This chronograph timepiece comes with a dual-counter layout, with the 3 o’clock counter being a 24-hr timer and the 9 o’clock counter being a 60-minute counter. The outer part of the dial features an asthmometer (5 respirations) scale. The asthmometer is used to measure respirations per minute by using the chronograph hand and stopping it after the patient/person’s 15th respiration.

The timepiece comes in a 38mm 316L stainless steel case (50m waterproof) which has a beautiful shine under light. I personally own the “Mare blu” and under different lighting conditions, the case shines so well, even more so in sunlight. The 38mm case size makes it a great fit for the average wrist (6.5-7 inches), however, if you have a larger wrist size you may find this small. Legibility of the dial is fairly easy thanks to the white markings on the grey dial background. The hour indexes are a mixture of baton-style black markings or Arabic numerals for the 12 and 6 o’clock.

The movement in this piece is a mechaquarts Seiko VK64. Mechquartz movements are hybrid movements that use quartz technology for the chronograph watch movement and a mechanical module for the operation of the chronograph. Priced at CHF555.0 (approx $895 AUD), this timepiece is a great contender for the under $1,500 category.

MIDO Commander Big Date

Reference: M021.626.17.041.00

Australian Recommeded Retail Price: $1,450

Availability: Now

The MIDO Commander Big Date is a three-hander timepiece with super easy dial readability. The watch comes in a 42mm stainless steel case that offers a see-through case back. The initial release of the MIDO Commander Big Date back in 2018 celebrated the 100th anniversary of the brand. Since then there have been different iterations of the watch created, with the one chosen for this article being the blue sunray satin-finished dial.

As the name suggests, the timepiece comes with a large date window at 6 o’clock, which MIDO states “offers unrivalled date legibility”. As part of MIDO’s 100th-anniversary celebrations, they developed an exclusive automatic movement named Calibre 80. In addition to the big date window display, the power reserve on offer is impressive at 80 hours. The open case back shows the Calibre 80 movement with its finely decorated oscillating weight with its Geneva stripes and MIDO logo.

This, modern and elegant timepiece is a great option to consider, as it offers great readability with a beautiful sunray blue dial while having the performance of an 80-hour power reserve movement to back up the aesthetics.

Maurice Lacroix Aikon #Tide

Reference:  AI2008-80080-300-0

Australian Recommeded Retail Price: $1, 190

Availability: Now

For those that are after something a bit more funky, playful with a dose of colour and backed by a luxury brand, the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Tide may just be that watch. The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Tide is offered in a variety of eye-popping colours as they were made to be noticed. One of the best things about these timepieces is they help the oceans become a little bit cleaner.

The Aikon #tide range of watches comes from the same family of other Aikon watches created by Maurice Lacroix and is created by ocean-bound upcycled plastic which is then combined with glass fibre. This results in the overall material being twice as hard as standard plastic material, five times more resistant and with a carbon footprint that is greatly less than the production of virgin PET. Maurice Lacroix states that “the bezel, case, case back, crown, end-piece and buckle on this new model are all made from this composite material. It takes 17 bottles to make one fabulous watch and its tailor-made packaging”.

The watch has a 40mm case size and comes in a wide array of colours that match the dial. Our personal favourite is the blue dial with “vagues du Jura”, however, as mentioned a variety of colours to choose from depending on personal tastes.

SEIKO Presage Sharp Edge Blue Rose Open Heart

Reference: SPB311

Australian Recommeded Retail Price: $1,550

Availability: Now

The timepiece from Seiko ticks a lot of the boxes for being a great timepiece under $1,500 (Aud). Seiko’s Presage Sharp Edged series was created a few years ago, and since then has established itself for its combination of traditional mechanical watchmaking with a distinctively modern Japanese style.

Seiko has given this model a 40.2mm stainless steel case with a contrasting brown leather strap. The beauty of this timepiece lies in the dial. Firstly we have the patterned indigo blue dial which is complimented beautifully by the rose gold-covered hour indices and hands. Then at 9 o’clock, we have the open-heart which shows the movement’s balance wheel in action. A nice touch to what is already a stunning dial.

Seiko has given their 6R38 movement for this timepiece, giving out a sturdy power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The watch comes with an open case back too in which you can see more of the movement.

TISSOT PRX Powermatic 80 Ice-Blue

Reference: T137.407.11.351.00

Australian Recommeded Retail Price: $1,100

Availability: TBA.

A list of great timepieces under $1,500 wouldn’t be complete without the addition of Tissot’s PRX Powermatic 80. This watch has been out for a while now and is loved by watch aficionados around the world. With the shimmering bracelet design, the 1970’s integrated case now brushed and polished to the ‘tapisserie’ patterned dial, Tissot hit the ball out of the park with this watch.

Now, the brand has quietly introduced an ice-blue coloured dial into the PRX’s lineup. It borders on the ever-so-popular Tiffany-blue, but is a few shades lighter. The ice blue is beautiful, and combined with the tapisserie dial makes it stand out very well.

This latest PRX Powermatic 80 carries all the same functions and features that make the previous versions so great, the only difference being now is the dial colour change. The movement inside is the Powermatic 80.111 which gives out a power reserve of approximately 80 hours. The timepiece is however not yet been released in Australia, however, keep an eye out on Tissot’s website as it is expected to be dropped shortly!

Maurice Lacroix has released the first timepiece of what could be many, as a commemoration of becoming the Official Timekeeper for (KOTC) back in 2021. Made of titanium, the watch is not only light but also hypoallergenic, an ideal material for sporting individuals. 

Inspired by the official colours of (KOTC), Maurice Lacroix’s AIKON King of the Court Special Edition did the same colour scheme throughout the watch. With yellow being used for the hands, minute markers, black for the sub-dials, minute track, and finally a silver sunray dial. 

This latest special edition release is no different from other Maurice Lacroix timepieces in terms of precision and functions. The AIKON King of the Court timepiece comes with luminescent hour and minute hands along with the hour indices that provide legibility even in the dimmest light conditions. 

The timepiece also comes with a tri-subdial layout, with a constant seconds counter at 6 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock, and a 1/10 second counter at 12 o’clock. To round off the functions, a date window is added within the 6 o’clock sub-counter. The movement powering the watch is a quartz, which for mechanical watch fans, maybe the only drawback. For sporting enthusiasts, it’s perfectly fine as less wear and tear on the parts along with not needing to ever wind the watch. The case back also comes with an engraving of a crown, which is the official logo of the King of the Court. 

WatchAdvice’s Thoughts:

As the first timepiece to celebrate Maurice Lacroix becoming the Official Timekeeper for (KOTC), it’s a great representation of the event. The model uses the same colour theme as the (KOTC)’s official colours, with the tricoloured FKM rubber strap that comes as standard using the same colours. 

The use of FKM rubber is a great addition to a sports watch, as it’s much superior to conventional rubber straps. When the watch is worn for sporting events, it will undergo normal wear and tear. This is where the FKM rubber strap will fair better than standard rubber straps, as it is less prone to fading, which means it can retain its showroom-fresh appearance for a much longer time. Combine this with the 44mm titanium case, and it becomes an ideal sports watch that can endure even some of the toughest sporting events. 

Reference: AI1018-TT030-130-K

Specification:

• Case: 44 mm
• Case Material: Titanium
• Dial: Silver sunray with black snailing sub-counters
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating inside
• Water resistance: 100 meters
• Movement: Quartz
• Bracelet: Black rubber strap with yellow mustard and white lines with black M-logo and Titanium pin buckle

International Pricing: CHF 1400

The ACEA Run Rome The Marathon is quite like no other. It’s able to inspire runners as they make their way through Rome, passing through some iconic and impressive monuments. Monuments such as the Baths of Caracalla, the Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Wall, and even the Piazza di Spagna. Running a marathon through history that dates back to almost 2000 years old? What could be more scenic and awe-inspiring? 

While being breathtaking to the participants, the competition itself is able to also be quite innovative. The marathon is able to renew itself so that competitors will always have something new to face. From 2021, the marathon will adopt a new name alongside a newly redesigned visual identity. The event will be more modernised and will offer new activities that will allow both beginners and experienced runners to take part in. 

Alessandro Giacomini, the Infront Italy Managing Director is not only delighted by the event, but also the prospect of working beside Maurice Lacroix. He states that “We are delighted to announce this official partnership with the watchmaking brand Maurice Lacroix, a Manufacture that represents the excellence of Swiss watchmaking! This is our first collaboration and I’m sure it won’t be the last!”

Managing Director of Maurice Lacroix, Stéphane Waser, carries a similar sentiment as the brand’s modern, urban and youthful spirit is in harmony with the marathon’s vision. He explains that “The organisation of ACEA Run Rome The Marathon has proven itself to be bold by reinventing itself with modernity. Additionally, this race is a dream challenge for all athletes. It brings together enthusiasts and professionals from around the world. We are delighted to be the official timekeeper and to take part in this incredible adventure.”

The ACEA Run Rome The Marathon will take place on Sunday, September 19th and will be divided into three categories in which participants can take part in; “ACEA Run Rome The Marathon” which is the main 42-kilometre race through the city, the “ACEA Run4Rome Relay” which is an event that takes place in teams of 4 and lastly the “Fun Race”, which is a virtual event that allows families and friends to choose where they would like to run the most, for 5km. 

Another piece that’s being put forth for auction is Maurice Lacroix Aikon Master Grand Date Only Watch 2021. Maurice Lacroix has been a supporter of Only Watch for a while now, donating timepieces to the auction for more than 10 years. 

This year’s timepiece that Maurice Lacroix will be donating is a very aesthetic piece, created in collaboration with Mahindra Racing. Maurice Lacroix and Mahindra Racing have been sharing each other’s knowledge and expertise to help them excel in their respective fields. A by-product of this is the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Master Grand Date Only Watch 2021. 

Design:

The Aikon Master Grand Date comes in a rather large 47mm case. For the first time in Maurice Lacroix’s Aikon collection, the case has been formed from carbon fibre, which was formerly used on one of Mahindra Racing’s cars. 

The case also uses black DLC stainless steel, which can be seen on the case back. The checkered pattern of the case makes this piece quite aesthetic, but also shows its racing roots and the collaboration with Mahindra Racing. 

The dial is very eye-catching as well, as it’s presented in a sun-brushed orange. The dial is split into two parts, with the top left being the hour and minutes display, followed by a skeletonised constant seconds counter directly underneath. Looking diagonally across from the off-centred dial, you’ll see an open-worked area, revealing the screwed balance, hairspring, pallet lever, and escape wheel. The “Grand Date” window located at the 10 o’clock position is not like normal date mechanisms, as it features two discs, one for tens and the other for units. 

The colours of the dial are orange, yellow (superluminova for hands and hour markers) along with contrasting black for the open-worked section and also the date window. Maurice Lacroix chose these colours as they showcase the theme for Only Watch 2021. 

Movement:

The engine at the heat of the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Master Grand Date Only Watch 2021 is the ML331 calibre automatic movement. This is a Maurice Lacroix manufacture movement, which now comes with more refined finishing. 

Turn the watch over and from the open case back you can see the level of finishing in detail. The skeletonised rotor comes with the Maurice Lacroix logo and works well to show as much of the movement underneath as possible. 

Everything in this watch has been done to be aesthetically pleasing to the eye, and the case back is no different. The case back is done in all black (plates, rotor etc) which leaves the coloured jewels and gears to really stand out. The ML331 calibre movement comes with a minimum power reserve of 50 hours. 

The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Master Grand Date Only Watch 2021 comes presented in two coloured watch straps. The first strap is black with matching stitching which really lets the dial stand out, while the other strap is a vibrant orange with yellow stitching, matching the colours of the dial. 

The bidder who is successful in winning this gorgeous piece at the Only Watch 2021 auction will also be invited to attend a 2022 round of the ABB FIA Formula E World Championship as an official guest of Mahindra Racing, where they will get the full VIP treatment. 

Estimate Auction Pricing: CHF 12,00 – 18,000 ($17,000 – $25,000 AUD)