MB&F – Watch Advice https://www.watchadvice.com.au Luxury watch reviews, news & advice Fri, 28 Jul 2023 11:02:26 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.8.1 7 High-End Purple Dial Timepieces https://www.watchadvice.com.au/17716/7-high-end-purple-dial-timepieces/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/17716/7-high-end-purple-dial-timepieces/#respond Fri, 28 Jul 2023 11:02:24 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=17716 Earlier this month we wrote a piece on how coloured dials are becoming more popular, but the beauty of the purple dial is often overlooked. This previous article covered 5 purple dial watches under $5,000 (which you can read here). In this article, we aim to showcase the more expensive timepieces, with what the high-end luxury watch brands have to offer when it comes to purple dial timepieces.

Regardless of the price bracket, purple dial timepieces are certainly not easy to come by. Many brands either opt to stay away from colour or only reserve it for special limited edition runs. Either way you look at it, it seems like a real shame that brands aren’t bringing more of this stunning colour into their collections.

Who knows, maybe purple dials may come back as a trend in the near future, much like the Tiffany blue or “iced blue” dial trends, albeit these two already fall into the category of the more popular coloured dials. Maybe what we need is a high-profile watchmaker to release a purple dial timepiece in a non-limited run to set things off. Until then, however, we present to you seven high-end purple dial timepieces that are available on the market. Keep in mind, some of these models may be limited editions, so if your heart desires one it may be best to look into the second-hand market.

Zenith – DEFY 21 Ultraviolet

Ref. (97.9001.9004/80.R922)

Featuring Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero 21 1/100th of a second chronograph movement, this 44mm matte titanium watch features a beautiful violet skeleton dial. Even though it’s the main plate of the movement that’s purple, it can be still easily be seen by the viewer. To match the dial is a violet and black rubber strap.
This is easily one of our favourite purple dial timepieces. With the skeleton dial, and matte titanium case, it all blends together nicely. And more importantly, looks spectacular on the wrist with that 1/100th of a-second chronograph function!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $21,100.00

Rolex – Datejust 36mm

Ref. (126234)

This white gold and oystersteel Datejust 36mm comes with an aubergine diamond set dial. The dial features Roman numerals for the hour indices, with the Roman VI and IX set with 24 diamonds. The aubergine dial has a sunray finish, done through brushing techniques that creates grooves that move outwards from the centre of the dial.
The aubergine dial will play with light beautifully thanks to this sunray finish. With the rest of the timepiece finished in either white gold or oystersteel, it allows the aubergine dial to really stand out. The Datejust is finished with its iconic fluted bezel and jubilee bracelet.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: $16,950.00

Hublot – Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Purple Sapphire

Ref. (645.JM.0120.RT)

This list wouldn’t be complete without a sapphire timepiece from Hublot. The Tourbillon Purple Sapphire Big Bang is one up there for being one of Hublot’s most daring timepieces, and it’s available in purple!

The timepiece’s polished purple sapphire crystal stands out as one of the best-looking purple timepieces in this list, complimented nicely by its transparent purple structured lined rubber strap. The Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Purple Sapphire is limited to a run of 50 models.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $309,000.00

Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding Chronograph

Ref. (26331BC.GG.1224BC.01)

A purple dial timepiece in Audemars Piguet’s lineup is no common sight, however, the model they currently have is a stunner to say the least. Featuring a plum purple sunray finish dial with Audemars Piguet’s iconic “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, the purple stands out beautifully especially with the white gold hour indices and counters.

If this wasn’t enough, the whole timepiece (case & bracelet) is done in 18k white gold with a “hammered” finish, to give the watch a frosted look. Overall just an amazing-looking timepiece. The model is limited to a run of 200 watches.

Did your heart beat faster too just looking at it?

Australian Recommended Retail Price: By Appointment Only

H. Moser & Cie – Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept

Ref. (1343-0212)

If you’re after a purple dial timepiece, just to showcase the purple dial and nothing else, who does it better than H. Moser & Cie? The brand’s Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept is one of their purest collections, showcasing nothing but just the beauty of the dial and the hour, minute and second hands.

And what a beautiful dial it is. This limited edition (20 models) features a Purple Haze fumé dial that one can get lost in quite easily. Pictures don’t do this dial justice. The watch comes in a 40.8mm solid 18-carat white gold case with the brand’s hand-wound HMC 343 calibre movement, that gives out a staggering power reserve of 7 days!

International Recommended Retail Price: CHF 24,000

MB&F – LM101

Ref. (LM101 WG Purple)

In 2021, MB&F released three new editions for their iconic LM101 timepiece. One of these models was the striking purple dial matched with 18k white gold case. The watch itself is a feat of watchmaking engineering, but accompanied by this purple dial it becomes something else entirely.

While, yes, the blue dial LM101 is one beautiful watch, especially that hue of blue, but the purple is just as if not more mesmerising. Like the H.Moser&Cie’s fume dial, you can catch yourself (and quite possibly everyone around you) staring at the beauty that lays on the surface of this watch. The definition of mechanical “Art for your Wrist”.

International Recommended Retail Price: 73‘000 CHF


Czapek – Faubourg De Cracovie Purple Panda

Even though this timepiece is sold out (can be pre-ordered for the next possible run), we thought it should still get a mention due thanks to its artistic purple dial. The Czapek Faubourg De Cracovie comes with a handcrafted Guilloché “Résonance” bombé dial in purple and white, which gives the dial a beautiful artistic look.

The Guilloché “Résonance” bombé pattern also revolves around the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock sub-dials, instead of it being a uniform pattern on the dial. The timepiece is offered in a 41.5mm stainless steel case with the brand’s caliber SXH3 movement sitting inside.
International Recommended Retail Price: 32‘000 CHF



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MB&F’s Connection to Cars Runs Deep With The Latest HM8 Mark 2 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/16663/mbfs-connection-to-cars-runs-deep-with-the-latest-hm8-mark-2/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/16663/mbfs-connection-to-cars-runs-deep-with-the-latest-hm8-mark-2/#respond Sun, 18 Jun 2023 12:12:39 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=16663 MB&F has a history with cars stretching back a decade, with their first iconic car-inspired timepiece starting in 2012 and being continued till today. The journey of MB&F’s connection to cars started with the HM5 in 2012, followed shortly by the HMX in 2015, HM8 in 2016, and now, not only the latest edition but also the most technologically evolved, the HM8 Mark 2.

MBF’s link to the car world didn’t first transpire in 2012 however, in fact, it goes all the way back to 1985, when a certain Maximilian Büsser was having childhood dreams about becoming a car designer. From a young age until he was 18, all the Founder of MB&F would sketch and draw were cars. His aspiration of becoming a car designer took a turn, however, as just before graduating from high school, he learned that the world-famous ArtCenter College of Design from Pasadena, was opening a campus right near his childhood home.

HM8 Mark 2 in titanium and green CarbonMacrolon® body panel limited to 33 pieces.

The college had a massive fee of approximately 50,000 CHF, which at that time was an extravagant amount. Unfortunately due to this cost, he would not be able to attend and instead put on his engineering hat as he signed up for the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology Lausanne (EPFL). That wasn’t the end of the story for his passion for cars though.

Maximilian Büsser states “I lost my way, I lost my marbles, and ended up in the watchmaking industry,” he shares with a smile. “So, when I decided to tackle car design in a timepiece, this was humungous for me. It was everything I had ever dreamed of.”

HM8 Mark 2 in titanium and green CarbonMacrolon® showing the front profile of the dial.

The design of the first car-inspired timepiece by MB&F, the HM5, took inspiration from a crazy design by Amida, more particularly a wristwatch unveiled in 1976 called the Amida Digitrend. MB&F took the concept of this timepiece and worked on a similar one of their own, by employing a sapphire prism that would allow the jumping hours and sweeping minutes to be indicated vertically when they were actually flat on the movement. An iconic design in modern-day timepieces, the HM5 came with a window on the side of the timepiece that indicated time as an old-style speedometer. The MB&F design was greatly improved from the Amida version, with a notable feature being MB&F using discs one on top of each other (unlike Amida’s side-by-side discs) to maximize the size of the digits and increase legibility.

HM8 Mark 2 in titanium and white CarbonMacrolon® body panel.

Now, through the different iterations since the creation of the HM5, MB&F has unveiled their most technologically advanced car-inspired timepiece, the HM8 Mark 2. Everything from the case to the movement has been redesigned, starting with new materials.

The case now uses a material called CarbonMacrolon®. Specifically designed for MB&F CarbonMacrolon® is a composite material composed of a polymer matrix injected with carbon nanotubes, which add strength and rigidity. Carbon nanotubes offer superior tensile strength and stiffness than traditional carbon fiber reinforcing. MB&F’s CarbonMacrolon® is a solid material that is hard and can be coloured, polished, bead-blasted, lacquered, and satin-finished, while also being extremely light, weighing approximately 8 times less than steel.

HM8 Mark 2 in titanium and green CarbonMacrolon® showing the hour and minute indications.

The engine inside this new HM8 Mark 2 is the three-dimensional horological engine, composed of a jumping hour and trailing minutes module developed in-house by MB&F, which is ultimately powered by a Girard-Perregaux base movement. This mechanical automatic winding movement operates at a high frequency of 4Hz (28, 800 VpH) and gives out a decent power reserve of 42 hours. The movement comes with a brand new crown, which has a “double de-clutch” system. This system works by pushing the crown in and turning it three-quarters of a turn to release it. This has the advantage of gaining space and providing additional security to the system, which is a genuine advantage for a sports watch.

Side profile of the HM8 Mark 2

A lot of the construction process for the HM8 Mark 2 required specialist technicians and suppliers. The sapphire crystal in particular has pushed the limits of what’s physically possible in the world of Horology. MB&F states “The creation of this double-curved sapphire has reached a complexity that is 30 to 40 times more expensive than a dome sapphire. Only one supplier agreed to take on the challenge. During the many hours required to produce each sapphire crystal, the risk of breakage is incredibly high – and if it is going to break, it is always at the very last moment, much to the utter desperation of all concerned. Once safely completed and fitted into the timepiece, however, it is just as robust as the sapphire crystal on any sports watch.”

The movement with the 22k Gold automatic winding rotor can be seen from the top surface.

MB&F is releasing the HM8 Mark 2 in two versions: a limited edition titanium and green CarbonMacrolon® body panel limited to 33 pieces, and non-limited titanium and white CarbonMacrolon® body panel edition. The limited edition green CarbonMacrolon® timepiece is offered in a white calfskin strap which offers great contrast against the case, while the second edition is offered in a light green calfskin strap, offering an opposing colour image to the limited edition model.

On the wrist shot of the all-new HM8 Mark 2.

The HM8 Mark 2 brings together 10+ years of experience and knowledge in making an iconic car-inspired design. What started with the HM5, a unique design using an old-style speedometer layout for the dial, has now turned into a watch that is more technical, legible, sexier, and easier to wear. Both versions of the HM8 Mark 2 can be purchased from authorised MBF retailers or through MB&F’s e-commerce website.

Reference: 82.TL.G, 82.TL.W

Specification

  • Case: 47 x 41.5 x 19 mm
  • Case Material: Grade 5 titanium with green or white CarbonMacrolon®
  • Dial: Three-dimensional horological engine, composed of a jumping hour and trailing minutes module developed
  • Crystal: Sapphire crystals on top, front and display back are treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces. Dual reflective sapphire crystal prisms with integrated magnifying lens.
  • Water resistance: 30m (3bar)
  • Movement: Automatic Calibre in-house by MB&F, powered by a Girard-Perregaux base movement with 22K gold automatic winding rotor.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours
  • Strap: Calfskin strap – white for the British green model and green for the white model with a titanium tang buckle.

Availability:  Selected retailers and MB&F E-Commerce.

International Recommended Retail Pricing: 73,000 CHF

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MB&F Introduces A New Edition to the EVO Family https://www.watchadvice.com.au/11876/mbf-introduces-a-new-edition-to-the-evo-family/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/11876/mbf-introduces-a-new-edition-to-the-evo-family/#respond Mon, 05 Sep 2022 13:57:55 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=11876 MB&F is not known for doing things by halves, and when it comes to their more “traditional watch” styled Legacy Machine models, this is no exception. With two models currently in their EVO sports line, the Perpetual EVO and Sequential EVO, it’s no surprise they are expanding this by giving the 2017 LM Split Escapement the EVO treatment!

MB&F quietly launched the LM Split Escapement EVO as a limited edition for the UAE’s 50th anniversary last year, available exclusively at the MB&F M.A.D.Gallery in Dubai. Off the back of its success, they have decided to make the LM Split Escapement EVO available worldwide, in a different execution, with an icy-cool light blue dial plate that is finished with a spiral sunburst design and grey sub-dials.

In addition, MB&F is also releasing a limited edition of 25 pieces reserved for their MB&F LAB opening soon in Beverly Hills. With a black dial plate and metallic blue subdials, this version is almost a reverse of the standard LM Split Escapement EVO, with the darker dial perfectly contrasting with the white strap in rubber. 

MB&F say this is the first of a series of limited editions reserved exclusively for MB&F LABs, a new retail format building on the success of MB&F’s M.A.D.Galleries, but adapted to spaces not quite large enough to host a full-fledged gallery. This year they plan to open MB&F LABs in Paris, Singapore and Beverly Hills.

Prior to developing the EVO line, the Legacy Machines, whilst works of art and mechanically stunning, were less robust and not really designed for outdoor activities. A realisation that Max Busser came to when not being able to take his LM swimming. From this, the LM EVO line was born in 2020 in the form of the LM Perpetual EVO, featuring 80 metres of water resistance, a screw-down crown, an integrated rubber strap, Super-LumiNova on display and a bezel-free design. 

But the EVO concept goes deeper: inside the case, the movement is suspended thanks to a world-premiere, shock-absorbing “FlexRing” system, dampening the kind of vertical and horizontal shocks that come with real-life adventures. Following on from this, the EVO case now appears further in the Legacy Machine collection: most recently with MB&F’s first-ever chronograph, the LM Sequential EVO.

Whilst the EVO line keeps the heart and essence of the original LM models, the colours, integrated rubber strap and movement modifications really set them apart, and this continues in the new LM Split Escapement EVO.

In addition to the EVO treatment, the LM Split Escapement EVO features another modification compared to the original LM Split Escapement: the entire mechanism is rotated clockwise by 30 degrees, radically changing the symmetry of the watch and giving it a new character. At first glance, the asymmetrical configuration may take some off guard, but it works, with the main dial set to the right, drawing the eye to it with the bridges of the flying balance wheel framing it nicely.

Whilst some MB&F Legacy Machines can be quite busy and not as easy to read, such as the LM Perpetual – a marvel and work of art in its own right, the LM Split Escapement EVO is clean, good looking and easy to read at a glance – which is exactly what a sports watch should be. The other nice design aspect is the screw-down crown positioned at 4 O’Clock, rather than 3, stopping it from rubbing or digging into the back of the hand like some watches tend to do.

Under the hood (or dome in this case), The LM Split Escapement EVO has a manual-wind movement, comprising of 298-components. The Stephen McDonnell calibre is driven by double barrels providing 72 hours of power reserve and features a user-friendly, foolproof rapid date-changing system.

Flipping the watch over, you will find a special darkened treatment on the movement side, creating heightened contrast between the wheels, the rhodium-plated barrels, and the rose gold details. This, according to MB&F, symbolically echoes the contrast between the active, contemporary nature of the EVO collection and the traditional finishing of the movement. Interestingly, MB&F is one of only a handful of artisanal brands that continue to finish components painstakingly by hand, making the view of the movement as mesmerising as the dial. And based on the first photos released, it does not disappoint.

Both versions are finished in grade 5 Titanium, combining polished and brushed surfaces with an integrated rubber strap, spiral sunburst dial and asymmetrical main and sub-dial layout. Each pays homage to the MB&F Legacy Machine line but with a clean, sporting look that is both complex and subtle at the same time.

The retail price of the LM Split Escapement EVO and limited Beverly Hills Edition (this being sold exclusively in that location) is $75,000 CHF + VAT or around $112,000 AUD with the current exchange rate.*

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MB&F – Forward Motion at the M.A.D Gallery https://www.watchadvice.com.au/7653/mbf-forward-motion-at-the-m-a-d-gallery/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/7653/mbf-forward-motion-at-the-m-a-d-gallery/#respond Tue, 08 Dec 2020 14:24:22 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=7653 The MB&F M.A.D (Mechanical Art Devices) Gallery was founded by the Swiss watchmaker, where Horological Machines reign supreme. It was first created as a way to showcase the brand’s Horological and Legacy Machines, however, along the way they found that there is so much more mechanical art in the world around us. So MB&F went about collecting some of the finest Mechanical art and machines to show to the general public. Feels almost like a Da Vinci style laboratory. 

MB&F Founder and Creator Maximilian Büsser say that the gallery was created because “We saw the M.A.D.Gallery as the perfect platform to showcase our own Machines as well as other pieces of kinetic art by other creators whom we greatly admire. MB&F create Machines that tell the time, not to tell the time. They are unique examples of mechanical horology but, more than that, they are pieces of three-dimensional kinetic art. The same goes for all the creators featured in the gallery: their craft transcends a practical purpose and their creations assume the status of artworks. Thanks to the M.A.D.Gallery, we are meeting like-minded artists operating in parallel worlds; people who think like us and share our passion for creating mechanical art.”

Pedro Sanches de Movellán

One of the latest collections to hit the M.A.D Gallery is the “Forward Motion”. This collection is made up of some remarkable kinetic artworks by American artist Pedro Sanches de Movellán. Pedro Sanches de Movellán has always had a passion for creativity and even more so for kinetic art. He states that “Ever since I was a boy, I loved making things, fixing things, and figuring out how things work. There was something about this triad that has stayed in me over the years,” the artist shares. “One of the first explorations of balance involved finding a way to balance a stick on a rock and have it seesaw gently up and down. Something about that captivated me.” 

Pedro-De-Movellan Studio

The kinetic pieces in Pedro’s collection all have different timelines from design to the construction stage, which at the most can take up to 6 months for completion. The artist states that “Most of the time, the challenge is making a sculpture that moves incredibly gracefully and light as a feather, yet remains strong and durable.”

“Flying Dutchman”

The Flying Dutchman is made up of five oblong shapes that sweep and loop around. Very similar to the motion of a rollercoaster, the Flying Dutchman takes everyone that sees the presence of this artwork for a wild ride, as it speeds up for a small amount of time before slowing down to gain momentum. This artwork stands at 88.9cm (35 inches) tall and is made up of black-anodized, nickel-plated aluminum and stainless steel material. 

“Dihedral Green”

Similar in design and construction to the “Flying Dutchman”, the Dihedral Green is smaller in size yet moves just as elegantly. Dihedral Green spins two arms with teardrop-shaped extensions, with the brushed surfaces having a mint powder-coated edge. 

“Lunette”

Creating what seems like choreographed movements, “Lunette” adds an extra dimension to Pedro Sanches de Movellán’s work. The artist has carefully and strategically placed six arms that have spinning teardrops on one axis, which when in movement creates quite the dazzling show.

 This kinetic sculpture is roughly 91.4cm (36 inches) tall. Pedro has used materials such as brass, stainless steel, and brushed aluminum which has a rich green powder-coated edge.

This green powder-coated edge is what makes the choreographed motion of movement stand out to the viewer, as they see the endless geometric patterns unfolding in this work of art. 

“Halcyon”

The Halcyon is an artwork that is resembling of a kaleidoscope. In this artwork, de Movellán has positioned four golden arms which end in open-worked circles and crescent shapes that fluidly fluctuate with one another creating an evolving scene of shapes. The golden finish of the shapes against the deep black backdrop provides a rich contrast to this artistic movement. The movement of this kinetic piece is powered by electricity. 

This artwork is made up of powder-coated aluminum, acrylic paint on aluminum, powder-coated brass, and stainless steel materials. The Halycon measures 86.4cm (34 inches) in height. 

“Ephemeri”

Ephemeris is certainly a unique artwork that hangs on the wall. This animated composition has an open structure that shows colour depending on the angle that it is seen. This round piece measures 40.6cm (16 inches) in diameter and makes use of aluminum semicircles which are powder coated in black. These semi-circles swing and turn into each other as if they are on a collision course! 

The aesthetic beauty of this piece is enhanced with each of the shapes having accents in vibrant red lighting gel sheet, which is primarily used to change or filter the colour of light. 

“Eclipse”

Eclipse is another special piece of art that through sound and motion encapsulates the hypnotic power of kinetic art. The artwork is powered by a weighted pendulum which moves gracefully thanks to the time-portioning escapement; a clutch bearing that only allows forward movement. Once the movement has begun though, the arm swings in a circular motion, mimicking the motions of hands on a clock. This artwork measures 76cm (30 inches) wide and 86cm (34 inches) tall and makes use of bold gold leaf accents to really make it stand out. 

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MB&F and H.Moser & Cie Collaboration https://www.watchadvice.com.au/5189/mbf-and-h-moser-cie-collaboration/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/5189/mbf-and-h-moser-cie-collaboration/#respond Wed, 03 Jun 2020 10:00:19 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=5189 Through shared values and friendship between two passionate personalities, comes this story of two iconic watch brands building an extraordinary project together. H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F have for the past ten years been working together alongside Precision Engineering AG, which is a sister company of H. Moser & Cie. Precision Engineering AG has been working with MB&F’s to supply their balance springs. The two companies are now co-signing two new creations that embody the central DNA and characteristics of both brands, to create exceptional timepieces for the devotees of the fine art of watchmaking. 

Initially, it started with MB&F asking Edouard Meylan, the CEO of H. Moser & Cie., to take part as a “friend” to help create a Performance Arts Piece. Maximilian Büsser, CEO of MBF said that “When I called Edouard to tell him that I wanted to collaborate on a creation, I mentioned that I really liked the double balance-spring, the Moser fumé dials and the Concept watch series. Edouard immediately told me that he would let me borrow these features, but on condition that he could also reinterpret one of my machines. After an initial moment of surprise, I gave it some thought. Being 50% Indian and 50% Swiss, I am firmly convinced that mixing DNA creates interesting results, so why not try the experiment in watchmaking? I therefore agreed and suggested the FlyingT model, which is particularly dear to my heart.”

Maximilian Busser and Edouard Meylan

H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F have jointly created two exceptional timepieces, Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser × MB&F and the LM101 MB&F × H. Moser, which are available in several versions, with each version being a 15-piece limited series. The reason the two brands decided to do a 15-piece limited series was that it was a celebration of the 15th anniversary of MB&F, while also honouring the 15th anniversary of the relaunch of H. Moser & Cie. 

The two timepieces are created in a way such that the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon is H. Moser & Cie. creation which draws on MB&F concepts, while the LM101 is MB&F’s creation that draws on H. Moser & Cie. concepts. This way, both brands retain their base ideologies while dipping into the concepts of the partner to create something unique and truly special.  

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon – H. Moser × MB&F

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser X MB&F Funky Blue fumé dial

H. Moser & Cie. has used a concept that’s integral to MB&F to create the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon; three-dimensional movements. The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon is protected by a sapphire dome which is well known to MB&F watches, and also features a one-minute flying tourbillon which appears above the dial through an opening located at the 12 o’clock position. H. Moser & Cie’s sister company Precision Engineering AG have helped fit the tourbillon with a cylindrical balance spring, much similar to one developed by Precision Engineering AG for MB&F’s LM Thunderdome timepiece. 

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser X MB&F Cosmic Green fumé dial

Another iconic concept that MB&F is known for is the tilted dials. The tilted dial concept is created in a way so that only the owner of the watch can truly know the time. Inclined at 40°, the tilted dial is mounted on a conical gear train, which makes sure that there is an optimal torque transmission output from one plane to the other. Moser & Cie. has used the tilted dial on the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon for the hour and minute subdial. H. Moser & Cie’s logo has been inscribed into the sapphire crystal dial as like a watermark feature, to not obstruct the beauty of the dial. This is enclosed in a 42mm steel case, with a crown at the 9 o’clock position bearing the “M” engraving. 

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser X MB&F Burgundy fumé dial

Edouard Meylan explained in regards to using a sapphire domed dial; “We have Moserized the MB&F universe by developing a sapphire subdial, which melts into the background so as to highlight the beauty of our fumé dials. And to preserve the purity and elegance of this true work of horological art, we have inscribed our logo like a watermark on the sapphire subdial, thereby underlining the personal character and intimate relationship binding it to its owner”. 

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser X MB&F Off-White fumé dial

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon comes equipped with H. Moser & Cie’s 810 three-dimensional automatic manufacture calibre. The movement comes with a total of 184 components and a frequency of 21, 600 vibrations/hour.

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser X MB&F

The movement features an automatic bi-directional pawl winding system and gives out a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon features an open case-back where you can see this movement in action. The oscillating weight is a skeletonised 18-carat gold piece, which has the H. Moser & Cie logo engraved into it. 

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser X MB&F Ice Blue fumé dial

The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon comes in five different versions which all feature a variety of fumé dials from Funky Blue, Cosmic Green, Burgundy, Off-White to Ice Blue dials. 

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser X MB&F Funky Blue fumé dial

LM101 MB&F × H. Moser

LM101 MB&F x H.Moser Funky Blue fumé dial

MB&F have decided to revisit one of their famous models, the Legacy Machine 101, as the base concept for the collaborative project with H. Moser & Cie. 


LM101 MB&F x H.Moser Yas Marina Blue fumé dial

Being of MB&F’s purest and simplest timepieces in their collection, the Legacy Machine 101 represents the very essence of fine watchmaking; the balance wheel, the power reserve and the showcasing of time. Staying true to the concepts of H. Moser & Cie., MB&F have opted to use a “back to basics” approach, by removing the brand’s logo and going back to the early days of horology where only the movement was signed. The LM101 MB&F × H. Moser sits in a 40mm stainless steel 316 casing for all of its four limited edition variants. 

LM101 MB&F x H.Moser Red fumé dial

For the LM101 MB&F × H. Moser, MB&F have done away with the floating domed subdials and simply displayed the hours and minutes along with the 45-hour power reserve indicator by using hands on the main dial. As is the core concept of the Legacy Machine 101, the large suspended balance wheel still takes centre stage. The balance wheel is redesigned for the LM101 MB&F × H. Moser so that the beauty of the fumé dial can be fully expressed. The suspended balance wheel is the beating heart of the piece and is the quintessence of watchmaking for Maximilian Büsser. H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company Precision Engineering AG have provided MB&F with a double balance spring for the suspended balance wheel. In MB&F’s continuous quest for perfection, the use of double balance spring has significantly improved precision and isochronism. 

LM101 MB&F x H.Moser Cosmic Green fumé dial

The engine inside the LM101 MB&F × H. Moser is a three-dimensional horological movement, which is developed entirely in-house by MB&F. The movement has a total of 221 components and has a frequency of 18, 000 bph/2.5hz. There is a quite a few fine finishing touches which include superlative 19th century-style hand finishing, internal bevel angles, polished bevels, Geneva waves, hand-made engravings and NAC black bridges. 

LM101 MB&F x H.Moser Movement

The LM101 MB&F × H. Moser comes in four limited-edition variants, all featuring different fumé dials. The fumé dials include; Funky Blue fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Red fumé or the special edition “Yas Marina Blue fumé” dial made for retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. Just like the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, each of the four limited-edition variants is capped at 15 models each. 

LM101 MB&F x H.Moser Funky Blue fumé dial

The collaboration between H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F is long-standing, however with the release of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon and the LM101 MB&F × H. Moser, they have taken this partnership to a new level. The results of this collaboration have far exceeded the expectations of Edouard Meylan and Maximilian Büsser. Two different communities of watchmaking artisans and Maisons have come together to share their expertise to create something new, daring and uniquely beautiful! 

LM101 MB&F x H.Moser Red fumé dial

Australian Pricing :

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon MB&F × H. Moser – $131,000.000

LM101 MB&F × H. Moser – $79,800.00

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MB & F – Legacy Machine Thunderdome https://www.watchadvice.com.au/3804/mb-f-legacy-machine-thunderdome/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/3804/mb-f-legacy-machine-thunderdome/#respond Mon, 16 Dec 2019 02:08:11 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=3804 MB&F has collaborated for the first time with legends Eric Coudray and Kari Voutilainen to bring us a world-first for watchmaking. These two watchmakers are notoriously known for their unorthodox, jaw-dropping complications along with perfectionism of the traditional craft of watchmaking. 

MB&F’s direct task for Eric Coudraw was to initially “make a watch with the craziest and most cinematic three-axis tourbillon ever.”  This free reign to create was how the two profound watchmakers came up with the fantastic timepiece: The Legacy Machine Thunderdome. 

The name Thunderdome comes from how a thunderbolt is created and the raw power it possesses. Storms and freak atmospheric conditions are created in situations where cold and warm currents meet. In a similar fashion, when two designers with different styles meet, you can expect some sparks to fly, with the result being a truly beautiful masterpiece. 

On the blue guilloche dial, there is somewhat of spherical chaos, with gears, pinions and cages all coming together. This is the proprietary new “TriAx” mechanism which is a world-first in that it features three axes revolving at different speeds on different planes. The triple-axis rotating escapement is mesmerising with its three-axis -tow cage configuration that allows the viewer to see the full extent of Thunderdomes heart. 

Another marvel to this piece is the use of a fixed escape wheel ps the Potter escapement. Escape wheels control the rate at which energy escapes from the barrel where virtually all modern escapements are mobile escape wheels. The use of a Potter escapement (fixed escape wheel) allows for higher rotational speeds, which seems like it’s required in such a complex piece like the Legacy Machine Thunderdome. 

A Potter escapement with a tri-axial rotating mechanism in one watch is definitely a world first. Combining these two is needed; however, as the high-speed rotation spends energy quite fast. The inner cage on the tri-axial mechanism completes one turn in 8 seconds; the intermediate cage completes one rotation in 12 seconds with the outer cage doing a single rotating every 20 seconds. 

The actual watch dial on the Legacy Machine Thunderdome is at a slightly slanted angle so that it won’t interfere with the tri-axial escapement. Having dial at a slight angle also allows for better viewing when worn on the wrist. The case-back of the watch is equally as stunning as the front of the watch. The triple barrel manual winding movement thought out by Eric Coudray has been creatively visualised by Kari Voutilanen.  Between the rounded bridges, sharp hand-bevelled angles and mirrored curves, countless sessions between the two watchmakers passed before they were able to come to these finishing touches. 

A closely guarded secret in Kari Voutilanen’s workshops, he has applied his proprietary style of finish on the ratchet wheels. This finish adds a serpentine shimmer to the circular surface, which when catching light appears in sigmoid waves. This type of finishing requires years of practice and specialised tools to create. 

The Legacy Machine Thunderdome is a real masterclass eye-opener even for those true watch connoisseur who has a deep understanding of multi-axis tourbillons. The Legacy Machine Thunderdome is faster, showcased like never before and also large in size thanks to the arch of the sapphire crystal dome. 

MB&F have released the Legacy Machine Thunderdome in two limited edition variants. The first is thirty-three pieces in Platinum 950 that comes with a light-blue guilloche dial plate. The second release is ten pieces in tantalum celebrating the 40th anniversary of the Asia Pacific retail group; The Hour Glass. Five pieces from this ten-piece release have a dark-blue guilloche dial while the other five will get an inlaid aventurine dial. 

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