So instead, we present my favourite twelve picks that came out of this year’s Geneva show, from Rolex’s Daytona to Vacheron Constantin’s Retrograde update.

Ulysse Nardin Freak One

The latest update to one of the most daring timepieces created in the 21st century. This newest creation, the Freak One, comes packed with technology while still remaining durable, easy to use, and designed to be worn as a daily.

The timepiece has been given a black DLC-coated titanium case with a rose gold 5N bezel with a matching dial interior. The three signature characteristics that made the Freak an icon is retained on this timepiece: no hands, no dial, and no crown. Ulysse Nardin is aiming to make the Freak One its flagship timepiece. You can read more about this latest FREAK creation here!

TAG Heuer Carrera Date 36mm

While TAG Heuer updated quite a few of their collections, one that stood out beautifully was the new colourways for the new Carrera Date 36mm.

The vibrant pink dial is just made to stand out. The added snailed finish on the dial makes it a stunning timepiece. TAG Heuer made a bold choice to break away from the traditional colours of black, blue, or white. A choice that we think will pay off for the brand. To see more of this pink dial Carrera Date plus more, click here!

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

No list would be complete without seeing the latest update from Rolex. The Rolex Daytona is as emblematic as it gets in the world of watches. The entire range of Daytona’s got an update for this year’s Watches and Wonders.

While the update to a lot of the models in this collection seemed minor, especially aesthetically, what stood out was the 950 platinum edition. Rolex has, for the first time in a Daytona, given the timepiece an open case back. Only visible on the 950 platinum model, Rolex has given this new Daytona collection the new-generation calibre 4131 movement. Read more about this latest update to the Daytona here!

Hublot Square Bang Unico New Editions

2022 saw the release of a world-first, square-shaped Bang Unico from Hublot. This model has enjoyed a lot of success since its release, so why not bring it back with an impressive update?

This year Watches and Wonders saw Hublot unveil three new editions for their Square Bang Unico. Two models in white and black sapphire and an incredible Square Bang Unico in Sapphire. Hublot is one of the leaders of using sapphire materials in their timepiece, so it only makes sense to bring two impressive designs together. Read all about the new Square Bang Unico here!

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Retrograde

Vacheron Constantin, this year has been all about the retrograde update, with some existing collections getting this feature. One of these collections is the Overseas line.

What is already a stunning timepiece with that gorgeous blue dial, this all-new Overseas model gets the retrograde function. The retrograde display is a historical design for Vacheron Constantin, one that fits beautifully on this timepiece as is also accompanied by a moon phase indicator. Read more about this retrograde update for Vacheron’s Overseas model here!

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition

I’ve always been a fan of Montblanc’s Geosphere timepiece. The fact that you get the northern and southern hemispheres on the dial spinning in sync with the day/24hr time was always interesting to see.

Now, Montblanc has given the 1858 Geosphere a new update. Montblanc introduced a new capsule collection that pays tribute to the world’s 14 highest peaks. These mountains are all above 8000 feet and have barely any oxygen, which is the central theme in this new collection. Read more about this latest 1858 Geosphere creation from Montblanc here!

IWC Schaffhausen’s Ingenieur Automatic 40

IWC has given their Ingenieur collection a newly engineered update, which references design codes from Gerald Genta’s Ingenieur SL (ref. 1832) from the 1970s.

The new collection comes with four models, with three models being made from stainless steel and the fourth given the titanium treatment. It takes an old classic and gives it modern design features while also improving wearability and performance. All the right ingredients to make it hit in the world of watchmaking. Read more about IWC’s newest Ingenieur Automatic 40 collection here!

Cartier Skeleton Collection

While this isn’t a singular watch, the entire Cartier Skeleton collection makes it into this list. For this year’s skeleton models update, Cartier is upgrading four new collections, each with their own iconic shape and design.

The Santos-Dumont, Pasha de Cartier, Santos de Cartier, and a grand complications pocket watch are getting aesthetic and mechanical upgrades. With a flawless balance between the movement and dial, Cartier has mastered the art of making skeleton watches, more so evident through this latest collection of skeleton timepieces. Read more about this collection here!

Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton In Black Ceramic

Following on from 2022’s update for the DEFY Skyline models with the new generation of seminal El Primero high-frequency calibre movements, 2023 sees the watches get a new aesthetic upgrade.

Two models in the DEFY Skyline line get a black ceramic makeover, with one of the models being the Skeleton. Crafted entirely in black ceramic, including the bracelet, the DEFY Skyline Skeleton is one of the standout pieces in Zeniths 2023 releases. To read more about this timepiece, click here.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Bi-colour

This year, Oris has updated the Aquis collection with new colours and materials. With the combination of the coloured rubber straps, the Oris Aquis Date Calibre Bi-colour for is one of the stand-outs in the collection.

This fun summer timepiece is offered in two dial colour variations (deep blue and forest green) and has an 18-carat fold finish on the edges of the bezel and matching gold details on the dial. Oh, and did we mention that it features Oris’s incredible 5-day power reserve Calibre 400 movement? If this piques your interest, click here to read more!

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

This one for all the racing enthusiasts out there. The iconic and ageless design of the original 1963 Heuer Carrera has inspired this latest creation from the Swiss giant. With a fresh new dynamic styling, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph will be released with two dial variants: a black and blue dial.

The dial carries a lot of colour accents, with them being the gradient orange ring, a reference to racecar speedometers. Each variant of this new Carrera Chronograph has its own character; however, what’s clear is that both timepieces carry the Carrera icon into the next generation with ageless styling and high-quality movements. To find out more about this Carrera Chronograph update, click here.

Baume & Mercier Riviera 39mm Collection

Another collection of timepieces that stood out was Baume & Mercier’s 39mm Riviera line. Released as part of the celebrations of Riviera’s 50^th anniversary, this new collection is offered with different material and dial variations.

Available in either stainless steel with a smoked blue dial or smoked grey sapphire dial or titanium bezel with a smoked grey dial, this new Riviera collection features a beautiful wave transfer decoration on the dial. This latest update for the Riviera collection brings it forward to a new era while keeping all the essence of what makes this piece loved by watch aficionados. To read more about this collection, click here!

The 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date was the first ever sports diving watch for Montblanc. Now, Montblanc has unveiled a new coloured dial to join the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date collection. This timepiece now features a grey glacial pattern, based on the same glacier of the Mont-Blanc Massif.

This timepiece does give an accurate depiction of a glacier with the snow-like effect on the dial, but it feels like it may come at a cost. The grey dial background can get in the way of the visibility of the hour indices. This cracked glacial pattern is also a lot more notable on this grey dial, compared to the blue, green and black dial variants. On the other three colour-ways the glacial pattern was a bit more subtle, which would let the hour markers and hands stand out and contrast nicely.

Montblanc, however, have been smart to make the scratch patterns on the glacier more prominent towards where the hour indices lay, so that the white Super-LumiNova filled markers can stand out more. The date at 3 o’clock position blends with the grey dial background, however also stands out as the date window is unobstructed from glacial pattern.

The watch comes in a 41mm stainless steel case with a black uni-directional rotating bezel. The timepiece comes as standard on a stainless steel bracelet, however, with Montblanc’s quick strap interchangeability, the strap can be changed to the second black rubber strap with grey outline. The timepiece meets  ISO 6425 for scuba diving, and has been rated to a water depth of 300m.

The case back of the watch features an artistically created 3D relief engraving of an iceberg and a scuba diver exploring the glacial waters underneath. Depicting an image of what the watch was made for. Underneath this image lies the Montblanc MB 24.17 calibre movement. This automatic movement is able to operate at a frequency of 28, 800 (4Hz), however only gives out a power reserve of approximately 41 hours, which can seem sub standard for today’s modern timepieces.

Montblanc’s all new 1858 Iced Sea Grey Automatic Date has a striking new dial, but does the beauty of the dial get in the way of the readability of it? The glacial “scratches” on this dial is more prominent than the model’s predecessors, which certainly adds to the character and depth to the timepiece. You’ll have to try one on yourself to see the difference in this latest addition to the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date collection.

Reference: MB130793

Specification:

• Case: 41mm
• Case Material: Stainless Steel
• Dial: Grey glacier pattern dial with white luminescent rhodium-coated Arabic numerals and indexes
• Crystal: Domed glass box with double anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
• Movement: Automatic Manufacture Calibre MB 24.17
• Power reserve: Approx 41 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel bracelet or black rubber strap with grey outline.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $5,130.00 AUD

Availability: Release Date TBA

All of the models in this new Montblanc 1858 Zero Oxygen The 8000 feature several benefits for explorers that dare the impossible. Using innovative technology, Montblanc is able to ensure that there is zero oxygen inside the case. This eliminates fogging, which occurs when there is a drastic change in altitude. Having zero oxygen inside the case also prevents oxidization. The components in the movement and watch, in general, will last a lot longer too and will have greater precision over time thanks to zero oxygen.

Montblanc has given the 1858 Zero Oxygen The 8000 collection a Sfumato dark grey Glacier pattern dial which resembles the colour of the rock and ice at 8000 meters, which fades into a darker shade towards the edge of the dial. The art of Sfumato is an Italian practice used to get tones and colours to gradually shade into each other. Another aesthetic touch that is shown throughout the timepieces is the touch of orange colour. The orange colour is featured in mountaineering outfits and equipment so that the alpinists can be easily visible against snow, whilst improving their chances of being spotted in case of emergency. On the latest 1858 Geosphere Chronograph, the main touches of orange can be found on the tips of the chronograph’s second hand, sub-counter hands, and the whole hand (Greenwich reference meridian) of the two hemisphere 3D turning counters.

The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition 290 was inspired by Mark Maker Nimsdai Purja, following his record-breaking ascent to Everest with the first ever 1858 0 Oxygen timepiece back in May 2022. The 44mm timepiece comes in a titanium case and fluted bi-directional black ceramic bezel with cardinal points and has been assembled without oxygen.

The case back of the timepiece comes with a 3D coloured laser engraving which shows the list and profiles of the 14 Eight Thousander peaks according to Nimsdai. The engraving also comes with two inspirational quotes from Nimsdai and three Himalayan prayer flags for good fortune along with the words “Limited Edition”.

The dial with its Sfumato dark grey Glacier patterned dial includes the two 1858 Geosphere iconic hemisphere counters at the 6 and 12 o’clock positions, with the chronograph counters being placed at 3 and 9 o’clock positions. The Northern Hemisphere counter at 12 o’clock has 14 orange dots which mark the location of the 8000m peaks, while the outer part of the counter is day and night counters.

Montblanc has used the Calibre MB 29.27 movement to power this latest 1858 Geosphere chronograph. The movement operates at a frequency of 4Hz (28, 800 VpH) while giving out a power reserve of approximately 46 hours. The timepiece is offered on an anthracite interchangeable textile strap with a “rope” pattern. It comes with a titanium and stainless steel triple-folding clasp that also has a fine adjustment system.

A watch inspired by some of the most challenging ascents for climbers in the world, the all-new Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition 290 puts the world’s 14 highest peaks into the spotlight.

Reference: MB130811

Specification:

• Case: 44mm
• Case Material: Titanium without oxygen
• Dial: Sfumato dark grey glacier pattern dial with white luminescent black rhodium-coated Arabic numerals and indexes,
• Crystal: Scratch-resistant, domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
• Movement: Automatic Manufacture Calibre MB 29.27
• Power reserve: Approx 46 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Anthracite interchangeable textile strap with “rope” pattern and Titanium and stainless steel triple-folding clasp with fine adjustment system

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $14,970.00 AUD

Availability: Release Date TBA

1. Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 – RRP AUD 1050.00:

Why do we love this watch? This watch offers a lot for its price of AUD 1050.00. The case size of 40mm fits most wrists and comes in three honeycomb motif dial colours, white, black and blue (pictured above). Power reserve of 80 hours, which means this watch can be left alone over the weekend and come Monday, it will be ready to be worn without needing to wind it. The finishing of this watch is on par with some of the more expensive watches that cost ten times more. The single-link steel bracelet is comfortable to wear and produces an eye-catching shine. Tissot brought back an iconic 1970s design that will turn heads and is suitable for stylish dads with a busy lifestyle. Tissot offers two years international warranty on all of its watches. For more information, head over to Tissot.

2. Tudor Black Bay Pro – RRP from AUD 5010.00:

Released earlier in the year at Watches and Wonders, Black Bay Pro is an entirely new watch from the brand and became an instant hit among watch enthusiasts. The polished and satin-finished steel case (39mm in size) and riveted bracelet are made for everyday use. We like this watch for three reasons. 1. Great power reserve – at 70 hours, perfect for everyday use. 2. Dual timezone feature, which showcases two time zones simultaneously. 3. Rapid adjustment on the clasp, meaning on hot days, watch bracelet adjustment can be made on the go! Tudor Black Bay Pro is offered in three strap choices, a steel bracelet AUD 5430.00 (left), a Hybrid strap AUD 5010.00 (centre) and a Fabric strap AUD 5010.00 (right). Tudor offers five years warranty on all of their watches. Compact, sport and robust, this watch is great for adventurous dads. To find out more, head over to Tudor.

3. Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph 7741- RRP from AUD 5,695.00

Raymond Weil’s Freelancer collection was upgraded earlier in the year with the addition of Chronograph 7741. The latest improvements include a bigger case size of 43.5mm, a clean dial layout and a ceramic bezel with a tachymeter scale. The Tri-compax Chronograph is offered in a selection of dial configurations, and our favourite is the green (pictured above). Powered by the calibre RW5030, which generates a power reserve of 56hours and is showcased through an exhibition case-back. The freelancer 7741 combines classic and modern design cues to create a handsome timepiece suitable for a dad who loves his classics! Raymond Weil offers three years of international warranty on the freelancer models. For more information, visit Raymond Weil.

4. Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar- RRP from AUD 48,600.00:

First announced during 2022 Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar is one of the most beautifully executed perpetual calendars in the current market. The 42mm case (offered in steel and red gold) has a graduated blue lacquered dial with four counters that showcase the date, moon phase, date, month and year. This particular perpetual calendar does not need any manual adjustments on the counters till the year 2100.

Another feature we like in this model is the quick changing straps. You can change from a steel bracelet to a rubber strap within seconds. Powered by in-house calibre 868, which generates a power reserve of over 70 hours. Sporty and complicated, this watch is a perfect addition to a seasoned watch collector dad. Jaeger-LeCoultre offers eight years of warranty on all their watches. For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

5. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver – RRP AUD 9650.00

One of the most exciting releases from the brand in 2022 is the Aquaracer 1000 Super diver. Geared towards the professional divers, this timepiece is made for the deep waters. Grade 5 titanium case measuring 45mm and with a thickness of 15.75mm, the robust case is designed to withstand the pressures at 1000 meters below sea level, equipped with a helium valve to prevent damage upon decompression. The simple and highly legible dial comes alive at night. TAG Heuer teamed up with the swiss movement manufacturer to exclusively create the movement TH30-00 for the Superdiver, which produces a power reserve of 70 hours. The Superdiver comes with five years of international warranty. The Superdiver boasts sporty elegance and will be suitable for an adventurous and daring dad, particularly water lovers. For more information, visit TAG Heuer.

6. Breitling Navitimer B01 70th Anniversary – RRP from AUD 12090.00

Earlier this year, Breitling celebrated the 70th anniversary of the legendary Navitimer. With that, Breitling brought out their latest versions of the Navitimers. Offered in 46mm, 43mm and 41mm case sizes and vibrant dial choices, there is sure to be a model that will cater for every dad! Noticeable changes for the new Navitimers include the new in-house B01 movement with a power reserve of 70 hours (showcased on the caseback), the new AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association) wings logo replacing the old Breitling logo and new vibrant shades dials, notably the blue (pictured above) green and Copper. The watch can be worn with either bracelet or leather strap. A five-year warranty is offered on the in-house movement Breitling watches. The new Navitimer would be a great gift for the stylish and classy dad. For more information, visit Breitling.

7. Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date- RRP from AUD 4,470.00

Montblanc entered the diver watch category earlier in the year with their first ever diver – The 1858 Iced sea Automatic Date. Starting price of AUD 4470.00 for the 41mm steel case on the rubber strap is a great value for the price point. Three things we like about the new dive watch. 1. Quick change strap change system with fine adjustment system 2. The dial was inspired by the glaciers of the Montblanc massif and produced in an ancestral technique called “gratté-boisé”. 3. Unidirectional bi-colour Ceramic bezel that matches the dial. 1858 Iced sea Automatic date is offered in three dial variations, black, green and blue (pictured). Stylish from every angle, Montblanc’s first-ever diver watch is a great addition to any dad’s watch collection or his first-ever swiss watch. Montblanc offers two years of international warranty on all their watches. For more information, head over to Montblanc.

Every watch manufacturer has a timepiece that’s iconic to the brand. The Royal Oaks, Submariners, Daytonas, El Primeros, Navitimers, and Speedmasters are all watches that are well known for their respective brands. Can the new 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date be one of those watches for Montblanc? 

This new 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date certainly has an element of uniqueness to it. What makes this watch stand out is the new “frozen” dial. When the designers at Montblanc wanted to create a new divers watch, they went for the extreme. While most other watch manufacturers would go to the world’s tropical waters for their diver’s watch inspiration, Montblanc went straight to the glacial lakes of the Mont-Blanc Massif. 

The designers ascended the Chamonix Valley to the Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice), where they were fascinated by the texture of the glacial ice. The interlocking network of crystals that have been frozen in time for millennia inspired the design of this new 1858 timepiece. 

It’s one thing to have an idea and another to execute. The Montblanc designers had to figure out a way to get what they had seen at the glaciers onto the dial of this new 1858 model. Certainly, no easy task, as the designers had to create the illusion of looking into the depth of a glacier onto a watch dial that measures approximately 0.5mm! Montblanc achieved this through an ancestral technique called gratté boisé, used as the base of the dial. 

Design:

Montblanc’s 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date comes in a stainless steel 41mm case with curved horns with polished and satinated finishing. The knurled ceramic uni-directional bezel has the same colour finishing as the dial, accompanied by large bezel markings in contrasting white. 

The watch is offered in three colour variants; a vivid polished charcoal blue dial, a charcoal green, and a charcoal black dial. The dial is kept relatively simple, with only the date window at 3 o’clock being the extra feature. This is the perfect design for this watch. Being a diver’s watch, the dial is kept bare to allow for easy readability and to showcase the glacial ice dial design.

The white hour indices and large minute and hour hands contrast beautifully against all three colour variants. This certainly helps with readability. Our pick of the three colour variants has to be the blue dial. Seeing this colour in person is just something else! It draws your attention from afar, making you want to see more, only to be nicely surprised by the beauty of that blue glacial dial up close.

Montblanc offers three watches with two bracelet options. These can be changed quickly without using any tools, meaning no more painful scratches on the inside of the lugs. A standard stainless-steel bracelet option that features a 20-16mm taper to have a more snug fit on the wrist or a rubber strap that matches the colour of the dial (except the green dial variant offered in a black rubber strap). The stainless-steel bracelet can also be adjusted on the go without any tools. While the stainless-steel bracelet gives the watch a more luxury appeal, the rubber strap makes this timepiece stand out and practical for everyday use (we will cover more later).

Movement:

The movement used on these new 1858 models is Montblanc’s Mb24.17/SW200 automatic movement. Operating at 4hz (28, 800 VpH), this movement also gives a power reserve of approximately 41 hours. The watch’s case is rated to a water resistance of 30bar (300m), which is quite decent for a diving watch. Being a divers watch, the 1858 Ice Sea has a closed caseback. However, the caseback features an artistically 3D relief engraving of an Iceberg and a scuba diver exploring the glacier waters below. The depth and realism of the 3D relief image are achieved by the metal being structured by a laser.

How does it wear?

On paper having the dimensions of 41mm for the case size, the thickness of 12.9mm, and the lug to lug of 51mm looks promising for a divers watch, and it did. For a 6.5-inch wrist (16.5cm), the watch sat well balanced and weighed just 126 grams, making it comfortable to wear for longer periods.

Having this watch over a week-long period meant we had ample time to test it out. This watch was used for day-to-day activities during this time, and we are happy to report that it didn’t disappoint. From morning exercise to mid-day office meetings, running errands around the city to picking up groceries. This watch complemented any attire worn. What caught us by surprise was the dial and how playful it gets when outdoors. If you catch a glimpse of the dial under the sunlight, you will notice the depth of the glacier, that Montblanc has tried to recreate.

The only downside we saw during this time was the power reserve. With just 41 hours of power reserve, if you were to use this watch in rotation with other watches, you would have to most likely wind the watch next time you put it on.

Closing thoughts:

Montblanc’s first diver has a lot of potential, it ticks a lot of the right boxes for a diver’s watch. Does this watch have the potential to be a daily beater? Absolutely. This watch will fit most wrist sizes considering the dimensions, especially the lug to lug and thickness. The quick change straps means one can get more use out of this timepiece in any environment. Here is a short video that showcase how easy it is to change the straps.

Divers watch segment is a competitive market and the price point set for the Iced Sea Automatic Dates, is a big plus for the Montblanc diver. We showed some fellow watch enthuisiasts the Iced Sea, and asked them what they think the price point would be, and they were pleasantly surprised to find out that the rubber strap version cost $4470.00 AUD and $4800.00 AUD for the steel bracelet version. We feel as though, in current times, some collectors consider pricing before looking at a watch in more detail. This is where the 1858 Iced sea shines well. In the current market, we had a hard time finding another Divers watch with similar characteristics and price point to the 1858 Iced Sea.

To answer the question raised at the beginning, “will the 1858 Iced Sea become an icon for Montblanc?” It certainly has all the right characteristics to become one. We will just have to wait and see.

Reference: 129369

Specification:

• Case: 41 mm, Lug-Lug 51mm and thickness 12.9mm
• Case Material: Stainless steel case with curved horns featuring polished and satinated finishing
• Dial: Polished charcoal blue coloured, lacquered dial with icy impression, rhodium coated and blue coloured luminescent applied Arabic numerals, rhodium coated and blue coloured luminescent cathedral shaped hour and minute hands Black date on white background
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating inside
• Water resistance: 300 meters
• Movement: MB 24.17/SW200
• Power reserve: 41 Hours
• Bracelet: Interchangeable stainless steel bracelet/Blue Rubber strap with double deployant buckle and adjustable strand (20-16mm)

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $4470 AUD for the Rubber strap and $4800 AUD for the Steel Bracelet

Availability: Available now. Enquire from your nearest Montblanc Boutique

Since that time brands have sought to have a piece catch the attention of the watch buying public with their own green dialed offerings. Here are some of those timepieces that we at watchadvice find most intriguing and alluring. 

Oris Aquis date

Perhaps the closest thing visually to the Rolex Hulk, without reaching into the murky waters of homage watches, the Oris Aquis date offers an intriguing alternative for a staggeringly modest price. Available in either 39.5mm or 43.5mm the Aquis covers its bases nicely to ensure wearability for the buyer. 

The Oris offers many higher end features, water resistance of 300m, ceramic bezel insert, sapphire crystal and an automatic swiss movement. The Aquis also offers a raft of strap options, including leather, rubber and stainless-steel bracelet, all fitted to the integrated lugs of the watch.

The Oris Aquis date can be purchased today for $3,100.00 AUD.

Panerai Radiomir PAM 995

Jumping up in price we find one of the best looking Panerai pieces in their vast collection of historical dive watches. The PAM 995 showcases a stunning green dial reminiscent of old school military drab uniforms. The watch at 45mm features a water resistance of 100m, and also showcases the in house micro rotor automatic calibre p.4000 movement, beneath its clear sapphire case back. 

The use of the signature Radiomir case and sandwich dial, accentuates the luminous Arabic numerals and produces a timeless design for an RRP of $16,200.00 AUD.

Breitling B01 Bentley British racing green

Moving into more complicated green dialed offerings, we find the exceptional Breitling B01 Bentley. The watch features a gorgeous sunburst British racing green dial, accented by black sub registers. 

An automatic chronograph boasting an impressive 70 hours power reserve, the B01 calibre is a stand out performer for its finish and durability. The watch comes in at 42mm by 13.5mm and again features 100m water resistance and a sapphire case back from which to enjoy the manufacture movement.

The B01 Bentley is an excellent contender for an everyday timepiece and with an RRP of $11,250.00 AUD.

Glashuette Original Panomatic lunar Green

Stepping into a world of higher end watchmaking, we find the Glashuette Original Panomatic lunar, available for 2020 with a deep forest green dial. A truly spectacular offering from the German brand, whilst not one for the wet only availing 50 metres of water resistance, the Panomatic lunar showcases some top end finishing and class.

The classically German asymmetric dial features a Grande date and moon phase complication, driven by the exquisitely finished calibre 90-02 movement. Through the sapphire case back the owner is treated to a ¾ style skeletonised rotor, expertly executed Glasshuette striping and a hand engraved balance bridge. 

The Panomatic lunar is available for purchase from $14,350.00 AUD.

Rado Captain cook automatic

A reissue of the classic design from 1962, Rado released their modern interpretation of the captain cook automatic to immediate popularity amongst collectors. The watch features a distinctive swirling sunray effect dial helping it to stand out in a sea of similarly priced divers. 

Truly an everyday timepiece the Rado is contemporarily sized at 42mm and is rated to 300m. Available on a stainless steel bracelet, leather or fabric straps, the Rado features a quick change system ensuring ease of use when switching up the looks.

The Rado Captain Cook automatic is available for just $3,550.00 AUD.

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 

Another watch leaning heavily into two current market trends, the 1858 Geosphere offers a military inspired green dial, wrapped beautifully in a polished and satin finished 42mm bronze case. 

The timepiece features a manufacture world time complication that turns the two domed globes on the dial in opposite directions over the course of 24 hours. World time scales are positioned around the globes featuring 24 time zones and day night indications to boot. The geosphere is by no means a slight watch with a substantial 42mm x 12.8mm profile, this is a watch that defiantly packs a visual punch and with the bronze case, it is a watch that will uniquely patina with use.

The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere in bronze can be purchased for $9,680.00 AUD.

Nomos Orion Neomatik olive gold

Hailing from Germany, Nomos is a truly special brand in the watch industry. Offering exquisitely crafted Bauhaus timepieces at modest price points. Recently the Nomos Orion family has been upgraded, receiving new movements and new colourways.

Here, the Orion Neomatik olive gold showcases a subtle yet alluring olive dial, accented with gold hour markers and hands. The Calibre DUW6101 showcases some of the best German movement manufacturing outside of A Lange and Sohne, with Nomos’ patented swing system, the updated calibre also now features a larger date wheel set around the movement which can be set in either direction.

Available for purchase now for $6,090.00 AUD.

The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Blue was created as a dedication to the holy grail of mountaineering; the world’s Seven Summit mountaineering challenge. This Seven Summit challenge is arguably the most difficult of mountaineering quests, where climbers must set out to ascend the highest mountains from each summit. These summits are what gave the inspiration for Montblanc’s 1858 Geospheres new look, with the colours of glaciers and ice that range from the purest white colour to the deepest blue. The Seven Summits and Mont Blanc is shown on the dial of the watch, where it is marked out on the two turning globes by blue dots

The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Blue comes in a 42mm casing, which being made from grade 5-titanium makes it robust and durable thanks to the material’s resistance to superficial scratches. On the wrist, the watch won’t feel too heavy thanks to the material being lightweight. The grade 5-titanium has low thermal conductivity properties as well and has a dark finish, matching the overall dark tones through the watch. The bezel is fluted and bi-directional with a blue ceramic insert. Engraved onto the insert is four luminescent cardinal points.

The dial on this timepiece is an attention-grabbing smokey blue colour, providing a perfect backdrop for the main elements on the dial. The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Blue has icy white hands and indexes, which also include the Arabic numerals. These designs are kept the same as the normal Geosphere in the 1858 collection. The two globes are done in the same icy white colour as well, which certainly makes them stand out against the blue dial. Another impressive feature which is retained from the original Geosphere model is that the indexes, hands, hemisphere globes and compass indications have all been coated with white SuperLumiNova material. This is undoubtedly something to gaze at when the lights are off, as the watch truly does come alive

Montblanc has used the Automatic movement Calibre MB 29.25 for the 1858 Geosphere Blue. The Calibre MB 29.25 allows for the second timezone, anti-clockwise rotation of the Northern hemisphere globe, clockwise rotation of the Southern hemisphere globe, date function along with the operation of the regular hour and minute hands. The Calibre MB 29.25 movement produces approximately 42 hours of power reserve. The case back of the watch is engraved with a unique drawing of the Mont Blanc mountain, two crossed ice pick-axes and also a compass. The words “SPIRIT OF MOUNTAIN EXPLORATION” is also inscribed into the case back. 

To finish off the overall blue look to the timepiece, Mont Blanc has given the 1858 Geosphere Blue a blue Sfumato alligator strap with white stitching or stainless steel bracelet options. All elements of the watch come to give an icy cold feeling to the watch, while also retaining the modern look of the iconic 1858 Geosphere.

Australian Pricing:

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Reference 125565 – $9,100.00

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Reference 125567 – $9,600.00

Availability: Available now

The 1858 Geosphere Limited Edition certainly displays these features as the model was specifically created in dedication to the world’s Seven Summit mountaineering challenge, which is the peak of mountaineering adventures. The 1858 Geosphere Limited Edition is a variation of Montblanc’s original 1858 Geosphere released back in 2018. The significant differences between the models being colour variations to tie the limited edition towards the Minerva Collection. 

Montblanc’s 1858 Geosphere Limited Edition comes in a 42mm satin-finished and polished bronze casing. The dial colour along with the bezel insert is done in Khaki green which resembles the watch’s connection to nature. The watch also features North, South, East and West on the four quadrants of the bezel, further emphasizing the timepiece’s references for exploration. 

The exciting feature about this watch, however, is the world-time complication which features two domed globes (one for Northern Hemisphere and other for Southern Hemisphere) that turn in opposite directions to each other. Each globe completes a full rotation within 24 hours. Both globes have a 24-hour indication around it, with a day and night feature done in contrasting colours for easy readability. 

The use of two globes certainly gives a different aspect to reading two different timezones and is enhanced further visually through the use of Superluminova on the continents for some seriously impressive lumination at night time. 

Powering the Montblanc’s 1858 Geosphere Limited Edition and its two impressive globes is the Calibre MB 29.25 movement. The Calibre MB 29.25 movement is based on the original Sellita SW300-1 which Montblanc has now fitted an in-house module to feature world-time complication. The automatic self-winding movement beats at roughly 28, 800 Bph at 4Hz, and gives out a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. 

Montblanc’s 1858 Geosphere Limited Edition certainly is a piece that demands attention and sparks a sense of lust for travelling when worn. Containing a new in-house developed movement from Montblanc, there aren’t many watches out there if any that feature the impressive dual globe layout. The colour scheme of Bronze and Green makes the watch look very lively, with the 1858 GeoSphere Limited Edition’s most eye-catching feature being the illumination of the globes at night time. 

The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Limited Edition certainly is a great piece to consider if you want a different take on a dual timezone watch. With a price of $9, 340 AUD, this piece is limited to 1858 pieces. 

In 1920, Minerva designed and produced one of the first manually wound mono-pusher chronograph watches. This was thanks to the smaller movements made available by the brand. The watches made during the 1920’s and 1930’s period by Minerva was used widely for military use and exploration. So why is it that Montblanc is paying tribute to another watch manufacture’s collection?

It has  to do with Montblanc’s parent company; Richemont Group. Richemont Group acquired Minerva Manufacture in 2006 and wanted one of the watch brands owned by Richemont to work alongside Minerva. Each brand presented their case with Montblanc being the most impressive and ultimately was successful in being able to work with Minerva. Minerva’s entire production became available to Montblanc. This is why Montblanc’s 1858 collection was released, as a way of honouring the Minerva Manufacture. 

The Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph limited edition is a piece that is designed with mountain exploration in mind. With the green and bronze hues shown throughout the watch, it reflects the colours found in nature and mountains alike.  

The 1858 Automatic Chronograph limited edition comes in a 42mm casing that is made from bronze material. The dial colour is a khaki green, which contrasts really well against the bronze casing. To make readability on the watch easier, Montblanc has decided to use beige coloured Arabic numerals for the indexes along with similar coloured hands for the hour, minute chronograph seconds hand and the hands on the two counters. The rail-road minute track and the two counters have been done on a white colour so they stand our clearly against the khaki background. The two counters represent the 30 minute counter at the 3 o’clock position and the constant second counter at the 9 o’clock position. 

Montblanc’s original logo from 1930 is also displayed on the dial under the 12hour marker, with the Montblanc mountain in between the words Mont-Blanc. This is to further emphasise what this watch is. A testament to a nice design feature by Montblanc is the intricate creation of the hour and minute hands. These hands have been designed in a cathedral shaped “cloisonne” manor with a slightly domed finish as described by Montblanc. 

The movement thats used in the Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph limited edition is the MB25.11 calibre. This calibre is based on the Sellitea SW-510 ETA movement and has been modified so that the two sub-dials/counters can be featured on the watch.  The MB 25.11 calibre movement has been tested and certified by Montblanc Laboratory Test 500 and has a power reserve of approximately 48 hours.

WatchAdvice’s Thoughts

The new Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph limited edition showcases its roots to the past while still having a modern and contemporary design with design cues expressing nature and mountain exploration. This watch is a very unique collectors item that is limited to 1858 pieces. 

As mentioned earlier, the colours used throughout the watch compliment each other very nicely, with the contrast between the beige and white on the khaki background making the dial really stand out.

The watch comes with a modern nato strap in a more darker green colour which complement the beautiful dial. Unfortunately the caseback of the watch is closed off, however Montblanc has included an engraving of the Mont Blanc mountain with a vintage Montblanc compass. This is done as a tribute to the watch manufacture, Minerva. 

Inspired by the mountain explorations Montblanc’s 1858 Automatic Chronograph limited edition is sure to be a hit in 1858 line up.

Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph limited edition specification:

• Case diameter : 42mm
• Case material : Bronze
• Dial: Khaki green dial with beige luminescent Arabic numerals
• Water resistance : 100 meters/ 330 feet
• Movement : Calibre MB 25.11, Automatic, self-winding
• Power reserve : Approximately 48 hours

Australian Retail Pricing : $7,440.00

Availability : Available now, Limited edition of 1858 pieces

Enquire at local Montblanc boutiques :

• Montblanc Brisbane – 171 Edward St, Brisbane City QLD 4000
• Montblanc Melbourne – 175-177 Collins Street and Chadstone Shopping Centre
• Montblanc Sydney – 115-117 King Street, 75 Castlereagh Street and Westfield Bondi Junction
• Montblanc Perth -125 St Georges Tce