The Ahoi Neomatik line first made its appearance back in 2013, with the first models being produced in white and Atlantic blue. The models back then were made in a 38.5mm case size, the ideal size for dress watches. The Ahoi Neomatick is also easily recognisable for its large hour indices, which are a mixture of Arabic numerals and baton-style markers. Another stand-out feature of this model is the constant second’s indicator at 6 o’clock.

All of this has of course been retained in these latest versions of the Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date. These two new versions are made as the ideal companion for holiday, all-year round. Both Sky and Sand editions come in a 38.5mm stainless steel case with bipartite stainless steel back and a crown guard. What’s impressive about the case is that it’s only 10mm thick, and considering the impressive movement sitting inside this is quite an achievement. A smaller case size also means a less bulky watch and a comfortable fit overall.

The dial colours have a softened tone overall as they are a matte finish for both the sky blue and sand editions. Although the colours aren’t exactly indicative of real sand and sky colours they guide the viewer’s imagination to their ideal holiday destination. The watch also has a high water resistance of 200m, which falls into the dive watch category, however, doesn’t carry the full characteristics of a dive watch as it comes without the bezel. These Ahoi Neomatick 38 Date are designed to be all-rounders, timepieces you can wear to the boardroom, on holiday or going diving.

While both variants have the same finish on the dial, the sand-coloured dial closely depicts sand texture, which does give it a more aesthetic look. Both variants come with a large date window at 3 o’clock, with the movement allowing the date to be set forward or back. There is also plenty of luminescent on the dial, with the hour and minute hands coated in SuperLumi-Nova along with small rectangular indications for the hour indices on the minute track being coated with the material too.

The movement sitting inside these latest editions is the brand’s innovative DUW6101 automatic calibre. The movement carries quite a few features such as the brand’s proprietary escapement, NOMOS Swing system and the patented date mechanism with its quick function. The movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 VpH and is able to put out a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The DUW6101 movement isn’t new to Ahoi Neomatik, as it has been around for a while, but that doesn’t lessen how impressive it is!

Both editions come with an open case back which reveals the DUW6101 movement and its beautiful finishing, along with the skeletonised rotor. The case back also features NOMOS iconic whale sign at the top (12 o’clock position on dial). The whale sign is a quick indication that this timepiece is rated to 200m and is safe for diving.

Completing the sport look of the timepiece is the choice of strap offered by NOMOS Glashütte. Both versions come standard with a woven textile strap, with the sand edition featuring a dark grey colour and the sky version coming with a blue-black colour. These textile straps have been tailor-made for NOMOS Glashütte in France and provide a very comfortable fit, perfect for holidaying on summery shores!

These new NOMOS Glashütte summer editions are certainly great value for money as it’s a fun aesthetic diving watch with an impressive movement backing it. The open case back is also a bonus and the overall finishing on the timepiece makes it a great contender for the sub-6k price bracket. The NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date Sky and Sand can be purchased through the brand’s retail stores or through their e-commerce, however, there is a shipping time of approximately 2 months.

Reference: 516 (Sky Edition)

Specification

• Case: 38.5mm
• Case Material: Stainless Steel
• Dial: Sky blue, hour indexes with white superluminova
• Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating inside and out
• Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
• Movement: Automatic DUW6101
• Power reserve: Approx. 42 hours
• Strap: Textile strap blue-black, woven, waterproof, lug width 20 mm

Availability: July 2023, through NOMOS Glashütte E-Commerce or Retailers

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing:  6,310 AUD

Reference: 517 (Sand Edition)

Specification

• Case: 38.5mm
• Case Material: Stainless Steel
• Dial: Sand coloured, hour indexes with white superluminova
• Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating inside and out
• Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
• Movement: Automatic DUW6101
• Power reserve: Approx. 42 hours
• Strap: Textile strap dark grey, woven, waterproof, lug width 20 mm

Availability: July 2023, through NOMOS Glashütte E-Commerce or Retailers

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing:  6,310 AUD

Since that time brands have sought to have a piece catch the attention of the watch buying public with their own green dialed offerings. Here are some of those timepieces that we at watchadvice find most intriguing and alluring. 

Oris Aquis date

Perhaps the closest thing visually to the Rolex Hulk, without reaching into the murky waters of homage watches, the Oris Aquis date offers an intriguing alternative for a staggeringly modest price. Available in either 39.5mm or 43.5mm the Aquis covers its bases nicely to ensure wearability for the buyer. 

The Oris offers many higher end features, water resistance of 300m, ceramic bezel insert, sapphire crystal and an automatic swiss movement. The Aquis also offers a raft of strap options, including leather, rubber and stainless-steel bracelet, all fitted to the integrated lugs of the watch.

The Oris Aquis date can be purchased today for $3,100.00 AUD.

Panerai Radiomir PAM 995

Jumping up in price we find one of the best looking Panerai pieces in their vast collection of historical dive watches. The PAM 995 showcases a stunning green dial reminiscent of old school military drab uniforms. The watch at 45mm features a water resistance of 100m, and also showcases the in house micro rotor automatic calibre p.4000 movement, beneath its clear sapphire case back. 

The use of the signature Radiomir case and sandwich dial, accentuates the luminous Arabic numerals and produces a timeless design for an RRP of $16,200.00 AUD.

Breitling B01 Bentley British racing green

Moving into more complicated green dialed offerings, we find the exceptional Breitling B01 Bentley. The watch features a gorgeous sunburst British racing green dial, accented by black sub registers. 

An automatic chronograph boasting an impressive 70 hours power reserve, the B01 calibre is a stand out performer for its finish and durability. The watch comes in at 42mm by 13.5mm and again features 100m water resistance and a sapphire case back from which to enjoy the manufacture movement.

The B01 Bentley is an excellent contender for an everyday timepiece and with an RRP of $11,250.00 AUD.

Glashuette Original Panomatic lunar Green

Stepping into a world of higher end watchmaking, we find the Glashuette Original Panomatic lunar, available for 2020 with a deep forest green dial. A truly spectacular offering from the German brand, whilst not one for the wet only availing 50 metres of water resistance, the Panomatic lunar showcases some top end finishing and class.

The classically German asymmetric dial features a Grande date and moon phase complication, driven by the exquisitely finished calibre 90-02 movement. Through the sapphire case back the owner is treated to a ¾ style skeletonised rotor, expertly executed Glasshuette striping and a hand engraved balance bridge. 

The Panomatic lunar is available for purchase from $14,350.00 AUD.

Rado Captain cook automatic

A reissue of the classic design from 1962, Rado released their modern interpretation of the captain cook automatic to immediate popularity amongst collectors. The watch features a distinctive swirling sunray effect dial helping it to stand out in a sea of similarly priced divers. 

Truly an everyday timepiece the Rado is contemporarily sized at 42mm and is rated to 300m. Available on a stainless steel bracelet, leather or fabric straps, the Rado features a quick change system ensuring ease of use when switching up the looks.

The Rado Captain Cook automatic is available for just $3,550.00 AUD.

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 

Another watch leaning heavily into two current market trends, the 1858 Geosphere offers a military inspired green dial, wrapped beautifully in a polished and satin finished 42mm bronze case. 

The timepiece features a manufacture world time complication that turns the two domed globes on the dial in opposite directions over the course of 24 hours. World time scales are positioned around the globes featuring 24 time zones and day night indications to boot. The geosphere is by no means a slight watch with a substantial 42mm x 12.8mm profile, this is a watch that defiantly packs a visual punch and with the bronze case, it is a watch that will uniquely patina with use.

The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere in bronze can be purchased for $9,680.00 AUD.

Nomos Orion Neomatik olive gold

Hailing from Germany, Nomos is a truly special brand in the watch industry. Offering exquisitely crafted Bauhaus timepieces at modest price points. Recently the Nomos Orion family has been upgraded, receiving new movements and new colourways.

Here, the Orion Neomatik olive gold showcases a subtle yet alluring olive dial, accented with gold hour markers and hands. The Calibre DUW6101 showcases some of the best German movement manufacturing outside of A Lange and Sohne, with Nomos’ patented swing system, the updated calibre also now features a larger date wheel set around the movement which can be set in either direction.

Available for purchase now for $6,090.00 AUD.

His and Her’s from TAG Heuer:

His:

• TAG Heuer Carerra Caliber 5 Day-Date 
• Reference: WAR201B.BA0723
• Size : 41mm
• Dial: White dial with Rhodium plated indexes
• Water resistance : 100m
• Power reserve: Approximately 38 hrs
• Australian Retail Price: $3,750.00

Her’s:

• TAG Heuer Carerra Quartz
• Reference: WAR1311.BA0778
• Size : 32mm
• Dial: White mother of pearl dial with Rhodium plated indexes
• Water resistance : 100m
• Australian Retail Price: $2,100.00

His and Her’s from Oris:

His:

• Oris Big Crown Pointer Date
• Reference: 01 754 7741 4068-07 5 20 50
• Size : 40mm
• Dial: Red dial
• Water resistance : 50m
• Power reserve: Approximately 38 hrs
• Australian Retail Price: $2,200.00

Her’s:

• Oris James Morrison Academy of Music Limited Edition
• Reference: 01 733 7762 4085-SE
• Size : 38mm
• Dial: Blue dial 
• Water resistance : 30m
• Power reserve: Approximately 38 hrs
• Australian Retail Price: $3,000.00

His and Her’s from Longines:

His:

• Longines record collection
• Reference: L2.821.4.96.4
• Size : 40mm
• Dial: Sunray blue dial
• Water resistance : 30m
• Power reserve: Approximately 64 hrs
• Australian Retail Price: $2,900.00

Her’s:

• Longines record collection
• Reference: L2.321.4.96.4
• Size : 30mm
• Dial: Sunray blue dial
• Water resistance : 30m
• Power reserve: Approximately 40 hrs
• Australian Retail Price: $2,675.00

His and Her’s from Tudor:

His:

• Tudor 1926
• Reference: M91551-0001
• Size : 39mm 
• Dial: Silver, embossed decoration, domed
• Water resistance : 100m
• Power reserve: Approximately 38 hrs
• Australian Retail Price: $4,000.00

Her’s:

• Tudor 1926
• Reference: M91350-0003
• Size : 28mm 
• Dial: Silver, embossed decoration, domed, with 6 diamonds
• Water resistance : 100m
• Power reserve: Approximately 38 hrs
• Australian Retail Price: $3,150.00

His and Her’s from Nomos:

His:

• Orion Neomatik 41 Date Olive Gold
• Reference: 364
• Size : 40.5mm 
• Dial: Olive gold stamped indexes, date window at three o’clock, Hands in gold
• Water resistance : 50m
• Power reserve: Approximately 42 hrs
• Australian Retail Price: $6,090.00

Her’s

• Ludwig 33 Champagne
• Reference: 248
• Size : 32.8mm
• Dial: Galvanized, champagne gold
• Water resistance : 30m
• Power reserve: Approximately 42 hrs
• Australian Retail Price: $2,690.00

His and Her’s from Panerai:

His:

• Luminor Due 
• Reference: PAM00927
• Size : 42mm, Brushed Titanium 
• Dial: Blue sun-brushed with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers
• Water resistance : 30m
• Strap: Alligator Dark blue, Beige Stitching
• Australian Retail Price: $10,100.00

Her’s:

• Luminor Due 
• Reference: PAM00926
• Size : 38mm, Brushed Titanium 
• Dial: Blue sun-brushed with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers
• Water resistance : 30m
• Strap: Alligator Dark blue, Beige Stitching
• Australian Retail Price: $9,600.00

Brisbane – The Hour Glass

171 Edward St, Brisbane City QLD 4000

(07) 3221 9133

So is the Nomos Tangente power reserve the German watch for you?

Case

The Nomos Tangente power reserve features a stainless steel case, 35mm in circumference and only 6.6mm thick. The case itself takes an interesting shape having a raised band of steel around the center of its construction leaving depressions above and below the mid case.

This offers some visual interest to what is already a remarkably slim and slender watch. The model weighing only 40grams including the supplied leather strap, offers the wearer the opportunity to constantly forget that it’s on their wrist. 

The stainless steel is finished to a high polish on all sides. There is the presence of a typically industrial and lets face it, German no nonsense crown, which features deep cuts for easy manipulation.

Everything about the case on this watch screams German watch design, nothing is overdone, nothing is unnecessary or flamboyant. That is, until you see the lugs.

The lugs are a strong statement in design from the Glashutte manufacturer. They protrude from the case and drop sharply at 45 degrees. They give the watch a much longer stance than the 35mm case size would suggest. Because of this design choice the watch wears 44mm lug to lug.

When on the wrist I found the face of the watch appears about 2mm too small for the lugs. Although this phenomena is not new for Nomos and if it hasn’t bothered you before, it certainly wont now.

Movement

Housed within the aforementioned case is Nomos’ own calibre DUW 4301. An entirely in house manually wound movement boasting a respectable 43 hour power reserve.

And boy what a movement.

Glashutte striping, 17 jewels, Fire blued screws, Pocket watch inspired click spring and to top it all off, this calibre also features hand finishing to achieve the double spiral effect atop the ratchet wheel. 

Nomos continue to show their watchmaking prowess in their in house movements. The company even making the hairsprings fitted to its DUW calibres. 

Being hand wound a large portion of the users enjoyment of the piece comes from the interaction had when powering the mechanism. So it would be of no surprise that the Tangente has been designed with that in mind. 

There is a satisfying action to winding the timepiece that comes from the synchronicity between the crown, click and ratchet wheel. The pocket watch era click, disengages from its housing during winding and is pulled along the ratchet wheel in one of the most satisfying winds at the price point.

Nomos has delivered an excellent and well decorated movement that users can enjoy daily through the sapphire caseback.

Dial and Hands

The dial on the Tangente power reserve is an almost cream coloured off white, despite the stark white dial depicted on Nomos’ marketing material for the piece. 

The heat blued needle style hands are beautifully slim and definitely in keeping with the minimalist design of the watch. The legibility at a distance is fantastic and when the light catches them just right, they can be fascinating. 

I can’t help but wish however, that they had achieved the sterile crispness of a white dial beneath these hands.

There is a small seconds register at 6 o’clock which features a concentric guilloche pattern, adding a little texture to the dial.

But the real show stopper here is that for which the watch is named. Nomos has implemented a power reserve indicator like no other. Between 1 and 2 o’clock, there is a sunken sub-register that displays the remaining power reserve. It functions with what is essentially a white disc chasing away the red indicator and circling the sub-dial. As you wind the watch, the entire disc rotates and the red is replaced gradually by the matte silver indicator. It’s an intriguing addition to the watch and one of the more interesting power reserve indications on the market

Strap

The watch comes on a supplied black Horween shell cordovan leather. It offers a sturdy and comfortable design with black stitching to match the main strap.

Nomos have received their fair share of praise for their leather straps, and this being their entry level offering, it does not disappoint.

Closing Thoughts

Nomos have produced a slim and modestly sized time piece that is in keeping with the brands Bauhaus philosophy. The watch offers a clean and modern aesthetic that feels right at home in a casual setting, and can be worn comfortably at a more formal occasion.

While the watch may feel a touch to delicate as an all day every day piece, it could certainly find its way into the collection for most enthusiasts. There is a slightly larger 38mm variant offered by the brand which features a date complication and the opportunity for those with slightly larger wrists to enjoy the complication on offer. This may also alleviate some of the issues I had encountered with the lug sizing.

The addition of the intriguing power reserve mechanism coupled with an expertly crafted movement, definitely make the Nomos Tangente power reserve a watch worth considering for your next purchase.

Nomos Tangente power reserve specification:

Case Diameter : 35.0 mm, thickness 6.6 mm

Dial: White (matte silver)

Case: High polish stainless steel

Movement: Nomos in house DUW 4301

Power Reserve: Approximately 43 hours

Functions: Hours and minutes with small hacking seconds. Power reserve. 

Water Resistance: 3 Atm (splash proof)

Australian Retail Pricing : $3,770.00

Local Authorised Dealers :

• Brisbane – The Hour Glass
• Melbourne – The Hour Glass and Monards
• Sydney – The Hour Glass and Master watchmaking