Back when this Cotton Candy edition was released in bronze, it was presented in three pastel shade colours, reminiscent of cotton candy; blue, pink, and green. The dial colours upon its release achieved exactly what Oris set out to create “to bring a smile to the face of those who see them.” Whether bronze was the perfect colour combination for these pastel shades is a matter of personal opinion. What it did, however, was give a level of contrast to let the dials stand out.

The wearability of bronze was also another factor. While it certainly is an appealing material, especially with it being able to patina over time, giving each individual watch its own unique appearance, bronze is not versatile. It’s not a material that can be worn for a lot of different functions.

This is where this all-new steel release comes in, to fill in that gap all the while appealing to a wider range of audience. Oris is presenting the steel variants in the same trio of pastel shades. Oris is also going a step further and offering the Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy in blue, green or pink recycled perlon strap, for those that want a more casual and relaxed look. Having the coloured straps matching the dial also gives these timepieces a great summer look, ideal for the outdoors.

Oris’s new Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy comes in a 38mm stainless steel case with a matching steel uni-directional rotating bezel with a minute scale. The watch is offered in a three-link stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp. We love this new stainless steel design. While the bronze version definitely has its appeal for its uniqueness, the stainless steel version offers a lot more versatility.

The movement inside this new Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy is Oris’s own 733 calibre movement. This movement powers the normal time function along with the date feature shown subtly at the 6 o’clock position. The 733 movement operates at a high-frequency of 4Hz (28, 800 VpH) and can deliver a power reserve of approximately 41 hours.

This new steel variant of the Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy is a fun watch, released just in time for European summer. The timepiece comes with Superlumi-Nova-filled hour indices and hands, providing excellent low-light visibility. The pastel-coloured dials against the steel may not have the same stark contrast as the bronze version released two years ago, but it does give an understated appearance with the dial colours still standing out beautifully. That, combined with the option of the coloured perlon straps make this new Oris Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy a fun, sporty and elegant timepiece.

Reference: 01 733 7771 4055-07 3 19 04S / 07 8 19 18 (Blue dial), 01 733 7771 4058-07 3 19 02S / 07 8 19 18 (Pink Dial), 01 733 7771 4057-07 3 19 03S / 07 8 19 18 (Green Dial)

Specification

• Case: 38mm
• Case Material: Multi-piece stainless steel case and unidirectional rotating bezel with minutes scale
• Dial: Blue, pink or green pastel colours
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating.
• Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
• Movement: Oris 733
• Power reserve: Approx. 41 hours
• Strap: Multi-piece stainless steel metal bracelet with folding clasp, or blue, green or pink recycled perlon strap with stainless steel buckle.

Availability: June 2023 through Oris Boutiques or E-Commerce

International Recommended Retail Pricing: $2,550 USD (Stainless Steel Variants), $2,350 USD (Perlon Strap Variant).

The birth of the GMT watch came during the era in which commercial airlines first started overseas travel. During the “Jet Age” aircraft powered by jet turbines allowed for social and cultural changes, where the public was able to for the first time have international travel. One of the problems that arose with international travel was jet lag and the fact that pilots were losing track of time back in their home country. GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time, and is time zone zero against which all other timezones are measured against, also referred to as UTC (Coordinated Universal Time).

The first GMT watch that was ever created to fix the issue of two time zones was the Glycine Airman in 1953. This timepiece was designed to specifically meet the pilots requirements of being able to tell two different times, which is why the dial at the time of creation looked so unorthodox. First the dial had a 24-hour scale instead of the traditional 12-hour. This would display the local time. The bezel then featured another 24-hour scale, which would be used to tell the second timezone. While the Glycine Airman was certainly the first, they didn’t get the attention they deserved as the watch never caught on.

This is where Rolex would come in, and was one of the first brands to step in and develop a watch to display two timezones with the traditional 12-hour dial. Having already mastered different feats such as making a watch functional at deep sea levels and also at high altitudes prior to this, the brand was certainly up to the task. The watch they envisioned and ultimately created in 1954, became an icon. A design that is still used to this day for their modern GMT watches.

The Rolex GMT-Master Pan Am built in 1954 came with a Pepsi-coloured bezel and a red arrow-tipped GMT hand. As the name suggests this timepiece was designed specifically for Pan American World Airway’s pilots as they crossed multiple timezones. With the addition of the red GMT hand, pilots were able to distinguish two separate time zones at once.

How exactly does the GMT function work?

The GMT function on a watch is a relatively simple one to use. To use a GMT function, the watch first needs to have a 24-hour scale in which the second (or third) time zone can be read from. A GMT timepiece will come with a 24-hour scale on either the dial itself (usually along the minute track) or as markings on the bezel.

The GMT function is used by having the GMT hand read the second timezone in 24-hour format. For example, say we are in Brisbane where the time is 7:00 am, and we have family in Singapore where the time is 5:00 am, the GMT hand would simply need to be adjusted to meet 5:00 am on the 24-hour scale on the bezel or dial scale (if it exists). If both the bezel and dial 24-hour scales are shown, then a 3rd timezone can be read.

A 3rd timezone is read straight from the bezel as it’s the only timescale that can be adjusted. As the second timezone can be read from the dial’s timescale. Using the example above, if we had friends in Geneva, the time would be 11.00 pm (relative to 7:00 am Brisbane time). Without moving the GMT hand, as it is set up to read the second timezone through the dial’s 24-hour timescale, the bezel would be adjusted so that the GMT hand would read 11:00 pm.

For ease of use, the local time needs to be shown on the main dial, with the second and third time zones being shown by the GMT function. Having a second-time zone (or third) can come in real handy not just for knowing the time back home or time where you’re family/friends are residing. It can also be used for knowing for example the market opening of the overseas stock market. Another practical use is as business to know when your overseas suppliers/operations are opening, or when your international client wants to set a meeting for a certain time. All this can be done by a quick glance at a GMT watch, provided it is set up correctly initially.

But is the blue dial overplayed? Is it over-used by watch brands? Blue dial timepieces have been around for decades. One of the first blue dials to appear in production was from IWC in 1967. In its early days, blue dials were reserved for limited edition timepieces for a lot of brands, signifying its specialty. This still is the case with a few brands today (think IWC, TAG Heuer, etc) even though blue dials are very popular in the modern age.

Even with its popularity, we feel that blue dials are essentially a timeless design. No matter how many blue-dial watches you see, every brand has its own take on it, making each watch stand out in its own way. There are also quite a few different shades of blue. From H.Moser & Cie’s incredible Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel (which you can read about here) to TAG Heuer’s TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf Special Edition (read here), there is a variety when it comes to blue dials to suit all kinds of personalities and tastes.

With this in mind, we want to showcase some of the best blue dials to come out of Watches and Wonders 2023. Not just any shade of blue dial however as there would be far too many options. In particular, we want to showcase the navy blue dials.

Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar

This timepiece is a brand first for Panerai. For the first time, they have introduced an annual calendar into their Radomir collection. They have introduced two variants, with this variant being made from Goldtech^TM with a blue sun-brushed dial.

The Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar comes with a beautiful sun-brushed sandwich dial which is overlaid on top of the disc of Super-Luminova, with the deep blue accompanying the Goldtech™. This blue dial is perfectly complemented by the white and rose gold details (hands and hour indices).

If you want to read more on Panarai’s latest blue dial beauty, click here.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Bi-colour

Oris is accustomed to using beautifully blue dials on their timepieces, especially on their Aquis range. For this year’s Watches and Wonders, Oris released a fun summer timepiece, in either a beautiful forest green or deep blue.

What makes this Aquis model stand out from the rest of the blue dials in Oris’s range? It would have to be the combination of the 18-carat gold finish with the blue. The bezel has an outer edge made from 18-carat. The details inside the dial, such as the hour hands and hour indices all have gold finishes, which along with the white SuperLumi-Nova contrasts beautifully against the blue backdrop.

Read more on this blue-dialed Oris Aquis 18k gold version here.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic in Rose Gold

At only 5.3mm thick, the Piaget Altiplano is not only a stunning timepiece but a masterful creation as well. This new Altiplano Ultimate Automatic in Rose Gold is very much similar to last year’s release, now just without the diamonds and bling.

And the dial? A stunning piece of art. The dial is carefully created to be as aesthetically pleasing as possible. A half-skeleton dial is combined with an off-center circular sun-burst main dial in a dark navy blue. This is finished off with rose gold details that complement the dial and case nicely.

Read more about the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic in Rose Gold

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

This list wouldn’t be complete without including a blue-dialed timepiece from TAG Heuer. They have released quite a few great models already this year, but a blue-dialed timepiece that stood out the most for us was the latest TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2023.

The watch speaks for itself. A racing-inspired chronograph, the dial is filled with colourful reminders of TAG Heuer’s racing heritage and racing timepieces. This model has a signature blue sunray-brushed finish, which plays with light beautifully.

Read more about the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph here.

Baume Mercier Riviera Azur 300m

A blue dial with a twist. The Baume Mercier Riviera Azur 300m is no ordinary blue-dialed timepiece. Released as part of Baume Mercier’s 50th-anniversary celebrations for the Riviera collection, this new Azur 300m is a fashion sport-chich timepiece that can take a beating.

This diving watch comes with a smoked blue (or grey sapphire variant) that has a transparent wave decoration. A semi-skeletonised timepiece in which you can actually see the date ring underneath but not much else of the Baumatic manufacture movement. The transparent waves were inspired by the Mediterranean seafloor and the images of the ocean during summer. Perfectly suited for a blue-dialed timepiece.

If you want to learn more about the Azur 300m or see more in-depth pictures click here!

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

One of our favourite blue dials released during this year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 has to be the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date. The shade of blue on this lacquered dial is truly breathtaking and deserves to be seen up close in person.

As the name suggests, this model comes with a moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, which is beautifully decorated, and then a retrograde date indicator along the top half of the dial. The 18k white gold hour markers, and hands, along with the steel case and bracelet only aid this watch further in making it a visual masterpiece.

See more beautiful pictures and information on this timepiece here!

Grand Seiko TENTAGRAPH

This year saw Seiko unveil a completely new watch for the brand. A mechanical chronograph timepiece. The Grand Seiko TENTAGRAPH is introduced into the world of chronograph timepieces with the precision of high-beat movement and long power reserve.

The Blue “Mt. Iwate” pattern takes inspiration from the mountain that’s visible from Studio Shizukuishi. The rich deep blue of the dial is a reference to the night sky above the mountain. The timepiece’s readability is enhanced due to the direction contrast of the large hour indices and hands, which have also been coated in SuperLumi-Nova.

If you want to learn more about Grand Seiko’s first ever mechanical chronograph, click here!

With this display of different blue dials, the question of are blue dialed timepieces overused can be answered and safely put to rest. We think that while yes, blue dials are common, it is certainly not something that should be taken for granted. From even just the above chosen timepieces, it’s evident that no two brands showcase the same dial features. As we mentioned earlier, each brand has their own taken on the colour and finish of blue on the dial. And even if two brand’s shared this same dial colour and finish, what set’s them apart is the functions, design of hour indices and hands and also the material’s chosen for these features on the dial, which ultimately give the final touch to the blue dial.

So instead, we present my favourite twelve picks that came out of this year’s Geneva show, from Rolex’s Daytona to Vacheron Constantin’s Retrograde update.

Ulysse Nardin Freak One

The latest update to one of the most daring timepieces created in the 21st century. This newest creation, the Freak One, comes packed with technology while still remaining durable, easy to use, and designed to be worn as a daily.

The timepiece has been given a black DLC-coated titanium case with a rose gold 5N bezel with a matching dial interior. The three signature characteristics that made the Freak an icon is retained on this timepiece: no hands, no dial, and no crown. Ulysse Nardin is aiming to make the Freak One its flagship timepiece. You can read more about this latest FREAK creation here!

TAG Heuer Carrera Date 36mm

While TAG Heuer updated quite a few of their collections, one that stood out beautifully was the new colourways for the new Carrera Date 36mm.

The vibrant pink dial is just made to stand out. The added snailed finish on the dial makes it a stunning timepiece. TAG Heuer made a bold choice to break away from the traditional colours of black, blue, or white. A choice that we think will pay off for the brand. To see more of this pink dial Carrera Date plus more, click here!

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

No list would be complete without seeing the latest update from Rolex. The Rolex Daytona is as emblematic as it gets in the world of watches. The entire range of Daytona’s got an update for this year’s Watches and Wonders.

While the update to a lot of the models in this collection seemed minor, especially aesthetically, what stood out was the 950 platinum edition. Rolex has, for the first time in a Daytona, given the timepiece an open case back. Only visible on the 950 platinum model, Rolex has given this new Daytona collection the new-generation calibre 4131 movement. Read more about this latest update to the Daytona here!

Hublot Square Bang Unico New Editions

2022 saw the release of a world-first, square-shaped Bang Unico from Hublot. This model has enjoyed a lot of success since its release, so why not bring it back with an impressive update?

This year Watches and Wonders saw Hublot unveil three new editions for their Square Bang Unico. Two models in white and black sapphire and an incredible Square Bang Unico in Sapphire. Hublot is one of the leaders of using sapphire materials in their timepiece, so it only makes sense to bring two impressive designs together. Read all about the new Square Bang Unico here!

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Retrograde

Vacheron Constantin, this year has been all about the retrograde update, with some existing collections getting this feature. One of these collections is the Overseas line.

What is already a stunning timepiece with that gorgeous blue dial, this all-new Overseas model gets the retrograde function. The retrograde display is a historical design for Vacheron Constantin, one that fits beautifully on this timepiece as is also accompanied by a moon phase indicator. Read more about this retrograde update for Vacheron’s Overseas model here!

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition

I’ve always been a fan of Montblanc’s Geosphere timepiece. The fact that you get the northern and southern hemispheres on the dial spinning in sync with the day/24hr time was always interesting to see.

Now, Montblanc has given the 1858 Geosphere a new update. Montblanc introduced a new capsule collection that pays tribute to the world’s 14 highest peaks. These mountains are all above 8000 feet and have barely any oxygen, which is the central theme in this new collection. Read more about this latest 1858 Geosphere creation from Montblanc here!

IWC Schaffhausen’s Ingenieur Automatic 40

IWC has given their Ingenieur collection a newly engineered update, which references design codes from Gerald Genta’s Ingenieur SL (ref. 1832) from the 1970s.

The new collection comes with four models, with three models being made from stainless steel and the fourth given the titanium treatment. It takes an old classic and gives it modern design features while also improving wearability and performance. All the right ingredients to make it hit in the world of watchmaking. Read more about IWC’s newest Ingenieur Automatic 40 collection here!

Cartier Skeleton Collection

While this isn’t a singular watch, the entire Cartier Skeleton collection makes it into this list. For this year’s skeleton models update, Cartier is upgrading four new collections, each with their own iconic shape and design.

The Santos-Dumont, Pasha de Cartier, Santos de Cartier, and a grand complications pocket watch are getting aesthetic and mechanical upgrades. With a flawless balance between the movement and dial, Cartier has mastered the art of making skeleton watches, more so evident through this latest collection of skeleton timepieces. Read more about this collection here!

Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton In Black Ceramic

Following on from 2022’s update for the DEFY Skyline models with the new generation of seminal El Primero high-frequency calibre movements, 2023 sees the watches get a new aesthetic upgrade.

Two models in the DEFY Skyline line get a black ceramic makeover, with one of the models being the Skeleton. Crafted entirely in black ceramic, including the bracelet, the DEFY Skyline Skeleton is one of the standout pieces in Zeniths 2023 releases. To read more about this timepiece, click here.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Bi-colour

This year, Oris has updated the Aquis collection with new colours and materials. With the combination of the coloured rubber straps, the Oris Aquis Date Calibre Bi-colour for is one of the stand-outs in the collection.

This fun summer timepiece is offered in two dial colour variations (deep blue and forest green) and has an 18-carat fold finish on the edges of the bezel and matching gold details on the dial. Oh, and did we mention that it features Oris’s incredible 5-day power reserve Calibre 400 movement? If this piques your interest, click here to read more!

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

This one for all the racing enthusiasts out there. The iconic and ageless design of the original 1963 Heuer Carrera has inspired this latest creation from the Swiss giant. With a fresh new dynamic styling, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph will be released with two dial variants: a black and blue dial.

The dial carries a lot of colour accents, with them being the gradient orange ring, a reference to racecar speedometers. Each variant of this new Carrera Chronograph has its own character; however, what’s clear is that both timepieces carry the Carrera icon into the next generation with ageless styling and high-quality movements. To find out more about this Carrera Chronograph update, click here.

Baume & Mercier Riviera 39mm Collection

Another collection of timepieces that stood out was Baume & Mercier’s 39mm Riviera line. Released as part of the celebrations of Riviera’s 50^th anniversary, this new collection is offered with different material and dial variations.

Available in either stainless steel with a smoked blue dial or smoked grey sapphire dial or titanium bezel with a smoked grey dial, this new Riviera collection features a beautiful wave transfer decoration on the dial. This latest update for the Riviera collection brings it forward to a new era while keeping all the essence of what makes this piece loved by watch aficionados. To read more about this collection, click here!

This Aquis Bi-colour stands out the most for me from the latest range of Aquis timepieces. These modern divers watch by Oris are offered in two dial colour variations that are enriched by a touch of solid gold. The watches are offered in either forest green or deep blue dial colour variants and have an 18-carat gold finish to the outer edge of their uni-directional rotating bezels.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Bi-colour is offered on a 41.5mm multi-piece stainless steel case on a multi-piece stainless steel metal bracelet. However, the model is also offered on a green or blue rubber strap depending on the colour of the dial. Personally, I like the rubber straps, it gives the watch a lot more lively character than the standard stainless steel bracelet. Having the quick strap change system that Oris has implemented will definitely come in handy, as the look of the watch can go from a sporty diver’s timepiece to a luxury piece with a stand-out dial.

The blue and green dials on offer are similar to the rest of the new Aquis Calibre 400 range of models. It comes with large applied hour indices and large hour and minute hands. All these elements have large amounts of Super-LumiNova, which for a diver’s timepiece is very handy.

What does set these Aquis dials on the Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Bi-colour apart from the rest of the collection is the gold details. The hands, indexes and even the minute’s scale on the green and blue ceramic bezel are all done in gold, which gives an overall balanced look to the timepiece.

Both variants of this new Bi-colour edition come with an open case back, which allows the wearer to see the Calibre 400 movement inside. One of Oris’s best modern movements, the Calibre 400 for this timepiece includes the functions of the hours, minutes, central sweep seconds hand and the date found subtly placed at the 6 o’clock position. The movement operates at a frequency of 28, 800 VpH (4Hz) while giving out an immense 120-hour power reserve (5 days).

While the latest Aquis Calibre 400 collection has a similar design throughout the models, this would have to be the stand-out piece. The fun-lively two-tone colour of the bezel combined with the straps matching the beautiful sunburst dials give this latest Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Bi-colour a range of wearability; from a beautiful sporty to luxury timepiece in just a quick strap change.

Reference: 01 400 7769 6355-07 8 22 09PEB / 4 22 75FC, 01 400 7769 6357-07 8 22 09PEB / 4 22 77FC

Specification:

• Case: 41.5mm
• Case Material: Stainless Steel
• Dial: Blue or green sunburst dial
• Crystal: Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
• Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
• Movement: Automatic Oris Calibre 400
• Power reserve: 120 hours (5-days)
• Bracelet/Strap: Multi-piece stainless steel metal bracelet with folding clasp with extension and quick strap change.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $6, 600AUD (stainless steel bracelet), $6, 400 AUD (rubber strap)

Availability: Now, from Oris E-commerce or Oris Boutiques and retail partner stores.

Oris’s vision has always been “to create beautiful mechanical watches and original, purpose-driven movements that bring joy to people who love mechanics”. The Oris Movement Creation Programme first started back in 2014 with the Calibre 110 movement. This movement was hand-wound and would produce an incredible 10-day power reserve from just a single barrel. Another notable movement which a lot of modern Oris timepieces have is the Calibre 400 series, released back in 2020.

Since the Calibre 400 release, Oris has been continuously working to upgrade the movement and its mechanics. Oris states that with the Calibre 400 series “the response has encouraged us to keep innovating. In the past nine years, we’ve introduced nine highly original, high-performance calibres and installed them in beautifully designed Swiss Made watches”.

For the 10th year, Oris has created something another high-performance calibre movement, taking inspiration from the first Calibre 110. The Calibre 473 movement (patent pending) gives out a staggering 120 hours of power reserve (5 days), but what’s impressive is that it’s from a hand-wound movement. One of the most frustrating parts of hand-wound movements is not knowing accurately when the watch needs to be wound again. For this Calibre 473, Oris has thought of this and provided a solution by integrating a power-reserve indicator on the back of the movement, visible through the timepiece’s open case back. A very useful function that clearly shows when the time to rewind the movement and its five-day power reserve.

This Calibre 473 movement has brought new life into one of Oris’s most notable timepieces: the Big Crown Pointer Date. For the very first time in over a decade, it features a hand-wound movement. The Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 comes in a 38mm multi-piece stainless steel case, with a beautiful blue dial.

The design details of this new Big Crown Calibre 473 remain relatively unchanged from previous Big Crown Pointer Date timepieces. The watch comes equipped with the red-tipped pointer hand, which indicates the date shown along the outer part of the dial. At the 6 o’clock position, we also get a constant second sub-dial. The Arabic hour indices are easily legible against the beautiful shade of blue for the dial background.

Lastly, the strap for this timepiece is an olive brown strap, crafted from sustainably sourced deer leather, which is produced by Oris’s Swiss partner Cervo Volante. This model also serves as the premier for the Oris-developed stainless steel butterfly clasp with a fine adjustment system. This adjustment system allows the wearer to adjust the strap as your wrist expands and contracts, which can happen due to climate and environmental factors.

The Calibre 473 movement took approximately four years to make, and with its release closes a circle of impressive movement production for the brand. The Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 retains the iconic aesthetic that watch enthusiasts have known the Big Crown Pointer Date to be, while now giving it an impressive hand-wound movement with a very useful power-reserve indicator.

Reference: 473 7786 4065-07 5 19 22FC

Specification:

• Case: 38mm
• Case Material: Multi-Piece Stainless Steel case
• Dial: Blue
• Crystal: Sapphire, domed on both sides with anti-reflective coating inside.
• Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
• Movement: Hand-wound Oris Calibre 473
• Power reserve: 120 hours (5 days)
• Bracelet/Strap: Olive brown strap crafted from sustainably sourced deer leather produced by Oris’s Swiss partner Cervo Volante with Oris’s all-new Oris-developed stainless steel butterfly clasp with a fine adjustment system.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $6, 500 AUD

Availability: January 2023

2022 was a big year for the independent Swiss brand Oris. Amongst the brand’s major updates to some of its collections was the continued release of its limited edition timepieces based on ecological conservation. The last major release for Oris in 2022 was the Coulson Limited edition, a watch created from the latest partnership with Coulson Aviation.

Alongside creating luxury timepieces, Oris also works in a variety of different areas to bring “Change for the Better” for the planet and its people. Oris is also now independently certified as a climate-neutral company, with the watch brand working closely with other pioneering agencies to bring the change required to make the world a better place. 

One of these agencies is Coulson Aviation, which Oris just recently partnered up with. Coulson Aviation is a family-run independent company based in Canada that sends out pilots, planes, and also much-needed equipment to areas of the world that are heavily affected by wildfires. The resources and help provided are split between the US and California for the Northern Hemisphere summer and for the Southern Hemisphere summer, Australia and South America. The vision of Coulson Aviation is to stop fires and assist firefighters on the ground, ultimately protecting life and the surrounding environment. 

This collaboration between Oris and Coulson Aviation is a carbon fibre timepiece with a stunning vibrant orange dial reflecting the fires. The timepiece is based on Oris Big Crown ProPilot and embodies the daring spirit and innovation that fuels the fire of both companies. 

The 41mm case is made from multi-piece carbon fibre, which features a grey-PVD-plated titanium fixed bezel. Innovation certainly runs through this watch, as the carbon fibre case features a patented 3D printing process that has never been used in watchmaking before. 

Oris states that in regards to this process, “devised by Switzerland’s prestigious ETH Zurich university (Swiss Federal Institute of Technology), it prints carbon fibre and a high-grade polymer developed in aerospace called PEKK simultaneously, weaving them together to create an ultra-lightweight, extremely rigid material. The process is so precise that you can fix the material’s pattern, where typically carbon fibre watch cases are random.”  Oris has used this advantage of creating the pattern to create the effect of a brushed finish, as you would find on a metal case. By doing this, it adds depth and character to the case, which otherwise would be a matte finish.

The Oris Coulson Limited Edition timepiece shares much of its DNA with the Big Crown ProPilot Series as it features a similar case design, the half-fluted “turbine” bezel, and of course, the iconic oversized crown at 3 o’clock. Along with the bezel, screw-down crown, case back and movement, the total watch weighs in at only just 65 grammes!

Oris took design cues from the Big Crown Pro Pilot with its three-hander layout and large Arabic hour indices to make the Coulson Limited Edition a simple yet easily readable dial. The dial background is the stand-out feature of this watch. It is certainly beautiful, as it is not just a plain orange colour. The dial has a matte gradient finish which allows it to go from a bright orange on the bottom to a darker orange at the top of the dial. This gradient finish is a reference to the chaotic and vibrant colours that emit from wildfires.

The hour indices and hands perfectly complement the dial and are done in white, giving it the perfect contrast against the orange gradient finish. To round off the dial’s features is the date window at 6 o’clock. The date display is black, which allows the wearer to see it easily against the lighter-coloured features on the dial.

Oris has given the top-tier engine for this Coulson Limited Edition model with the Calibre-400 movement. This movement has put Oris to new heights with its performance specs. The Calibre-400 movement powers the three-hander layout along with the date function. The movement has a date corrector, fine timing device, and stop-second function while also being highly anti-magnetic. The Calibre-400 movement operates at 28,800 VpH (4hz) and will keep the watch running for five days (120 hours!). The timepiece does come with an open case back. However, watch enthusiasts may be slightly disappointed as much of the movement is covered, and what’s visible is the matte blasted three-quarter plates and the brushed skeleton rotor.

How does it wear on the wrist:

The first thing you will notice is how light this watch is; thanks to 3D-printed carbon fibre polymer, this watch weighs just over 65 grams. Most of the time I had this watch on, I had to check if I had a watch on. The dial is very eye-catching that pops even more under sunlight. The 3D-printed carbon fibre polymer sets the perfect background to make the fiery red/orange gradient dial pop. I must admit seeing this watch in person has more appeal rather than what I have seen in photos. So I highly recommended to try it out.

As mentioned earlier, the dial is super easy to read. The white Arabic numerals and printed hour and minute markers pop against the dial, making it super easy to read the time. The placement of the date window blends in with the case and the second’s hands; however, it is still easily distinguishable against the white Arabic hour makers thanks to the black date wheel.

Having a power reserve of 5-days is always a massive win. I could wear the watch on Monday, set it down on Thursday/Friday and come back to it again at the start of the week after for it to still be kept accurate time. Although with a stunning attention-grabbing dial like this, it certainly made it hard to part ways with it. The timepiece has a stitchless black textile strap on a PVD deployment clasp. Although this limits the activities that can be carried out with this strap (don’t want to be sweating too much now!), I found it comfortable for daily wear. It’s also a bonus that the strap is fully black, which further aids in driving attention to the dial.

The Oris Coulson Limited Edition combines all the metrics of a great timepiece. With innovative case design, impressive movement and now a stunning dial, this model is attention-grabbing whilst also being a reference to Coulson Aviation and the great work they do with firefighting and environmental preservation. The Oris Coulson Limited Edition is limited to 1000 timepieces and is available through authorised dealers.

Reference: 01 400 7784 8786-Set

Specification:

• Case: 41mm diameter
• Case Material: 3D printed carbon-fibre/high-grade polymer weave with titanium bezel with grey PVD coating.
• Dial: Orange/red gradient fire dial
• Crystal:  Double domed AR sapphire crystal
• Water resistance: 10 Bar (100m)
• Movement: Calibre 400
• Power reserve: 5-days (120 hours)
• Bracelet/Strap: black textile with orange inside layer. Grey PVD coating folding clasp.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD 6,900

Availability: Available now, limited edition of 1000 pieces

With mechanical watches however this is a different story. You can see the escapement wheel oscillating, tourbillons at work or even the chronograph pushers engaging the advancement of the central second’s hand from either the case back or front skeleton dials. This is what this latest Pro Pilot X Calibre 400 timepiece is all about. 

The front side of the Oris Pro Pilot X Calibre 400 is meant to showcase a luxurious display of beauty and sharp design, while the other side of the watch shows the mechanics of how this timepiece works. 

Design:

The Oris Pro Pilot X Calibre 400 comes in a 39mm multi-piece titanium case with satin and sandblasted finishes. Being a pilot’s watch, the case has angular lines which are aviation-inspired, and along with the different finishes, it gives the watch its raw look. The fluted type bezel design is a great addition to this timepiece. It stays in theme with the angular lines of the watch, however, the design still sets it apart from the rest of the watch. The muscular titanium bracelet also has an edgy design which overall goes well with the timepiece. 

As this is the first release of this collection, there are three dial colour choices offered initially. Firstly, we get a grey dial which is a bit more subtle yet blends in nicely with the titanium of the watch case. Secondly, Oris has presented this piece in a classy navy-like blue dial. This dial colour offers the most contrast out of the three colour options, as the hour indices and hands stand out greatly, making readability easy. Lastly, we have the salmon coloured dial. While the contrast isn’t as great as the blue dial, the main attraction for this timepiece is the salmon colour itself. The vibrant dial really is beautiful to look at. 

The dial has sharp design features, with baton-style hour indices and sword-like hour and minute hands. The hands have been coated with SuperlumiNova to allow for low light readability of the dial. A simple addition of the date window at 6 o’clock completes the dial. 

Movement:

Turn the watch over and we are treated to an open case back, which partially shows the inner workings of the movement operating this timepiece. The engine inside the Oris Pro Pilot X Calibre 400 is as the name suggests, the Calibre 400 movement. Oris states that with this movement “as with all Calibre 400 Series movements, it’s accurate to -3 to +5 seconds a day, within chronometer certification standards, even after it’s been exposed to the sort of magnetic fields we’re surrounded by every day”.

Featuring a more stable rotor system and twin-barrel concept, the Calibre 400 movement gives out a power reserve of approximately 120 hrs (5 days). The movement has been designed to minimise wear and tear as much as possible, with more than 30 components in the movement being made from non-ferrous and anti-magnetic materials. Oris stands by their movement very highly, and with this, they offer a 10-year warranty on the movement, as long as the owner is signed up with MyOris. Through the case back of the watch, we can partially see this amazing Calibre 400 movement. The escapement wheel is in clear view, but the rest of the movement is covered up.

A good release from Oris for Watches and Wonders 2022. A simple three-hander timepiece dedicated to the art of mechanical watchmaking. 

References: 400 7778 7153 (Grey Dial), 400 7778 7155 (Blue Dial), 400 7778 7158 (Salmon Dial)

Specification:

• Case: 39 mm
• Case Material: Multi-piece titanium case with satin and sandblasted finishes
• Dial: Grey, Blue and Salmon
• Crystal: Sapphire, domed on both sides, double-sided anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 100 meters
• Movement: Oris Calibre 400
• Power reserve: 120 Hours
• Strap: Titanium with folding clasp with Oris-patented ‘LIFT’ system

Australian Retail Pricing: $5,800.00 AUD

Availability: Available From April 2022

Now for 2022, Oris is releasing the iconic Big Crown Pointer Date in full bronze. This isn’t the first model that’s been done in full Bronze. Back in 2020 Oris released the Hölstein Edition 2020, which was the first-ever Oris model to be donned in full bronze, from the case, bezel, crown down to the bracelet. Then in 2021 Oris unveiled the Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy”. This unisex model was the second to be given the full bronze treatment. 

Now, for the third time, one of the most iconic models finally gets the much-deserved bronze treatment. 

Design:

The 40mm multi-piece case along with bezel, crown, and the impressive articulated bracelet have all been donned in bronze. Oris states that for the bracelet “developing a bracelet with this level of detail in bronze, a more malleable material than steel, required significant research and development by Oris’s in-house team of engineers.”

The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Bronze is offered in four different dial colour variants. From a rich green to a brown that closely matches the bronze, to a beautiful Bordeaux and a navy-like blue. All these colours compliment the bronze of the watch very nicely, but the stand-out ones have to be blue and green. The Bordeaux has its own appeal, and certainly, if you are a fan of red dials this will surely make the list. The brown is the more understated of the 4 colour variants, so if what you want is for the bracelet and case to do all the talking then this is the colour choice. 

Movement:

The movement inside these models is the Oris 754 calibre. This automatic movement powers the normal time function while also powering the date centre hand, instantaneous date, date corrector, fine timing device, and also stop-second. The movement operates at a frequency of 4Hz (28’800 VpH).

Bronze as we can see already is a special colour to Oris, as it captures the independent company’s industrial roots, which go all the way back to 1904. The beautiful thing about bronze is that it patinates over time, which makes each individual watch differ from each other over time as well. Now, one of Oris’s most iconic timepieces gets the full bronze treatment, with a variety of dial colours to suit different tastes. 

Australian Retail Price: $3,600.00

Availability: January 2022

The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 is not only changed in design but also the movement used as well. The Big Crown Pointer Date has been in production since 1938 and ever since then the models produced always kept two iconic features; an oversized crown so that the watch can be operated by gloved pilots and a central hand that pointed to the date scale around the edge of the dial. 

When Oris set out in recreating this iconic and timeless piece, these features were still retained. The upgrade to this iconic piece is not only in the design but also in the sizing as well. The new Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 model drops down 2mm in size from the previous 40mm version to the now 38mm. Modern watch enthusiasts are leaning towards wearing smaller size timepieces so this new size will be sure to be a hit. 

In regards to this latest creation, Oris Co-CEO Rolf Studer states that “people who love Oris have been asking for this. It’s a privilege as Oris guardians to begin this new chapter in the Big Crown story.”

Design:

As mentioned earlier, the Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 comes in a 38mm multi-piece stainless steel case. In previous versions, the watch had a fluted bezel, which has now been removed to look more like the original 1938 Big Crown model. The polished finish matches the casing perfectly, giving the timepiece a more luxurious finish. 

The dial is a beautiful navy blue finish, with the hour indices and indications (minute track, date scale) done in contrasting white. The hour numerals have also been given an update as Oris has opted to use a more modern font. The hour and minute hands have also been updated from the previous cathedral style design to the now more modern straight and sleek finish. Another update which the 80th Anniversary edition had is now being included as standard, which is the constant seconds counter at the 6 o’clock position. The red-tipped date pointer remains the same as per the previous model and rightly so as it’s an iconic design of this watch. This hand also offers just the right amount of colour variation. 

The watch strap is offered in black leather with Oris’s quick strap interchange system. The black leather is a good choice as it allows the blue dial and stainless steel casing to stand out in contrast. 

Movement:

The engine behind the Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 is the new Oris Calibre 403 movement. Part of the Calibre 400 series which has elevated levels of anti-magnetism and a staggering five-day power reserve, the Calibre 403 is the latest iteration. Calibre 403 now allows for a combination of complications which include the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock and also the pointer date feature. 

This full in-house movement also offers a very impressive 10-year warranty. The case back is also open with sapphire glass, allowing the viewer to have a glimpse of what the Calibre 403 is like. 

Updating an iconic model with new design codes is always going to be a challenge. It has to be designed in a way that the new model will be taking the watch into more modern times and be loved just as much as its predecessors. It seems like this new piece has achieved that, with just the right amount of changes to bring about a more modern look to a classic timepiece. 

Reference: 01 403 7776 4065-07 5 19 11

Australian Retail Pricing : $4,700.00 AUD

Availability: Available now