Panerai – Watch Advice https://www.watchadvice.com.au Luxury watch reviews, news & advice Mon, 07 Aug 2023 09:30:13 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.8.1 Adding Some Vintage Style With The Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni https://www.watchadvice.com.au/17810/adding-some-vintage-style-with-the-panerai-radiomir-tre-giorni/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/17810/adding-some-vintage-style-with-the-panerai-radiomir-tre-giorni/#respond Fri, 04 Aug 2023 09:00:40 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=17810 The chance to experience the latest 3 day Radiomir from Panerai was too hard to pass up. But how did it hold up, especially comparing it to the 8 Giorni I road-tested a month or so ago?

What We Love

  • Vintage styled design aesthetic
  • Slim case profile sits flush to the wrist
  • Textured dial and aged lumed numerals

What We Don’t

  • Thick strap is a little chunky
  • No see through caseback
  • 3 Day Manual Winding

Overall Rating: 8.875/10

  • Value for money: 9/10
  • Wearability: 9/10
  • Design: 8.5/10
  • Build quality: 9/10

Back in June, I was able to experience the new Panerai Radiomir 8 Giorni that the brand released for Watches and Wonders this year. I was immediately drawn to the distressed look of the eSteel and the blue smoked and textured dial. Check out my review of it here for the full details. So when the opportunity came up to wear the Tre Giorni (three day) version for a couple of weeks, and be able to compare directly to the 8 Days variant, I jumped at the chance. And what better place to photograph a watch with nautical and Navy roots than down by the bay and marina!

Seemed fitting to take a naval inspired watch to the marina for some photos

First Impressions

Now, the differences between the Tre Giorni and the Otto Giorni are not huge, and other than the movement’s power reserve, it’s basically aesthetics. But then the look of a watch is a major factor when it comes to what you choose. It either looks good and resonates with you, or it doesn’t.

The first impression of the Tre Giorni is that whilst it’s a similar watch, it’s also a very different watch in the way it looks and feels on the wrist. The two biggest aspects were the satin steel case and the clean dial in the fumé grey colour. I’ve tried to do it justice with the photo’s, but it’s something you need to see in person, especially the case.

The Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni with textured dial and blue fired hands

The Design

Just like the 8 Day version, the Radiomir Tre Giorni is based on the Radiomir prototype from 1935, albeit a smaller case size of 45mm compared to the 1935 version, which was 47mm. The case is made from what Panerai call Patina Steel. The best way I can describe it is not quite polished, not quite brushed, but somewhere in between. It’s almost a very smooth satin finish with a slight touch off matte to it.

This gives the cushion case a very unique look that does stand out. It reflects the light in a unique way, and due to the way the surface is finished, it’s a little goldilocks for me – not too bright, not too dark, just right. The added benefit to this is that unlike high polish, it doesn’t show marks from finger prints or water marks, and keeps it’s lustre in a way that brushed steel doesn’t.

The satin finished case – not quite high polish, not quite brushed

Keeping with the theme of vintage, Panerai have given the Tre Giorni a tan/brown/grey shaded dial, that is dark at the edges and light in the middle. Now Panerai officially says this is a grey dial, but depending on the light, it can change and look more light brown or tan in certain conditions. This is potentially helped by the dirty dial lume on this version, which is designed to look aged. It’s a combination that just works. And if you missed my last hands on review with the Otto Giorni, then the dials on these Radiomirs have been designed as an ode to the old Radiomir dials that were made of aluminium and as they aged and anodised, they changed colours and appearance.

The textured grey dial of the Radiomir Tre Giorni

The dial has been kept very clean too. There are no date windows, logo’s or small seconds hand sub-dial on this one. Just the Radiomir Panerai at the top and the 12, 3, 6 and 9 numerals and indices on the sandwich dial. To me, this keeps with the vintage styling, and whilst I am a date guy when it comes to watches, I can easily overlook it on this piece as I feel it would detract from the overall look.

The other nice touch is the blue fired hands. On the blue dial variant of the same watch, or on the blue Otto Giorni, the hands do blend in a little, but are still easy to read due to them reflecting the light and the lume on the inside. However on the Tre Giorni, these pop as they directly contrast to the grey dial. In the sunlight and at the right angle, these come alive and give the watch just another dimension to it’s look and feel.

The blue fired hands light up in the sun under the domed crystal

As with the typical Radiomir design, the Tre Giorni has the wire lugs that hold the vintage styled leather strap on. As Panerai’s are strap monsters, you can swap and change them out easily, and as such, the same watch may come on a different strap depending on what Panerai have decided to put on that particular piece. In this case, the specific example had a dark brown vintage styled leather strap with cream stitching. It looked the part honestly and just added to the overall look of the piece.

How It Wears

As mentioned in the 8 Day review, these Radiomir’s wear extremely well. Whilst the case is large at 45mm, these wear much smaller due to the cushion shape and curved edges, plus a lot of the thickness (around 3mm) is actually in the domed crystal and sloped bezel. This gives the impression of a thinner watch as the eye is drawn to the case, which sits perfectly flat on the wrist. Overall, it’s just 14mm thick, which compared to other watches out there today isn’t huge, but the case only measures 11mm, and this is what you really look at with the Radiomir.

The Radiomir Tre Giorni wears almost perfectly on my 17.5cm wrist

To put this into context, I compared in my hand the Radiomir with my Luminor Marina 312 at 44mm. The Radiomir looked visibly smaller in comparison, again, mostly due to the design of the case and crystal. The Luminor is chunky with a much thicker case and the crystal whilst domed is set into the case and bezel meaning it wears larger than the specs suggest, and the Radiomir smaller.

The leather strap was comfortable as well. Whilst it was probably a little thick for my liking, this is a personal preference. I feel I would prefer the same style of strap that was on the Otto Giorni, the thinner and softer calf skin, but in the dark tan colour to match the styling. Whilst it doesn’t affect the overall wearability of the watch, the thickness around the wire lugs did bug me slightly as it did give the impression of being a little bulky when compared to the 8 Day variant on it’s strap. However, it was sturdy and robust, which is what you want.

The dark brown strap is sturdy with distressed styling

Outside of this, the watch does wear very well and thin enough to slide under a cuff. I did wear this to a couple of functions with long sleeves and jackets on, and it was completely fine in these situations. Whilst the look may not have looked right from a pure fashion stand point, it was fine for me as lets face it, it’s nice to go against the norm and wear something you enjoy.

The Movement

Inside the Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni is the hand-wound mechanical, P.6000 calibre. As the name suggests, its a 3 day power reserve from the single barrel movement. At only 4.5mm thick, this is one aspect that contributes to the thinner case design. Whilst I preferred the 8 day power reserve, simply from a convenience perspective only having to wind it once a week, the 3 Day reserve wasn’t too onerous. But you do have to remember it’s a manual wind, and not an automatic, which if you’re like me, takes a week or so to get used to winding it by hand rather than replying on the automatic movements I’m used to.

Forgetting to wind the 3 day movement can prove problematic if you’re like me

Whilst the Radiomir 8 Giorni has the see through case back, the Tre Giorni does not, concealing the movement. Instead it has the standard screw down back with the Officine Panerai logo on the back. This isn’t a deal breaker by any stretch as the manual wind movements in the Radiomirs are not designed for aesthetics rather than for functionality. Over the few weeks on my wrist, the movement kept good time, with little variation. We’re talking about a few seconds a day at most fast, which means you’ll at least be on time if not a little early when you compound this over a couple of months.

The standard screw down case back of the Tre Giorni

Final Thoughts

Having has the Blue Radiomir 8 Giorni, I wasn’t sure how I would feel wearing the slightly more plain Tre Giorni given the 8 Giorni has a lot going for it. But I have to say, I gravitated towards this more. The Radiomir Tre Giorni in this colour way seems more pure, more true to the vintage roots of the Radiomir in my opinion.

I found myself constantly looking at the dial and the texture in different light settings, and the overall feel of it just worked for my personal tastes. The domed crystal is a great tribute to the old plexiglass of the 30’s and 40’s and the cushion case makes such a difference on the wrist, especially on these due to the larger diameter, but less thickness when compared to a 44mm Luminor Marina.

No article about a Panerai would be complete without a lume shot!

I did feel a little sad giving this piece back as I did feel it was more a watch suited to my tastes than others I actually own. So much so that it was hard to put the Luminor back on again and whilst having the Radiomir, preferred this over the PAM312. The Patina steel was also a winner as you don’t see this style on many watches at all. It’s either brushed, polished or combination of both. This was something different and looked and felt good wearing.

The last thought I have on this is maybe sums up my experience with the Radiomir Tre Giorni. If I could put all the great elements of the Radiomir – the case thickness, Patina steel, domed crystal, the dial and hands into the shape of my Luminor 312, it would almost be the perfect casual watch. Classic Panerai look with a more aesthetically pleasing, easy wearing watch.

Time to say goodbye to the Radiomir

Reference: PAM01334

Specification

  • Case: 45mm, 14mm thick (11mm case/3mm crystal) and 55mm lug to lug
  • Case Material: Patina steel with a matte satin finish
  • Dial: Grey gradient and textured grain dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers.
  • Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
  • Water Resistance: 100m (10BAR)
  • Movement: Panerai Calibre P.6000 manual wind – featuring 19 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 21,600 vph / 3hz. Incabloc Parechoc® anti-shock device & one barrel. 110 components.
  • Power Reserve: 3 Days
  • Strap: Dark brown leather with cream stitching and distressed sides. Patina steel trapezoidal shaped pin buckle

Availability: Exclusively at Panerai Boutiques or online via panerai.com

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $10,800

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Getting Hands On With The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni https://www.watchadvice.com.au/16862/getting-hands-on-with-the-panerai-radiomir-otto-giorni/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/16862/getting-hands-on-with-the-panerai-radiomir-otto-giorni/#respond Thu, 29 Jun 2023 01:42:48 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=16862 The new Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 Days) is a surprising watch and wearing it for a couple of weeks made me seriously consider the piece. But, not for the reasons I thought when I first saw the press release earlier this year!

What We Love

  • Vintage styled design aesthetic
  • Great wearing, slim case profile
  • The textured, smoked gradient dial

What We Don’t

  • Case is a little too dark
  • No date (personal preference)
  • Wire lugs take a little getting used to

Overall Rating: 8.75/10

  • Value for money: 8.5/10
  • Wearability: 9/10
  • Design: 8.5/10
  • Build quality: 9/10

When Panerai released the new Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 Days) back in March for Watches and Wonders, I was immediately drawn to it, the distressed case, the textured smoked dial and the classic Radiomir look. So when I had the option of what Panerai’s I’d like to review next, I immediately jumped at the Radiomir Otto Giorni in blue.

The new Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni in blue

First Impressions

In my experience, press images and renders of watches either go one of two ways. They either make the watch look super cool and the actual piece is a little underwhelming in person, or it goes the other way – they really don’t do it justice at all. Laying eyes on the new Radiomir for the first time, my initial reaction was “This is not quite what I excepted!” but in a good way. The distressed steel was a little darker than expected, the case was thinner and the 45mm diameter case did not look or feel this big at all. And the textured smoke effect dial was much better in real life than the press shots.

Based on all this, I was keen to try it on, as never having owned a Radiomir before or in fact, never having tried one on (Hey, I’ve a Luminor Marina, so never had the urge!) The fit and the wire lugs also took me by surprise, both in a good and not so great way. More on that in a minute.

The Radiomir 8 Days dressed down

The Design

We covered the release of the two Radiomir Otto Giorni models for Watches and Wonders, which you can read about here, and being a lover of blue dial watches, I was instantly drawn to the blue dial and strap variant over the more traditional brown Fume dial and calfskin strap. In person, it doesn’t disappoint.

The Radiomir 8 Giorni is a throwback to the vintage military issue Radiomirs, specifically the prototype version of 1935. Panerai have taken the design cues from this and other Radiomirs of old, and give the watch some stunning visual elements that in every type of light just works.

Vintage styled looks with modern materials

The case is the now iconic ‘cushion case’ that Panerai are known for, and in the case of the Otto Giorni, is made from eSteel and then hand finished to give it an aged effect using PVD. This actually creates a totally unique effect, and is darker than all the photos portrayed. I was expecting a more ‘steel’ coloured case, that was slightly aged, however, the aging is much darker and gives the watch more of a stealth effect. Depending on your personal preference, you’ll either love it or you won’t.

The aged eSteel with applied PVD gives the case a very unique look!

The dial is a smoked gradient dial, which looks great in both bright sun and low light, and this combined with the textured effect Panerai have given the dial makes for a really stunning effect. Panerai have done this as an ode to the old Radiomir dials that were made of aluminium and as they aged and anodised, they changed colours and appearance. To me, they’ve captured this effect well in a modern way, and combined with the sandwich dial with the disc of aged yellow or faux-tina Super-LumiNova® under it adds to this vintage aesthetic.

The textured gradient dial is something special when seen up close.

Whilst vintage inspired, Panerai have opted to give the Otto Giorni a couple of modern embellishments with the addition of the small seconds hand at 9 o’clock and combining this with the circular 8 Giorni Brevettato logo at 3 o’clock (a throwback to the 1956 Egiziano model) to balance out the symmetry. The addition of a date window would have been nice, but this is more a personal preference for me as I like to have a date on my watches – years of habit checking the date on my wrist. Would this throw off the dial look? Potentially, but it’s not a deal breaker by any stretch.

The wire lugs holding the blue calf skin strap on work and look the part. At first, I was not loving how the lugs protrude almost straight out from the dial, making the watch a little wider across the wrist, but after a week, you get used to it. Part of me thinks that they could be angled down more, letting the strap sit lower on the case and more flush with the wrist, but again, a very minor quibble and possibly a personal preference.

Side profile and crown of the new Radiomir Otto Giorni

How It Wears

On paper, this isn’t a small watch. With a 45mm diameter, it’s big, and the images on press releases make it look perhaps a little bigger than it actually is. In reality, it wears much smaller due to two factors. The case is very flat, only 11mm thick from case back to the top of the bezel and just under 14mm including the domed crystal. The Glassbox style crystal gives it much slimmer proportions visually as well and sits flat on the wrist. The other aspect is the case is dark, and as they say, black is slimming, so it looks smaller with the case combined with the blue to black dial and blue calfskin strap.

The Radiomir wears slimmer and sits nicely against the wrist

The Watch Advice team took this and it’s cousin, the Tre Giorni to a recent watch meet up, and each person there was surprised when told the case size, as most thought 42mm or 43mm at most. And it wears small on most wrists, even those that wouldn’t normally go above a 40mm or 41mm could pull this off, again due to the slimness of the case and it’s cushion design. Compared to the 44mm PAM312, it looks smaller and much less chunky on the wrist.

One of our watchfam checking out the new Radiomir with his PAM312 in the background

As mentioned previously, I felt the wire lugs stuck out a little as the watch is 55mm lug to lug when taking into account the strap on the wire. But after wearing it around for a good week, you get used to it and as the case does sit flush with the wrist, you’re able to get past this easily. I have a 17.5cm wrist, and across the wrist it still fits nicely.

The Radiomir’s strap is both soft and sturdy

The blue calfskin strap is soft and sturdy, and this means that there’s no break in period like you would have with other leather straps, a nice bonus as one point of contention I always have with new leather straps is how hard and inflexible they are to start. Very few brands get this right, and to Panerai’s credit, they have in this instance.

The strap and buckle combo continue the vintage aesthetic

The Movement

The Radiomir Otto Giorni is equipped with the P.5000 calibre, a manual winding movement with 8 days of power being generated by it’s to barrels. At only 4.5mm thick, it’s the reason the main case of the watch is thin, and with only 146 components, this is about half of Panerai’s automatic movements. Whilst visible through the caseback, it’s not a pretty movement, and quite utilitarian with only the escapement balance spring and part of the third wheel visible cut away from the plate.

The P.5000 Calibre through the display caseback

Not having owned a manual wind watch before (yes, sacrilege I know!) the act of winding the movement is quite satisfying. Being an 8 Day reserve, there’s not a huge need for a power reserve indicator as you would just wind it once a week on a set day, like a Monday. It winds very easily, with a smooth action and listening to the mechanism winding is part of the fun.

Turning the crown should be a weekly ritual with the Otto Giorni

Final Thoughts

The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni was a bit of a surprise package if I’m honest. Wearing the watch really gave me an appreciation for all the design elements that have gone into the watch to give it the aged vintage look. As an entire package, it all works beautifully, giving you the feeling you have something different on your wrist. It’s big, but wears small, the strap is soft and super comfortable and it’s not super heavy.

The Radiomir 8 Days – a nice surprise package

Had I designed this watch for my personal preferences, I may have not darkened the case so much, but it does fly under the radar from a distance, which in some parts of the world these days is a good thing. The blue fired hands also blend into the dial a lot when compared to the brown PAM1347 variant where they really stand out in the sunlight. But this is just me being picky now.

If you’re looking to pick one up, then the Radiomir Otto Giorni is a boutique only piece, or alternatively available through their online store, and will set you back AUD $14,800. If you’re looking at something that’s not your run of the mill steel sports watch, something that has some great military heritage and can be a talking point with fellow collectors, then I’d seriously consider the Radiomir Otto Giorni. Not a fan of blue? Don’t worry, there’s a brown variant as well. I unfortunately now need to give this back!

The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni – one I may not give back…

Reference: PAM01348

Specification

  • Case: 45mm, 14mm thick (11mm case/3mm crystal) and 55mm lug to lug
  • Case Material: Hand finished eSteel with brushed PVD coating
  • Dial: Blue gradient and textured grain dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Small seconds at 9 o’clock
  • Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
  • Water Resistance: 100m (10BAR)
  • Movement: Panerai Calibre P.5000 – featuring 21 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 21,600 vph / 3hz. Incabloc Parechoc® anti-shock device & Two barrels. 146 components.
  • Power Reserve: 8 Days
  • Strap: Dark blue calf skin strap with cream stitching and aged PVD eSteel buckle

Availability: Exclusively at Panerai Boutiques or online via panerai.com

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $14,800

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With Casual More The Norm These Days, Is The Dress Watch Dead? https://www.watchadvice.com.au/14903/with-casual-more-the-norm-these-days-is-the-dress-watch-dead/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/14903/with-casual-more-the-norm-these-days-is-the-dress-watch-dead/#comments Wed, 19 Apr 2023 14:00:00 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=14903 This is a question that popped into my mind several weeks ago following a conversation with a few fellow collectors and boutique managers. Is the dress watch dead?

Well, maybe not dead, but its popularity has certainly waned over the last few years. Admittedly, I’ve never really been a dress watch type of guy. I’ve always preferred the sports watches over anything else. Maybe because my lifestyle in Queensland is more outdoors and casual, but even before I lived here, back in Sydney I gravitated towards the steel sports watches. I assume it’s mostly because back in the early 2000’s many successful people I knew wore Rolexes, Omega’s, Breitling’s and Panerai’s, and this coupled with movie characters and advertising of people I looked up to, wore the same. And who says ads don’t work?

Pairing my Panerai Luminor Marina 312 with a pair of chinos and rolled up business shirt for work last year

Putting this aside, the last few years has seen a definite trend towards sports watches, and away from dress watches. COVID has definitely played a part in this – with many people working from home and not the office. Prior to this, if you worked in a corporate environment with a suit, a dress watch made complete sense. All of a sudden, you’re at home in T-shirts and shorts, or whatever was the most comfortable to sit for hours on end at your kitchen table, lounge, outdoor entertaining area, or really where ever. A dress watch here didn’t make sense anymore. Now we’re out of COVID, and life seems to be back to a relative normal, and people are back in the office (at least part of the week), we should be seeing dress watches more right? It appears it’s not so much the case.

A Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – a stunning dress watch that’s not as common on the wrists these days

Changing Trends

Awards shows are always a good gauge on fashion trends, and watches, like it or not, are part of modern day fashion. And there certainly is a trend to see guys in suits sporting steel sports, or precious metal sports watches, not the typical understated watch on a nice leather strap, 40mm and under. You now see AP, Rolex, Patek, and even most recently, Dwayne Johnson rocking a TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 for the Academy Awards as a poetic nod to the fake TAG he wore when he was broke in his “7 Bucks” days, a departure from his standard go to of AP or Panerai in precious metal. But again, this proves my point, these are not dress watches either, albeit they are slightly more dressy than an Aquaracer!

Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson with his TAG Heuer Aquaracer. Image courtesy of Dwayne Johnson’s Facebook Page

Speaking to a few people in the know, they tend to agree. Dress watch sales have been in decline. Sports watches are taking their place, and for some brands, models that are hybrid dress/sports with interchangeable straps are becoming more popular. And this makes sense. Why spend good money on a dress watch that you may only wear every now and then (assuming you’re not in a suit and tie all day) when you can purchase a watch that is versatile and with the change of a strap, you can change the look? I know I’m gravitating towards this more and more.

The other theory I had was that people are just more casual these days. People want to be comfortable and this is extending into all areas of their lives. This can be seen across all areas of the luxury market. Luxury street wear is now more popular than ever, and replacing more formal attire in this sector.

Luxury sneakers – epitomising the trend of casual and luxury streetwear

Casual Luxury

An article from the New York Times in August of 2021 (which you can read here) highlighted this perfectly. Wall Street, the bastion of wealth and also formality had dressed down! The Suits were no longer in suits. If this wasn’t a sign I don’t know what was. And this trend permeated across the globe. Australia was not immune and I would suggest, was adopted a lot quicker than in other countries.

Worker on Wall Street in chinos, canvas shoes and business shirt with his Rolex Submariner. Image courtesy of The New York Times

Luxury had to follow. Now I don’t know where I heard the term, or maybe I just came up with it myself, but “Casual Luxury” is now in vogue. LV back packs, Hugo Boss sneakers, Gucci bomber jackets and of course, watches. And now, it seems that almost anything goes. An IWC Pilot 41 Chronograph with a suit? Sure! Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time on rubber for a nice dinner out? Yep! And Rolex, AP and Patek Philippe are go to pieces for any occasion, and that is part of the appeal of a luxury sports watch. Dress a Submariner, Royal Oak or Nautilus up or down. To be honest, I know I would.

Paring the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Ultraviolet with matching shirt and suit combo

The data would also suggest this is the case as well. Just take a look at the latest Morgan Stanley figures for the Swiss Watch industry in 2022. Brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre who are predominantly known for their dress watches have slid from their position at #10 in 2017 to #14 in 2022, Bulgari, who up until recent years focused on dress watches, have slid from #15 in 2017 to out of the Top 20 in 2022. And it’s no surprise that Chopard, who are known for their luxury jewellery and watches of a more dressy and formal nature have doubled down on their sports watch range, most notably with the hit that is the Alpine Eagle – a great sports watch that is easily dressed up or down.

2022 Watch Brand Ranking by Revenue. Data thanks to Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult

The Dress Watch Dilemma

I have had the pleasure of trying on and testing numerous dress watches over the past year or so, and some I loved, some not so much. My favourite of late was the Glashuette Original PanoMaticLuna. A brilliant dress watch, finished superbly and a great, and more affordable alternative to the A Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Moonshpase. I’d buy this in a heartbeat. If I only had the occasion to wear it! And these days, I don’t go to too many formal occasions, and for any watch related event, I’m normally wearing something from the brand or if not, and not too formal (most event’s aren’t too formal), my Zenith on the steel bracelet fits the bill.

The Glashuette PanoMaticLuna – Probably the only dress watch I would buy now or in the near future

Continuing on this thought path, I would now tend to look for a watch that I can wear often, if not everyday. I went to a formal event this weekend actually, and was lent a good friend’s Rolex Daytona in Rose Gold on Oysterflex. This was perfect for the event, looked the part and you feel a million dollars wearing it. And this is his almost everyday watch. Why? because it dresses up just as well as it dresses down. And this is what I’m now considering for my next purchase. A piece that is versatile, and can be either dressed up, or down. Not a big watch, most probably 40mm and not too thick, and preferably with the ability to change the strap or bracelet easily. A watch that can go from the boardroom to the beach to black tie. Am I asking too much?

Rolex Daytona in Rose Gold, rose dial with diamond baguettes on and OysterFlex strap.

Final Thoughts

But this does bring me back to the original question. Is the dress watch dead? Maybe for now, with the time we’re living in and the trends that are around today it is. Or maybe it’s just hibernating, waiting to be woken up when times have changed. And this is what fashion does. It ebbs and flows, it’s cyclical. Trends comes and go, and they come back around again. So maybe in the not too distant future, we’ll all be dressing up again, heading to work in suits and ties, when going out or travelling, putting on our Sunday best. But for now, my Sunday best is a pair of shorts and a Polo shirt, and on my wrist is a sports watch. And I’m perfectly ok with this!

Working from the home office in my Zenith Defy Skyline.

We always love to know what you think. Drop a comment in the comments section below and tell us if you agree or not? We’d love to hear your thoughts.

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Recap of Watches And Wonders 2023 Part 2 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/14650/matts-top-12-from-watches-and-wonders/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/14650/matts-top-12-from-watches-and-wonders/#respond Sun, 09 Apr 2023 23:22:05 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=14650 Now that the craziness of Watches and Wonders 2023 has subsided, I wanted to take a bit of a look back at some of the models that got my attention and why – there were some surprises in there!

Each year, the watch world waits to see what wonders come out of the industry’s premier trade show. Some years we see brilliance, and others years not so much. I feel that this year was a good year for the watch world, and we saw some really great pieces launched, some cool novelties and some brands just did some nice and timely updates to their core models. And from all reports, it seems that most commentators felt the same. So without further ado, here are my top 12 picks.

Piaget’s Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

Whilst Piaget added two new Perpetual Calendar models to their Polo line, my pick was the Rose gold and green. It just looks great, and builds on their release from earlier in year. At 8.65mm, it’s thin, and a the movement is stunning and complex. which can be seen through there caseback.
The fact that Piaget has also given it the quick change SingleTouch system, to swap out the green alligator or rubber strap just adds to this allowing you change the look, depending on your mood. At AUD $116,000, it’s not cheap, but you get a lot of watch for this!
You can read all about it here.

Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

Panerai went back to their roots this year, and told us their Storia Leggendaria. With this, bringing us the new Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 days) in hand finished eSteel.
Whilst not the most techically impressive, although it is an 8-day manual wind, so this is pretty decent, these are cool looking, and do hark back to their original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Also, each model is hand finished to give it the distressed look, so essentially, all unique!
Check out our write up about it here

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

Jaeger-LeCoultre focused on their Reverso Tribute line this year, and some of their models was absolutely fantastic. One of which was their Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which gives you 2 great watches in one!
Whilst each model looked stunning, my pic was the Pink Gold variant. The way the details contrast on the chronograph face, along with the “floating” look of the dial and bottom register are second to none!
For more on this, click here.

Hermes H08 In Rose Gold & Titanium

The Hermes H08 in Rose Gold and Titanium was a surprise for me. I’m not normally a fan of Hermes watches, but this model, in this combination jut works, and looks both casual, and just a little bit formal – it’s a paradox!
Hermes have used a good mix of Rose gold, titanium and black ceramic, and paired with the black rubber strap and the multi-faceted dial, all works together and is something a little different to the norm.
You can check out our write up on it here

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN “Oceana”

I’m a sucker for a good pilot’s watch, and need to add one back into the collection. And the new IWC Pilot’s Chrono 41mm in Oceana Blue is a hot contender. Although, speaking to the IWC boutique, there’s not a lot of detail on when this will be in, so I guess I’ll have to wait.
IWC have done some great releases in coloured ceramic and this is just the next to come out, and with the denim strap, looks like the perfect casual summer watch. Blending this with IWC’s DNA in pilots watches and you’ve a great piece.
Fly over to our write up on it here

Tudor Black Bay 41 Burgundy Dial

Tudor are a little more “edgy” than their big sister, but sometimes, a nice update is all you need. The Tudor Black Bay 41 with the burgundy dial was just this. Nothing ground-breaking, but a slimmer case, refined details on the dial and a choice now of three different bracelet/strap options with their T-Fit micro adjust.
Tudor have also made the movement just that little bit better – now Master Chronometer certified to 0/+5s per day and keeping the 70 hour power reserve. What more could you ask for?
For more details, check it out here

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm XPS

Chopard’s new Alpine Eagle in Lucent Steel and a stunning Monte Rosa pink dial and small seconds was one of those watches where Chopard took an already good watch and made it better! The addition of the small seconds is a nice touch, and the dial is just a stunning colour.
In this model, you now the calibre L.U.C 96.40-L movement, meaning the watch has slimmed down to just 8mm thick and the movement is beautiful with an 18k micro rotor powering it.
You can find out more about this model here

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

The Odysseus Chronograph was one of the more truly unique releases at this years event, and it was a first for the brand, having never done an automatic chronograph before now.
One of the most interesting aspects of the Odysseus Chronograph is the dial configuration using the outer track and the central seconds and minutes hands to tell the elapsed time, rather than sub dials. Plus the re-set to zero function is pretty cool, and something not seen before.
You can read all about it here

Rolex Yacht-Master Titanium

Rolex aren’t normally known for their innovative releases, but this year, they’ve come out with a first for The Crown – a sports watch in Titanium in the form of the Yacht-Master in 42mm. This is a great move from Rolex, adding another variant to the Yacht-Master line, and giving people a watch that is less dressy than the standard 40mm models, and a completely different look to the precious metal models.
It’s a great stealthy looking sports watch, and due to the titanium, is light and durable and fit for the purpose it was designed for, as we saw when Sir Ben Ainslie wore the prototype a couple of years back – leaving the world waiting for its release!
Check out my thoughts on the Yacht-Master Ti here

Grand Seiko Tentagraph

Grand Seiko have never done a fully mechanical chronograph before, having limited this complication to their spring drive models. But this year, they released a fairly under the radar chronograph that is fully mechanical. However, look at the details and its more impressive than it would initially seem.
A Ten beats per seconds chronograph, accurate to -3/+5s per day, tested over 20 days, housed in an all titanium case and finished to the standards that you expect from Grand Seiko. Its all in the small details, and this is what makes this watch a sleeper!
To check out the full write up, click here

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X

This was probably the craziest watch release this year (I cold be wrong), but you’d expect nothing less from Roger Dubuis. The Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X is designed in the theme of the new limited edition 50th anniversary Lamborghini Countach LPI 800-4. Hence the name.
Lamborghini design cues are all over this watch, from the engine case between the 90° V-Shape Double Flying Tourbillon, to the way the case looks like the wheels and tyres. It’s a serious piece of kit, to go with a serious car. But not for us mere mortals at $1,210,000 and limited to 8 pieces, I won’t be lining up anytime soon!
Check out the full write up and pics here

Bell & Ross Diver White Bronze

This may not have been on many people’s top 12, but I’ve included it for this reason. Bell & Ross have created a driver with a difference, and whilst not vintage in style, it’s got vintage style cues that just work with the overall design aesthetic.
The bronze case, paired with the opaline dial and brown strap give it a unique look, and the fact that it is ISO-6425 complied means it’s a true divers watch. It may not be for everyone, but that in my eyes isn’t a bad thing, as it means you probably won’t see many in the wild, and that’s a talking point in my mind!
Check out our coverage of it here

Well that’s it for another year of Watches and Wonders. It was a great show this year, and there were some brilliant releases, and not so brilliant releases. Whilst I couldn’t cover all of the releases here (it wouldn’t be a top 12 if I could!), you can check out all of the brands and models covered at Watches and Wonder 2023 here.

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Panerai Introduces The Radiomir Otto Giorni In Hand Finished eSteel https://www.watchadvice.com.au/13941/panerai-introduces-the-radiomir-otto-giorni-in-hand-finished-esteel/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/13941/panerai-introduces-the-radiomir-otto-giorni-in-hand-finished-esteel/#respond Tue, 28 Mar 2023 22:00:00 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=13941 This year, Panerai are going back to it’s roots with the Radiomir, looking back at the historic model that was first prototyped back in 1935. For Watches and Wonders 2023, the brand is focussing on it’s storia leggendaria primarily the Radiomir. This story is continue with the Radiomir Otto Giorni.

Panerai is a brand that has so much history and mythology, sometimes both intertwining into the legend that is Panerai. This year, Officine Panerai is taking a trip through its historical archives and telling it’s story, its storia leggedaria, that takes us on a journey back to the start of the 20th century where it cemented its name in legend. The release that epitomises this is the new Radiomir Otto Giorni in hand-finished eSteel.

All new Radiomir Otto Giorni in hand-finished eSteel

The new Radiomir Otto Giorni (Italian for eight days, which is the power reserve on the new model) takes us back to almost a century ago, with design aesthetic that screams both vintage and tradition. The Otto Giorni is in the traditional Radiomir shaped cushion case, quintessentially Panerai, as is the case size of 45mm. Whilst this is large for today’s standards, this stays true to the Panerai brand DNA as well as the vintage dive watches the Italian Navy used – large, simple, and easily legible underwater or in low light. In fact, the modern day Radiomir is 2mm smaller than the original 1935 prototype!

The unmistakable Panerai sandwich dial and lume

Every Radiomir Otto Giorni eSteel™ case is hand-finished one by one to create a seasoned look, giving each watch a unique character. The intently weathered effect of the eSteel™ case, created via PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition), is paired with defining elements of the original Radiomir created for the Royal Italian Navy – cushion-shaped case, slim wire lugs, and signature sandwich dial. Those watch aficionados who love a vintage styled timepiece will certainly be impressed by the look and feel of the Otto Giorni.

The distressed look of the eSteel case that is individually hand-finished

Panerai have equipped the new Radiomir Otto Giorni with its now trademark Super-LumiNova® sandwich dial, featuring a small seconds display at 9 o’clock, and the 8 Days Patented insignia in Italian at 3 o’clock – an homage to Panerai’s roots of 1956 watches, where this graphic inscription comes to life for the first time on the Egiziano model. The sapphire glass crystal on the face is domed, reminiscent of the Plexiglass® crystal of the past and the watch also has a cone-shaped crown, a design that distinguishes the Radiomir collection from other Panerai timepieces.

Small seconds hand, 8 Days Patented logo and the cone shaped crown; iconic to the Radiomir collection

Panerai have given the Radiomir Otto Giorni an open case back, showcasing the P.5000 hand wound movement, with 2 barrels to extract the 8 days power reserve, Glucydur® balance, Incabloc Parechoc® anti-shock device and running at 21,600 vph / 3Hz.

Case back of the manual wind P.5000 Calibre.

With this release, Panerai have given us two models – PAM01347 and PAM01348 to suit people’s tastes. PAM01347 is more traditionally vintage, with a grainy dark brown dial and matching dark brown calf skin strap. PAM01348 is a more modern take with its blue colourway, however, the blue is a subtle nod to the colours the aluminium dials could turn due to the anodization process. The blue calf skin strap with cream stitching matches the dial perfectly, giving PAM01348 a completley different look.

The two colour variants for the Radiomir Otto Giorni

Both dials have a dark to light gradient to them, giving the Radiomir Otto Giorni more depth to the dials, and the grainy look has an almost leather texture to it, giving it a much warmer feel, and something totally different to most modern luxury watches. The distressed case also gives each a unique look and texture, again something not really seen much these days, and being individually hand finished, watch lovers can be sure they have something just that little bit special.

Both references of the Radiomir Otto Giorni are Boutique Exclusives.

Reference: PAM01347 (Brown) & PAM01348 (Blue)

Specification

  • Case: 45 mm hand finished eSteel with brushed PVD coating
  • Dial: Brown or Blue gradient and textured grain dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Small seconds at 9 o’clock
  • Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
  • Water Resistance: 100m (10BAR)
  • Movement: Panerai Calibre P.5000 – featuring 21 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 21,600 vph / 3hz. Incabloc Parechoc® anti-shock device & Two barrels. 146 components.
  • Power Reserve: 8 Days
  • Strap: Dark brown or dark blue calf skin strap with cream stitching.

Availability: Exclusively at Panerai Boutiques or online via panerai.com

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $14,800

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Introducing The Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar https://www.watchadvice.com.au/13401/introducing-the-panerai-radiomir-annual-calendar/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/13401/introducing-the-panerai-radiomir-annual-calendar/#respond Mon, 27 Mar 2023 06:30:00 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=13401 In a brand first, Panerai has introduced an Annual Calendar into its collection, specifically designed for the Radiomir collection and available in 2 beautiful variants: One in GoldtechTM with a blue sun-brushed dial, and one PlatinumtechTM with a burgundy sun-brushed dial.

Panerai have a long history dating back to the late 1800s, and when it comes to the Radiomir, the first patent came out in 1935. Whilst true to the original design, the brand has evolved it over the years, with additions like the now famous crown guard on the Luminor range. Produced exclusively for the Italian military, it wasn’t until the 1970’s that Panerai was even known outside military circles, and again, not until 1993 when it released three collections of ten references in limited editions – the 44 mm Luminor and Luminor Marina watches and the 42 mm Mare Nostrum chronograph. The Radiomir came only a few years later, available commercially in 1997 when the Vendome Group – today Richemont Group – acquired Panera. Launching to the market, they introduced the first Vendome special edition in sixty pieces – the PAM 21 model in a platinum version. The brand has come a long way since then!

PAM01363 in Goldtech and PAM01432 in Platinumtech

At Watches and Wonders this year Panerai have launched a ground-breaking first for the brand – two Annual Calendar pieces, designed specifically for the Radiomir collection, complete with the Annual Calendar complication, seconds, minutes, hours, days, and now, each month of the year. All these complications form a precious new in-house movement for Panerai, the P.9010/AC (Annual Calendar).

Whilst most Annual Calendars are notoriously sophisticated in their movements, Panerai has taken (like they always do) the complicated and made the end result simple: easy and legible dials designed for maximum readability. In fact, the dial clearly displays the complete information needed. Date is displayed at 3 o’clock with the day & the date through two dials openings. The current month is displayed on an external moving disc, indicated by a fixed arrow at 3 o’clock.

Day, Date and Month function on the PAM01363

Adding to this, for every month change, a cam in the movement allows the turning disc to change instantaneously, making the information click over at the end of the month. The only time this needs to be adjusted manually is February, when the date change needs to be set from either the 28th or 29th, depending on the year. Panerai have also made changing the day easy, should you need to change it, via a small push button built into the side of the case, one simple push and it moves the day forward.

Day change button on the side of the PAM01432

The new Radiomir Annual Calendar models are powered by the automatic P.9010/AC caliber, reflecting Panerai’s DNA in crafting complications with Italian style and flair, combined with Swiss watchmaking expertise. The automatic P.9010/AC is a full automatic, 3 day power reserve movement, 7.90 mm thick pivoting on 40 jewels, and beating at 28,800 vph/4Hz. Like most Panerai movements, it also includes it’s patented Incabloc™ anti-shock device, two barrels for the 72hrs, also ensuring better accuracy via less torque loss and made up of 316 components.

P.9010/AC movement and see through caseback

A sapphire crystal open back case showcases a fascinating complication while the sandwich dial features the months, days, and the name of the complication, Calendario Annuale, all written in Italian. A nice touch and a perfect nod to Panerai’s Italian heritage.

The case design is pure Radiomir, with that classic 45mm cushion style case now found across multiple model lines. Each of the two pieces are unique in their materials, using both Goldtech™ and Platinumtech™ – proprietary alloys now widely used by the brand across their higher end models. For those that are not familiar with either of these metals, Goldtech™ is a gold material developed for the first time by Panerai, including a combination of platinum and copper, giving the metal an intense red appearance, Panerai’s answer to Rose Gold alloys other brands use, like OMEGA’s Sedna Gold, or Rolex’s Everose.

Platinumtech™ , whilst not a lot is known about the alloy is, according to Panerai, “harder than conventional platinum with enhanced physical properties” and then is put through a manual polishing process. Needless to say, in the hand, Panerai Platinum models are something else.

Showcasing the classic cushion case of the Radiomir

Both PAM1363 and PAM1432 have beautiful sun-brushed sandwich dials, overlaid on top of the disc of Super-Luminova, with the deep blue accompanying the Goldtech™ model and a burgundy sun-brushed dial the Platinumtech™ . Each dial does look stunning in the press pics, but if these are anything like the newer colour dial variants across the Luminor and Luminor Due collections, then they will look the business.

Sun-brushed blue sandwich dial on the PAM01363

Over the past few years, Panerai have released some very special models, helping to cement it’s association and partnerships with their collaborators, such as the Submersible Special Editions, giving owners the chance to have a money can’t buy experience with explorers like Mike Horn, or a chance to live a day in the life of the Italian Navy Seals. Panerai have taken this philosophy and applied it to the new PAM01432 Platinumtech™ Annual Calendar. Every owner of this timepiece will be invited to participate in an extraordinary journey to the Eternal City, Rome, the capital of Italy. The experience will immerse participants in the essence of the brand through events that combine artisanal know-how, culture and tours of historical sites.

Both Annual Calendar models are Boutique Exclusives.

Reference: PAM01363 (Goldtech™ ) and PAM01432 (Platinumtech™ )

Specifications

  • Case: PAM01363 – 45mm polished Panerai Goldtech™, polished Panerai Goldtech™ bezel. See-through sapphire crystal and Panerai Goldtech™ caseback. PAM01432 – 45mm polished Panerai Platinumtech™, polished Panerai Platinumtech™ bezel. See-through sapphire crystal and Panerai Platinumtech™
  • Dial: Blue (PAM01363) or Burgundy (PAM01432) sun-brushed with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Day and date at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock. Months indicator on the rehaut.
  • Crystal: Sapphire crystal formed of corondum
  • Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small seconds, Annual Calendar
  • Movement: Automatic mechanical, P.9010/AC calibre. 7.90 mm thick, 40 jewels, 28,800 vph/4Hz. Incabloc™ anti-shock device. Two barrels. 316 components
  • Power Reserve: 3 days
  • Strap: Dark blue alligator strap with polished Panerai Goldtech™ buckle (PAM01363) / Black alligator strap with polished Panerai Platinumtech™ buckle. (PAM01432)
  • Waterproof: 10 bars (~100 meters)

Availability: Available through Panerai Boutiques worldwide. For more information, head to panerai.com

International Recommended Retail Price: 40,000€ (PAM01363) / 90,000€ (PAM01432)

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In Search Of The Holy (Watch) Grail https://www.watchadvice.com.au/13191/in-search-of-the-holy-watch-grail/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/13191/in-search-of-the-holy-watch-grail/#respond Sun, 12 Mar 2023 02:39:12 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=13191 We all have that one watch in mind that we dream of owning. It may change from time to time, or as we continue our collecting journey it may evolve with our tastes and current attainment level. But nonetheless, there is always that Grail Watch that we think, “I’ll own it one day!”

Watches are one of those things that can be just a nice accessory that tells the time, or can be an all consuming passion for life (Have a guess which end of the spectrum I’m on…) If you fall somewhere near the latter, or lets face it, if it’s more than just a passing hobby, then I would say, most people will have a grail watch, the one that they are lusting after. And for whatever reason you’re not able to get it – be it way out of our price range, or a rare or hard to get watch, or simply, you just can’t justify spending the time or money, it sits there in the back of your mind calling your name.

Getting your hands on your Grail Watch can sometimes feel like you need to be Indiana Jones. Image Courtesy of GQ.

Being an active member of many watch forums here in Australia and overseas, it is interesting what people classify as a grail, which speaks to the range of collectors out there in this horological hobby. For some, it’s the OMEGA Seamaster Professional Diver, for others, maybe a Zenith of sorts (I’ve had a few people comment on my Defy Skyline as their grail) and for others, the unobtanium models at retail, like the Rolex Pepsi Meteorite Dial (one of my close watch aficionado friends’ grail piece), or an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which lets face it, unless you’ve got money to burn on the secondary market, or know someone with an ‘in’ at AP, then you’ll be waiting a while!

Some grails that have been floated around some of the online forums

But what makes a “grail’ watch? The answer to this is like asking, “how long is a piece of string?”, but lets have a go anyway. From my perspective, it’s all about where you are in your collecting journey, what exposure to certain brands you have, education about watches and thrown into the mix, most probably your means to afford different watches at different price points. When I think back over the years, I’ve had many Grail Watches I’ve wanted, and being into watches since I was young, those pieces have differed quite a lot.

When I was 15, the watch I loved most was the OMEGA Seamaster that Pierce Brosnan wore in GoldenEye, and for those that are interested in my previous article to find out more about OMEGA’s association with Bond, you can read all about it here. This stayed my grail watch until I actually was able to buy it, or the more modern version of it in about 2007 – only a mere 12 years later and it was the coolest, and most expensive watch I had owned to that point.

My grail in 2007

Moving through the years after that purchase, my collecting journey, like many others, has evolved as my income has risen slowly over the years, so the price points that we now talk about are much more. I’m also more educated in watches, so my appreciation for certain brands, movements, manufacturing quality and finishing is also a lot higher than what it was 20 years ago. I’ve moved through my journey, like many friends in this game have, and been exposed to a lot of great watches and brands, and also doing this job, many more for trial periods to test and photograph. During this time, post the OMEGA, I’ve had several grails, that I’ve been lucky enough to obtain.

In 2012, it was my Breitling Super Avenger Chronograph (a giant 48mm beast that never failed me in 8 years!) but eventually was way to big for my tastes so was moved on. In 2014 I was fortunate enough to obtain what I considered my ultimate Grail for many years, the Panerai Luminor PAM312 (older sibling of the current PAM1312) which, if you’re interested in how this came about, check it out here. I still have the Panerai today, almost 10 years later, and will always stay in the collection. I had lusted after a Rolex for any years, like many others have, and the Sea-Dweller became my next Grail watch, which I finally secured last year after a 3 year wait on the expression of interest list. If you missed my “Owners Perspective” on this, then I’d encourage you to have a read if you’re thinking about getting one.

Below, the grail journey up to now…

This brings us to today, and what’s my next grail piece? This is a tough question, as there are so many great pieces out there just waiting to be tried and worn. Do I yearn for a Rolex Daytona? Or, could I possibly get my hands on that AP Royal Oak Chronograph with blue Grande Tapisserie dial? This actually is my next Grail, however it’s slightly out of reach currently, so will most probably stay in dreamland for a while.

My Ultimate Grail, for now. AP Royal Oak Chronograph Ref. 26240ST.OO.1320ST.05

And this is a dilemma that faces many collectors out there. Once you’ve obtained your “Grail Watch” or maybe like in my case, a few, what do you do next? You hear watch collectors using the term “Exit Piece”, the one watch that will complete their collection, and thus their collecting journey for good. This is a great romantic notion, but I’m yet to meet a collector that has said this, and actually meant it, or done it. I’m sure there are a few out there, so please let me know if you’re one that’s successfully exited the hobby, going out on high with your Holy Grail!

This however, is all part of the fun of collecting watches, or anything for that matter. There will always be that one piece, that one item that is coveted by collectors that is just out of reach, and a goal to work towards. And once obtained, most likely another goal just around the corner to strive for. For those precious few out there that have managed to achieve their Grail Watch and exit, then I take my hat off to you, as you are quite likely much more enlightened than I am, and have found peace within.

The Patek Philippe 5207 Grand Complication with minute repeater, tourbillion & perpetual calendar could very well be that exit piece for many

Stay tuned as over the next couple of weeks, I’ll cover off some not so obvious grail watches that you should definitely consider, and give you pause for thought in the Search Of The Holy (Watch) Grail Part 2.

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Panerai’s First Boutique In Australia https://www.watchadvice.com.au/13126/panerais-first-boutique-in-australia/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/13126/panerais-first-boutique-in-australia/#respond Mon, 06 Mar 2023 13:56:22 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=13126 Last week Panerai launched its first luxury timepiece boutique in King Street, Sydney, Australia. A special event was held on the 3rd of March to celebrate the momentous occasion, with leading guests, lifestyle media, and esteemed VIP’s all in attendance. While the guests were admiring what the boutique has to offer, they were also treated to Italian canapés made by award-winning restaurant a’Mare and finely curated cocktails to suit the special occasion.

The brand-new Panerai boutique is inspired by the brand’s iconic timepieces and their designs. The boutique features elements of bronze, wood, and corrugated glass which is both undulating and transparent. All these elements come together to give a visual of the world of sea, ships, and underwater exploration. A large wall clock is displayed in the boutique which is large recreation of the dial design of the brand’s submersible timepiece. The iconic hour indices that Panerai dials are known for is recreated beautifully, including the green luminescent.

While the boutique event had plenty to offer, the main attractions were the timepieces, in which some were only available for viewing while others could be purchased on the night. As part of the timepieces on show were two of Panerai’s most outstanding watches. The new Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech and also the Luminor Due TuttoOro.

The Luminor Perpetual Calendar is one of the most challenging complications made in the world of horology. This timepiece is able to indicate the date and automatically recognise months with less than 31 days as well as leap years. The model is now offered in two material variants; Goldtech™ and Platinumtech™.

The Panerai Luminor Due TuttoOro is one of the more elegant and stylish creations from the brand. The simplistic dial combined with Goldtech™ material for the case and bracelet, makes this timepiece an uncomplicated luxury timepiece that can be worn to the highest occasions. The dial of the Panerai Luminor Due TuttoOro is offered in either white or deep marine blue, with the blue being sold exclusively through boutiques only.

Panerai’s first boutique opening in Sydney was a great success, with the guests being able to explore the brand’s timepieces on offer whilst also learning the heritage and history behind what makes Panerai a great luxury brand in the world of horology.


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Celebrating Summer – A Selection Of Our Best Summer Pics https://www.watchadvice.com.au/12926/celebrating-summer-a-selection-of-our-best-summer-pics/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/12926/celebrating-summer-a-selection-of-our-best-summer-pics/#respond Mon, 27 Feb 2023 22:53:07 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=12926 Here in Australia it’s the last day of Summer, and we here at Watch Advice thought, what better way to celebrate a great Summer than the share some of our best Summer watch pics. Warning: Sun and Surf feature in many of these!

Summer! The time to wind down, relax, and do the things that I love the most – heading to the beach, sitting at some nice cafe’s, and heading on holidays with the family. Oh, and taking copious amounts of watch pics along the way. I’ve selected some of my favourite pics from the summer that has just gone, ok, maybe a few from the start of the year as well, but hey, it’s all a bit of fun. Hope you enjoy!

Fun At The Beach

Blue watches always work well in and around water, and the Zenith Defy Skyline and Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Chronograph always take amazing shots when at the beach.

Zenith Defy Skyline under the waves
Breitling SuperOcean Heritage II Limited Edition
Skyline splashing around

Lazing About

Summer is great for doing not not a lot at all, and I’ve been known to spend a few hours of a summer afternoon just lying in the hammock, reading a book and taking an obligatory watch shot! The Tudor Black Bay GMT is handy for knowing what tie zone it is when time doesn’t matter 😉

It’s almost 5 O’clock somewhere right?

Surfs Up!

It’s no good going to the beach, or a tropical island for that fact and not jumping in the water. And with sports watches, and more so dive watches, that’s what they’re designed for, so jump in!

Ocean capture of the SuperOcean
Rolex Sea-Dweller in its elemen
Can’t beat the Fijian waters at sunset!
Got taken out by the wave to get this photo!

Coffees and Cafes

What better way to start a summer day than at the cafe, watching the world go by? Plus if you’re like me and can’t get going until you’ve had your morning caffeine hit, you understand!

SuperOcean Heritage on the leather, perfect for dressing it up a little at a fancy cafe!
Tudor GMT taking it easy in Palm Cove
Rare pic of the Seamaster out of water…

Rockpool Fun

If you have young kids you’ll know that they love rock pools when they’re at the beach. Plus for a “Watch Dad”, these make great backdrops for photos. The Rolex Sea-Dweller in its element here.

Rock ledges and Rolex
One of the best pics I’ve taken of the Zenith.
Sea-Dweller about to be swallowed up by a “giant” wave (or a small splash depending on your perspective!)

Waterfalls

Waterfalls you ask? Why not?! Well, in my case, the first two is a waterfall by the pool at a resort in North Queensland, the third, torrential rain in Fiji. That counts right? Either way, it makes for great photos. Next time I’m out exploring real waterfalls, I’ll be sure to get pics…

One of my favourite summer watches – the SMP 300 Diver
Small moment before the kids came down to the pool
Monsoonal rain in Fiji – still water falling!

So, there you have some of my favourite summer pics, and as we say goodbye to summer, and hello Autumn, I’m looking back at these and the memories they’ve helped me create, and also, remind me of what I was doing at the time with the family, as I’m quite often snapping these in the brief moments between having fun or spending some quality “me” time. I hoped you enjoyed them, and I look forward to what the cooler months bring!

Summer Sunsets – see you next year Summer, you’ve been great!
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How Panerai Cemented My Love Of Watches https://www.watchadvice.com.au/12668/how-panerai-cemented-my-love-of-watches/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/12668/how-panerai-cemented-my-love-of-watches/#respond Sat, 18 Feb 2023 10:32:31 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=12668 For any watch lover, there is always that “one watch” that either started their journey, or cemented their love of them. As a lifelong watch lover, Panerai was that brand, and the PAM 312 was that watch!

Panerai is one of those polarizing brands. They have a great history, but over the past 10 years of so, they’ve lost their lustre and have been the centre of some controversy in the watch world. However, say what you want, the one thing that people can’t deny is how iconic the Luminor Marina and Submersible are. You see those curved edges on the case and THAT crown protector and you know it’s a PAM – you can spot them a mile off!

Just a casual coffee day

Others have tried to emulate it, but none have really succeeded in achieving the look and feel that a Panerai has on the wrist. Couple this with its rise in the late 90’s and early 2000’s due to its popularity among action heroes such as Sly Stallone, Jason Statham, Arnie and the like, and it’s easy to see why they became so popular. For me, it was less the action star association, and more that many of the successful people I was working with back in the early to mid 2000’s owned one.

Seeing Panerai’s on successful people’s wrist, in hindsight, probably swayed my subconscious mind to want one – being a junior and aspiring professional myself, why not aspire to that? But more than this, I thought they looked great, were big (as was the trend then) and were very unique. Big bold numbers and indices, simple dials, big crown guard and on a solid rubber strap, what wasn’t to like? Plus the quick change bolts allowing you to easily swap out the straps was to my knowledge a first for a major luxury watch brand. Even now, quick change straps are only becoming more common and Panerai really set this in motion for many.

Unmistakable sandwich dial and lume.

Fast forward 10 years to 2014, and whilst on my honeymoon in Italy, I was lucky enough to be able to finally purchase a Panerai, something I had wanted to do for almost 10 years. To make this occasion even a little more special, I was able to visit the Officine Panarai Orologeria – Panerai’s flagship store in the brand’s birthplace itself; Florence.

For any watch lover, it should be on your must visit list. It has been the historical home to Panerai dating back to 1860, and when you go there (and I highly recommend it) you won’t be disappointed. It sits in the Piazza San Giovanni, facing Florence’s impressive Duomo, only a few minutes walk from the museum where they display the works of Michelangelo. And if you walk straight down the road towards the river, you will hit the Ponte Vecchio, another must see.

The Officine Panerai Boutique: Orologeria in Folrence. Picture courtesy of Panerai

Interestingly, I didn’t have a specific reference in mind to buy, just a Luminor Marina. The PAM312 was the model I ended up purchasing. It had the beautiful 1950 style cushion case in brushed steel, setting it apart from the non-1950 line at the time with the full polished case. It also had the newer style sandwich dial, with the full disk of lume under the dial, as opposed to the traditional or original painted dial, and to add to it, the 312 has the small seconds had at 9 O’clock, and the date at 3. At 44 mm, it was big, but given I had a 48 mm Breitling Super Avenger at the time, it felt on the smaller side. I even got them to throw in an additional leather strap to sweeten the deal, meaning I had the choice of dark grey calf, tan alligator and the traditional rubber.

The PAM312 also has a 3 day power reserve, which almost 10 years ago was a rarity when most other watches were 42-48 hours and those that didn’t were the higher horology brands with price points at least 2-3X that of Panerai. It’s not so much of a stand out these days given most of the mainstream luxury brands have model lines with 70hrs as standard, but the fact that I have a watch that is almost 10 years old and has more power reserve than many of my newer ones, that’s still cool in my mind. Oh, and the see through case back means you can admire the somewhat industrial or utilitarian P9000 movement whenever you want.

P9000 Calibre through the caseback

Whilst the honeymoon should have been enough, this really made it even that more special, and a moment I’ll always remember. The 312 has been with me through a lot, and even had to be sent back to Switzerland about 4 years ago after a major run in with some cement flooring. Thankfully, it was returned to me like brand new (and thank goodness for insurance!).

It’s the one watch that I will not sell – 1) because it has sentimental value being bought with my wife on my honeymoon, and 2), as it represents the real love affair for me with watches. I had wanted one for so long, and for me, was a combination of hard work, saving, and the most expensive watch purchase I had made at that time.

Today, it doesn’t get as much wear as it used to. Tastes change and so does my collection, but it’s always there ready to be worn, which is still at least once a week or so. It is the perfect watch to wear casually, to the beach, on holidays, and when I travel overseas, it’s the one watch I take with me as I know it can handle anything. Its solid and sturdy, has brilliant legibility at night with a lume that lasts all night, and with a quick change hour hand, great when travelling between time zones.

Putting the PAM312 through its paces

And this is what watches are really about. The stories that they can tell, or representing a time in your life that you can literally take with you wherever you are. For a travel lover like me, they also represent the places I’ve been, and strangely enough, I do choose what watches I take with me depending on where and how long I’m travelling. The PAM312 usually makes the cut, unless I’m doing a quick 1-2 day interstate business trip, but then again, on the dark brown leather strap, it does look great with less formal business attire.

Less formal work day with the brown calfskin strap

And when looking back over all my photo’s I’ve taken, half of them watch shots admittedly, I’m instantly taken back to the exact time I took it, and the feeling of being in that moment. Plus there is just something cool and comforting about seeing the Panerai on my wrist, the domed sapphire crystal catching the light reflection, and knowing that it is something special. And this, dear watch lovers, makes me smile.

Taking in the sunset in Fiji

Reference: PAM0312

Specification

  • Case: 44 mm Brushed steel, fixed polished steel bezel
  • Dial: Matte black sandwich dial with SuperLuminova and small seconds
  • Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
  • Water Resistance: 300m (30BAR)
  • Movement: Panerai Calibre P9000.
  • Power Reserve: 72 hours
  • Strap: Black rubber and choice of leather included. Integrated quick change system

Availability: Discontinued. Updated PAM01312 available online at panerai.com, Panerai Boutiques and Authorised Dealers

Australian Retail Pricing (PAM1312): AUD $12,500

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