I think Taylor Swift said it well in her song Blank Space, when she sung “I’m a nightmare dressed like a daydream”, which is exactly what this scenario is for many of us. A daydream that could be a nightmare for us indecisive watch lovers! This question came up when talking to one of my colleagues a few weeks ago; what would you buy with $100k? The honest answer is, I have no idea, as the options and possibilities are endless!

Is the $100k a watch at retail, or on the grey market? Does it have to be new, or second hand? And when splurging that type of cash on just ONE watch, do you go for a daily wearer, or one that you pull out at special occasions to show off? Now you can see the whole nightmare part of this daydream scenario. Again, thanks TayTay.

Watch Advice is about giving advice, so naturally, for anyone out there that’s blessed to have this first world problem, we have a five great choices for you. And for those just playing along at home and daydreaming about such a scenario, then dream about some of the below pieces gracing your wrist. Maybe one day one of them will!

Just note, all the prices are at retail, as we’re assuming that you can buy at retail new from a store, not the grey market or second hand, and with you’re new found wealth, why not – it is an imaginary scenario after all!

Breguet Classique Hora Mundi 5727

Maybe not a daily wearer, unless you sit in an office all day as a CEO that is. Nonetheless, Breguet are known for their beautiful watch making, and with $100k at your disposal, this is right on the mark! The 18k Gold Hora Mundi 5727 combines instant time-zone jump with synchronised date, 24-hour and city indications, perfect for those wanting to travel and do it in style!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $100,000

Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Piaget is massively underrated in my opinion, and if you’re wanting something different with serious horological chops, then the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a fantastic statement piece that says “I don’t follow the crowd”. The green dial is stunning, and Piaget pioneered the Ultra Thin movement over 50 years ago, which you can read here. It’s a 42mm case, only 8.65mm thick, and to cram all those complications into a movement that’s only 4mm thick is a work of art and science!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $89,000

AP Royal Oak Pink Gold Chronograph 38mm

No daydream scenario would be complete without at least entertaining an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. In this instance, the pink gold 38mm Chronograph will do the trick! And as these wear large, it will feel like you’ve a 40-41mm on the wrist, and the pink gold combined with the blue Grande Tapisserie dial is perfect and says you’ve made it! It’s a tad over the limit, but hey, only a couple of grand!

Australian Approximate Retail Price: $102,000

Marco Lang Zweigesicht Variation III In Platinum

Marco Lang may not be a name you’ve heard of, but the German watchmaker is doing some incredible work, like the Zweigesicht Variation III in Platinum. With only 18 watches available, you’ll be sure to stand out. This model has a white-fired skeletonized dial in solid silver, covered with blue, translucent enamel “grand feu” and Cathedral hands in blued steel. If that wasn’t enough, the shapes and materials of the hands, hand engravings in the movement and on the case, even different cuts and polishes can be customised for you.

Price based on dial and customisation chosen, circa $100,000

Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire

Hublot gets a bad wrap, but to be honest, they do things with materials most other brands wouldn’t think of, and the R&D that goes into some of their pieces is quite amazing. And if you’re not afraid to show off a little, then the Big Bang Unico Sapphire 42 is the perfect statement piece, after all, you’ve got the cash, so why not flaunt it a little. With an all sapphire case, skeletonised dial and the HUB1280 Unico in house movement with flyback chronograph, you’re actually getting a decent watch under all that showiness.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $96,000

So there you have it – 5 watches that will let you blow $100,000 in one hit! And if you don’t like any of these suggestions, then feel free to drop us a comment in the section below and tell us what you’d buy with a lazy $100k?

But is the blue dial overplayed? Is it over-used by watch brands? Blue dial timepieces have been around for decades. One of the first blue dials to appear in production was from IWC in 1967. In its early days, blue dials were reserved for limited edition timepieces for a lot of brands, signifying its specialty. This still is the case with a few brands today (think IWC, TAG Heuer, etc) even though blue dials are very popular in the modern age.

Even with its popularity, we feel that blue dials are essentially a timeless design. No matter how many blue-dial watches you see, every brand has its own take on it, making each watch stand out in its own way. There are also quite a few different shades of blue. From H.Moser & Cie’s incredible Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel (which you can read about here) to TAG Heuer’s TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf Special Edition (read here), there is a variety when it comes to blue dials to suit all kinds of personalities and tastes.

With this in mind, we want to showcase some of the best blue dials to come out of Watches and Wonders 2023. Not just any shade of blue dial however as there would be far too many options. In particular, we want to showcase the navy blue dials.

Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar

This timepiece is a brand first for Panerai. For the first time, they have introduced an annual calendar into their Radomir collection. They have introduced two variants, with this variant being made from Goldtech^TM with a blue sun-brushed dial.

The Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar comes with a beautiful sun-brushed sandwich dial which is overlaid on top of the disc of Super-Luminova, with the deep blue accompanying the Goldtech™. This blue dial is perfectly complemented by the white and rose gold details (hands and hour indices).

If you want to read more on Panarai’s latest blue dial beauty, click here.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Bi-colour

Oris is accustomed to using beautifully blue dials on their timepieces, especially on their Aquis range. For this year’s Watches and Wonders, Oris released a fun summer timepiece, in either a beautiful forest green or deep blue.

What makes this Aquis model stand out from the rest of the blue dials in Oris’s range? It would have to be the combination of the 18-carat gold finish with the blue. The bezel has an outer edge made from 18-carat. The details inside the dial, such as the hour hands and hour indices all have gold finishes, which along with the white SuperLumi-Nova contrasts beautifully against the blue backdrop.

Read more on this blue-dialed Oris Aquis 18k gold version here.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic in Rose Gold

At only 5.3mm thick, the Piaget Altiplano is not only a stunning timepiece but a masterful creation as well. This new Altiplano Ultimate Automatic in Rose Gold is very much similar to last year’s release, now just without the diamonds and bling.

And the dial? A stunning piece of art. The dial is carefully created to be as aesthetically pleasing as possible. A half-skeleton dial is combined with an off-center circular sun-burst main dial in a dark navy blue. This is finished off with rose gold details that complement the dial and case nicely.

Read more about the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic in Rose Gold

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

This list wouldn’t be complete without including a blue-dialed timepiece from TAG Heuer. They have released quite a few great models already this year, but a blue-dialed timepiece that stood out the most for us was the latest TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2023.

The watch speaks for itself. A racing-inspired chronograph, the dial is filled with colourful reminders of TAG Heuer’s racing heritage and racing timepieces. This model has a signature blue sunray-brushed finish, which plays with light beautifully.

Read more about the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph here.

Baume Mercier Riviera Azur 300m

A blue dial with a twist. The Baume Mercier Riviera Azur 300m is no ordinary blue-dialed timepiece. Released as part of Baume Mercier’s 50th-anniversary celebrations for the Riviera collection, this new Azur 300m is a fashion sport-chich timepiece that can take a beating.

This diving watch comes with a smoked blue (or grey sapphire variant) that has a transparent wave decoration. A semi-skeletonised timepiece in which you can actually see the date ring underneath but not much else of the Baumatic manufacture movement. The transparent waves were inspired by the Mediterranean seafloor and the images of the ocean during summer. Perfectly suited for a blue-dialed timepiece.

If you want to learn more about the Azur 300m or see more in-depth pictures click here!

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

One of our favourite blue dials released during this year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 has to be the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date. The shade of blue on this lacquered dial is truly breathtaking and deserves to be seen up close in person.

As the name suggests, this model comes with a moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, which is beautifully decorated, and then a retrograde date indicator along the top half of the dial. The 18k white gold hour markers, and hands, along with the steel case and bracelet only aid this watch further in making it a visual masterpiece.

See more beautiful pictures and information on this timepiece here!

Grand Seiko TENTAGRAPH

This year saw Seiko unveil a completely new watch for the brand. A mechanical chronograph timepiece. The Grand Seiko TENTAGRAPH is introduced into the world of chronograph timepieces with the precision of high-beat movement and long power reserve.

The Blue “Mt. Iwate” pattern takes inspiration from the mountain that’s visible from Studio Shizukuishi. The rich deep blue of the dial is a reference to the night sky above the mountain. The timepiece’s readability is enhanced due to the direction contrast of the large hour indices and hands, which have also been coated in SuperLumi-Nova.

If you want to learn more about Grand Seiko’s first ever mechanical chronograph, click here!

With this display of different blue dials, the question of are blue dialed timepieces overused can be answered and safely put to rest. We think that while yes, blue dials are common, it is certainly not something that should be taken for granted. From even just the above chosen timepieces, it’s evident that no two brands showcase the same dial features. As we mentioned earlier, each brand has their own taken on the colour and finish of blue on the dial. And even if two brand’s shared this same dial colour and finish, what set’s them apart is the functions, design of hour indices and hands and also the material’s chosen for these features on the dial, which ultimately give the final touch to the blue dial.

Each year, the watch world waits to see what wonders come out of the industry’s premier trade show. Some years we see brilliance, and others years not so much. I feel that this year was a good year for the watch world, and we saw some really great pieces launched, some cool novelties and some brands just did some nice and timely updates to their core models. And from all reports, it seems that most commentators felt the same. So without further ado, here are my top 12 picks.

Piaget’s Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

Whilst Piaget added two new Perpetual Calendar models to their Polo line, my pick was the Rose gold and green. It just looks great, and builds on their release from earlier in year. At 8.65mm, it’s thin, and a the movement is stunning and complex. which can be seen through there caseback.

The fact that Piaget has also given it the quick change SingleTouch system, to swap out the green alligator or rubber strap just adds to this allowing you change the look, depending on your mood. At AUD $116,000, it’s not cheap, but you get a lot of watch for this!

You can read all about it here.

Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

Panerai went back to their roots this year, and told us their Storia Leggendaria. With this, bringing us the new Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 days) in hand finished eSteel.

Whilst not the most techically impressive, although it is an 8-day manual wind, so this is pretty decent, these are cool looking, and do hark back to their original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Also, each model is hand finished to give it the distressed look, so essentially, all unique!

Check out our write up about it here

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

Jaeger-LeCoultre focused on their Reverso Tribute line this year, and some of their models was absolutely fantastic. One of which was their Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which gives you 2 great watches in one!

Whilst each model looked stunning, my pic was the Pink Gold variant. The way the details contrast on the chronograph face, along with the “floating” look of the dial and bottom register are second to none!

For more on this, click here.

Hermes H08 In Rose Gold & Titanium

The Hermes H08 in Rose Gold and Titanium was a surprise for me. I’m not normally a fan of Hermes watches, but this model, in this combination jut works, and looks both casual, and just a little bit formal – it’s a paradox!

Hermes have used a good mix of Rose gold, titanium and black ceramic, and paired with the black rubber strap and the multi-faceted dial, all works together and is something a little different to the norm.

You can check out our write up on it here

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN “Oceana”

I’m a sucker for a good pilot’s watch, and need to add one back into the collection. And the new IWC Pilot’s Chrono 41mm in Oceana Blue is a hot contender. Although, speaking to the IWC boutique, there’s not a lot of detail on when this will be in, so I guess I’ll have to wait.

IWC have done some great releases in coloured ceramic and this is just the next to come out, and with the denim strap, looks like the perfect casual summer watch. Blending this with IWC’s DNA in pilots watches and you’ve a great piece.

Fly over to our write up on it here

Tudor Black Bay 41 Burgundy Dial

Tudor are a little more “edgy” than their big sister, but sometimes, a nice update is all you need. The Tudor Black Bay 41 with the burgundy dial was just this. Nothing ground-breaking, but a slimmer case, refined details on the dial and a choice now of three different bracelet/strap options with their T-Fit micro adjust.

Tudor have also made the movement just that little bit better – now Master Chronometer certified to 0/+5s per day and keeping the 70 hour power reserve. What more could you ask for?

For more details, check it out here

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm XPS

Chopard’s new Alpine Eagle in Lucent Steel and a stunning Monte Rosa pink dial and small seconds was one of those watches where Chopard took an already good watch and made it better! The addition of the small seconds is a nice touch, and the dial is just a stunning colour.

In this model, you now the calibre L.U.C 96.40-L movement, meaning the watch has slimmed down to just 8mm thick and the movement is beautiful with an 18k micro rotor powering it.

You can find out more about this model here

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

The Odysseus Chronograph was one of the more truly unique releases at this years event, and it was a first for the brand, having never done an automatic chronograph before now.

One of the most interesting aspects of the Odysseus Chronograph is the dial configuration using the outer track and the central seconds and minutes hands to tell the elapsed time, rather than sub dials. Plus the re-set to zero function is pretty cool, and something not seen before.

You can read all about it here

Rolex Yacht-Master Titanium

Rolex aren’t normally known for their innovative releases, but this year, they’ve come out with a first for The Crown – a sports watch in Titanium in the form of the Yacht-Master in 42mm. This is a great move from Rolex, adding another variant to the Yacht-Master line, and giving people a watch that is less dressy than the standard 40mm models, and a completely different look to the precious metal models.

It’s a great stealthy looking sports watch, and due to the titanium, is light and durable and fit for the purpose it was designed for, as we saw when Sir Ben Ainslie wore the prototype a couple of years back – leaving the world waiting for its release!

Check out my thoughts on the Yacht-Master Ti here

Grand Seiko Tentagraph

Grand Seiko have never done a fully mechanical chronograph before, having limited this complication to their spring drive models. But this year, they released a fairly under the radar chronograph that is fully mechanical. However, look at the details and its more impressive than it would initially seem.

A Ten beats per seconds chronograph, accurate to -3/+5s per day, tested over 20 days, housed in an all titanium case and finished to the standards that you expect from Grand Seiko. Its all in the small details, and this is what makes this watch a sleeper!

To check out the full write up, click here

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X

This was probably the craziest watch release this year (I cold be wrong), but you’d expect nothing less from Roger Dubuis. The Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X is designed in the theme of the new limited edition 50th anniversary Lamborghini Countach LPI 800-4. Hence the name.

Lamborghini design cues are all over this watch, from the engine case between the 90° V-Shape Double Flying Tourbillon, to the way the case looks like the wheels and tyres. It’s a serious piece of kit, to go with a serious car. But not for us mere mortals at $1,210,000 and limited to 8 pieces, I won’t be lining up anytime soon!

Check out the full write up and pics here

Bell & Ross Diver White Bronze

This may not have been on many people’s top 12, but I’ve included it for this reason. Bell & Ross have created a driver with a difference, and whilst not vintage in style, it’s got vintage style cues that just work with the overall design aesthetic.

The bronze case, paired with the opaline dial and brown strap give it a unique look, and the fact that it is ISO-6425 complied means it’s a true divers watch. It may not be for everyone, but that in my eyes isn’t a bad thing, as it means you probably won’t see many in the wild, and that’s a talking point in my mind!

Check out our coverage of it here

Well that’s it for another year of Watches and Wonders. It was a great show this year, and there were some brilliant releases, and not so brilliant releases. Whilst I couldn’t cover all of the releases here (it wouldn’t be a top 12 if I could!), you can check out all of the brands and models covered at Watches and Wonder 2023 here.

The Piaget Altiplano is a beautiful watch – no questions, and with this, a marvel of watch engineering to create the movement to fit into the 5.3mm case. Whilst not the thinnest movement in the world, (the Richard Mille UP-01 Ferrari at 1.75mm takes this record for now) this is still impressive nonetheless. Piaget was the pioneer for thin watches, originally holding the record for the thinnest movement in the world with the in-house 12P movement launched in 1960, and as recently as 2018, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept G0A45502 held this at a mere 2mm thin.

The new Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic builds on this philosophy of the ultra-thin watch, albeit a much more wearable 5.3mm – at this thickness, there is a little bit less fear of bending or breaking it!

The new reference, G0A48125, is essentially the same watch as released last year. It’s just lost the diamonds around the bezel, making this a little more unisex, and a little less bling. Measuring 41mm in diameter, it’s not a small watch, but the thin case and short lugs makes this a very wearable watch, one would suggest wearing slightly smaller than the 41mm suggests.

 The dial is a tiny work of art, with the circular sun-burst main dial housing the rose gold hands, surrounded by the satin-brushed blue bridges and movement in full display. How Piaget puts the movement together is quite clever, fusing the movement to the external parts, using the case as the plate to which the 219 components of the mechanism are affixed. This complex structure depends on an inverted construction of the movement, with bridges mounted on the dial side, a suspended barrel held in place by a single bridge – providing a 48-hour power reserve – and off-centre hours and minutes display at 10 o’clock. 

The entirety of this ultra-thin movement and hand system is held in the height of the balance, while the gold rotor coated in black PVD is placed at the periphery in the same quest to optimise use of the space. All components are decorated in the grand watchmaking tradition, with a circular satin-brushed plate, sunburst satin-finished bevelled bridges, sunburst or circular-grained wheels, and screws coated with black PVD. In the final flourish of this masterpiece of finesse, the index-assembly is stamped “P”.

All this creates the overall aesthetic of the new Piaget Altiplano Ultimate, and paired with the blue alligator strap, the rose gold case breaks the blue dial and strap combination nicely. For people wanting a dress watch, that will turn heads, then this watch is a genuine contender for you money.

Reference: G0A47125

Specification

• Case: 12mm x 5.3mm thick
• Dial: Dark blue sun-brushed dial, with satinised blue bridges and plates on display
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal
• Water resistance: 20 metres
• Movement: 910P, Manufacture Piaget, set bezel ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement. 21’600 VpH/ 3Hz
• Power reserve: 48 Hours
• Strap: Blue alligator strap with 18K white gold ardillon buckle

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: AUD $52,200

Availability: To Be Confirmed. Head to piaget.com to find out more.

Back in February, Piaget started the year off with a bang, and introduced their first Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin to the Polo line. In case you missed it, you can read about it here. Clearly they were on to a good thing, and for Watches and Wonders 2023 they’ve launched two brand new pieces, adding to the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Collection.

The first is a stunning rose gold variant with the same colour dial as the original Perpetual Calendar. Green and gold are always great colour combinations, and with the deep emerald green offsetting the rose gold, Piaget have created a beautiful contrasting case and dial. This is then offset by the same dark emerald green strap, in either Alligator or rubber, which can be swapped out via their quick change SingleTouch system.

Piaget have kept the same size and dimensions of the steel model – 42mm diameter and just 8.65mm thick with the same 1255P ultra-thin 4mm calibre inside. The movement powers all the complications on the dial, including the date, month (along with leap-year indication) and weekday along with the moon phase and leap year cycle with 42hr power reserve.

In addition to the Rose Gold, a third Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin model has been unveiled, and aligning it with their wider jewellery line, this model has on Obsidian dial and a blue sapphire set bezel in a white gold case.

Obsidian, which is a type of volcanic glass that occurs when Lava cools rapidly, isn’t quite a stone and not quite a mineral, and as a result, it can make for some stunning features in jewellery when cut specific ways. It also means that no dial is quite the same, meaning that the owner of the Piaget Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in Obsidian will always have a unique piece.

Set into the white gold bezel are around 60 deep blue sapphires, set in a graduating formation that mirrors the lines from thicker to thin, depending on the position on them in relation to the dial and bezel. Whilst some people may not be a fan of gem set watches, I feel Piaget have done a good job here as the sapphires blend seamlessly into design, and are not too over the top for most tastes.

Again, Piaget have added both a rubber and Alligator strap in the same deep blue to compliment the dial and sapphires, which can be swapped out with the quick change SingleTouch system.

Both models are 30 meters / 3 bar water resistant, meaning they are fine for daily wear, however, even with the rubber strap, I’m not sure you’d want to do much water sports with these on. However, if you’re looking for a statement piece that is a little different from the norm, then either of these two model would be perfect for that.

Reference: GOA48006 (Rose Gold) & GOA48007 (Obsidian)

Specification

• Case: 42mm x 8.65mm thick in either Rose or White Gold
• Dial: Dark green emerald dial (Rose Gold variant)/ Deep blue Obsidian dial. Both with calendar indications displayed in three sub-counters. The date, month and weekday indicators are at 3, 12, and 9 o’clock, with the leap years indication within the month indicator. Moonphase indicator at 6 o’clock. SuperLuminova coating on hands and indexes. 
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal
• Bezel: Fixed bezel in Rose Gold, or gem set blue Sapphire (Obsidian variant)
• Water resistance: 30 metres
• Movement: Manufacture self-winding mechanical 1255P, 4mm thick at 21’600 VPH
• Power reserve: 42 Hours
• Strap: Rose Gold – matching green interchangeable rubber and Alligator straps / Obsidian – matching blue interchangeable rubber and Alligator straps with folding buckle

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: AUD $116,000 (Rose Gold) / $174,000 (Obsidian/Sapphire)

Availability: From September 2023 onwards. Discover more details at piaget.com

When people think of Grail Watches, many people think abut rare and expensive models. Maybe your mind wanders to a Jacob and Co Astronomia Sky, or you fancy a Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe? Two very nice marvels of engineering timepieces, but unless you’re a very wealthy, and seasoned collector (or Jay Z) very out of reach for mere mortals like most of us! However in this article, I’ll look at a range of potential grail watches that are obtainable, and as explained in the previous article, a Grail Watch can change across your collecting journey based on your experience with brands, knowledge of the industry, maturity and budget. And just for fun, many of these won’t be your go-to grails, but some left of centre pieces that will (possibly) make you re-think your choices.

Two very impressive Grail Watches – Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe and the Jacob and Co. Astronomia Sky.

The Novice Collector

When many of us enter the watch world, we have some ideas of what we’d love to own one day. Now I’m making an assumption here that as a novice starting your collecting journey, you’re not flushed with cash and your first watch isn’t a Daytona. Maybe you’ve dipped your toes in the water with a TAG Heuer Aquaracer as a great entry level steel sports watch, or you want something slightly different to fuel your adventurous spirit and decided on a Longines Spirit Zulu Time – two great choices for under AUD $5,000 and a solid start to your collection. But what would a potential grail watch be in this point of your collecting journey? Let’s explore a couple of options:

IWC Pilots Chronograph 41

IWC are know for their Pilot’s watches, and the Pilots Watch Chronograph in Blue is a great Grail watch for those that have a sense of adventurous spirit. Great looking, wears well and is versatile – can be dressed up or down depending on your preference. A little bit of casual luxury at its best.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $11,400

Zenith Chronomaster Sport

Zenith has a great history and the El Primero movement is classic, and at one point in time, Zenith supplied the Chronograph movement to Rolex to use in the Daytona. The Chronomaster Sport when released a couple of years ago was an instant hit! Despite some calling it Fake Daytona, this is a good looking watch and the perfect Grail for those wanting a great blend of classic and modern looks in a sports watch.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $16,600

The Intermediate Collector

So you’ve collecting now for about 5 or so years. You’ve got some decent pieces in the collection, perhaps you’ve been lucky to obtain one of the above Novice Grails, and you’ve now moved your Grail Goal to something a little higher. You want something that people will instantly notice, and recognise, and know you’re serious about watches. So what do you put on your list? Here’s a couple of pieces that you could aim for…

Rolex Yacht-Master 40

Whilst not much more price wise than a Chronomaster Sport, the fact that this is a Rolex puts it into a higher tier, as generally speaking, you’ve had to have bought a few pieces through your chosen dealer to score one of these (Unless you buy grey or 2nd hand, then you’re paying more!) The Yacht-Master is a great Grail choice as it’s not your standard Submariner or GMT Master II or Daytona that everyone lusts after. It’s both sporty and elegant with the polishing on the case and inner links, can be dressed up or down and is just that little bit different!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $17,350

Omega Blue Side Of The Moon

Now here is one for the true watch lovers. The Omega Blue Side Of The Moon (BSOTM) with moonsphase, Ceragold bezel and Adventurine dial with 18k Sedna Gold indices in an all blue ceramic case looks visually stunning, and stands out from the crowd. The Adventurine dial mimics the night sky and each dial is unique, due to the way the glass is made, and the Senda Gold Moon on the moonsphase display is stunning. At 44.5mm it’s on the larger side, but wears very well!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $22,500

The Seasoned Collector

You’ve been in the game now for a while, you’ve got a pretty good knowledge of most things watch related, and you’ve bought, sold and built your collection over many years. In all probability, you’re a little older and financially secure (unless you’re a crypto kid, won the lotto, or have mastered your TikTok influencer game!) and now you’re looking for that “special piece” to round out your collection…for now. Two timepieces that you could explore adding to your wrist, I mean, list:

Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Yes, you read that right. Piaget. I could have gone with a Rose Gold Daytona with diamond baguettes, but that would be too obvious. The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a fantastic statement piece that says “I don’t follow the crowd”. The green dial is stunning, and Piaget pioneered the Ultra Thin movement over 50 years ago, which you can read here. It’s a 42mm case, only 8.65mm thick, and to cram all those complications into a movement that’s only 4mm thick is a work of art and science!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $89,000

Breguet Classique Hora Mundi 5727

Breguet are known for their beautiful watch making, and whilst not a hype watch brand, they are steeped in history, and have some very elegant and classic pieces. The 18k Gold Hora Mundi 5727 combines instant time-zone jump with synchronised date, 24-hour and city indications, perfect for those wanting to travel and do it in style!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $100,000

Money Is No Object

You’ve made it. You don’t worry about money and the world is your oyster. Perhaps you’re an A-List Hollywood celebrity, or a multi-platinum recording artist and your watch collection has it’s own room in your mansion. And for us mortals, these Grail Watches are what dreams are made of, or rather, just in our dreams! However, I won’t be showing any Patek Philippe’s or AP’s here, again those are too obvious. Here are some alternative pieces to drool over!

Blancpain Villeret Carrousel Volant Une Minute

Blancpain may be known for their dive watches, but their complications are special. The Carrousel Volant Une Minute has a one-minute flying carrousel complication that Blancpain has revived and incorporated into a watch for the first time and all enclosed into a 43mm Platinum case and 14mm thick. Oh, and it’s limited edition too just to ensure exclusivity.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $293,200

Roger Dubuis Excalibur DT Black Ceramic

Not for the faint of heart, Roger Dubuis makes some out there watches, but they are engineering marvels, on par with the likes of Richard Mille. The Excalibur DT Black Ceramic is a manual winding, Double Flying Tourbillon, limited to 28 pieces in a 45mm case. Oh, and it’s got a Geneva Seal, so the movement is up there with the best. This is a real stealth baller watch on another level!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $415,000

So fellow watch friends, there are some grail watch choices that you can aspire to, and work towards. They may not be the most obvious, or the most popular choices that many would have on their list, but they are fantastic pieces that should be considered. Happy collecting, and I hope that you find your Holy (Watch) Grail.

Piaget has launched out of the blocks in 2023 with their latest iteration of the iconic Polo line, this time with the brand new Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin powered by the 1255P calibre. Not only has Piaget brought to life one of watchmaking’s most sophisticated complications, but they have added one of my personal favourites to it- a moon phase display.

Piaget has designed the calibre 12555P to advance the day, date, and year until 2100 – including the months, moon phases and leap-year cycle. Perpetual Calendars are engineering marvels in their own right. Piaget has brought its heritage and experience in Ultra Thin movements to this to create a calibre that is only 4 mm thick.

The Art Of Ultra Thin

Piaget has built its reputation first in the development and manufacturing of ultra-thin components and then in the development of ultra-thin movements.

“Combining watchmaking prowess, high-precision design and daring creativity, the in-house 12P movement launched in 1960 was the thinnest in the world because it drew on the idea of using a micro-rotor to ensure its ultra-thinness. Fifty years later, this calibre, in turn, gave rise to the new generation of 1200P calibre.“

For Piaget’s new 1255P ultra-thin 4 mm calibre, the Manufacture drew on the ultra-thin 1200P calibre with its extreme slimness and proven reliability while adding the Perpetual Calendar with the moon-phase mechanism. At just 8.65 mm thick overall, the new 42mm Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin brings the universe to the wrist while retaining the vibrant colours that the brand and Polo collection has become known for.

Style and Function

A stunning dark emerald-green dial with a gadroon pattern (now famous on Piaget’s Polo line) houses three subdials for the date, month (along with leap-year indication) and weekday at 9, 12 and 3 o’clock, along with the moon phase indication at 6 o’clock. True to Piaget tradition, the subdials incorporate several finishes, a mix of sunburst, polished and gadroon insets, adding visual richness to the dial, and giving it the character it deserves. To make the dial legible at night, the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin fills both the hands and indices with generous amounts of SuperLuminova.

The gadroon design on the dial extends down to the bracelet, a nostalgic nod to vintage Polo models, whilst complimenting the same design on the case, which has been found on the Polo since 1979. This gives the bracelet a multi-faceted look that adds another dimension to the watch, catching the light as it hugs the wrist. The other major enhancement that Piaget has introduced is their brand-new interchangeable SingleTouch system, allowing the bracelet to be easily changed out for the comfortable rubber strap included. This allows you to change the watch’s personality to suit most occasions, from a dressier look to a sporty one.

A Legacy Of Effortless Distinction

Piaget says of the Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin:

“The quintessential encounter between haute horlogerie and everyday wearability, the Piaget Polo slips seamlessly from day to night, public to private. Always fitting, never blending, it offers a contemporary narrative for the boldest, most versatile identities”.

In simple terms, Piaget has blended the complexity of unique watchmaking with the form and functionality that make the Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin both wearable and stylish and done so without compromise. The Piaget Polo is a sophisticated watch with style, elegance, charm and just that little bit of extravagance.

The Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin exudes this and more, and whether its wearer is the most discerning aficionado, or just a lover of great watches, in Piaget’s words, “The Polo is an invitation to liberate one’s versatility and self-expression, igniting a unique ability to fit in yet stand out.” In my eyes, uniqueness is a great quality everyone should embrace throughout their life, and I think that Piaget understands that, delivering this through the art of watchmaking. The Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin delivers on this.

Reference: GOA48005

Specification

• Case: 42mm x 8.65mm thick
• Case: Ultra-thin with sapphire crystal display case back. 
• Dial: Dark green emerald dial with calendar indications displayed in three sub-counters. The date, month and weekday indicators are at 3, 12, and 9 o’clock, with the leap years indication within the month indicator. Moonphase indicator at 6 o’clock. SuperLuminova coating on hands and indexes. 
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal
• Water resistance: 30 metres
• Movement: Manufacture self-winding mechanical 1255P, 4mm thick at 21’600 VPH
• Power reserve: 42 Hours
• Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet with an additional green interchangeable rubber strap and folding buckle

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: AUD $89,000

Availability: From September 2023 onwards

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept first came to fruition after four years of research and development on February 7th, 2017 at 7.47 am. This marked the birth of an icon, and ever since all (AUC) models bear this significant date on the dial of the watch. Roughly a year later, the (AUC) made its first appearance to the watch world at the 2018 Geneva Watches & Wonders fair. Two years later, Piaget made it available for everyday wear. In April 2020, the very first customer-owned Altiplano Ultimate Concept timepiece left the Piaget workshops. In November of that year, Piaget finally received the recognition the brand deserved for creating such an impressive timepiece, by winning the prestigious Aiguille d’Or prize from the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

So what makes this watch a technological feat in watchmaking? It all comes down to how all the elements of the watch are put together, to create the world’s thinnest timepiece. Most modern timepieces are made up of four layers; 1) the bezel and crystal, 2) dial and hands, 3) movement, 4) case back. Piaget rewrote the playbook on this modern watch construction, by removing these four layers and instead combining the components with the bridges, dial and hands-on one side, and with the case back, movement, main plate, and bezel on the other. Altogether this timepiece has five patents that have enabled Piaget to create a timepiece that stands 2mm in total height, from the underside of the case back to the top of the crystal on the dial side. You can begin to understand why Piaget was so excited by the launch of this timepiece and why it’s heavily celebrated. 

Design:

The latest update to the Altiplano Ultimate Concept timepiece has several stylistic details that recall the brand’s impressive journey in creating this timepiece. The 44mm case has a monobloc bezel integrated into the frame within the 0.2mm crystal. As per the previous models, the rectangular-shaped crown has been recessed into the case and, so that no protrusions exist on the watch case. On the dial, we see the Piaget logo on the historic font which is the same typeface used in the logo above the Piaget Manufacture in La Côte-aux-Fées. 

On the time dial, two enlarged circles sit on the minute ring, so that when the time hits 7:47, the hands are sitting right on the rings. The main update which differs from previous models of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept is that the background of the dial features stars that have been coated in SuperLumiNova, which makes them illuminate beautifully at night or low light conditions. These stars replicate the sky above La Côte-aux-Fées at the exact date and time of the AUC’s birth.

Keeping with the ultra-thin design of the watch, Piaget has given the watch an extremely thin dark blue alligator strap, measuring at 1.5mm! 

Movement:

The movement used is the Piaget 900P-UC, which as we know has been merged with the watch exterior. The Piaget 900P-UC movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 VpH (4Hz) and gives out a power reserve of approximately 45 hours. The total number of jewels used in the movement is thirteen. The movement powers the hours and minutes offset at the mini dial shown at 12 o’clock. The large ratchet wheel shown at 6 o’clock has the engravings La Côte-aux-Fées and also the location of the Manufacture with its coordinates. 

Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept is a spectacular feat in watchmaking, bringing together horological elements to create the world’s thinnest timepiece. This latest upgrade presented at Watches and Wonders 2022 sees the Altiplano Ultimate Concept don a starry night sky in a breathtaking navy blue background which makes all the elements of this timepiece stand out beautifully. A timepiece that is sure to leave you speechless in more ways than one.  

Reference: G0A47505

Specification:

• Case: 41 mm with a thickness of just 2mm!
• Case Material: Dark slate Blue PVD treated and satin-brushed bezel and caseback
• Dial: Blue dial with Superluminova constellation on the main plate
• Crystal: Sapphire Crystal, anti-reflective coating inside
• Water resistance: 20 meters
• Movement: Piaget 900P-UC
• Power reserve: 45 Hours
• Strap: Blue alligator strap and blue baltimora textile strap

Australian Recommended Retail Price: From $605,000.00 AUD

Availability: Available to order from April 2022

When the model was first released in the 1970s, the people at the time were moving away from the outdated design codes and looking for sportier yet elegant models. The Piaget Polo fit this perfectly and it didn’t take long before the celebrities like Andy Warhol, Roger Moore, and celebrity couple Bjorn Borg and his wife Mariana were spotted donning these models. 

The Piaget Polo, while being elegant is also a fun summer-inspired watch. Its made to be worn for occasions that bring happiness into one’s life, social gatherings, formal events and even just hanging out with friends. The mix of luxury yet sportiness gives it a lot of versatility in where it can be worn. 

Design:

This latest Piaget Polo Date 36mm takes design cues from the historic collection and gives it a more modern touch. All the character traits that the Piaget Polo is known for, such as style, casual elegance, smooth curves, and simplistic view are all retained. What this model is well known for is the shape in shape design; the round bezel with a cushioned shaped dial. 

Piaget is offering this latest Polo Date 36mm in 6 different variants. Firstly we get two refined models in stainless steel that come with matching steel bracelets and a combination of satin-finish and polished details. With these two models, one features a Piaget Blue dial (reference G0A46018) which is deep and beautiful. This blue dial model has diamond-set gold indexes which give it a gorgeous sparkle amongst the blue. The second model is a pure white dial with a diamond-set bezel (reference G0A46019), that also has diamond-set gold hour indexes. 

The lineup also features two rose gold models, with diamond-set bezel and diamond-set hour indexes on both. The difference between the two models is that one features a slate grey alligator strap (reference G0A46023) while the other has a full gold rose gold bracelet (reference G0A46020). 

The last two models being released are purely for lovers of gemstones. These two models are covered in gems, from the dial to the case. One model features a dark blue alligator strap (reference G0A46024) to give it a bit of colour. However, if you want the full package, the second model has a bracelet that is fully paved with gems as well (reference G0A46022). 

Movement:

The movement used inside is the Piaget Calibre 501P. This slim-self winding movement has a frequency of 21, 600 VpH and gives a power reserve of approximately 43 hours. All the models in this Polo lineup feature an open case back which allows the viewer to see the grey colour oscillating weight that is engraved with the Maisons logo.

The Piaget Polo has always been about mixing luxury with fashionable style, and this latest lineup of Polo models lives up to this philosophy.

Australian Retail Pricing:

• Reference G0A46018 – $20,100.00
• Reference G0A46019 – $31,000.00
• Reference G0A46023 – $56,500.00
• Reference G0A46020 – $77,500.00
• Reference G0A46024 – $96,500.00
• Reference G0A46022 – $233,000.00

Availability: Available now

The quest to make mechanical timepieces thinner has been ever present within the industry. Many of the world’s greatest watchmaking powers have spent decades perfecting the precision engineering required to make an ultra-thin timepiece. The likes of Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and more recently Bulgari have at one time lead in the pursuit of thin. One name however has been the consistent king of the art, Piaget.

In 1957 Piaget introduced their Calibre 9P, a 2mm thick mechanical movement that lead the way in the battle to deliver the worlds thinnest watch. Piaget have spent the next 4 plus decades delivering more than two dozen ultra-thin movements, culminating in the 2020 release of the Calibre 900P-UC ultra-thin mechanical movement.

The culmination of 4 years of research and development, Piaget set about its vision to redefine the codes of watchmaking by amalgamating case and movement to deliver something truly marvellous. The Altiplano ultimate concept measures in just 2mm, case and all, shattering the boundaries of horological micro-engineering.

The uniquely skeletonised design shows the intricacies involved in this ground-breaking timepiece. 41mm diameter and available in three variations all in a cobalt alloy the Altiplano ultimate concept weighs in at a miniscule 14.2g.

Black with silver coloured case.

White with blue dial face

Black on Black 

With Piaget showcasing its prowess for precision, here at Watchadvice we are excited for the retorts in the years ahead.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Specification:

Dimensions: 41mm diameter and a thickness of 2mm
Case: Cobalt-based high-tech alloy
Finishing: Black PVD-treated and satin-brushed baseplate and caseback, polished case
Crystal: sapphire crystal
Movement: Piaget 900P-UC
Functions: Hours, minutes offset at 12 o’clock
Frequency: 28,800 vph/ 4 Hz
Power Reserve: Approximately 40 hours