Raymond Weil – Watch Advice https://www.watchadvice.com.au Luxury watch reviews, news & advice Sat, 19 Aug 2023 03:56:13 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.8.1 Raymond Weil Makes A Splash With Their New Freelancer Diver https://www.watchadvice.com.au/18270/raymond-weil-makes-a-splash-with-their-new-freelancer-diver/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/18270/raymond-weil-makes-a-splash-with-their-new-freelancer-diver/#respond Sat, 19 Aug 2023 03:56:11 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=18270 RAYMOND WEIL continue to add to their Freelancer line in 2023 with the arrival of the new Freelancer Diver with 4 new model variations, complete with a collaboration with Titouan Galea: Three time Wing Foil champion.

2023 is so far the year of the Freelancer for RAYMOND WEIL . Back in July they introduced the limited edition Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph, which we reviewed here. Then in the same month, they unveiled the Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax limited edition in Titanium, a collaboration of music and time. If you missed it, read our coverage of the release here. And this week, the brand has taken their Freelancer line to new depths (Yep, I went there with the pun!) with the Freelancer Diver.

The new RAYMOND WEIL Freelancer Diver Collection

The new Freelancer diver comes in 4 model variants – a black dial in both steel and rubber, a two-tone blue in steel and yellow gold PVD, a two-tone black in steel and rose gold PVD, off the back of a successfully sold out limited Geneva edition of 310 pieces in a blue dial and black bezel.

The collection are all 42.5mm is size, 11.7mm thick and have a screw down case back and crown to ensure water resistance at 300m. Like the Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax, this is also an inspired collaboration collection, this time with the sport of Wing Foil. If you’re not familiar with the sport, you’ll get a pretty good idea in the video below!

To celebrate this new launch, RAYMOND WEIL has partnered with Titouan Galea, three-time Wing Foil world champion. Through this collaboration, the brand explored the champion’s world, his remarkable skills and the mindset that propelled him to success. Drawing inspiration from Titouan Galea and from the high-tech foils and wings used by champions in Wing Foil riding, the new freelancer diver collection encapsulates the values of this exhilarating sport.

Three Time Wing Foil World Champion and RAYMOND WEIL Ambassador, Titouan Galea

To bring this to life, RAYMOND WEIL has given the collection gradient dials, which start darker at 6 o’clock and gradually get lighter up and around the dial, and to enhance underwater legibility, Super-LumiNova® accents can be found on the hands and indexes of the dial, and on the two-tone models, the secondary colour comes through in their hands and hour markers.

The gradient dial of the two-tone blue and yellow gold PVD

Like most divers, the dial is clean and RAYMOND WEIL have added a rounded water droplet shaped date window at 6 o’clock, kept the text to a minimum on the dial and given each model a unidirectional dive bezel with the familiar 15 minute counter and etched 5 minute markers and numerals.

The water drop shaped date window and divers bezel on the new Freelancer Diver

The full steel version of the freelancer diver is available with a 5-row stainless steel bracelet or a pierced rubber strap, while the two-tone models exclusively offer a 5-row stainless steel bracelet, with two of the inner links in either yellow or rose gold PVD for those wanting a more dressier look to the watch.

Additionally, each feature a screw-down engraved case-back, each with a water landscape illustration paying tribute to freedom felt at sea. RAYMOND WEIL say this represents their core value of independence and the soaring bird represents freedom and exploration, capturing the essence of Wing Foil riding and the creative DNA of RAYMOND WEIL.

Caseback and bracelet of the two-tone Freelancer Diver

Inside each is the RW4200. An automatic winding calibre with a 38 hour power reserve pivoting on 21 jewels. It’s a solid movement based on the Sellita SW200 and been used for a long time by the brand, so it’s tried and tested.

Final Thoughts

The RAYMOND WEIL Freelancer Diver collection is yet another value proposition from the brand for anyone who’s wanting a contemporary looking piece for under AUD $5,000. Unlike other brands who launch collections with too many variants to count, RAYMOND WEIL has stayed true to the classics here with the black dial/bezel on steel or rubber and the two-tone versions in yellow and rose gold PVD.

Personally, I would have loved to see the blue dial and bezel two-tone in the rose gold as well, however, it does look smart in the yellow and the black paired with rose gold is always a winner when it comes to two-tone watches. We will reserve our final judgement and verdict until we have a chance to give them some wrist time, which will hopefully be in the not too distant future.

References: 

  • 2775-ST1-20051 Black dial on Steel
  • 2775-SR1-20051Black dial on Rubber
  • 2775-SP3-50051Blue dial two-tone Yellow Gold PVD
  • 2775-S51-20051 Black dial two-tone Rose Gold PVD

Specification:

  • Case: 42.5mm, 11.7mm thick
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel / steel with two-tone Yellow Gold (Blue Dial) or Rose Gold (Black dial) PVD
  • Dial: Black or blue gradient dials enhanced with white Super-Luminova® on hands and indexes. Black or blue ceramic bezel inserts
  • Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating inside
  • Case Back: Screwed-down, stainless steel engraved case back
  • Water resistance: 300 meters / 30 ATM
  • Movement: RW4200 Automatic winding
  • Power reserve: 38 Hours
  • Bracelet: Stainless Steel / steel with two-tone Yellow Gold or Rose Gold PVD

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing:

  • AUD $4,400 (Black on Rubber)
  • AUD $4,500 (Black on Steel)
  • AUD $4,700 (Two-tone variants)

Availability: Available now from all Authorised Dealers and online at Raymond-weil.com

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Watch Advice Top 5: Best Chronographs For Under $20k https://www.watchadvice.com.au/17637/watch-advice-top-5-best-chronographs-for-under-20k/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/17637/watch-advice-top-5-best-chronographs-for-under-20k/#respond Mon, 24 Jul 2023 03:52:58 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=17637 We’ve scoured the watch world to come up with five of the best Chronographs you can buy for under $20,000, and some of these may surprise you!

It’s one of the most common questions we hear in person, on forums, and in general conversation amongst watch collectors. “I’m Looking to spend up to a certain dollar amount on a watch – needs to be X, Y, Z, what should I get?” So for today, we’re focusing on what you should get if you were to spend up to $20,000 on a Chronograph – one of the more useful and common complications on a watch today.

And for $20,000, there are a lot of choices to sort through, from dress chronographs, to pilots chronographs, to diver chronographs. The list goes on. And we can say that if you’re just starting your search it can be daunting, but don’t worry, we’ve got five great choices here that will suit a range of budgets, and are some of the best chronographs you can buy (at retail) for under AUD $20,000.

Longines Avigation Bigeye Chronograph

Longines has a long history with Aviation navigation (Avigation), with their watches donning the wrists some of history’s most notable Aviators. A Chronograph was (and still is) key for aviators, and the Longines Bigeye Chronograph represents this history and functionality in a modern vintage inspired piece.
This watch is all about functionality. Large lumed numerals on the dial, the large minutes counter at 3 o’clock for ease of reading at a glance and 41mm in size, not too big or small allowing all the information to fit on the dial. It’s a good looking modern watch with that vintage style and the L688 Chronograph movement is a decent movement and good bang for buck.
Australian RRP: $4,700 on leather. Available at Longines.com

Raymond Weil Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph

We recently did a hands on review on this specific watch and were impressed with its looks, the design elements and functionality. Check it out here. We’ve picked this as the Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph is good value for money and is also limited to just 400 pieces, 10 in Australia.
The flyback functionality is great, the multifaceted dial looks amazing and at 42mm, is sized well and sits flush on the wrist. Plus, it’s not something that everyone will have, and the design is unique, so it’s not something you see often.
Australian RRP: $6,995. Available at Raymond-Weil.com

Bremont Supermarine Chronograph

Watch Advice had the pleasure of touring the new Bremont Boutique in Melbourne last week, and this model caught our eye. The Supermarine is a robust divers watch designed for purpose, and this piece has the added functionality of the GMT, making it a highly versatile sports watch.
At 43mm and 16mm thick, it’s a larger wearing watch, but this isn’t meant to be a dress watch. The rubber strap is comfortable a suited to whatever you throw at it, and the watch is pure fun on your wrist – perfect for that next travel adventure overseas.
Australian RRP: $9,300 on rubber. Available at Bremont.com

Omega Speedmaster 57

No Chronograph collection is complete without an Omega Speedmaster. But we’ve gone something a little different to the standard Moonwatch. The Omega Speedmaster ’57 pays tribute to the 1957 Speedmaster (predating the Moonwatch) and is a perfect 40.5mm in size. With an in-house co-axial hand-wound movement that has 60hrs power reserve, it’s also on the slimmer side too, making at a great sports watch that can be dressed up and down.
The Speedmaster is synonymous with timing, and the ’57 is a nod to this. Plus it has the added functionality of the date window at 6 o’clock, which the Moonwatch doesn’t have, adding a touch more functionality to the piece.
Australian RRP: $15,250 on steel. Available at Omegawatches.com

Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42

Breitling are making some seriously good watches these days under the leadership of Georges Kern and the Premier B25 Datora is one of the best looking dress chronographs in our opinion. The B25 refers to their in-house concept movement & its look is reminiscent of a Patek, with that beautiful Salmon dial working brilliantly with the tan alligator strap.
“Datora” was a term used by Breitling in the 1940s and refers to a complete calendar chronograph displaying day, date, month and the different moon phases, making this highly useful. At 42mm and 15mm thick, its on the larger side, but wears very well and will turn heads with both watch and non-watch people!
Australian RRP: $19,790. Available at Breitling.com

So there you have five great chronographs to choose from under $20,000 and at a range of budgets too. Now the world of chronographs is massive, and whilst we’ve five here, there are so many more we could have included. So if you have any suggestions or don’t agree with any of these choices, leave us a comment below!

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Raymond Weil Introduces The New Limited Edition Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax In Titanium https://www.watchadvice.com.au/17468/raymond-weil-introduces-the-new-limited-edition-freelancer-pop-bi-compax-in-titanium/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/17468/raymond-weil-introduces-the-new-limited-edition-freelancer-pop-bi-compax-in-titanium/#respond Sat, 15 Jul 2023 09:28:42 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=17468 Music is timeless, so why not celebrate it with a timepiece, and this is what Raymond Weil has done with their new 400 piece limited edition Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax in Titanium in conjunction with Saxophinist, Sandy Sax and emerging pianist Victor Le Douarec

Watch collecting as a hobby is about sharing a common interest amongst collectors and enthusiasts. The same goes with music and as the saying goes, it’s better together. Raymond Weil are celebrating this by combining a love of music and horology into their new 400 piece limited edition Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax which has just been released.

The all new Raymond Weil Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax Chronograph

The 43.5mm piece is made from Titanium, making this watch super light and to make the watch ‘pop’ have included hints of turquoise adorning the dial, bezel and oscillating weight. Based on the press images, this contrasts well with the dark dial in a combination that would make George Bamford proud!

“This limited edition is an ode to live music. It celebrates the joy of sharing a musical moment together. With hints of vibrant colour on the dial, the design offers an added creative energy within our collection of freelancer chronographs. The full titanium case and bracelet provide lightweight comfortability both on stage and in the audience. I hope this timepiece will inspire you to live your life with passion, creativity and joy.”

Elie Bernheim, CEO of RAYMOND WEIL

As part of the release, RAYMOND WEIL has joined forces with saxophonist Sandy Sax and emerging pianist Victor Le Douarec to create a special song in collaboration, that celebrates the harmonious relationship between horology and music. Through engaging visuals and a joyful performance, the project ignites a shared passion for the beauty of music and the elegance of timekeeping.

Saxophonist Sandy Sax and pianist Victor Le Douarec – proud to collaborate with Raymond Weil

The dial is a multi-faceted dial, something that Raymond Weil is doing more and more nowadays setting them apart from others in their price point. The circular outer track has grooves reminiscent of a record, and around this, an angled rehaut with a pulsometer, which is again encases with a fixed bezel and a Tachymeter scale – a must have for most chronographs with any racing inspired style.

The multi-faceted dial with bi-icompax dials and Pulsometer and Tachymeter scales

Two turquoise sub-dials at 3 and 9 track the small seconds and chronograph hours respectively and similar to the Freelancer Chronograph launched last year, and their new Pilot’s Flyback Chronograph, they are inset to give the dial more dimensions. A colour matched date window at 6 o’clock helps with the symmetry of the bi-compax dial, and the turquoise seconds hand also adds to the aesthetic of the whole piece.

The texture on the inner dial with the record styled outer track offset by the turquoise dials and seconds hand

Inside the new Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax is the RW5030 automatic movement, the same in the standard Freelancer Chronograph, but adapted to have the date and 2 counters rather than the tri-compax layout of the original. This gives the new Freelancer Pop a 56-hour power reserve via the oscillating rotor and to ensure its water resistance, a screwed-down crown, complete with RW monogram as standard.

The RW5030 calibre through the caseback

Final Thoughts

Since Raymond Weil launched the new look Freelancer Chronograph this time last year, the brand has been moving forward with a revitalised range for their marquee collection. Whilst on the larger side at 43.5mm, they are good looking pieces which wear relatively well.

Speaking from experience having had both the Freelancer 7783 and now the new Pilot Flyback Chronograph for extended periods of time for review, these are decent options in the sub AUD $7,000 price point. This piece in particular, seems once again to be value for money: A good looking chronograph in Titanium no less and limited to 400 pieces in a funky colourway. And if you’re in Australia, there will only be 15 pieces delivered, so it makes it a much rarer piece and something different to flaunt on your wrist.

References: 7780-TI-20425

Specification:

  • Case: 43.5 mm, Lug-Lug 52mm and 13.7mm thick
  • Case Material: Titanium with a black ceramic tachymeter bezel
  • Dial: Black with gradient-effect from the centre, two turquoise counters, grey applique indexes enhanced with white Super-Luminova®
  • Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating inside
  • Case Back: Screwed-down, stainless steel with sapphire crystal
  • Water resistance: 100 meters
  • Movement: RW5030 Automatic Bi-Compax Chronograph
  • Power reserve: 56 Hours
  • Bracelet: Titanium with a Titanium and stainless steel folding clasp with double push-security system

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $6,995

Availability: Available now from all Authorised Dealers and online at Raymond-weil.com

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Hands On With The New Raymond Weil Pilot Flyback Chronograph – A Modern Classic! https://www.watchadvice.com.au/16695/hands-on-with-the-new-raymond-weil-pilot-flyback-chronograph-a-modern-classic/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/16695/hands-on-with-the-new-raymond-weil-pilot-flyback-chronograph-a-modern-classic/#respond Wed, 12 Jul 2023 02:20:43 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=16695 Raymond Weil recently released their new limited edition Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph, and as the official launch partner, we’ve had the pleasure of testing it out over the past couple of weeks. Here’s the results…

What We Love

  • Vintage Styling
  • The multi-faceted dial
  • Flyback functionality

What We Don’t

  • Stiff strap and clasp design
  • No date window
  • Overhanging lug design

Overall Rating: 8/10

  • Value for money: 8/10
  • Wearability: 7/10
  • Design: 9/10
  • Build quality: 8/10

Initial Thoughts

Sitting in a café in Sydney a few weeks ago, my colleague and I laid eyes on the the Raymond Weil Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph for the first time. We knew they were releasing a new pilots watch to add to the Freelancer Chronograph line, and having only seen the press pics, in person it looked the goods, especially the dial.

Playing around with it for a little while, it seemed solid and well done, and being a limited edition of just 400, with a price point of AUD $6,995 for a good-looking flyback chronograph that was well built, seemed fair to us based on the competition and price points out there now. And if you missed our article on the release of this watch, before you dive into this review, check out all the details with more live pics here.

The Design

The design of the new Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph is quite multifaceted, to say the least. Raymond Weil has used different design cues and inspiration to craft the watch to look and feel vintage, but it is anything but. The dial is the star of this piece, and it’s wonderful to look at and changes in different lighting, but it has so many elements to keep you coming back to it.

The outside track with the lumed applied numerals is designed to mimic the tarmac of a runway. The texturing on it is super cool and helps to give the dial the three-dimensional effect that’s created between it, the inner dial and the circular-grained sub-dials. The pop of yellow used for the chronograph seconds hand and the 30-minute register at 3 o’clock are a nice touch and contrast well with the green dial, as does the “FLYBACK” writing on the dial.

The textured outer track on the dial with sunken sub-dial registers

The case is well constructed, and Raymond Weil has given it more of an aged/vintage look by coating the stainless steel with a grey PVD coating. This is a good move I feel as it gives you the sense the watch is more a tool watch than for show, or at least it could be and when looking at the overall look and feel, it makes sense. This treatment continues on the bezel, chronograph pushers and onion-style crown, completing the aesthetic.

The PVD-coated case of the Flyback Chronograph and the RW logo on the crown

The strap is fairly sturdy, and like most watches, is stiff when you first put it on. Whilst many leather straps of new watches are like this, I always feel that if you can make it with softer leather as some brands do, then this should be more of a common practice. The one small critique I have is the design of the folding clasp. The buckle is on the longer side and is designed to curve around the side of the wrist, but this means that it doesn’t sit all that flush. This, coupled with the underside where you thread the strap through does dig into the wrist a little making it slightly uncomfortable to wear for more extended periods, at least whilst the leather is being broken in.

Raymond Weil has used a similar case design to the new Freelancer Chronograph that came out last year, which we reviewed here, albeit 1.5mm smaller here on the Pilot. The lug design is the same, and one thing I commented on with this in the Freelancer Chronograph is the way the lugs protrude out and past the strap. I’m not a fan of this, but this is more a personal preference, to be honest. If this doesn’t worry you, then this isn’t an issue at all!

The Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chrono is well-lumed too. Each of the applied numerals are filled with generous amounts of Super-Luminova® as are the hour and minute hands.

The well-lumed numerals and hands on the Pilot Flyback Chronograph.

How It Wears

Other than the aforementioned clasp issue, the watch wears well overall. The 42mm case sits nicely on the wrist, and whilst 42mm is a larger size, this is a pilot’s watch, don’t forget, so it’s designed to be easy to read at a glance, which it is. The lug-to-lug distance is approximately 47mm so it wears fine across my 17.5cm wrist, and being less than 14mm thick with a flat case-back, sits fairly flush.

Above: Across the wrist, the Raymond Weil Freelancer Pilot fits nicely in the centre of my 17.5cm wrist. Below: Down the arm and looking at the case height. It easily fits under my jacket if I need it to

Doing the photo shoot for this, we spent the day in the city as we looked for good spots and lighting for the other pieces we needed to shoot, and the Freelancer held up fine. Pairing this with my jeans/jacket combo, it looked the part. For me, how the watch looks and wears is essential, just as it is for many people. And at the end of the day, I’m not flying vintage planes, unfortunately, so it needs to work with my lifestyle, both leisure and work.

The Freelancer Pilot paired with this outfit looks the part, I need to get my plane now!

The Movement

The engine that powers the new Freelancer Pilot is the RW5530, a flyback chronograph movement with a 56h power reserve. The flyback chronograph works well; the pushers are fairly seamless with their action – not too easy to start avoiding accidental timing, but not so hard either; just enough resistance to both. Whilst you may not use this in everyday life, it’s still good to know that you’ve got the option to use it should the occasion arise. For me, it’s one of those functions that is fun to play with or entertain my young daughters, which they love seeing the seconds hand go around and then flick back to start again!

The RW5530 can be seen through the case back, which has a 3-bladed propeller motif and “One of 400 Limited Edition” inscribed on the back, signifying you have a rare piece on your wrist and adding a little more modernity to the vintage styling. You can see the column wheel and coupling through it, which are thermally blued, adding to the look and also serving to enhance corrosion resistance.

The RW5530 calibre through the case-back and propeller motif.

Whilst the movement isn’t COSC certified, the time ran accurately over the course of the week or so I had it with no major noticeable time variations. However, having this for a lot longer and taking it off and putting it on over and over may change this as it does with all automatic watches.

Final Thoughts

Coming back to my initial thoughts, I feel these still stand with the Limited Edition Raymond Weil Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph. With so many brands these days increasing their price points, finding a good-looking, well-built chronograph for under AUD $7,000 is a hard task.

Whilst the movement isn’t in-house, at this price, I don’t feel this matters at all. When you consider the alternatives out there, most watches with this styling, build and in-house movement are mostly now sitting around the $10,000+ mark, with the exception of maybe a Breitling Super Avenger 43 on the rubber for AUD $7,590. But even this piece isn’t in-house as it has the B13/TECH-209 calibre based on an ETA 7750, not to mention it doesn’t have the vintage styling or the Flyback complication this piece does.

The closest direct comparison I can think of in today’s market with the same kind of styling may be the IWC Pilot Chronograph 41 or 43 at $11,400 and $11,900, respectively, but you’re not getting a Flyback chronograph complication. If you’re after this function, then TAG Heuer’s Autavia has this at AUD $9,800; alternatively for a pure pilot watch, Zenith’s Pilot Dig Date Flyback is AUD $17,300.

So, if you’re after a vintage-styled pilot’s watch with a design that you don’t see on everyone’s wrist, and with a flyback chronograph function, no less, then maybe consider the new Raymond Weil Freelancer Pilot. With only 400 pieces worldwide and at an affordable price point, you’ll be safe in knowing you’re in rare air!

Reference: 7783-TIC-05520 Limited to 400 pieces

Specification

  • Case: 42mm, 13.8mm thick
  • Case Material: Stainless steel with grey PVD coating
  • Case Back: Screwed-down, with propeller engraving on the sapphire glass back
  • Dial: Green with textured outer ring, Arabic numerals and pilot arrows with Super-Luminova®
  • Crystal: Flat Sapphire crystal with antiglare treatment on both sides
  • Movement: Mechanical flyback chronograph with automatic winding – RW5530 Calibre
  • Power Reserve: 56 hours
  • Water Resistance: 100m / 10BAR
  • Strap: Brown genuine calf leather with rivets, Grey PVD RW folding clasp with double push-security system

Availability: Available now through Authorised Dealers or online at Raymond-weil.com

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $6,995

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Raymond Weil Releases New Limited Edition Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph (Live Pics) https://www.watchadvice.com.au/17005/raymond-weil-releases-new-limited-edition-freelancer-pilot-flyback-chronograph-live-pics/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/17005/raymond-weil-releases-new-limited-edition-freelancer-pilot-flyback-chronograph-live-pics/#respond Mon, 03 Jul 2023 02:36:58 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=17005 Raymond Weil has taken to the skies with their new limited edition Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph, creating a modern take on the classic pilots watch.

Raymond Weil, the man, was an avid flyer, and it’s no surprise that this passion of the Brand’s founder lives on in his grandchildren, Elie Bernheim, CEO of RAYMOND WEIL and Pierre Bernheim, Chairman of Geneva’s Airport board. It also no surprise that this passion has inspired both the the family and the Brand to develop a new Pilots’ watch – The Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph in a limited edition of 400 pieces.

The new limited edition Raymond Weil Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph

With only 10 pieces coming to Australia, Watch Advice has has the privilege of seeing this piece up close and personal, and will be doing a full in depth hands on review later this month once we’ve had a chance to really put it through its paces. But on first inspection, Raymond Weil has done a good job with this watch.

One good looking Pilots watch

At 42mm and 13.8mm thick, it’s not a small watch, but pilots watches never are to due them being designed for functional purposes. In this instance, the steel surfaces of the case are coated in grey PVD, providing an elegant and adventurous aesthetic. This vintage aviation theme extends to the onion-shaped crown, a design standard on pilot watches, and the brown leather strap with rivets, reminiscent of those found on aeroplanes.

The vintage appeal runs strong in the Raymond Weil Flyback Chronograph!

The dial has highly legible applied numerals on the dial, filled with Super-Luminova® and two easy to read sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock. Adding to it’s vintage aesthetic, the olive green dial is layered and textured, with the outer hour ring designed to be reminiscent of the tarmac of the runway. To assist with readability, Raymond Weil have given the watch a bright yellow seconds hand and minute hand on the sub-dial, making sure you can see the chronograph running and easily read the timing against the green.

The layered and textured dial of the Flyback Chronograph

The engine that powers the new Freelancer Pilot is the RW5530, a flyback chronograph movement that allows a simultaneous reset and restart of the chronograph using the reset pusher at 4 o’clock and has a 56h power reserve. This fully integrated movement features a column wheel and horizontal coupling. Its column wheel controls the start, stop and reset functions which, in this instance, are thermally-blued, thus enhancing corrosion resistance and heightening its looks.

Raymond Weil have given the Chronograph a see through caseback, complete with a 3-bladed propeller motif and “One of 400 Limited Edition” inscribed on the back signifying you have a rare piece on your wrist, and adding a little more modernity to the vintage styled piece.

The case-back of the Raymond Weil Freelancer Flyback Chronograph with blue column wheel

Final Thoughts

Raymond Weil have created their new piece in honour of Mr. Raymond Weil and his passion for aviation. This new limited edition will appeal to watch aficionados and aviation enthusiasts alike. Whilst not having had the chance to really play around with the watch yet, our first impressions are Raymond Weil have stepped their game up somewhat with this piece.

The multi-layered and textured dial looks great and gives the wearer something to admire whilst wearing it. The vintage style and grey PVD coated case adds to the ‘aged’ effect of the watch and the riveted leather strap seems sturdy and compliments the overall look. We had fun photographing the watch, and hopefully, just as much fun wearing it and reporting back on the experience in the coming weeks!

Reference: 7783-TIC-05520 Limited to 400 pieces

Specification

  • Case: 42mm, 13.8mm thick
  • Case Material: Stainless steel with grey PVD coating
  • Case Back: Screwed-down, with propeller engraving on sapphire glass back
  • Dial: Green with textured outer ring, arabic numerals and pilot arrows with Super-Luminova®
  • Crystal: Flat Sapphire crystal with antiglare treatment on both sides
  • Movement: Mechanical flyback chronograph with automatic winding – RW5530 Calibre
  • Power Reserve: 56 hours
  • Water Resistance: 100m / 10BAR
  • Strap: Brown genuine calf leather with rivets, Grey PVD RW folding clasp with double push-security system

Availability: Available now through Authorised Dealers or online at Raymond-weil.com

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $6,995

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2022 Father’s Day Gift Guide https://www.watchadvice.com.au/11730/2022-fathers-day-gift-guide/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/11730/2022-fathers-day-gift-guide/#respond Wed, 24 Aug 2022 13:31:40 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=11730 It’s that time of the year again. Father’s day 2022 is just around the corner. If you are stuck on what to get your dad or your husband (on behalf of your kids) this year, here are a few gift ideas they will love.

1. Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 – RRP AUD 1050.00:

Why do we love this watch? This watch offers a lot for its price of AUD 1050.00. The case size of 40mm fits most wrists and comes in three honeycomb motif dial colours, white, black and blue (pictured above). Power reserve of 80 hours, which means this watch can be left alone over the weekend and come Monday, it will be ready to be worn without needing to wind it. The finishing of this watch is on par with some of the more expensive watches that cost ten times more. The single-link steel bracelet is comfortable to wear and produces an eye-catching shine. Tissot brought back an iconic 1970s design that will turn heads and is suitable for stylish dads with a busy lifestyle. Tissot offers two years international warranty on all of its watches. For more information, head over to Tissot.

2. Tudor Black Bay Pro – RRP from AUD 5010.00:

Released earlier in the year at Watches and Wonders, Black Bay Pro is an entirely new watch from the brand and became an instant hit among watch enthusiasts. The polished and satin-finished steel case (39mm in size) and riveted bracelet are made for everyday use. We like this watch for three reasons. 1. Great power reserve – at 70 hours, perfect for everyday use. 2. Dual timezone feature, which showcases two time zones simultaneously. 3. Rapid adjustment on the clasp, meaning on hot days, watch bracelet adjustment can be made on the go! Tudor Black Bay Pro is offered in three strap choices, a steel bracelet AUD 5430.00 (left), a Hybrid strap AUD 5010.00 (centre) and a Fabric strap AUD 5010.00 (right). Tudor offers five years warranty on all of their watches. Compact, sport and robust, this watch is great for adventurous dads. To find out more, head over to Tudor.

3. Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph 7741- RRP from AUD 5,695.00

Raymond Weil’s Freelancer collection was upgraded earlier in the year with the addition of Chronograph 7741. The latest improvements include a bigger case size of 43.5mm, a clean dial layout and a ceramic bezel with a tachymeter scale. The Tri-compax Chronograph is offered in a selection of dial configurations, and our favourite is the green (pictured above). Powered by the calibre RW5030, which generates a power reserve of 56hours and is showcased through an exhibition case-back. The freelancer 7741 combines classic and modern design cues to create a handsome timepiece suitable for a dad who loves his classics! Raymond Weil offers three years of international warranty on the freelancer models. For more information, visit Raymond Weil.

4. Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar- RRP from AUD 48,600.00:

First announced during 2022 Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar is one of the most beautifully executed perpetual calendars in the current market. The 42mm case (offered in steel and red gold) has a graduated blue lacquered dial with four counters that showcase the date, moon phase, date, month and year. This particular perpetual calendar does not need any manual adjustments on the counters till the year 2100.

Another feature we like in this model is the quick changing straps. You can change from a steel bracelet to a rubber strap within seconds. Powered by in-house calibre 868, which generates a power reserve of over 70 hours. Sporty and complicated, this watch is a perfect addition to a seasoned watch collector dad. Jaeger-LeCoultre offers eight years of warranty on all their watches. For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

5. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver – RRP AUD 9650.00

One of the most exciting releases from the brand in 2022 is the Aquaracer 1000 Super diver. Geared towards the professional divers, this timepiece is made for the deep waters. Grade 5 titanium case measuring 45mm and with a thickness of 15.75mm, the robust case is designed to withstand the pressures at 1000 meters below sea level, equipped with a helium valve to prevent damage upon decompression. The simple and highly legible dial comes alive at night. TAG Heuer teamed up with the swiss movement manufacturer to exclusively create the movement TH30-00 for the Superdiver, which produces a power reserve of 70 hours. The Superdiver comes with five years of international warranty. The Superdiver boasts sporty elegance and will be suitable for an adventurous and daring dad, particularly water lovers. For more information, visit TAG Heuer.

6. Breitling Navitimer B01 70th Anniversary – RRP from AUD 12090.00

Earlier this year, Breitling celebrated the 70th anniversary of the legendary Navitimer. With that, Breitling brought out their latest versions of the Navitimers. Offered in 46mm, 43mm and 41mm case sizes and vibrant dial choices, there is sure to be a model that will cater for every dad! Noticeable changes for the new Navitimers include the new in-house B01 movement with a power reserve of 70 hours (showcased on the caseback), the new AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association) wings logo replacing the old Breitling logo and new vibrant shades dials, notably the blue (pictured above) green and Copper. The watch can be worn with either bracelet or leather strap. A five-year warranty is offered on the in-house movement Breitling watches. The new Navitimer would be a great gift for the stylish and classy dad. For more information, visit Breitling.

7. Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date- RRP from AUD 4,470.00

Montblanc entered the diver watch category earlier in the year with their first ever diver – The 1858 Iced sea Automatic Date. Starting price of AUD 4470.00 for the 41mm steel case on the rubber strap is a great value for the price point. Three things we like about the new dive watch. 1. Quick change strap change system with fine adjustment system 2. The dial was inspired by the glaciers of the Montblanc massif and produced in an ancestral technique called “gratté-boisé”. 3. Unidirectional bi-colour Ceramic bezel that matches the dial. 1858 Iced sea Automatic date is offered in three dial variations, black, green and blue (pictured). Stylish from every angle, Montblanc’s first-ever diver watch is a great addition to any dad’s watch collection or his first-ever swiss watch. Montblanc offers two years of international warranty on all their watches. For more information, head over to Montblanc.

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Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph 7741 Hands-on Review https://www.watchadvice.com.au/11512/raymond-weil-freelancer-chronograph-7741-hands-on-review/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/11512/raymond-weil-freelancer-chronograph-7741-hands-on-review/#respond Mon, 04 Jul 2022 01:58:13 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=11512

What we love:

  • Great colour combinations are available, our pick is the green dial 
  • A watch you can buy now, no waitlists 
  • Legibility and dial design and layout and good-looking movement through the caseback

What we don’t love:

  • The watch will wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches 
  • Some may find the push-button clasp dig into the underside of the wrist
  • Some may find the lugs to protrude on the leather and aid in wearing large

Overall rating: 7.75/10

Value for money: 7.5/10

Wearability: 7.5/ 10

Design: 8.0/10

Build quality: 8.0/10

RAYMOND WEIL is one of the few mainstream watch brands that are still independent and family-owned. So it is no surprise that they have re-invigorated their flagship Freelancer line and taken it up a notch for their 2022 release of the new Freelancer Chronograph 7741 line. I had the privilege of going hands-on with the new releases; the black and white  ‘Panda’ on both steel bracelet and black leather strap, the two-tone with Rose Gold on the brown strap, and a striking green dial and bezel with silver Tri-Compax dials on the green leather strap.

Young in Age, but Mature in Nature

RAYMOND WEIL is a young brand in terms of watchmaking. Compared to other brands that have their roots put down in the 1800s and in some cases, late 1700s, this makes RAYMOND WEIL, born in 1976, a horological child in age (so to speak!) RAYMOND WEIL is known for style and being heavily aligned to music, and looking at RAYMOND WEIL watches, you’d be forgiven if you mistook the brand for one that’s been in business for 100+ years or more. Still, family-owned and now with the 3rd generation of the family at the helm, being nimble and innovative is key to taking on the bigger brands that compete in the same price range. And this is what they have done with the new Freelancer Chronograph – taken a classically designed Chronograph and given it a makeover for 2022.

Recommended reading: Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton Review

How it wears:

At 43.5mm, 13.7mm high and 52mm lug to lug, this is a larger watch, and a bold move by RAYMOND WEIL given the trend back to the more wearable smaller and slimmer watches these days. The case is comfortable on the wrist given the flat see-through crystal case back, and when the strap and bracelet are adjusted to fit snug on the wrist, very little movement occurs. The lugs do protrude somewhat, due to only a slight taper. On my 17-18cm wrist (my wrist does shrink a little in winter), these don’t sit flush, meaning the lugs have some overhang past the leather. This does give the impression of wearing larger than the dimensions on paper, and to give you a comparison, wears noticeably bigger than my Sea-Dweller at 43mm and even larger than my 44mm Breitling SuperOcean Chrono, which when on a leather strap, sits nice a flush on the wrist due to the taper of the lugs. This is a watch that may not fit under shirt cuffs, but will a jacket, and to be honest, these are good-looking watches, so I very much doubt that you would want to have it hidden away.

And in the case that your wrist does fluctuate with the weather like mine does, you can adjust the folding double pusher clasp up and down the strap fairly easily when off the wrist. My only gripe here is with the clasp. It does feel somewhat lacking in sturdiness, with a bit of movement in the clasp head when shut, and the finishing is not as refined as others at a similar price point. The other thing I did note is that due to the way it’s designed, it did dig into the underside of my wrists and was a little uncomfortable. If there was a sizing on the strap in between where I had it set and the next size to make it looser, I’d say it wouldn’t have been much of an issue. This issue is however resolved with the steel bracelet, which sits fairly comfortable on the wrist and is easy to slip on and off.

The Design:

One word – Bold! Whilst the previous iteration of the Freelancer Chronograph was slightly smaller and a little more subtle and subdued, these are anything but. With three colour choices, there is a look to suit most tastes. The two-tone with its silver dial and Rose Gold PVD coated bezel, crown, Chrono pushers and hour indices looks great and is beautifully offset with a dark tan leather strap – a nod back to a more classic time. The black and white ‘Panda’ version does look somewhat familiar and similar to a more well-known chronograph. However, aside from the black and white Tri-compax dial design, this is about as far as the comparison goes. But, the best version is quite possibly the green version, with its beautiful sunburst dial, matching bezel with tachymeter scale and green strap, this is my pick of the 3. Green is definitely the colour of the year, and like quite a few others that have launched this year (Omega’s Seamaster, Rado Captain Cook and JLC’s Polaris Date to name a few) the RAYMOND WEIL green is a stunning shade that dances from a Khaki/olive green to a darker sea green depending on the light.

But this is only where the overhauled dial design starts. RAYMOND WEIL has stepped up its game on these watches. The dial has some subtle and not-so-subtle details, starting with the outer grooves, or as RAYMOND WEIL describes it, ‘snailed’ with applied indices that give it a great 3D textured effect.

The Tri-compax dial configuration is classic and with each sub-dial, having a silver outer dial on the green, and black outer dials on the black and white and two-toned gives the dial further contrast and texture. The brand logo is also applied on the inner circle of the main dial, and the indices in silver contrast with the green. The Two-Tone boasts the rose gold PVD indices and works against the silver dial, and the Panda has probably the least contrasting indices in silver, which in some light, can blend slightly with the white dial.

The one area where these dials do lack is the lume. Like many racing-styled chronographs, the hands are well lumed with Super-Luminova, however, the indices have only small lume pips on the very edges, meaning that unless the watch has been in full light just prior to being in low light, these don’t stand out in the dark easily. In saying this, the Freelancer is not a dive watch, nor would I classify this as a tool watch where you would need highly visible lume, so unless you’re timing hot laps at night, this shouldn’t be an issue!

New to the Freelancer is the ceramic bezel with Tachymeter scale around the dial, and like many racing-styled Chronos before it, is classic and familiar. One aspect I do like is the way RAYMOND WEIL has used silver on the Two-Toned dial, compared to just taking the white dial and adding the rose gold elements to the watch. This differentiates it from the white dial and gives it a little more of a classic look.

The case seems relatively well made, sturdy and with brushed or satinated finishing. They have given the lugs a bit of extra luxury with polished beveling on the top, sides and underside which adds to the wrist presence and look.

Recommended Reading: Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Review

Movement:

Flipping the case over, the see-through case-back reveals the RW 5030 Caliber. The movement is nicely finished, with a combination of Pearlage and Cotes de Geneve on the rotor, bridges and main plates. Whilst the RW5030 isn’t an in-house movement, but rather an in-house modified Sellita movement, it is still nice looking nonetheless with a lot on display to admire.

With 56 hours of power reserve, it’s not groundbreaking compared to the many brands that have 3 days, but with over 2 days, the chances of it running out if you’re wearing it at least every second day is low. One drawback of the Caliber RW5030 Chronograph is it doesn’t use a column wheel and vertical clutch like many modern chronograph functions, but rather a cam system, meaning that whilst a great workhorse movement, could be susceptible to greater wear and tear over time. However, if you’re like me and others I know, using the chronograph once every few months won’t really make any difference to the service intervals of this.

Final Thoughts:

RAYMOND WEIL has stepped up the game with the new Freelancer Chronograph 7741 line in terms of look, style (and size!). These are larger watches, that wear larger than the paper specs, and if you have a wrist that’s less than about 16cm, I feel you’ll struggle to wear this well and comfortably. However, if you like a bigger watch, or have a larger wrist, then these do have a great presence and in 3 colour combinations, plus the option of a steel bracelet on the Panda, there is a variant to suit most tastes.

Priced between $5,695 and $5,895 AUD, these are fairly priced when taking into account what else is in this price bracket, or compared to similar watches at a much higher price. RAYMOND WEIL may not be a brand with film stars or ambassadors, nor does it throw around big marketing budgets and may therefore be sometimes overlooked, but I would suggest that people give them a second look and try them on. 

The new Freelancer collection shows that they are heading into a new era for their watches, and the new Freelancer Chronograph is a great mix of modern watch-making mixed with a classic sense of style. If you are looking for something fresh to add to your collection or starting out with your first Swiss auto chronograph, you won’t be disappointed with the new RAYMOND WEIL 7741 chronograph.

References: 7741-SC1-30021 (B&W on Leather), 7741-SC7-52021 (Green), 7741-S51-65021 (Two-Tone Rose Gold) and 7741-ST1-30021 (B&W on Bracelet)

Specification:

  • Case: 43.5 mm, Lug-Lug 52mm and thickness 13.7mm
  • Case Material: Brushed and polished steel (Green and Panda)/ Steel and Rose Gold PVD
  • Dial: Satin brushed green/silver or white matte encircled by grooves. Applique indexes enhanced with white Super-Luminova
  • Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating inside
  • Water resistance: 100 meters
  • Movement: RW5030 Automatic Tri-Compax Chronograph
  • Power reserve: 56 Hours
  • Bracelet: Calfskin leather with stainless steel RW folding clasp with the double push-security system. Option of steel bracelet on B&W Panda variant

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $5,695 for B&W and Green variants on leather, $5,795 for B&W on the bracelet, $5,895 for steel and rose gold PVD

Availability: Available now. For more information visit RAYMOND WEIL

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2021 Raymond Weil Maestro “Let it be” Limited Edition https://www.watchadvice.com.au/9198/2021-raymond-weil-maestro-let-it-be-limited-edition/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/9198/2021-raymond-weil-maestro-let-it-be-limited-edition/#respond Tue, 22 Jun 2021 14:51:13 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=9198 Raymond Weil has just unveiled the latest edition of their Music Icons limited edition collection. The tribute for this timepiece is none other than The Beatles, with this latest watch being the epilogue of their exceptional partnership with one of the most iconic rock bands in the world. Raymond Weil has named this latest timepiece “Let it Be” after the Beatles hit song. 

Music and art drive the vision of this family-built watch manufacturer, while also shaping its distinctive nature. They also stimulate the brand’s creativity and are at the heart of nearly all of the brand’s international partnerships which include renowned artists and famous music brands. The Raymond Weil “Let it Be” maestro is therefore a fitting tribute to the watch manufacturer’s musical heritage and roots. 

Design:

The “Let it Be” maestro timepiece showcases Maison’s desire to go back to their musical roots, with the design of the watch being inspired by The Beatle’s last album in 1970. The Raymond Weil “Let it Be” maestro is housed in a 40mm round stainless steel polished case. The dial of this timepiece is stunning, with the middle portion of the dial being skeletonised. What’s interesting about this skeletonised part is that it is done as a UK-figurative cut-out. 

The dial of this timepiece does stand out quite nicely, with the covered background being a two-tone anthracite grey/beige colour that acts as a great contrast to the hours and hands. The hour indices are done in baton style, and along with the hour, minute, and seconds hands, they have all been gold plated. At the 4 o’clock hour marker, four baton hands are used as a reference to the four members of The Beatles. The design of the hands and hour markers give the dial a very refined and sharp look. 

The centre of the dial where the hands are positioned is where Liverpool is located in the Uk cut-out of the dial, which acts as a reminder of where the iconic story of the band first began. The dial also features a nice balance between the two partnerships, with the official Beatles logo at 9 o’clock matched by the Raymond Weil logo at the 3 o’clock position. 

Raymond Weil has chosen to give this “Let it Be” maestro timepiece a light brown “vegan leather” polyurethane strap with a steel RW folding clasp. Although a black strap would’ve done the watch justice by matching the dial and letting the workings of the dial stand out, the brown surprisingly works well too as it matches the hour markers and hands. 

Raymond Weil has given this timepiece a mechanical self-winding skeleton movement, which gives out a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. The case back of the watch features a smoked sapphire crystal that reveals the beautiful movement underneath. The official Beatles logo is on the crystal and the words Limited Edition engraved onto the case back. 

The “Let it Be” maestro model from Raymond Weil brings forth their passion for music and art onto a beautifully created timepiece. A tribute to one of the most iconic rock bands in the world, the “Let it Be” maestro is also a symbol of the watch brand’s unwavering horological virtuosity. Limited to 3000 pieces.

Reference: 2215-STC-BEAT4

Raymond Weil Maestro “Let it be” Specification:

  • Case: 40mm (9.2mm Thickness)
  • Case Material: Round – Polished stainless steel
  • Dial: Two-tone dial, anthracite grey/beige Opening on the skeleton movement, with the shape of the United-Kingdom Nickel-plated The Beatles logo at 9 o’clock and RAYMOND WEIL logo at 3 o’clock
  • Crystal: Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
  • Case-back: Snapped, with smoked sapphire crystal featuring official Beatles logo and Limited Edition engraving
  • Water resistance: 50 meters
  • Movement: Mechanical self-winding skeleton movement
  • Power reserve: 38 Hours
  • Strap options: Light brown “Vegan leather” polyurethane strap with steel RW folding clasp and double-push security system

Australian Retail Pricing: $2,995.00

Availability: Now, Limited to 3000 pieces world wide

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Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton Review https://www.watchadvice.com.au/8869/raymond-weil-freelancer-calibre-rw1212-skeleton-review/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/8869/raymond-weil-freelancer-calibre-rw1212-skeleton-review/#respond Sun, 25 Apr 2021 23:20:42 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=8869

Pros:

  • Unlike previous models, Full skeleton on display – best one to date 
  • Bang for buck Skeleton watch
  • Beautifully executed – Cleanly laid out dial and attention to detail on the bridges

Overall Rating: 8.1/10

  • Value for money – 8/10
  • Wearability – 8.5/10
  • Design – 8/10
  • Build Quality – 8/10 

Cons:

  • Some may miss the second hand
  • Some may not appreciate having no hour Indicators
  • Caseback is fully blacked out, the rotor isn’t as clearly visible

Raymond Weil’s latest skeleton watch comes in the form of the Freelancer 42mm Full Skeleton Calibre RW1212. Skeleton watches present a unique interpretation of watchmaking, where sometimes everything is removed down to the bare minimum to showcase nothing but just the movement and the time. 

There is something about a skeleton watch that just grabs attention. Whether it’s the human curiosity to want to know what goes on behind closed doors or whether it’s the fascination of seeing all the intricate pieces come together to create something complex yet beautiful, skeletonised timepieces can awaken the watch fanatic in all of us. 

This however does not mean that skeleton watches can always be so easy to read. Quite a common pitfall with skeletonised timepieces is that sometimes watchmakers get too caught up in the movement of the watch that they negate being able to read the time. This is mainly due to the fact that the hour indexes and hands can blend in with the movement, which can make it quite hard to read the dial at a glance. With Raymond Weil’s latest skeleton timepiece, although it has been reduced to the bare minimum to highlight the movement as much as possible, the brand, for the most part, hasn’t compromised on the readability of the dial. 

Design:

The Freelancer 42mm Full Skeleton Calibre RW1212 comes in a 42mm stainless steel with a black PVD coating case, with the crown also being stainless steel with black PVD coating. The fluted crown also comes with Raymond Weil’s signature RW monogram. The use of black PVD for the case is quite important as it acts to highlight the movement and provide a direct contrast to the inscriptions throughout the outer parts of the dial. 

The main plate on the dial has been done in black as well, which arguably is one of the reasons why the hour and minute hand can stand out so well and make it easier to read the time. The hands are also filled with sueprluminova to make it easily visible at night. The hands also have just the right finish to not stand out too much and take attention away from the movement underneath. It’s also clear enough to tell time at a quick glance. The place of origin for the brand “Geneve” and the Raymond Weil moniker has been positioned on the rehaut, which is much less intrusive on the dial. 

The balance wheel accentuated in a gold-like appearance is positioned at 6 o’clock. To further highlight the balance wheel and escapement, the twin-spoke bridge that’s holding it in place is done in black as well. At the 12 o’clock position, we can see the open-worked barrel as clear as day. Due to the open-worked nature of the barrel, we are able to see how much of it is “wound” or in tension, which will let the wearer know easily an estimate on how much power reserve is left on the watch. 

Movement:

The movement Raymond Weil has used for the Freelancer 42mm Full Skeleton Calibre RW1212, is the self-winding in-house RW1212 calibre. Raymond Weil worked closely with the Swiss movement specialist Sellita to create this movement, in which they were able to create a full open-worked movement. The RW1212 calibre movement beats to a frequency of 28, 800 VpH (4hz) and gives out a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. 

Even with a full open worked dial, the Freelancer 42mm Full Skeleton Calibre RW1212 comes with an open case back as well so that we are able to see the rotor and back of the movement. To keep in the theme of only showing the bare necessity, the rotor has been skeletonised as well and also coated in black in order to highlight the other moving parts of the movement underneath. 

How does it wear?

Straight off the bat, let’s get one thing clarified, this is not a tourbillon, although it can easily be mistaken for a tourbillon with the placement of the balance wheel at 6 o’clock. On a 6.5inch wrist, the 42mm case sits perfectly, thanks to lug to lug distance being just 48mm. Case thickness is approximately 10.6mm, which means this would be an ideal choice for office wear and better yet, a daily watch. 

On a 6.5inch (16.5cm) wrist

Weighing just 96 grams (including the rubber strap and buckle!), this watch can be worn for a long period and the black rubber strap is comfortable for daily wear. I enjoyed looking at the skeletonised dial, the finishing is on point especially the bridges and how well they are finished. I often found myself moving my wrist around to catch light from different angles to enjoy this dial. On the wrist, the watch feels and looks expensive, which I think is great, given its price point. The omission of the second hand and the hour markers works well in this case, as your eyes are drawn to the mainspring and the skeleton dial, but some may miss these small details.

I had the opportunity to show this watch to a few watch enthusiast friends of mine and almost all of them thought this was a tourbillon from far (and I don’t blame them). This dial is so well executed and as said before, the placement of “Raymond Weil Geneve” at 12 o’clock on the inner dial gives more room to showcase the skeletonised dial. Previously it was placed at the 3 o’clock position and took a fair bit of space in the dial.

On a 6.5inch (16.5cm) wrist

If I had to nitpick, I had one issue with the watch, it was the blacked-out sapphire glass that was used in the case back. I had to really focus on the case back to see what was going on and at times it’s hard to see the rotor which blends in with the rest of the movement. I feel that this is a missed opportunity for Raymond Weil, had they kept the case back glass clear, one could have enjoyed the case back as much as the dial. 

Priced at $4,795 AUD, I believe it’s great value for the watch you get, especially compared to the previous version. This watch feels premium and can easily come across as being more expensive. If you are in the market for a watch under 5k and are a fan of a skeletonised dial, it would be a crime not to consider the Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212. The way the watch is presented, it can easily be one’s first watch purchase or would be a great addition to an existing collection.

On a 6.5inch (16.5cm) wrist

Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Skeleton Specification:

Model Reference:2785-BKR-20000
Case Diameter: 42mm. 10.6mm thick and 48mm lug to lug
Dial: Black galvanic with a complete opening on the skeleton movement, black circular tachymeter scale
Case: Stainless steel with black PVD coating
Functions:  Hour and minutes
Movement: RW1212
Power Reserve: Min. 38 hours
Water Resistance: 10 ATM / 100 meters

Australian Retail Pricing: $4,795.00

Availability: Available now

Local Authorised dealers :

  • Brisbane – Wallace Bishop
  • Melbourne – Salera and Monards,
  • Sydney – Gregory Jewellers and Wamada Jewellery
  • Perth – Mazzucchelli’s
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Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Review https://www.watchadvice.com.au/5963/raymond-weil-freelancer-rw1212-green-hands-on-review/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/5963/raymond-weil-freelancer-rw1212-green-hands-on-review/#respond Thu, 30 Jul 2020 01:33:02 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=5963 Earlier in February this year, Raymond Weil unveiled the latest edition in their Freelancer collection. The Freelancer Calibre RW1212 is now available in a green version. Raymond Weil has previously released the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in different colour variants, which include; blue dial, black dial, rose-gold edition and a black dial with rose gold indices and hands. 

So what makes the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 model unique to Raymond Weil? It all comes down to the movement used to create this timepiece. Before the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 came along, Raymond Weil used all outsourced movements in their watches. That was until back in 2017, when Raymond Weil created an exclusive in-house movement in collaboration with Sellita. Sellita, as many may know, is the Swiss movement manufacturer that makes movements for brands around the world. 

The development team at Raymond Weil worked together with the designers at Sellita for a period of roughly 18-months, to come up with Raymond Weil’s first in-house movement. Although not entirely in-house, it is still quite a feat for one of the few remaining watch companies that are still family-owned since their establishment. 

To mark this momentous occasion for the brand, with the movement being a testament to over 40 years of beautiful Swiss watch-making traditions and expertise, Raymond Weil decided to name the calibre after the brand’s Swiss origins. The 1212 in the movement’s name refers back to the postal code of Raymond Weil’s global headquarters, Grand-Lancy. 

Reference : 2780 STC 52001

The Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Green (ref. 2780 STC 52001) comes in a polished and satin stainless steel 42mm case. It has a simple display only showing the hours and minutes, with no constant second hand or date window. The screw-down polished stainless steel crown is fluted and features the RW monogram. The hands and barrel-shaped hour indexes are made from steel-type, which works well as they match the polished casing. 

Crown : Screwed-down, with RW logo
Polished and satinated stainless steel

The main feature of this watch is of-course the green dial and the open-heart at 6 o’clock. The green used for the dial is a dark tone galvanic green. The dial has two different textures as well. Firstly we have the “outer ring” which encapsulates the hour indexes. This ring feels like it has a sunburst effect, showcasing different tones of the galvanic green on different lighting conditions. The “inner ring” is designed to have a ‘Clous de Paris’ feature, which certainly helps to add to the aesthetic value of the timepiece. 

Reference : 2780 STC 52001

While the galvanic green dial is beautiful to look at, what your eye will always be drawn to is the open balance wheel shown at 6 o’clock position. When looking from a distance, you would be forgiven for thinking that it was a tourbillon that is shown instead. Other brands have gone down the open heart route as well, such as; Frederique Constant’s Automatic Heart Beat and Zenith’s Chronomaster El Primero timepiece to new a few. 

‘Clous de Paris’
visible balance wheel

The Raymond Weil – Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Green differs from these models slightly; however, as the balance wheel is more easily visible without too many intrusions. The balance wheel and pulsating hairspring are held together by two bridges, which have been screwed down onto the dial. 

Reference : 2780 STC 52001

The self-winding Calibre RW1212 movement beats at 28,800 vph and produces a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. An interesting note is that when the Calibre RW1212 was designed, Raymond Weil had to place it into a watch that would give it the best value. The popular Freelancer model was deemed the best fit, and rightly so as the lack of chronograph or other features let the dial and the open aperture take centre stage. 

Caseback

The Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Green comes with an open case back as well, although much of the movement is covered up. What is shown, however, has been beautifully enhanced by detail. The rotor has been decorated with Geneva stripes and features the “Raymond Weil Geneve” logo. The plates under the rotor along with the bridges have a Perlée finishing. 

Caseback RW1212 movement

How does it wear?

So how does the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Green sit on the wrist? On a 6.5inch wrist, the 42mm case sits comfortably, The lugs does stick-out slightly and for a wrist size bigger than 6.5inches, would be a perfect fit. The Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Green also has a thickness of 10.6mm which is quite thin, ideally making this timepiece great for office-wear, as it can quite easily sit under a long sleeve shirt.

6.5 inch wrist

The watch comes available with two strap options; a stainless steel bracelet or a green synthetic fabric with RW folding clasp.

Green textile strap
RW stainless steel folding clasp with double push-security system

The Stainless steel bracelet is excellent for everyday wear, from the office to social events. It does allow a lot of versatility and dress options, being able to match nicely with formal wear down to more casual outfits. 

6.5inch wrist

The green synthetic fabric, however, is what makes the watch truly stand out. The synthetic fabric is not as versatile as the steel bracelet option, as you would want to avoid getting the strap wet, along with weather conditions playing a factor on the wear and tear of the strap. All of this aside, however, the green synthetic makes the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Green more aesthetically pleasing. The synthetic textiles on the fabric quite neatly match the ‘Clous de Paris’ pattern in the centre of the dial too. While probably not suited for everyday wear, the use of the green synthetic strap does allow the wearer a more comfortable fit. Like the steel bracelet option, the green synthetic fibre can be matched quite nicely with formal jackets or dress shirts as shown in the photos, along with wearing it for more casual wear. 

6.5inch wrist

The Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Green is Raymond Weil’s first in-house movement watch, which will hopefully inspire the brand to produce more simple yet beautiful timepieces with the brand’s own movements. It’s understandable that it took them so long to produce an in-house movement. The price of the watch has to be reasonable so as to not price themselves out of the market. With R&D and other associated costs, it has to be worthwhile producing an in-house movement that is competitive in pricing. With the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Green being priced at $3,150.00 AUD, I think they have done well, especially all the while showcasing just the right amount of the movement alongside the beautiful galvanic green dial. 

6.5inch wrist

Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Specification:

Model Reference:2780 STC 52001
Case Diameter: 42mm
Dial: Galvanic green and large opening at 6 o’clock
Case: Stainless Steel
Functions:  Hour and minutes
Movement: RW1212
Power Reserve: Min. 38 hours
Water Resistance: 10 ATM / 100 meters

Australian Retail Pricing: $3,150.00

Availability: Available now

Local Authorised dealers :

  • Brisbane – Wallace Bishop
  • Melbourne – Salera, Swiss Emporium and Monards,
  • Sydney – Gregory Jewellers and Wamada Jewellery
  • Perth – Mazzucchelli’s
Reference : 2780 STC 52001
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