Roger Dubuis – Watch Advice https://www.watchadvice.com.au Luxury watch reviews, news & advice Tue, 09 May 2023 02:42:51 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.8.1 Watch Spotting At Met Gala 2023 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/15429/watch-spotting-at-met-gala-2023/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/15429/watch-spotting-at-met-gala-2023/#respond Thu, 04 May 2023 07:04:37 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=15429 The Met Gala. Fashion’s biggest night of the year. An exclusive event also known as the Costume Institute Benefit, is an annual fundraising event that is held at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. This event is one of the biggest high-profile fashion events in the world, an event where you’d expect a lot of high-profile people to attend!

The event has a strict invitation policy, where only certain celebrities, fashion designers, influential figures, and models are invited. As this is a fashion event, there will be a range of outfits on show, from the stylish and classy to the wild and outrageous. With these outfits come the accessories, accessories that we love: watches.

Having a nice watch on the wrist can perfectly complement and even lift the attire being worn. Every watch collector has that one piece that comes out only on special occasions. For celebrities and attendees of the Met Gala, this is their chance to showcase the best they have. So without further ado, let’s look at the timepieces that were worn during this year’s Met Gala.

Simu Liu – Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Ref. 4500V
Image Ref: Monochrome watches/Getty Images
The Canadian actor known for portraying Shang-chi in the 2021 Marvel movie Shang-Chi was seen wearing a Vacheron Constantin Overseas. This particular model is stainless steel with a black dial.
Price: $35,500 AUD

Stormzy – Patek Philippe Nautilus

Ref. 5711/110P-001
Image Ref: Theperpetualwatch / Uproxx/Getty Images
The British rapper Michael Owuo Jr., more famously known as Stormzy, made a stylish entrance into this year’s Met Gala in a floral print blue and black suit. Accompanying this suit was his rare full platinum Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/110P with a factory diamond bezel.
Price: $155,000 USD.

Eileen Gu – IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34

Ref (IW659802)
Image ref: Watchilove / Unofficialnetworks

The 19-year-old freestyle skier has represented China in halfpipe, slopestyle, and big air events since 2019. Matching her beautiful white and pink dress was her IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34, with a pink leather strap.
Price: $30,200 AUD

Jack Harlow – Rolex GMT Master II (Batman) 

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Image Ref: Bilboard.com
Jack Harlow the famous American rapper was seen at the Gala wearing an navy Tommy Hilfiger jacket and pants, which let his stainless steel Rolex GMT stand out quite nicely. This Rolex GMT Master II has a blue and black bezel insert and is iconically known as the “Batman”.
Price: $15,050 AUD

Roger Federer – Rolex Perpetual 1908

Image Ref: Gettyimages.
One of the all-time greats, if not the greatest tennis player ever, Roger Federer in a slick and sharp suit. On the wrist? A piece that’s just as classy and elegant as his attire. The Rolex Perpetual 1908 in white gold and fluted bezel was just released at this year’s Watches and Wonders.
Price: $32,850 AUD

Rami Malek –  Cartier Tank Must

Ref. WGTA0091
Image Ref: JustJared.com
Rami Malek, the American actor who played the villain in the last Bond Movie “No Time to Die” and also the lead role in Bohemian Rhapsody wore what is a very minimalistic outfit. The somewhat plain black and white attire was accompanied by his 18l Rose gold Cartier Tank Louis.
Price: $20,500 AUD

Michelle Yeoh – Richard Mille platinum with baguette-cut diamonds

Ref (RM 07-01)
Image Ref: Jamesedition.com / Getty Images
The Malaysian actress famous for her roles in Crazy Rich Asians, Shang Chi and 007’s Tomorrow Never Dies just to name a few was seen donning the Richard Mille RM07-01. This timepiece makes use of ceramic, gold, carbon, and of course…diamonds!
Price: $1,000,000 USD

Nick Jonas – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Ref (26315ST.OO.1256ST.02.)
Image Ref: John Shearer/Wireimage
The American singer, songwriter, and actor Nick Jonas wore a sharp suit with a leather jacket combo accompanied by a very fine timepiece tucked away. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 38mm, a stainless steel chronograph with a beautiful silver dial.
Price: $31,500 USD.

Anitta – Roger Dubuis Velvet Platinum 38MM

Ref. (RDDBVE0019)
Image Ref: Mike Coppola/Getty Images
The Brazilian superstar gracefully entered Met Gala 2023 for her third appearance in a Marc Jacobs gown with a long silky train. For us watch aficionados, however, the center of her outfit was the Roger Dubuis Velvet Platinum 38mm.
Price: $ 2,155,000 AUD.
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Recap of Watches And Wonders 2023 Part 2 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/14650/matts-top-12-from-watches-and-wonders/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/14650/matts-top-12-from-watches-and-wonders/#respond Sun, 09 Apr 2023 23:22:05 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=14650 Now that the craziness of Watches and Wonders 2023 has subsided, I wanted to take a bit of a look back at some of the models that got my attention and why – there were some surprises in there!

Each year, the watch world waits to see what wonders come out of the industry’s premier trade show. Some years we see brilliance, and others years not so much. I feel that this year was a good year for the watch world, and we saw some really great pieces launched, some cool novelties and some brands just did some nice and timely updates to their core models. And from all reports, it seems that most commentators felt the same. So without further ado, here are my top 12 picks.

Piaget’s Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

Whilst Piaget added two new Perpetual Calendar models to their Polo line, my pick was the Rose gold and green. It just looks great, and builds on their release from earlier in year. At 8.65mm, it’s thin, and a the movement is stunning and complex. which can be seen through there caseback.
The fact that Piaget has also given it the quick change SingleTouch system, to swap out the green alligator or rubber strap just adds to this allowing you change the look, depending on your mood. At AUD $116,000, it’s not cheap, but you get a lot of watch for this!
You can read all about it here.

Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

Panerai went back to their roots this year, and told us their Storia Leggendaria. With this, bringing us the new Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 days) in hand finished eSteel.
Whilst not the most techically impressive, although it is an 8-day manual wind, so this is pretty decent, these are cool looking, and do hark back to their original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Also, each model is hand finished to give it the distressed look, so essentially, all unique!
Check out our write up about it here

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

Jaeger-LeCoultre focused on their Reverso Tribute line this year, and some of their models was absolutely fantastic. One of which was their Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which gives you 2 great watches in one!
Whilst each model looked stunning, my pic was the Pink Gold variant. The way the details contrast on the chronograph face, along with the “floating” look of the dial and bottom register are second to none!
For more on this, click here.

Hermes H08 In Rose Gold & Titanium

The Hermes H08 in Rose Gold and Titanium was a surprise for me. I’m not normally a fan of Hermes watches, but this model, in this combination jut works, and looks both casual, and just a little bit formal – it’s a paradox!
Hermes have used a good mix of Rose gold, titanium and black ceramic, and paired with the black rubber strap and the multi-faceted dial, all works together and is something a little different to the norm.
You can check out our write up on it here

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN “Oceana”

I’m a sucker for a good pilot’s watch, and need to add one back into the collection. And the new IWC Pilot’s Chrono 41mm in Oceana Blue is a hot contender. Although, speaking to the IWC boutique, there’s not a lot of detail on when this will be in, so I guess I’ll have to wait.
IWC have done some great releases in coloured ceramic and this is just the next to come out, and with the denim strap, looks like the perfect casual summer watch. Blending this with IWC’s DNA in pilots watches and you’ve a great piece.
Fly over to our write up on it here

Tudor Black Bay 41 Burgundy Dial

Tudor are a little more “edgy” than their big sister, but sometimes, a nice update is all you need. The Tudor Black Bay 41 with the burgundy dial was just this. Nothing ground-breaking, but a slimmer case, refined details on the dial and a choice now of three different bracelet/strap options with their T-Fit micro adjust.
Tudor have also made the movement just that little bit better – now Master Chronometer certified to 0/+5s per day and keeping the 70 hour power reserve. What more could you ask for?
For more details, check it out here

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm XPS

Chopard’s new Alpine Eagle in Lucent Steel and a stunning Monte Rosa pink dial and small seconds was one of those watches where Chopard took an already good watch and made it better! The addition of the small seconds is a nice touch, and the dial is just a stunning colour.
In this model, you now the calibre L.U.C 96.40-L movement, meaning the watch has slimmed down to just 8mm thick and the movement is beautiful with an 18k micro rotor powering it.
You can find out more about this model here

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

The Odysseus Chronograph was one of the more truly unique releases at this years event, and it was a first for the brand, having never done an automatic chronograph before now.
One of the most interesting aspects of the Odysseus Chronograph is the dial configuration using the outer track and the central seconds and minutes hands to tell the elapsed time, rather than sub dials. Plus the re-set to zero function is pretty cool, and something not seen before.
You can read all about it here

Rolex Yacht-Master Titanium

Rolex aren’t normally known for their innovative releases, but this year, they’ve come out with a first for The Crown – a sports watch in Titanium in the form of the Yacht-Master in 42mm. This is a great move from Rolex, adding another variant to the Yacht-Master line, and giving people a watch that is less dressy than the standard 40mm models, and a completely different look to the precious metal models.
It’s a great stealthy looking sports watch, and due to the titanium, is light and durable and fit for the purpose it was designed for, as we saw when Sir Ben Ainslie wore the prototype a couple of years back – leaving the world waiting for its release!
Check out my thoughts on the Yacht-Master Ti here

Grand Seiko Tentagraph

Grand Seiko have never done a fully mechanical chronograph before, having limited this complication to their spring drive models. But this year, they released a fairly under the radar chronograph that is fully mechanical. However, look at the details and its more impressive than it would initially seem.
A Ten beats per seconds chronograph, accurate to -3/+5s per day, tested over 20 days, housed in an all titanium case and finished to the standards that you expect from Grand Seiko. Its all in the small details, and this is what makes this watch a sleeper!
To check out the full write up, click here

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X

This was probably the craziest watch release this year (I cold be wrong), but you’d expect nothing less from Roger Dubuis. The Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X is designed in the theme of the new limited edition 50th anniversary Lamborghini Countach LPI 800-4. Hence the name.
Lamborghini design cues are all over this watch, from the engine case between the 90° V-Shape Double Flying Tourbillon, to the way the case looks like the wheels and tyres. It’s a serious piece of kit, to go with a serious car. But not for us mere mortals at $1,210,000 and limited to 8 pieces, I won’t be lining up anytime soon!
Check out the full write up and pics here

Bell & Ross Diver White Bronze

This may not have been on many people’s top 12, but I’ve included it for this reason. Bell & Ross have created a driver with a difference, and whilst not vintage in style, it’s got vintage style cues that just work with the overall design aesthetic.
The bronze case, paired with the opaline dial and brown strap give it a unique look, and the fact that it is ISO-6425 complied means it’s a true divers watch. It may not be for everyone, but that in my eyes isn’t a bad thing, as it means you probably won’t see many in the wild, and that’s a talking point in my mind!
Check out our coverage of it here

Well that’s it for another year of Watches and Wonders. It was a great show this year, and there were some brilliant releases, and not so brilliant releases. Whilst I couldn’t cover all of the releases here (it wouldn’t be a top 12 if I could!), you can check out all of the brands and models covered at Watches and Wonder 2023 here.

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Roger Dubuis Launches The New Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X https://www.watchadvice.com.au/14432/roger-dubuis-launches-the-new-excalibur-spider-countach-dt-x/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/14432/roger-dubuis-launches-the-new-excalibur-spider-countach-dt-x/#respond Sun, 02 Apr 2023 05:27:59 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=14432 Roger Dubuis has launched their new Hyperwatch – the Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X, in collaboration with Lamborghini, to celebrate the partnership between the two iconic brands.

The new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X isn’t just a watch, it’s a Hyperwatch, the name given to the brand’s collections that are a blend of science and art and lets face it, sheer craziness! Hyper Horology, in the words of Roger Dubuis:

We leverage our innovative spirit – combined with state of the art technology – to unveil ground-breaking world premieres. And we leverage traditional métiers to perpetuate our rare craftsmanship, and bring to life expressive and contemporary timepieces. That’s Hyper Horology™

Roger Dubuis
All new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach

The Excalibur Spider Countach is designed to mimic the aesthetics and lines of the 50th Anniversary commemorative edition Lamborghini Countach LPI 800-4 – limited to 112 cars. You can see this in the way the Roger Dubuis has crafted the Perescopio roof and NACA air intakes of the car, and incorporated this in to the watch itself. They’ve also worked in the red interior of the car into the inside of the leather strap as well as parts of the inside of the watch engravings and glass.

The 47mm watch, which is limited to 8 pieces, is finished in Pearlescent Bianco Siderale white, which is the same exact colour Ferruccio Lamborghini specified for his Countach, yet another touch that helps to evoke the spirit of the car and brings it to life in the hyperwatch.

Design cues of the Lamborghini Countach LPI800-4 comes to life in the Excalibur Spider Countach

The Excalibur Spider Countach is powered by the Calibre RD112, taking its name from the number of cars being produced (112) is a work of physics that incorporates a 90° V-Shape double flying tourbillon. The differential gear train between the two tourbillons averages out the timing of each, thus ensuring the accuracy of the watch. Adding to the partnership between Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini, the RD112 is shaped like a super car engine inspired by Lamborghini Squadra Corse.

Engine Cover replica with the 90 degree Double Tourbillon either side

The RD112 is a manual winding, double tourbillon with a 3 day (72hr) power reserve. Made up from 295 parts, 40 jewels and running at 21,600 vph (3Hz) and finished in a combination of  black-polished and circular-grained elements, with Rhodium plated bridges via PVD coating which is also across the plate and gears. At 10.2mm thick, its by no means a thin calibre, but this isn’t meant to be a thin watch. It’s big and bold, and will most definitely draw attention, just as you would driving a Lamborghini of any model, not to mention the new Countach LPI800-4!

295 parts of the The RD112 componentry expanded

In another cool nod to the car, Roger Dubuis has designed the skeleton 3-dimensional strap for maximum comfort and breathability, all inspired by the tyre partner and expert: Pirelli. The watch is made from Roger Dubuis’s patented mineral composite fibre (MCF) which is 2.5 time lighter than ceramic and 13% lighter than CMC Carbon. When viewing the watch from certain angles, it looks very much like the wheel and tyre formation on the car itself.

The watch looking like the wheel and Pirelli tyre of the Lamborghini Countach

Final Thoughts

Many watch brands have, and will continue to do car collaborations, but the Excalibur Spider Countach takes this to another level. Not only has Roger Dubuis been able to capture the essence of the Countach LPI800-4, it’s taken most of it’s design cues from the car and been able to incorporate many of it’s stylised elements into the watch, not to mention the engine canopy replica covering between the 90° V-Shape double flying tourbillon. This is probably one of the best watch/car collaborations I’ve seen in recent years where you can see the car brought to life in the watch, and really fee like you’re wearing a piece of the car itself. And if you can afford this watch, then you’ve probably already got a couple of supercars in the garage so why not add this to your collection!

Reference: RDDBEX0988

Specification

  • Case: 47mm
  • Case Material: MCF -Mineral Composite Fiber case MCF – Mineral Composite Fiber bezel Titanium crown with lacquer ring
  • Dial: Satin brushed and Rhodium plated lower flange with transfered texts and minute track, shot-blasted and NAC coated upper flange with screw-like hour markers polished and Rhodium plated, sapphires like rear lights around the tourbillons.
  • Crystal: Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating Titanium open case back with sapphire crystal
  • Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
  • Movement: RD112 | 90° V-Shape Double Flying Tourbillon. 295 components, 40 jewels, thickness: 10.4 mm. Frequency: 21,600 v.p.h / 3Hz
  • Power reserve: 72hrs
  • Strap: Skeleton 3D rubber strap with ultra-ergonomics design, including fabric mesh inserted between the rubber layers with a black DLC titanium cover, titanium blades, triple folding clasp. Interchangeable with Quick Release System – QRS

Availability: Limited to 8 pieces and a boutique exclusive. Contact Rogerdubuis.com for more information

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: AUD $1,210,000

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In Search Of The Holy (Watch) Grail Pt. 2 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/13538/in-search-of-the-holy-watch-grail-pt-2/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/13538/in-search-of-the-holy-watch-grail-pt-2/#respond Mon, 20 Mar 2023 12:03:15 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=13538 In my last article, ‘In Search Of The Holy (Watch) Grail Part 1‘, I took a look at what makes a grail watch just that – a grail watch. In this second part, we take a look some options for grail watches and why you would want to put them on your list.

When people think of Grail Watches, many people think abut rare and expensive models. Maybe your mind wanders to a Jacob and Co Astronomia Sky, or you fancy a Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe? Two very nice marvels of engineering timepieces, but unless you’re a very wealthy, and seasoned collector (or Jay Z) very out of reach for mere mortals like most of us! However in this article, I’ll look at a range of potential grail watches that are obtainable, and as explained in the previous article, a Grail Watch can change across your collecting journey based on your experience with brands, knowledge of the industry, maturity and budget. And just for fun, many of these won’t be your go-to grails, but some left of centre pieces that will (possibly) make you re-think your choices.

Two very impressive Grail Watches – Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe and the Jacob and Co. Astronomia Sky.

The Novice Collector

When many of us enter the watch world, we have some ideas of what we’d love to own one day. Now I’m making an assumption here that as a novice starting your collecting journey, you’re not flushed with cash and your first watch isn’t a Daytona. Maybe you’ve dipped your toes in the water with a TAG Heuer Aquaracer as a great entry level steel sports watch, or you want something slightly different to fuel your adventurous spirit and decided on a Longines Spirit Zulu Time – two great choices for under AUD $5,000 and a solid start to your collection. But what would a potential grail watch be in this point of your collecting journey? Let’s explore a couple of options:

IWC Pilots Chronograph 41

IWC are know for their Pilot’s watches, and the Pilots Watch Chronograph in Blue is a great Grail watch for those that have a sense of adventurous spirit. Great looking, wears well and is versatile – can be dressed up or down depending on your preference. A little bit of casual luxury at its best.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: $11,400

Zenith Chronomaster Sport

Zenith has a great history and the El Primero movement is classic, and at one point in time, Zenith supplied the Chronograph movement to Rolex to use in the Daytona. The Chronomaster Sport when released a couple of years ago was an instant hit! Despite some calling it Fake Daytona, this is a good looking watch and the perfect Grail for those wanting a great blend of classic and modern looks in a sports watch.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: $16,600

The Intermediate Collector

So you’ve collecting now for about 5 or so years. You’ve got some decent pieces in the collection, perhaps you’ve been lucky to obtain one of the above Novice Grails, and you’ve now moved your Grail Goal to something a little higher. You want something that people will instantly notice, and recognise, and know you’re serious about watches. So what do you put on your list? Here’s a couple of pieces that you could aim for…

Rolex Yacht-Master 40

Whilst not much more price wise than a Chronomaster Sport, the fact that this is a Rolex puts it into a higher tier, as generally speaking, you’ve had to have bought a few pieces through your chosen dealer to score one of these (Unless you buy grey or 2nd hand, then you’re paying more!) The Yacht-Master is a great Grail choice as it’s not your standard Submariner or GMT Master II or Daytona that everyone lusts after. It’s both sporty and elegant with the polishing on the case and inner links, can be dressed up or down and is just that little bit different!
Australian Recommended Retail Price: $17,350

Omega Blue Side Of The Moon

Now here is one for the true watch lovers. The Omega Blue Side Of The Moon (BSOTM) with moonsphase, Ceragold bezel and Adventurine dial with 18k Sedna Gold indices in an all blue ceramic case looks visually stunning, and stands out from the crowd. The Adventurine dial mimics the night sky and each dial is unique, due to the way the glass is made, and the Senda Gold Moon on the moonsphase display is stunning. At 44.5mm it’s on the larger side, but wears very well!
Australian Recommended Retail Price: $22,500

The Seasoned Collector

You’ve been in the game now for a while, you’ve got a pretty good knowledge of most things watch related, and you’ve bought, sold and built your collection over many years. In all probability, you’re a little older and financially secure (unless you’re a crypto kid, won the lotto, or have mastered your TikTok influencer game!) and now you’re looking for that “special piece” to round out your collection…for now. Two timepieces that you could explore adding to your wrist, I mean, list:

Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Yes, you read that right. Piaget. I could have gone with a Rose Gold Daytona with diamond baguettes, but that would be too obvious. The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a fantastic statement piece that says “I don’t follow the crowd”. The green dial is stunning, and Piaget pioneered the Ultra Thin movement over 50 years ago, which you can read here. It’s a 42mm case, only 8.65mm thick, and to cram all those complications into a movement that’s only 4mm thick is a work of art and science!
Australian Recommended Retail Price: $89,000

Breguet Classique Hora Mundi 5727

Breguet are known for their beautiful watch making, and whilst not a hype watch brand, they are steeped in history, and have some very elegant and classic pieces. The 18k Gold Hora Mundi 5727 combines instant time-zone jump with synchronised date, 24-hour and city indications, perfect for those wanting to travel and do it in style!
Australian Recommended Retail Price: $100,000

Money Is No Object

You’ve made it. You don’t worry about money and the world is your oyster. Perhaps you’re an A-List Hollywood celebrity, or a multi-platinum recording artist and your watch collection has it’s own room in your mansion. And for us mortals, these Grail Watches are what dreams are made of, or rather, just in our dreams! However, I won’t be showing any Patek Philippe’s or AP’s here, again those are too obvious. Here are some alternative pieces to drool over!

Blancpain Villeret Carrousel Volant Une Minute

Blancpain may be known for their dive watches, but their complications are special. The Carrousel Volant Une Minute has a one-minute flying carrousel complication that Blancpain has revived and incorporated into a watch for the first time and all enclosed into a 43mm Platinum case and 14mm thick. Oh, and it’s limited edition too just to ensure exclusivity.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: $293,200

Roger Dubuis Excalibur DT Black Ceramic

Not for the faint of heart, Roger Dubuis makes some out there watches, but they are engineering marvels, on par with the likes of Richard Mille. The Excalibur DT Black Ceramic is a manual winding, Double Flying Tourbillon, limited to 28 pieces in a 45mm case. Oh, and it’s got a Geneva Seal, so the movement is up there with the best. This is a real stealth baller watch on another level!
Australian Recommended Retail Price: $415,000

So fellow watch friends, there are some grail watch choices that you can aspire to, and work towards. They may not be the most obvious, or the most popular choices that many would have on their list, but they are fantastic pieces that should be considered. Happy collecting, and I hope that you find your Holy (Watch) Grail.

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Roger Dubuis Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone™ Monoblancier Revealed https://www.watchadvice.com.au/12600/roger-dubuis-excalibur-blacklight-spin-stone-monoblancier-revealed/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/12600/roger-dubuis-excalibur-blacklight-spin-stone-monoblancier-revealed/#respond Tue, 14 Feb 2023 11:42:38 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=12600 As we all know, Roger Dubuis creates some exceptional timepieces that push the boundaries of modern watchmaking. You only need to look at some of the timepieces in their iconic Knights of the Round Table collection to grasp the concept of hyper-horology and why they are one of the leading brands in this market.

For Roger Dubuis, creating timepieces that stand out and never be afraid to shine is engraved into their watchmaking DNA. An innovator that knows how to push the boundaries of craftsmanship and design to create some of the most stunning watches ever made in the watch industry. It looks like we have hyped up this brand quite a bit, but rightfully so, as their latest release, the Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone™ Monoblancier, is just something else entirely.

Unleashing the full potential of colourful luminescence, every detail of the new Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone™ Monoblancier is made to stand out, regardless of if it’s day or night. Roger Dubuis Blacklight’s collection has already cemented itself as a timepiece that masters radiant aesthetics while having excellent performance. This latest Spin-Stone™ Monoblancier takes this iconic collection to new heights with its glowing artistic originality.

While the audacious dial is certainly the centre of attention, the sophistication behind what holds it all together must not be left out. The 42mm case is made with the long-lasting Eon-Gold™. Eon-Gold™ is composed of 75% 18-carat gold and “non-tarnish technology”. This innovative material created by Roger Dubuis ensures that the watch case retains its brand-new showroom appearance for the life of the timepiece. The Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone™ Monoblancier comes with a white calf leather strap which is equipped with the brand’s versatile, quick strap release system, allowing for a touch of personal style on the watch.

The dial demands attention with its vivid spinels. Spinel is a valuable and expensive gemstone that owes its stunning colour to chromium, much like rubies and emeralds. Spinels come in a variety of colours, such as red, lavender, violet, blue, green, brown and black. The spinels used throughout the Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone™ Monoblancier grade from red to blue and have been coated in Super-LuminNova. The application of Super-LumiNova on these stones makes them even more incredibly stunning, especially at night or in low-light conditions. To get the exact shade for each spinel, including the uniformity and luminescence desired, each of the spinels has been synthetically grown.

It goes without saying that this watch set’s itself apart from others with its true innovation. The powerfully visible spinels that encircle the bezel and flange are a testament to this and have been given the name Spin-Stones™. This world premiere of this stone cut is patent-pending and showcases Roger Dubuis’s ability to push the boundaries of aesthetic design.

As mentioned earlier, the colours of this spinal arrangement range from red to blue, with aqua blue being on the bottom to then it transitioning to navy blue and pink, followed by red at the 12 o’clock position. This colour grading is carried out throughout the dial, from the bezel and flange to the inner workings of the eye-catching calibre’s framework, which is compromised of its own 3D spinels. The hour markers have their own spinels, which illuminate green in low-light conditions. During the day, the hour indices, like the rest of the spinels, have a much darker appearance, however still noticeable to make time readability easy.

Attention to detail is of utmost importance when it comes to Roger Dubuis’s timepieces. While this detail can be clearly seen on this timepiece, Roger Dubuis has taken it a step further with the placement of the spinels on the dial. On the bottom right corner of the dial, we see colourful micro-beams of light that reach out to form the branches of Roger Dubuis’ iconic star. At the heart of this star is non-other than a naturally fluorescent diamond, adding the final touch of detail to a brilliant timepiece.

The Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone™ Monoblancier comes with the in-house automatic RD720SQ calibre movement, which now has an increased power reserve of 72 hours. To improve stability, the movement features an optimised micro-rotor to minimise vibrations, and the balance wheel inertia has been doubled to make the timepiece more resistant to shocks. To improve efficiency and energy transmission further, the shape of the escapement has been reconfigured and given diamond-coated silicon pallet stones and new lube.

Roger Dubuis’s all-new colourful and luminous Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone™ Monoblancier is sadly limited to 28 pieces worldwide. A marvel creation in the world of Haute Horology, the innovation behind this timepiece breaks through barriers that will pave the way for further creations that are surely bound to entertain us with what’s possible in the world of watchmaking.

Reference: RDDBEX0950

Specification:

  • Case: 42mm diameter
  • Case Material: Eon-GoldTM Case with Eon-GoldTM bezel
  • Dial: Pink gold plated double surface flange set with curved synthetic spinels SPIN-STONE TM with gradient hues
  • Crystal:  Sapphire crystal with Anti-Reflective Coating
  • Water resistance: 10 Bar (100m)
  • Movement: RD720SQ Calibre
  • Power reserve: 72 Hours
  • Bracelet/Strap: Embossed white calf leather strap.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD 230, 000

Availability: Available now and a limited edition of 28 pieces. Boutique and E-commerce only.

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Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon/X https://www.watchadvice.com.au/11114/roger-dubuis-knights-of-the-round-table-monotourbillon-x/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/11114/roger-dubuis-knights-of-the-round-table-monotourbillon-x/#respond Wed, 30 Mar 2022 05:18:28 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=11114 A release that’s going to have the watch industry talking in amazement, this release by Roger Dubuis is the ultimate expression of visual mastery on a watch dial.  Much like Ulysse Nardin’s Freak S model that re-invents the game with its technical prowess, this latest edition by Roger Dubuis arguably has the most aesthetic dial out of all the releases in Watches & Wonders 2022. A big call to make, but once you see this timepiece there’s no mistaking that it’s a visual masterpiece. 

Roger Dubuis has just unveiled the latest edition of their Knights of the Round Table collection, the groundbreaking Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon/X. Hyper Horology at its finest, each new edition of the Knights of the Round Table collection has a different re-interpretation of the knights and their tale. Much like the other models in the collection, the engineers and designers at Roger Dubuis have once again got together to combine artistic mastery, horological craftsmanship, and contemporary design. For the first time in this iconic collection, the knights of King Arthur will be taking on a different beast, the force of gravity with a hidden device; the Monotourbillon. 

This is the 8th edition of the Knights of the Round collection, and it had to be quite special. The late Mr Roger Dubuis’s lucky number was 8, so the brand went all out to not only create a jaw-dropping timepiece but to re-invent the future of Hyper Horology as well. 

Design:

The round table is as iconic to the tale of King Arthur as it is to Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round collection. One of the challenges of this timepiece was creating a new design that kept this feature intact. The designers were up to the task as they made the Monotourbillon the centrepiece. Then appearing like a table, the designers have portrayed a three-dimensional illusion of the gravitational pull, which also acts as a shield to protect the Monotourbillon against the knights. This gravitational pull is shown through translucent purple blocks made from Murano glass. The 12 knights stand side by side as they prepare to tackle this invisible enemy together. 

This beautiful expression of Hyper Horology is encased in a 45mm Pink Gold 750/1000 case, which is sealed by a notched bezel. The heroic knights are cast in Pink Gold 750/1000 as well. Each of the knights has been crafted individually through micro-sculpting. The knights are small enough to fit where each hour indices lay but big enough so that every single miniature detail can be seen. The knights stand at just 6mm tall, with each hero sculpted with their personality and armour. Each knight features a pose either in defence or ready to attack the unknown beast that lays ahead. 

The watch doesn’t feature any hour or minute hands as this is where the Monotourbillon is located. Also having the hands will obstruct the view of this incredibly impressive dial. Instead, the hands have been fully integrated into the circular design. Two gold markers were chosen to indicate the position of the minute and hour with two rotating discs that are perfectly centred. 

The outer part of the dial (sitting behind the knights) is made from a single block of purple Murano glass. A total of eight layers of the decor was used to feature the knights, the hour and minute mechanism, the outer flange, and also the different heights of the Murano glass for the gravitational pull effect. Considering how much area was available to pull this off makes this very impressive. 

Roger Dubuis for this timepiece has been given the Poinçon de Genève, which is one of the most exclusive stamps of certification in modern watchmaking. This is well deserved as the Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon/X truly is a masterpiece of design, technicality, and evoking emotion. A watch that Roger Dubuis will no doubt want to be the main attraction for their Watches & Wonders 2022 exhibit, the Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon/X is the pinnacle of their artistic design combined with one of the signature complications. 

Reference: MTXEX1025

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $830,000.00 AUD

Availability: Enquire from April 2022

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Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier https://www.watchadvice.com.au/11050/roger-dubuis-excalibur-monobalancier/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/11050/roger-dubuis-excalibur-monobalancier/#respond Wed, 30 Mar 2022 05:16:28 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=11050 Hyper skilled, hyper immersive, hyper exclusive. That’s what Roger Dubuis is bringing to the table at Watches & Wonders 2022. One of two releases being unveiled is the updated version of the Excalibur Monobalancier. Roger Dubuis’s releases for Watches & Wonders 2022 are centred around their legendary collection; the Knights of the Round Table. In the world of Hyper Horology, these models aren’t there to mess around with. 

Roger Dubuis like all high-end watch brands is constantly trying to reinvent the watchmaking game. With their collection of timepieces, it is easy to see why this brand is sought after and why some of the pieces leave you breathless when looking at it. This is exactly what hyper-technical craft and hyper expressive design are. Two areas Roger Dubuis thrives on. 

Deemed as the last in the evolution of the Excalibur collection, the Excalibur Monobalancier brings the brand’s visionary engineers on board to create one incredible timepiece. The already existing Excalibur Monobalancier is taken and given a makeover which gives it a series of mechanical and aesthetic improvements. 

Design:

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier has been reimagined to give it a more sophisticated modern look. The timepiece comes in a 42mm case that features highly contrasted decorates such as sandblasted finishes, satin-brushed surfaces, and polished angles. The Excalibur Monobalancier is available in two variants, one with an EON GOLDTM* case and an embossed black calf leather strap while the other version is an EON GOLDTM* case that has 60 round cut diamonds along with the bezel. This version comes with an embossed purple calf-leather strap. 

Both timepieces come with clean-cut lines, a fluted bezel, and sharp notches. The iconic star that is on the Excalibur Monobalancier is now being elevated on this latest release so that it appears to levitate freely above the barrel. 

The micro-rotor is displayed on the dial side at 11 o’clock and has been created from Pink Gold750/1000 and is Tungsten finished. The rotor also comes with an engraving of the Roger Dubuis monogram to make its design more modern. 

Movement:

The movement in this latest Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier has been beefed up, with its performance being pushed to its limits. The new RD 720SQ calibre movement has been designed to give out an impressive power reserve of 72 hours. The micro-rotor has also been designed so that the vibrations it goes through during normal daily wear are minimised as much as possible. 

Roger Dubuis is always looking to better improve their movements and look for solutions that can do so. This is evident in the RD 720SQ movement as the Maison doubled the balance wheel inertia so that stability can be improved while also making it more resistant to shocks. The escapement wheel also now produces better efficiency and energy transmission as it is made from diamond-coated silicon and paired with adjustable diamond-coated silicon pallet stones. 

When it was Roger Dubuis’s turn to show off their latest creations for Watches & Wonders 2022, we didn’t really think they were going to be ordinary pieces, were they? The brand was determined to release some masterpieces and they have done just that with the latest edition of the Excalibur Monobalancier. Always improving, always reaching new heights of art and technical mastery, these watches show that the brand is always challenging itself to strive for new horizons. 

References: DBEX0954 (Eon gold ), DBEX0953 (Eon gold/60 Diamonds)

Specification:

  • Case: 42 mm
  • Case Material: Eon gold
  • Dial: Skeletonised
  • Crystal: Sapphire Crystal
  • Water resistance: 50 meters
  • Movement: RD 720SQ
  • Power reserve: 72 Hours
  • Strap: Calf leather straps

Australian Recommended Retail Price: DBEX0954 (Eon gold ) – $109,000.00 AUD, DBEX0953 (Eon gold/60 Diamonds) – 118,000.00 AUD

Availability: Available in boutiques from April 2022

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2022 Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table Revealed https://www.watchadvice.com.au/10573/2022-roger-dubuis-knights-of-the-round-table-revealed/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/10573/2022-roger-dubuis-knights-of-the-round-table-revealed/#respond Wed, 16 Feb 2022 14:27:40 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=10573 Roger Dubuis’s latest creation is truly something magical. The codes of passion, boldness, and commitment not only apply to chivalry but also how Roger Dubuis goes about making their timepieces. Their latest masterpiece is a tale of Legendary craft; The Knights of the Round Table. The modern-day knights depicted on the dial of this extravagant timepiece represent a group of individuals that hold themselves up to a high standard. Individuals who expect the best not only from themselves but their surrounding comrades too. This level of excellence not only rings true for these knights but also Roger Dubuis as a brand. Expect nothing but the best, create nothing but the best on their quest to represent the future of Hyper Horology. 

The tale of the Knights of the Round Table is as old as time. This latest creation takes this legacy and displays it with artistic mastery on the dial. Keeping the idea of the past, the craftsmanship and creativity of the knights have been done with the future in mind, showing that the strength of the past can be used to forge the path of the future. 

Design:

The Knights of the Round Table has been created with a 45mm pink gold casing, with pink gold and crystal sapphire bezel and pink gold and red Murano glass crown. The bezel has the signature Excalibur design with notches along with the three lugs that are iconic to previous iterations of this model. Without even starting to look at the dial we can see the amazing detail of the lugs of the case, bezel, lugs, and the design of the crown. The notches leading to the crown make it actually seem like a guard of a sword. Details like this are what makes this watch really special. And we haven’t even begun on the dial! 

In forging the legendary myth of the Knights of the Round Table, Roger Dubuis has set the tone that the knights are simply not just sitting around the table, as per previous versions of this watch. In this timepiece, Roger Dubuis tells the tale that “The threat is real. The battle is on. In the mysterious depths of a forgotten place, twelve brave knights prepare to defend their kingdom against the power of gravitational force. The ground is fracturing, the broken earth begins to crack. Sensing danger, the knights position themselves against this invisible enemy. Will they triumph? The legend is very much bought to life in the most exquisite way possible. 

Donned in 18K 750/1000 pink gold, each knight has then own unique pose, ever-ready to take on the battle ahead. Roger Dubuis states that this “hyper-expressive” craftsmanship took almost a year and a half to actually master. Through the art of micro-sculpturing, each knight comes complete with their own medieval armour, plates, shield, helmet, and individually customised weapons. Each knight is set against a transparent blood-red flange that has been developed from precious Murano glass. Murano glass has also been used for the black pieces on the dial. The black pieces are designed in a way to almost look like an open hole or crater where whatever lies underneath is about to come out and fight the knights. To depict such a tale on a watch dial with an amazing amount of detail is not only jaw-dropping but a rarity. 

Movement:

The movement used to run this masterpiece is the automatic Monobalancier RD821 calibre. Roger Dubuis is all about maintaining the highest standards of craftsmanship and excellence, which means that all parts of the 45mm movement are finished with meticulous care. The movement is created and finished according to the criteria of the Poinçon de Genève, which is one of the most exclusive stamps of certification in the world of watchmaking. 

The open case-back reveals the oscillating weight, which has been completely redesigned to now feature two woven layers of tilted pyramid shapes which make up the appearance of castle-stained glass. Around the case back display Roger Dubuis has inscribed the famous oath spoken by the knights defending King Arthur “Around this table, the bravest knights will gather as equals. They will set forth in search of adventure, righting wrongs, protecting the weak, and humbling the proud.”

This timepiece is set on a black calf leather strap and is now the first Knights of the Round Table watch in the collection to feature the brand’s Quick Strap Release System. As the name suggests, this allows for quick interchangeability of the watch straps, letting the user complete the look to their taste. Although we have to say, that the black leather strap certainly helps the watch dial take all the attention, which in this case is exactly what you need it to do! 

The hyper expressive timepiece that is the Knights of the Round Table is unfortunately limited to 28 models only. But with only a handful of these units in existence, it’ll certainly be a treasure that is well sought after. 

Honouring the legendary tale of the Knights of the Round Table, the watch is now presented in a new light with a modern design. With the incredible detail presented on this latest feat from Roger Dubuis, it proves that they have the métiers d’art credentials, which is an honour reserved only for the few. 

Australian Retail Price: $501,000.00

Availability: Available now, Limited to 28 pieces worldwide.

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2020 Roger Dubuis – Excalibur Diabolus in Machina Released https://www.watchadvice.com.au/4668/new-release-2020-roger-dubuis-excalibur-diabolus-in-machina/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/4668/new-release-2020-roger-dubuis-excalibur-diabolus-in-machina/#respond Mon, 27 Apr 2020 09:05:25 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=4668 Roger Dubuis, as a brand, was never known to be one to play by the rules. The brand lies at the summit of expressive and contemporary watchmaking as they combine secrets of watchmaking tradition along with cues of visionary genius. As Roger Dubuis put it; “the idea of life to the bravest souls is to live intensely, passionately and excessively”. This is where Roger Dubuis’ latest creation, Excalibur Diabolus in Machina comes in.

Roger Dubuis has made every effort to make sure that the Excalibur Diabolus in Machina gives the best possible Haute Horlogerie experience. The Excalibur Diabolus in Machina not only includes a minute repeater but also a single flying tourbillon in a very daring and intricate open-worked dial design. The minute repeater itself is a horological complication that is very challenging to achieve. The traditional minute repeater uses a push-piece, which activities a low chime ring for hours, high pitch for minutes and two tones for the quarter hours. Roger Dubuis has now gone a step further.

At the 11o ‘clock position is a disc which is laid underneath the roman numerals shown on the dial. The disc has been inscribed with “Hours”, “Quarters” and “Minutes”. It will start to turn as soon as the minute repeater is activated. The disc will show the wearer visually the time intervals that are being chimed. 

As a showcase to the obsessive nature to detail from the Roger Dubuis designers, a functional indicator has also been placed as a lever between the 3 and 4 o’clock positions. The lever which can be seen from the open-worked dial lets the wearer know whether it’s in “manual winding” or “time setting” position. To achieve this, on the main plate a “W” and “S” has been inscribed in the lever positions. 

As another added feature and the reason behind the Daibolus name, Roger Dubuis has chosen to tune the minute repeater to the sound of tritone. This is the famous “Diabolus in Musica” which was outlawed in medieval religious music. Roger Dubuis states that “tuned to C and G flat, its tones are enhanced by the nobility of the materials through which they resound, offering listeners an enchantingly sensory experience.”

The second notable feature of the Excalibur Diabolus in Machina is, of course, the flying tourbillon. The flying tourbillon is iconic to Roger Dubuis as it has been integral to their timepieces and brand identity from the start. The movement powering flying tourbillon as well as the minute repeater in the Excalibur Diabolus in Machina is Roger Dubuis’s Calibre RD107. The calibre RD107 has a total of 558 components, 30 metres (3 Bar) water resistance and puts out a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. 

Besides the intricate and nothing short of amazing features, the watch is also visually appealing. While it may seem hard to read with the hour and minute hands matching the openwork dial, the blue main plate along with the minute track helps to break up the colour and make it somewhat easier to tell the time. The 45mm casing, bezel and crown have all been manufactured with CarTech Micro-Melt BioDur CCMTM (®in the USA). To match the dial, the Excalibur Diabolus in Machina comes in interchangeable 3D calf leather strap, which comes with the interchangeable titanium cover and titanium triple folding buckle. 

If it wasn’t obvious already just by looking at it, the Excalibur Diabolus in Machina is more than just a watch. As Roger Dubuis put it best “It is a manifesto for an exclusive tribe of pioneering minds on an incessant quest to constantly reinvent their own game.” 

Production: Unique series 1 of 1

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