The Melbourne-born actor had his first big break by featuring in the Australian hit tv show “Home and Away” but his big breakout role came with Thor. Chris Hemsworth has also featured in films outside of Thor, with roles in “Snow White and the Huntsman”, “Rush”, “In the Heart of the Sea”, “Ghostbusters” (2016), “Extraction 1 & 2” and “Men in Black – International”. Hemsworth’s charismatic performance and natural charm have made him a fan favorite on and off the screen.

Chris Hemsworth is not only known for his acting skills but also for his dedication to portraying the given role, sometimes undergoing rigorous physical training. The impressive physique he built for Thor along with his acting skills has solidified his status as one of Hollywood’s leading actors, all the while earning a significant fanbase worldwide.

Off-screen Chris Hemsworth is known for his philanthropic efforts and advocacy for environmental conservation, using his massive following to raise awareness about climate change and wildlife preservation. One of Hemsworth’s hobbies offscreen is his love for luxury timepieces. The actor has quite a taste, with pieces ranging from Audemars Piguet, Rolex to Bvlgari. Below we’ve showcased the pieces that he’s been spotting wearing, whether it’s on set, on the red carpet, or just out with family and friends. Just like his Mjölnir in Thor, Chris Hemsworth knows how to swing beautiful timepieces in real life.

1. Rolex Day-Date Platinum 228236

2. Rolex Submariner 126618LN

3. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked black ceramic.

4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 26420RO

5. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 26331OR

6. Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 102946

7.  TAG Heuer Autavia Jack Heuer Limited Edition

8. TAG Heuer Carrera Automatic Chronograph CBN2012.FC6483

9. Casio G-Shock GW-9400-3 RANGEMAN

The 2023 Fifa Women’s World Cup is the 9th edition so far, and with each tournament passing becoming an ever more popular event around the world. The tournament is held a year after the men’s edition, and for the first time for the Women’s World Cup, the tournament has been expanded to include 32 teams.

With this prestigious sport comes the many stand-out stars from each team. As they stand out on the pitch with their performances, outside of the pitch they show their taste in fashion and their taste in luxury timepieces. In this article, we present some of the female international stars that represent the sporting world of football and the watches they’ve been spotted with!

Sam Kerr

Seen as one of the best forwards in Woman’s football history, Sam Kerr is a proud Australian football star. The captain of the Australian National Woman’s team, the Matildas, and current club player for Chelsea Football Club, she holds quite a few records for herself. Records such as all-time leading goal scorer for W-league and Matildas along with National Woman’s Soccer League Golden Boot just to name a few.

IWC recently (June 29th, 2023) was proud to announce Sam Kerr as the newest Friend of the Brand. Kerr states in regards to this partnership “I am excited to represent IWC because it is a company that celebrates those who follow their dreams,” states Kerr. “Throughout my career, I have always stayed true to myself which is something IWC and I have in common. Whether it is through sports or engineering watches, we strive for excellence by doing things our own way.” 

With this partnership, Sam Kerr has been spotted wearing quite a few IWC watches, in particular their chronograph models. One of her go-to timepieces has been the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Rose Gold Green Dial (Ref. IW388110). The timepiece features the brand’s in-house Calibre 69385 movement giving out a power reserve of approximately 46 hours.

Megan Rapinoe

Megan Rapinoe is a current American professional soccer player that plays as a winger for the United States National Team and also OL Region at club level. Megan Rapinoe was part of the 2019 squad of the United States National Team that won the prestigious Women’s World Cup Trophy. Not only was she part of the winning team, she played a crucial role in the final but scoring a penalty.

Off the field, she has good taste in timepieces, with her being spotted wearing a Rolex Day Date “President”. This Day-Date 40 model is made from 18 ct yellow gold with a champagne-color dial, fluted bezel, and the iconic President bracelet. It’s been said that Megan Rapinoe bought herself the Day-Date 40 as a gift for winning the 2019 Women’s World Cup.

Leah Williamson

Leah Cathrine Williamson OBE is an English professional Football player who currently plays for Arsenal and is Captain’s the English Womens National Team. Leah Williamson has spent almost all of her career at the domestic level at Arsenal where she has won many accolades with the team and also on a personal level. Although she has won the Euro’s and is a national hero, unfortunately, she was not able to make the cut for the 2023 Women’s World Cup as she ruptured her anterior cruciate ligament in April, forcing her to sit out of the England squad and give the captaincy to Millie Bright.

Leah’s choice of watch brand also appears to be Rolex, as she has been seen wearing a Rolex Datejust 36mm two-tone. This model comes with a steel case and a two-tone jubilee bracelet. Matching the gold of the bracelet is a beautiful champagne dial, followed by the iconic large Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock.

Lucy Bronze

Lucy Bronze is another Professional English Football player that has achieved great success. Her hard work and ability has made her a consistent contender for FIFA Player of the Year Award. She currently plays at the club level for Liga Futbol Club Barcelona and also the English Women’s national team. Some of her personal accolades include being named BBC Women’s Footballer of the Year for 2018 and 2020 along with being named the first English footballer to win the UEFA Women’s Player of the Year Award.

Much like her English compatriot, Leah Williamson, Bronze also prefers to wear a two-tone Rolex. She has been spotted wearing a Rolex Datejust 16013 on Jubilee Bracelet. Like Leah’s Rolex, this model has a 36mm stainless steel case with a two-tone Jubilee bracelet made from stainles steel and 18k yellow gold. The dial is white with Roman numerals in 18k yellow gold, along with the the Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock.

Alex Morgan

One of the biggest American icon’s when it comes with Women’s Football, Alex Morgan achieved quite a lot of success in her career as a professional footballer. For her international success, the pinnicle is her winning both the 2015 and 2019 FIFA Women’s World Cup. She has acheived numerous success on club level as well, including the prestigious UEFA Women’s Champion League. Her personal accollades are too long to list here, but does include a host of golden boots for her role as a Foward.

Outside the world of football, Alex Morgan is ambassador for Hublot, and she has been seen wearing a range of Hublot timepeices. One of her favourite Hublot’s seems to be the Big Bang One Click Steel Blue Diamonds 39MM, which she collaborated with Hublot. The polished and satin-finished stainless steel comes with a bezel 42 diamonds totaling ~1.00ct. The watch is perfectly complimented with a blue rubber and alligator leathe strap.

Regardless of the price bracket, purple dial timepieces are certainly not easy to come by. Many brands either opt to stay away from colour or only reserve it for special limited edition runs. Either way you look at it, it seems like a real shame that brands aren’t bringing more of this stunning colour into their collections.

Who knows, maybe purple dials may come back as a trend in the near future, much like the Tiffany blue or “iced blue” dial trends, albeit these two already fall into the category of the more popular coloured dials. Maybe what we need is a high-profile watchmaker to release a purple dial timepiece in a non-limited run to set things off. Until then, however, we present to you seven high-end purple dial timepieces that are available on the market. Keep in mind, some of these models may be limited editions, so if your heart desires one it may be best to look into the second-hand market.

Zenith – DEFY 21 Ultraviolet

Ref. (97.9001.9004/80.R922)

Featuring Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero 21 1/100th of a second chronograph movement, this 44mm matte titanium watch features a beautiful violet skeleton dial. Even though it’s the main plate of the movement that’s purple, it can be still easily be seen by the viewer. To match the dial is a violet and black rubber strap.

This is easily one of our favourite purple dial timepieces. With the skeleton dial, and matte titanium case, it all blends together nicely. And more importantly, looks spectacular on the wrist with that 1/100th of a-second chronograph function!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $21,100.00

Rolex – Datejust 36mm

Ref. (126234)

This white gold and oystersteel Datejust 36mm comes with an aubergine diamond set dial. The dial features Roman numerals for the hour indices, with the Roman VI and IX set with 24 diamonds. The aubergine dial has a sunray finish, done through brushing techniques that creates grooves that move outwards from the centre of the dial.

The aubergine dial will play with light beautifully thanks to this sunray finish. With the rest of the timepiece finished in either white gold or oystersteel, it allows the aubergine dial to really stand out. The Datejust is finished with its iconic fluted bezel and jubilee bracelet.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $16,950.00

Hublot – Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Purple Sapphire

Ref. (645.JM.0120.RT)

This list wouldn’t be complete without a sapphire timepiece from Hublot. The Tourbillon Purple Sapphire Big Bang is one up there for being one of Hublot’s most daring timepieces, and it’s available in purple!

The timepiece’s polished purple sapphire crystal stands out as one of the best-looking purple timepieces in this list, complimented nicely by its transparent purple structured lined rubber strap. The Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Purple Sapphire is limited to a run of 50 models.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $309,000.00

Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding Chronograph

Ref. (26331BC.GG.1224BC.01)

A purple dial timepiece in Audemars Piguet’s lineup is no common sight, however, the model they currently have is a stunner to say the least. Featuring a plum purple sunray finish dial with Audemars Piguet’s iconic “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, the purple stands out beautifully especially with the white gold hour indices and counters.

If this wasn’t enough, the whole timepiece (case & bracelet) is done in 18k white gold with a “hammered” finish, to give the watch a frosted look. Overall just an amazing-looking timepiece. The model is limited to a run of 200 watches.

Did your heart beat faster too just looking at it?

Australian Recommended Retail Price: By Appointment Only

H. Moser & Cie – Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept

Ref. (1343-0212)

If you’re after a purple dial timepiece, just to showcase the purple dial and nothing else, who does it better than H. Moser & Cie? The brand’s Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept is one of their purest collections, showcasing nothing but just the beauty of the dial and the hour, minute and second hands.

And what a beautiful dial it is. This limited edition (20 models) features a Purple Haze fumé dial that one can get lost in quite easily. Pictures don’t do this dial justice. The watch comes in a 40.8mm solid 18-carat white gold case with the brand’s hand-wound HMC 343 calibre movement, that gives out a staggering power reserve of 7 days!

International Recommended Retail Price: CHF 24,000

MB&F – LM101

Ref. (LM101 WG Purple)

In 2021, MB&F released three new editions for their iconic LM101 timepiece. One of these models was the striking purple dial matched with 18k white gold case. The watch itself is a feat of watchmaking engineering, but accompanied by this purple dial it becomes something else entirely.

While, yes, the blue dial LM101 is one beautiful watch, especially that hue of blue, but the purple is just as if not more mesmerising. Like the H.Moser&Cie’s fume dial, you can catch yourself (and quite possibly everyone around you) staring at the beauty that lays on the surface of this watch. The definition of mechanical “Art for your Wrist”.

International Recommended Retail Price: 73‘000 CHF

Czapek – Faubourg De Cracovie Purple Panda

Even though this timepiece is sold out (can be pre-ordered for the next possible run), we thought it should still get a mention due thanks to its artistic purple dial. The Czapek Faubourg De Cracovie comes with a handcrafted Guilloché “Résonance” bombé dial in purple and white, which gives the dial a beautiful artistic look.

The Guilloché “Résonance” bombé pattern also revolves around the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock sub-dials, instead of it being a uniform pattern on the dial. The timepiece is offered in a 41.5mm stainless steel case with the brand’s caliber SXH3 movement sitting inside.

International Recommended Retail Price: 32‘000 CHF

The first article, which can be found here, discusses the history of the watch escapement and its many different evolutions of designs that led to what is being used by mechanical watchmaking brands worldwide today. It also talks about why the escapement mechanism is such a vital part of the movement, and without it, the movement essentially becomes useless.

From that article, we know that the modern watch escapement for brands takes the form of a lever escapement design (created initially in the 18th Century). What this article aims to show is the different forms of design or design variations of the lever escapement that modern brands are using. While it’ll be almost impossible to cover all the different designs in one article, we will cover the brands that stand out for their design, or use of materials to improve the modern escapement mechanism in a series of articles.

In this article, we will look at Rolex’s Chronergy escapement design. The next few articles giving insight into A.Lange & Sohne’s Constant-Force Escapement mechanism, and Ulysse Nardin’s Anchor Escapement design (so make sure to keep an eye out for those pieces!). Each brand has its own take on the escapement design, and as mentioned previously they take the initial base design from the lever escapement. The only brand out of the three mentioned above that uses a different system is Ulysse Nardin with their Anchor Escapement system.

Rolex Chronergy Escapement

A quick definition of the lever escapement before we dive into the modern re-interpretations. The lever escapement is a ‘detached’ escapement, where the balance wheel only comes into contact with the lever during the short period when it swings through its center position, after which it swings freely for the rest of the cycle. Impulse is provided to the balance via a lever which is moved through the force from the escape wheel teeth contacting the pallet jewels of the lever.

The “tick” sound you hear on most mechanical timepieces is when the tooth of the escape wheel locking against onto the pallets. Then the pallet fork lets the wheel escape (hence why it’s called escape wheel!) until it grabs or locks onto the next tooth on the escape wheel, thus producing the “tick-tock” sound of a watch. It found that the difference in time between the “tick” and “tock” of an escapement mechanism is approximately 1/8th of a second! This is also where watch frequency comes into play. When a timepiece has 28,800 VpH/frequency this means that there are 28,800 “ticks and tocks” per hour! In other words, the pallet fork locks, escapes, and locks again onto the escape wheel 28,800 times per hour.

The reason why the lever escapement has been used worldwide for mechanical watches is the fact that it has been proven to be robust, reliable as well as being easy to manufacture on a large scale. This does not mean that the lever escapement is the final “perfect design”. Improvements can most certainly be made, and companies with the resources and funding are able to do just that, and produce new designs that can be used for large-scale rollouts.

One company to do just that was Rolex. It was noted that one of the weaknesses of the standard lever escapement was that during high-frequency (Hi-beat 28,000 – 36,000 VpH) the transmission efficiency was greatly reduced to about 30-40% compared to normal frequency ranges of 18,000-21,000 VpH. One of the ways Rolex found to improve this efficiency was to change the design of the escape wheel and the pallet fork. The standard lever escapement comes with a “Club tooth” design, which is what Rolex focused on changing to bring about more efficiency to the lever escapement design.

Rolex’s patented design uses thinner pallet forks along with wider teeth for the escape wheel. The lever bridge design has also been drastically changed, however, this is not related to the purpose of increasing efficiency but rather reducing space in the movement itself while still having the same functionality of the standard lever escapement. The escape wheel design of the Chronergy escapement has more of a skeletal design, where the tooth attached to the wheel has been hollowed out. This saves overall material use while also still providing strength as the tooth is braced effectively.

This cut-out design of the escape wheel also makes it lighter than the standard escape wheel design. This, in turn reduces its overall inertia. In regards to this new escapement design, Rolex states, “This optimized escapement, named Chronergy, is the result of extensive research that led to a new design of the pallet fork and escape wheel. These two redesigned components are made of nickel-phosphorus, an alloy that makes them resistant to magnetic interference. The escape wheel has a cut-out design to make it lighter and reduce its inertia. Thanks to this innovative geometry, the efficiency of the escapement, which continues to provide optimum reliability and resistance, is improved by 15%.”

Rolex’s new Chronergy escapement has been used in several of their movements so far, including the brand’s in-house new generation calibre 3235 and 3255 movements, which were presented in 2015. In 2018, Rolex also unveiled the 3285 calibre movement, which also includes the Chronergy escapement design. In 2023, Rolex released the calibre 4131 movement to replace the 4130 released back in 2000. Alongside the release of calibre 4131 in 2023 were the calibre 7140 movement and also calibre 9002 movement releases.

All three of these calibre releases for 2023 use Rolex’s patented Chronery escapement design, proving just how efficient and reliable this system is, while also providing an increase in power reserve from the standard Swiss lever escapement design. Through this article, its shown that the modern lever escapement design can certainly be improved to gain more efficiency in the system. Stay tuned as Watchadvice will do a series on the Modern Watch Escapement, with the next article in this education segment looking at Ulysse Nardin and their Anchor escapement!

A Little Bit Of History First…

The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona was originally launched in 1963, with this year marking the 60th anniversary of the watch. Whilst “Daytona” wasn’t originally on the dial of the very first reference (The Rolex Cosmograph ref. 6239), and in fact early Rolex ads called it the “Le Mans”, the watch quickly became synonymous with motorsport and of course Dayton: Both the 24 race and the tests of speed at Daytona Beach.

Somewhere in the mid 60’s Daytona is added to the dial due to Rolex’s official partnership with the race and we see the likes of Paul Newman wear the watch, now the classic reference “Paul Newman Daytona”. Whilst not one reference can be attributed as the Paul Newman Daytona, you can find Paul Newman’s in references 6239, 6241, 6262, 6264, 6263, depending on the year and dial configuration. Paul Newman owned and wore both a Reference 6239 and 6263, with the original 6239 selling at Auction in 2017 for around $17 million USD.

2023 “Le Mans” Daytona

There’s too much history on the Daytona for us to cover here, so let’s fast forward to 2023, where this year we see the 60th Anniversary of the Daytona. Watches and Wonders took many by surprise with the release of the new Daytona references, which you can read about here, with redesigned features and even a sapphire crystal case back (a first for the brand) on the re-vamped Platinum Daytona. Just when you thought we had seen it all, Rolex, as it likes to do, surprises us again with yet another variant of the Daytona, this time linking it with the 24 hours of Le Mans, and delivering a vintage inspired watch.

The new Rolex Cosmograph Daytona this time comes in 18k white gold, adding to their precious metal Daytona line up already in Rolesor, Yellow Gold, Platinum and Everose Gold. This is a good move for the brand as it does set it apart from the much sought after steel version collectors and enthusiasts (and flippers) can’t get enough of. And perhaps, it does give people who have the cash another option to get the watch, albeit with a slightly different look, that matches the price tag of over $70,000 AUD.

In a nod to the 100th Anniversary of the 100th running of the 24hr of Le Mans, Rolex have coloured the “100” on the Tachymeter scale in red ceramic, matching the red Daytona writing on the dial. It’s a nice subtle touch that doesn’t distract from the style or design of the Daytona, and would give wearers and observers that “If you know, you know” vibe.

In addition to this, Rolex have chosen to give the new variant vintage styled chronograph counters, and when you look at the vintage Daytona’s from the 60’s, its easy to see the 60’s style cues coming through. Comparing this to the new models released earlier in the year at Watches and Wonders, I can’t help feel this Le Mans edition looks better, it’s more classic and the dial seems more balanced with the solid white dials as opposed to the new thinner sub-dial rings.

Under the hood, or through the display case back as it were, is a variation of the new 4131 movement found in the standard Daytona models. The Rolex calibre 4132 is a modified 4131, due to the fact that this model has a 24hr counter, as opposed to the 12hr dials found on it’s slightly older siblings. Measuring 24hrs means some subtle changes to the movement, by means of an additional, patented mechanism made up of seven components, which could be likened to a differential redesigned by Rolex. In simple terms, it’s a gear reduction system which halves the rotation speed of the gear train that drives the 24 hour counter.

The movement is a good looking movement, and for the price tag, looking at the movement should be a given, and thankfully Rolex agrees. The bridges of calibre 4132 feature a Rolex Côtes de Genève decoration, which differs from the traditional Côtes de Genève by the addition of a slight polished groove between each band, and the rotor is cut-out 18k yellow gold.

The rest of the watch is typical Rolex and typical Daytona. The Cerachrom bezel, glare proof sapphire crystal, 100m water resistant and Triplock winding crown with Oyster case make this a true sports watch. Combine this with the sunray black dial, white gold hands and indices with Chromalight lume and you’ve a the quintessential Rolex.

Final Thoughts

The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is a classic, and highly sought after for a reason. It transcends time and trends, and with this edition celebrating the 100th Anniversary of Le Mans, it gives you a modern Rolex with some great vintage vibes. It’s almost like taking the best of the 60’s style and fusing it with the technology of 2023.

The proportions look better than the 126500LN launched in March due to the full white vintage dials, and the 24 hour counter is a nice touch linking to the original 1963 version, and personally, the red ceramic 100 on the tachymeter dial is a cool touch. At 40mm diameter and 12.2mm thick, it should wear as well as any other Daytona and if you’re lucky enough to get your hands on one, (and this is THE one to get!) then hold on to it as this could be a future collectible. Whilst its not limited, we can’t help think that production of this specific version will be low. Time will tell…

References: 126529LN

Specification:

• Case: 40mm
• Case Material: 18k White Gold, polished finish with Oyster case construction.
• Dial: Bright black, gloss, sunray finish; intense white counters. Hour markers in 18 ct white gold, highly legible Chromalight
• Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 100 m (10ATM)
• Movement: Calibre 4132 with 24hr counter, beating at 28,800 Vph (4Hz) accurate to -2/+2 sec per day.
• Power reserve: 72 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Oyster bracelet in 18 ct White Gold. Oysterlock folding safety clasp with easylink comfort extension link (approx. 5 mm)

International Recommended Retail Price: USD $51,400

Availability: TBA

The event has a strict invitation policy, where only certain celebrities, fashion designers, influential figures, and models are invited. As this is a fashion event, there will be a range of outfits on show, from the stylish and classy to the wild and outrageous. With these outfits come the accessories, accessories that we love: watches.

Having a nice watch on the wrist can perfectly complement and even lift the attire being worn. Every watch collector has that one piece that comes out only on special occasions. For celebrities and attendees of the Met Gala, this is their chance to showcase the best they have. So without further ado, let’s look at the timepieces that were worn during this year’s Met Gala.

Simu Liu – Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Ref. 4500V
Image Ref: Monochrome watches/Getty Images

The Canadian actor known for portraying Shang-chi in the 2021 Marvel movie Shang-Chi was seen wearing a Vacheron Constantin Overseas. This particular model is stainless steel with a black dial.

Price: $35,500 AUD

Stormzy – Patek Philippe Nautilus

Ref. 5711/110P-001
Image Ref: Theperpetualwatch / Uproxx/Getty Images

The British rapper Michael Owuo Jr., more famously known as Stormzy, made a stylish entrance into this year’s Met Gala in a floral print blue and black suit. Accompanying this suit was his rare full platinum Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/110P with a factory diamond bezel.

Price: $155,000 USD.

Eileen Gu – IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34

Ref (IW659802)
Image ref: Watchilove / Unofficialnetworks

The 19-year-old freestyle skier has represented China in halfpipe, slopestyle, and big air events since 2019. Matching her beautiful white and pink dress was her IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34, with a pink leather strap.

Price: $30,200 AUD

Jack Harlow – Rolex GMT Master II (Batman) 

Ref. 126710BLNR-0003
Image Ref: Bilboard.com

Jack Harlow the famous American rapper was seen at the Gala wearing an navy Tommy Hilfiger jacket and pants, which let his stainless steel Rolex GMT stand out quite nicely. This Rolex GMT Master II has a blue and black bezel insert and is iconically known as the “Batman”.

Price: $15,050 AUD

Roger Federer – Rolex Perpetual 1908

Image Ref: Gettyimages.

One of the all-time greats, if not the greatest tennis player ever, Roger Federer in a slick and sharp suit. On the wrist? A piece that’s just as classy and elegant as his attire. The Rolex Perpetual 1908 in white gold and fluted bezel was just released at this year’s Watches and Wonders.

Price: $32,850 AUD

Rami Malek –  Cartier Tank Must

Ref. WGTA0091
Image Ref: JustJared.com

Rami Malek, the American actor who played the villain in the last Bond Movie “No Time to Die” and also the lead role in Bohemian Rhapsody wore what is a very minimalistic outfit. The somewhat plain black and white attire was accompanied by his 18l Rose gold Cartier Tank Louis.

Price: $20,500 AUD

Michelle Yeoh – Richard Mille platinum with baguette-cut diamonds

Ref (RM 07-01)
Image Ref: Jamesedition.com / Getty Images

The Malaysian actress famous for her roles in Crazy Rich Asians, Shang Chi and 007’s Tomorrow Never Dies just to name a few was seen donning the Richard Mille RM07-01. This timepiece makes use of ceramic, gold, carbon, and of course…diamonds!

Price: $1,000,000 USD

Nick Jonas – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Ref (26315ST.OO.1256ST.02.)
Image Ref: John Shearer/Wireimage

The American singer, songwriter, and actor Nick Jonas wore a sharp suit with a leather jacket combo accompanied by a very fine timepiece tucked away. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 38mm, a stainless steel chronograph with a beautiful silver dial.

Price: $31,500 USD.

Anitta – Roger Dubuis Velvet Platinum 38MM

Ref. (RDDBVE0019)
Image Ref: Mike Coppola/Getty Images

The Brazilian superstar gracefully entered Met Gala 2023 for her third appearance in a Marc Jacobs gown with a long silky train. For us watch aficionados, however, the center of her outfit was the Roger Dubuis Velvet Platinum 38mm.

Price: $ 2,155,000 AUD.

The birth of the GMT watch came during the era in which commercial airlines first started overseas travel. During the “Jet Age” aircraft powered by jet turbines allowed for social and cultural changes, where the public was able to for the first time have international travel. One of the problems that arose with international travel was jet lag and the fact that pilots were losing track of time back in their home country. GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time, and is time zone zero against which all other timezones are measured against, also referred to as UTC (Coordinated Universal Time).

The first GMT watch that was ever created to fix the issue of two time zones was the Glycine Airman in 1953. This timepiece was designed to specifically meet the pilots requirements of being able to tell two different times, which is why the dial at the time of creation looked so unorthodox. First the dial had a 24-hour scale instead of the traditional 12-hour. This would display the local time. The bezel then featured another 24-hour scale, which would be used to tell the second timezone. While the Glycine Airman was certainly the first, they didn’t get the attention they deserved as the watch never caught on.

This is where Rolex would come in, and was one of the first brands to step in and develop a watch to display two timezones with the traditional 12-hour dial. Having already mastered different feats such as making a watch functional at deep sea levels and also at high altitudes prior to this, the brand was certainly up to the task. The watch they envisioned and ultimately created in 1954, became an icon. A design that is still used to this day for their modern GMT watches.

The Rolex GMT-Master Pan Am built in 1954 came with a Pepsi-coloured bezel and a red arrow-tipped GMT hand. As the name suggests this timepiece was designed specifically for Pan American World Airway’s pilots as they crossed multiple timezones. With the addition of the red GMT hand, pilots were able to distinguish two separate time zones at once.

How exactly does the GMT function work?

The GMT function on a watch is a relatively simple one to use. To use a GMT function, the watch first needs to have a 24-hour scale in which the second (or third) time zone can be read from. A GMT timepiece will come with a 24-hour scale on either the dial itself (usually along the minute track) or as markings on the bezel.

The GMT function is used by having the GMT hand read the second timezone in 24-hour format. For example, say we are in Brisbane where the time is 7:00 am, and we have family in Singapore where the time is 5:00 am, the GMT hand would simply need to be adjusted to meet 5:00 am on the 24-hour scale on the bezel or dial scale (if it exists). If both the bezel and dial 24-hour scales are shown, then a 3rd timezone can be read.

A 3rd timezone is read straight from the bezel as it’s the only timescale that can be adjusted. As the second timezone can be read from the dial’s timescale. Using the example above, if we had friends in Geneva, the time would be 11.00 pm (relative to 7:00 am Brisbane time). Without moving the GMT hand, as it is set up to read the second timezone through the dial’s 24-hour timescale, the bezel would be adjusted so that the GMT hand would read 11:00 pm.

For ease of use, the local time needs to be shown on the main dial, with the second and third time zones being shown by the GMT function. Having a second-time zone (or third) can come in real handy not just for knowing the time back home or time where you’re family/friends are residing. It can also be used for knowing for example the market opening of the overseas stock market. Another practical use is as business to know when your overseas suppliers/operations are opening, or when your international client wants to set a meeting for a certain time. All this can be done by a quick glance at a GMT watch, provided it is set up correctly initially.

Well, maybe not dead, but its popularity has certainly waned over the last few years. Admittedly, I’ve never really been a dress watch type of guy. I’ve always preferred the sports watches over anything else. Maybe because my lifestyle in Queensland is more outdoors and casual, but even before I lived here, back in Sydney I gravitated towards the steel sports watches. I assume it’s mostly because back in the early 2000’s many successful people I knew wore Rolexes, Omega’s, Breitling’s and Panerai’s, and this coupled with movie characters and advertising of people I looked up to, wore the same. And who says ads don’t work?

Putting this aside, the last few years has seen a definite trend towards sports watches, and away from dress watches. COVID has definitely played a part in this – with many people working from home and not the office. Prior to this, if you worked in a corporate environment with a suit, a dress watch made complete sense. All of a sudden, you’re at home in T-shirts and shorts, or whatever was the most comfortable to sit for hours on end at your kitchen table, lounge, outdoor entertaining area, or really where ever. A dress watch here didn’t make sense anymore. Now we’re out of COVID, and life seems to be back to a relative normal, and people are back in the office (at least part of the week), we should be seeing dress watches more right? It appears it’s not so much the case.

Changing Trends

Awards shows are always a good gauge on fashion trends, and watches, like it or not, are part of modern day fashion. And there certainly is a trend to see guys in suits sporting steel sports, or precious metal sports watches, not the typical understated watch on a nice leather strap, 40mm and under. You now see AP, Rolex, Patek, and even most recently, Dwayne Johnson rocking a TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 for the Academy Awards as a poetic nod to the fake TAG he wore when he was broke in his “7 Bucks” days, a departure from his standard go to of AP or Panerai in precious metal. But again, this proves my point, these are not dress watches either, albeit they are slightly more dressy than an Aquaracer!

Speaking to a few people in the know, they tend to agree. Dress watch sales have been in decline. Sports watches are taking their place, and for some brands, models that are hybrid dress/sports with interchangeable straps are becoming more popular. And this makes sense. Why spend good money on a dress watch that you may only wear every now and then (assuming you’re not in a suit and tie all day) when you can purchase a watch that is versatile and with the change of a strap, you can change the look? I know I’m gravitating towards this more and more.

The other theory I had was that people are just more casual these days. People want to be comfortable and this is extending into all areas of their lives. This can be seen across all areas of the luxury market. Luxury street wear is now more popular than ever, and replacing more formal attire in this sector.

Casual Luxury

An article from the New York Times in August of 2021 (which you can read here) highlighted this perfectly. Wall Street, the bastion of wealth and also formality had dressed down! The Suits were no longer in suits. If this wasn’t a sign I don’t know what was. And this trend permeated across the globe. Australia was not immune and I would suggest, was adopted a lot quicker than in other countries.

Luxury had to follow. Now I don’t know where I heard the term, or maybe I just came up with it myself, but “Casual Luxury” is now in vogue. LV back packs, Hugo Boss sneakers, Gucci bomber jackets and of course, watches. And now, it seems that almost anything goes. An IWC Pilot 41 Chronograph with a suit? Sure! Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time on rubber for a nice dinner out? Yep! And Rolex, AP and Patek Philippe are go to pieces for any occasion, and that is part of the appeal of a luxury sports watch. Dress a Submariner, Royal Oak or Nautilus up or down. To be honest, I know I would.

The data would also suggest this is the case as well. Just take a look at the latest Morgan Stanley figures for the Swiss Watch industry in 2022. Brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre who are predominantly known for their dress watches have slid from their position at #10 in 2017 to #14 in 2022, Bulgari, who up until recent years focused on dress watches, have slid from #15 in 2017 to out of the Top 20 in 2022. And it’s no surprise that Chopard, who are known for their luxury jewellery and watches of a more dressy and formal nature have doubled down on their sports watch range, most notably with the hit that is the Alpine Eagle – a great sports watch that is easily dressed up or down.

The Dress Watch Dilemma

I have had the pleasure of trying on and testing numerous dress watches over the past year or so, and some I loved, some not so much. My favourite of late was the Glashuette Original PanoMaticLuna. A brilliant dress watch, finished superbly and a great, and more affordable alternative to the A Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Moonshpase. I’d buy this in a heartbeat. If I only had the occasion to wear it! And these days, I don’t go to too many formal occasions, and for any watch related event, I’m normally wearing something from the brand or if not, and not too formal (most event’s aren’t too formal), my Zenith on the steel bracelet fits the bill.

Continuing on this thought path, I would now tend to look for a watch that I can wear often, if not everyday. I went to a formal event this weekend actually, and was lent a good friend’s Rolex Daytona in Rose Gold on Oysterflex. This was perfect for the event, looked the part and you feel a million dollars wearing it. And this is his almost everyday watch. Why? because it dresses up just as well as it dresses down. And this is what I’m now considering for my next purchase. A piece that is versatile, and can be either dressed up, or down. Not a big watch, most probably 40mm and not too thick, and preferably with the ability to change the strap or bracelet easily. A watch that can go from the boardroom to the beach to black tie. Am I asking too much?

Final Thoughts

But this does bring me back to the original question. Is the dress watch dead? Maybe for now, with the time we’re living in and the trends that are around today it is. Or maybe it’s just hibernating, waiting to be woken up when times have changed. And this is what fashion does. It ebbs and flows, it’s cyclical. Trends comes and go, and they come back around again. So maybe in the not too distant future, we’ll all be dressing up again, heading to work in suits and ties, when going out or travelling, putting on our Sunday best. But for now, my Sunday best is a pair of shorts and a Polo shirt, and on my wrist is a sports watch. And I’m perfectly ok with this!

We always love to know what you think. Drop a comment in the comments section below and tell us if you agree or not? We’d love to hear your thoughts.

Each year, the watch world waits to see what wonders come out of the industry’s premier trade show. Some years we see brilliance, and others years not so much. I feel that this year was a good year for the watch world, and we saw some really great pieces launched, some cool novelties and some brands just did some nice and timely updates to their core models. And from all reports, it seems that most commentators felt the same. So without further ado, here are my top 12 picks.

Piaget’s Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

Whilst Piaget added two new Perpetual Calendar models to their Polo line, my pick was the Rose gold and green. It just looks great, and builds on their release from earlier in year. At 8.65mm, it’s thin, and a the movement is stunning and complex. which can be seen through there caseback.

The fact that Piaget has also given it the quick change SingleTouch system, to swap out the green alligator or rubber strap just adds to this allowing you change the look, depending on your mood. At AUD $116,000, it’s not cheap, but you get a lot of watch for this!

You can read all about it here.

Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

Panerai went back to their roots this year, and told us their Storia Leggendaria. With this, bringing us the new Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 days) in hand finished eSteel.

Whilst not the most techically impressive, although it is an 8-day manual wind, so this is pretty decent, these are cool looking, and do hark back to their original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Also, each model is hand finished to give it the distressed look, so essentially, all unique!

Check out our write up about it here

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

Jaeger-LeCoultre focused on their Reverso Tribute line this year, and some of their models was absolutely fantastic. One of which was their Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which gives you 2 great watches in one!

Whilst each model looked stunning, my pic was the Pink Gold variant. The way the details contrast on the chronograph face, along with the “floating” look of the dial and bottom register are second to none!

For more on this, click here.

Hermes H08 In Rose Gold & Titanium

The Hermes H08 in Rose Gold and Titanium was a surprise for me. I’m not normally a fan of Hermes watches, but this model, in this combination jut works, and looks both casual, and just a little bit formal – it’s a paradox!

Hermes have used a good mix of Rose gold, titanium and black ceramic, and paired with the black rubber strap and the multi-faceted dial, all works together and is something a little different to the norm.

You can check out our write up on it here

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN “Oceana”

I’m a sucker for a good pilot’s watch, and need to add one back into the collection. And the new IWC Pilot’s Chrono 41mm in Oceana Blue is a hot contender. Although, speaking to the IWC boutique, there’s not a lot of detail on when this will be in, so I guess I’ll have to wait.

IWC have done some great releases in coloured ceramic and this is just the next to come out, and with the denim strap, looks like the perfect casual summer watch. Blending this with IWC’s DNA in pilots watches and you’ve a great piece.

Fly over to our write up on it here

Tudor Black Bay 41 Burgundy Dial

Tudor are a little more “edgy” than their big sister, but sometimes, a nice update is all you need. The Tudor Black Bay 41 with the burgundy dial was just this. Nothing ground-breaking, but a slimmer case, refined details on the dial and a choice now of three different bracelet/strap options with their T-Fit micro adjust.

Tudor have also made the movement just that little bit better – now Master Chronometer certified to 0/+5s per day and keeping the 70 hour power reserve. What more could you ask for?

For more details, check it out here

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm XPS

Chopard’s new Alpine Eagle in Lucent Steel and a stunning Monte Rosa pink dial and small seconds was one of those watches where Chopard took an already good watch and made it better! The addition of the small seconds is a nice touch, and the dial is just a stunning colour.

In this model, you now the calibre L.U.C 96.40-L movement, meaning the watch has slimmed down to just 8mm thick and the movement is beautiful with an 18k micro rotor powering it.

You can find out more about this model here

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

The Odysseus Chronograph was one of the more truly unique releases at this years event, and it was a first for the brand, having never done an automatic chronograph before now.

One of the most interesting aspects of the Odysseus Chronograph is the dial configuration using the outer track and the central seconds and minutes hands to tell the elapsed time, rather than sub dials. Plus the re-set to zero function is pretty cool, and something not seen before.

You can read all about it here

Rolex Yacht-Master Titanium

Rolex aren’t normally known for their innovative releases, but this year, they’ve come out with a first for The Crown – a sports watch in Titanium in the form of the Yacht-Master in 42mm. This is a great move from Rolex, adding another variant to the Yacht-Master line, and giving people a watch that is less dressy than the standard 40mm models, and a completely different look to the precious metal models.

It’s a great stealthy looking sports watch, and due to the titanium, is light and durable and fit for the purpose it was designed for, as we saw when Sir Ben Ainslie wore the prototype a couple of years back – leaving the world waiting for its release!

Check out my thoughts on the Yacht-Master Ti here

Grand Seiko Tentagraph

Grand Seiko have never done a fully mechanical chronograph before, having limited this complication to their spring drive models. But this year, they released a fairly under the radar chronograph that is fully mechanical. However, look at the details and its more impressive than it would initially seem.

A Ten beats per seconds chronograph, accurate to -3/+5s per day, tested over 20 days, housed in an all titanium case and finished to the standards that you expect from Grand Seiko. Its all in the small details, and this is what makes this watch a sleeper!

To check out the full write up, click here

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X

This was probably the craziest watch release this year (I cold be wrong), but you’d expect nothing less from Roger Dubuis. The Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X is designed in the theme of the new limited edition 50th anniversary Lamborghini Countach LPI 800-4. Hence the name.

Lamborghini design cues are all over this watch, from the engine case between the 90° V-Shape Double Flying Tourbillon, to the way the case looks like the wheels and tyres. It’s a serious piece of kit, to go with a serious car. But not for us mere mortals at $1,210,000 and limited to 8 pieces, I won’t be lining up anytime soon!

Check out the full write up and pics here

Bell & Ross Diver White Bronze

This may not have been on many people’s top 12, but I’ve included it for this reason. Bell & Ross have created a driver with a difference, and whilst not vintage in style, it’s got vintage style cues that just work with the overall design aesthetic.

The bronze case, paired with the opaline dial and brown strap give it a unique look, and the fact that it is ISO-6425 complied means it’s a true divers watch. It may not be for everyone, but that in my eyes isn’t a bad thing, as it means you probably won’t see many in the wild, and that’s a talking point in my mind!

Check out our coverage of it here

Well that’s it for another year of Watches and Wonders. It was a great show this year, and there were some brilliant releases, and not so brilliant releases. Whilst I couldn’t cover all of the releases here (it wouldn’t be a top 12 if I could!), you can check out all of the brands and models covered at Watches and Wonder 2023 here.

So instead, we present my favourite twelve picks that came out of this year’s Geneva show, from Rolex’s Daytona to Vacheron Constantin’s Retrograde update.

Ulysse Nardin Freak One

The latest update to one of the most daring timepieces created in the 21st century. This newest creation, the Freak One, comes packed with technology while still remaining durable, easy to use, and designed to be worn as a daily.

The timepiece has been given a black DLC-coated titanium case with a rose gold 5N bezel with a matching dial interior. The three signature characteristics that made the Freak an icon is retained on this timepiece: no hands, no dial, and no crown. Ulysse Nardin is aiming to make the Freak One its flagship timepiece. You can read more about this latest FREAK creation here!

TAG Heuer Carrera Date 36mm

While TAG Heuer updated quite a few of their collections, one that stood out beautifully was the new colourways for the new Carrera Date 36mm.

The vibrant pink dial is just made to stand out. The added snailed finish on the dial makes it a stunning timepiece. TAG Heuer made a bold choice to break away from the traditional colours of black, blue, or white. A choice that we think will pay off for the brand. To see more of this pink dial Carrera Date plus more, click here!

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

No list would be complete without seeing the latest update from Rolex. The Rolex Daytona is as emblematic as it gets in the world of watches. The entire range of Daytona’s got an update for this year’s Watches and Wonders.

While the update to a lot of the models in this collection seemed minor, especially aesthetically, what stood out was the 950 platinum edition. Rolex has, for the first time in a Daytona, given the timepiece an open case back. Only visible on the 950 platinum model, Rolex has given this new Daytona collection the new-generation calibre 4131 movement. Read more about this latest update to the Daytona here!

Hublot Square Bang Unico New Editions

2022 saw the release of a world-first, square-shaped Bang Unico from Hublot. This model has enjoyed a lot of success since its release, so why not bring it back with an impressive update?

This year Watches and Wonders saw Hublot unveil three new editions for their Square Bang Unico. Two models in white and black sapphire and an incredible Square Bang Unico in Sapphire. Hublot is one of the leaders of using sapphire materials in their timepiece, so it only makes sense to bring two impressive designs together. Read all about the new Square Bang Unico here!

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Retrograde

Vacheron Constantin, this year has been all about the retrograde update, with some existing collections getting this feature. One of these collections is the Overseas line.

What is already a stunning timepiece with that gorgeous blue dial, this all-new Overseas model gets the retrograde function. The retrograde display is a historical design for Vacheron Constantin, one that fits beautifully on this timepiece as is also accompanied by a moon phase indicator. Read more about this retrograde update for Vacheron’s Overseas model here!

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition

I’ve always been a fan of Montblanc’s Geosphere timepiece. The fact that you get the northern and southern hemispheres on the dial spinning in sync with the day/24hr time was always interesting to see.

Now, Montblanc has given the 1858 Geosphere a new update. Montblanc introduced a new capsule collection that pays tribute to the world’s 14 highest peaks. These mountains are all above 8000 feet and have barely any oxygen, which is the central theme in this new collection. Read more about this latest 1858 Geosphere creation from Montblanc here!

IWC Schaffhausen’s Ingenieur Automatic 40

IWC has given their Ingenieur collection a newly engineered update, which references design codes from Gerald Genta’s Ingenieur SL (ref. 1832) from the 1970s.

The new collection comes with four models, with three models being made from stainless steel and the fourth given the titanium treatment. It takes an old classic and gives it modern design features while also improving wearability and performance. All the right ingredients to make it hit in the world of watchmaking. Read more about IWC’s newest Ingenieur Automatic 40 collection here!

Cartier Skeleton Collection

While this isn’t a singular watch, the entire Cartier Skeleton collection makes it into this list. For this year’s skeleton models update, Cartier is upgrading four new collections, each with their own iconic shape and design.

The Santos-Dumont, Pasha de Cartier, Santos de Cartier, and a grand complications pocket watch are getting aesthetic and mechanical upgrades. With a flawless balance between the movement and dial, Cartier has mastered the art of making skeleton watches, more so evident through this latest collection of skeleton timepieces. Read more about this collection here!

Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton In Black Ceramic

Following on from 2022’s update for the DEFY Skyline models with the new generation of seminal El Primero high-frequency calibre movements, 2023 sees the watches get a new aesthetic upgrade.

Two models in the DEFY Skyline line get a black ceramic makeover, with one of the models being the Skeleton. Crafted entirely in black ceramic, including the bracelet, the DEFY Skyline Skeleton is one of the standout pieces in Zeniths 2023 releases. To read more about this timepiece, click here.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Bi-colour

This year, Oris has updated the Aquis collection with new colours and materials. With the combination of the coloured rubber straps, the Oris Aquis Date Calibre Bi-colour for is one of the stand-outs in the collection.

This fun summer timepiece is offered in two dial colour variations (deep blue and forest green) and has an 18-carat fold finish on the edges of the bezel and matching gold details on the dial. Oh, and did we mention that it features Oris’s incredible 5-day power reserve Calibre 400 movement? If this piques your interest, click here to read more!

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

This one for all the racing enthusiasts out there. The iconic and ageless design of the original 1963 Heuer Carrera has inspired this latest creation from the Swiss giant. With a fresh new dynamic styling, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph will be released with two dial variants: a black and blue dial.

The dial carries a lot of colour accents, with them being the gradient orange ring, a reference to racecar speedometers. Each variant of this new Carrera Chronograph has its own character; however, what’s clear is that both timepieces carry the Carrera icon into the next generation with ageless styling and high-quality movements. To find out more about this Carrera Chronograph update, click here.

Baume & Mercier Riviera 39mm Collection

Another collection of timepieces that stood out was Baume & Mercier’s 39mm Riviera line. Released as part of the celebrations of Riviera’s 50^th anniversary, this new collection is offered with different material and dial variations.

Available in either stainless steel with a smoked blue dial or smoked grey sapphire dial or titanium bezel with a smoked grey dial, this new Riviera collection features a beautiful wave transfer decoration on the dial. This latest update for the Riviera collection brings it forward to a new era while keeping all the essence of what makes this piece loved by watch aficionados. To read more about this collection, click here!