Watch brands, especially Swiss brands are looking into their past more than ever before. The trend of vintage inspired and vintage re-issues isn’t slowing down, and for many watch enthusiasts, this is a good thing. Smaller case sizes, pieces that have legitimate history and designs that are more classic than contemporary, mixing vintage style with modern technology and materials.

So it’s not surprising that many brands now have Heritage Directors, or similar roles with similar descriptions, and these roles are fast becoming some of the most important in the business. The person who is essentially in charge of looking back into the archives, and working out which of these pieces, designs or styles will be the next big hit with watch buyers world wide. It’s both an envious and daunting position!

TAG Heuer is one of these brands. It’s no secret that TAG Heuer has had its share of ups and downs over the years, but in recent years, TAG Heuer has really re-focused its efforts on what it stands for, where it’s future lies and taking lessons from the past. A large part of this is thanks to people like Nicholas Beibuyck – TAG Heuer Global Heritage Director.

Nicholas is one of the most down to earth humans you will meet, and this is quite refreshing in the world of luxury watches. For someone who has a position that is charged with digging into the brand’s history and heritage, looking for cues and inspiration that can help drive the brand forward, Nicholas seems to remain calm, collected and chilled.

Like most of us, Nicholas got into watches as a youth, and his journey with TAG Heuer started long ago, again, not too dissimilar to many of us who first look at getting a nice, Swiss luxury watch. From trying to buy his first Heuer watch at an auction and not winning it, to when he was able to pick up his first piece, TAG Heuer and vintage watches has always had a place in his heart.

Watch Advice sat down with Nicholas for a long talk over several coffees last month, and we got so engrossed in conversation that our interview almost took a back seat. But that is the beauty of this hobby and possibly a testament to the type of guy Nicholas is.

On The Brand

Nicholas is fortunate to have turned his love of watches, and for TAG Heuer into a career. But whilst he has a deep rooted love for the brand, he’s not under any illusions that TAG Heuer hasn’t had its share of challenges. “The fact is 99% of the time when someone walks into one of our boutiques, they’re not saying they want a Heuer or a TAG Heuer, they say I want a TAG, ‘cause that was the brand that was built through the 1990’s and gave us huge, huge visibility, so most people have become familiar with the company since 1990 effectively.”

“So as a result, what you think of is the series 2000, the series 1000 and in the modern times, a bit of Carrera, a bit of Monaco. But you understand that ‘96/’97 relaunch, but you don’t understand what that meant in the historic bit. You might go back and learn about it, and there’s been more story telling around that…But there’s a lot more education to do around this space.”

He goes on to talk about the brand’s potential, and now at this current time in the watch industry TAG Heuer could and should be up there with the likes of Rolex or Omega, and how this inspires him to do the role he does.

“I always said I’d never join a brand, but when you see a brand at the, you know, at the very bottom when it should be compared to the Rolex’s and the Omega’s of the world you feel kind of obligated to come and do something, and that’s the reason I push for projects like Only Watch, some of the future fine watchmaking things that are to come in the future…Also to work with the likes of Carole Kasapi or Edouard Minon, great to have resources like the TAG Heuer Institute, we’ve a really great team internally who have a passion for watch design and development, engineering, production – it’s great, great fun!”

Story telling is also a major part of the watch industry. For many people, the story and the heritage of the brand can give one brand higher perceived credentials over another. It’s one reason people buy a brand, especially if that story is linked with something else a person is passionate about. Asking him about this point regarding TAG Heuer, he agrees and reiterates his previous point.

“I mean the fact is we have so, so many stories to tell, I mean you can see from last night [referencing the TAG Heuer Carrera Heritage Dinner in Melbourne we attended] I spoke for about 30 or 40 minutes, I can speak for hours on any topic, you know, not because it’s something I know particularly well, it’s the fact that we have so many stories to tell, they keep going.”

“The other thing I always say is that watches are a vehicle for education. Things I know around finance, economics, world history, politics this and that, it’s all come from watches. They’re just there as a vehicle for education, to learn about these things. And for us, to position ourselves not only as Heuer or TAG Heuer the brand, but how we fit into the eco-system at that particular moment in time, and how we fit in around the whole global situation at the time. It’s super, super, super important”. Perhaps he’s right.

On The Australian Watch Customer

We in the watch industry can sometimes be somewhat removed from the average watch consumer. As journalists and enthusiasts, we scrutinise brands and watches to the finest detail. However, we often forget that the average watch buyer is just that – buying a watch, usually their only watch to wear each day, and they’re not looking at the ins and outs of the watch, the movement, finishing, what era that vintage throwback is associated with etc. They are buying it because they like the brand, hold it in some sort of esteem and because they simply like the watch.

The newly released TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper and earlier this year, the TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox are prime examples of this. They were launched to much acclaim at both Watches and Wonders in late March, and the Skipper last month which is based off the Carrera Glassbox platform, similar praise mostly due to the design, style and sizing. We in the watch community love that, but is it what the Australian watch buying public want?

Nicholas weighs in: “It’s a good thing to discuss as at the end of the day what we want to be as a brand, and who we want to be selling to, vs where we have been historically and who we’ve historically sold to are quite far apart. It’s very easy for us to sit around as enthusiasts and say 39mm is the perfect size, but I can tell you the amount of people who walk into the boutique and say I love the watch but it’s too small proves the fact that the critic for the industry plus the enthusiast space is a very small part of the market place!”

“When you look at the Australian public, and look at who’s wearing our watches it’s understandable they’d be interested in something bigger. As an example, we did a workshop with some collectors in Sydney earlier in the week, and yeah a lot of the younger guys were like “39mm is perfect for me” but then there was almost like a generational shift where older guys were “I love 42, I wouldn’t wear anything smaller than that.” So finding this kind of balance is kind of another step we have to get through”

This last point he makes is an interesting one, and one that the industry and the brands within does need to tackle: The critic vs the consumer. Just like a movie that is made to win Academy Awards and hailed by critics is quite often not a huge box office success, the box office blockbuster is a fun filled action flick like The Avengers or Fast & The Furious. Some are made for the enthusiasts, others are made for the wider public!

But Nicholas sees this as an opportunity for TAG Heuer.

“I think we’re in such a unique position as a brand with TAG Heuer we can appeal to a very wide market segment. If you look at the Carrera now, the smallest size is 28, then we go up to a 32, then we go to 36, then we go to 39, then to 42 and up to 44 and 45. So you can see in that stretch from  28 to 45, clearly there’s a massive segment that we can appeal to with that spread, and particularly when you look around the centre – from 36 to 42, so many good options”.

“So for us, to continue to leverage that, and we know there’s a big gap in the Carrera line up that been a hot commodity for a long while, which is the extreme sports with the open worked dial, so that will see a re-emergence in the not too distant future. It means we can have this more classical aesthetic and this more contemporary aesthetic that balance stuff out.”  

A Balancing Act

Mixing classic, vintage, the past and modernity is not easy when it comes to watch design, and blending this with consumer wants and needs then adds another layer of complexity to this. We spoke to Nicholas about this balancing act, and how he and TAG Heuer achieve it.

“The good thing is it’s not binary, it’s very much a sliding scale, many shades of grey between two extreme points, and it’s really about us iterating and considering the design. I mean the number of 3D prints we would do, the number of renders we would do is huge! That’s the bit that no one ever sees, is kind of how the sausage is made.”

“At the end of the day it’s totally subjective. I’m not the oracle deciding what watches to spit out as at the end of the day, if you make watches for one person…I mean it’s not specific to TAG Heuer, but you see watches that were clearly made for one person, because the CEO insisted on it, but they were total commercial failures. As the moment you try to appeal to a very narrow market segment they have very, very limited commercial appeal about it. All you can try and do is create something that has, not say that the brand becomes so diluted it becomes grey porridge, you have to create something with enough character that speaks to who you are as a brand but at the same time, resonate with a very, very broad spectrum of people”

When you think about this, mass, commercial brands do need to address this. Small independents, especially those that are in the high horology market have the luxury to an extent of designing what they want, and due to the watchmaker, like an F.P Journe, or Rexhep Rexhepi,  they can make tens of watches at a high price point and there will be a market for these. When you talk about brands like Omega, Breitling and of course TAG Heuer, this isn’t something they can really entertain. When you’re making hundreds of thousands of watches each year, you need a certain formula that people know and will buy.

“When you get to our end of the spectrum, it’s hundreds of thousands of watches. So, how many people we have to appeal to, and  even engaging with new clients and existing clients to buy more watches from us, that’s a very different conversation to flying around the world, or even inviting people to Switzerland to tell them one specific story vs do a marketing campaign with Ryan Gosling which is seen by 22 million people on YouTube, we’re not even talking about the same industry.”

It’s a complex problem to have. But TAG Heuer seems to have a decent handle on how they can take the words mass and luxury and blend them together, even though to Nicholas’s own admittance, they’re still very much on a learning curve in this area.

“The fact is as a brand we’re still learning to do that in a better way. We were so marketing driven as a company, we were so focused on these big high level sponsorship agreements and ambassadors that actually we didn’t talk about our Savoir Faire, we didn’t talk about our know how, the institute, the lab, the manufacturing side of it. We didn’t communicate about all these topics that make TAG Heuer and the product what it is today.”

Surprisingly, this is one of the main issues we hear about TAG Heuer, and refreshing to hear that TAG themselves understand this and are putting things in place to help rectify this. Talking to Nicholas the night before, he does mention that TAG Heuer have really stripped back their commercial sponsorships and partnerships by somewhere in the realm of 70%-80% and are now looking at how they communicate their story and craftmanship with the watch buying public.

“You can talk about or competitors in our rival group, the fact is they talk about making their own stuff. Well the fact is they have a centralised production facility for a lot of their movements, but we genuinely have, particularly with the TH20 and the Heuer 02, it’s made in Chevenez. We have full flexibility. Yes we work with AMT, Le Joue Perez and Kinissi for three of our movements, but the chronograph is so important to us, that is exclusively for us, that is not for anyone else. And to have these kind of expertise at our disposal is very, very special! “

The Future

Looking at where TAG Heuer is heading, you get sense that they’re on the right course. As a brand, they have some big hurdles to overcome, and a fair bit of negative brand sentiment from staunch watch enthusiasts from their heavy marketing days of the 90’s and 2000’s. But this is a problem they are tackling head on, and as a starting point, they are letting their watches do much of the talking – Breaking new ground with new pieces they’ve never done before and just putting their money where their mouth is, they’re are slowly changing the narrative.

“How we communicate that to a broad market that historically didn’t even care what movement is inside an Aquaracer, that is a big, big shift for us and that’s something that’s going to take a few years to achieve and with Only Watch, we now have this kind of Trojan Horse to break through this space and open it up and prove that we are a legitimate high end watch maker. When you look at the nuts and bolts of what we have as a business it’s just so, so impressive, we just need to open the door a little bit and have that conversation and share that.”   

And when you look at their entry into Only Watch later this year, you can see this in the metal, or the Titanium as it were! The Only Watch Monaco Split-Seconds a first for TAG Heuer – an automatic split-seconds chronograph, one of the most complicated chronograph complications on the market today, housed in a re-designed case inspired by the original 1969 model constructed from texturised Titanium and a fully skeletonised movement made from Titanium as well. This was a piece that was two years in the making, and went through multiple design and prototype phases, developed by TAG Heuer at the TAG Heuer Institute.

“We poured a preposterous amount of resources into the project. It was so much fun! We were very fortunate that we had senior management that were supportive of this passion, you know they could see it. So when it eventually came out and you’re physically holding the piece, they were like this is insanely cool. Even if you don’t understand fine watchmaking, when you hold this watch in your hand, you’re like holy shit, this watch is cool!”

TAG Heuer’s entry to Only Watch is a clear indication of where the brand is heading, a blend of heritage, honouring this and those pieces that made both the Heuer and TAG Heuer brand famous, with both innovation and pushing the envelope on where the brand can head. Nicholas sums this up well:

“We have to be very respectful of, very protective of the legacy of the brand and these icons, so we have to bare that in mind, but at the same time, innovation is in our name – Techniques D’Avant Garde. We are an Avant Garde manufacturer, so we have to balance these things together and that’s really what’s driving us further forward right now.“

“The Only Watch is the perfect example of this, or even the new Glassbox Carrera, we’ve taken all these fantastic codes and foundations we’ve had in the past, whilst integrating the very latest in manufacturing technology. And what we’ve done at the TAG Heuer Institute is blend this in a progressive balance.”

“You look at the Glassbox Carrera, you’ve got the blue, you’ve got the reverse panda. One is more modern, one is contemporary. You look at the Monaco, you can still go out and buy your Steve McQueen look alike, but you can also go out and buy a Titanium skeletonised version as well. So to be able to have this broad spectrum is what is so powerful for us as a brand. And I can genuinely say hand on heart, no other manufacturer can do what we do in that capacity.”

This last point sums it up perfectly for TAG Heuer, and you can see this eventuating over the past few years and with the releases that they are bringing out, like the new Carrera Glassbox, and the newly released Skipper. But this is what the watch enthusiasts want. The general buying public maybe not so much, when you think back to Nicholas’s earlier point. But then this is why TAG Heuer still produce those bigger pieces, and can appeal to this market segment, and maybe why Australian’s gravitate towards the brand more so here than in other countries – they have something for almost everyone.

When you talk to people like Nicholas, who are one of the pivotal people driving the business and brand forward globally, and people like Van Mulryan, GM of TAG Heuer Australia, leading the brand’s charge locally, you get a strong sense that TAG Heuer will keep pushing and evolving for the better. They’re on a long journey, and this is just the start.

The Melbourne-born actor had his first big break by featuring in the Australian hit tv show “Home and Away” but his big breakout role came with Thor. Chris Hemsworth has also featured in films outside of Thor, with roles in “Snow White and the Huntsman”, “Rush”, “In the Heart of the Sea”, “Ghostbusters” (2016), “Extraction 1 & 2” and “Men in Black – International”. Hemsworth’s charismatic performance and natural charm have made him a fan favorite on and off the screen.

Chris Hemsworth is not only known for his acting skills but also for his dedication to portraying the given role, sometimes undergoing rigorous physical training. The impressive physique he built for Thor along with his acting skills has solidified his status as one of Hollywood’s leading actors, all the while earning a significant fanbase worldwide.

Off-screen Chris Hemsworth is known for his philanthropic efforts and advocacy for environmental conservation, using his massive following to raise awareness about climate change and wildlife preservation. One of Hemsworth’s hobbies offscreen is his love for luxury timepieces. The actor has quite a taste, with pieces ranging from Audemars Piguet, Rolex to Bvlgari. Below we’ve showcased the pieces that he’s been spotting wearing, whether it’s on set, on the red carpet, or just out with family and friends. Just like his Mjölnir in Thor, Chris Hemsworth knows how to swing beautiful timepieces in real life.

1. Rolex Day-Date Platinum 228236

2. Rolex Submariner 126618LN

3. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked black ceramic.

4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 26420RO

5. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 26331OR

6. Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 102946

7.  TAG Heuer Autavia Jack Heuer Limited Edition

8. TAG Heuer Carrera Automatic Chronograph CBN2012.FC6483

9. Casio G-Shock GW-9400-3 RANGEMAN

Back in May, TAG Heuer released three Monaco Skeleton models in Titanium ahead of the Monaco Grand Prix, which you can read here and in a year where TAG Heuer are focusing on their racing inspired line, the latest edition, the Chronograph Racing Blue Limited Edition came as a little surprise.

Just in case you’re a little rusty on your TAG Heuer history, the Monaco was unveiled in 1969. It was unique and bold at the time, a racing chronograph in a square case featuring the Calibre 11, which was the first Chronograph to be offered to the public and totally unique. Subsequently it was made famous by Steve McQueen in the movie “Le Mans” when released in 1971, and hence the classic Le Mans / Steve McQueen Monaco model we know today.

This latest edition, the Racing Blue Limited Edition is an ode to the racing spirit and the national racing colours of French racing teams and cars that you see on their livery, even today. In the early days of motor racing, cars were distinguished by their national colours rather than manufacturer or sponsor liveries. Each country had its own specific hue, such as the renowned British racing green, the vibrant Italian red, Germany’s initial use of white before transitioning to silver, and the unmistakable shade of blue associated with the French.

This latest Monaco features a sandblasted grade 2 titanium case measuring 39mm in diameter and 14.35mm thick, and within this, a brushed sunray silver dial reminiscent of the engine-turned dashboard seen in sports cars in the 1920s and 1930s. This is offset with 2 sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock in an azure blue that brings the dial to life and compliments the lighter shaded lume pips around the edge of the hour markers. The dial is broken up with a bright lime yellow seconds hand, mirrored in hour marker at 12 o’clock.

The blue on the dial is further enhanced in the blue calfskin strap with perforations, a signature for watches linked to racing. The strap is secured with a titanium folding clasp, featuring the engraved Heuer logo.

Inside the TAG Heuer Chronograph Racing Blue is the Calibre 11, the movement that’s powered the Monaco for more than a decade. Beating at 4hz and with 40 hours of power reserve, it’s a workhorse movement that is tried and tested, and visible through the see through case back, has a few embellishments like the Geneva Stripes and Pearlage on the plates.

The case-back is also engraved with the limited edition “One of 1000”, and the watch is presented in a specially designed vibrant blue packaging with lime yellow details.

Specification

Reference: CAW218C.FC6548 – Limited to 1000 pieces

• Case: 39mm, 47.4mm lug to lug
• Thickness: 14.35mm thick
• Case Material: Titanium grade 2 sandblasted case
• Case back: Grade 2 Ti with sapphire crystal case back
• Dial: Sunray brushed silver dial with blue opalin sub-dials. Hands and indexes rhodium plated with blue Super-LumiNova®
• Crystal: Beveled, domed sapphire crystal
• Water resistance:100m / 10bar
• Movement: Calibre 11 Automatic Chronograph
• Power reserve: 40 Hours
• Strap: Blue perforated calfskin strap with Grade 2 titanium folding clasp with double safety pushbuttons

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $13,350

Availability: Available now from all TAG Heuer Boutiques, Selected Retailers and online at tagheuer.com

A little over a week ago, the Watch Advice team sat down to look at all 62 Lots that will make up this year’s Only Watch – the charitable auction that raises money for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy – a disease affecting 1 in 3500 boys that progressively weakens all their muscles, including the heart, the loss of the ability to walk and global autonomy as they get older. 

We selected 10 pieces that were the most unique, those pieces that we felt the brands who made them pushed the boundaries in terms of either out of the box thinking, or something very different in design or materials to what they would normally do. If you missed our first article, then you can read Our Top 10 Picks For Only Watch 2023: Part 1 here. Now, onto part 2!

Lot 39 – Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata

Why We Love It

Louis Vuitton have been doing some out there pieces recently, remember the Tambour Opera Automata released earlier this year? LV’s high watchmaking via their La Fabrique du Temps is out there, and this piece is no exception. It incorporates a lot of artisanal techniques such as the micro-sculpture and grisaille enamel on the dial, and depicts the likeness of Albert Einstein in one of his most notorious photographic and mischievous portraits, sticking his tongue out in an unexpected moment of levity.

Being part of their Automata collection, it has the LV 525 calibre Automata mechanism featuring 4 animations, jumping hours, retrograde minutes and power reserve indicator so you can see how much of the 100 hours you have left!

Full Details: Only Watch – Louis Vuitton

Lot 41 – Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece

Why We Love It

Maurice Lacroix normally play in the mid range luxury segment and not normally a brand you would think producing a skeletonised hand-wound movement in a completely clear, hand finished sapphire case and crown. The movement also showcases the Only Watch 2023 colours across the off-centre dial’s periphery and indices, and on the bridges and plates.

This style of watch and the techniques used are a first for the brand, showcasing Maurice Lacroix pushing their boundaries here. The open-worked design allows the wearer to see the regulating organ, the mainspring in various states of tension, the gear train and even the keyless works. This puts Maurice Lacroix into the realms of high horology!

Full Details: Only Watch – Maurice Lacroix

Lot 55 – TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds

Why We Love It

The Monaco isn’t a new watch for TAG Heuer, it’s a classic. But what this watch is, is a first on many levels for TAG Heuer. The new TH81-00 is a first for TAG – an automatic split-seconds chronograph, is one of the most complicated chronograph complications on the market today. This is housed in a re-designed case inspired by the original 1969 model, but this time TAG Heuer have constructed it from texturised Titanium, designed and made in-house at the TAG Heuer Institute. Oh, and the movement, it’s also titanium!

This watch has been two years in development and showcases that TAG Heuer is really starting to look to both its past and future when it come to it’s watches, not just high level pieces. Well done TAG Heuer!

Full Details: Only Watch – TAG Heuer

Lot 58 – Tudor Prince Chronograph One

Why We Love It

This a little left of field this one. The Tudor Prince isn’t in the current Tudor line up, but it was up until 2000. For Only Watch 2023, Tudor has gone back in time to 1976 and brought the Tudor Prince Chronograph back to life, updating it substantially for 2023. This time, the brand has gone out on a limb and created their Only Watch version in full 18k yellow gold, compete with the oyster bracelet and patented T-fit clasp.

The chronograph movement is first for the brand however, with a brand new MT59XX prototype chronograph calibre built from the ground up and fully in-house. With a -2/+4 secs per day accuracy and their standard 70hr power reserve, this is a movement you will start to see filtering down eventually to the Black Bay Chrono, or maybe a re-birth of a classic is in store?

Full Details: Only Watch – Tudor

Lot 60 – URWERK Space-Time Blade

Why We Love It

We love this because, well it’s just cool. The Space-Time Blade is a 1.67m tall clock that tell the time with hours, minutes and seconds, and in addition, tracks the speed of the Earth’s rotation through space. This links nicely back to their watch pieces, like their UR-100 with the revolving satellite display and distance travelled on Earth and distance travelled by Earth.

The tube is made in collaboration with Dalibor Farny, the company behind the Nixie Tube clocks, which this consists of eight individual tubes in the blade, and connects to the bronze pedestal. This is one piece that would look great in the corner at night, with each tube emitting an orange glow.

Full Details: Only Watch – URWERK

So, there you have it – this rounds out our Top 10 picks for Only Watch 2023 with what we think are the most unique creations put forward by each brand participating this year. If you’re wanting to check out more of each Lot, then head to onlywatch.com/collection for the full collection. And if you missed Part 1 on our Top 10 picks, then check it out here.

TAG Heuer continues it run of form with its latest piece, with the newly released Carrera Skipper, adding to it’s already impressive 60 years of Carrera collection. The Skipper may be a surprise release for some, as TAG Heuer’s links to sailing aren’t as well known as other brands out there. So for those that are thinking this, here’s a quick bit of history for you.

Back in the 1940s, high-end sporting goods supplier Abercrombie and Fitch began commissioning Heuer to produce A & F-branded watches to sell in its New York stores. The first was the Solunar that displayed tide times and which, in the 1950s, led to the creation of the more sophisticated Seafarer and Mareographe chronographs.

Fast forward to the late 1960s, and it was Jack Heuer’s close friendship with the Abercrombie and Fitch’s president Walter Haynes that led to Heuer becoming the official timing partner of the America’s Cup boat ‘Intrepid’ – the 12-metre U.S. yacht that was to defend the trophy for the New York Yacht Club against challenger Dame Pattie, from the Royal Sydney Yacht Squadron.

Intrepid went on to win the event by a decisive four races to nil, and in celebration Jack Heuer produced the Skipper chronograph in 1968 with a 30-minute subdial that was adapted to count-down the 15-minute regatta ‘pre-start in three, five-minute segments.

Each of these segments was a different colour, with vivid orange being used to alert the crew to the fact that there was just five minutes to go; green to represent the colour of the boat’s rigging and light teal to replicate the colour of Intrepid’s deck. The original design of this was based on the Carrera case and only about 300 watches were ever made, and today, if you can find one of these, they are worth in excess of $100,000.

The Skipper was discontinued in 1983, and today, 40 years later, TAG Heuer have bought it back, using the same Carrera Glassbox design as the 39mm Carrera Chronograph released at Watches and Wonders this year, which is fitting given how the original 1968 version came about.

When you compare the original vintage piece to the new 2023 model, you can see how TAG have stayed true to the classic, but designed this for a modern day customer. The look and feel is the same, with the deep blue dial and 2 subdials to display the 12 hour counter and 15 minute regatta countdown timer.

We had the chance to get hands on with the new Skipper last week ahead of it’s launch, and also had the privilege of handling one of the 300 originals thanks to TAG Heuer’s Global Heritage Director, Nicholas Beibuyck, whom we got to spend an evening with alongside of a group of TAG Heuer collectors and fans in Melbourne, and discussing all things TAG Heuer and the Carrera Skipper over coffee the next morning. More on that talk in an article very shortly!

The new TAG Heuer Skipper pays tribute to the original by keeping the colour tones true to the OG, with the teal on the 12 hour register matching the deck of the Intrepid and the15-minute regatta counter having segments in Intrepid teal, Lagoon Green (the colour of the boat’s rigging and Regatta Orange to alert the crew to the fact the races is about the start.

The blue dial is finished in a brushed sunray circular pattern, similar to the Blue Carrera Glassbox (which we reviewed here), representing the colour of the ocean. The new version however deviates from the original by adding the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock inset with the date window.

Other features drawn from the historic watch include the prominent, triangle shaped markers positioned at five- minute intervals around the outer curved flange, the bright orange central seconds hand and the inclusion of the ‘Skipper’ name at the base of the 12-hour counter.

To give the Skipper the ability to use the regatta countdown timer, TAG Heuer has modified it’s Calibre TH20-00 movement and created the TH20-06. The movement is still equipped with a bi-direction rotor that powers movement and gives it an 80 hour power reserve, but the the ability to accurately time and countdown.

Final Thoughts

Just like our assessment of the Glassbox, TAG have made the new Skipper easily legible and sporty. The 100m Water Resistance may not be needed for an racing timer, unless that race is a regatta and your vehicle is a racing yacht, so this will come in handy if used in the sport it’s meant to. If not, the blue fabric strap means it’s super versatile on land and ready for when you want to head to the beach, pool, or jump into the blue waters of The Med from the deck of your boat should you be that lucky!

It’s no secret that TAG Heuer are pushing forward with their designs that are vintage inspired and as the 60th anniversary of the Carrera continues, we can expect to see more – or at least our fingers are crossed! The new Carrera Skipper takes all the great elements of the current 39mm Carrera Glassbox and adapted it, like they did in 1968, to create a good looking, great wearing colourful regatta timing chronograph.

Reference: CBS2213.FN6002

Specification:

• Case: 39mm / 46mm lug to lug
• Thickness: 13.9mm thick (including crystal)
• Case Material: Steel brushed and polished case
• Case back: Steel screw-down sapphire case back
• Dial: Circular brushed blue dial. Rhodium plated hands, applied indices with Super-LumiNova®
• Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment
• Water resistance:100m / 10bar
• Movement: In-house Calibre TH20-06 Automatic. 28,800 vph (4hz) pivoting on 33 Jewels
• Power reserve: 80 Hours
• Strap: Blue material strap with fine brushed and polished steel folding clasp with double safety push-buttons

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $9,800

Availability: Available now through all TAG Heuer boutiques and online at tagheuer.com

I was out the supermarket checkout a week or so ago, and there was a young guy serving me. On his wrist was a Tissot PRX. I casually said, “Nice watch” and he went on to explain that it was his first watch, and was the quartz model, not automatic. Now Tissot is a great first watch, in fact, the Tissot PRS200 was my first swiss watch, and as a first watch when in your teens, you could do a lot worse than a PRX!

We spoke briefly whilst he scanned the groceries and I told him what I did, so he asked me – what would be my recommendation for a first proper automatic swiss watch? The answer to this is long and varied as there are a lot of great pieces out there now and at all different price points. But it did get me thinking. If I were back at the start of my journey, knowing what I know now with what is available on the market today, what would I choose as my foray into the watch collecting world?

After much discussion with the Watch Advice team, we’ve come up with some great options at different price points as we realise that people are all different with different levels of income and stages of life. What an 18 year old would buy for their first ‘good’ watch vs someone in their 30’s who wants to celebrate a milestone with their first nice timepiece they’ll keep forever will vary greatly. Let’s dive in!

Under $500

Seiko Solar – SNE525P

The Seiko Solar SNE525P is a great starter watch. It’s solar powered, or powered by any light really, so as long as you wear it in the day, you’re good and won’t run out of battery for up to 10 months once fully charged!

With an accuracy of +/-15 seconds per month, it’s more accurate than most mechanical watches out there and with both day and date indicators it’s highly functional too. Measuring 40mm and only 9.7mm thick it will wear well and has a classic steel sports watch design with the blue dial, so it won’t date easily.

Australian Retail Price: AUD $475.

Available at Seikoboutique.com.au

$500-$1000

Baltic HMS 002

Baltic are going from strength to strength with their vintage inspired pieces due to their build quality and design at their price point, and the HMS 002 is no exception. With a 38mm case size and 12mm thick, its more dress watch than sports, but it’s design means you can wear this casually. You also have the option of choosing the preferred strap and open or closed caseback to fit your style.

Made from 316L steel, 50m water resistance, a screw down crown and an automatic movement with 60hrs power reserve, it’s a great all round watch.

Australian Retail Price: Approx AUD $725 (€360 + €80 delivery)

Available at baltic-watches.com

$1000 – $1500

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80

We mentioned the Tissot PRX Quartz at the start of this article, but if you can stretch the budget to just over $1000, then the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 is a great value watch that punches above its weight.

With an integrated bracelet design and great sturdy construction and nice finishing, it rivals watches 3x it’s price. It has Tissot’s new Powermatic 80 movement, meaning you’re good for more than 3 days and with the Nivachron balance spring, it’s essentially antimagnetic.

Australian Retail Price: AUD $1,100.

Available at tissotwatches.com

$1500 – $2500

Longines Hydroconquest

For those that want the look of a proper dive watch, then the Longine Hydroconquest in 41mm is a great entry level diver. 300m water resistance, rotating dive bezel, and steel bracelet with fold out dive extension, it’s a robust watch.

Longines has a lot of heritage in watchmaking, and whilst they’re not a hype brand, they are a solid brand with solid credentials, and this watch is an example of this. With the L888 automatic movement, 72 hours of power reserve and screw down crown, it’s a serious watch and great bang for buck.

Australian Retail Price: AUD $2,100.

Available at Longines.com

$2500 – $5000

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200

We’ve covered the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 last year in our hands on review, which you can read here. It’s a good entry level piece into a reputable brand that has so much history and are doing some great things today. At 40mm and only 12mm thick it wears pretty well and with a few new colours, like the green fumé dial pictured here, they look good.

It’s a highly versatile watch with 200m of water resistance and an automatic movement giving you 38hrs power reserve. Whilst that seems low, it’s designed to be a daily, so you shouldn’t have to worry the watch going dead. It also has a bright green and blue lume, so it’s highly legible in low light, adding to its versatility.

Australian Retail Price: AUD $4,150.

Available at Tagheuer.com

So there you have five watches to start your watch journey, no matter what your budget is. Whilst there a lots of others out there that would suit equally as well, too many in fact for this article, we felt these five would suit most people’s tastes and are all pretty versatile. Should you have more than $5000 saved up for your first watch, then congratulations! But this then would be another conversation.

Do you agree with these selections? Have suggestions for people? The leave us a comment below.

Max Verstappen’s victory at the Monaco Circuit culminates a successful racing weekend for the young Dutchman. Following a fierce competition with Ferando Alonso, Max crossed the finish line in first place, cementing his place in racing history. The Oracle Red Bull Racing Team and their longstanding partners and iconic racing figure in the Principality, TAG Heuer, celebrate yet another remarkable achievement.

The Monaco Grand Prix is widely regarded as the pinnacle of the Formula 1 calendar, and one of the most challenging races across the year. With its narrow streets, sharp turns, and high-speed straights, the circuit demands precision, skill, and nerves of steel. As the Official Watch of the Monaco Grand Prix since 2011, TAG Heuer is thrilled to have Max Verstappen conquer this legendary track and bring home the trophy.

“Winning the Monaco Grand Prix is a dream come true for any driver, and we are incredibly proud of Max Verstappen for achieving this remarkable 2nd victory,” said Frédéric Arnault, CEO of TAG Heuer. “This victory is a testament to the hard work, dedication, and talent that our team embodies, and we are honored to be a part of this historic moment in racing with our partner, the Oracle Red Bull Racing Team.”

Max Verstappen, the two-time Formula 1 champion, showcased his remarkable achievements and dedication with the perfect companion on his wrist – his personalized TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton dial timepiece in blue. The striking red number “1” boldly displayed on the dial emphasizes his status as Formula 1’s top driver, while the engraved caseback with the words “One of one” showcases the watch’s exclusivity. Furthermore, the presence of two stars symbolizing Verstappen’s championship victories solidifies his stature in the sport. This extraordinary timepiece reflects his commitment to excellence, aligning perfectly with his unwavering pursuit of victory.

Released for the Monaco Grand Prix, which you can read about here, the new TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton dial watches sees a new chapter for the TAG Heuer Monaco, more than half a century after its inception. The collection introduces three new models with a skeleton design, showcasing the watch’s movement for the first time.

Each piece in the new collection draws its inspiration from different places and era’s that have helped to embody what TAG Heuer and Monaco stand for. “Original Blue”, “Racing Red”, and “Turquoise” all embody TAG Heuer’s disruptive legacy and cutting-edge technology, using a combination of materials, including grade 2 titanium for a lightweight but robust look and finish. In addition, each model showcases ‘carved’ indices filled with Super-LumiNova® when lit up at night, give the wearer a futuristic light show, which also includes the date window at 6 o’clock – another first for the brand.

Max Verstappen’s victory at the Monaco Grand Prix marks TAG Heuer’s commitment to supporting the world’s best drivers and pushing the boundaries of what’s possible in motorsports. The tailored timepiece encapsulates Max Verstappen’s relentless pursuit of excellence, embodying TAG Heuer’s DNA. Together, they form a symbiotic partnership that fuels success and serves as a powerful symbol of their shared commitment to pushing boundaries and achieving greatness.

When you think of TAG Heuer, there are probably 2 iconic models that come to mind, and both are deeply associated with racing. One is the Carrera, the other, is the Monaco – made famous by Steve McQueen in the 1971 film “Le Mans” and ever since, has been synonymous with racing.

Unveiled in 1969, it was unique and bold at the time, a racing chronograph in a square case featuring the Calibre 11, which was the first Chronograph to be offered to the public and totally unique. Whilst it has has many evolutions and iterations across the years from materials to colour variants, the one thing has remined true – the iconic case and look!

Today, TAG Heuer celebrates the 2023 Monaco Grand Prix with the launch of three unique Monaco timepieces. Each with their own style, but all deeply showcasing their brand and model DNA. This time however, TAG Heuer have given them the Skeletonised treatment, a first for the Monaco collection – showcasing the heart of the classic piece.

The modern skeleton watch comes in three different dials, “Original Blue”, “Racing Red”, and “Turquoise”, all uncovering a soon-to-be iconic open work. These timepieces were designed to offer an avant-garde interpretation of the racing universe, featuring a vibrant contemporary style intended to resonate with collectors and the youth alike. And at the first glance, I will say, these are cool timepieces that I immediately gravitated towards.

Each piece in the new collection draws its inspiration from different places and era’s that have helped to embody what TAG Heuer and Monaco stand for.

The “Original Blue” draws inspiration from the first-ever TAG Heuer Monaco blue dial. The blue and red colours are featured on the dial, the blue on the column wheel and the oscillating mass engravings – an overall design paying homage to the TAG Heuer Monaco 1969 and its original success.

The “Racing Red” nods to the racing DNA of the TAG Heuer Monaco, with the colour red often referencing the racing sparks made on the tracks. The black and silver colour touches are especially noticeable on the dial, along with the red column wheel and red engravings being visible on the oscillating mass, which completes the racing-inspired feel.

The “Turquoise” piece is the third watch to round-off the collection, offering a fresh and avant-garde take on TAG Heuer’s Monaco design. The engaging turquoise, a little nod to Monaco’s coastline and the red colour can be seen specifically on the dial, with the turquoise also being sported on the column wheel and on the engravings of the oscillating mass – which makes this watch definitely stand out from other iconic timepieces.

Each of the pieces are powered by TAG Heuer’s Heuer 02 movement, boasting an 80 hour power reserve from a single barrel and column wheel chronograph mechanism visible through each of the watches see through case backs, complete with engraved oscillating wheel.

The new skeleton Monaco editions are set apart via their open-worked dials, and using a combination of materials, including grade 2 titanium for a lightweight but robust look and finish. In addition, each model showcases ‘carved’ indices filled with Super-LumiNova® when lit up at night, give the wearer a futuristic light show, which also includes the date window at 6 o’clock – another first for the brand.

To add to the comfort of the watch, TAG Heuer have given each piece a bi-material strap; combining both rubber and leather for maximum comfort, durability and giving each a sporty look and adding to the racing style of each.

Final Thoughts

The Monaco is maybe the most iconic of all TAG Heuer’s and one that has immense heritage for the brand. These new skeletonised pieces add just another option for those wanting a more unique watch with character and style and with the use of the grade 2 Titanium, a modern interpretation of a classic!

If you’re more the classic lover, then the “Red Racing” will be for you. Want more modern and sporty, the “Original Blue” will suit, even thought this harks back to the 1969 prototype. And for those wanting a little more edge, the all black “Turquoise” piece is part Dark Lord and part Bamford, but all Heuer!

Specification

Reference: CBL2182.FT6235 (Original Blue) / CBL2183.FT6236 (Racing Red) / CBL2184.FT6236 (Turquoise)

• Case: 39mm, 47.4mm lug to lug
• Thickness: 14.7mm thick
• Case Material: Titanium grade 2 sandblasted case / black DLC coated
• Case back: Grade 2 Ti with sapphire crystal case back
• Dial: Blue or Black sandblasted dial, Rhodium plated TAG HEUER applied logo, 6 o’clock date with blue Super-LumiNova® and Machined white or torquoise lacquered indexes with blue Super-LumiNova®
• Crystal: Beveled, domed sapphire crystal
• Water resistance:100m / 10bar
• Movement: Calibre HEUER 02 Automatic Column Wheel Chronograph
• Power reserve: 80 Hours
• Strap: Embossed black or blue calf skin & rubber strap. Sandblasted titanium grade 2 folding clasp with double safety pushbuttons: TAG Heuer shield

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $15,550 AUD (Blue & Red) $16,300 AUD (Black/Turquoise)

Availability: Available now from all TAG Heuer Boutiques and online at tagheuer.com

The birth of the GMT watch came during the era in which commercial airlines first started overseas travel. During the “Jet Age” aircraft powered by jet turbines allowed for social and cultural changes, where the public was able to for the first time have international travel. One of the problems that arose with international travel was jet lag and the fact that pilots were losing track of time back in their home country. GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time, and is time zone zero against which all other timezones are measured against, also referred to as UTC (Coordinated Universal Time).

The first GMT watch that was ever created to fix the issue of two time zones was the Glycine Airman in 1953. This timepiece was designed to specifically meet the pilots requirements of being able to tell two different times, which is why the dial at the time of creation looked so unorthodox. First the dial had a 24-hour scale instead of the traditional 12-hour. This would display the local time. The bezel then featured another 24-hour scale, which would be used to tell the second timezone. While the Glycine Airman was certainly the first, they didn’t get the attention they deserved as the watch never caught on.

This is where Rolex would come in, and was one of the first brands to step in and develop a watch to display two timezones with the traditional 12-hour dial. Having already mastered different feats such as making a watch functional at deep sea levels and also at high altitudes prior to this, the brand was certainly up to the task. The watch they envisioned and ultimately created in 1954, became an icon. A design that is still used to this day for their modern GMT watches.

The Rolex GMT-Master Pan Am built in 1954 came with a Pepsi-coloured bezel and a red arrow-tipped GMT hand. As the name suggests this timepiece was designed specifically for Pan American World Airway’s pilots as they crossed multiple timezones. With the addition of the red GMT hand, pilots were able to distinguish two separate time zones at once.

How exactly does the GMT function work?

The GMT function on a watch is a relatively simple one to use. To use a GMT function, the watch first needs to have a 24-hour scale in which the second (or third) time zone can be read from. A GMT timepiece will come with a 24-hour scale on either the dial itself (usually along the minute track) or as markings on the bezel.

The GMT function is used by having the GMT hand read the second timezone in 24-hour format. For example, say we are in Brisbane where the time is 7:00 am, and we have family in Singapore where the time is 5:00 am, the GMT hand would simply need to be adjusted to meet 5:00 am on the 24-hour scale on the bezel or dial scale (if it exists). If both the bezel and dial 24-hour scales are shown, then a 3rd timezone can be read.

A 3rd timezone is read straight from the bezel as it’s the only timescale that can be adjusted. As the second timezone can be read from the dial’s timescale. Using the example above, if we had friends in Geneva, the time would be 11.00 pm (relative to 7:00 am Brisbane time). Without moving the GMT hand, as it is set up to read the second timezone through the dial’s 24-hour timescale, the bezel would be adjusted so that the GMT hand would read 11:00 pm.

For ease of use, the local time needs to be shown on the main dial, with the second and third time zones being shown by the GMT function. Having a second-time zone (or third) can come in real handy not just for knowing the time back home or time where you’re family/friends are residing. It can also be used for knowing for example the market opening of the overseas stock market. Another practical use is as business to know when your overseas suppliers/operations are opening, or when your international client wants to set a meeting for a certain time. All this can be done by a quick glance at a GMT watch, provided it is set up correctly initially.

TAG Heuer Carrera Date 36mm

TAG Heuer’s new Carrera Ladies range hits the spot perfectly. With a range of colours in silver, green blue or pink (shown here), you’ll be able to find something that suits her perfectly, and compliments her personality.

The 36mm Carrera is water-resistant to 50 metres, has a domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment and is fully automatic, meaning no battery changes ever. At AUD $4,600 these are great value!

Head to tagheuer.com to check this model out and more!

Longines Primaluna

For a more elegant watch, the Longines Primaluna is a great choice. At 34mm and only 10mm thick, it’s a perfect watch to wear every day, or for special occasions. Being a quartz movement, this is a reasonable AUD $2,450, and is great bang for buck.

In addition, you get a stunning Mother Of Pearl dial, date function and moonphase indicator plus diamond set hour indices. What more could a girl ask for?

Head to Longines.com for the full collection

Omega Constellation 18k Rose Gold Earrings

Maybe she’s got enough watches, but you still want to spoil her. Omega has your answer. With a range of jewellery to match their women’s watch range, you’ll find something she loves.

Like this pair of 18k Rose Gold Earrings, from their Constellation range. Coming in at AUD $1,825 these are unique and timeless, a little like Omega’s Constellation Watch Collection.

Check out the full Omega Jewellery range here.

Caroline Jewellery Box by WOLF

If you’re into watches, you’re not doubt familiar with WOLF and their collection of winders, boxes and travel rolls. But they also have a great collection of jewellery boxes, storage trays and travel cases for women.

Like the “Caroline” jewellery storage box with drawers in a range of colours. Each feature 15 compartments, 7 ring rolls and travel case with 3 compartments and 4 ring rolls. Plus it has special material that absorbs the gases that causes tarnishing, keeping all the precious metals like new. At AUD $679, it’s great value and will last!

For the full range, click here

TISSOT Bellissima Small Lady

If you’re not wanting to spend $7000+ on the new Chopard Happy Sport with the wrap around “Double Tour” strap, then the TISSOT Bellissima Small Lady may be a great affordable alternative.

At $625 it won’t break the bank, and you get a similar look to the Chopard, albeit, without the diamonds. But that’s ok as you still get a Mother Of Pearl dial with roman indices with a date function, domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with antireflective coating and all wrapped up in 26mm case that’s only 7mm thick.

To view the full TISSOT Bellissima collection, click here

So, there you have 5 great watch and watch related gifts that says “I Love You!” for Mum, or whomever the special lady is in your life. If you like these, or end up buying one, drop us a line in the comments section below. HAPPY HOTHER’S DAY!