A little over a week ago, the Watch Advice team sat down to look at all 62 Lots that will make up this year’s Only Watch – the charitable auction that raises money for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy – a disease affecting 1 in 3500 boys that progressively weakens all their muscles, including the heart, the loss of the ability to walk and global autonomy as they get older. 

We selected 10 pieces that were the most unique, those pieces that we felt the brands who made them pushed the boundaries in terms of either out of the box thinking, or something very different in design or materials to what they would normally do. If you missed our first article, then you can read Our Top 10 Picks For Only Watch 2023: Part 1 here. Now, onto part 2!

Lot 39 – Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata

Why We Love It

Louis Vuitton have been doing some out there pieces recently, remember the Tambour Opera Automata released earlier this year? LV’s high watchmaking via their La Fabrique du Temps is out there, and this piece is no exception. It incorporates a lot of artisanal techniques such as the micro-sculpture and grisaille enamel on the dial, and depicts the likeness of Albert Einstein in one of his most notorious photographic and mischievous portraits, sticking his tongue out in an unexpected moment of levity.

Being part of their Automata collection, it has the LV 525 calibre Automata mechanism featuring 4 animations, jumping hours, retrograde minutes and power reserve indicator so you can see how much of the 100 hours you have left!

Full Details: Only Watch – Louis Vuitton

Lot 41 – Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece

Why We Love It

Maurice Lacroix normally play in the mid range luxury segment and not normally a brand you would think producing a skeletonised hand-wound movement in a completely clear, hand finished sapphire case and crown. The movement also showcases the Only Watch 2023 colours across the off-centre dial’s periphery and indices, and on the bridges and plates.

This style of watch and the techniques used are a first for the brand, showcasing Maurice Lacroix pushing their boundaries here. The open-worked design allows the wearer to see the regulating organ, the mainspring in various states of tension, the gear train and even the keyless works. This puts Maurice Lacroix into the realms of high horology!

Full Details: Only Watch – Maurice Lacroix

Lot 55 – TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds

Why We Love It

The Monaco isn’t a new watch for TAG Heuer, it’s a classic. But what this watch is, is a first on many levels for TAG Heuer. The new TH81-00 is a first for TAG – an automatic split-seconds chronograph, is one of the most complicated chronograph complications on the market today. This is housed in a re-designed case inspired by the original 1969 model, but this time TAG Heuer have constructed it from texturised Titanium, designed and made in-house at the TAG Heuer Institute. Oh, and the movement, it’s also titanium!

This watch has been two years in development and showcases that TAG Heuer is really starting to look to both its past and future when it come to it’s watches, not just high level pieces. Well done TAG Heuer!

Full Details: Only Watch – TAG Heuer

Lot 58 – Tudor Prince Chronograph One

Why We Love It

This a little left of field this one. The Tudor Prince isn’t in the current Tudor line up, but it was up until 2000. For Only Watch 2023, Tudor has gone back in time to 1976 and brought the Tudor Prince Chronograph back to life, updating it substantially for 2023. This time, the brand has gone out on a limb and created their Only Watch version in full 18k yellow gold, compete with the oyster bracelet and patented T-fit clasp.

The chronograph movement is first for the brand however, with a brand new MT59XX prototype chronograph calibre built from the ground up and fully in-house. With a -2/+4 secs per day accuracy and their standard 70hr power reserve, this is a movement you will start to see filtering down eventually to the Black Bay Chrono, or maybe a re-birth of a classic is in store?

Full Details: Only Watch – Tudor

Lot 60 – URWERK Space-Time Blade

Why We Love It

We love this because, well it’s just cool. The Space-Time Blade is a 1.67m tall clock that tell the time with hours, minutes and seconds, and in addition, tracks the speed of the Earth’s rotation through space. This links nicely back to their watch pieces, like their UR-100 with the revolving satellite display and distance travelled on Earth and distance travelled by Earth.

The tube is made in collaboration with Dalibor Farny, the company behind the Nixie Tube clocks, which this consists of eight individual tubes in the blade, and connects to the bronze pedestal. This is one piece that would look great in the corner at night, with each tube emitting an orange glow.

Full Details: Only Watch – URWERK

So, there you have it – this rounds out our Top 10 picks for Only Watch 2023 with what we think are the most unique creations put forward by each brand participating this year. If you’re wanting to check out more of each Lot, then head to onlywatch.com/collection for the full collection. And if you missed Part 1 on our Top 10 picks, then check it out here.

Tudor has a long history with sporting partnerships, from events, to teams to individual sports stars. It makes sense, as sporting endeavours are quite often time bound, be it a football match or a racing event, timekeeping is inextricably interwoven into it. Furthering these sporting partnerships, Tudor has just lunched two new Pelagos FXD models in partnership with the Alinghi Red Bull Racing Team.

The time only and chronograph versions of the new Tudor Pelagos FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition pieces are designed with the AC75 boat and crew in mind, even down to the materials and aesthetics, all aligned with the Alinghi Red Bull Racing America’s Cup 75 boat.

The America’s Cup is one of the hardest and high stakes sailing races in the world, and this year, the Alinghi Red Bull Racing team are competing for their chance to take home the cup in the 37th running of the America’s Cup. Due to the competitive nature of the sport, the AC75 has to be at the cutting edge of design and technology, and as such, Tudor in the same vein has taken on board this spirit with their watches.

Both the chronograph and time only watches have cases that are comprised of a high-tech carbon composite, a first for TUDOR, with titanium and stainless steel, just like on an AC75 (America’s Cup 75) hydrofoil racing yacht. Each watch has titanium for the bezel, crown and direct-action pushers on the chronograph version, plus utilises 316L stainless steel for the case back and movement container. It’s also the first time TUDOR has integrated a chronograph calibre into a fixed strap-bars case.

Both pieces feature a bi-directional 120-notch rotatable bezel that utilizes Swiss Super-LumiNova® Grade X1, a luminous material showing a performance increase of up to 60% after two hours compared to standard grades. Both Tudor and bigger sister, Rolex, are known for their lume, and it’s good to see that the new Pelagos won’t disappoint in this area. The bezels are also graduated in big bold numerals and minute markers that countdown, essential for regatta timing.

Tudor also go beyond the materials with this partnership. Both pieces are perfectly themed to partner with the Alinghi Red Bull Racing team with aesthetic cues throughout the case, dial and strap. The matte dial is the same blue as the AC75’s hull, the Alinghi Red Bull Racing Team’s colours. Furthering this, the rings on the sub-dial counters and the main seconds hand are red, matching the red stripe on the AC75’s hull and on the 45^o rehaut ALINGHI RED BULL RACING is inscribed.

Inside the two watches beats both the Manufacture Calibre MT5602 in the time only, the same movement found in the standard FXD, and in the chronograph, the Manufacture Calibre MT5813, the base movement being the Calibre Breitling 01 Chronograph as part of the long term partnership between the two brands. Both movements are COSC and tested beyond this to be accurate to -2/+4 seconds per day when fully cased. Both also boast a 70 hour power reserve, perfect for those that want to put it down on a Friday and pick it back up on Monday morning.

Both watches are a wearable 42mm for the time only and 43mm for the Chronograph, and being made from carbon-composite, titanium and steel, plus the fabric strap, will wear light on the wrist. For those of you that have tried the standard Pelagos FXD on with know what we are talking about here.

Final Thoughts

The new Tudor Pelagos FXD Alinghi Reb Bull Racing Editions are good looking sports watches and like the original FXD, will wear well and light. However, we’ll reserve final judgement until we’ve had the chance to really test them out in person, but on the surface and on paper, are a good offering.

Both pieces are 200m water resistance, and come Tudor’s standard 5 year warranty, so if you’re in the market for these, you can be sure they’re backed by the brand and like all Tudor tool watches, able to handle whatever you throw at them. Even if you’re not into sailing, these watches will look good on when out and about on the weekend or in the office, however it would be a shame to keep a piece like this on dry land for too long!

Reference: M25707KN (Time Only) / M25807KN (Chronograph)

Specification

• Case: 42mm (Time only) / 43mm (Chronograph)
• Case Material: Black carbon composite case with matte finish and Alinghi Red Bull Racing logo engraved on the case back
• Dial: Blue, matte (Time only), Blue Matte, red accents on the chronograph counters (Chronograph)
• Crystal: Flat sapphire crystal
• Water Resistance: 200m (20BAR)
• Movement: Manufacture Calibre MT5602 (Time only) / Manufacture Calibre MT5813 Self-winding mechanical chronograph movement. Both with bidirectional rotor system and COSC certified, accurate to -2/+4s per day.
• Power Reserve: 70 hours
• Strap: Single piece 22 mm “Team Blue” jacquard-woven ribbon with red accents and a titanium “D” buckle with a self-gripping fastening system

Availability: For availability and delivery, see your local Tudor Boutique or Authorised Dealer. For more information, head to Tudorwatch.com

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $5,190 (Time Only) / AUD $7,190 (Chronograph)

A few months ago, Tudor released a new variant of the Tudor Black Bay GMT with a white dial, which you can read about here, but personally, I didn’t love the white dial on this watch. The black dial “Pepsi” configuration, The OG looks better in my opinion, which made me think why, and then made me think – maybe I should write about it in this next Owners Perspective article.

Having never owned a GMT, and les face it, over 2020 and 2021, I’ve not needed one as I’ve not really gone anywhere thanks to COVID. But with the world opening up again early last year, and with a few family holidays planned combined with an itch for a new watch, I decided to take the plunge and get a Tudor Black Bay GMT. Why? Having owned a Black Bay Heritage 41 with the blue bezel and loving that up ’til we parted ways, I felt the need to jump back into Tudor again. That and a Rolex Pepsi or Batman wasn’t on the cards for me so it was then next best alternative in my eyes.

And what’s not to love? A nice wearing 41mm GMT that’s COSC, has vintage styling going back to the original GMT’s of the late 50’s and costing under $6,000 AUD at the time, it was a no brainer. Plus it was available and a great alternative to the Rolex that everyone lusts after, so for me, at a third of the price, was a great way to get into a similar styled GMT to see if it’s something that resonated with me or not. Thankfully, it did!

The Design

I’ve heard people talk about how chunky the Tudor GMT is on the wrist. Compared to it’s bigger cousin, yes it’s a little more chunky due to it’s thickness, but also the case design. The Tudor Black Bay range is known for this, especially in the 41mm versions and whilst not overly thick, their ‘slab sides’ with high polish does give it more of a solid, bigger look. Personally, having worn bigger watches for a lot of my life, this aspect I actually liked as it gave you the sense of wearing a watch with great wrist presence, but without the heft of one.

As mentioned earlier, the styling of the Black Bay GMT is vintage, as is with the whole Tudor Black Bay range. It harks back to the 50’s when both Tudor and Rolex were bringing out Subs with the riveted bracelet, aluminium bezel insert and highly legible dials. The GMT was just a variation of this, and when you compare this new GMT version to some of the first GMT’s like the Rolex GMT 6542, you can see the lineage here.

The dial is very clean and easy to read, and like all Tudor Black Bays, a lot of lume in the hands and the indices so very easy to read in low light or at night. Being a tool watch type of person, this one element I do look for in the watches that I buy for myself. I like to know that if I’m wearing it, I can be in any situation and have on a watch that will do the job. The Tudor GMT doesn’t disappoint in this area.

The bracelet design of the Black Bay line is one element that has polarised the watch community since the original Black Bay was released in 2012. You either loved the look, or hated it. My personal opinion is it makes sense based on the design, and the watch it was designed from. A vintage inspired watch that’s a modern re-interpretation should have these style cues. If not, it’s not really paying homage to the original version.

Overall, the construction is solid. the case feels like it can take a beating, and the bracelet it designed to wear like a typical Oyster styled bracelet. The clasp is again solid, with a safety catch so it won’t open accidently and isn’t too large, so it sits fairly flush to the wrist. The one small criticism I would have is that is doesn’t have the ability to be adjusted on the fly, like it’s Rolex cousins with the easy-link extension or Glidelock, or the new Black Bay released this year wit the “T-fit” clasp. It does however have the holes for the adjustment, but again, at around $6,000 this isn’t a deal breaker at all.

The date function for me personally is a deal breaker on a watch, given I use it a lot. It’s the one downside to the standard Black Bay, and the GMT rectifies this. Tudor have kept the date window in the more traditional 3 o’clock position, but the size and the white colour wheel means it does balance the dial out opposite the 9 o’clock baton without being overbearing.

How It Wears

The Tudor GMT wears incredibly well. It was one aspect I was very surprised with when it came to my first Tudor Black Bay. Putting it on the wrist, it sits flush due to the flat case back, and very little protrusion of the crewed in case back. Due to the slab sides and high polish, the GMT can wear slightly larger than a standard 41mm watch, and at 14mm thick, it’s not super slim. But this is one aspect that I liked coming from larger watches and transitioning into smaller case sizes.

I have a 17.5cm wrist normally, and to be honest, the Tudor GMT looked about the perfect size on my wrists. 41mm for me is my Goldilocks zone, not too big, not too small – just right. And I feel that this will work well for people who have wrists that go down to about 16cm, or even larger wrist sizes due to the thickness.

Whilst the clasp doesn’t have an on the go micro adjust as mentioned earlier, it does have the adjustable holes. So if you’re like me with a wrist that changes sizes in summer and winter, you just need to size the bracelet so it’s comfortable in either season and leave the right amount of holes to go up or down in size and make those adjustments for hotter or cooler weather.

Coming back to what I said at the start of the article, this is a great watch for travelling, be it interstate with time zone changes, or overseas. The Tudor GMT was actually perfect for me in this instance, as you can dress it up or down. With 200m water resistance as well, it just works brilliantly if you’re going on a beach or tropical holiday. You can put it on in the morning, wear around all day, and still head out at night and still looks the part. A true one watch collection for your trip!

The Movement

Inside the Tudor GMT is the Manufacture Tudor Calibre MT5652, which is COSC rated movement with GMT function and date. Tudor have improved leaps and bounds in their movements over the last 10 years, and this shows, especially with their latest Black Bay being METAS certified as well, now rivalling Omega in this department. Whilst the OG Black Bay GMT isn’t quite this accurate (yet), it still keeps pretty good time, in fact, probably one of the most accurate watches I’ve owned in recent years.

The GMT’s did have an issue a few years back with the date function skipping, but this was rectified in about 2020. Any GMT’s bought after this didn’t have this issue, and I’ve not experienced any problems in this regard either. This is one drawback with an in house movement that’s still in it’s early years, however Tudor to it’s credit jumped on this and now owners can rest easy.

Final Thoughts

Having owned the Tudor GMT for about 12 months, I’ve been able to put it through its paces in many scenarios and locations. It’s just a good tool watch in every sense of the word and if it was the only watch I owned, I would be quite comfortable with it on my wrist each day. It’s the one ethos I follow when buying a watch, if it was the only watch I owned, would I be happy wearing it each day.

At 41mm and 14mm thick, it’s not a small watch, but by the same token, it’s not overly large either and wears extremely well. The design is classic, and being a steel sports watch, pairs with almost anything really and has the versatility of going from the beach to the boardroom, so makes a great daily wearer.

Like all brands, the GMT has gone up in price now to $6,090 AUD, but still represents great value for a steel sports watch, with the GMT function, date, 200m WR, screw down crown and vintage good looks! If you’re toying with the idea of a GMT, then I would highly recommend the Tudor GMT as your entry point, or depending on your budget, as your next everyday watch.

Reference: M79830RB-0001

Specification

• Size: 41mm, 14mm thick, 50mm lug to lug
• Case: stainless steel case with polished and satin finish
• Bezel: 48-notch bidirectional rotating bezel in stainless steel with 24-hours graduated matt burgundy/blue anodised aluminium disc
• Crown: Screw-down crown, with the TUDOR rose in relief, with circular satin-brushed steel winding crown tube
• Dial: Domed black dial
• Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal
• Movement: Manufacture Calibre MT5652 (COSC), Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system. Anti-magnetic silicon balance spring, vibrating at 4Hz / 28,800 vph.
• Water Resistance: Waterproof to 200m (660 ft)
• Bracelet: Three-link stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finish

Availability: Available at all Authorised Dealers, Tudor Boutiques or online at Tudor.com

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: $6,090 (on steel)

The GADA Watch – Go Anywhere, Do Anything Watch is a term that’s been popping up a little bit lately in both the press and across multiple forums. So it got us thinking, do people know what it is, do they have one themselves, and what are some great options if you’re looking for a watch that is truly Go Anywhere, Do Anything?

The Go Anywhere, Do Anything watch. Sounds like a myth, or maybe just a new term for the “One Watch Collection” which is more probable. But essentially, it’s what the name says – a watch that you can go anywhere with (and I mean anywhere) and do anything with it on your wrist.

With a GADA watch, it does need to be versatile and appropriate for many situations or occasions. For this reason, we’ve created a bit of a checklist in terms of what boxes a great GADA watch has to check off:

1. It has to be robust – At least 100m water resistance for any water related adventures, solid case construction and ideally on steel or rubber (leather isn’t great for lots of outdoor activities or climates).
2. It has to look good – This is a Go Anywhere, Do Anything watch don’t forget. So it needs to be at home on the wrist when wearing a suit for those more formal occasions, but equally (see point 1) be worn in casual settings and not look weird in hiking gear or a pair of board shorts.
3. It has to be highly legible – Again, see point 1, but a good GADA watch needs a dial that’s easy to read in the day, and at night. Be it at the beach, hiking in the mountains, out to dinner with friends or camping at 2am when you wonder “what that noise was outside my tent”!
4. It has be the right size – Now this should go without saying, but it’s probably no good having a behemoth on your wrist if you’re going from beach to the boardroom. So for the sake of this exercise, and keeping with the trends today, anything larger than 44mm is a no go, and event then, some 44mm are still too big for many people.
5. It has to be timeless – This is probably a slightly controversial last point, but if you’re going to have a GADA watch for a long while, then it probably needs to stand the test of time. After all, if it doesn’t and trends change in the watch world, which they frequently do, you’ll need to be buying a new GADA watch more frequently than you’d like!

So now that we’ve covered what a great GADA watch should be, let’s explore some options at different price points for a GADA watch should you be in the market for a watch that’s versatile and gets you out of trouble in any situation.

Grand Seiko SBGN027 GMT Quartz

Kicking off, the Grand Seiko SBGN027 GMT Quartz is a great value choice for a GADA watch. It’s got classic looks, reminiscent of a Rolex Explorer II, the GMT function and date for those that travel a lot, and a ridiculously accurate movement, the Calibre 9F86 which is accurate to +/- 10 seconds a year!

The 39mm case is only 12mm think, and has 200m WR with a screw down crown, so it’s robust and easy wearing, plus the black dial and lumed indices make it highly legible anywhere and anytime. Being a smaller sized sports watch, you could dress it up and hide under the cuff if needed.

Australian Recommended RRP: $4,900

Tudor Black Bay 58

Whilst there are a lot of BB58’s now in the range, we’ve chosen the classic BB58 OG with steel bracelet and black dial with the gilt markers.

This ticks all the boxes and for under $6k too. A 200m WR dive watch, looks great on the wrist from suits to the sand, it’s very legible given it’s a dive watch and at 39mm, it wears well on almost anyone and for any occasion. As the BB58 was designed based on the Tudor and Rolex Subs of old, it’s timeless and a modern classic. What more could you want?!

Australian Recommended RRP: $5,590

Omega Seamaster Diver 300

If the Omega Seamaster is good enough for James Bond to wear 24/7, then it stands to reason it should be the perfect GADA watch!

Again another diver (there’s a reason they are so popular in demand), we’ve chose the black dial variant with the black rubber strap as you can dress this up or down, and wear anywhere for anything. It’s as at home in the ocean as it is on the wrist playing Black Jack at the Casino, and with METAS certification, incredibly accurate and highly robust. It checks all the boxes.

Australian Recommended RRP: $8,350 (on rubber strap)

Breitling SuperOcean Heritage

The Breitling SuperOcean Heritage in 2-tone Rose Gold is a slightly different look. Not quite a diver, not quite a dress watch, it’s a nice happy medium that’s designed to take whatever you throw at it.

It’s a good looking watch, and the touch of the Rose Gold makes it perfect for more formal occasions. However on the rubber strap with a push button folding clasp and sliding micro adjust and with 200m WR and screw down crown it’s anything but a formal watch! It wears well at 42mm and on most wrists under the cuff if it isn’t too tight.

Australian Recommended RRP: $9,090

IWC Pilot Chronograph 41

For something a little different, the IWC Pilot’s Chrono 41 is a good option, due to it’s robustness being a pilot watch and the new 100m WR. Combine this with the added day, date and timing functions, the IWC Pilot Chronograph is highly versatile and at 41mm, wears very well.

This particular version is on leather, but with the IWC EasX-CHANGE system, swap this to the blue rubber and you’ve got a great GADA watch option

Australian Recommended RRP: $11,400

You may have noticed we’ve stayed away from Rolex. Most people gravitate towards the Submariner or Explorer for a GADA watch (with good reason) and we felt they were too obvious to include in this article, and lets face it, there’s a wide world of watches out there and whilst we’ve picked 5 GADA watches we think are great options, there’s plenty more we just can’t cover in one article.

Do you agree with these choices? Do you have a great GADA watch? Let us know in the comments section below!

Each year, the watch world waits to see what wonders come out of the industry’s premier trade show. Some years we see brilliance, and others years not so much. I feel that this year was a good year for the watch world, and we saw some really great pieces launched, some cool novelties and some brands just did some nice and timely updates to their core models. And from all reports, it seems that most commentators felt the same. So without further ado, here are my top 12 picks.

Piaget’s Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

Whilst Piaget added two new Perpetual Calendar models to their Polo line, my pick was the Rose gold and green. It just looks great, and builds on their release from earlier in year. At 8.65mm, it’s thin, and a the movement is stunning and complex. which can be seen through there caseback.

The fact that Piaget has also given it the quick change SingleTouch system, to swap out the green alligator or rubber strap just adds to this allowing you change the look, depending on your mood. At AUD $116,000, it’s not cheap, but you get a lot of watch for this!

You can read all about it here.

Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

Panerai went back to their roots this year, and told us their Storia Leggendaria. With this, bringing us the new Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 days) in hand finished eSteel.

Whilst not the most techically impressive, although it is an 8-day manual wind, so this is pretty decent, these are cool looking, and do hark back to their original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Also, each model is hand finished to give it the distressed look, so essentially, all unique!

Check out our write up about it here

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

Jaeger-LeCoultre focused on their Reverso Tribute line this year, and some of their models was absolutely fantastic. One of which was their Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which gives you 2 great watches in one!

Whilst each model looked stunning, my pic was the Pink Gold variant. The way the details contrast on the chronograph face, along with the “floating” look of the dial and bottom register are second to none!

For more on this, click here.

Hermes H08 In Rose Gold & Titanium

The Hermes H08 in Rose Gold and Titanium was a surprise for me. I’m not normally a fan of Hermes watches, but this model, in this combination jut works, and looks both casual, and just a little bit formal – it’s a paradox!

Hermes have used a good mix of Rose gold, titanium and black ceramic, and paired with the black rubber strap and the multi-faceted dial, all works together and is something a little different to the norm.

You can check out our write up on it here

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN “Oceana”

I’m a sucker for a good pilot’s watch, and need to add one back into the collection. And the new IWC Pilot’s Chrono 41mm in Oceana Blue is a hot contender. Although, speaking to the IWC boutique, there’s not a lot of detail on when this will be in, so I guess I’ll have to wait.

IWC have done some great releases in coloured ceramic and this is just the next to come out, and with the denim strap, looks like the perfect casual summer watch. Blending this with IWC’s DNA in pilots watches and you’ve a great piece.

Fly over to our write up on it here

Tudor Black Bay 41 Burgundy Dial

Tudor are a little more “edgy” than their big sister, but sometimes, a nice update is all you need. The Tudor Black Bay 41 with the burgundy dial was just this. Nothing ground-breaking, but a slimmer case, refined details on the dial and a choice now of three different bracelet/strap options with their T-Fit micro adjust.

Tudor have also made the movement just that little bit better – now Master Chronometer certified to 0/+5s per day and keeping the 70 hour power reserve. What more could you ask for?

For more details, check it out here

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm XPS

Chopard’s new Alpine Eagle in Lucent Steel and a stunning Monte Rosa pink dial and small seconds was one of those watches where Chopard took an already good watch and made it better! The addition of the small seconds is a nice touch, and the dial is just a stunning colour.

In this model, you now the calibre L.U.C 96.40-L movement, meaning the watch has slimmed down to just 8mm thick and the movement is beautiful with an 18k micro rotor powering it.

You can find out more about this model here

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

The Odysseus Chronograph was one of the more truly unique releases at this years event, and it was a first for the brand, having never done an automatic chronograph before now.

One of the most interesting aspects of the Odysseus Chronograph is the dial configuration using the outer track and the central seconds and minutes hands to tell the elapsed time, rather than sub dials. Plus the re-set to zero function is pretty cool, and something not seen before.

You can read all about it here

Rolex Yacht-Master Titanium

Rolex aren’t normally known for their innovative releases, but this year, they’ve come out with a first for The Crown – a sports watch in Titanium in the form of the Yacht-Master in 42mm. This is a great move from Rolex, adding another variant to the Yacht-Master line, and giving people a watch that is less dressy than the standard 40mm models, and a completely different look to the precious metal models.

It’s a great stealthy looking sports watch, and due to the titanium, is light and durable and fit for the purpose it was designed for, as we saw when Sir Ben Ainslie wore the prototype a couple of years back – leaving the world waiting for its release!

Check out my thoughts on the Yacht-Master Ti here

Grand Seiko Tentagraph

Grand Seiko have never done a fully mechanical chronograph before, having limited this complication to their spring drive models. But this year, they released a fairly under the radar chronograph that is fully mechanical. However, look at the details and its more impressive than it would initially seem.

A Ten beats per seconds chronograph, accurate to -3/+5s per day, tested over 20 days, housed in an all titanium case and finished to the standards that you expect from Grand Seiko. Its all in the small details, and this is what makes this watch a sleeper!

To check out the full write up, click here

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X

This was probably the craziest watch release this year (I cold be wrong), but you’d expect nothing less from Roger Dubuis. The Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X is designed in the theme of the new limited edition 50th anniversary Lamborghini Countach LPI 800-4. Hence the name.

Lamborghini design cues are all over this watch, from the engine case between the 90° V-Shape Double Flying Tourbillon, to the way the case looks like the wheels and tyres. It’s a serious piece of kit, to go with a serious car. But not for us mere mortals at $1,210,000 and limited to 8 pieces, I won’t be lining up anytime soon!

Check out the full write up and pics here

Bell & Ross Diver White Bronze

This may not have been on many people’s top 12, but I’ve included it for this reason. Bell & Ross have created a driver with a difference, and whilst not vintage in style, it’s got vintage style cues that just work with the overall design aesthetic.

The bronze case, paired with the opaline dial and brown strap give it a unique look, and the fact that it is ISO-6425 complied means it’s a true divers watch. It may not be for everyone, but that in my eyes isn’t a bad thing, as it means you probably won’t see many in the wild, and that’s a talking point in my mind!

Check out our coverage of it here

Well that’s it for another year of Watches and Wonders. It was a great show this year, and there were some brilliant releases, and not so brilliant releases. Whilst I couldn’t cover all of the releases here (it wouldn’t be a top 12 if I could!), you can check out all of the brands and models covered at Watches and Wonder 2023 here.

Tudor have been producing some great watches over the past decade, and have stepped up and taken the place Rolex used to own in the tool watch space. Tudor watches are fit for purpose, and not only this, Tudor as a brand like to push the boundaries a little and do the unexpected. Keeping with this theme, they have released a new look Black Bay GMT this year, changing nothing really on the watch other than the dial. Small change, big impact!

The Tudor GMT was a massive hit when it was released back in 2018. Watch enthusiasts wanted a more reasonably priced alternative to the Rolex GMT’s and Tudor in fine fashion answered. It became a much sought after watch from collectors, and to be honest, I even gave in to it, picking one up (finally) last year. And its a great watch.

Last year saw the release of the Tudor GMT “Root Beer”, and this was met with mixed reviews. Some pundits not loving the overall look of the steel version, and some wanting it to be slimmer, however, I felt these were minor grievances. Not surprising then that Tudor have added yet another GMT to it’s Black Bay collection, giving people multiple colour options and bracelet/strap combinations to choose from.

Unlike the Black Bay 41 Burgundy 3.0, which you can read about here, Tudor have decided to not change anything up with this release, other than the dial, which is presented in opaline white. Opaline seems to be a common dial variant at this year’s Watches and Wonders, and in the case of the Tudor GMT, it does pop! White is a classic colour, and paired with the ‘Pepsi’ bezel, just works.

The one small irritation I do have (purely based on the press photos) is the hour markers do blend into the dial, which was an issue I had with the Black Bay Chronograph, something on the white dial version of this just seemed not right. Tudor states that “through a galvanic process, a matte white-grey finish is applied to the dial, and the marker surrounds are darkened to create a noticeable contrast“.

Looking at the live pics however, there does seem to be a nice contrast here with the lume darker and more pronounced against the opaline white dial. And on the wrist it does look good paired with the black Jacquard-woven Nato strap. The burgundy stripe ties in to the red in the bezel, nicely offsetting the dial and making it stand out.

You still get the same Manufacture Calibre MT5652, COSC-certified with a silicon balance spring and 70-hour power reserve, which is becoming standard for Tudor. The case is satin-brushed 316L stainless steel, 41mm in diameter and the bidirectional rotating bezel features an anodised aluminium insert in burgundy and deep blue to give it the classic GMT function, and as per the other GMT models, is 200m water resistant, making it a true sports watch.

I’m sure there will be a back-log of orders for this model, and if you’re in the market for a reasonably priced GMT in a white dial, then the new Tudor GMT may just have your name on it.

Reference: M79830RB-0010

Specification

• CASE: 41mm stainless steel case with polished and satin finish
• BEZEL: 48-notch bidirectional rotating bezel in stainless steel with 24-hours graduated matt burgundy/blue anodised aluminium disc
• WINDING CROWN: Screw-down crown, with the TUDOR rose in relief, with circular satin-brushed steel winding crown tube
• DIAL: Domed opaline dial with a galvanic finish
• CRYSTAL: Domed sapphire crystal
• MOVEMENT: Manufacture Calibre MT5652 (COSC), Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system. Anti-magnetic silicon balance spring, vibrating at 4Hz / 28,800 vph.
• WATERPROOFNESS: Waterproof to 200m (660 ft)
• BRACELET: Three-link stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finish, black fabric strap with burgundy accents

Availability: Enquire now through all Authorised Dealers, Tudor Boutiques or online at Tudor.com

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: $6,090 (on steel), $5,640 (on fabric)

The Black Bay 41 Burgundy was the watch in 2012 that put Tudor and the Black Bay on the map that year, and in 2023 at Watches and Wonders, Tudor has re-visited this model as it’s choice to launch it’s models, and they’ve done a very, very good job!

The Look

First up, Tudor has given the overall look some subtle changes. The case size remains the same at 41mm, and for those fans screaming out for a thinner profile, then Tudor have delivered as the new movement is now trimmed to 6.5mm thick. Tudor is yet to release the case thickness however. The dial has lost it’s three-line configuration and been replaced with a classic 2 line configuration, (alas, not the return of the smiley found on the original ETA model) as it’s now been given METAS certification as a Master Chronometer.

Other subtle changes are evident too. The bezel offers very prehensible sides and its insert shows subtly curved numerals aligning with the outline of the outer ring. The seconds hand now reflects the look of the early diving watches of the brand with a lollipop design, losing the small snowflake, while the satin black dial is subtly radial-brushed for a very subtle shine under direct light. Ergonomics have evolved as well, with a redesigned crown, reminiscent of the curves found on the crowns of the brand’s historical technical watches, that is set flush to the middle case band so that its tube is not visible – one gripe I had with the original Black Bay 41.

The most noticeable change is it now comes in three bracelet/strap options, all with Tudor’s T-Fit rapid adjustment clasp. For those purists, you can chose the three link oyster style rivet bracelet found on the original Black Bay, and the Submariners of old. For those wanting something a little different and like a Jubilee style bracelet, then you can opt for the five-oval-shaped-link brushed and polished steel bracelet. And if steel isn’t for you, then a sporty black rubber strap with steel clasp and ‘T-Fit’ system is available. All great options in my opinion.

The Movement

Tudor have given the new Black Bay 41 a movement overhaul. The Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U, which powers the Black Bay, displays hour, minute and seconds functions. Now METAS certified, it bears the Master Chronometer branding, with accuracy of 0/+5s per day when fully cased. Along with this, the silicon hairspring means it’s anti-magnetic and has a 70 hour power reserve, meaning you can take it off Friday night, and put it back on Monday morning with it still running perfectly.

Whilst the Black Bay still has its traditional case back, the MT5602-U is a good looking movement should you feel the need to take a peak under the hood. The overall movement has dedicated sun laser design, whilst the Master Chronometer mention is emblazoned across the bridges, emphasising its distinctive performance. Its rotor is fashioned in tungsten monobloc and is openworked. It also features the distinctive laser radial grooving with sand-blasted details. Its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted and polished surfaces and laser decorations to finish off the design.

Overall Thoughts

Overall, the new version of the Tudor Black Bay 41 is a great looking watch. Tudor have managed to take an already great looking, and well received piece, and upgrade it in all the right areas. Whilst some people thought the 41mm case size was too big, the BB58 addressed this, but more so, it was the thickness that deterred a lot of buyers due to the sheer case walls. The slimmer movement and as a result, slimmer case fixes this.

Now having three bracelet/strap options means that you can change the look to suit your needs, and again, the rivetted bracelet was a point of contention and polarising amongst collectors. Whilst it was true to the 1950’s Submariners, it wasn’t for everyone and the new five link bracelet and rubber strap now means you have options here too. The T-Fit clasp is also another welcome change, as is the new METAS certified movement. Stay tuned for hands on pics later this week!

Reference: 7941A1A0RU

Specifications

• Case: 41mm Polished and brushed steel case
• Calibre: Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U, Automatic self winding and METAS Certified 0/+5s per day
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Water resistance: 200 m / 20bar
• Dial: Black, domed with slight sunray finish
• Cystal: Sapphire domed
• Caseback: Closed
• Bracelet/Strap: Choice of three-link or five-link stainless steel bracelets with polished and satin finish, or rubber strap, all with TUDOR “T-Fit” clasp.

Availability: Enquire now through all Authorised Dealers, Tudor Boutiques or online at Tudor.com

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: $6,340 (on steel 5 link), $6,190 (on steel 3 link), $5,890 (Rubber)

Summer! The time to wind down, relax, and do the things that I love the most – heading to the beach, sitting at some nice cafe’s, and heading on holidays with the family. Oh, and taking copious amounts of watch pics along the way. I’ve selected some of my favourite pics from the summer that has just gone, ok, maybe a few from the start of the year as well, but hey, it’s all a bit of fun. Hope you enjoy!

Fun At The Beach

Blue watches always work well in and around water, and the Zenith Defy Skyline and Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Chronograph always take amazing shots when at the beach.

Lazing About

Summer is great for doing not not a lot at all, and I’ve been known to spend a few hours of a summer afternoon just lying in the hammock, reading a book and taking an obligatory watch shot! The Tudor Black Bay GMT is handy for knowing what tie zone it is when time doesn’t matter 😉

Surfs Up!

It’s no good going to the beach, or a tropical island for that fact and not jumping in the water. And with sports watches, and more so dive watches, that’s what they’re designed for, so jump in!

Coffees and Cafes

What better way to start a summer day than at the cafe, watching the world go by? Plus if you’re like me and can’t get going until you’ve had your morning caffeine hit, you understand!

Rockpool Fun

If you have young kids you’ll know that they love rock pools when they’re at the beach. Plus for a “Watch Dad”, these make great backdrops for photos. The Rolex Sea-Dweller in its element here.

Waterfalls

Waterfalls you ask? Why not?! Well, in my case, the first two is a waterfall by the pool at a resort in North Queensland, the third, torrential rain in Fiji. That counts right? Either way, it makes for great photos. Next time I’m out exploring real waterfalls, I’ll be sure to get pics…

So, there you have some of my favourite summer pics, and as we say goodbye to summer, and hello Autumn, I’m looking back at these and the memories they’ve helped me create, and also, remind me of what I was doing at the time with the family, as I’m quite often snapping these in the brief moments between having fun or spending some quality “me” time. I hoped you enjoyed them, and I look forward to what the cooler months bring!

1. Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 – RRP AUD 1050.00:

Why do we love this watch? This watch offers a lot for its price of AUD 1050.00. The case size of 40mm fits most wrists and comes in three honeycomb motif dial colours, white, black and blue (pictured above). Power reserve of 80 hours, which means this watch can be left alone over the weekend and come Monday, it will be ready to be worn without needing to wind it. The finishing of this watch is on par with some of the more expensive watches that cost ten times more. The single-link steel bracelet is comfortable to wear and produces an eye-catching shine. Tissot brought back an iconic 1970s design that will turn heads and is suitable for stylish dads with a busy lifestyle. Tissot offers two years international warranty on all of its watches. For more information, head over to Tissot.

2. Tudor Black Bay Pro – RRP from AUD 5010.00:

Released earlier in the year at Watches and Wonders, Black Bay Pro is an entirely new watch from the brand and became an instant hit among watch enthusiasts. The polished and satin-finished steel case (39mm in size) and riveted bracelet are made for everyday use. We like this watch for three reasons. 1. Great power reserve – at 70 hours, perfect for everyday use. 2. Dual timezone feature, which showcases two time zones simultaneously. 3. Rapid adjustment on the clasp, meaning on hot days, watch bracelet adjustment can be made on the go! Tudor Black Bay Pro is offered in three strap choices, a steel bracelet AUD 5430.00 (left), a Hybrid strap AUD 5010.00 (centre) and a Fabric strap AUD 5010.00 (right). Tudor offers five years warranty on all of their watches. Compact, sport and robust, this watch is great for adventurous dads. To find out more, head over to Tudor.

3. Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph 7741- RRP from AUD 5,695.00

Raymond Weil’s Freelancer collection was upgraded earlier in the year with the addition of Chronograph 7741. The latest improvements include a bigger case size of 43.5mm, a clean dial layout and a ceramic bezel with a tachymeter scale. The Tri-compax Chronograph is offered in a selection of dial configurations, and our favourite is the green (pictured above). Powered by the calibre RW5030, which generates a power reserve of 56hours and is showcased through an exhibition case-back. The freelancer 7741 combines classic and modern design cues to create a handsome timepiece suitable for a dad who loves his classics! Raymond Weil offers three years of international warranty on the freelancer models. For more information, visit Raymond Weil.

4. Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar- RRP from AUD 48,600.00:

First announced during 2022 Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar is one of the most beautifully executed perpetual calendars in the current market. The 42mm case (offered in steel and red gold) has a graduated blue lacquered dial with four counters that showcase the date, moon phase, date, month and year. This particular perpetual calendar does not need any manual adjustments on the counters till the year 2100.

Another feature we like in this model is the quick changing straps. You can change from a steel bracelet to a rubber strap within seconds. Powered by in-house calibre 868, which generates a power reserve of over 70 hours. Sporty and complicated, this watch is a perfect addition to a seasoned watch collector dad. Jaeger-LeCoultre offers eight years of warranty on all their watches. For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

5. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver – RRP AUD 9650.00

One of the most exciting releases from the brand in 2022 is the Aquaracer 1000 Super diver. Geared towards the professional divers, this timepiece is made for the deep waters. Grade 5 titanium case measuring 45mm and with a thickness of 15.75mm, the robust case is designed to withstand the pressures at 1000 meters below sea level, equipped with a helium valve to prevent damage upon decompression. The simple and highly legible dial comes alive at night. TAG Heuer teamed up with the swiss movement manufacturer to exclusively create the movement TH30-00 for the Superdiver, which produces a power reserve of 70 hours. The Superdiver comes with five years of international warranty. The Superdiver boasts sporty elegance and will be suitable for an adventurous and daring dad, particularly water lovers. For more information, visit TAG Heuer.

6. Breitling Navitimer B01 70th Anniversary – RRP from AUD 12090.00

Earlier this year, Breitling celebrated the 70th anniversary of the legendary Navitimer. With that, Breitling brought out their latest versions of the Navitimers. Offered in 46mm, 43mm and 41mm case sizes and vibrant dial choices, there is sure to be a model that will cater for every dad! Noticeable changes for the new Navitimers include the new in-house B01 movement with a power reserve of 70 hours (showcased on the caseback), the new AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association) wings logo replacing the old Breitling logo and new vibrant shades dials, notably the blue (pictured above) green and Copper. The watch can be worn with either bracelet or leather strap. A five-year warranty is offered on the in-house movement Breitling watches. The new Navitimer would be a great gift for the stylish and classy dad. For more information, visit Breitling.

7. Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date- RRP from AUD 4,470.00

Montblanc entered the diver watch category earlier in the year with their first ever diver – The 1858 Iced sea Automatic Date. Starting price of AUD 4470.00 for the 41mm steel case on the rubber strap is a great value for the price point. Three things we like about the new dive watch. 1. Quick change strap change system with fine adjustment system 2. The dial was inspired by the glaciers of the Montblanc massif and produced in an ancestral technique called “gratté-boisé”. 3. Unidirectional bi-colour Ceramic bezel that matches the dial. 1858 Iced sea Automatic date is offered in three dial variations, black, green and blue (pictured). Stylish from every angle, Montblanc’s first-ever diver watch is a great addition to any dad’s watch collection or his first-ever swiss watch. Montblanc offers two years of international warranty on all their watches. For more information, head over to Montblanc.

On the 8th of July 1952, the British North Greenland Expedition left to embark on a two-year scientific mission, studying the ice sheets in Greenland. While the scientists carried out their duties, TUDOR also asked them to gather performance data on the brand-new Oyster Prince models that were given to the research team. As the scientists were in extreme conditions, it would provide the perfect scenario to test these watches. While the TUDOR timepieces used by the members of this expedition didn’t bear the RANGER inscription on the dial, future Ranger models took on the concepts of this expedition timepiece. 

The origin of the Ranger line starts well before this expedition, however. It goes back to 1929, just three years after Hans Wilsdorf registered “The TUDOR” trademark. When the Ranger name was first used, it didn’t indicate a specific model in TUDOR’s collection but rather to add an “adventurous” aspect to some of the brand’s watches. 

While TUDOR’s Ranger line started in the 1940s, the model that modern watches use as a reference was first created in 1965. Using the British North Greenland Expedition watches as a reference, the 1965 Ranger came with large Arabic numerals coated with luminescent material positioned at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock. The watch also came with the arrow hour hand and straight sharp minute hand. 

Although there have been many iterations of the Ranger watch since then, this latest 2022 edition celebrating the British North Greenland Expedition’s 70th anniversary uses the 1965 timepiece as a reference to create a modern replica of the watch. 

WatchAdvice’s Thoughts:

The 1965 model of the Ranger is iconic, as it is the first model to have a complete design change from the previous versions. This design change will carry through for the next models created by TUDOR, with minor changes reflecting modern updates. 

The 2022 rendition is faithful to the 1965 design, as it comes with a 39mm case, which along with the bracelet (with a T-Fit safety catch), is satin-brushed to give a matte finish, the purest spirit of a “tool watch”. The hour indices are designed exactly like the 1965 edition, with the markers being filled with beige luminescent material. The use of beige colour allows the markers to have a perfect contrast against the grained matte black dial. The most noticeable design change between the 1965 model and this version is the Burgandy tip on the second hand. 

TUDOR’s biggest update to the 2022 rendition of the RANGER is the addition of the calibre MT5402 movement. Designed to ensure robustness, longevity, and reliability, it’s the ideal movement from TUDOR for a watch made for adventures. 

While the original 1965 edition was available only on a stainless steel bracelet, this modern version offers a choice of satin-brushed steel bracelet, a natural fabric-like textured black leather, or TUDOR’s own jacquard strap. The jacquard strap is an olive-green bracelet with a single beige and two red stripes down the middle. 

Even though this latest Ranger timepiece carries the tried and tested design concepts that make Ranger watches durable, reliable, and precise, TUDOR also offers a five-year guarantee, which does not require the watch to be submitted for periodic checks or be registered. 

Reference: 79950

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $3,730 AUD for both Hybrid and Fabric straps, $4,150 AUD for the Steel Bracelet.

Availability: July 2022