This latest timepiece by Ulysse Nardin, unveiled in late June this year, is an update to their Freak X model. As we know already, the Freak X is one of Ulysse Nardin’s flagship timepieces. Making its first appearance back in 2001, it completely changed what we knew about watchmaking. The timepiece had no dial nor hands, with the movement itself telling the wearer the time. The Freak X was well ahead of its time, and to this day it’s still a standout piece in the world of horology.

Now, with the release of the New Freak X Enamel Blue, Ulysse Nardin has combined ancient métiers d’art with cutting-edge technology. Done all in-house, Ulysse Nardin explains their process of enamel dials carried out at the Manufacture of Donzé Cadrans in Le Locle (owned by Ulysse Nardin).

“A decorative technique perpetuated and transmitted over generations of craftsmen; enameling is today only used on watches produced by the most prestigious watchmakers. This technique is rare in all its processes, considering the delicate work of the enameller in all the gestures, from the preparation to the application of the enamel. As it requires talent, knowledge and
experience, only very few craftsmen can master it.”

This new Freak X Enamel Blue doesn’t simply just have an enamel dial either, it also comes with the beautiful artistic guilloché technique. The geometric lines achieved with this guilloché technique give the dial a lot more depth and character, making it seem artistic indeed.

After the guilloché technique is applied to the dial, Ulysse Nardin states that “Several layers of water-based enamel are
then applied to this base. Indeed, the enamel is first crushed in a mortar with a pestle and then water is added. Several layers of color dry between them in the oven at a temperature of about 800 degrees and between each layer, only one minute of cooling is needed. Three to four layers of colored enamel and at least five oven cycles are necessary before applying a final layer of translucent enamel, called «fondant». This layer is essential because the result of the process depends on it.”

The complex mechanical beauty of Ulysse Nardin’s UN-230 sits atop the dial, however thanks to its skeletonized nature, the enamel dial underneath can still be fully seen. The flying carrousel of the automatic winding movement turns itself once every hour to indicate the time. Seeing this intricate mechanical mechanism makes its way around the dial with the enamel dial in the background is certainly bound to grab attention.

The UN-230 Manufacture movement comes with balance wheels and escapement made from silicon, which is a specialty of the Swiss brand. The movement operates at a frequency of 12,600 VpH, and is able to give out a decent power reserve of 72 hours.

Ulysse Nardin has given the Freak X Enamel Blue a 43 titanium case and case back, which contrasts well against the blue enamel dial. The timepiece comes with an open case back, however, much of the movement is closed off, with the skeletonised rotor, blue jewels, and blue inscriptions being the stand-out features. To complement the dial, Ulysse Nardin has paired this latest Freak X with a blue alligator leather strap with white stitching and a titanium folding clasp.

Limited to just 50 timepieces, the Freak X Enamel Blue is a true artistic timepiece, both in the sense of mechanical and enamel/guilloché technique, and it shows Ulysse Nardin is playing a major role in the future of horology. s Patrick Pruniaux of Ulysse Nardin sums up this timepiece by stating “We sincerely value our partnership with Thailand’s most leading luxury watch retail group. We truly heralded a new era in mechanical watchmaking, using silicon. Bringing enamel, an ancestral know-how, together with cutting-edge technology, was a real challenge, and the meticulous work done on the Freak X Enamel Blue is mind-blowing”.

Reference: 2303-270LE-3AE-THG/3A

Specification

• Case: 43mm
• Case Material: Grey titanium
• Dial: Blue enamel on guilloché technieque
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating.
• Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
• Movement: Automatic Calibre UN-230
• Power reserve: Approx. 72 hours
• Strap: Blue alligator leather strap with white stitching Titanium deployant buckle

Availability: June 2023, Exclusively through PMT The Hour Glass Retailer. Limited to 50 Timepieces.

International Recommended Retail Pricing:  CHF 38, 000

Ulysse Nardin’s association with the marine world goes back almost two hundred years, to 1846 when the brand made the first marine chronometers. These marine chronometers were of vital importance, as their accuracy was depended on for setting the course of a ship. Now these very oceans are in danger, and for them to survive, sustainable practices along with environmental resources are a must.

The United Nations has dedicated an international day to it, an opportunity for Ulysse Nardin to support the NGO OCEARCH
and shark activist Mike Coots and to put its expertise in innovation and timekeeping at the service of this essential cause. Ulysse Nardin has used as many raw and recycled materials as they can responsibly in the creation of these two timepieces, all the while not compromising on the high standard of excellence expected of the brand.

To put things into perspective as to why sustainable practices are required, ninety percent of large fish populations have been depleted, fifty percent of coral reefs have been destroyed, and nine million tonnes of plastic are dumped into the Ocean each year. The approach that Ulysse Nardin is taking certainly helps reduce waste and provides a sustainable approach to watch manufacturing. For example, their Diver Net timepiece which was first presented last year, has been constructed from upcycled materials. This timepiece is the fruition of a collaboration between Ulysse Nardin and several other start-ups focused on ocean conservation.

This latest Diver Net Azure case is made from Carbonium®, which has approximately 40% less of an environmental impact compared to standard carbon composites. Other parts of the case include Nylo® (recycled polyamide from fishing nets) and lastly 95% recycled steel. The steel composition is a vast improvement from the first Diver Net model, which only contained 80% recycled steel. With each new model that comes out, Ulysse Nardin is showing us that they are very much committed to the cause of sustainable practices to protect our oceans.

The 2023 Diver Net Azure is presented in a beautiful azure-blue rubber strap, with azure-blue details also shown throughout the watch. Details such as the markings on the bezel, the ‘X’ on the dial, and subdial inscriptions and hands. The hour indices and hands have a generous amount of SuperLumi-Nova which certainly helps when the watch can dive up to 300m depth. The Carbonium® adds character to the watch as well, with the bezel showing the unique carbon look that will be different on each watch.

Ulysse Nardin has given the Diver Net Azure the UN-118 movement. This movement comes fitted with a silicon balance spring, an escapement wheel, and an anchor in DiamonSil. The movement powers the small seconds at 6 o’clock, the date at 6 o’clock, the power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, and also the normal time operation. Beating at 4Hz (28, 800 Vph) it’s also able to put out a power reserve of approximately 60 hours.

The Diver X Skeleton Azure takes a different approach to the Diver Net, by being a lot more technical and revolutionising the way diving watches are presented aesthetically. The Diver X Skeleton comes in a titanium DLC case that is water-resistant to 200m. Immediately the eye is drawn to the ‘X’ on the dial made from deep black with the inner outlines done in azure blue. What’s sitting underneath the X is the heart of the Diver X.

And what is at the heart of the Diver X? It’s Ulysse Nardin’s UN-372 Manufacture caliber movement, which stands out proudly for its reliability and accuracy. It also comes fitted with an extra-large oscillator and a silicon escapement wheel, anchor, and
balance spring, all produced in-house, which is rare in watchmaking. Operating at a frequency of 3Hz (21, 600 VpH), the UN-372 movement is able to push out an impressive power reserve of 96 hours.

Much like the Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Azure, the Diver X Skeleton Azure features the same azure blue details throughout the watch. From the rubber strap to the incremental markings on the bezel to the blue minute track and ‘X’ on the dial, these details are all a reference to the beautiful colour of the oceans the brand is working hard to protect.

With the release of the Diver Net Azure and Diver X Skeleton Azure, Ulysse Nardin is showing their specialty in watchmaking innovation through the sustainable materials used to create these watches while also displaying the high accuracy of these diving instruments.

Reference: 1183-170-2B/3A (Diver Net Azure)

Specification

• Case: 44 mm,
• Case Material: Central case, bezel, case back, and movement mount in 95% recycled stainless steel. Side case and case back ring: 60% Nylo® recycled fishing nets and 40% Carbonium® upcycled carbon fibers from the aeronautic industry.
• Dial: Sandblasted black dial with an embossed and satinated X
• Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.
• Water resistance: 300m (30bar)
• Movement: UN-118 Manufacture calibre
• Power reserve: 60 hours
• Strap: Azure-coloured rubber strap with black “Ulysse Nardin” ceramic element at 6 o’clock. Black ceramic pin buckle.

Availability:  Selected retailers and Ulysse Nardin Boutiques.

International Recommended Retail Pricing: 11,900 CHF

Reference: 3723-170-2B/3A (Diver X Skeleton Azure)

Specification

• Case: 44 mm,
• Case Material: Polished and satin finished black DLC titanium casering: 60% Nylo® recycled fishing nets and 40%
• Dial: X-shaped skeleton dial in polished and satin-finished black PVD. Carbonium® barrel cover.
• Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.
• Water resistance: 200m (20bar)
• Movement: UN-372 Manufacture calibre
• Power reserve: 96 hours
• Strap: Azure-coloured rubber strap with black “Ulysse Nardin” ceramic element at 6 o’clock. Folding clasp in black ceramic and black PVD titanium.

Availability:  Selected retailers and Ulysse Nardin Boutiques.

International Recommended Retail Pricing: 25,000 CHF

Two weeks ago a few of the Watch Advice team, along with other media and industry people were at a lunch at Iceberg’s Dining with Ulysse Nardin and The Hour Glass, helping to launch the new Freak One in Australia. If you want to read more about that, along with the interview with Ulysse Nardin’s CEO, Patrick Pruniaux, then read all about it here.

At the lunch and launch, Patrick had an idea to takeover the Iceberg’s pool with a giant Freak One that could be seen from above. Fast forward to two weeks later and Ulysse Nardin and The Hour Glass have done it – put a giant Freak One at the bottom of the Iceberg’s pool with a massive takeover!

Why Bondi and why Icebergs? The answer is simple. Ulysse Nardin is a brand that has it’s history tied to the ocean, dating way back to 1846 when Ulysse Nardin himself set out to develop his own marine chronometers for navigation, and subsequently pocket watches and then wrist watches. So why not do something big next to the ocean and in water?!

Freak ONE is the quintessence of Freak: as the direct descendent of the original Freak 2001, it features its three signature characteristics: no crown, no hands, and no dial. Movement is king as it tells time.

The most thrilling element of the new Freak ONE is the oversized and highly complex, aerodynamic, and inertia-optimized balance wheel crafted entirely from one piece of silicon, and a lever escapement executed in DIAMonSIL (a patented form of diamond-coated silicon). This is the result of Ulysse Nardin’s unrivalled expertise in silicon technology and represents the single most advanced oscillator in the watch industry.

The Freak ONE is also the first Freak with an integrated rubber strap, made of 30 percent recycled rubber from production waste by BIWI, a local Swiss Jura based rubber straps manufacturer. It becomes Ulysse Nardin’s flagship watch and the Manufacture’s centre of gravity as it defines its new independence.

When asked about the location to launch the Freak One here in Australia, Patrick Pruniaux comments “I’m so pleased and glad that I’m here, and I think this place (Talking about Bondi) represents and illustrates very well what we stand for, I mean there couldn’t be any better place than this one. Actually when you think of it, in a country like Australia, its almost the perfect fit. I mean the mindset here, the evolution of Luxury in the Australian market which is absolutely stunning, I really feel there is a great fit in the Australian market!”

The takeover of the Iceberg’s pool showcases Ulysse Nardin’s boldness and innovative nature, and in doing so, cements itself as a truly emblematic brand when it comes to wearable high horology that likes to push the boundaries, the way only a Freak can!

For those wanting to check out the Dive Into Freak takeover of Icebergs, then hurry as it’s only there for a couple of days and Saturday 27th is the last day to see it in person.

The Ocean Race Diver Chronograph Limited Edition is a new timepiece that has been created by Ulysse Nardin to celebrate the historic race’s 50th anniversary, which first set off in 1973 off the coastal town of Portsmouth in England. This prestigious race goes by many names. Before it was called the Ocean Race for the 2022-2023 season, it also went by the names of Whitbread Round the World Race and the Volvo Ocean Race. The Ocean Race is seen as a formidable test of human endeavour and is widely seen as one of the hardest races on the high seas.

Ulysse Nardin is the Official Timekeeper of the Ocean Race, so it was only right that this limited-edition model was launched in collaboration with the Ocean Race. The watch brand is responsible for the official timings of the various legs and stops while also being the timekeeper for the 24-Hour Speed Challenge. This challenge has each team face off against each other to see who can cover the most distance in a 24-hour period.

Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Ulysse Nardin explains this timepiece as “the new Diver celebrates this legendary sailing race, its commitment to protecting the ocean environment, and the research and marine conservation projects that Ulysse Nardin is proud to support.”

The Ulysse Nardin Ocean Race Limited Edition comes in a 44mm sandblasted black DLC titanium case that has a water resistance of 300m. The uni-directional bezel comes with a Carbonium finish, which means it contains fibres that are upcycled from aeroplane fuselage offcuts, which ultimately offers 40% lower environmental impact than other carbon composites. It also provides a unique look, as it stands out beautifully against the black DLC titanium case.

The main colour theme on this timepiece is blue and white, which is a call to the colours of The Ocean Race. Blue and white can be found throughout the watch, starting from the bezel which has alternating markings in these colours. This colour coordination can be found on the dial on the minute track and the sub-dial counters. The chronograph seconds hand is in blue, while the rhodium-plated hour and minute hands along with hour indices are in white thanks to the generous amounts of Super-LumiNova.

The counters displayed are 30-min at 3 o’clock, 12-hour, and 6 o’clock, and a constant seconds counter at 9 o’clock. A subtle date window is also located within the 6 o’clock counter. The finishing touch is the black sand-blasted finish on the dial. This sand-blasted finish gives the dial a grainy texture/look and gives it a more visual appeal like the bezel.

Ulysse Nardin has fitted the calibre UN-150 self-winding manufacture movement, which can be visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The case back also has the engravement number “50”, which is a tribute to the race’s anniversary. The calibre UN-150 movement operates at a frequency of 4hz, while giving out a power reserve of approximately 48 hours.

The Ocean Race Diver Chronograph is being presented as part of the sport and environmental commitment that Ulysse Nardin is a part of. The Manufacture is a partner of Time to Act, which is a program that aims to reduce the devastating impact of pollution, climate change and industrial overfishing of our oceans. This timepiece is limited to 100 models only, and can only be purchased from Ulysse Nardin boutiques.

Specification

Reference: 1503-170LE-2A-TOR/3A

• Case: 44mm
• Thickness: 14.9mm thick
• Case Material: Sandblasted and satin-finished black DLC titanium
• Case back: Black DLC titanium open sapphire case back, ‘50’ logo in tribute to the 50th anniversary of The Ocean Race
• Dial: Sandblasted black dial
• Crystal: Scratch-resistant anti-reflective sapphire crystal.
• Water resistance: 300m / 30bar
• Movement: Calibre UN-150 self-winding Manufacture movement Chronograph
• Power reserve: 48 Hours
• Strap: Black rubber strap with a black ceramic element at 6 o’clock, engraved with The Ocean Race logo Black ceramic pin buckle

International Recommended Retail Price: AUD $15,700

Availability: Available now through Ulysse Nardin Boutiques.

Ulysee Nardin has a long history in watchmaking that include several firsts for the industry. However, up until a few year back, the brand had been languishing under the Kering Group, the holding company for both Ulysse Nardin and Girard Perregaux (and may other luxury brands like Gucci and Balenciaga). But in January 2022, Kering decided to sell it’s 100% ownership of Sowind Group SA back to the brand’s management, headed by Patrick Pruniaux, essentially making Ulysse Nardin independent again.

Now free to dictate it’s own destiny, Ulysse Nardin is going from strength to strength under Patrick’s leadership, and this is showcased in their watches, their movements and technical innovation and as Patrick puts it, a boldness to do what other’s are not.

Ulysse Nardin is a brand that has it’s history tied to the ocean, dating way back to 1846 when Ulysse Nardin himself set out to develop his own marine chronometers for navigation, and subsequently pocket watches and then wrist watches. And this heritage runs deep (pardon the pun!), so to launch the new model at an iconic ocean side venue, like Bondi Icebergs, makes complete sense and sets the tone perfectly for it’s launch into Australia, so much so, Patrick Pruniaux comments “I’m so pleased and glad that I’m here, and I think this place (Talking about Bondi) represents and illustrates very well what we stand for, I mean there couldn’t be any better place than this one!”

Guests were treated to a great seafood lunch, with spanning views of Bondi beach on a glorious sunny Autumn day, and to be able to sit down with both Patrick, Clemence Le Rolland (Brand Manager for UN) and senior staff from The Hour Glass was a rare chance to understand the brand better and it’s plans for Australia.

According to Patrick, the Australian market is a perfect fit for Ulysse Nardin:

“Actually when you think of it, in a country like Australia, its almost the perfect fit. I mean the mindset here, the evolution of Luxury in the Australian market whiich is absolutely stunning, the audacity also, I can see Australian watch lovers coming to bands, starting with mass luxury brand and then going to more specialist brands, the appetite to discover new brands, plus the products are made for living, not for status…I relly feel there is a great fit in the Australian market!”

This sentiment is great to hear, as too often smaller or independent brands don’t focus much on this part of the world, primarily due to the market size, but also, the perception is Australian watch enthusiasts are gravitating towards the mass brands. And it’s easy to see why this perception exists, just look at the demand for certain steel sports watches over the past few years!

This doesn’t phase Patrick however, as he sees a bright future for brands like Ulysse Nardin and Girard Peregaux out here.

“Last year was crazy for the watch industry, for plenty of reasons, and I think it has normalised now. I’m very optimistic, I think now and in the long run, the luxury watch industry has a lot of potential. There are more people buying watches and more often and they’re more curious and they want independent watches and they want an exclusive brand, a brand that conveys something unique, and so we are there. We are not the only one, but we are there.”

And when it comes to customers, there seems to be a shift. We see this at Watch Advice and the groups that we’re involved in across the country – new customers are emerging who are wanting something unique and not the same brands and styles, and from a brand that stands for something. It seems this is another sentiment that Patrick echoes for his brand as well: “In the case of Ulysse Nardin, the average age of our consumers went down 15 years over the last 5-6 years, and I can see new customers coming in, that are interested in what we are doing but also want to understand the sustainability part”

Sustainability is also an interesting area that Ulysse Nardin are tackling, from recycled ocean plastics, to their low carbon footprint. And in an interesting viewpoint I’d not considered before, the way he sees sustainability for Ulysse Nardin is even embodied in their watches themselves. He goes on to explain:

“When we talk about sustainability, the core value of sustainability probably can not be embodied in a better way than in a luxury watch, basically as long as you look after it, it could live forever, doesn’t require any external energy, except you moving your wrist, and in our case, we spearhead what can be done with materials. Some of our watches use some unique materials, recycled plastics from the sea…”

It’s a different take on sustainability, but when you think about it, it’s kind of true in the sense that a good mechanical watch has no wastage or bi-product one produced if the person keeps it and maintains it, should never end up in landfill, doesn’t require fuel and if made using sustainable or recycled products, including the packaging, then it does have a very low footprint.

Coming back to their new found freedom since the buy back from Kering, whilst Patrick saw the partnership as one of shared values and support, his vision for Ulysse Nardin’s future is long term. And in watchmaking you need to. “We are looking at things beyond 2030, we’re planning some new movements that will take forever to develop.” And given Patrick sees this as his last job, and potentially his legacy. “We’re very stable, and I said it very openly that this is my last job, and I intend to live long!“

Patrick whilst very optimistic and charismatic, he is also introspective and knows the Ulysse Nardin can be better. Whilst they have had a long history of over 175 years, he admits that they’ve not done a very good job of educating people on the brand, its roots and heritage, something he wants to do better in the future.

“There is one thing that Ulysse Nardin doesn’t do so well, and I can blame myself for that, but was already the case before that probably part of our DNA, we haven’t and we could do better explaining what we do and where we come from. Even when you see our museum it’s really nice, but its only scratching the surface of the story we can tell, and the craftsmanship, all the work behind it etc. This is why I spend all my time whenever I travel inviting people to come over because the only way we can do it, showcase the little things better. There is nothing to sacrifice in history, I think everything has to be explained and told.”

I mentioned this point to Patrick when talking to him afterwards, that part of the love for a watch and brand, at least in my eyes and fellow collectors is that story, understanding where the brand comes from, what they stand for and the way they make their watches. It allows for novice and seasoned collectors to connect with the brand on a deeper level, and only when you know about that heritage and history, can you tell if this is a brand that resonates with you.

And speaking of this history and watchmaking credentials, he explained that Ulysse Nardin has devised and invented over 35 new movements in the past 25 years, which in my mind, is incredible! “Its actually very rare at that level of technology, I don’t know many brands or many Maison’s that would be so creative. And there is so much appetite or it internally! I can tell you, the product development team would knock on the door everyday with a new product. I mean these guys are just inventors!” And Patrick loves this energy and likes to nurture this culture, even if they won’t use the movement just yet, he likes to keep the creative juices flowing.

Admittedly, there is something a little poetic about watchmaking, and when a brand like Ulysse Nardin looks back at its heritage and models that set it apart, but re-imagines this for the present and future, you can see a special product. The Freak One is just that. UN has taken inspiration not from the models from the past few years, but from the original Freak developed in 2001. Next to each other, you can see the similarities and just where the 2023 version has spawned from.

“Using the expertise that’s been developed over centuries and reinventing some watches, and the Freak does that I think very well…Our technology is still progressing a lot, especially in our silicon technology. The new Freak One is superb, it’s the ninth generation of the Freak. I mean we’re basically every 2-3 years bringing novelties out. We brought something very important a couple of years ago called the ‘grinder’, it was the ultimate energy harvesting system, and only the grinder could enable a watch like the Freak to become automatic and we wanted to make the movement slimmer, which it did.”

So in essence, the Freak One is an evolution of previous Freaks, but taking inspiration directly from the original 2001 model and in true Ulysee Nardin fashion, evolved and iterated to make it better, more wearable and true to UN’s DNA. And this is something that Patrick and Ulysse Nardin are proud of – high horology that is wearable everyday, comfortable and easy to read, something many other brands are not these days.

Whilst I won’t go into details to much as we’ve covered the Freak One when it was released at Watches and Wonders earlier in the year, which you can read about here, it is a wearable watch even at 44mm, it’s light thanks to its Titanium case and hugs the wrist thanks to its case design. And yes, it looks as good in person as it does in the press photos!

The Hour Glass are the official retail partner here in Australia, and I for one am excited to see more of the brand in Australia. Post the watch hype of the past few years, it is good to see some higher horology brands with unique pieces and movements, like that of the Freak One hitting our shores, and I for one will be keeping an eye on Ulysse Nardin to see how the Australian watch enthusiasts embrace them – with open arms I hope!

Patrick is big on his outdoors sports and loves swimming, climbing, hiking and just about anything nature has to offer. Throughout the event, he kept glancing at the Icebergs pool below (more so as he wanted to go for a swim), but for a bit of fun, he wanted to see if he could do something with the pool – he liked the idea of a Freak you could see from space. So the challenge was thrown out to The Hour Glass and Ulysee Nardin, could they turn the Bondi Icebergs pool into a Freak? Challenge accepted and we will see if they are able to pull it off! As soon as we know, you will!

And for another little bit of fun to end this article, check out our video below that captures some of the Australian Launch, and at the end, a bit of a cheeky interview with Patrick, posing the same three questions to him that Ulysse Nardin asked us at Watches and Wonders this year. Enjoy!

The Hour Glass are the official retail partner for Ulysee Nardin in Australia, and if you’re wanting to check out the UN range, then head into The Hour Glass in your nearest capital city to check them out.

For more information on Ulysse Nardin, and the Freak, head over to ulysse-nardin.com for more.

I think Taylor Swift said it well in her song Blank Space, when she sung “I’m a nightmare dressed like a daydream”, which is exactly what this scenario is for many of us. A daydream that could be a nightmare for us indecisive watch lovers! This question came up when talking to one of my colleagues a few weeks ago; what would you buy with $100k? The honest answer is, I have no idea, as the options and possibilities are endless!

Is the $100k a watch at retail, or on the grey market? Does it have to be new, or second hand? And when splurging that type of cash on just ONE watch, do you go for a daily wearer, or one that you pull out at special occasions to show off? Now you can see the whole nightmare part of this daydream scenario. Again, thanks TayTay.

Watch Advice is about giving advice, so naturally, for anyone out there that’s blessed to have this first world problem, we have a five great choices for you. And for those just playing along at home and daydreaming about such a scenario, then dream about some of the below pieces gracing your wrist. Maybe one day one of them will!

Just note, all the prices are at retail, as we’re assuming that you can buy at retail new from a store, not the grey market or second hand, and with you’re new found wealth, why not – it is an imaginary scenario after all!

Breguet Classique Hora Mundi 5727

Maybe not a daily wearer, unless you sit in an office all day as a CEO that is. Nonetheless, Breguet are known for their beautiful watch making, and with $100k at your disposal, this is right on the mark! The 18k Gold Hora Mundi 5727 combines instant time-zone jump with synchronised date, 24-hour and city indications, perfect for those wanting to travel and do it in style!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $100,000

Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Piaget is massively underrated in my opinion, and if you’re wanting something different with serious horological chops, then the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a fantastic statement piece that says “I don’t follow the crowd”. The green dial is stunning, and Piaget pioneered the Ultra Thin movement over 50 years ago, which you can read here. It’s a 42mm case, only 8.65mm thick, and to cram all those complications into a movement that’s only 4mm thick is a work of art and science!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $89,000

AP Royal Oak Pink Gold Chronograph 38mm

No daydream scenario would be complete without at least entertaining an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. In this instance, the pink gold 38mm Chronograph will do the trick! And as these wear large, it will feel like you’ve a 40-41mm on the wrist, and the pink gold combined with the blue Grande Tapisserie dial is perfect and says you’ve made it! It’s a tad over the limit, but hey, only a couple of grand!

Australian Approximate Retail Price: $102,000

Marco Lang Zweigesicht Variation III In Platinum

Marco Lang may not be a name you’ve heard of, but the German watchmaker is doing some incredible work, like the Zweigesicht Variation III in Platinum. With only 18 watches available, you’ll be sure to stand out. This model has a white-fired skeletonized dial in solid silver, covered with blue, translucent enamel “grand feu” and Cathedral hands in blued steel. If that wasn’t enough, the shapes and materials of the hands, hand engravings in the movement and on the case, even different cuts and polishes can be customised for you.

Price based on dial and customisation chosen, circa $100,000

Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire

Hublot gets a bad wrap, but to be honest, they do things with materials most other brands wouldn’t think of, and the R&D that goes into some of their pieces is quite amazing. And if you’re not afraid to show off a little, then the Big Bang Unico Sapphire 42 is the perfect statement piece, after all, you’ve got the cash, so why not flaunt it a little. With an all sapphire case, skeletonised dial and the HUB1280 Unico in house movement with flyback chronograph, you’re actually getting a decent watch under all that showiness.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $96,000

So there you have it – 5 watches that will let you blow $100,000 in one hit! And if you don’t like any of these suggestions, then feel free to drop us a comment in the section below and tell us what you’d buy with a lazy $100k?

So instead, we present my favourite twelve picks that came out of this year’s Geneva show, from Rolex’s Daytona to Vacheron Constantin’s Retrograde update.

Ulysse Nardin Freak One

The latest update to one of the most daring timepieces created in the 21st century. This newest creation, the Freak One, comes packed with technology while still remaining durable, easy to use, and designed to be worn as a daily.

The timepiece has been given a black DLC-coated titanium case with a rose gold 5N bezel with a matching dial interior. The three signature characteristics that made the Freak an icon is retained on this timepiece: no hands, no dial, and no crown. Ulysse Nardin is aiming to make the Freak One its flagship timepiece. You can read more about this latest FREAK creation here!

TAG Heuer Carrera Date 36mm

While TAG Heuer updated quite a few of their collections, one that stood out beautifully was the new colourways for the new Carrera Date 36mm.

The vibrant pink dial is just made to stand out. The added snailed finish on the dial makes it a stunning timepiece. TAG Heuer made a bold choice to break away from the traditional colours of black, blue, or white. A choice that we think will pay off for the brand. To see more of this pink dial Carrera Date plus more, click here!

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

No list would be complete without seeing the latest update from Rolex. The Rolex Daytona is as emblematic as it gets in the world of watches. The entire range of Daytona’s got an update for this year’s Watches and Wonders.

While the update to a lot of the models in this collection seemed minor, especially aesthetically, what stood out was the 950 platinum edition. Rolex has, for the first time in a Daytona, given the timepiece an open case back. Only visible on the 950 platinum model, Rolex has given this new Daytona collection the new-generation calibre 4131 movement. Read more about this latest update to the Daytona here!

Hublot Square Bang Unico New Editions

2022 saw the release of a world-first, square-shaped Bang Unico from Hublot. This model has enjoyed a lot of success since its release, so why not bring it back with an impressive update?

This year Watches and Wonders saw Hublot unveil three new editions for their Square Bang Unico. Two models in white and black sapphire and an incredible Square Bang Unico in Sapphire. Hublot is one of the leaders of using sapphire materials in their timepiece, so it only makes sense to bring two impressive designs together. Read all about the new Square Bang Unico here!

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Retrograde

Vacheron Constantin, this year has been all about the retrograde update, with some existing collections getting this feature. One of these collections is the Overseas line.

What is already a stunning timepiece with that gorgeous blue dial, this all-new Overseas model gets the retrograde function. The retrograde display is a historical design for Vacheron Constantin, one that fits beautifully on this timepiece as is also accompanied by a moon phase indicator. Read more about this retrograde update for Vacheron’s Overseas model here!

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition

I’ve always been a fan of Montblanc’s Geosphere timepiece. The fact that you get the northern and southern hemispheres on the dial spinning in sync with the day/24hr time was always interesting to see.

Now, Montblanc has given the 1858 Geosphere a new update. Montblanc introduced a new capsule collection that pays tribute to the world’s 14 highest peaks. These mountains are all above 8000 feet and have barely any oxygen, which is the central theme in this new collection. Read more about this latest 1858 Geosphere creation from Montblanc here!

IWC Schaffhausen’s Ingenieur Automatic 40

IWC has given their Ingenieur collection a newly engineered update, which references design codes from Gerald Genta’s Ingenieur SL (ref. 1832) from the 1970s.

The new collection comes with four models, with three models being made from stainless steel and the fourth given the titanium treatment. It takes an old classic and gives it modern design features while also improving wearability and performance. All the right ingredients to make it hit in the world of watchmaking. Read more about IWC’s newest Ingenieur Automatic 40 collection here!

Cartier Skeleton Collection

While this isn’t a singular watch, the entire Cartier Skeleton collection makes it into this list. For this year’s skeleton models update, Cartier is upgrading four new collections, each with their own iconic shape and design.

The Santos-Dumont, Pasha de Cartier, Santos de Cartier, and a grand complications pocket watch are getting aesthetic and mechanical upgrades. With a flawless balance between the movement and dial, Cartier has mastered the art of making skeleton watches, more so evident through this latest collection of skeleton timepieces. Read more about this collection here!

Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton In Black Ceramic

Following on from 2022’s update for the DEFY Skyline models with the new generation of seminal El Primero high-frequency calibre movements, 2023 sees the watches get a new aesthetic upgrade.

Two models in the DEFY Skyline line get a black ceramic makeover, with one of the models being the Skeleton. Crafted entirely in black ceramic, including the bracelet, the DEFY Skyline Skeleton is one of the standout pieces in Zeniths 2023 releases. To read more about this timepiece, click here.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Bi-colour

This year, Oris has updated the Aquis collection with new colours and materials. With the combination of the coloured rubber straps, the Oris Aquis Date Calibre Bi-colour for is one of the stand-outs in the collection.

This fun summer timepiece is offered in two dial colour variations (deep blue and forest green) and has an 18-carat fold finish on the edges of the bezel and matching gold details on the dial. Oh, and did we mention that it features Oris’s incredible 5-day power reserve Calibre 400 movement? If this piques your interest, click here to read more!

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

This one for all the racing enthusiasts out there. The iconic and ageless design of the original 1963 Heuer Carrera has inspired this latest creation from the Swiss giant. With a fresh new dynamic styling, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph will be released with two dial variants: a black and blue dial.

The dial carries a lot of colour accents, with them being the gradient orange ring, a reference to racecar speedometers. Each variant of this new Carrera Chronograph has its own character; however, what’s clear is that both timepieces carry the Carrera icon into the next generation with ageless styling and high-quality movements. To find out more about this Carrera Chronograph update, click here.

Baume & Mercier Riviera 39mm Collection

Another collection of timepieces that stood out was Baume & Mercier’s 39mm Riviera line. Released as part of the celebrations of Riviera’s 50^th anniversary, this new collection is offered with different material and dial variations.

Available in either stainless steel with a smoked blue dial or smoked grey sapphire dial or titanium bezel with a smoked grey dial, this new Riviera collection features a beautiful wave transfer decoration on the dial. This latest update for the Riviera collection brings it forward to a new era while keeping all the essence of what makes this piece loved by watch aficionados. To read more about this collection, click here!

These three signature characteristics rewrote high-end watchmaking codes, and since the release of the original Freak, several models have been created since, all following the same iconic principles. Now, more than two decades after the release of the Freak, Ulysse Nardin is celebrating this joyously unorthodox timepiece with the release of the Freak ONE.

The brand’s long-standing Chief Product Officer explains the role the original Freak played in watchmaking history by stating ‘You cannot overstate the impact of the Freak on Swiss watchmaking,’ says Jean-Christophe Sabatier, Ulysse Nardin’s Chief Product Officer. ‘The application of silicon in the escapement was a revolution. And its design was so disruptive: no dial, no hands, no crown. It was the industry’s first hyperwatch. To aficionados, in watchmaking there is only before the Freak – and after.’

The Freak ONE is the latest timepiece that’s inspired by the Freak’s three signature characteristics. It takes design cues from previous models. For instance, the movement is regulated by a silicon hairspring that was introduced back in 2008, an escapement treated with DIAMonSIL, a trailblazing synthetic diamond, and silicon plasma surfacing treatment which was first applied to the Freak back in 2007. Ulysse Nardin is making the Freak ONE the brand’s flagship watch, and the company’s center of gravity as it creates its new independence.

The ingenious way of operation of the Freak One is carried out the same as its predecessors, albeit now a different aesthetic can be seen. Firstly (1) the bezel and locker is used as the Freak’s unconventional time setter. The locker at 6 o’clock position is lifted, which then releases the setting system (similar to pulling out the crown on a traditional timepiece). By turning the bezel, it rotates the entire movement which also doubles as the timepiece’s hands. By pushing the locker back down again, it fixes the bezel and time in place.

The barrel cover (2) sits underneath the movement and acts as the rotating hour disc. The hour indication is carried out through the v-shaped pointer (filled with Super-LumiNova) and will make a full rotation once every 12 hours. The minute bridge (3), quite possibly the coolest feature on this timepiece, hovers under the sapphire crystal and carries the entire gear train, an oversized silicon oscillator, and the 60-minute flying carrousel tourbillon.

Through the open case back, we can see the Freak ONE’s automatic movement which gives out a power reserve of 72 hours. The patented Grinder® system has been created by Ulssye Nardin and is designed to capture energy from even the tiniest of wrist movements. The rotor is connected to the frame using four blades, which gives the system twice as much angular stroke compared to the standard automatic winding mechanical movement.

Lastly, to round off this freak creation is the integrated rubber strap. Continuing Ulysse Nardin’s drive for a more sustainable future, the rubber strap is made from 30 percent recycled production waste by Ulysse Nardin’s Swiss partner BIWI. The ideal successor to continue the Freak line, the Freak ONE comes packed with technology all the while remaining durable, easy to use, and be worn as a daily.

Reference: 2405-500-2A/3D

Specification:

• Case: 44mm
• Case Material: 44mm black DLC-coated titanium case with a satin finish, rose gold 5N bezel, black titanium case back
• Dial: Flying carrousel movement rotating around its own axis, silicon oversized oscillator, and balance spring
• Crystal:  Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 3 Bar (30m)
• Movement: Automatic Caliber UN-240 Manufacture
• Power reserve: 72 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Black rubber ‘ballistic’ textured strap (2405-500-2A/3D), Black matt alligator leather strap (2405-500-2A/3C), Two-tone rubber strap (2405-500-2A/3A).

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $106, 900

Availability: Limited production (less than 200 pieces in 2023)

Ulysse Nardin is pledging to donate 1% of annual sales of all “shark watches” to support the non-profit organisations that focus on shark conservation activities. The brand also partners with SHARKTRUST, the leading European shark conservation charity. SHARKTRUST works to reform unsustainable and unmanaged fisheries and the suppliers that fuel the global consumption of shark products. 

Lastly, the brand is adding Mike Coots to the Ulysse Nardin family. Mike Coots is a Hawaii native who unfortunately lost his right leg in a tiger shark attack at 18. Even with Mike’s misfortune, he understood the need to preserve these amazing creatures. Mike now acts as an advocate for saving sharks by helping to maintain the ecosystem.

This new Ulysse Nardin Great White limited edition timepiece is a great tribute to one of the ocean’s top predators. This 44mm diver chronograph watch is done mostly in white as a reference to the shark, and it follows a long tradition of shark-named diver watches, including the women’s Great White Diver launched in 2019. 

The timepiece is made from a 44mm sandblasted and satin-finished titanium case, with a white, unidirectional, rotating rubberised bezel. The dial is grey sandblasted with a tri-counter layout (30 minutes at 3 o’clock, 12 hours at 6 o’clock, and constant seconds at 9 o’clock). 

WatchAdvice’s Thoughts:

This Great White Diver Chronograph by Ulysse Nardin showcases the brand’s commitment to shark conservation. With 1% of all sales of this timepiece going towards helping non-profit organisations with shark conservation, it goes a long way in creating a better environment for these creatures. 

The watch is also a beautiful reference to the Great White, with the grey dial and white colour tones of the watch matching the shark’s appearance. There are also references to the shark itself on the watch, such as on the dial with the inscription “GREAT WHITE” under the Ulysse Nardin logo and the white rubber strap showing an image of the Great White shark in Superluminova. 

The movement and case of the watch are made to be used underwater, right alongside the very thing it’s made to represent (well, maybe not right alongside it!). The watch is waterproofed to 300m, making it a decent divers watch. 

The movement used by Ulysse Nardin is the brand’s own CAlibre UN-150 Manufacture, which, while operating at a frequency of 4hz (28, 800VpH), gives out a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. 

Reference: 1503-170LE-1A-GW

Australian Recommended Retail Price: 18,650 AUD (Tang Buckle) 19,050 AUD ( Deployant buckle)

Availability: Available now, Limited to 300 Pieces worldwide.

Now, the Diver X Skeleton is being released in a limited run of 175 models, in black Carbonium with hints of flashy yellow to liven things up. The new face of the Diver collection, the Diver X Skeleton combines the design of the Diver models while incorporating the technical prowess of the Blast collections. 

Ulysse Nardin’s intention to have the X design on the dial was as the brand states “one of the most technical and complex developments ever undertaken at Ulysse Nardin.” The hour index was designed in a way to make them appear to be floating on the dial, with the connection to the dial being secretly hidden away. Then to achieve the 3D effect of depth, overlaid layers were used to showcase the tiered construction of the “X”. 

The case comes sandblasted on the sides with satin-finished lugs and has been coated in black DLC to give it a sleek black look, that contrasts perfectly against the bright colours on display. Colours such as the yellow on the minute track, bezel markings, and the internal lines of Ulysse Nardin’s signature X on the dial. 

Watchadvice’s thoughts:

The Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black is a refreshing update to the already popular Diver X Skeleton models. This update uses Carbonium, a material that has been used by Ulysse Nardin previously on the Freak X timepiece. Carbonium is an extremely lightweight aerospace material that is thought of as being one of the most robust and durable materials ever created by scientists. The Carbonium material has been used on the bezel and the barrel cover at the 12 o’clock position on the dial.

The movement used for this model was originally created for the Blast Skeleton timepiece, which the engineers at Ulysse Nardin completely redesigned to suit the skeletonised open dial of the Diver X Skeleton. 

The yellow colour addition for this model stands out beautifully, especially against the black DLC of the case and Carbonium of the bezel. Ulysse Nardin is offering this timepiece in two strap options, one to have a more subtle appearance with the black R-Strap (made of upcycled fish nets) with scratch closing or a more vibrant stand-out look with the yellow rubber strap with the Ulysse Nardin black ceramic element at 6 o’clock. 

Reference: 3723-17OLE-2A-BLACK/3B

Australian Recommended Retail Price: 36,300.00 AUD

Availability: Limited to 175 pieces worldwide