Regardless of the price bracket, purple dial timepieces are certainly not easy to come by. Many brands either opt to stay away from colour or only reserve it for special limited edition runs. Either way you look at it, it seems like a real shame that brands aren’t bringing more of this stunning colour into their collections.

Who knows, maybe purple dials may come back as a trend in the near future, much like the Tiffany blue or “iced blue” dial trends, albeit these two already fall into the category of the more popular coloured dials. Maybe what we need is a high-profile watchmaker to release a purple dial timepiece in a non-limited run to set things off. Until then, however, we present to you seven high-end purple dial timepieces that are available on the market. Keep in mind, some of these models may be limited editions, so if your heart desires one it may be best to look into the second-hand market.

Zenith – DEFY 21 Ultraviolet

Ref. (97.9001.9004/80.R922)

Featuring Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero 21 1/100th of a second chronograph movement, this 44mm matte titanium watch features a beautiful violet skeleton dial. Even though it’s the main plate of the movement that’s purple, it can be still easily be seen by the viewer. To match the dial is a violet and black rubber strap.

This is easily one of our favourite purple dial timepieces. With the skeleton dial, and matte titanium case, it all blends together nicely. And more importantly, looks spectacular on the wrist with that 1/100th of a-second chronograph function!

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $21,100.00

Rolex – Datejust 36mm

Ref. (126234)

This white gold and oystersteel Datejust 36mm comes with an aubergine diamond set dial. The dial features Roman numerals for the hour indices, with the Roman VI and IX set with 24 diamonds. The aubergine dial has a sunray finish, done through brushing techniques that creates grooves that move outwards from the centre of the dial.

The aubergine dial will play with light beautifully thanks to this sunray finish. With the rest of the timepiece finished in either white gold or oystersteel, it allows the aubergine dial to really stand out. The Datejust is finished with its iconic fluted bezel and jubilee bracelet.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $16,950.00

Hublot – Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Purple Sapphire

Ref. (645.JM.0120.RT)

This list wouldn’t be complete without a sapphire timepiece from Hublot. The Tourbillon Purple Sapphire Big Bang is one up there for being one of Hublot’s most daring timepieces, and it’s available in purple!

The timepiece’s polished purple sapphire crystal stands out as one of the best-looking purple timepieces in this list, complimented nicely by its transparent purple structured lined rubber strap. The Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Purple Sapphire is limited to a run of 50 models.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $309,000.00

Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding Chronograph

Ref. (26331BC.GG.1224BC.01)

A purple dial timepiece in Audemars Piguet’s lineup is no common sight, however, the model they currently have is a stunner to say the least. Featuring a plum purple sunray finish dial with Audemars Piguet’s iconic “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, the purple stands out beautifully especially with the white gold hour indices and counters.

If this wasn’t enough, the whole timepiece (case & bracelet) is done in 18k white gold with a “hammered” finish, to give the watch a frosted look. Overall just an amazing-looking timepiece. The model is limited to a run of 200 watches.

Did your heart beat faster too just looking at it?

Australian Recommended Retail Price: By Appointment Only

H. Moser & Cie – Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept

Ref. (1343-0212)

If you’re after a purple dial timepiece, just to showcase the purple dial and nothing else, who does it better than H. Moser & Cie? The brand’s Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept is one of their purest collections, showcasing nothing but just the beauty of the dial and the hour, minute and second hands.

And what a beautiful dial it is. This limited edition (20 models) features a Purple Haze fumé dial that one can get lost in quite easily. Pictures don’t do this dial justice. The watch comes in a 40.8mm solid 18-carat white gold case with the brand’s hand-wound HMC 343 calibre movement, that gives out a staggering power reserve of 7 days!

International Recommended Retail Price: CHF 24,000

MB&F – LM101

Ref. (LM101 WG Purple)

In 2021, MB&F released three new editions for their iconic LM101 timepiece. One of these models was the striking purple dial matched with 18k white gold case. The watch itself is a feat of watchmaking engineering, but accompanied by this purple dial it becomes something else entirely.

While, yes, the blue dial LM101 is one beautiful watch, especially that hue of blue, but the purple is just as if not more mesmerising. Like the H.Moser&Cie’s fume dial, you can catch yourself (and quite possibly everyone around you) staring at the beauty that lays on the surface of this watch. The definition of mechanical “Art for your Wrist”.

International Recommended Retail Price: 73‘000 CHF

Czapek – Faubourg De Cracovie Purple Panda

Even though this timepiece is sold out (can be pre-ordered for the next possible run), we thought it should still get a mention due thanks to its artistic purple dial. The Czapek Faubourg De Cracovie comes with a handcrafted Guilloché “Résonance” bombé dial in purple and white, which gives the dial a beautiful artistic look.

The Guilloché “Résonance” bombé pattern also revolves around the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock sub-dials, instead of it being a uniform pattern on the dial. The timepiece is offered in a 41.5mm stainless steel case with the brand’s caliber SXH3 movement sitting inside.

International Recommended Retail Price: 32‘000 CHF

When we think of summer, one of the first things that come to mind is vivid blue skies or crystal clear waters. The cool blue tones are an instant reminder of warmer climates and sandy beaches, exactly the picture portrayed by these new timepieces. These watches will also be a first for a Zenith Boutique Edition. This new ice blue colour was presented in both the original DEFY Skyline in a 41mm steel case and the smaller mid-size 36mm steel case with or without diamonds on the bezel.

The steel cases for all three variants of this new DEFY Skyline Boutique Edition come with sharp angular lines, with a dodecagonal bezel to match, all inspired by the DEFY timepieces from 1969. These DEFY Skyline models come with what Zenith describes as a “chilled metallic Ice Blue tone with an engraved pattern consisting of four-pointed stars, glistening against the sunray-patterned metallic dial base.” The sub-dial at 9 o’clock has the same metallic blue finish (without pattern).

I personally am a big fan of this dial colour, however, the metallic finish is one that would need to be seen in person to truly appreciate it. The dials on all three variants also come with a sun-ray finish, both on the main dial and the 9 o’clock subdial. The ruthenium-plated hour indices do stand out against this metallic blue finish, thanks to the SuperLumi-Nova SLN C1 coating on the markers. On the 41mm timepiece, the hour indices are thin and elongated, whereas, on the 36mm model, the indices are shorter, making them stand out a bit more on this model.

All three variants come with a steel bracelet with satin-brushed surface that has chamfered and polished edges that seamlessly transitions onto the angular shape of the stainless steel case. Zenith is also offering an ice-blue rubber strap with a starry sky pattern (to match the dial) as a second choice. The steel strap can be easily swapped out with the rubber strap thanks to a quick strap-change mechanism on the DEFY case.

If the ice-blue rubber strap isn’t really your style, Zenith’s new strap service in their online boutique may just come in handy. With the launch of this new DEFY Skyline Boutique Edition, the brand also has updated its online boutique so that you can conveniently browse through and purchase compatible straps for your timepiece. A range of colours, sizes of straps and additional buckles are all available for personal customisation, giving the Zenith timepiece your own personal flavour.

DEFY Skyline 41mm
Ref. 03.9300.3620/15.I001

This 41mm version comes in a stainless steel case and bezel. The dial features a date window at 3 o’clock and a 1/10th of a second subdial at 9 o’clock.

The movement powering these functions is the El Primero 3620 automatic, operating at a high frequency of 5Hz (36,000 VpH). The movement, which can be seen from the open case back, features not only beautifully finished details but also Zenith’s iconic star as the rotor.

DEFY Skyline 36mm
Reference: 03.9400.670/15.I001

The 36mm variant suits both females and males and even though the dial is small, it still carries a lot of wrist presence. As mentioned previously, the hour indices stand (and hands) stand out more compared to the 41mm.

This is because the rhodium used is thinner, making the white Superlumi-Nova SLN C1 stand out more against the ice blue-toned sunray dial.

DEFY Skyline 36mm
Reference: 16.9400.670/15.I001

Featuring the same design and characteristics as the above DEFY Skyline 36mm, this model varies with the added 52 VVS brilliant-cut diamonds which total ~ 1.00 carats.

Both versions of the 36mm come with Zenith’s in-house Elite 670 calibre movement, which operates at a high frequency of 4Hz (28,800 VpH). Like the 41mm version, the 36mm also comes with an open case in which the movement and star-shaped oscillating weight can be seen.

Reference: 03.9300.3620/15.I001

Specification

• Case: 41mm
• Case Material: Stainless Steel
• Dial: Ice blue-toned sunray-patterned
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating.
• Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
• Movement: El Primero 3620 automatic
• Power reserve: Approx. 60 hours
• Strap: Stainless steel bracelet. 2nd bracelet is ice blue rubber with a starry sky pattern. Stainless steel folding clasp.

Availability: June 2023, Exclusively through Zenith E-commerce or boutiques. Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: AU$ 13,400.00

Reference: 03.9400.670/15.I001, 16.9400.670/15.I001

Specification

• Case: 36mm
• Case Material: Stainless Steel (03.9400.670/15.I001), Stainless steel with 52 VVS brilliant cut-diamonds on bezel (16.9400.670/15.I001)
• Dial: Ice blue-toned sunray-patterned
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating.
• Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
• Movement: Elite 670
• Power reserve: Approx. 50 hours
• Strap: Stainless steel bracelet. 2nd bracelet is ice blue rubber with a starry sky pattern. Stainless steel folding clasp.

Availability: June 2023, Ref (03.9400.670/15.I001) Exclusively through Zenith E-commerce or boutiques. Ref (16.9400.670/15.I001) boutique only.

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: AU$ 12,800.00 Ref (03.9400.670/15.I001), Price TBA Ref (16.9400.670/15.I001)

Now, the Swiss giant is adding a new model, with contrasting tones of grey and gold for an exclusive boutique edition timepiece. The creation of the DEFY Skeleton certainly brings forward a new design language when it comes to watchmaking. This latest timepiece stays true to Zenith traditions and upholds the legacy created by the DEFY watches that began in 1969, of making sturdy, reliable, and futuristic timepieces.

Zenith states that the inspiration for the DEFY Skeleton came from “modern cityscapes where structures and light are bound in a constantly moving interplay, the DEFY Skyline Skeleton seamlessly integrates the open dial with an open-worked version of the El Primero high-frequency automatic. A work of perfect symmetry seldom found in skeleton watches, the open dial takes on the form of a four-pointed stars, recalling the ZENITH “double Z” logo of the 1960s.“

For this special boutique edition, Zenith has used a silver grey dial for the skeletonised framework which includes a darker grey chapter ring to separate the dial from the case finish. This chapter ring (or minute track) has applied gold-plated baton-shaped hour markers which have also been filled with SuperLumi-Nova for low-light legibility. The hour and minute hands get the same finish with gold-plated and SuperLumi-Nova to keep the balanced aesthetics.

At the 6 o’clock position is the 1/10th of a second indicator with a dark grey seconds track (colour matching the outer chapter ring). The hand on this subdial comes with the same gold-plated and SuperLumi-Nova finish. The dial aesthetics have a subtle appearance but yet still stand out thanks to the gold-plated details.

Compared to the previous models of the DEFY Skeleton, the dial on this Boutique Edition is a lot more blended together in appearance. The main plate, for example, has a similar colour tone to the movement underneath, unlike the previous models where the plate was either blue or black for a contrasting effect. This means that the movement doesn’t stand out nearly as much, however, this is down to one’s own personal taste. The readability of the dial however is greatly improved as the gold-toned hands stand out beautifully against the silver-grey dial.

The DEFY Skeleton Boutique Edition is presented in a 41mm stainless steel case with a sharp design and faceted bezel. The case design has been inspired by early DEFY timepieces and is now reimagined so that the twelve sides of the case line up as extensions of the hour markers from the dial. Zenith has given the DEFY Skeleton a water resistance of 100m, making this also quite a versatile timepiece.

Zenith’s El Primero calibre 3620 SK movement can be seen from both the dial side and also through the open case back. Zenith states that the movement is “Built with a similar architecture as the El Primero 3600 1/10th of a second chronograph, this automatic manufacture movement drives the 1/10th of a second hand directly from the escapement, which beats at 5Hz (36’000 VpH), thus making it a “natural” fraction-of-a-second indication.” The movement also comes with a stop-second mechanism to allow for precise time-setting. Operating at a high-frequency of 36, 000 VpH, the calibre 3620 SK movement gives out a power reserve of approximately 55 hours.

The DEFY Skeleton is more than just a skeleton timepiece. The first to bear a 1/10th of a second indicator, it shows Zenith’s expertise in creating high-frequency timepieces matched with daring aesthetics. This new silver-grey and gold-toned look for the DEFY Skeleton has a more subtle appearance compared to the collection’s previous models, however, does provide a more balanced look with the dial colour matching the case and bracelet. The DEFY Skyline Skeleton Boutique Edition will be available exclusively from Zenith physical and online boutiques.

Reference: 03.9300.3620/80.I001

Specification

• Case: 41mm
• Case Material: Stainless steel
• Dial: Openworked, Gold-plated indices and hands, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1
• Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal and case back
• Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
• Movement: El Primero 3620 SK, Automatic
• Power reserve: Approx. 55 hours
• Strap: Stainless steel bracelet. 2nd bracelet is Black Rubber with a starry sky pattern. Stainless steel folding clasp.

Availability: June 2023. Through Zenith online and physical boutiques.

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: $16,600

Well, maybe not dead, but its popularity has certainly waned over the last few years. Admittedly, I’ve never really been a dress watch type of guy. I’ve always preferred the sports watches over anything else. Maybe because my lifestyle in Queensland is more outdoors and casual, but even before I lived here, back in Sydney I gravitated towards the steel sports watches. I assume it’s mostly because back in the early 2000’s many successful people I knew wore Rolexes, Omega’s, Breitling’s and Panerai’s, and this coupled with movie characters and advertising of people I looked up to, wore the same. And who says ads don’t work?

Putting this aside, the last few years has seen a definite trend towards sports watches, and away from dress watches. COVID has definitely played a part in this – with many people working from home and not the office. Prior to this, if you worked in a corporate environment with a suit, a dress watch made complete sense. All of a sudden, you’re at home in T-shirts and shorts, or whatever was the most comfortable to sit for hours on end at your kitchen table, lounge, outdoor entertaining area, or really where ever. A dress watch here didn’t make sense anymore. Now we’re out of COVID, and life seems to be back to a relative normal, and people are back in the office (at least part of the week), we should be seeing dress watches more right? It appears it’s not so much the case.

Changing Trends

Awards shows are always a good gauge on fashion trends, and watches, like it or not, are part of modern day fashion. And there certainly is a trend to see guys in suits sporting steel sports, or precious metal sports watches, not the typical understated watch on a nice leather strap, 40mm and under. You now see AP, Rolex, Patek, and even most recently, Dwayne Johnson rocking a TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 for the Academy Awards as a poetic nod to the fake TAG he wore when he was broke in his “7 Bucks” days, a departure from his standard go to of AP or Panerai in precious metal. But again, this proves my point, these are not dress watches either, albeit they are slightly more dressy than an Aquaracer!

Speaking to a few people in the know, they tend to agree. Dress watch sales have been in decline. Sports watches are taking their place, and for some brands, models that are hybrid dress/sports with interchangeable straps are becoming more popular. And this makes sense. Why spend good money on a dress watch that you may only wear every now and then (assuming you’re not in a suit and tie all day) when you can purchase a watch that is versatile and with the change of a strap, you can change the look? I know I’m gravitating towards this more and more.

The other theory I had was that people are just more casual these days. People want to be comfortable and this is extending into all areas of their lives. This can be seen across all areas of the luxury market. Luxury street wear is now more popular than ever, and replacing more formal attire in this sector.

Casual Luxury

An article from the New York Times in August of 2021 (which you can read here) highlighted this perfectly. Wall Street, the bastion of wealth and also formality had dressed down! The Suits were no longer in suits. If this wasn’t a sign I don’t know what was. And this trend permeated across the globe. Australia was not immune and I would suggest, was adopted a lot quicker than in other countries.

Luxury had to follow. Now I don’t know where I heard the term, or maybe I just came up with it myself, but “Casual Luxury” is now in vogue. LV back packs, Hugo Boss sneakers, Gucci bomber jackets and of course, watches. And now, it seems that almost anything goes. An IWC Pilot 41 Chronograph with a suit? Sure! Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time on rubber for a nice dinner out? Yep! And Rolex, AP and Patek Philippe are go to pieces for any occasion, and that is part of the appeal of a luxury sports watch. Dress a Submariner, Royal Oak or Nautilus up or down. To be honest, I know I would.

The data would also suggest this is the case as well. Just take a look at the latest Morgan Stanley figures for the Swiss Watch industry in 2022. Brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre who are predominantly known for their dress watches have slid from their position at #10 in 2017 to #14 in 2022, Bulgari, who up until recent years focused on dress watches, have slid from #15 in 2017 to out of the Top 20 in 2022. And it’s no surprise that Chopard, who are known for their luxury jewellery and watches of a more dressy and formal nature have doubled down on their sports watch range, most notably with the hit that is the Alpine Eagle – a great sports watch that is easily dressed up or down.

The Dress Watch Dilemma

I have had the pleasure of trying on and testing numerous dress watches over the past year or so, and some I loved, some not so much. My favourite of late was the Glashuette Original PanoMaticLuna. A brilliant dress watch, finished superbly and a great, and more affordable alternative to the A Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Moonshpase. I’d buy this in a heartbeat. If I only had the occasion to wear it! And these days, I don’t go to too many formal occasions, and for any watch related event, I’m normally wearing something from the brand or if not, and not too formal (most event’s aren’t too formal), my Zenith on the steel bracelet fits the bill.

Continuing on this thought path, I would now tend to look for a watch that I can wear often, if not everyday. I went to a formal event this weekend actually, and was lent a good friend’s Rolex Daytona in Rose Gold on Oysterflex. This was perfect for the event, looked the part and you feel a million dollars wearing it. And this is his almost everyday watch. Why? because it dresses up just as well as it dresses down. And this is what I’m now considering for my next purchase. A piece that is versatile, and can be either dressed up, or down. Not a big watch, most probably 40mm and not too thick, and preferably with the ability to change the strap or bracelet easily. A watch that can go from the boardroom to the beach to black tie. Am I asking too much?

Final Thoughts

But this does bring me back to the original question. Is the dress watch dead? Maybe for now, with the time we’re living in and the trends that are around today it is. Or maybe it’s just hibernating, waiting to be woken up when times have changed. And this is what fashion does. It ebbs and flows, it’s cyclical. Trends comes and go, and they come back around again. So maybe in the not too distant future, we’ll all be dressing up again, heading to work in suits and ties, when going out or travelling, putting on our Sunday best. But for now, my Sunday best is a pair of shorts and a Polo shirt, and on my wrist is a sports watch. And I’m perfectly ok with this!

We always love to know what you think. Drop a comment in the comments section below and tell us if you agree or not? We’d love to hear your thoughts.

So instead, we present my favourite twelve picks that came out of this year’s Geneva show, from Rolex’s Daytona to Vacheron Constantin’s Retrograde update.

Ulysse Nardin Freak One

The latest update to one of the most daring timepieces created in the 21st century. This newest creation, the Freak One, comes packed with technology while still remaining durable, easy to use, and designed to be worn as a daily.

The timepiece has been given a black DLC-coated titanium case with a rose gold 5N bezel with a matching dial interior. The three signature characteristics that made the Freak an icon is retained on this timepiece: no hands, no dial, and no crown. Ulysse Nardin is aiming to make the Freak One its flagship timepiece. You can read more about this latest FREAK creation here!

TAG Heuer Carrera Date 36mm

While TAG Heuer updated quite a few of their collections, one that stood out beautifully was the new colourways for the new Carrera Date 36mm.

The vibrant pink dial is just made to stand out. The added snailed finish on the dial makes it a stunning timepiece. TAG Heuer made a bold choice to break away from the traditional colours of black, blue, or white. A choice that we think will pay off for the brand. To see more of this pink dial Carrera Date plus more, click here!

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

No list would be complete without seeing the latest update from Rolex. The Rolex Daytona is as emblematic as it gets in the world of watches. The entire range of Daytona’s got an update for this year’s Watches and Wonders.

While the update to a lot of the models in this collection seemed minor, especially aesthetically, what stood out was the 950 platinum edition. Rolex has, for the first time in a Daytona, given the timepiece an open case back. Only visible on the 950 platinum model, Rolex has given this new Daytona collection the new-generation calibre 4131 movement. Read more about this latest update to the Daytona here!

Hublot Square Bang Unico New Editions

2022 saw the release of a world-first, square-shaped Bang Unico from Hublot. This model has enjoyed a lot of success since its release, so why not bring it back with an impressive update?

This year Watches and Wonders saw Hublot unveil three new editions for their Square Bang Unico. Two models in white and black sapphire and an incredible Square Bang Unico in Sapphire. Hublot is one of the leaders of using sapphire materials in their timepiece, so it only makes sense to bring two impressive designs together. Read all about the new Square Bang Unico here!

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Retrograde

Vacheron Constantin, this year has been all about the retrograde update, with some existing collections getting this feature. One of these collections is the Overseas line.

What is already a stunning timepiece with that gorgeous blue dial, this all-new Overseas model gets the retrograde function. The retrograde display is a historical design for Vacheron Constantin, one that fits beautifully on this timepiece as is also accompanied by a moon phase indicator. Read more about this retrograde update for Vacheron’s Overseas model here!

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition

I’ve always been a fan of Montblanc’s Geosphere timepiece. The fact that you get the northern and southern hemispheres on the dial spinning in sync with the day/24hr time was always interesting to see.

Now, Montblanc has given the 1858 Geosphere a new update. Montblanc introduced a new capsule collection that pays tribute to the world’s 14 highest peaks. These mountains are all above 8000 feet and have barely any oxygen, which is the central theme in this new collection. Read more about this latest 1858 Geosphere creation from Montblanc here!

IWC Schaffhausen’s Ingenieur Automatic 40

IWC has given their Ingenieur collection a newly engineered update, which references design codes from Gerald Genta’s Ingenieur SL (ref. 1832) from the 1970s.

The new collection comes with four models, with three models being made from stainless steel and the fourth given the titanium treatment. It takes an old classic and gives it modern design features while also improving wearability and performance. All the right ingredients to make it hit in the world of watchmaking. Read more about IWC’s newest Ingenieur Automatic 40 collection here!

Cartier Skeleton Collection

While this isn’t a singular watch, the entire Cartier Skeleton collection makes it into this list. For this year’s skeleton models update, Cartier is upgrading four new collections, each with their own iconic shape and design.

The Santos-Dumont, Pasha de Cartier, Santos de Cartier, and a grand complications pocket watch are getting aesthetic and mechanical upgrades. With a flawless balance between the movement and dial, Cartier has mastered the art of making skeleton watches, more so evident through this latest collection of skeleton timepieces. Read more about this collection here!

Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton In Black Ceramic

Following on from 2022’s update for the DEFY Skyline models with the new generation of seminal El Primero high-frequency calibre movements, 2023 sees the watches get a new aesthetic upgrade.

Two models in the DEFY Skyline line get a black ceramic makeover, with one of the models being the Skeleton. Crafted entirely in black ceramic, including the bracelet, the DEFY Skyline Skeleton is one of the standout pieces in Zeniths 2023 releases. To read more about this timepiece, click here.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Bi-colour

This year, Oris has updated the Aquis collection with new colours and materials. With the combination of the coloured rubber straps, the Oris Aquis Date Calibre Bi-colour for is one of the stand-outs in the collection.

This fun summer timepiece is offered in two dial colour variations (deep blue and forest green) and has an 18-carat fold finish on the edges of the bezel and matching gold details on the dial. Oh, and did we mention that it features Oris’s incredible 5-day power reserve Calibre 400 movement? If this piques your interest, click here to read more!

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

This one for all the racing enthusiasts out there. The iconic and ageless design of the original 1963 Heuer Carrera has inspired this latest creation from the Swiss giant. With a fresh new dynamic styling, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph will be released with two dial variants: a black and blue dial.

The dial carries a lot of colour accents, with them being the gradient orange ring, a reference to racecar speedometers. Each variant of this new Carrera Chronograph has its own character; however, what’s clear is that both timepieces carry the Carrera icon into the next generation with ageless styling and high-quality movements. To find out more about this Carrera Chronograph update, click here.

Baume & Mercier Riviera 39mm Collection

Another collection of timepieces that stood out was Baume & Mercier’s 39mm Riviera line. Released as part of the celebrations of Riviera’s 50^th anniversary, this new collection is offered with different material and dial variations.

Available in either stainless steel with a smoked blue dial or smoked grey sapphire dial or titanium bezel with a smoked grey dial, this new Riviera collection features a beautiful wave transfer decoration on the dial. This latest update for the Riviera collection brings it forward to a new era while keeping all the essence of what makes this piece loved by watch aficionados. To read more about this collection, click here!

Now for the 2023 update, Zenith takes two important timepieces from the DEFY Skyline collection and gives them a ceramic makeover. The timepieces have been crafted entirely in black ceramic, including the bracelet. The DEFY Skyline Skeleton timepiece is one of the standouts in this latest update.

Why was ceramic chosen as the material of choice for the latest update on the DEFY Skyline Skeleton? Ceramic is known to be much harder when compared to traditional metals and alloys like stainless steel. The extreme hardness of Ceramic also makes it highly resistant to scratches and visible wear, making it an ideal material for watch cases and even bracelets. Another added feature is the colour change from traditional stainless steel. If you were to use an alloy and wanted it coloured black, it would need to be coated or go through another process to achieve the effect. Ceramic is naturally coloured black, which means that it will never wear off!

This all-new Black Ceramic Defy Skyline Skeleton keeps the elements of what makes this model great while updating its aesthetics. The ceramic has a gun-metal finish instead of a deep black, and with this, you can easily see the satin-brushed and polished surfaces. Besides the dial, the entire timepiece has been given ceramic material. From the 41mm case and crown to the sharp yet smooth bezel to the integrated bracelet, the entire timepiece is given this attractive material.

The open dial of the DEFY Skyline Skeleton comes with a blackened large central four-pointed star element. Through the skeletonised dial you can see the black bridges in each corner of the dial and also the grey-finished main plate. The contrast of the black bridges against the main plate and other components of the movement gives the dial depth and a three-dimensional effect. At the 6 o’clock position is the 1/10t^h of a second indicator sub-dial, which has also been skeletonised to allow more of the movement underneath to be seen.

Zenith has given this DEFY Skyline Skeleton faceted polished hands and applied indices, filled with Super-LumiNova. The polished finish gives these elements a great shine, while also playing with light beautifully under light at different angles. Having white Super-LumiNova against a black minute track also helps aid the readability of the dial, especially since it is a skeleton dial where readability gets lost for visual aesthetics.

The engine behind this timepiece is Zenith’s in-house El Primero 3620 automatic calibre movement. This high-frequency movement beats at an impressive rate (pretty standard for Zenith!) of 5Hz (36, 000 VpH). The 1/10^th of the second indicator is also powered directly by the escapement. The bi-directional rotor which can be seen from the open case back of the timepiece gives the watch an approximate power reserve of 60 hours.

For those that would prefer to have a more sporty look to the timepiece, Zenith also gives a second strap: a black rubber strap with a starry sky pattern with a black PVD stainless buckle with a folding clasp. With Zenith’s quick strap interchangeability system, you are able to change from ceramic to rubber in an instant, making the wearability of this timepiece very versatile. Using Ceramic on the all-new DEFY Skyline Skeleton is a great choice by Zenith, offering a different material other than Steel in the current DEFY line. The ceramic finish compliments the timepiece well, as it matches the colour tones of the movement allowing the skeletonised dial to stand out.

Reference: 49.9300.3620/21.I001

Specification

• Case: 41mm
• Case Material: Black Ceramic
• Dial: Black-toned sunray-patterned
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating.
• Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
• Movement: El Primero 3620, Automatic
• Power reserve: Approx. 60 hours
• Strap: Black Ceramic bracelet and folding clasp. Comes with a black rubber strap with starry sky pattern and with a black PVD stainless buckle with folding clasp.

Availability: TBA

International Recommended Retail Pricing: 16900 CHF

Now, released during Watches and Wonders 2023 is Zenith’s newest update to the Pilot collection of watches. Timepieces that are made for pilots but can also easily be worn by the everyday person. Zenith’s Pilot collection is the brand’s most longstanding line.

This new Pilot collection has been completely redesigned from the ground up. While previous Pilot collection timepieces may have looked to vintage designs for inspiration, this Pilot collection looks at the entire span of aviation, from both the present and the past. The collection brings forth modernity with its durability, latest movements, case materials, and easy-to-read dials while nodding to the design codes of some of the earliest aviator clocks and dashboard instruments created by Zenith almost a century ago.

The 2023 Pilot collection is split into two main timepiece designs, with each design having two different variants. The first design is the Pilot Automatic, a simple three-hander timepiece with a date feature. The second design is the Pilot Big Date Flyback.

Pilot Collection

Zenith’s new Pilot Automatic is the template for the latest collection and generation of Pilot watches. For this collection, it comes in two variants. A black micro-blasted ceramic 40mm case or stainless steel 40mm case. Both watches feature the same dial design. The case design has been entirely recreated by Zenith and now features a distinct flat-top round bezel which is fixed on top of the rounded case. The steel version comes with a vertically satin-brushed surface with polished chamfers. Both watches also come with an oversized crown, an iconic design on pilot timepieces. The oversized crown has now been given a modern retake, as it now has a more angular form, whilst still being very easy to operate.

At first glance, the Pilot Automatic dial is incredibly easy to read, with its stark contrast from the black dial to the white hour indices. This is exactly what you would expect from a Pilot’s watch. The black opaline dial has horizontal grooves, which were created to mimic the look of corrugated metal sheets, the same design that you would find on the fuselage of much older aircraft. Zenith has taken inspiration from dashboard instruments of early 1900s aircraft for the oversized Arabic hour numerals. Zenith has used a more modern font and filled it with Super LumiNova for easy nighttime readability.

Above the date window at 6 o’clock is a horizontal flat white line, which recalls the design of the artificial horizon instrument on a plane. On the timepiece, it shows the instant orientation of the dial, so that the wearer can instantly read the time without second guessing.

The movement in both variants of the Pilot Automatic is the El Primero 3620 automatic movement. Operating at a frequency of 36, 000 VpH (5Hz), it gives out a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. The open case back shows the archetypal and essential “artificial horizon” blackened oscillating weight.

Zenith offers different straps for each of the two variants of the Pilot Automatic. The black ceramic version comes with a stealthy black cordura-effect rubber strap and a utilitarian khaki cordura-effect rubber strap. The stainless steel model is offered with the same black cordura-effect rubber strap, with the second strap being made with brown calfskin leather.

Pilot Big Date Flyback

To complete Zenith’s new Pilot collection is a chronograph reference. The Pilot Big Date Flyback has a new version of Zenith’s El Primero 3600 caliber, with the movement now bringing new functions to cater to the pilot. Like the Pilot Automatic, the Pilot Big Date Flyback comes in two variants. Both in 42.5mm case size, the first is a stainless steel version that takes design cues from one of the most iconic Zenith Flyback chronographs; Rainbow Flyback. The minute’s totaliser at 3 o’clock is created in alternating colours so that the wearer can easily establish between the five-minute marks.

The central chronograph’s second hand and the chronograph’s minute hand are done in orange, which makes it have a stark yet beautiful contrasting effect against the black dial. The second variant for the Pilot Big Date Flyback takes on a monochrome look. The timepiece has a black micro-blasted ceramic case, and unlike the stainless steel version, the chronograph hands are all done in white. Both black opaline dials have a horizontal groove design, exactly like the Pilot Automatic model.

For the movement, Zenith has given their El Primero 3652 automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre two functions that are a great fit for a pilot watch; the big date and the flyback function. In regards to these functions, Zenith states that the “oversized date display that’s shown at 6 o’clock is a next-gen patented compliant mechanism that advances and stabilizes both of the big date’s wheels in less than 0.03 seconds. Originally conceived for aviators who wore thick sheepskin gloves, the flyback function allows the chronograph function to be reset to zero and restarted with a single push of a button, simplifying the pilot’s operations and offering the possibility to record consecutive times without stopping”. Operating at a frequency of 36,000 VpH (5Hz), the El Primero 3652 automatic movement gives out a power reserve of approximately 60 hours.

Like the Pilot Automatic variants, the Pilot Big Date Flyback comes with the same strap variations. Black cordura effect and khaki cordura effect strap for the black micro blasted flyback model, while the stainless steel flyback model gets black cordura effect and brown calfskin leather straps.

This all-new Pilot Collection by Zenith captures the aviation spirit and delivers it with two timepieces suited for watch aficionados and aviation enthusiasts alike.

Reference: 49.4000.3620/21.I001, 03.4000.3620/21.I001

Specification:

• Case: 40mm
• Case Material: Black micro-blasted ceramic or Stainless steel case
• Dial: Black with horizontal grooves
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 10 Bar (100m)
• Movement: El Primero 3620, automatic
• Power reserve: Approx. 60 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Black cordura effect rubber strap, khaki cordura effect strap, or brown calfskin leather strap.

International Recommended Retail Price: 9500 CHF for Black micro-blaster ceramic, 7500 CHF for stainless steel.

Availability: TBA

Reference: 49.4000.3652/21.I001, 03.4000.3652/21.I001

Specification:

• Case: 42.5mm
• Case Material: Black micro-blasted ceramic or Stainless steel case
• Dial:  Black with horizontal grooves
• Crystal:  Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 10 Bar (100m)
• Movement: El Primero 3652, automatic
• Power reserve: Approx 60 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Black cordura effect rubber strap, khaki cordura effect strap, or brown calfskin leather strap.

International Recommended Retail Price:  13,400 CHF for Black micro-blaster ceramic, 11,400 CHF for stainless steel.

Availability: TBA

Watches are one of those things that can be just a nice accessory that tells the time, or can be an all consuming passion for life (Have a guess which end of the spectrum I’m on…) If you fall somewhere near the latter, or lets face it, if it’s more than just a passing hobby, then I would say, most people will have a grail watch, the one that they are lusting after. And for whatever reason you’re not able to get it – be it way out of our price range, or a rare or hard to get watch, or simply, you just can’t justify spending the time or money, it sits there in the back of your mind calling your name.

Being an active member of many watch forums here in Australia and overseas, it is interesting what people classify as a grail, which speaks to the range of collectors out there in this horological hobby. For some, it’s the OMEGA Seamaster Professional Diver, for others, maybe a Zenith of sorts (I’ve had a few people comment on my Defy Skyline as their grail) and for others, the unobtanium models at retail, like the Rolex Pepsi Meteorite Dial (one of my close watch aficionado friends’ grail piece), or an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which lets face it, unless you’ve got money to burn on the secondary market, or know someone with an ‘in’ at AP, then you’ll be waiting a while!

Some grails that have been floated around some of the online forums

But what makes a “grail’ watch? The answer to this is like asking, “how long is a piece of string?”, but lets have a go anyway. From my perspective, it’s all about where you are in your collecting journey, what exposure to certain brands you have, education about watches and thrown into the mix, most probably your means to afford different watches at different price points. When I think back over the years, I’ve had many Grail Watches I’ve wanted, and being into watches since I was young, those pieces have differed quite a lot.

When I was 15, the watch I loved most was the OMEGA Seamaster that Pierce Brosnan wore in GoldenEye, and for those that are interested in my previous article to find out more about OMEGA’s association with Bond, you can read all about it here. This stayed my grail watch until I actually was able to buy it, or the more modern version of it in about 2007 – only a mere 12 years later and it was the coolest, and most expensive watch I had owned to that point.

Moving through the years after that purchase, my collecting journey, like many others, has evolved as my income has risen slowly over the years, so the price points that we now talk about are much more. I’m also more educated in watches, so my appreciation for certain brands, movements, manufacturing quality and finishing is also a lot higher than what it was 20 years ago. I’ve moved through my journey, like many friends in this game have, and been exposed to a lot of great watches and brands, and also doing this job, many more for trial periods to test and photograph. During this time, post the OMEGA, I’ve had several grails, that I’ve been lucky enough to obtain.

In 2012, it was my Breitling Super Avenger Chronograph (a giant 48mm beast that never failed me in 8 years!) but eventually was way to big for my tastes so was moved on. In 2014 I was fortunate enough to obtain what I considered my ultimate Grail for many years, the Panerai Luminor PAM312 (older sibling of the current PAM1312) which, if you’re interested in how this came about, check it out here. I still have the Panerai today, almost 10 years later, and will always stay in the collection. I had lusted after a Rolex for any years, like many others have, and the Sea-Dweller became my next Grail watch, which I finally secured last year after a 3 year wait on the expression of interest list. If you missed my “Owners Perspective” on this, then I’d encourage you to have a read if you’re thinking about getting one.

Below, the grail journey up to now…

This brings us to today, and what’s my next grail piece? This is a tough question, as there are so many great pieces out there just waiting to be tried and worn. Do I yearn for a Rolex Daytona? Or, could I possibly get my hands on that AP Royal Oak Chronograph with blue Grande Tapisserie dial? This actually is my next Grail, however it’s slightly out of reach currently, so will most probably stay in dreamland for a while.

And this is a dilemma that faces many collectors out there. Once you’ve obtained your “Grail Watch” or maybe like in my case, a few, what do you do next? You hear watch collectors using the term “Exit Piece”, the one watch that will complete their collection, and thus their collecting journey for good. This is a great romantic notion, but I’m yet to meet a collector that has said this, and actually meant it, or done it. I’m sure there are a few out there, so please let me know if you’re one that’s successfully exited the hobby, going out on high with your Holy Grail!

This however, is all part of the fun of collecting watches, or anything for that matter. There will always be that one piece, that one item that is coveted by collectors that is just out of reach, and a goal to work towards. And once obtained, most likely another goal just around the corner to strive for. For those precious few out there that have managed to achieve their Grail Watch and exit, then I take my hat off to you, as you are quite likely much more enlightened than I am, and have found peace within.

Stay tuned as over the next couple of weeks, I’ll cover off some not so obvious grail watches that you should definitely consider, and give you pause for thought in the Search Of The Holy (Watch) Grail Part 2.

Summer! The time to wind down, relax, and do the things that I love the most – heading to the beach, sitting at some nice cafe’s, and heading on holidays with the family. Oh, and taking copious amounts of watch pics along the way. I’ve selected some of my favourite pics from the summer that has just gone, ok, maybe a few from the start of the year as well, but hey, it’s all a bit of fun. Hope you enjoy!

Fun At The Beach

Blue watches always work well in and around water, and the Zenith Defy Skyline and Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Chronograph always take amazing shots when at the beach.

Lazing About

Summer is great for doing not not a lot at all, and I’ve been known to spend a few hours of a summer afternoon just lying in the hammock, reading a book and taking an obligatory watch shot! The Tudor Black Bay GMT is handy for knowing what tie zone it is when time doesn’t matter 😉

Surfs Up!

It’s no good going to the beach, or a tropical island for that fact and not jumping in the water. And with sports watches, and more so dive watches, that’s what they’re designed for, so jump in!

Coffees and Cafes

What better way to start a summer day than at the cafe, watching the world go by? Plus if you’re like me and can’t get going until you’ve had your morning caffeine hit, you understand!

Rockpool Fun

If you have young kids you’ll know that they love rock pools when they’re at the beach. Plus for a “Watch Dad”, these make great backdrops for photos. The Rolex Sea-Dweller in its element here.

Waterfalls

Waterfalls you ask? Why not?! Well, in my case, the first two is a waterfall by the pool at a resort in North Queensland, the third, torrential rain in Fiji. That counts right? Either way, it makes for great photos. Next time I’m out exploring real waterfalls, I’ll be sure to get pics…

So, there you have some of my favourite summer pics, and as we say goodbye to summer, and hello Autumn, I’m looking back at these and the memories they’ve helped me create, and also, remind me of what I was doing at the time with the family, as I’m quite often snapping these in the brief moments between having fun or spending some quality “me” time. I hoped you enjoyed them, and I look forward to what the cooler months bring!

The original A3690 was released back in 1970, just after the introduction of the DEFY wristwatch collection. The A3690 was designed with the iconic rugged “bank vault” case and was one of the earliest timepieces in Zenith’s collection to have striking dial colours. In fact, it was almost unheard of the time for brands to use bold colours on watch dials, making Zenith one of the first few brands to do so, along with a marked gradient effect. The use of the colours such as tropical teal blue on the DEFY A3690 and deep crimson red for the A3691 showed Zenith’s progressive approach to watchmaking, in keeping with the evolving tastes of time.  

Zenith chose this particular DEFY Revival model to be a boutique-only timepiece as many of the exclusive Boutique editions from the brand’s main collections have featured highlights of blue, which include the dial and movement.  

This latest DEFY Revival A3690 has been reproduced in incredibly accurate details thanks to historical production plans. Like the rest of the models in the DEFY Revival collection, Zenith wants to keep the essence of what made the historical timepiece so great while injecting a modern dose of technicality with materials and the latest movements.  

The DEFY Revival A3690 comes in a 37mm stainless steel faceted octagonal case offering 300m water resistance. To match the octagonal case is a fourteen-sided bezel, all faithfully reproduced to be accurate to the original 1970s model. The model is offered in the now-iconic Gay Frères steel ladder bracelet. 

The stunning tear blue dial with its prominent vignette effect which makes the dial darken towards the edges, also comes with the applied square hour markers that feature four horizontal grooves. The date window is placed in a subtle position between the four and five-hour markers.  

Only a few cosmetic differences between the Revival and the original 1970s model can be seen, which include the sapphire crystal, the display case back and the luminescent pigments. The original model came with a solid case back that featured the four-pointed star that became the iconic logo for Zenith.  

Zenith’s main touch of modernity for this watch comes in the form of the Elite 670 manufacture movement. The movement operates at 4Hz (28, 800 VpH) while providing a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. With the DEFY Revival A3690 featuring a sapphire case back, this automatic movement can be admired from all angles.  

With the hopes of many more to come, Zenith’s faithful reproduction of the A3690 shows the brand’s desire to keep iconic models alive and a chance for everyday collectors to get their hands on a historical timepiece with a modern touch. The DEFY Revival A3690 is now available at physical Zenith boutiques and online boutiques around the world.  

Reference: 03.A3642.670/3690.M3642

Specification:

• Case: 37mm
• Case Material: Stainless Steel
• Dial: Turquoise gradient dial
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 300m
• Movement: ELITE 670 automatic
• Power reserve: Approx. 50 Hours
• Bracelet: Stainless steel “Ladder” bracelet

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $10,500 inc GST

Availability: Available now. Boutique and E-commerce only.